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VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Wednesday, October 16, 2002      Issue 457
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. What if
        2. Hitch 4-sale
        3. Re: wire nuts VS crimp connectors
        4. Re: ista view windows
        5. Re: What if
        6. Re: What's that smell?
        7. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
        8. Re: What if it freezes and I'm not prepared?
        9. Re: What if
       10. Re: What if
       11. Re: Hitch 4-sale
       12. Marvel Refrigerator/Ice Box & wall heater
       13. center-punches
       14. yay for center punch
       15. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
       16. Stabilizer Jacks?
       17. Re: Stabilizer Jacks?
       18. Old Oxwall Levels
       19. HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ADDRESS BOOK
       20. Re: HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ADDRESS BOOK
       21. How to protect your address book?
       22. Re: What if (was ventcovers??)




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 19:25:00 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: What if

Now that the temps are starting to drop here in TX, it is a great time to
travel. In fact we are heading up to Dallas next week and will be gone about
3 weeks. The weather forecast looks good, but what if one of those fronts
come through and drops the temp below freezing. I took out the old furnace
in my 1976 Sovereign and plan to repace it one of these days. Now we get by
quite nicely with a couple of small elect heaters. But if it freezes, while
I am out how should I protect my water pipes. Should I do like my dad has
told me for years at home, "leave a couple of faucets dripping"?



------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:16:05 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Hitch 4-sale

I've got a EZ-Lift hitch for sale. Comes with bars, clamps and head with 
2 5/16 ball. Asking $100.00 + shipping. Any takers? :)
Jeff & Daile
Full-Timers
'77 A/S Sovereign



------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:30:38 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: wire nuts VS crimp connectors

Todd,
  Neither one is really suitable for under-vehicle splices, but the 
factories seem to use 'em anyway. Especially wire-nuts. If the wiring is 
unlikely to be disturbed (IE: lights), I'd solder the connections and 
cover with either shrink tubing or splicing tape. (a soft rubbery stuff 
that vulcanizes itself into a solid, impermeable mass) I'd probably use 
Wire-Nuts on the brake magnets, filling them with either plain grease or 
dielectric grease. Then, making sure that they're tipped with the closed 
end 'up' so as to not collect water inside.

                               <<Jim>>

Todd McDonald wrote:

> Howdy y'all,
> I was wondering what the general consensus regarding wire nuts or crimp 
> connectors for brake-tail-turn wiring under the trailer. The old wires 
> look, feel raggely and have some places where the insulation feels 
> cracked, so I may as well replace them (Belly pan is down for a limited 
> time only!) tod47d 67 22' Safari- Aurv the Silver Surfer
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:20:51 -0700
From: Bill Worden <fantods@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: ista view windows

Another way to break the inner window is the vandals method. Bounce a small
1/2" steel ball off the inner pane-sure fire results.









------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:35:22 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: What if

Don,
  Lots of folks do just that, leave a faucet drip. Or, you could leave 
one of those heaters running on "low". I suggest "low" because it'll 
draw less current and cause less heating of old, tired connections if 
you have any.

                          <<Jim>>

Don Hardman wrote:

> Now that the temps are starting to drop here in TX, it is a great time to
> travel. In fact we are heading up to Dallas next week and will be gone about
> 3 weeks. The weather forecast looks good, but what if one of those fronts
> come through and drops the temp below freezing. I took out the old furnace
> in my 1976 Sovereign and plan to repace it one of these days. Now we get by
> quite nicely with a couple of small elect heaters. But if it freezes, while
> I am out how should I protect my water pipes. Should I do like my dad has
> told me for years at home, "leave a couple of faucets dripping"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>  
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:33:42 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: What's that smell?

