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VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Monday, October 14, 2002      Issue 455
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Argosy Minuet Sizes
        2. Foreign travel-GMPARTS KIT Advertised on Airstream.net
        3. Re: winterizing again
        4. Re: Winterizing Again
        5. Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire
        6. sorry
        7. Re: Foreign travel-GMPARTS KIT Advertised on Airstream.net
        8. Re: 
        9. Re: Avon slide in camper.
       10. Optima Battery
       11. Re: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire
       12. Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)
       13. Re: Optima Battery
       14. Re: Optima Battery
       15. Re: Optima Battery
       16. Re: Winterizing Again
       17. Re: Winterizing Again
       18. Re: Optima Battery
       19. Re: Winterizing Again
       20. Re: Winterizing Again
       21. Re: Optima Battery
       22. Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)
       23. Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)
       24. Re: Winterizing Again
       25. Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:27:07 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Argosy Minuet Sizes


Greetings All!
 
As I continue researching the Argosy Minuet that I purchased in August,
I find myself running into a question that I hadn't anticipated.  In my
travels, I have never encountered anything other than the 6 Meter
Minuet.  Recently, I had the opportunity to review a 1979 factory sales
brochure that listed three Minuet models all distinguished from the
regular line by having a 7.0 foot floor width rather than 7 foot 8 inch
floor width of the regular line.  The models were listed as the familiar
6 Meter Minuet (20 foot) as well as a 22 foot single axle, and a 24 foot
tandem axle Minuet.  I have just had contact with a couple in Colorado
who believe that they have a 22 foot Minuet and its trim identifies it
as a 6.7 Metre which would link it to the 22 foot model.  Has anyone
encountered these other sizes?  As if there weren't enough nuances in
the Airstream line itself, now Argosy nuances are becoming intriguing. 
 
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 


------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:31:46 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Foreign travel-GMPARTS KIT Advertised on Airstream.net


Greetings Francis!
 
I noticed your listing on the VAC classifieds.  I was wondering if the
parts are for a first generation Cadillac HEI system (1975 to 1978 500
cubic inch V8 with standard carburetion).  If the parts are for this
vintage Cadillac, I might be interested.
 
Kevin Allen
 
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 




------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 21:34:54 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: winterizing again

Hello All,
I just finished winterizing 3 units yesterday in preparation of the
harsh WI winter to come. I follow the same procedure that I have used
over the past 5 years with great success. First I do the open the drains
and tilt the trailer, pull it with all the drains open to spill out the
rest of the water. I then put air pressure to the system and work my way
from the front of the unit to the back; the kitchen sink, bathroom sink,
shower, and then the toilet. I then open each drain valve and blow those
out too. Last I open the water heater and finish as that seems to be the
lowest spot in my trailer. I call it quits when no water is detected in
the system. I then pump some antifreeze through the water pump and add
some more in the traps of the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and the
bathtub trap. I take a peak in the black water tank to make sure there's
not too much residual water in there and then I make sure there is no
water left in the gray water system and that's all she wrote. All in all
it takes about 3/4 of an hour to do this. I never pump antifreeze
through the system as there is no need if you use that air pressure
method and it make spring much easier to deal with.

It's a bummer to put it away but I can't go south...................
yet.

Ed 
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (winterized and stored for the winter)
59 Traveler (nothing in it yet)

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 12:17 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: winterizing again

Dick,
  The antifreeze can leave a bad taste in your water system if you pour 
it into the tank. After draining, the little bit of water that is left 
in the tank is harmless when it freezes.

It's important to remember that frozen water in your lines, pump, or 
whereever isn't the issue. What's important is that there's expansion 
room. That means if you have most of the water out of the system, with 
no pockets, you won't have damage from what's left. It's difficult or 
impossible to get the system totally dry, but it's pretty easy to get it

"dry enough".

However, it's also easy to protect the system with anti-freeze, at least

if you have a bypass valve setup on your water heater. Many folks obtain

a spare fitting for their pump's suction connection if they're using the

standard ShurFlo pump. It's then trivial to disconnect the line from the

  (drained) tank, connect a short piece of tubing, drop it into the a-f 
jug, and start pumping. Open faucets one at a time until you see "pink" 
and you're good to go.

