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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, October 13, 2002 Issue 454
Today's Topics:
1. brakes
2. Re: Winterizing Again
3. Re: Winterizing Again
4. Kansas
5. Re: Winterizing Again
6. Re: Kansas and Bisbee, AZ
7. Re: Winterizing Again
8. Re: Kansas
9. winterizing again
10. Re: winterizing again
11. Re: winterizing again
12. Re: Winterizing Again
13. Re: winterizing again
14. Re: brakes
15. Carlisle Hydrastar actuator
16. Re: winterizing again
17. drapes
18. Re: Kansas and Bisbee, AZ
19. Re: Winterizing Again
20. Re: Winterizing Again
21. bugbear
22. Re: Winterizing Again
23. 120v. lines in kitch
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 20:16:57 -0400
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: brakes
Were electric brakes issued on '58 model airstreams?
Thanks
Airstreams For Sale: http://photos.yahoo.com/vintageairstreams
David Turner
1105 Hancock Drive
Americus, GA 31709
Home Ph. 229-924-8488
Office Ph. 229-937-2567
Office Fx. 229-937-5691
Airstream Web site: =
http://www.shockoestudios.com/tractor/library/airstream/airstream.htm
Pedal Tractor Web site: http://www.shockoestudios.com/tractor.htm
Email: jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 22:17:05 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Phil,
I use the "drain and blow" method of winterizing:
Drain the freshwater tank
Remove the shower hose & head.
Open a faucet and run the pump until dry (you'll hear the pitch change)
Drain the water heater....
WHILE THE HEATER IS DRAINING, open the faucets, one at a time, hot,
cold, hot, cold. The slight vacuum created by the heater draining tends
to such the water out of the lines. Leave the faucets open long enough
for this to happen.
Open low-point drains if you have 'em.
Blow compressed air into the city water inlet using one of those blowout
plugs. I usually have a helper do this, hitting the Schrader valve with
short bursts of air so as to not over-pressure the system.
While he's putting the air to it, I open the faucets again, one at a
time, hot, cold, hot, cold. It might be nice to have the drain plug in
the water heater during this operation.
Run the pump again to make SURE that it's dry.
As Terry said, "wet air" is OK, water is not.
Pour a pint of RV anti-freeze in each trap. Pour just a bit in the
toilet to keep the seal moist.
It's recommended that you lube the waste tank valves with a silicone
spray or something to keep them from sticking, but I usually just leave
'em open.
Leave all faucets and drains open.
This procedure takes maybe 20-30 minutes, leaves no taste in the water
system next Spring, and will definitely prevent freeze damage if done
correctly.
Also, see http://www.phrannie.org/storeRV.html
<<Jim>>
Phil Renner wrote:
> All right, since you brought it up. This is my first winter with my
> Overlander. I did have it last winter, but the tanks and burst lines had
> long since dried up from sitting the past 10 years.
>
> Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy
> way to merely drain the system completely?
>
> Phil Renner
> Guilford, CT
> 63 Overlander
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>
>
>
>>Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
>>drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
>>removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
>>goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
>>pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
>>back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
>>cold and finally the toilet.
>>
>>It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
>>VERY cold.
>>
>>--
>>
>> - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 22:41:47 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Hi Jim,
This will be my first real year to winterize. I removed the plumbing in my
Safari and it's still virgin PEX. The Argosy is another issue. Mostly new
PEX added to what the previous owner started. I'm nervious about not
leaving antifreeze in the water pump. Is it assured that the pump will run
itself dry?
However, the critical issue is the gate valves for the holding tanks. It's
near impossible to put silicone in the valves. I might be able to spray
rust inhibitor on the slide rod (what usually rusts badly and revents
operation in the Spring).
How about just pouring some of the standard holding tank solution and
letting it lubricate the gate seals. I think I read somewhere that these
chemicals do lubricate the valves? This solution shouldn't freeze.
Don't think the antifreeze would lubricate the seals at all.
Wouldn't keeping the gates closed keep debris from hardening in the rubber
seal?
Your thoughts?
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 20:11:30 -0700
From: "Sherry Hayes" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Kansas
Hi -
Is there anyone out there from Kansas? I'm going to be leaving Bisbee, AZ
and moving to Hutchinson, KS next month. I haven't checked the Wally Byam
directory yet, but am curious to see if there are other vintage owners
anywhere close.
