Re: [VAC] Removing belly pan

["Robert / Susan Harper" <rharper@xxxxxxxxxx>]

I removed all screws and rivets holding the pan to the frame, then used
ordinary metal snips to cut the belly. It cuts easily with good snips, but
wear gloves. Since I knew I was trashing most of it, in a few places I made
fast and wild cuts just to get the metal into a more handleable
size/orientation. I also found it very helpful to have 6x6 blocks under the
wheels (about 2' long, with built-in beveled wooden chocks on top), the
tongue jack cranked up high,  and I used a creeper. I think I may have used
aviation type snips in a few places where I was cutting surves.
Anyone taking the belly pan off for the first time, beware. It is probably
filthy in there. Have on goggles, a dust mask, and if you can stand it, a
long sleeved shirt buttoned up tight. Along with various bug and rodent
debris, there may be a bunch of loose fiberglass. I pulled it all out and
will replace with new. A box fan blowing across you under the trailer is
nice, too.
You'll notice that they installed the bats of fiberglass between the frame
and the floor: probably a great time saver for the factory, but a major
reduction in R-value, since it is compressed to a thickness of about 1/8"
everywhere it crosses the frame. I will replace with new bats cut to fit
each "compartment". I want to keep it off of the belly pan, but have not yet
decided how to do so securely and without reducing the loft too much. Ideas
appreciated.
Reducing the belly pan to 8" wide around the perimeter also provides the
opportunity to get some dents out , and I made cuts across the 8" width in a
few places (stopping just short of the rub strip). If you look at the belly
pan where it disappears under the rub strip, you'll catch a glimpse of where
they've v-notched the upper edge of the belly pan to allow it to conform to
the non-flat shape under the trailer. I made my straight cuts in line with
these. It allowed me to pretty much straighten sections of the pan flat
(hanging vertically, under the trailer), clamp and hammer the dents out,
then by hand gently and gradually rebend the curve. I will rivet small
aluminum seam patches on the top side of these cuts with rubber caulk
between.

Bob Harper
'62 Globetrotter in SC