David Newell wrote:
> Jim, unfortunatly the outlet for the univolt is in the front end andthe
> breaker box is at the other end and it isn't an easy job to splitit out. I
> was even thinking of running an extension to a circuit that isn'ton the GFI
> , unsightly though. I might put an Ohm meter and see if there isobvious
> leakage to ground but haven't taken the time. Also I guess it couldbe the
> GFI itself. WHat year did they start using GFI's do you know? 73Dave
>
Dave,
GFIs started coming into widespread usage in the early 70s. When Ibuilt my
house, I ordered 6 GFIs from the distributor who serviced our factory,and he
told me that mine was the largest single order that he had had to thatdate.
(1971) I think that Code was requiring them on outdoor and bathroomoutlets at
that time.
A good alternative for you might be to replace the breaker with a standardone,
then replace the outlets with GFI-style units. Most of these protect
"downstream" outlets also, so if you're lucky enough to have the outsideoutlet
downstream from the one in the kitchen and/or bathroom, you'll notneed to buy
as many of them. It should be a fairly simple job to remove the receptaclesin
the trailer and trace the wiring with a continuity tester.
My own A/S is a 1968 and has 2 breakers, one that feeds the trailer,the other
feeds the UniVolt. All of my electrical stuff is in the rear: battery,breaker
box, and UniVolt. Both breakers are standard non-GFI units.
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