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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, October 11, 2002 Issue 452
Today's Topics:
1. Re: brakes & LEDs
2. Re: solar treatise
3. Re: brakes & LEDs
4. Re: solar treatise
5. Re: Airstream Axle replacement.
6. Re: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
7. Possible infection
8. Re: Possible infection
9. Re: Jordan controller
10. Re: Winterizing Again
11. Roof Leaks, Replacement Burner
12. Re: Winterizing Again
13. winterizing
14. Re: Winterizing Again
15. New E Mail address
16. Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
17. deadbolt size
18. Re: deadbolt size
19. Re: Winterizing Again
20. Re: Air Tanks (was- Winterizing Again)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:17:56 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: brakes & LEDs
oo oo Can we get a picture of this ?
Daisy ( the LED queen )
frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com wrote:
>
> A Girl and her Airstream:
>
> 1.) To hell with the old brakes -- new loaded Dexter loaded plates now
> installed on both sides. As a side note, the nut extractors (fluted tool
> from Sears that grabs into nut head) saved the day. I used it on nearly
> every single nut (despite Kroil, heat, you name it). One of the best damn
> twenty bucks I've spent.
>
> 2.) The new Doran LED taillights are GORGEOUS. Totally flow with the lines
> of the rig. Since I didn't want to bolt directly into the skin, I fabbed an
> aluminum plate to rivet through existing holes (through putty tape), with SS
> bolts that pass through closed foam gasket to nut on light. Works like a
> champ, looks great.
>
> Now for that Equalizer hitch that Dunmeyer was talking about ...
>
> Fran
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:27:12 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: solar treatise
Wow, thanks ! great explanation.
I have just about total coverage with LED's at this point, so my amp
hours will be pretty tiny. I wonder if there is a water pump that draws
less. I have been thinking about a hand pump like they use on boats. I
watch TV on my lap top, which runs off 12v.
Looking into alternates to cigar plugs.
Thanks again,
Daisy
Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
> Daisy Welch wrote:
>
> > We anxiously await this treatise !
> > don't be shy.
> >
>
> Daisy,
> Here goes:
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:43:52 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: brakes & LEDs
Daisy,
I'd like to see it also. I put LED taillights on our Avion; they need
about 1.5" behind the face, but the existing bezels provided that. All I
had to do was fab adaptor plates. My lights came from NAPA, but were
$95.00/each.
While at the Escapade, I bought LED clearance lights to replace the old
ones. Some of 'em don't work, so I decided to not mess around. Gonna
mount 'em with Riv-Nuts; I just ordered some from JC Whitney. My
existing tool should 'set' them OK. Will also use SS machine screws and
shake-proof washers.
<<Jim>>
Daisy Welch wrote:
> oo oo Can we get a picture of this ?
>
> Daisy ( the LED queen )
>
> frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com wrote:
>
>>A Girl and her Airstream:
>>
>>1.) To hell with the old brakes -- new loaded Dexter loaded plates now
>>installed on both sides. As a side note, the nut extractors (fluted tool
>>from Sears that grabs into nut head) saved the day. I used it on nearly
>>every single nut (despite Kroil, heat, you name it). One of the best damn
>>twenty bucks I've spent.
>>
>>2.) The new Doran LED taillights are GORGEOUS. Totally flow with the lines
>>of the rig. Since I didn't want to bolt directly into the skin, I fabbed an
>>aluminum plate to rivet through existing holes (through putty tape), with SS
>>bolts that pass through closed foam gasket to nut on light. Works like a
>>champ, looks great.
>>
>>Now for that Equalizer hitch that Dunmeyer was talking about ...
>>
>>Fran
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:54:49 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: solar treatise
Daisy,
Bill & Jan Moeller mentioned in one of their books the 12VDC plugs
that they use. Don't remember what they were, sorry.
The pump isn't a problem, as it runs so little. I'd bet that ours
doesn't run for 10 minutes/day. We tend to use about 15 gallons of
water/day and I think the pump is supposed to deliver 2 GPM, so that's
only 7.5 minutes. That equates to less than one AH/day. As I said in my
treatise, the pilot light draws 100+ milliamps, so it uses 2.4 AH/day
all by itself. I probably should change that to an LED, which would draw
about 20 ma, equalling about 1/2 AH/day, but we really have plenty of
extra juice available. The eMeter itself draws nearly 200 ma when it's
"awake", 100 ma when the display is dark. Dunno what the TV amplifier
pulls, probably less than 100 ma. It DOES all add up!
FWIW: we have a 300-watt inverter that would draw 30 amps at full load.