                                   <<Jim>>

Dick Parins wrote:

> Karl wrote:
> 
>>>removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a
>>>
> short hose. That 
> 
>>>goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. 
>>>
> 
> Karl,  I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water
out of the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from the
tank.  The two advantages I can think of are washing out or diluting any
residual water in the tank and not having to disconnect and reconnect
from/to the tank.  Two reasons to do it your way might be it is
difficult to rinse the antifreeze out of the tank in the spring, or the
antifreeze can affect some types of tanks.  I would appreciate any
insights.  I am installing a new tank and this discussion may affect how
I set it up.
> 
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>




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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text

 



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 21:38:07 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


Nope, suck some through the pump if you drain all other water from the
holding tanks and water heater.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (never added antifreeze to the lines and never replaced
them from freezing)
59 Traveler
 
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 3:24 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again
 
This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you drain
and blow out all the water lines, is  it necessary to add anti-freeze?
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 21:53:14 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire


Hello All,
I spent a good part of today after the Packer Game ( GO PACK 5-1) trying
to get my neighbor's furnace to fire in her 69 Globe Trotter with no
luck. I turn it on to pilot, press, hold, open the little window and
light the match and nothing. Check the gas line to see if there is a
shut off, no shut off. Check to see if there is a wall mounted
thermostat, nothing but the AC. I don't even smell gas when I turn it on
with nothing lit ( I know not the smartest thing to do but hey, no fire,
no gas, no explosion!) I have the original paperwork for the thing but
the pictures don't really show anything about lighting it and since I
went to public school pictures would really help me now. Any
suggestions? On a positive note I did get the stove, oven, fridge and
water heater to burn on gas so the afternoon wasn't a total loss.
 
Thanks and I still have all the hair on my knuckles,
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
 



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:35:48 -0700
From: Pearl Main <pearlm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: sorry

Hi  RJ"   Am sorry the e-mail to Kathy Hunt was supposed to be off list and I
hit the wrong button.    tho I do think this bugbear thing is a problem
Pearl




------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 22:55:33 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Foreign travel-GMPARTS KIT Advertised on Airstream.net


Sorry group something misfired in my e-mail program and this got sent to
the list rather than the intended recipient.  Please disregard.
 
Kevin
 
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Kevin D Allen
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 7:32 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Foreign travel-GMPARTS KIT Advertised on Airstream.net
 
Greetings Francis!
 
I noticed your listing on the VAC classifieds.  I was wondering if the
parts are for a first generation Cadillac HEI system (1975 to 1978 500
cubic inch V8 with standard carburetion).  If the parts are for this
vintage Cadillac, I might be interested.
 
Kevin Allen
 
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 




------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 01:21:08 EDT
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: 



In a message dated 10/13/2002 4:57:36 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:


> Carlisle Hydrastar actuator
> 

Wish I knew about it! two years ago when I spent 1800 to have my vac disc 
brake system overhauled on my 79 Ambasador!!!
BTW I used the vac system on my 97 POWERSTROKE's vaccuum pump and it worked 
as it was meant to be.
My current unit ~ 74 safari has the Orig elec. brakes and they work just as 
nicely as the vac/disc system.

Cheers

AlanT



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:58:19 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Avon slide in camper.

<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
The Cayo was a class C motorhome built by Avion, very much like the Avion
camper I have advertised on the VAC site just now. There was one for sale
in Marin County, CA recently, but it was 'way overpriced, IMHO.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
Rik<br>
<br>
Chris Elliott wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:3DA4BBBE.6D03539A@xxxxxxxxxx.com">  &nbsp; Reminds
me - I saw a " motivator " built by cayo&nbsp; like the truck camper type but
mounted on a dodge van like a class 3 . The sheet metal extended to the bottom
of the chassis . I`m glad I didnt see it first when it was for sale , I`ve
got too many projects now - without taking on a dodge from the seventys !
but it sure looked neat . <br>
Chris 
  <p><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com">JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com</a> wrote: </p>
  <blockquote type="CITE">
    <center><font face="Arial"><font size="-1">I saw a Avon slide in camper
for sale here in Tampa Dont know any thing about it. kinda know the individual 
who has it for sale&nbsp; If intrested contac me off list and I wioo dig up his
phone #</font></font><br>
    <font face="Arial"><font size="-1">Jim Smith</font></font></center>
    </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    </body>
    </html>



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 00:27:26 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Optima Battery

Sorry to be replying so late... I'm 'way behind reading the list.

