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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Saturday, October 19, 2002 Issue 460
Today's Topics:
1. Re: what's that smell (gas?)
2. inter tubes
3. Re: Travelling w/'updated' Utility Connections
4. Re: inner tubes
5. Re: Painting an Airstream
6. Need a genny compartment
7. Re: What's that Smell
8. Re: What's that Smell
9. how to clean up toilet tanks release handle to rear of toilet
10. Re: Travelling w/'updated' Utility Connections
11. Re: what's that smell (gas?)
12. Re: What's that Smell
13. spare parts
14. Re: spare parts
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 19:22:53 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: what's that smell (gas?)
I wouldn't want to downplay the possibility of a propane/burner problem,
but another possibility occurred to me. Growing up on a farm with well
water having a high sulfur content could cause a smell very similar to
methane when the water was heated in our water heater. Just a thought
about another possibility.
A second possibility also occurred to me and that was a leak in DWV vent
pipe. My Overlander had a modified black water tank vent pipe that was
not properly sealed and under certain atmospheric conditions, there
would be a methane smell near the water heater as the pipe exited
through the roof in the same closet as the water heater.
I bring up these two possibilities knowing that I seem to live with
Murphy's Law on a daily basis.
Good luck in finding your noxious odor source.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Tim Shephard
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 5:10 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: what's that smell (gas?)
I believe they are good and blue. But I will recheck it.
Again we are smelling what we think is propane inside the trailer near
the
water heater when it is running.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 3:45 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: what's that smell (gas?)
> Tim Shephard wrote:
>
> >That is kind of what I am thinking is going on. Seems to only happen
when
> >the water heater is running.
>
> It can also be as simple as a clogged pilot or main burner-
> leading to incomplete combustion.
> Are both flames (pilot and main burner) good and blue?
> --
> Chris Bryant
> mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text
>
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 20:56:00 -0400
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: inter tubes
I noticed that Coker tire offers inter tubes for their tubeless radials.
Under their FAQ's they say some people like them for the increased load
and durability they provide. Is anyone installing them in their trailer
tires? Any opinions?
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 19:37:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Travelling w/'updated' Utility Connections
The connector on the trailer MUST be a male plug in a recessed mounting.
The the power cord has a male plug to go into the service post
receptacle and a FEMALE to fit that male plug in the trailer. Otherwise
you set up a deadly situation with exposed power if the cord is
unplugged from the trailer while plugged into the service post
receptacle. Illegal and unhealthy.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 19:48:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: inner tubes
Inner tubes don't add much to the load carrying capacity, they just hold
air better than tubeless tires, especially on vintage rims. Tubeless
tires won't hold air at all on multipart rims and often not well on
vintage rims made before tubeless tires. The solid rims for tubes tended
to have porous welds. More modern rims still have porous welds but they
are filled with an anerobic substance that sets in the absence of air to
fill the pores.
Inner tubes for radial tires have to be special, often of natural rather
than synthetic rubber, else they won't survive the extra flexing of the
radial tire. There's always the possibility of the tube rubbing against
the tire when the flex and that can wear a big hole in a tube not rated
for a radial tire. And such rubbing adds heat, and shortens both tube
and tire life.
I don't think adding tubes to any tubeless tire on a properly made rim
for tubeless tires will add either increased load or durability. It may
go longer between needing air, at the cost of increased moving weight
(which doesn't help the ride) and increased tire operating temperature
from the tube rubbing against the tire as they flex. Increased operating
temperature generally leads to shorter tire life.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 20:02:21 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Painting an Airstream
Hello Jim,
How much did the paint job on the 26' Argosy cost the customer? I have
one of those puppies, and would LOVE to have it look like the one on
your site! Is that poly paint?
Best regards,
Rik
Jim Bounds wrote:
>
> Next time came soon but in an unusual way. We ran a 75 Argosy 26'
> coach through paint. It had been stripped to the aluminum so we shot
> etching primer on it and based the coach silver with a black center
> band and rocker panel. Again we used the high solids clear and the
> finish came out very nice without all of the prep time. Take a look
> at the coaches on my web site (www.gmccoop.com).
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 20:12:39 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Need a genny compartment
Well, I finally got a Honda EV 6010 generator! Now, I need a curb-side
generator compartment and door for an Argosy or Airstream motorhome. My
1975 26' Argosy motorhome had the genny compartment in the back, and the
Honda won't fit. And I'm also looking for an Airstream spare tire cover,
the aluminum kind that goes on the back of the coach. Better get it
fixed up the way we want BEFORE it gets the expensive paint job!
Any assistance would be appreciated!
Best regards,
Rik
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:37:33 -0800
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: What's that Smell
By all means get a good CO detector.
Does anyone know if a household CO detector will do, or if a special RV
(propane) CO detector is needed?
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: [VAC] Re: What's that Smell
SNIP-------------------
> Second question. I repaired my 31 year old suburaban furnace by cleaning
it
> out and repairing the motor. Could/should I risk using it with an infant
> in the trailer if I get a carbon monoxide dector
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 10:31:13 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: What's that Smell
The household CO detector is a lot easier to acquire most places. I
suspect its not certified to survive the shock and vibration of the RV
and the maker won't take on that additional risk. Presuming that it
survives trick shipping, it has a chance of surviving in the RV, but if
its not certified for the RV and it fails, your heirs won't be
successful in their wrongful death suit.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 10:51:51 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: how to clean up toilet tanks release handle to rear of toilet
Hi all,
I need some advise:
I'm trying to clean up the brass? turn handle that is the release to the
black water drain. It's located on the deck to the rear of the toilet
platform. It's very blue-brown corroded looking and I want to clean it up
before I lay new flooring. I'm worried that strong cleaners might damage
the fiberglass tank...