Thanks and Happy Trails -
Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:16:41 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
This pretty much covers it for me as well... In addition, since I work
alone in most cases, I made an adapter to go from the water inlet to the
quick connectors for the air hose.. ( with a ball valve.)... I just set the
regulator on the pump to 30-40 lb and go through the trailer blowing out
pipes... I open the water heater with the air pressure on and blow it out
as well.... The reason for the ball valve in the adapter was to give me
some extra control over when the air was on to the trailer... I can hook
everything up and have the compressor running without fighting the pressure
while trying to hook up... just saves a few steps.
Since we don't use the tank water to drink, or cook with , I am more
liberal with the RV antifreeze than some and run it through the pump and
cold water lines using a hose from Camping World until it starts coming out
of the faucets.....I don't have a bypass on the hot water tank and have not
been pumping the hot lines full of antifreeze... I have been counting on
the blow out to do the job...maybe I will get the bypass on this year and
protect everything...
After draining the holding tank into a "blue boy" and emptying it down a
sewer clean out just outside my basement wall, I dump a couple of gal into
the various traps and finish up by dumping the rest down the toilet... this
leaves some trap water and antifreeze in the tank and should keep the valve
seals wet... so far no problems but I have water back in the system within
a couple of months if we head South for the 3 coldest around here....It
will freeze in Chicago tonight and I don't have it done yet so the furnace
is on and the power hooked up in my driveway...
I am still having fun and learning every day...
Jim
At 10:17 PM 10/12/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Phil,
> I use the "drain and blow" method of winterizing:
>
>Drain the freshwater tank
>Remove the shower hose & head.
>Open a faucet and run the pump until dry (you'll hear the pitch change)
>Drain the water heater....
>WHILE THE HEATER IS DRAINING, open the faucets, one at a time, hot, cold,
>hot, cold. The slight vacuum created by the heater draining tends to such
>the water out of the lines. Leave the faucets open long enough for this to
>happen.
>Open low-point drains if you have 'em.
>Blow compressed air into the city water inlet using one of those blowout
>plugs. I usually have a helper do this, hitting the Schrader valve with
>short bursts of air so as to not over-pressure the system.
>While he's putting the air to it, I open the faucets again, one at a time,
>hot, cold, hot, cold. It might be nice to have the drain plug in the water
>heater during this operation.
>Run the pump again to make SURE that it's dry.
>As Terry said, "wet air" is OK, water is not.
>Pour a pint of RV anti-freeze in each trap. Pour just a bit in the toilet
>to keep the seal moist.
>It's recommended that you lube the waste tank valves with a silicone spray
>or something to keep them from sticking, but I usually just leave 'em open.
>Leave all faucets and drains open.
>
>This procedure takes maybe 20-30 minutes, leaves no taste in the water
>system next Spring, and will definitely prevent freeze damage if done
>correctly.
>
>Also, see http://www.phrannie.org/storeRV.html
>
> <<Jim>>
>
>
>Phil Renner wrote:
>
>>All right, since you brought it up. This is my first winter with my
>>Overlander. I did have it last winter, but the tanks and burst lines had
>>long since dried up from sitting the past 10 years.
>>Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy
>>way to merely drain the system completely?
>>Phil Renner
>>Guilford, CT
>>63 Overlander
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 4:22 PM
>>Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>>
>>
>>>Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
>>>drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
>>>removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
>>>goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
>>>pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
>>>back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
>>>cold and finally the toilet.
>>>
>>>It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
>>>VERY cold.
>>>
>>>--
>>>
>>> - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>>
>>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>
>
>--
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 00:50:20 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kansas and Bisbee, AZ
Isn't Bisbee, AZ where there is a vintage trailer park / motel?
Tom in NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherry Hayes" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 11:11 PM
Subject: [VAC] Kansas
> Hi -
>
> Is there anyone out there from Kansas? I'm going to be leaving Bisbee, AZ
> and moving to Hutchinson, KS next month. I haven't checked the Wally Byam
> directory yet, but am curious to see if there are other vintage owners
> anywhere close.
>
> Thanks and Happy Trails -
> Sherry
> '63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 00:53:04 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
It will be *FREEZING* in Chicago tonight? Oh Vey!