Pete, you mention having a new Optima battery. Is that an AGM 
deep-cycle? If it is, the charge line from your tow rig will be 
overcharging it. AGM batteries are wonderful -- I have a 12-volt 
Concorde AGM for my  UPS -- but they are definitely not compatible with 
lead-acid batteries, such as the one in your tow vehicle. AGMs must have 
a lower maximum charge voltage,  according to everything I have read 
about them. I originally got the Concorde as a house battery for my 
Argosy motorhome, but then discovered that an AGM and a lead-acid 
battery cannot be used together and charged from the same source -- the 
engine generator. The voltage difference is not much -- .2-.3 volts -- 
but apparently it's enough to make a difference to the battery.

If someone else has definitive information about the mixing of AGM and 
lead-acid batteries, I stand ready to be corrected.

Best regards,

Rik

Pete Ryner wrote:

><< ...  well as the new optima battery.  I highly recommend
>the latter!  >>
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 09:57:32 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Can't seem to get the Duo-Therm Heater to Fire

Ed,
  Look under the trailer to be certain that A/S didn't locate a shutoff 
valve there. Our '68 G.T. had the water heater shutoff under the body 
and you couldn't see it w/o bending way down.

                              <<Jim>>

Edward Emerick wrote:

> Hello All,
> 
> I spent a good part of today after the Packer Game ( GO PACK 5-1) trying 
> to get my neighbor?s furnace to fire in her 69 Globe Trotter with no 
> luck. I turn it on to pilot, press, hold, open the little window and 
> light the match and nothing. Check the gas line to see if there is a 
> shut off, no shut off. Check to see if there is a wall mounted 
> thermostat, nothing but the AC. I don?t even smell gas when I turn it on 
> with nothing lit ( I know not the smartest thing to do but hey, no fire, 
> no gas, no explosion!) I have the original paperwork for the thing but 
> the pictures don?t really show anything about lighting it and since I 
> went to public school pictures would really help me now. Any 
> suggestions? On a positive note I did get the stove, oven, fridge and 
> water heater to burn on gas so the afternoon wasn?t a total loss.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks and I still have all the hair on my knuckles,
> 
> Ed
> 
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 
> 68 Sovereign
> 
> 59 Traveler
> 
>  
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:28:50 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)

Hello again,

Well, it is done.  It was one of the worst jobs I have ever done on any of
my airstreams - except for polishing it :-(

The old big round Bowen heater was very difficult to remove.  I had to use
an air chisel to cut the vent and vent pipe off so I could lift it straight
up and out.  Every thing about it was filthy.  Rust and soot poured out, the
area around the heater had not been cleaned for 30 years.

But it is now done and I am glad I did it.  I couldn't use the old vent
guards.  The new heater did come with a door so I used it.  It looks pretty
good.  I still am going to paint the white door silver.

Unlike the old heater, it is quiet, doesn't stink of unburned propane, is
easy to light, and most of all, doesn't leak.

Thanks to all who responded to my questions.

David Reilly
Madison, Mississippi

1953 Overlander
1963 Overlander
1991 Excella 1000 34'



>
> > Hello Everyone,
> >
> > I have a 1963 Overlander with its original Bowen water heater.  The
heater
> > is leaking water from the bottom onto the floor. I check every external
> > water connection and found none leaking.  I have to unfortunately assume
> > this water heater is toast!
> >
> > For those of you who have replaced one of these, which modern heater
fits
> > best (or is easiest to install) -- A 6 gal. Suburban? or a 6 gal.
Atwood?
> Or
> > other water heater?
> >
> > Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David Reilly
> > Madison, Mississippi
> >
> > 1953 Overlander
> > 1963 Overlander
> > 1991 Excella 1000 34'
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:52:08 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery

At 12:27 AM 10/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Sorry to be replying so late... I'm 'way behind reading the list.
>
>Pete, you mention having a new Optima battery. Is that an AGM deep-cycle?


