The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, October 15, 2002 Issue 456
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire
2. De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
3. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
4. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
5. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
6. Re: Critters
7. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
8. Re: Critters
9. Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
10. Re: Critters
11. Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
12. Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
13. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
14. wire nuts VS crimp connectors
15. water heater-inland rv
16. Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
17. Interesting item on eBay web site item#1867506308: Bowen RV Motorhome/Trailer Water Heater NOS
18. Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
19. Critters
20. Re: wire nuts VS crimp connectors
21. Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
22. Re: Critters
23. Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
24. Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
25. Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
26. What's that smell?
27. Re: What's that smell?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 20:05:15 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire
Hi Jim,
I was waaaaay under the trailer and did not see any shut off valves at
all. It has great belly pan clearance though!
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire
Ed,
Look under the trailer to be certain that A/S didn't locate a shutoff
valve there. Our '68 G.T. had the water heater shutoff under the body
and you couldn't see it w/o bending way down.
<<Jim>>
Edward Emerick wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I spent a good part of today after the Packer Game ( GO PACK 5-1)
trying
> to get my neighbor?s furnace to fire in her 69 Globe Trotter with no
> luck. I turn it on to pilot, press, hold, open the little window and
> light the match and nothing. Check the gas line to see if there is a
> shut off, no shut off. Check to see if there is a wall mounted
> thermostat, nothing but the AC. I don?t even smell gas when I turn it
on
> with nothing lit ( I know not the smartest thing to do but hey, no
fire,
> no gas, no explosion!) I have the original paperwork for the thing but
> the pictures don?t really show anything about lighting it and since I
> went to public school pictures would really help me now. Any
> suggestions? On a positive note I did get the stove, oven, fridge and
> water heater to burn on gas so the afternoon wasn?t a total loss.
>
>
>
> Thanks and I still have all the hair on my knuckles,
>
> Ed
>
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>
> 68 Sovereign
>
> 59 Traveler
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:06:34 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
Welp - I finally took the plunge and decided to do something about my
fogged Vistaview windows.
You can see what I did here: http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/wbcci/vview/
Enjoy!
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:48:01 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
Nice write up, Dave. Should be easy for others to replicate the process on
their Vista view windows. Thanks for sharing.
Jim Greene
' 68 tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 21:06
Subject: [VAC] De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
> Welp - I finally took the plunge and decided to do something about my
> fogged Vistaview windows.
>
> You can see what I did here: http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/wbcci/vview/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Dave
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:11:56 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
Superb Dave.
I had the tools out two years ago ready to do the same on the overhead Vista
Views of my 76 and then got gun shy. I knew I could do it but was selling
it and decided to not do it at the last minute just in case the worst
happened. I only knew what you did and that was to try and see if it works.
Did you use a punch around the edges to break the inner pane? I had planned
on a limited travel punch to prevent it from traveling too far. My worry
was that a shard would break the outer pane but it appears that it just
crumbled. Good job!
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 22:20:27 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
At 09:11 PM 10/14/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Did you use a punch around the edges to break the inner pane? I had planned
>on a limited travel punch to prevent it from traveling too far. My worry
>was that a shard would break the outer pane but it appears that it just
>crumbled.
All I used was a screwdriver in one spot. The glass is auto safety glass,
so it breaks into a LOT of small pieces, as opposed to large pointed ones.
The tape helped keep all the pieces together.
I broke it at an edge, so that the outer pane would have better support in
case my screwdriver went through the inner pane and hit it.
Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:38:40 -0500
From: "Louis Joyner" <joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Critters
While winterizing is a current topic, how about prepping for that other
visitation that comes with winter: mice. Having spent a good chunk of last
spring removing their nests and treasures, I'd rather not repeat the
experience to such and extent. I've never had much luck mouseproofing, and
given the state of the belly pan on my trailer, there's not much hope of
keeping them out. Mice seem to have figured out about D-Con (finding the
hidden corpses is another issue). Ttraps are great as long as you tend them
regularly, but that won't be possible. So. I've heard that mothballs and
mint are effective repellents. These aslo sound like old wives' tales. Any
experience or options out there? How about if I just attach a couple of
leads from an electric fence whatsit?