Sometimes when my tanks get close to empty , I can smell a gas smell , but
cant find the leak with soap either . I think that the  stinky stuff that
they use to enable you to smell gas settles in the bottom of the tank , and
that it just smells more from things like pilot lights . I suppose you should
have the rv place test it for leaking tho - and I think theres something
about how to do that yourself in Tom`s archive .
  Chris

>
>
> On Tuesday, October 15, 2002, at 04:03  PM, Tim Shephard wrote:
>
> > On our last trip out we could smell what we think is propane near the
> > water
> > heater.  We could only smell it at night with the windows closed.
> >
> > The first couple of trips out we did not notice this.
> >
> > So, after we got back I started the water heater and checked for leaks
> > in
> > the gas line with soapy water and cannot find a leak.
> >
> > Any ideas where to go from here?
> >




------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 09:59:02 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story

At 08:59 AM 10/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Great job. I have two vista view s in the rear bed room above the windows in
>my 1976 Sovereign that I need to do this to. The vista views in the front
>under the side windows are clear and are not double pane as yours were. What
>year is your A/S.

Thanks!

I have a 1977 31' mid-bath Sovereign. No Vistaviews in the rear bedroom.

There are 6 in front. All are fogged. I have so far replaced the three 
lower ones. I ran out of Vulcum, so I probably wont get to the upper ones 
till next Spring, as it is getting cold around here.

As I understand it, the double pane windows were an option, but yours is 
the first I have heard that had both single and double pane. What are the 
regular windows?

Dave

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 8:06 PM
>Subject: [VAC] De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
>
>
> > Welp - I finally took the plunge and decided to do something about my
> > fogged Vistaview windows.
> >
> > You can see what I did here: http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/wbcci/vview/
> >
> > Enjoy!
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> >
> > WBCCI: 5074
> >
> > 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> > Cincinnati, Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:39:10 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: What if it freezes and I'm not prepared?

Hi Don,

Being quite new to towing in freezing weather, I have experienced Texas Pan
Handle weather in December.  Like near 0 degrees the time we passed through
while traveling in a conversion van with only an electric heater for
survival.  Not a fun experience!  Anyway, if you are looking back through
the achieves, you should find many references to frozen and burst pipes that
happen while on the road, not only while parked in a camp!!!

Airstream had a great idea to direct hot air from the furnace to the holding
tanks, behind the bathroom panels to warm the plumbing, and upfront in the
water pump area.  Guess these come and go with different years.
Unfortunately, you might be traveling for many hours in a day through
freezing temperatures without the heater being on.  No chance to leave the
water pump running continuously to keep pipes from freezing?  Nothing like
shifting 200+ pounds of upfront water to the holding tanks to cause your
trailer to shake it's head a bit.  Might be OK with a shore hookup.  Even
campgrounds shut the water off and drain lines when the freeze hits.

So, my recommendation is to become a dry camper when you expect it to
freeze - that is, drain the lines!  One thing I think might turn out to be
neat is the PEX doesn't transfer heat like copper does.  I noticed that the
foam insulation on the copper plumbing in my Safari had long ago
deteriorated.  Might be a good idea to inspect your pipes and restore this
insulation with modern stuff.  This might slow the freeze.  Anyway, the
water heater shouldn't freeze due to the large volume, nor should the
potable water tank.  Frozen holding tanks would be nasty, dump 'em and add
some antifreeze?

I find that disconnecting the shower hose and opening the mixing valves
immediately drains the lines if I open the system drain valve.  The shower
mixer lines freeze first because they have small diameter and the lack of
heat.  The toilet flush valve is another that is easily damaged by a freeze
and is a simple matter to drain.  I still worry about the water pump due to
it's location and exposure.  I'm thinking of putting a foam cap over it.

It seems to me that one of the pre-travel preparations would be to drain the
lines, not necessarily blow them out.  If you absolutely must have water,
the potable water tank should pump water back to the faucets.  If the hot
and cold water lines run clear, then the hot water tank could be heated and
the by pass opened.

In my Argosy, the furnace heating ducts to the holding tanks were long ago
broken off by past owners.  Also, past maintenance removed the insulation
and baffles around the holding tanks.  If you notice a similar situation in
your Airstream, use caution in freezing weather.  The convection around
plumbing while underway will chill pipes and holding tanks much more rapidly
than in still air.

