Re: [SilverStreak] replacing steel piping with copper

["waymark1@xxxxxxxx" <waymark1@xxxxxxxx>]

Pressure of Liquefied Petroleum Gas (mostly propane) is usually listed in "inches water 
column." For LPG the usual is 11 inches. 
The appliance regulator on the range is supposed to be 10 inches. Generally they do not 
work, though.
However, many portable outdoor LP gas grills use a much higher pressure.

"The industry norm is 15 years before a regulator needs replacement" - 
www.propane101.com/regulators.htm

When replacing a regulator, never install a single stage regulator even if such was original 
equipment. They have been illegal since 1995 for fixed piping systems. The LPG piping system 
in an RV is a "fixed" system. Two-stage regulators are mandatory. Single stage regulators are 
legal only on portable appliances and outdoor cooking appliances of no more than 100,000 
Btu/hr. - ops.dot.gov/regs/small_lp/Chapter9.htm

Black (unplated) iron pipe is the norm for LPG just as for Natural Gas (methane). Copper tubing 
and brass connectors are used only for the risers from the underfloor iron pipe up to the 
appliance.
Codes now require corrugated copper connectors for NG to be coated with plastic film due to the 
possibility of cracking or pinholing. As Eddie mentioned, this does not occur with LPG.

Any time a LPG system is opened and reconnected, the joint(s) MUST be leak tested. The proper 
methods are (1) liquid leak detector solution and (2) electronic leak tester ("sniffer"). If a 
substitute solution is used ("soapy water") it is imperative that it contain NO ammonia, as 
ammonia will cause cracking of brass valves and fittings.

Every LPG system should have a leak detector just past the regulator.

One not uncommon leak point is the valves of the range top. The valve spools are sealed only with 
a pasty grease. If the range valve(s) is not operated occasionally, the grease may dry out and 
crack, allowing a leak.

Keep in mind that some persons' noses are not sensitive to the telltale chemical that is added to 
LPG.

I still see mentions of using copper tubing between the LPG container and the dwelling unit. A few 
months ago, an LPG supplier told me that they recommend removing copper lines and replacing them 
with special plastic lines. This is due to cracking from expansion and contraction, heating and 
cooling, of the tubing over the years. Black iron pipe remains the usual under and inside a dwelling 
space.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 

Jason,
A little embarrassed here. I should know the pressure on the LPG system 
lines. I am required to know. But I forget. I think is 5 ounces but could be less. Natural gas in 
your home is pressured at 5 ounces.

Realize the pressure of 5 ounces is less than an inflated party balloon. 
You'd just about have to have a fractured line or one really rusted thru to get a leak. Propane is 
basically dry and clean as far as damage to the inside of any piping. Exceptions are rescued coaches 
with lines exposed to years of weather. The steel lines cannot be galvanized as that will cause debris 
problems for LPG and LNG. So the inside of the steel pipe is bare and raw. The outside black paint 
never was more than "barely there".

So just dust off your lines with a stiff brush, nothing more. Liberally keep painted with shiny aluminum 
paint. The paint IS actual aluminum and will soak thru dirt, rust, and into threads. Aluminum soon 
oxidizes, stopping rust very well. Everything plant and oil field is painted with aluminum for a reason 
and it's not for the color. So paint the pipes. It will look good and you will feel better.

Think you have a leak? Just mix a 50/50 solution of soap and water. Apply that to any suspect joint or 
bad area and watch for bubbles. Do that after painting because the fresh painted pipes reveal all bad or 
suspect spots. I seriously doubt pipes not struck by whatever got under the trailer would need any 
replacement.
-Eddie-
Houston, TX