Thanks folks
Louis Joyner
'64 Overlander, sweet smelling at last
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 19:26:00 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
Hello Dave,
Another beautiful job, and another beautiful web site to share it with
us! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to document the process.!!
Best regards,
Rik
David W. Lowrey wrote:
> Welp - I finally took the plunge and decided to do something about my
> fogged Vistaview windows.
>
> You can see what I did here: http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/wbcci/vview/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Dave
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 20:58:42 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Critters
Some farmers claim that fabric softener sheets will repel mice, others
tell of mice making nests of fabric softener sheets left in equipment
cabs hoping to discourage the mice. The farm cat seems to be a help.
D-Con dead mice weren't supposed to smell, but my garage has a distinct
dead mouse odor after I tossed a box of D-con back in the corner. Don't
see mice at the moment, at least not any that are moving.
A couple of wires from the electric fencer will only work if the fencer
is strong enough to physically fry the mice. Mice (and rats) don't die
from fibrillation like humans and chickens. Been there, tried that,
killed NO mice. A simple trap baited with a kernel of puffed rice was
quite effective in that lab where the high voltage power supply had no
effect (not even when I made the mice cross a metal tray covered with
salty water to get to the bait cheese with the high voltage attached,
and the mice got fed from the bait.) Truly fried mice are not going to
have any better odor (probably worse) than those caught by D-con.
Burning fur and flesh tends to produce a very unpleasant odor.
There are mouse traps that will hold a dozen or more mice without
killing them though if not attended the crowd eventually can die of
starvation. I've not had as great a success with the multiple shot mouse
trap as the plain old Victor baitable spring trap.
I've tried mothballs and I don't know if they were a repellant or not.
They tended to repel me in close spaces though. They are more odiforous
than fabric softener sheets. I suspect fabric softener sheet effectivity
may depend on the brand and "flavor" of the particular sheet as well as
its age, e.g. how long its been since it was made and how long the box
has been open.
Maybe surrounding the tongue jack with a pan of used motor oil would
discourage mice from climbing up there, then parking the tires on blocks
in the middle of pans of oil could persuade the mice to look elsewhere
for a home. Water wouldn't work, it would freeze and mice can swim. Deep
enough oil might discourage them, especially if it was thin. But not so
thin as kerosine where it could evaporate over the winter.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 23:06:01 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
Dave,
You could also have used an *automatic center punch* and not had to worry
about punching through to the other panel.
Tom
> All I used was a screwdriver in one spot. The glass is auto safety glass,
> so it breaks into a LOT of small pieces, as opposed to large pointed ones.
> The tape helped keep all the pieces together.
>
> I broke it at an edge, so that the outer pane would have better support in
> case my screwdriver went through the inner pane and hit it.
>
> Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 23:54:35 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Critters
What about building a moat filled with poisonous water around the Airstream?
You could put up a sign so that no regular pets go near the place. ;)
Tom
Subject: [VAC] Re: Critters
> Some farmers claim that fabric softener sheets will repel mice, others
> tell of mice making nests of fabric softener sheets left in equipment
> cabs hoping to discourage the mice. The farm cat seems to be a help.
> D-Con dead mice weren't supposed to smell, but my garage has a distinct
> dead mouse odor after I tossed a box of D-con back in the corner. Don't
> see mice at the moment, at least not any that are moving.
>
> A couple of wires from the electric fencer will only work if the fencer
> is strong enough to physically fry the mice. Mice (and rats) don't die
> from fibrillation like humans and chickens. Been there, tried that,
> killed NO mice. A simple trap baited with a kernel of puffed rice was
> quite effective in that lab where the high voltage power supply had no
> effect (not even when I made the mice cross a metal tray covered with
> salty water to get to the bait cheese with the high voltage attached,
> and the mice got fed from the bait.) Truly fried mice are not going to
> have any better odor (probably worse) than those caught by D-con.
> Burning fur and flesh tends to produce a very unpleasant odor.
>
> There are mouse traps that will hold a dozen or more mice without
> killing them though if not attended the crowd eventually can die of
> starvation. I've not had as great a success with the multiple shot mouse
> trap as the plain old Victor baitable spring trap.
>
> I've tried mothballs and I don't know if they were a repellant or not.
