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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, October 10, 2002 Issue 451
Today's Topics:
1. Sloar, was Equalizer
2. In need of a hitch....
3. Re: Sloar, was Equalizer
4. Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
5. Painting of an Airstream
6. Re: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
7. Re: In need of a hitch....
8. Re: In need of a hitch....
9. Re: In need of a hitch....
10. brakes & LEDs
11. Re: Sloar, was Equalizer
12. Re: brakes & LEDs
13. Jordan controller
14. power plug receptacle
15. More brakes and LEDs
16. Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
17. Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
18. Black water tank structural photos
19. Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
20. Winterizing Again
21. Re: Jordan controller
22. Airstream Axle replacement.
23. Re: Winterizing Again
24. Re: Jordan controller
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:37:20 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Sloar, was Equalizer
Chris,
I think the SB 2000 has an accurate volt/ammeter in it, but not the
Amp-Hour function of the eMeter. (which also contains a volt/ammeter, of
course)
One of these days, I'm gonna write a treatise on solar power. Was
chatting with different folks at the recent Escapade and have decided
that more folks don't have solar because they simply don't understand
everything about it, and many who DO have solar equipment aren't getting
the most from it because of the same lack of understanding. The latter
seem to be of the "overkill" persuasion, as they have lots and lots of
panels (read: lots & lots of $$$), yet some are still running out of
power. Others don't run out of power, but have overspent in the $$$
department.
<<Jim>>
Chris Elliott wrote:
>
> Not slanderizing solar boost 2000e , it just broke I guess , has been good for two
> years now . Might have something to do with the battery going bad first ?, one was all
> misshapen - like a vacuum was inside . The controller has an emeter built in so you can
> keep eye on charge , I just was`nt paying attention - Busy around here this year .
> The solar boost is like another panel practically what with the extra amps they put
> out - much better than a trace or others , so its said . I`ll be replacing it with another
> . Also working on another trailer off and on , and dreaming up another solar array for it
> when the time comes , maybe with my solar awning idea this time - but its gonna be awhile
> at this pace . Time and money ....
> Chris
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:33:11 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: In need of a hitch....
Hi, VACers
Well we're finally making preparations for the big transition from
full-time docked to full-time "Workampers". We're pretty excited about
it! Just a minor problem, we really need one of those "Equal-i-zer"
hitches! We would like to buy a used one from somebody or a new one at a
"fair price". I went on ebay last night and didn't see one. Then I went
to the "Equal-i-zer" web site and was blown away at the "price tag".
I'll probably end up paying the big bucks for one anyway but you can't
blame a guy for trying.
Jeff & Daile
Full-Timers
'77 A/S Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 22:19:52 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Sloar, was Equalizer
We anxiously await this treatise !
don't be shy.
Daisy
Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
> Chris,
> I think the SB 2000 has an accurate volt/ammeter in it, but not the
> Amp-Hour function of the eMeter. (which also contains a volt/ammeter, of
> course)
>
> One of these days, I'm gonna write a treatise on solar power. Was
> chatting with different folks at the recent Escapade and have decided
> that more folks don't have solar because they simply don't understand
> everything about it, and many who DO have solar equipment aren't getting
> the most from it because of the same lack of understanding. The latter
> seem to be of the "overkill" persuasion, as they have lots and lots of
> panels (read: lots & lots of $$$), yet some are still running out of
> power. Others don't run out of power, but have overspent in the $$$
> department.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> Chris Elliott wrote:
>
> >
> > Not slanderizing solar boost 2000e , it just broke I guess , has been good for two
> > years now . Might have something to do with the battery going bad first ?, one was all
> > misshapen - like a vacuum was inside . The controller has an emeter built in so you can
> > keep eye on charge , I just was`nt paying attention - Busy around here this year .
> > The solar boost is like another panel practically what with the extra amps they put
> > out - much better than a trace or others , so its said . I`ll be replacing it with another
> > . Also working on another trailer off and on , and dreaming up another solar array for it
> > when the time comes , maybe with my solar awning idea this time - but its gonna be awhile
> > at this pace . Time and money ....
