Thanks for your reply, I too run dual Optimas in my Sub, with a Wrangler170
amp alternator and solenoid isolator. It's my understanding that ifyou
connect to the alternator you are effectively connecting to your main
battery, as they are hardwired together and not separated by the isolator.
Convention dictates the charge wire should be hooked to the auxiliary
battery, Perhaps Mr. Dunmyer could jump in here and help with an isolating
relay. I'll try West Marine for those panels, thanks-Courtney

-----Original Message-----
From: TomH. [SMTP:howarth@airstream.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 1999 11:27 AM
To: vintage@airstream.net
Subject: Re: [VAC] electrical sources

Hi Courtney,

This past winter I added a DC breaker box and Link 10 E-meter where
both
products are available through West Marine
(http://www.westmarine.com/).The
DC breaker box is from Blue Sea Systems (Bellingham, WA) and is
available in
sizes from 3 breakers to hundreds of breakers (in "kit" form). The
one I
purchased has 8 breakers, 6 of which have 15 A and 2 with 20 A
breakers. I
have also purchased wire and cable from them in specified sizes
(there is a
West Marine store located locally although I have also used their
catalog in
the past). I am quite happy with the end result as I always found
it
bothersome to change fuses. I also appreciate the ability to
further
distinguish DC appliances with more control over separate lines. I
recommend
that you request a catalog as their new '99 catalog is quite
descriptive and a
good source for many RV common projects.

I run two batteries in my tow vehicle (a Ford conversion van) in
which I have
an isolator to charge both batteries. One of the batteries is the
starting
battery and the second battery is a deep cycle used for all the
conversion
electronics, etc. (both batteries are Optima AGM batteries). I have
yet to do
this but plan on getting to it later this spring and that is to run
a 4 gauge
line from the isolator to the Bargeman connector at the back of the
van. I
figure I need about 20 ft. As it stands now the positive is a 10 or
12 gauge
and is not adequate for the recharging task of the trailer
batteries. I have
selected the 4 gauge based on articles by RV technical writer Bill
Farlow and
feel that his recommendation sounds useful. What I don't know yet
is whether
to hook up to the van deep cycle battery terminal or directly to the
alternator terminal. My contemplation in this selection is that
hooking up to
the van deep cycle battery means that the trailer batteries will be
in
parallel with the van deep cycle and thus I will be mixing battery
types as
well as potentially causing a drain of the van battery when I leave
the
electrical tow line hooked up. OTOH, if I wire to the alternator
terminal I
will only receive power to the trailer batteries when the tow
vehicle is
moving which is acceptable and preferred. However, I am concerned
that the
large trailer house batteries will dominate the power output of the
alternator
and thus potentially limit the available power to the two an
batteries. At
this point I think I am going to try to wire up to the alternator
but will
need to monitor the output to ensure that I am not robbing the van
batteries.
Any suggestions are welcomed.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom Howarth
WBCCI #6490
 
 

Courtney Gwyn wrote:

> Hi Folks, My 66 Caravel's previous owner was an electrically
challenged
> individual. When I opened the roadside inspection door, it looked
like a
> multi-colored spaghetti dinner. Does anyone know of a reasonable
mail order
> house that handles 12v distribution panels, wire in lengths other
than 500'
> etc? Are circuit breakers preferable to fuses? And, lastly, what
gauge wire
> should run from the tow vehicle alternator to the Bargman for 12v
battery
> charge to the trailer? Thanks- Courtney
>
> PS- Does anyone know the products and method used to get that
killer
> home-made shine on the 31' rig at the Hobo rally?