Please advise.
Cindy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:37:31 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Travelling w/'updated' Utility Connections
Dave,
On our Avion, I mounted a 20-amp Twist-Lock recessed male "bulkhead
connector" for the incoming power. Yes, it "should" have been a 30-amp
unit, but this really is heavy enough, as we don't have a microwave. The
A/C draws well under 15 amps.
A matching Twist-Lock FEMALE receptacle is on the end of the OEM 30-amp
cord. I also wired up a short #12 pigtail with a standard 15-amp plug
and the 20-amp Twist-Lock receptacle, to allow easy use of a 50' #12
cord that I carry, or use of any other standard cord when I don't need
the full-power capabilities of the heavy OEM cord.
I bought the bulkhead connector and one of the matching receptacles
("cord cap") at a ham fest, the other came from a local electrical
supply house.
This setup is far safer than yours and is highly recommended. Sometime,
sooner or later, someone will make a mistake that could be embarrasing
at best, tragic at worst.
<<Jim>>
Dave Huffman wrote:
> If I keep this set-up, I'll get a 15' (probably a 25'
> and cut it down) heavy-duty power cord to adapt to male-to-male.
> It worked A-OK, nice to not have to unlock/open the Util.Door, unscrew
> the PVC outlet cap, and feed hose and cord through it, pulling them out to
> the campground mounts. But... a danger here: ONCE PLUGGED INTO LIVE POWER,
> YOU CAN HAVE AN OPEN MALE POWERED PLUG! I just plugged in all starting at
> the trailer outlet, plugging the power cord into the Campground Unit last.
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:40:11 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: what's that smell (gas?)
Tim,
It is a simple matter to use a soap solution and a small brush to
check for leaks. Don't guess, find the leak.
I wouldn't simply replace thw water heater, as the leak could well be
coming from a connection, not the heater itself.
<<Jim>>
Tim Shephard wrote:
> I believe they are good and blue. But I will recheck it.
>
> Again we are smelling what we think is propane inside the trailer near the
> water heater when it is running.
>
> -Tim
>
> -
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:59:49 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: What's that Smell
While at the Fall Escapade, I attended a seminar on fire safety, where
the person indicated that not all CO and Smoke detectors will stand up
to the vibration and temperature extremes of an RV. Naturally, he sold
suitable detectors at his booth, and we bought one of each. The CO
detector is an "Atwood CO Gas Alarm" with digital readout.
The smoke detector is a "Firex, Item #4651".
This guy also sold foam fire extinguishers that are supposedly much
better than the standard powder-filled jobs that most of us have
on-board. One point he made about the latter is that the vibration of RV
travel will tend to pack the powder into an almost-solid mass, reducing
the effectivness if it's needed. It's suggested that you turn it
upside-down and give it a couple or 3 solid raps against something
before use, if you have the presence of mind.
FWIW: we carry FOUR extinguishers: one by the trailer door, one in the
(rear) bathroom, and one behind EACH seat in the P/U truck. At least a
couple are of a larger-than-"standard" size.
Also, FWIW: This guy (with 30+ years of relevant experience) claims that
about 70% of RV fires are caused by the 12VDC electrical system. From
what I've read over the years, I tend to believe it. I personally
believe that a good step towards prevention is a so-called catastrophe
fuse in the main battery lead. It should be about 40 amps in size for
most of our travel trailers, and can be installed in either the positive
or negative lead. Many experts recommend the negative lead, and it must
be situated very near the battery(s). Although it's unlikely that you'll
get shocked by 12VDC, you should realize that the standard battery in
our RVs can deliver up to 2000 amps for a short time. This amount of
current will melt wires, burn holes in your aluminum trailer, and can
easily set other stuff on fire. Besides, the fumes from burning wire
insulation are highly toxic.
<<Jim>>
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> By all means get a good CO detector.
>
> Does anyone know if a household CO detector will do, or if a special RV
> (propane) CO detector is needed?
>
> Scott
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 18:21:11 -0500
From: "Todd McDonald" <tod47d@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: spare parts
I'm thinking of ordering some spare parts to have, got the new bargman
doorknob (as it was broken and a security issue as well as "the" high use
item--in&out--in&out.....) Getting cabinet latches, screen door latch,
window hardware thought of, What else would be "list advised heavy wear
items??? tod47d
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN.
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------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 18:46:46 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: spare parts
Greetings Todd!
The one part that I would suggest considering in addition to those you
mention is at least one replacement lens for each of your rig's exterior
lights if they are still available. Had I done this when I first
purchased my Overlander nearly 8 years ago, I could have had brand new
replacement lenses for my Bargman 99 tail light lenses. Decided not to
take a chance of that happening with my '78 Argosy Minuet - - just
returned from the Airstream dealer where I purchased all new replacement
lens for each of its exterior lights.
Good luck in finding the spare parts that you are seeking.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Todd McDonald
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 5:21 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] spare parts
I'm thinking of ordering some spare parts to have, got the new bargman
doorknob (as it was broken and a security issue as well as "the" high
use
item--in&out--in&out.....) Getting cabinet latches, screen door latch,
window hardware thought of, What else would be "list advised heavy wear
items??? tod47d
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
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------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #460
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