Re: [VAC] Power Conveter

[RSmith6368@xxxxxxx]

Al,(Merry, you could use this too if you wanted to test your "dead circuits"),

   Starting to sound more and more like an open in the 12vdc circuit OR an 
outrageous amount of corrosion on same. Remember you are not checking 
a "ground" per se like you do in an AC circuit, in a DC circuit the negative 
lead is actually the source of the power (DC "flows" from negative to 
positive...like being drawn towards it, if you will.)

Try this:

With some type of continuity tester (the simple battery powered test 
light/probe will work or multimeter set to measure ohms {may be shown with just 
the greek "omega" symbol to indicate ohms} do the following EXACTLY as 
prescribed:

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY...BOTH TERMINALS

test the test light by touching the clip/probe to the "ice pick" looking part 
of the device. You want it to light up. If it doesn't you need a new bulb or a 
new battery or the single wire to the clip is bad. If it does light you are in 
business. (MAKE SURE YOUR TEST DEVICE IS BATTERY POWERED AND YOU HAVE 
DISCONECTED THE "HOUSE BATTERY" FROM THE CIRCUIT YOU ARE TO TEST){There are 
probes that are not battery powered that require the circuit you are testing 
be "HOT", you don't need one of those and they look exactly the same except for 
the one for testing a disconected circuit has a bulb and a battery in the 
handle} Again, if you are using a multi meter, set the switch to ohms.


Did I mention to disconnect the house battery?

1) Place a probe or clip on the negative cable where it had just moments ago 
connected to the battery

2) Place a lead into the 12vdc outlet nearest the battery...if you get a light 
or needle movement you are good to that point. If good, move to the next outlet 
in line (again, moving AWAY from the battery). Before you move, insure you are 
testing both sides of the outlet). 

3) From this point all you need to do is keep moving 'til you find a spot where 
the light does not light or the needle does not move. When this happens the 
opening in the circuit will be between the last "good" test and the dead point. 
Note! It will not always be a wire that is bad or broken...it may well be a 
light socket or cigar lighter socket or a connection to one of those. All 
solder joints should be suspect on a vehicle this old and are easy to fix. IN 
FACT, ALL WIRE JOINTS ARE SUSPECT AND SHOULD BE CHECKED FOR TIGHTNESS. 
VIBARATION IS YOUR ENEMY (as is time, and moisture,and the properties of 
metal...the gremlins)Talk to me before you start taking joints apart, there are 
so pretty cool things you can do in this age of technology to make joints 
(almost) "permanant".

Let me know what you find, kinda wish I could come help. In fact, I wish I 
could make a living just doing RV electricals...

Ralph