Denny and I go back a long way '60s and we're always trying to pulleachothers leg. I
thought the zip cord would get a rise out of him... Dave :>))

Jim Dunmyer wrote:

> Dave,
> Please tell me that you're joking about running zip cord. That seemsto me to be a
> distinctly Bad Idea.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> David Newell wrote:
>
> > I was thinking that even leakage in the Meg Ohm region would tripthose devises. I
> > guess I need to try an Ohms meter to se if I have a problem andthen buy a new
> > GFI. I still want to get the "univolt" off the damn GFI as it'sdone me in a
> > couple of times now. I need to check the diagram and see if thefridge outlet is
> > on that thing. Maybe I'll runn zip cord from the back... ThinkHendrecksons!.
> > Dave bee in the sump pump situation with no GFI and suvived (DowSt.) these are
> > the thinks that give you the shivers after the fact..
> >
> > Denny644@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > dave,
> > > we belong to a sportsmans club south of here (you were thereonce) and have a
> > > small trailer. there used to be gfi outlet on a 'power pole'to which we
> > > could connect. while kathy and i never had any problems, othercampers did,
> > > but only a few of them. anyway, last summer they pulled out allthe gfi-s.
> > > i'm going to make a short extention cord with a waterproof boxand a gfi.
> > > this will go to the power pole, then my normal 35ft orange cordwill go to the
> > > trailer (only lights, no univolt, too bad). which should keepme from
> > > lighting u\p my life.
> > >
> > > i did'nt know if you had a breaker ($60, protects a whole circuit)or a
> > > receptacle GFI ($12, comes in 15 or 20A ratings, protects itselfand any
> > > outlet downstream). I recommend going with the receptacles becaueof the
> > > sticker shock mentioned in previous email.
> > >
> > > also, its NOT a good idea to wire the lighting cicruits to these.Code
> > > requires only outlets be protected. I started by wiring the basementcircuits
> > > in the house, lights and all. then when i tested it, i was leftin the dark
> > > <smile>. now, i have the outlets down there on GFI, and thelights are run
> > > straight back to the main box. glad i found that while testing.
> > >
> > > another problem i found.....(i know this isn't strictly trailers,but its
> > > stuff you can ponder over when you can't sleep). the Sump Pumpis on a GFI
> > > (must be!). One day it got wet somehow and clicked off. it wasraining, and
> > > we had 3" in the basement before discovering the problem. getthis: i lifted
> > > the pump clear of the water, dried off the motor casing, andheld it a foot
> > > above the surface (with platex living gloves) while it pumpedthe basement
> > > dry. In this case the GFI might be too much of a good thing,but then i did
> > > wade around the basement without frying myself.
> > >
> > > oh, the leak you are looking for (electrical) will be approximately6 to 8
> > > milliamps at 120VAC. I made a tester by wiring a resistor fromblack to green
> > > in an oversize plug. Trial and error got me to about 14Kohmsto make it work.
> > > i wrote to Leviton (makes premium GFI) and described my testerbut they
> > > respectfully declined to respond concerning its efficacy.
> > >
> > > thanks for listening, and remember this advice is worth exactlywhat you are
> > > paying for it!
> > > denny
> > >
> > > (ps: here's to dry waders - no leaks!)
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<jdunmyer@toltbbs.com>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:jdunmyer@toltbbs.com>>