Tom in NC
> This pretty much covers it for me as well... In addition, since I work
> alone in most cases, I made an adapter to go from the water inlet to the
> quick connectors for the air hose.. ( with a ball valve.)... I just set
the
> regulator on the pump to 30-40 lb and go through the trailer blowing out
> pipes... I open the water heater with the air pressure on and blow it out
> as well.... The reason for the ball valve in the adapter was to give me
> some extra control over when the air was on to the trailer... I can hook
> everything up and have the compressor running without fighting the
pressure
> while trying to hook up... just saves a few steps.
>
> Since we don't use the tank water to drink, or cook with , I am more
> liberal with the RV antifreeze than some and run it through the pump and
> cold water lines using a hose from Camping World until it starts coming
out
> of the faucets.....I don't have a bypass on the hot water tank and have
not
> been pumping the hot lines full of antifreeze... I have been counting on
> the blow out to do the job...maybe I will get the bypass on this year and
> protect everything...
>
> After draining the holding tank into a "blue boy" and emptying it down a
> sewer clean out just outside my basement wall, I dump a couple of gal into
> the various traps and finish up by dumping the rest down the toilet...
this
> leaves some trap water and antifreeze in the tank and should keep the
valve
> seals wet... so far no problems but I have water back in the system within
> a couple of months if we head South for the 3 coldest around here....It
> will freeze in Chicago tonight and I don't have it done yet so the furnace
> is on and the power hooked up in my driveway...
>
> I am still having fun and learning every day...
>
> Jim
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 02:01:00 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Kansas
Greetings Sherry!
You are moving to one of my favorite cities. I taught school in Kansas
from 1985 to 1993, and Hutchinson was one of my favorite cities. You
will really love the Kansas State Fair that calls Hutchinson home. I
believe that you will find that there is a WBCCI Unit in Wichita - - I
am going by memory here as my WBCCI directory is among the missing. I
do know that there have been several trailers parked in the VAC area
with Kansas plates on them each of the last three years.
Just a note, be prepared for expensive car and RV registration in
Kansas. I don't know about cost in AZ, but there was multiplication
factor of nearly 5 times between my Illinois registration and Kansas
registration. When I left Kansas, my car ran about $435.00 per year
compared to $78.00 per year in Illinois - - my trailer was nearly
$200.00 per year and in Illinois $24.00 per year.
Good luck with your move to the Sunflower State!
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Sherry Hayes
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 9:12 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Kansas
Hi -
Is there anyone out there from Kansas? I'm going to be leaving Bisbee,
AZ
and moving to Hutchinson, KS next month. I haven't checked the Wally
Byam
directory yet, but am curious to see if there are other vintage owners
anywhere close.
Thanks and Happy Trails -
Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 09:08:25 -0500
From: "Dick Parins" <2867@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: winterizing again
Karl wrote:
> > removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a
short hose. That
> > goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze.
Karl, I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water out of the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from the tank. The two advantages I can think of are washing out or diluting any residual water in the tank and not having
Dick
'62 Bambi
--
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------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 10:18:55 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: winterizing again
At 09:08 AM 10/13/2002 -0500, Dick wrote:
>Karl, I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water out of
>the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from the tank.
The main reason you dont pour RV antifreeze in your water tank is that if
you do that, it will take FOREVER to get the taste of the antifreeze out of
your system.
It's bad enough just getting it out of the plumbing :-)
On that note, I have seen stuff in the RV parts catalogs that claim to
remove the taste of RV antifreeze. has anyone used this stuff. If so, did
it work?
Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 07:46:14 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: winterizing again
Taste is a big issue, and so is mold growth. The RV antifreeze, is the
presence of oxygen (airspace in your water tank), creates some nasty
stuff.
My personal opinion is drain it well & leave it. The RV antifreeze does
leave some taste and effervescence in the system that takes awhile to
get free of. Use up the antifreeze in the P traps.
http://www.airstream.org/faqs.html#plumbing
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
On Sunday, October 13, 2002, at 07:18 AM, Dave Lowrey wrote:
> At 09:08 AM 10/13/2002 -0500, Dick wrote:
>
>> Karl, I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water
>> out of the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from
>> the tank.
>
> The main reason you dont pour RV antifreeze in your water tank is that
> if you do that, it will take FOREVER to get the taste of the antifreeze
> out of your system.
