Re: [VAC] First AS

[Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tim,
 Make sure that the water heater pilot assembly is clean, it's pretty
common for a small particle of dirt to become lodged in an orifice and
cause trouble. I've had a LOT of problems with my frige due to this. If
it has a good flame while you're holding the safety bypass button during
the lighting procedure, but won't stay lit when you remove your finger,
the thermocouple could be bad. Those are a common item and available for
cheap at your local hardware store.

On your fridge: be thankful that the problem is with the electricity,
that's easier to fix (and less trouble if you can't) than the other way
'round. First, check that you've actually selected the electric cooling
by flipping the appropiate switch. There should be a distinctive
'Click', just like any other switch. Check to see if you have power at
the outlet where it receives 115VAC from the trailer; this should be
reachable from the outside access panel. If it passes both of those
tests, turn the 'electric' thermostat up and down and listen for the
'click'. When it's turned Down (towards Colder), power should be applied
to an electric element that's strapped to the boiler. Although it might
not be real easy to get at, you can check to see if the element does in
fact have power going to it by some means.

It sounds like you might have a piece of crap in the water line at the
faucet. Or, perhaps the faucet itself has failed in some manner.
Disassembly of the faucet is straightforward: remove the handle, then
unscrew the rest of the thing. It goes without saying that the system
must be DE-pressurized while disassembling the thing, but you then do
want to apply pressure to see if the water flows with the faucet apart.
Note that you're going to get a geyser, so don't go outside, turn on the
water, then amble back inside to see if it's working. <<grin>> If
there's nothing evident, but water still doesn't come out, I'd
depressurize the system, then blow backwards on the faucet with
high-pressure air. Have the water heater drained and open so whatever is
in the line can end up there.

Regarding your 'bad connection causing the trailer to be dragged for 20
feet', I did that once myself. Didn't actually drag the trailer, as the
breakaway switch did its thing, causing the crappy little hooks on the
safety chains to fail, causing the tounge to drop to the ground.
Fortunately, no one was looking, so my dignity was intact. :-) I've
since replaced the saftety chains with 5/16" stuff and forged hooks with
safety clasps. I now drop it on the ball, inspect it for full seating,
close the latch, then jack it back UP until I see the rear of the truck
start to rise a bit.

Don't tow in overdrive if your 'Burb is a 1500 model. Get the thing
weighed: Tow vehicle alone, Trailer alone, and Tounge Weight on the
trailer. Be sure that you have 10-15% of the trailer's weight on the
tounge, NEVER less than 10%. That's the quickest way to make it really
unstable on the road. I use a Sherline Tounge Scale
(http://www.sherline.com or see http://www.campingworld.com) to check
the tounge weight now and then. See http://www.can-am-rv.com for a real
good treatise on hitches and how to adjust them.

Congrats on your 'new' Airstream, and welcome to the family!!

                                  <<Jim>>


                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<jdunmyer@toltbbs.com>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:jdunmyer@toltbbs.com>>