IMHO, DRAIN THE PIPES IF  YOU EVEN THINK IT MIGHT FREEZE, ESPECIALLY WHEN
YOU'VE REMOVED THE FURNACE AND DEFEATED ALL ATTEMPTS BY AIRSTREAM ENGINEERS
TO KEEP YOU PLUMBING FROM FREEZING.  DRAIN THE PIPES, DRAIN THE PIPES!  AN
ELECTRIC OR CAT HEATER JUST WON'T DO THE JOB!

                                                  Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 22:08:40 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: What if

To accommodate the "dry camping" effort, you can add a porta-potty to the 
mix, or just keep the water in plastic jugs and heat it on the stove, and 
throw the "grey out"... For a few day trip, you can put a couple of gal of 
antifreeze in the black tank and use the regular toilet for those night 
time calls....As far as Texas in the winter, I recommend the Rio Grande 
valley... San Benito and Harlingen are below the frost line and you can 
wait out the cold....Last year we didn't add water until we were in the 
Corpus Christi area...(Between Christmas and New Years..)

Hope to see some or all of you there this winter....

Jim Clark



At 07:25 PM 10/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Now that the temps are starting to drop here in TX, it is a great time to
>travel. In fact we are heading up to Dallas next week and will be gone about
>3 weeks. The weather forecast looks good, but what if one of those fronts
>come through and drops the temp below freezing. I took out the old furnace
>in my 1976 Sovereign and plan to repace it one of these days. Now we get by
>quite nicely with a couple of small elect heaters. But if it freezes, while
>I am out how should I protect my water pipes. Should I do like my dad has
>told me for years at home, "leave a couple of faucets dripping"?



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 23:12:29 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What if

Why can't you run down the road with the furnace and water heater on?  I
know people that do this with newer units and they tell me it's safe.  Must
be a propane inline fuse just in case?

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 1:08 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: What if


> To accommodate the "dry camping" effort, you can add a porta-potty to the
> mix, or just keep the water in plastic jugs and heat it on the stove, and
> throw the "grey out"... For a few day trip, you can put a couple of gal of
> antifreeze in the black tank and use the regular toilet for those night
> time calls....As far as Texas in the winter, I recommend the Rio Grande
> valley... San Benito and Harlingen are below the frost line and you can
> wait out the cold....Last year we didn't add water until we were in the
> Corpus Christi area...(Between Christmas and New Years..)
>
> Hope to see some or all of you there this winter....
>
> Jim Clark
>
>
>
> At 07:25 PM 10/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Now that the temps are starting to drop here in TX, it is a great time to
> >travel. In fact we are heading up to Dallas next week and will be gone
about
> >3 weeks. The weather forecast looks good, but what if one of those fronts
> >come through and drops the temp below freezing. I took out the old
furnace
> >in my 1976 Sovereign and plan to repace it one of these days. Now we get
by
> >quite nicely with a couple of small elect heaters. But if it freezes,
while
> >I am out how should I protect my water pipes. Should I do like my dad has
> >told me for years at home, "leave a couple of faucets dripping"?
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 23:19:12 -0400
From: corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Corbin C Bates)
Subject: Re: Hitch 4-sale

Where would the shipping be from and how much is its shipping weight.

Corbin
Have trailer will travel...

Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:

>I've got a EZ-Lift hitch for sale. Comes with bars, clamps and head with 
>2 5/16 ball. Asking $100.00 + shipping. Any takers? :)
>Jeff & Daile
>Full-Timers
>'77 A/S Sovereign
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> 
>


-- 
 Corbin C Bates

 We are Penguin, 
 Resistance is futile. 
  . .   ____    ____   .
  . .  [    \  /    ]  .
  . .   | GO BLUE! |   .
  . .   |  |\  /|  |   .
  . .  [____]\/[____]  . 
 
 Talk at ya later.........


__________________________________________________________________
The NEW Netscape 7.0 browser is now available. Upgrade now! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/browsers/download.jsp 

Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/


------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 23:13:33 -0600
From: "Ken and Molly Reed" <archneo@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Marvel Refrigerator/Ice Box & wall heater

Hello listees!