It pulls about 2 or 4 amps when running her computer. (I forget anymore)
I forgot one other number in my thoughts on using solar power for a
whole-house application: That 10 KWHR that our trailer system provides
in a month costs me less than a dollar to buy at home. Shows just how
frugal the trailer is, compared to the house, and we're really fairly
good there.
<<Jim>>
Daisy Welch wrote:
> Wow, thanks ! great explanation.
>
> I have just about total coverage with LED's at this point, so my amp
> hours will be pretty tiny. I wonder if there is a water pump that draws
> less. I have been thinking about a hand pump like they use on boats. I
> watch TV on my lap top, which runs off 12v.
>
> Looking into alternates to cigar plugs.
>
> Thanks again,
> Daisy
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:50:30 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Airstream Axle replacement.
I am also interested in this. Please include me in the off-list discussion.
Thanks.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 22:02:31 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Thanks Kevin, I should have known that you would have the resources.
Hope the Caddie is learning to tow!
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Kevin D. Allen
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 9:21 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Greetings Ed!
McKesh mirrors are still available new, and are very similar to those
that would have been available in the 1970s. I have a set for my
Cadillac, and have purchased a set for my Suburban as well. Thier web
site is:
http://www.hensleyarrow.com/mckeshmirrors.html
In my experience, they are less likely to damage the paint than the less
expensive clamp-on chrome plated steel mirrors of the 1970s. I have
also seen the older style chrome plated steel clamp-on mirrors at
Kampers Supply in Carterville, IL. Thier web site is:
http://www.kamperssupply.com/
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar In
Training)
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Emerick <mailto:EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: Multiple <mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net> recipients of VACList
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 9:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Hello All,
Do any of you have lying around in the basement or garage a set of those
mirrors that attach to the front fenders of your car or truck that you
want to sell? You know the kind, big, silver with long arms that
attached with a clamp or strap. I remember my dad used a set on our old
Checker when he pulled the SOB we owned and that would seem to fit my
needs. If you do and want to get them out of your way, drop me a line
off list and I'll be glad to take them off your hands!
Thanks and see you down the road (behind me with those big old mirrors)
Ed
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
75 IHC Travelall
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:57:03 -0400
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Possible infection
I just got a message with the Bugbear virus (the latest gift from
the world of internet villains) in it. NAV caught it, and the "apparently
to" list - a long one - included many names from this or the A/S
list. Whoever is infected probably doesn't know about it, and is unaware
that his machine is sending these messages out. It would be a good idea to
scan your machine now, after making sure that your anti-virus program is
still working properly.
- Dick
(5368)
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 06:56:09 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Possible infection
No problem so far, running Linux...
Dick Kenan wrote:
> It would be a good idea to scan your machine now, after making sure
> that your anti-virus program is still working properly.
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:36:06 -0500
From: Rick Davis <k8doc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Jordan controller
At 04:42 PM 10/10/02 -0400, you wrote:
Joy,
A well thought out reply
>Hi Rick,
>
>Before you talk about the disadvantages of inertia controller, please accept
>that all controllers are not equal. You should study the Prodigy before
>including it with the rest.
The Prodigy is a new product which works on newer principals. I have not
used it and did not intend to lump it in with the controllers in common use.
My experience is with the old Tekonsha model 12, and the current sentinel
model.
Both of these suffer from the shortcomings covered. This is not to say they
don't work, simply there are better options.
>
>I'm quite new to towing and chose both a Hensley hitch and the Prodigy brake
>controller to limit my risks.
>
>So, I'll reply to each of the disadvantages as I learned from the Prodigy
>video and the manual. My previous controller was a Voyager, so I also
>understand how it functions.
>
>> 1 Easily adjustable and not affected by mounting angle or whether you are
>> going up or down hill.
>
>The Prodigy adjusts itself for changes in angle. The braking does not
>change with up or down hill situations. It's simple to setup the first time
>and any adjustment is very easy. I know that you understand that the
>trailer brakes work differently when cold and hot. It's simple to change
>the aggressiveness of the Prodigy to accommodate this situation. Don't
>think you are so lucky with the wire adjustment.
Truthfully, I have not noticed a significant difference between cold and
hot and pull about a hundred trailers per year. I have noticed brakes will
be grabby after the trailer has not been in daily use.
>
>> 2 Meters the brake current. When full on the typical magnet pulls about 3
>> amps so when hooking onto a trailer you can quickly tell by the current
>if
>> all the brakes are there.
>
>An obvious advantage not on the Prodigy. Only the voltage is indicated on
>the Prodigy.
>>
>> 3 Works in reverse. Pendulum controllers must be actuated manually.
>
>Definitely not, as the Prodigy works equally in forward or reverse. There
>is an over ride to deactivate the reverse braking for some situations.
Why would you want to deactivate the braking in reverse??