>
> It's bad enough just getting it out of the plumbing :-)
>
> On that note, I have seen stuff in the RV parts catalogs that claim to
> remove the taste of RV antifreeze. has anyone used this stuff. If so,
> did it work?
>
> Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 12:06:18 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Joy,
If you run the pump so it goes "dry", the remaining water won't hurt
anything. It'll be just droplets.
They sell a 'valve lubricant' compound that you pour into your tanks,
that might be a good idea. You're probably correct about leaving them
closed, and I think that's what I've been doing, but don't remember
off-hand. If I just leave things as they usually are when our trailer is
sitting here, the black valve would be closed and the gray walve would
be open.
<<Jim>>
Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> This will be my first real year to winterize. I removed the plumbing in my
> Safari and it's still virgin PEX. The Argosy is another issue. Mostly new
> PEX added to what the previous owner started. I'm nervious about not
> leaving antifreeze in the water pump. Is it assured that the pump will run
> itself dry?
>
> However, the critical issue is the gate valves for the holding tanks. It's
> near impossible to put silicone in the valves. I might be able to spray
> rust inhibitor on the slide rod (what usually rusts badly and revents
> operation in the Spring).
>
> How about just pouring some of the standard holding tank solution and
> letting it lubricate the gate seals. I think I read somewhere that these
> chemicals do lubricate the valves? This solution shouldn't freeze.
>
> Don't think the antifreeze would lubricate the seals at all.
>
> Wouldn't keeping the gates closed keep debris from hardening in the rubber
> seal?
>
> Your thoughts?
>
> Regards, Joy
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 12:16:40 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: winterizing again
Dick,
The antifreeze can leave a bad taste in your water system if you pour
it into the tank. After draining, the little bit of water that is left
in the tank is harmless when it freezes.
It's important to remember that frozen water in your lines, pump, or
whereever isn't the issue. What's important is that there's expansion
room. That means if you have most of the water out of the system, with
no pockets, you won't have damage from what's left. It's difficult or
impossible to get the system totally dry, but it's pretty easy to get it
"dry enough".
However, it's also easy to protect the system with anti-freeze, at least
if you have a bypass valve setup on your water heater. Many folks obtain
a spare fitting for their pump's suction connection if they're using the
standard ShurFlo pump. It's then trivial to disconnect the line from the
(drained) tank, connect a short piece of tubing, drop it into the a-f
jug, and start pumping. Open faucets one at a time until you see "pink"
and you're good to go.
<<Jim>>
Dick Parins wrote:
> Karl wrote:
>
>>>removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a
>>>
> short hose. That
>
>>>goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze.
>>>
>
> Karl, I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water out of the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from the tank. The two advantages I can think of are washing out or diluting any residual water in the tank and not havi>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 09:27:58 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: brakes
Yep, Kelsey-Hayes 10". Hydraulic Brakes were a $10.00 more option.
RJ
vintageairstream.com
On Saturday, October 12, 2002, at 05:16 PM, David Turner wrote:
> Were electric brakes issued on '58 model airstreams?
> Thanks
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 09:01:34 -0700
From: Gary HEEBNER <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Carlisle Hydrastar actuator
Hi again to all. Well I've done it--I took the plunge and drove to Alberta
to buy a 77 Sovereign 31. Pretty good shape (the fix-up questions will come
in the spring!). I just wanted to report that the trailer had the
vac-hydraulic disc brakes and I've got a Powerstroke, so a change had to be
made. I bought the Hydrastar actuator ($999CAD/$630US) at home and took it
with me--the seller works in the oil patch on instrumentation, so was adept
at doing the change-over in an early snowstorm at 20 degrees (F). I stood
there and shivered! The brake controller is the Jordan 2020. I was very
worried about trying to bring all of these components together in a workable
system while 500 miles from home in crappy weather. It only took a few
hours and some fancy bends with the brake line tubing, and the system was
ready. WOW! It works great! Very smooth and powerful, especially nice
while in the Rockies. I've never towed anything except my boat (3300lbs,
without brakes), and this thing towed like I had nothing behind the truck
(had to work to keep the speed under 80mph)! If anyone with hydraulics is
contemplating using the electric-hydraulic system instead of vacuum, e-mail
me off-line and I'll give you more detail.