The Optima is a lead acid battery, but constructed like a roll of toilet 
paper... The standard lead acid charger should be fine, however the Optima 
likes a fairly heavy charge current...  The batteries get a lot of 
following from the folks that treat batteries badly... like the off road 
racers...

Jim 



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:47:56 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery

Hi Rik ,
   I was interested in what you had to say about AGM batterys , I have
Concords agm`s in my Caravel , I knew they charge at a lower rate than lead
acid , my solar controller is set up accordingly , but I never thought about
the charge wire from the truck . Perhaps this explains why one of my
batteries seemed to get sucked in like there was a vacuum inside - a recent
mystery for me - but it took a charge and tested ok after charging again -
It had also gone dead from my solar controller aparently giving up the ghost
- somehow I wonder if all this is somehow related to an overcharge condition
to start with .
    Still mystified , but more informed ,
Chris

Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:

> Sorry to be replying so late... I'm 'way behind reading the list.
>
> Pete, you mention having a new Optima battery. Is that an AGM
> deep-cycle? If it is, the charge line from your tow rig will be
> overcharging it. AGM batteries are wonderful -- I have a 12-volt
> Concorde AGM for my  UPS -- but they are definitely not compatible with
> lead-acid batteries, such as the one in your tow vehicle. AGMs must have
> a lower maximum charge voltage,  according to everything I have read
> about them. I originally got the Concorde as a house battery for my
> Argosy motorhome, but then discovered that an AGM and a lead-acid
> battery cannot be used together and charged from the same source -- the
> engine generator. The voltage difference is not much -- .2-.3 volts --
> but apparently it's enough to make a difference to the battery.
>
> If someone else has definitive information about the mixing of AGM and
> lead-acid batteries, I stand ready to be corrected.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:58:59 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery

The precise full charge voltage, and hence the required charging
voltage, depends on the design specific gravity (acid content) of the
electrolyte. Batteries intended for short lives, but large capacity for
their size will use a more concentrated acid (and have a higher charging
voltage) than batteries intended for long lives and deep cycles.

Over charging a lead acid battery removes water from the electrolyte. It
looks like its boiling in a cell you can inspect, but its the oxygen and
hydrogen being dissociated from the water by the excess charge. Those
gases escape from the battery (with a little acid for flavor and
corrosion of surrounding metals) in the perfect ratio for the biggest
bang when ignited. In sealed batteries with no provision for
replacement, loss of water means loss of capacity. That replacement
water should be distilled water, lime and iron and other things in
ordinary tap water can upset the battery chemistry.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:14:50 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


*IF* you can get all the water out then you can get away without using 
antifreeze. The operative word being "if". Where I live temps can get to 
-20F. Even though I thoroughly blow out the system on my '60, I look at 
the few bucks spent on antifreeze as cheep insurance against busted 
water pipes.

Scott
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList
  Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 7:24 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again


  This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you 
drain and blow out all the water lines, is  it necessary to add 
anti-freeze?
  Tom Fairbank
  1969 Tradewind 



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 13:34:02 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


Are we talking about the same anti-freeze that can poison small animals 
and even toddlers.  If so, I can't imagine putting something that toxic 
in potable water tanks and lines ???

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA 
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList
  Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 12:24 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again


  This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you 
drain and blow out all the water lines, is  it necessary to add 
anti-freeze?
  Tom Fairbank
  1969 Tradewind=20



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 13:48:01 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery

<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
I know that Optima makes AGM batteries -- the Sparrow electric car uses them
-- but perhaps they also make batteries that are not AGMs. Regarding AGMs,
this is from the Backwoods Solar Electric site: <br>
<br>
&lt;&lt; <b>SEALED BATTERIES&nbsp;</b> Gel or AGM (absorbed glass matt) types
damage easily from overcharge, and so should be used with a 3 stage charge
control. Sealed batteries can be excellent deep cycle alternative energy
batteries, cleaner and safer, but only if charging is precisely controlled.
&gt;&gt;<br>
<br>
High-quality chargers and charge controllers have one voltage setting for
lead-acid batteries, and a lower setting for sealed batteries. I have one
from West Marine with this feature.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
Rik<br>
<br>
James Clark wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:5.1.0.14.2.20021014104729.00a8b820@xxxxxxxxxx.corecomm.net">
At 12:27 AM 10/14/2002 -0700, you wrote: 
  <blockquote type="cite"><br>
    <br>
Pete, you mention having a new Optima battery. Is that an AGM deep-cycle? 
    <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <br>
The Optima is a lead acid battery, but constructed like a roll of toilet
 paper... The standard lead acid charger should be fine, however the Optima
 likes a fairly heavy charge current...&nbsp; The batteries get a lot of  following
from the folks that treat batteries badly... like the off road  racers... 
    <br>
    <br>
Jim   <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    </body>
    </html>