> They tended to repel me in close spaces though. They are more odiforous
> than fabric softener sheets. I suspect fabric softener sheet effectivity
> may depend on the brand and "flavor" of the particular sheet as well as
> its age, e.g. how long its been since it was made and how long the box
> has been open.
>
> Maybe surrounding the tongue jack with a pan of used motor oil would
> discourage mice from climbing up there, then parking the tires on blocks
> in the middle of pans of oil could persuade the mice to look elsewhere
> for a home. Water wouldn't work, it would freeze and mice can swim. Deep
> enough oil might discourage them, especially if it was thin. But not so
> thin as kerosine where it could evaporate over the winter.
>
> Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 05:48:15 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
At 11:06 PM 10/14/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Dave,
>
>You could also have used an *automatic center punch* and not had to worry
>about punching through to the other panel.
I have never heard of that. What is it? is it expensive?
Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 06:35:46 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tompatterson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
Several years ago, I had a sheet metal shop make a copy of the new heater
door for my Streamline trailer out of milled finish aluminum. It worked out
quite well. I don't recall the cost right now.
-Tom
> I had my new shroud made of stainless. The old heater was wider than the
> new one, so I had to have something to fill the gap. Took some doing as
it
> had to bend in several directions where it wrapped around the bottom of
the
> trailer. The only problem with stainless is that it isn't really the same
> color as the aluminum. In many light situations, it almost looks bronze
as
> it doesn't reflect the same as aluminum. During the day, looking straight
> on, it's a pretty good match. Looking from the side, particularly later
in
> the day it really looks different. Not a bad option, but I would imagine
> pricey. The shroud cost about $100. I expect the door would be very
close.
> Pete
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:59:39 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
Great job. I have two vista view s in the rear bed room above the windows in
my 1976 Sovereign that I need to do this to. The vista views in the front
under the side windows are clear and are not double pane as yours were. What
year is your A/S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 8:06 PM
Subject: [VAC] De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
> Welp - I finally took the plunge and decided to do something about my
> fogged Vistaview windows.
>
> You can see what I did here: http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/wbcci/vview/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Dave
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:52:34 -0500
From: "Todd McDonald" <tod47d@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: wire nuts VS crimp connectors
Howdy y'all,
I was wondering what the general consensus regarding wire nuts or crimp
connectors for brake-tail-turn wiring under the trailer. The old wires look,
feel raggely and have some places where the insulation feels cracked, so I
may as well replace them (Belly pan is down for a limited time only!) tod47d
67 22' Safari- Aurv the Silver Surfer
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:53:28 -0500
From: "Jim Taylor" <jop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: water heater-inland rv
Just want to share a little joy. I am working on my 73 sovereign which I =
purchased early this year. It was purchased for a specific use the first =
3 weeks of July each year(THE GREAT CIRCUS TRAIN and GREAT CIRCUS PARADE =
in BARABOO and MILWAUKEE WI) EACH YEAR. although I have participated in =
the event for several years this was my first to enjoy the pleasure of =
of my newly acquired airstream. As everyone knows there is never a time =
when everything works like it should on a rv. We all just grin or =
grimmace and tell everyone all is perfect. Reading everyones posts on =
the vac site is a daily routine I enjoy a lot even though I do not send =
mail very often. My most recent improvement has been the installation of =
a new atwood 10 gal water heater with electonic ignition I purchased =
from Andy at Inland. One call to inland got me the water heater that fit =
the existing hole in the side of my unit and the door is painted with =
the appropriate silver color. Having a place to purchase the parts that =
always fit and look right has certainly been worth the cost. It has been =
great for me to have someone like Andy to call and get fast and accurate =
help and information plus the availability of the right parts that are =
true replacements for the original. I dont intend for this to be a =
commercial message just a testimonial.=20
Jim Taylor
Coffeyville Ks
wbcci 5562
73 soverign
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 09:22:35 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
I have this silver colored galvanized spray paint I got at Home Depot I am
going to try. Anything has to look better than that white color.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> David,
> I finished the same job earlier this year. Really big job! I thought I'd
> be smart and have the new (white) door powder coated. Tried spary paint
> first and it looked terrible. Took it to a local company who had to
> sandblast all of the paint off first. The metal was so thin they ended up
> warping it something terrible. The $50 charge was dropped and I had a
nice
> color waivey door. I was able to bend most of it back to shape, and even
> got it to fit. Looks better than the white and the spray job. Too bad we
> can't get a bare aluminum door.