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 22:07:31 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Hello All,
Do any of you have lying around in the basement or garage a set of those
mirrors that attach to the front fenders of your car or truck that you
want to sell? You know the kind, big, silver with long arms that
attached with a clamp or strap. I remember my dad used a set on our old
Checker when he pulled the SOB we owned and that would seem to fit my
needs. If you do and want to get them out of your way, drop me a line
off list and I'll be glad to take them off your hands!
Thanks and see you down the road (behind me with those big old mirrors)
Ed
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
75 IHC Travelall
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 02:00:31 EDT
From: ThreePeaksRanch@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Painting of an Airstream
In a message dated 10/9/2002 4:55:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:
> The owner traded it in on a new model, so I guess Joe Pershing will have it
> for sale, or maybe salvage.
Just DO NOT PAINT THE AIRSTEAM...Ugh.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 08:20:43 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Greetings Ed!
McKesh mirrors are still available new, and are very similar to those
that would have been available in the 1970s. I have a set for my
Cadillac, and have purchased a set for my Suburban as well. Thier web
site is:
http://www.hensleyarrow.com/mckeshmirrors.html
In my experience, they are less likely to damage the paint than the less
expensive clamp-on chrome plated steel mirrors of the 1970s. I have
also seen the older style chrome plated steel clamp-on mirrors at
Kampers Supply in Carterville, IL. Thier web site is:
http://www.kamperssupply.com/
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar In
Training)
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Emerick=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 9:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Mirrors for the 75 Travelall
Hello All,
Do any of you have lying around in the basement or garage a set of
those mirrors that attach to the front fenders of your car or truck that
you want to sell? You know the kind, big, silver with long arms that
attached with a clamp or strap. I remember my dad used a set on our old
Checker when he pulled the SOB we owned and that would seem to fit my
needs. If you do and want to get them out of your way, drop me a line
off list and I'll be glad to take them off your hands!
Thanks and see you down the road (behind me with those big old =
mirrors)
Ed
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
75 IHC Travelall
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 08:50:10 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: In need of a hitch....
If you need a hitch I have one. Its not a "equal-i-zer" though. Its a
Drawtight weight distributing hitch complete with the adjustable height ball
and a new friction sway bar and a good sturdy box for storage. All the parts
are there and it is in perfect shape. I am in the Houston TX area and I will
let the whole thing go for $100. The friction sway bar cost me that and it
has only been used a couple of times.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Engle" <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 7:33 PM
Subject: [VAC] In need of a hitch....
> Hi, VACers
> Well we're finally making preparations for the big transition from
> full-time docked to full-time "Workampers". We're pretty excited about
> it! Just a minor problem, we really need one of those "Equal-i-zer"
> hitches! We would like to buy a used one from somebody or a new one at a
> "fair price". I went on ebay last night and didn't see one. Then I went
> to the "Equal-i-zer" web site and was blown away at the "price tag".
> I'll probably end up paying the big bucks for one anyway but you can't
> blame a guy for trying.
> Jeff & Daile
> Full-Timers
> '77 A/S Sovereign
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 06:59:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: In need of a hitch....
Im not meaning to start a "my hitch is better than
yours" type of discussion, but...
I am sure that the more expensive hitches, such as
Henschen, are wonderfull. However, I have a Reese Dual
Cam hitch on my 31' Sovereign, and I have had
absolutely no problems towing with it.
I get no sway when the tracter trailer trucks blast
by.
Now, I cant say I have traveled 1000s of miles with
it, so there may be situations, such as high winds,
where the "better" hitches would actually do better,
but so far, considering the expense of upgrading, I am
perfectly happy with my curent setup.
Dave
--- Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Hi, VACers
> Well we're finally making preparations for the big
> transition from
> full-time docked to full-time "Workampers". We're
> pretty excited about
> it! Just a minor problem, we really need one of
> those "Equal-i-zer"
> hitches! We would like to buy a used one from
> somebody or a new one at a
> "fair price". I went on ebay last night and didn't
> see one. Then I went
> to the "Equal-i-zer" web site and was blown away at
> the "price tag".
> I'll probably end up paying the big bucks for one
> anyway but you can't
> blame a guy for trying.
> Jeff & Daile
> Full-Timers
> '77 A/S Sovereign
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:21:22 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: In need of a hitch....