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:21:47 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


No. You are thinking of automotive (Ethylene Glycol) anti-freeze which 
is poisonous.   We are talking about special non-toxic anti-freeze sold 
at RV shops.  It is usually red in color.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: My Airstream
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList
  Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 3:34 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again


  Are we talking about the same anti-freeze that can poison small 
animals and even toddlers.  If so, I can't imagine putting something 
that toxic in potable water tanks and lines ???

  Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
  66 Airstream Safari
  Mira Mar Mobile Park
  Oceanside, CA 
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
    To: Multiple recipients of VACList
    Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 12:24 PM
    Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again


    This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you 
drain and blow out all the water lines, is  it necessary to add 
anti-freeze?
    Tom Fairbank
    1969 Tradewind



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 17:24:16 -0400
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


Bob:

At 01:34 PM 10/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Are we talking about the same anti-freeze that can poison small animals 
>and even toddlers.  If so, I can't imagine putting something that toxic in 
>potable water tanks and lines ???

Definitely NOT.  That's auto anti-freeze (ethylene glycol); that stuff 
NEVER goes into an RV.  What goes in an RV is a potable antifreeze, made 
with propylene glycol.  It's sold at RV stores, and is pink in color.  It 
has a taste, but it's safe to use.

- Dick
(5368)

>  "God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.

Why should you and I?"
  -Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/


------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:50:28 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery

Hi Rik and Chris,
I don't know which specific battery I have.  I'll check the next time I'm
out at the storage lot.  It is a deep cycle and it has worked great the past
couple of weeks.  I used it for 2 four-day hunting trips and it would last
all night running the heater which was on almost full time.  (cold up in the
mountains).  I just bought a honda 2000i generator which I used a couple of
hours each day to re-charge the battery with my original univolt.  The
battery came up to charge quickly and worked like a champ.  Had no problem
with the car charging either, but only ran a couple of hours there and back
each trip.  I checked on the construction on the web and it is indeed a lead
acid battery, with very thin sheets of lead wrapped like a roll of toilet
paper.  Someone else described it very well.  There were no warnings or
instructions with the battery so I am using it just like a normal lead acid
battery.  There is nothing on the optima web page describing any charging
specifics either.  Pleas let me know if there is something I don't know.
Thanks
Pete
'68 Ambassador

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
Chris Elliott
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 10:48 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Optima Battery


Hi Rik ,
   I was interested in what you had to say about AGM batterys , I have
Concords agm`s in my Caravel , I knew they charge at a lower rate than lead
acid , my solar controller is set up accordingly , but I never thought about
the charge wire from the truck . Perhaps this explains why one of my
batteries seemed to get sucked in like there was a vacuum inside - a recent
mystery for me - but it took a charge and tested ok after charging again -
It had also gone dead from my solar controller aparently giving up the ghost
- somehow I wonder if all this is somehow related to an overcharge condition
to start with .
    Still mystified , but more informed ,
Chris

Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:

> Sorry to be replying so late... I'm 'way behind reading the list.
>
> Pete, you mention having a new Optima battery. Is that an AGM
> deep-cycle? If it is, the charge line from your tow rig will be
> overcharging it. AGM batteries are wonderful -- I have a 12-volt
> Concorde AGM for my  UPS -- but they are definitely not compatible with
> lead-acid batteries, such as the one in your tow vehicle. AGMs must have
> a lower maximum charge voltage,  according to everything I have read
> about them. I originally got the Concorde as a house battery for my
> Argosy motorhome, but then discovered that an AGM and a lead-acid
> battery cannot be used together and charged from the same source -- the
> engine generator. The voltage difference is not much -- .2-.3 volts --
> but apparently it's enough to make a difference to the battery.
>
> If someone else has definitive information about the mixing of AGM and
> lead-acid batteries, I stand ready to be corrected.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>