>
>> 4 Will still function from the brake pedal in case of a complete brake
>
>Certainly something from "far scapes". The front and rear brakes have
>separate hydraulic systems, just in case. Please explain how this could
>happen. Besides, what's the problem with manual braking? There will always
>be times when this is preferrible.
Not likely to have a complete failure, however a partial failure will
result in decreased braking, thus decreased deceleration and decreased
braking from the pendulum controller.
There is nothing at all wrong with manual activation, except for
remembering to do it in a panic situation. There are situations where it
is the best way to go.
>
>It's senseless to try to compare controller unless you've studied the
>operation. Generalizations are not good advice that might sway newbees
>(like me) to one or another controller. Certainly your critique of older
>inertia controllers is valid.
>
>Please consider that the Prodigy is a new breed. Give it the credit that
>the engineers designed into it.
None of my comments were aimed at the prodigy which is, as mentioned as
newer technology. I do think the generalization about the bulk of inertia
controllers is valid.
>
>
Rick
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:54:11 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
All right, since you brought it up. This is my first winter with my
Overlander. I did have it last winter, but the tanks and burst lines had
long since dried up from sitting the past 10 years.
Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy
way to merely drain the system completely?
Phil Renner
Guilford, CT
63 Overlander
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>
> Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
> drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
> removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
> goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
> pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
> back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
> cold and finally the toilet.
>
> It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
> VERY cold.
>
> --
>
> - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:50:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Anthony <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Roof Leaks, Replacement Burner
Hi all,
It's been a little while since I've chimed in... been
lurking for a while.
1) I need to find a replacement burner (black iron
piece) for a Princess stove from a '57 Caravanner.
Any ideas?
2) I took my trailer to South Jersey RV to get a few
things done quickly. While there, Ron showed me that
my trailer probably rolled at some point in it's life.
The streetside windows have been replaced with non-AS
windows, and leak. I've got them 97% sealed, but just
discovered a new roof leak last night. I'm considering
ordering some of this stuff called A-Seal
http://www.eternabond.com/compare.htm
Again, any opinions? My seams are already gunked up
where a previous owner painted a chinking style
sealant that is now old and cracking. It's a rough
looking beast on the outside, but inside it's charming
and we still love it.... maybe just a little A-Seal on
top....?
Regards,
Scott
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:26:16 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Draining. In the original plumbing arrangement there were drain valves
at the low spots that along with some judicious tilting of the trailer
with the tongue jack, you could drain all the water lines. After repairs
that may not be true. Lines may not be so nicely arranged.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 11:37:31 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: winterizing
on 10/11/02 9:54 AM, phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy way
> to merely drain the system completely?
>
Phil,
When I winterize, I not only drain the system, I tilt the Airstream so the
drain outlet is the lowest point (duhh), drain the water tank after I've
tilted the Airstream so the faucet is the lowest point (duhh) and then, I
bring my handy dandy air pressure tank out to the trailer, hook up the
adapter to the water inlet line, open one faucet, give it a healthy shot of
air, close that faucet, open another facucet, give it a shot of air, etc.,
etc. until all faucets have had their shot of air and no more water comes
out of any faucet or hose. A spritz of wet air is okay.
For me, that is a trustworthy way to merely drain the system completely.
But that's not all I do. Once draining is done, I open all the faucets and
give it one final whoosh of compressed air (empty my air tank). Then and
only then, do I close up everything and introduce the pink antifreeze.
Sometimes I use a lot of antifreeze (when priced at $1.50 a gallon) and
other times I use less (when priced at $3.69 a gallon). This year, True
Value hardware is selling it for $1.89 a gallon here in Albany, NY so I
bought a lot of it.
After pouring the antifreeze into my water tank, I ran the pump to
distribute it to all the lines and the hot water tank (no bypass valves on
my '67 22'). During the process of pumping and opening each faucet, all the
drains are filled with antifreeze. I use the hose for the toilet to put
antifreeze in the holding tank.
Last steps are to (1) open the valve directly behind my inlet connection and
let antifreeze flow back into that line and out onto the ground so I know
it's protected and (2) open the water tank drain valve to flood it and the
valve. Then, close both valves tightly.
Granted, this amounts to overkill, but I have yet to have a leak in any of
my Airstreams the next Spring. With one trailer, I used the pump to suck
antifreeze out of the gallon jug and distribute it to all water lines. My
Rube Goldberg set of hoses did the job, but I wanted a simpler method.
Forty years ago when I knew everything and no one could tell me anything, I
used windshield wiper fluid in the drains. I don't do that anymore. The
alcohol isn't good for rubber gaskets.
Have fun with winterizing. The first hard frost in our part of the country
has already occurred north of Albany, NY. The WX man on TV shows the
record lows every night. We could have 20 degrees any night now, but
probably won't until mid November.
