Re: [VAC] UN-Stuck lug nuts on Aluminum wheels.

[Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@toltbbs.com>]

Terry,
 I've seen MANY instances where a bolt feels "tight" and requires a lot
of torque to turn, yet really isn't doing much of anything.

Using a bolt that doesn't have threads close enough to the head so that
the nut bottoms on the un-threaded portion is one example.

Your problem might have been that the studs were rusty at the 'root'
where the nut stops. When things are Right, you should be able to spin
the nut down with your fingers, seat it into the bevel on the wheel, and
the wheel should not rattle around. If you had to use your cross-bar lug
wrench to seat that nut, chances are good that it's not seated properly.
This is especially bad if you're using an impact wrench, as you have no
'feel' at all. Now, IF you're experienced with that air wrench, you'll
have noted that it starts "hammering" long before the nut is actually
seated instead of spinning it down freely, THEN hammering. The typical
clown at the tire shop may or may not be that aware. The other thing
those guys will do is overtighten the nuts with their air wrench. I can
put them just about right where I want them (torque-wise) with my air
wrench, but most people will let the wrench hammer way too long. Of
course, all bets are off if the studs aren't clean and lightly
lubricated.

Using those decorative, closed-ended nuts like Jerry has can also cause
problems. What if they're slightly too short? The stud will bottom in
the end of the nut before the nut securely clamps the wheel. It bears
checking!

                                                Jim