Jeff,
The retail price isn't all that bad for the Equal-i-zer hitch. The one
I bought was for a 1000# tongue weight and was $550.00 + tax. You'll
like it a lot.
<<Jim>>
Jeffrey Engle wrote:
> Hi, VACers
> Well we're finally making preparations for the big transition from
> full-time docked to full-time "Workampers". We're pretty excited about
> it! Just a minor problem, we really need one of those "Equal-i-zer"
> hitches! We would like to buy a used one from somebody or a new one at a
> "fair price". I went on ebay last night and didn't see one. Then I went
> to the "Equal-i-zer" web site and was blown away at the "price tag".
> I'll probably end up paying the big bucks for one anyway but you can't
> blame a guy for trying.
> Jeff & Daile
> Full-Timers
> '77 A/S Sovereign
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 11:26:12 -0400
From: frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com
Subject: brakes & LEDs
A Girl and her Airstream:
1.) To hell with the old brakes -- new loaded Dexter loaded plates now
installed on both sides. As a side note, the nut extractors (fluted tool
from Sears that grabs into nut head) saved the day. I used it on nearly
every single nut (despite Kroil, heat, you name it). One of the best damn
twenty bucks I've spent.
2.) The new Doran LED taillights are GORGEOUS. Totally flow with the lines
of the rig. Since I didn't want to bolt directly into the skin, I fabbed an
aluminum plate to rivet through existing holes (through putty tape), with SS
bolts that pass through closed foam gasket to nut on light. Works like a
champ, looks great.
Now for that Equalizer hitch that Dunmeyer was talking about ...
Fran
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 11:38:35 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Sloar, was Equalizer
Daisy Welch wrote:
> We anxiously await this treatise !
> don't be shy.
>
Daisy,
Here goes:
It appears to me that many, if not most, folks ignore the advice given
on nearly ALL "solar" sites and just blindly buy panels and bolt 'em to
the roof. It often leads to disappointment and/or excessive expense.
Newbys or wannabes usually ask "how many panels do I need?" as their
first question, which should be the LAST question to be asked and
answered. Here's the deal if you want the most cost-efficient and
workable system:
First, you must determine YOUR usage. You can use the worksheets from
the solar sites or simply do your own. Here's the problem: many people
don't understand the terminology, especially Amp-Hours (AH). Think of
"amps" in terms of "gallons per minute" of water flow. If you flow one
gallon per minute, in one hour, you'll have 60 gallons. If your
electrical fixture uses 1 amp, it will use 1 AH in an hour. Note that it
is NOT correct to say, "it uses 1 amp per hour", as an Amp is already an
expression of rate of usage. (I spent a couple of hours with our
neighbor at the Escapade until she finally understood this concept. That
was AFTER she attended a seminar on the subject!)
You can either MEASURE the current draw (amps) of each fixture or use
the standard numbers. Most common RV lighting fixtures use #1141 bulbs,
which draw about 1.5 amps/each. Those fixtures often have 2 bulbs, so
draw 3 amps when on "high". Multiply the "amps draw" times the estimated
hours of use to get AH, and put those numbers in a worksheet. It might
look something like this:
Main light: 3 amps 4 hours/day 12 AH
Kitchen light 3 amps 1 hour/day 3 AH
Bath light 3 amps 1 hour/day 3 AH
pump 5 amps 15 minutes/day 1.25 AH
TV 3 amps 3 hours/day 9 AH
Total usage 28.25 AH/day
Because MAKING electricity by solar panels is expensive, it's always
wise to look at possible conservation measures. Replacing the "main
light" with a flourescent fixture that draws 1.7 amps will save at least
5 AH/day. Replacing the "low" bulb in a 2-bulb fixture with a #67 will
give you a light that draws only about 1/2 amp instead of 1.5 amps when
on the "low" setting. And, of course, don't leave unused lights "on".
So-called "phantom loads" shouldn't be neglected. I have over 5 AH/day
in our trailer, 1/3 of that is the pilot light that tells us that the
pump is "on". (!)