Don't forget to bring in the big Tamarack level on the front of your
trailer. That's not alcohol in it,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:40:06 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
I would try blowing out the lines with compressed air. Get a Schrader valve
that screws onto your hose connection on the trailer (available at any
camping supply store) then blow out the water being careful not to let too
much pressure build up at once in the water lines. You could blow apart
hose fittings inside the trailer if you aren't careful.
I bought one of those $100 2HP 3 gal compressors from an outfit like Harbor
Freight. It has more than paid for itself in just blowing up various tires.
Hope this helps
David Reilly
Madison, MS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 8:54 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Winterizing Again
> All right, since you brought it up. This is my first winter with my
> Overlander. I did have it last winter, but the tanks and burst lines had
> long since dried up from sitting the past 10 years.
>
> Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy
> way to merely drain the system completely?
>
> Phil Renner
> Guilford, CT
> 63 Overlander
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>
>
> >
> > Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
> > drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
> > removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
> > goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
> > pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
> > back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
> > cold and finally the toilet.
> >
> > It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
> > VERY cold.
> >
> > --
> >
> > - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:49:04 -0500
From: "Joe Richards" <auctions@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: New E Mail address
We are in the process of changing our E Mail address. It will begin with
my ham call which is w5isk. Do not E Mail us until you receive an E Mail
giving you our full E Mail address . Thanks Joe and Jean Richards
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 18:27:51 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
I ended up cutting a piece or two of the bed support out in order to pull
out my old water heater. I inserted the pieces back in with angle support
things that install with screws. That was 3 years ago and so far all is
still good and sturdy.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> (Now I just have to figure out how to remove the old water heater without
> taking apart the bed structure and removing the galvanized water tank.)
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:27:25 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: deadbolt size
Hi all,
I'm wanting information about deadbolts before I buy one for my 59 Traveler.
I've seen Daisy's installation- very neat job. But I though I heard of a
smaller one after Daisy installed hers.
I see one by Valterra and one by ACAR industries.
I'm hoping to find a smaller than regular door sized one.
Please advise.
Thank you.
Cindy
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:03:51 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: deadbolt size
Greetings Cindy!
I recently had a new deadbolt installed in my '64 Overlander at Ace Fogdall
RV in Cedar Falls, IA (Iowa's Airstream Dealer). It is a much more compact
unit than most I have seen, and it was a near exact replacement of the
original - - a bit taller than the original so the door hold-open catch may
need some modification.
You might try calling them and asking for Florence in the Parts Department.
If you tell her that you are looking for a deadbolt like they installed in
my trailer, I am sure that she will be able to advise you on cost and
availability. I also had a matching knobset installed at the same time. I
am not certain of the part cost as I only remember the total bill which was
in the neighborhood of $200.00 for both locks and installation as well as
some adjustment to the door hinges.
Ace Fogdall RV can be contacted:
Ace Fogdall RV
5424 University Ave.
Cedar Falls, Iowa 50613
1-888-212-1622
acefogdallrv@xxxxxxxxxx.net
----- Original Message -----
From: C Hale <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: [VAC] deadbolt size
> Hi all,
> I'm wanting information about deadbolts before I buy one for my 59
Traveler.
> I've seen Daisy's installation- very neat job. But I though I heard of a
> smaller one after Daisy installed hers.
> I see one by Valterra and one by ACAR industries.
> I'm hoping to find a smaller than regular door sized one.
> Please advise.
> Thank you.
> Cindy
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:18:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Yes there is Phil if you own or can borrow a good air compressor with at
least a 3 gallon tank.
On Fri, 11 Oct 2002, Phil Renner wrote:
> All right, since you brought it up. This is my first winter with my
> Overlander. I did have it last winter, but the tanks and burst lines had
> long since dried up from sitting the past 10 years.
>
> Aside from introducing anti-freeze into the system, is there a trustworthy
> way to merely drain the system completely?
>
> Phil Renner
> Guilford, CT
> 63 Overlander
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>
>
> >
> > Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
> > drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
> > removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
> > goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
> > pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
> > back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
> > cold and finally the toilet.
> >
> > It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
> > VERY cold.
> >
> > --
> >
> > - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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--
- Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 18:47:58 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Air Tanks (was- Winterizing Again)
Karl F. Larsen wrote:
>Yes there is Phil if you own or can borrow a good air compressor with at
>least a 3 gallon tank.
Just a side note- if anyone is just buying new LP tanks to
replace their old, pre OPD ones, it is trivial to turn the old tanks
in to a great air tank- which can make a tankless compressor serve
intermittent duty for tools and stuff requiring a greater volume of
air.
FWIW...
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #452
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