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------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:50:27 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)

David,
I finished the same job earlier this year.  Really big job!  I thought I'd
be smart and have the new (white) door powder coated.  Tried spary paint
first and it looked terrible.  Took it to a local company who had to
sandblast all of the paint off first.  The metal was so thin they ended up
warping it something terrible.  The $50 charge was dropped and I had a nice
color waivey door.  I was able to bend most of it back to shape, and even
got it to fit.  Looks better than the white and the spray job.  Too bad we
can't get a bare aluminum door.
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
D. Reilly
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:29 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)


Hello again,

Well, it is done.  It was one of the worst jobs I have ever done on any of
my airstreams - except for polishing it :-(

The old big round Bowen heater was very difficult to remove.  I had to use
an air chisel to cut the vent and vent pipe off so I could lift it straight
up and out.  Every thing about it was filthy.  Rust and soot poured out, the
area around the heater had not been cleaned for 30 years.

But it is now done and I am glad I did it.  I couldn't use the old vent
guards.  The new heater did come with a door so I used it.  It looks pretty
good.  I still am going to paint the white door silver.

Unlike the old heater, it is quiet, doesn't stink of unburned propane, is
easy to light, and most of all, doesn't leak.

Thanks to all who responded to my questions.

David Reilly
Madison, Mississippi

1953 Overlander
1963 Overlander
1991 Excella 1000 34'



>
> > Hello Everyone,
> >
> > I have a 1963 Overlander with its original Bowen water heater.  The
heater
> > is leaking water from the bottom onto the floor. I check every external
> > water connection and found none leaking.  I have to unfortunately assume
> > this water heater is toast!
> >
> > For those of you who have replaced one of these, which modern heater
fits
> > best (or is easiest to install) -- A 6 gal. Suburban? or a 6 gal.
Atwood?
> Or
> > other water heater?
> >
> > Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David Reilly
> > Madison, Mississippi
> >
> > 1953 Overlander
> > 1963 Overlander
> > 1991 Excella 1000 34'
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>




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------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 17:27:00 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)

What about having a sheetmetal shop make one out of stainless from the
pattern of the old door.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 4:50 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)


> David,
> I finished the same job earlier this year.  Really big job!  I thought I'd
> be smart and have the new (white) door powder coated.  Tried spary paint
> first and it looked terrible.  Took it to a local company who had to
> sandblast all of the paint off first.  The metal was so thin they ended up
> warping it something terrible.  The $50 charge was dropped and I had a
nice
> color waivey door.  I was able to bend most of it back to shape, and even
> got it to fit.  Looks better than the white and the spray job.  Too bad we
> can't get a bare aluminum door.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
> D. Reilly
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:29 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
>
>
> Hello again,
>
> Well, it is done.  It was one of the worst jobs I have ever done on any of
> my airstreams - except for polishing it :-(
>
> The old big round Bowen heater was very difficult to remove.  I had to use
> an air chisel to cut the vent and vent pipe off so I could lift it
straight
> up and out.  Every thing about it was filthy.  Rust and soot poured out,
the
> area around the heater had not been cleaned for 30 years.
>
> But it is now done and I am glad I did it.  I couldn't use the old vent
> guards.  The new heater did come with a door so I used it.  It looks
pretty
> good.  I still am going to paint the white door silver.
>
> Unlike the old heater, it is quiet, doesn't stink of unburned propane, is
> easy to light, and most of all, doesn't leak.
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my questions.
>
> David Reilly
> Madison, Mississippi
>
> 1953 Overlander
> 1963 Overlander
> 1991 Excella 1000 34'
>
>
>
> >
> > > Hello Everyone,
> > >
> > > I have a 1963 Overlander with its original Bowen water heater.  The
> heater
> > > is leaking water from the bottom onto the floor. I check every
external
> > > water connection and found none leaking.  I have to unfortunately
assume
> > > this water heater is toast!
> > >
> > > For those of you who have replaced one of these, which modern heater
> fits
> > > best (or is easiest to install) -- A 6 gal. Suburban? or a 6 gal.
> Atwood?
> > Or
> > > other water heater?
> > >
> > > Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > David Reilly
> > > Madison, Mississippi
> > >
> > > 1953 Overlander
> > > 1963 Overlander
> > > 1991 Excella 1000 34'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:21:41 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again