> Pete
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 07:30:44 PDT
From: drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1867506308: Bowen RV Motorhome/Trailer Water Heater NOS
There is a new in the box Bowen 9.9 gal water heater on Ebay. Somabody might be interested.
Jim Greene
'68 Tradewind
Title of item: Bowen RV Motorhome/Trailer Water Heater NOS
Seller: kewpid
Starts: Oct-09-02 13:04:57 PDT
Ends: Oct-19-02 13:04:57 PDT
Price: Currently $103.50
To bid on the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1867506308
Item Description:
Bowen RV Motorhome/Trailer Water Heater NOS
This is a new Bowen/Atwood Vacuum Machine Co. RV gas water heater with it's original box from approx. 1970. I took it out of the box for the photos. This unit has never been installed or used. I can't find anything wrong with it other than the fact thaorida. I will need to know your zip code from 97530 to get actual shipping costs. The package weighs approx. 35 lbs. Thanks. NO RESERVE !!
Created by
eBay Seller's Assistant Basic.
On Oct-10-02 at 13:17:40 PDT, seller added the following information:
Pay for this auction online with the BidPay
SM service.
Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:37:13 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
A good automatic center punch runs about $15. I've found poor ones at
Walmart for much less, but their tips seem to be soft and their impact
not strong. There is a spring loaded plunger that retracts as you push
then a spring loaded hammer is tripped and does the punching. Originally
made by Starret, they are made by many since the Starret patent expired
about 70 years ago.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:53:59 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Critters
Re: Critters
>>> Some farmers claim that fabric softener sheets will repel mice, others
>>> tell of mice making nests of fabric softener sheets left in equipment
>>> cabs hoping to discourage the mice. The farm cat seems to be a help.
>>> D-Con dead mice weren't supposed to smell, but my garage has a distinct
>>> dead mouse odor after I tossed a box of D-con back in the corner. Don't
>>> see mice at the moment, at least not any that are moving.
>
My neighbor told me a fertilizer called "blood meal" was high in nitrogen
and keeps his trailer free of mice. He puts a little in small margarine tubs
on the floor of his trailer. Sounded like he was pulling my leg.
The guy in our local lawn and garden department surprised me when he said it
sounded about right. Not a raving review or a "go get it" suggestion, but
something different. Maybe I'll try it this Winter.
My neighbor has a new cat with kittens. Who knows, perhaps I'll have a
feline family protecting my Airstream while it sits out in the cold.
So far, I haven't found a really good way for controlling the variables
needed for a scientific experiment that gives proof positive answers.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:58:21 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: wire nuts VS crimp connectors
I don't appreciate the wire nuts well. The old ones didn't have any
protection for the connection and one of my brakes seems intermittent
and wiggling the wire nut connection changes it. I'd prefer the wire nut
was physically supported by more than the wire and that it was filled
with silicone grease or aluminum conductor grease to keep out moisture.
Otherwise the better of the wire nuts I've observed to still hold wires
together after house fires.
I've had problems with crimp connectors on antennas where I didn't fill
the crimp with solder (which is NOT good for a stranded wire connection
because the solder wicks in between the strands and makes the connection
liable to failure from wire flexing outside the crimp connector, just
what the crimp connection is supposed to prevent) when water got in and
froze. While the ends of the crimp were open, it didn't open the crimp
like a water filled pipe, but just enough to make a quarter hair
clearance between what was supposed to be contacting metals and made the
antenna receive poorly but transmit fine.
Wire nuts until they get really corroded will be far easier to replace
on the road edge where replacing a crimp splice will mean loosing the
length of the old crimp each time. Ok if you leave extra wire, bad if
you don't have extra wire to stretch to the new crimp splice.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 12:58:36 -0400
From: jrdorsey <jrdorsey@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: De-Fogging Vistaview Windows - My Story
There are spring loaded punches made for firefighters to break auto
glass with. they are not cheap but maybe cheaper than a new outer window.
You could also check with your local fire department, they may loan you
one (if they have one, most just use an axe :-) or they may pop them for
you if you take the trailer by. Firefighters LOVE to break glass!