We have a late-40s early 50s propane wall heater in near-perfect condition
we would like to sell or trade.  We are looking for a Marvel 110 electric
refrigerator/ice box to place in our brand-new to us 1949 Silver Streak
Clipper.  If anyone is interested in the heater or has a Marvel they'd like
to sell, please contact us offlist.  Thanks!

Ken & Molly Reed
'57 Bubble
'57 Chevy Suburban
'49 Silver Streak Clipper
'49 tow vehicle yet to be acquired.....(are we going backwards????!!)



------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 08:06:06 -0400
From: "dave cole" <davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: center-punches



Dave Cole
532 Kinsley Ave, Box 27
Providence, RI 02909
davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org
www.openarts.org/davecole

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of Chris
Elliott
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 8:34 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: What's that smell?

Sometimes when my tanks get close to empty , I can smell a gas smell , but
cant find the leak with soap either . I think that the  stinky stuff that
they use to enable you to smell gas settles in the bottom of the tank , and
that it just smells more from things like pilot lights . I suppose you
should
have the rv place test it for leaking tho - and I think theres something
about how to do that yourself in Tom`s archive .
  Chris

>
>
> On Tuesday, October 15, 2002, at 04:03  PM, Tim Shephard wrote:
>
> > On our last trip out we could smell what we think is propane near the
> > water
> > heater.  We could only smell it at night with the windows closed.
> >
> > The first couple of trips out we did not notice this.
> >
> > So, after we got back I started the water heater and checked for leaks
> > in
> > the gas line with soapy water and cannot find a leak.
> >
> > Any ideas where to go from here?
> >





To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text




------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 08:21:42 -0400
From: "dave cole" <davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: yay for center punch

Its been said before, but PLEASE wear safety glasses (as in, not just
everyday reading glasses) when busting auto glass.

Cheap center punches (wal-mart, k-mart, harbor freight) work great on auto
glass.  A good friend bought a bunch last Christmas to give to all his
relatives.  They all keep them in the center consoles of their cars in case
they go off the road into water and the window will not roll down. (Not
paranoia, they all live in the north country on icy roads)

The only reasons to spend the money on a nice punch is for continuous use in
a shop, or for any use on iron or steel


Dave Cole
532 Kinsley Ave, Box 27
Providence, RI 02909
davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org
www.openarts.org/davecole

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of Ken
and Molly Reed
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 1:14 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Marvel Refrigerator/Ice Box & wall heater

Hello listees!

We have a late-40s early 50s propane wall heater in near-perfect condition
we would like to sell or trade.  We are looking for a Marvel 110 electric
refrigerator/ice box to place in our brand-new to us 1949 Silver Streak
Clipper.  If anyone is interested in the heater or has a Marvel they'd like
to sell, please contact us offlist.  Thanks!

Ken & Molly Reed
'57 Bubble
'57 Chevy Suburban
'49 Silver Streak Clipper
'49 tow vehicle yet to be acquired.....(are we going backwards????!!)




To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text




------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 08:00:50 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story

All are single pane except the two Vista Views over the rear side windows.

Don Hardman

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> As I understand it, the double pane windows were an option, but yours is
> the first I have heard that had both single and double pane. What are the
> regular windows?



------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 08:12:46 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Stabilizer Jacks?

I'm looking for stab jacks for my trailer, good fit but not AIRSTREAM 
replacements, just looking for some experiences that you all have had, 
products verses fit etc. We're a little tight on funds and need an easy 
fix. We're using the cheap jack stands at the moment and wish to return 
to the stabilizer jacks as they are nicer to use, any ideas?
Jeff & Daile
Full-Timers
'77 A/S Sovereign



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:52:34 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks?

I think you get about what you pay for with the stabilizer jacks... The 
lower cost units are usually lighter, don't get down as far, and when 
installed on the Airstream are a pain to put down due to having to reach 
under the trailer to engage the drive...  I have been told that the 
Airstream units have a longer "bolt" and are the sturdier version.  We had 
the RV shop we had some work done at put on a set of Airstream supplied 
jacks and have never felt sorry we did that...  How about a pair of good 
crank down jacks in the rear and keep using the stands in the front for 
another season?  I always had more problems with the rear stands and 
depending on the traffic pattern in the trailer, you might just forget to 
put the fronts down from time to time and go with the hitch jack and the 
two rear stabilizers...