Thanks for your advice last week!
Gary Heebner
Prince George, BC
nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 13:00:42 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: winterizing again
Dick, it takes more antifreeze if it's poured in the fresh water tank
because most tanks do not drain completely. That leaves some old antifreeze
in the tank that requires a lot of flushing out in the spring. Some think it
affects the taste of the water.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Parins" <2867@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 10:08
Subject: [VAC] winterizing again
> Karl wrote:
> > > removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a
> short hose. That
> > > goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze.
>
> Karl, I'm wondering why you don't just pump or drain all the water out of
the fresh water tank then pour in RV antifreeze and pump from the tank. The
two advantages I can think of are washing out or diluting any residual water
in the tank and not having to disconnect and reconnect from/to the tank.
Two reasons to do it your way might be it is difficult to rinse the
antifreeze out of the tank in the spring, or the antifreeze can affect some
types of tanks. I would appreciate any insights. I am installing a new
tank and this discussion may affect how I set it up.
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
> --
> __________________________________________________________
> Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com
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>
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 14:29:03 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: drapes
on 10/13/02 10:41 AM, savh_steve@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> The window drapes on my recently purchased Excello are stained on the
> liner that is close to the windows. Looks to me that the brown stains
> (seen from the outside) may be from condensation while sitting up. I
> was thinking of soaking in OxiClean overnight, but thought some of
> you may have a better suggestion.
>
> Are there any "don'ts" in cleaning the drapes that I should avoid?
>
> Thanks for your expertese!!
>
> Steve in Savannah
Hey Steve,
Why don't you ask Arlene Fowler of Fowler Interiors? She knows all about
those details and has shared them at WBCCI seminars. You may rattle her cage
at fowlerinteriors@xxxxxxxxxx.net. If your drapes don't clean up to your
satisfaction, you could ask her to make up some new ones for you. She'd mail
them to you or you could go to her place with your Airstream and she'd do it
on the spot. She has water, electric and grey water hookups available for
customers.
Good luck,
Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 12:07:42 -0700
From: "Sherry Hayes" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Kansas and Bisbee, AZ
Tom asked -
> Isn't Bisbee, AZ where there is a vintage trailer park / motel?
Hi Tom,
Bisbee is the place you're thinking of. Check it out at
http://www.theshadydell.com/.
Happy Trails - Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 15:24:20 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you drain and
blow out all the water lines, is it necessary to add anti-freeze?
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:14:40 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Tom,
It is not necessary to use anti-freeze in the water lines if you do a
thorough job of draining and blowing. Do use some in the traps and a bit
in the toilet to keep the seal moist.
<<Jim>>
Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> This is my first year to winterize also and I am wondering, if you drain
> and blow out all the water lines, is it necessary to add anti-freeze?
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 16:16:08 -0700
From: Pearl Main <pearlm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: bugbear
Kathy Hunt
Hi Kathy: My Norton anti virus 2002 has caught up with bugbear several times
in the last couple of weeks and put those messages in quarantine;;. I also
was getting some very strange messages that were from addresses not available
but not directed to anyone; but talking about doctors appointments, dinners
out from names I never heard of. My server couldn't trace them either.
Today is warmer we have been having very strange weather for Sept normally
almost the hottest month of the year and we were in the 60/70's kon the news
they talked about El Nino and this possibly being a very cold winter. are
you going to Yuma? I hope to go to Glamis over Thanksgiving this gang
does not park at Glamis but at Gecko campground where there is not quite as much
dirt in the air asll depends of if toe stub is completely healed since i
don't dare get sand in it. My daughter and husband are arriving here on
11/12 for a few days and then heading over to Mesa but will be back out here
for a couple of weeks in January. guess all those 15 year old's with time on
their hands have to come up with some problems for other computer owners.
Parl in SoCal .
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:23:05 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Thanks Jim.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 18:31:54 -0500
From: "Todd McDonald" <tod47d@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 120v. lines in kitch
GOod call- 67 Safari 22' The wires i found appear to be unrelated to those
sockets as the sockets didn't test pos. continuity. I looked in the manual
and reckon maybe the previous link in the chain is a receptacle near the
door. Although this may not be related as directly as I may have hoped if
the line goes down the cieling and drops tentacles to each outlet
separatly.thanx tod47d
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