Dave Lowrey wrote:
>
> At 09:11 PM 10/14/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Did you use a punch around the edges to break the inner pane? I had planned
> >on a limited travel punch to prevent it from traveling too far. My worry
> >was that a shard would break the outer pane but it appears that it just
> >crumbled.
>
> All I used was a screwdriver in one spot. The glass is auto safety glass,
> so it breaks into a LOT of small pieces, as opposed to large pointed ones.
> The tape helped keep all the pieces together.
>
> I broke it at an edge, so that the outer pane would have better support in
> case my screwdriver went through the inner pane and hit it.
>
> Dave
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
John Dorsey
Wauchula FL
http://www.strato.net/~jrdorsey
'49 3800 Chevy Panel
'52 640 GMC Firetruck
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 13:02:00 -0400
From: jrdorsey <jrdorsey@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Critters
Louis,
Send me you address and I'll FedEx you a kitten. We have several extras
just lying around.
Louis Joyner wrote:
>
> While winterizing is a current topic, how about prepping for that other
> visitation that comes with winter: mice. Having spent a good chunk of last
> spring removing their nests and treasures, I'd rather not repeat the
> experience to such and extent. I've never had much luck mouseproofing, and
> given the state of the belly pan on my trailer, there's not much hope of
> keeping them out. Mice seem to have figured out about D-Con (finding the
> hidden corpses is another issue). Ttraps are great as long as you tend them
> regularly, but that won't be possible. So. I've heard that mothballs and
> mint are effective repellents. These aslo sound like old wives' tales. Any
> experience or options out there? How about if I just attach a couple of
> leads from an electric fence whatsit?
>
> Thanks folks
>
> Louis Joyner
> '64 Overlander, sweet smelling at last
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
John Dorsey
Wauchula FL
http://www.strato.net/~jrdorsey
'49 3800 Chevy Panel
'52 640 GMC Firetruck
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 12:17:36 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
From: "Dave Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> >Dave,
> >
> >You could also have used an *automatic center punch* and not had to worry
> >about punching through to the other panel.
> I have never heard of that. What is it? is it expensive?
> Dave
Starrett tools made a very good automatic center punch for many years and
they probably still do. The fire rescue crews use them to shatter glass
windows. They were originally designed so that you could place the hardened
tip on a mark and by pressing down an internal spring adjustable hammer then
would hit the tip causing the metal the tip was placed on to upset itself.
By upsetting the metal with this tool you would then have an indentation so
you could begin drilling a hole. With the metal upset, a small indentation
made in the metal, your drill bit wouldn't be skidding all over the place
trying to get a bite into the metal.
The cheaper tools made today are not the quality of Starrett. There are
some very good tools out there so remember that you will get what you pay
for. It's probably true today that foreign tool steel is not of the same
quality that companies like Starrett would use. Most foreign countries that
make tools in Asia are made of a lesser quality than the old time lines here
in the good old USA.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 11:18:55 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Vistaview Windows - Automatic Center Punch
Go to this URL to see one, and one of it's uses:
http://www.toolhawk.com/tools/General_Tools_Hand_Tools_Awls_Nail_Sets_7638.c
fm
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:50:23 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
I used Rustoleum, aluminum in color. Lots better than white but not as good
as having a new door made out of aluminum.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
> I have this silver colored galvanized spray paint I got at Home Depot I am
> going to try. Anything has to look better than that white color.
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:03:30 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: What's that smell?
On our last trip out we could smell what we think is propane near the water
heater. We could only smell it at night with the windows closed.
The first couple of trips out we did not notice this.
So, after we got back I started the water heater and checked for leaks in
the gas line with soapy water and cannot find a leak.
Any ideas where to go from here?
Thanks
-Tim
tim@telecom-pros.com
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
'71 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:27:03 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: What's that smell?
One thought is the pilot light in the oven. If the little valve under
the stove top valve is on, it will emit a small amount of LP, even if
unlit.
RJ
On Tuesday, October 15, 2002, at 04:03 PM, Tim Shephard wrote:
> On our last trip out we could smell what we think is propane near the
> water
> heater. We could only smell it at night with the windows closed.
>
> The first couple of trips out we did not notice this.
>
> So, after we got back I started the water heater and checked for leaks
> in
> the gas line with soapy water and cannot find a leak.
>
> Any ideas where to go from here?
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #456
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text