Just another idea...

Jim



At 08:12 AM 10/16/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm looking for stab jacks for my trailer, good fit but not AIRSTREAM 
>replacements, just looking for some experiences that you all have had, 
>products verses fit etc. We're a little tight on funds and need an easy 
>fix. We're using the cheap jack stands at the moment and wish to return to 
>the stabilizer jacks as they are nicer to use, any ideas?
>Jeff & Daile
>Full-Timers
>'77 A/S Sovereign
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 09:58:36 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Old Oxwall Levels

Anybody find a replacement for the rivet-on oxwall levels?  They're riveted
onto a metal support that was riveted to the trailer ext. wall of my 59
Traveler.  I'd like to put new levels onto the original support pieces if I
can find them.  I did several unsuccessful internet searches...does anyone
have info on these or are they simply relics that are unusable?
Cindy




------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 21:02:20 +0000
From: smgm@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ADDRESS BOOK

Since we were all talking about the worm virus a few 
days ago, I thought I'd send in to the List what a 
friend sent to me recently.

********************************************

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ADDRESS BOOK FROM THE WORM VIRUS!

A trick that's really ingenious in it simplicity. As you 
may know, when/if a worm virus gets into your computer 
it heads straight for your e-mail address book, and 
sends itself to everyone in there, thus infecting all 
your friends and associates. This trick won't keep the 
virus from getting into your computer, but it will stop 
it from using your address book to spread further, and 
it will alert you to the fact, that the worm has gotten 
into your system.

Here's what you do: first, open your address book and 
click on "new contact" just as you would do if you were 
adding a new friend to your list of email addresses.
In the window where you would type your friend's first 
name, type in AAAAAAA. In the window below where it 
prompts you to enter the new email address, type in 
WormAlert@xxxxxxxxxx.com Then complete everything by 
clicking add, enter, OK, etc.

Now, here's what you've done and why it works: 
The "name" AAAAAAA will be placed at the top of your 
address book as entry #1. This will be where the worm 
will start in an effort to send itself to all your 
friends. But when it tries to send itself to AAAAAAA, it 
will be undeliverable because of the phony email address 
you entered (WormAlert@xxxxxxxxxx.com).

If the first attempt fails (which it will because of the 
phony address), the worm goes no further and your 
friends will not be infected. (Of course, eventually 
someone will write a worm to get around this.)

Here's the second great advantage of this method: If an 
email cannot be delivered, you will be notified of this 
in your Inbox almost immediately. Hence, if you ever get 
an email telling you that an email addressed to 
WormAlert@xxxxxxxxxx.com could not be delivered, you know 
right away you have the worm virus in your system. You 
can then take steps to get rid of it!

Pretty slick huh?

If everybody you know does this then you needn't ever 
worry about opening mail from friends.

Pass this on!

Of course, this is a wee bit self-serving, if you do 
this and I happen to be in your address book (which I 
had better be), you can't send me your bug!

--
Gary Murrell
smgm@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://murrell.topcities.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 15:16:34 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ADDRESS BOOK

What "steps to get rid of it!" would be recommended.

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari 
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA  

> Hence, if you ever get 
> an email telling you that an email addressed to 
> WormAlert@xxxxxxxxxx.com could not be delivered, you know 
> right away you have the worm virus in your system. You 
> can then take steps to get rid of it!

> Gary Murrell
> smgm@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> http://murrell.topcities.com




------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 18:12:44 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <rainsworth8@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: How to protect your address book?

Simple, get rid of windows and install LINUX.

Penguins are our friends.
Ron Ainsworth





------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 23:51:36 +0000
From: mani <mani@xxxxxxxxxx.nl>
Subject: Re: What if (was ventcovers??)

> Hi Don,

I presume you didn't find the ventcovers in your garage?

Greetings
Victor Mani




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