Thanks to all for clearing up that question.  I always knew VAC listers 
had only the BEST taste :)

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA 
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dick Kenan
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList
  Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 2:24 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again


  Bob:

  At 01:34 PM 10/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:

    Are we talking about the same anti-freeze that can poison small 
animals and even toddlers.  If so, I can't imagine putting something 
that toxic in potable water tanks and lines ???

  Definitely NOT.  That's auto anti-freeze (ethylene glycol); that stuff 
NEVER goes into an RV.  What goes in an RV is a potable antifreeze, made 
with propylene glycol.  It's sold at RV stores, and is pink in color.  
It has a taste, but it's safe to use.

  - Dick
  (5368)


     "God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life =
is over.
  Why should you and I?"
   -Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
  ---------------------------------------
  Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
  Retired and loving it!
  WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
  Atlanta
  mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
  http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/




------------------------------

Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 17:49:13 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold)  Water heater -  (Update 2)

I had my new shroud made of stainless.  The old heater was wider than the
new one, so I had to have something to fill the gap.  Took some doing as it
had to bend in several directions where it wrapped around the bottom of the
trailer.  The only problem with stainless is that it isn't really the same
color as the aluminum.  In many light situations, it almost looks bronze as
it doesn't reflect the same as aluminum.  During the day, looking straight
on, it's a pretty good match.  Looking from the side, particularly later in
the day it really looks different.  Not a bad option, but I would imagine
pricey.  The shroud cost about $100.  I expect the door would be very close.
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
Don Hardman
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 4:27 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)


What about having a sheetmetal shop make one out of stainless from the
pattern of the old door.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 4:50 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)


> David,
> I finished the same job earlier this year.  Really big job!  I thought I'd
> be smart and have the new (white) door powder coated.  Tried spary paint
> first and it looked terrible.  Took it to a local company who had to
> sandblast all of the paint off first.  The metal was so thin they ended up
> warping it something terrible.  The $50 charge was dropped and I had a
nice
> color waivey door.  I was able to bend most of it back to shape, and even
> got it to fit.  Looks better than the white and the spray job.  Too bad we
> can't get a bare aluminum door.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
> D. Reilly
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:29 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: (Cold) Water heater - (Update 2)
>
>
> Hello again,
>
> Well, it is done.  It was one of the worst jobs I have ever done on any of
> my airstreams - except for polishing it :-(
>
> The old big round Bowen heater was very difficult to remove.  I had to use
> an air chisel to cut the vent and vent pipe off so I could lift it
straight
> up and out.  Every thing about it was filthy.  Rust and soot poured out,
the
> area around the heater had not been cleaned for 30 years.
>
> But it is now done and I am glad I did it.  I couldn't use the old vent
> guards.  The new heater did come with a door so I used it.  It looks
pretty
> good.  I still am going to paint the white door silver.
>
> Unlike the old heater, it is quiet, doesn't stink of unburned propane, is
> easy to light, and most of all, doesn't leak.
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my questions.
>
> David Reilly
> Madison, Mississippi
>
> 1953 Overlander
> 1963 Overlander
> 1991 Excella 1000 34'
>
>
>
> >
> > > Hello Everyone,
> > >
> > > I have a 1963 Overlander with its original Bowen water heater.  The
> heater
> > > is leaking water from the bottom onto the floor. I check every
external
> > > water connection and found none leaking.  I have to unfortunately
assume
> > > this water heater is toast!
> > >
> > > For those of you who have replaced one of these, which modern heater
> fits
> > > best (or is easiest to install) -- A 6 gal. Suburban? or a 6 gal.
> Atwood?
> > Or
> > > other water heater?
> > >
> > > Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > David Reilly
> > > Madison, Mississippi
> > >
> > > 1953 Overlander
> > > 1963 Overlander
> > > 1991 Excella 1000 34'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>




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------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #455
************************************



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