Once you have a chart of your usage, take a look at your battery
storage. Most batteries have an Amp-Hour rating; the common Group 27 is
rated at 105 AH, the Group 24 is 85, a Golf Cart battery is 200+ (you
need 2 to make 12 volts) As it's wise to avoid discharging your
batteries below 50% on a regular basis, you should have a decent reserve
for the inevitable cloudy day(s). In the case above, a single Group 27
battery can carry us for at least a couple of days w/o deep discharging,
but more would be better if we can fit 'em in someplace.
Only now can we look at panels to provide the electricity. A "50-watt"
panel will provide about 3 amps during the peak 4 hours of the day and
half that for another 4 hours. A "75-watt" panel will do 4 amps peak.
Adding the numbers, we see that a 50-watt panel will do about 18 AH/day,
a 75-watt one will give us 24 AH/day. Looks like 2 50-watt panels will
do the job.
FYI: a 50-watt panel is about 14" X 48", a 75-watter is 21" X 48". (I'm
going by memory, so might not be exact)
You should buy only 36-cell panels ("cells" are those dark blue things
on a panel), don't buy so-called "self-regulating" panels with only 33
cells. A charge regulator is also required. FWIW: I have a real cheapy
regulator that cost under $30.00, IIRC, and it works fine. The Solar
Boost 2000 is very desirable, as it has technology that gives you more
than rated current from your panels, adding as much as 25% output. (It's
not magic, but don't ask me to explain it here!)
You'll note in the usage table above that I didn't mention using an
inverter to provide 115 VAC. The reason is simple: although you can
install a large inverter to run a coffeepot and/or microwave, you will
pay VERY dearly for the privilege. I won't go into the calculations at
this time, but be aware that making a pot of coffee will use at least
25-30 AH by itself. Popping a bag of corn in the microwave will nearly
flatten a pair of Group 27 batteries. A small inverter to run your
laptop computer is OK, we do that all the time.
People with big 5'ers or MHs install a half-dozen GC batteries and cover
the roof with solar panels. THOSE folks can use an inverter pretty much
as they please.
An eMeter or equivilant is a very desirable addition to your electrical
system. Think of it as a "fuel guage" for your batteries, as it tracks
actual AH use and charging from/to your batteries. An accurate voltmeter
is a mandatory minimum to get an idea of your battery condition.
The reason many folks don't use solar in the first place ("I'll just buy
a generator, I understand that") is because they don't do their
homework. Electrical concepts are pretty foreign to most people, and
aren't always well-explained in the books and web sites. However, it
really isn't that complicated, and the usage table (see above) won't
take you more than 15 minutes to compile for YOUR rig. The biggest
problem is TRUSTING your calculations. You can't SEE all this stuff
happening, you have only a fuzzy understanding of what's going on, and
you're afraid to commit money based on what you know/don't know.
There's several points that might help alleviate the fear of the
unknown: Many folks are doing it, so it MUST work. And, solar power is
modular, if one 75-watt panel isn't enough, you can add more. Don't make
the mistake of covering your (limited) roof real estate with too-small
panels, however. I'd probably recommend that we try to get by with one
75-watt panel in the case above and add a second if need be. It'd be
less finacially risky than installing 2 50-watt panels and finding it to
be a bit short. Of course, even an "inadaquet" solar system will extend
your boondocking stays.
If you want to take some of the mystery out of it, get the eMeter first
and watch it during a weekend of boondocking. Look at some of the web
sites provided by solar vendors and definitely read Fred's treatise on
the subject at http://www.phrannie.org
Rest assured that solar DOES work and work well. We've stayed as long as
3 weeks w/o moving, and had as much charge in our batteries as when we
arrived. Our usage is pretty light, as we have only a 5" TV that draws
less than a reading light and our main overhead light is a flourescent.
I did the calculations above and arrived at 20 AH daily usage for our
rig. The eMeter confirms it, and the batteries are normally pretty well
fully charged by 1:00 PM. We have no noisy, stinky generator to fuss
with or bother the neighbors.
Lest anyone think I'm one of those tree huggers who think we should
replace nuclear power plants with solar farms, I'm not. Here's some real
numbers to chew on:
Our little solar system would cost about $1200.00 to buy and it
generates 30+ AH/day when it's sunny. That amounts to less than 11 KWHR
(kilowatt hours) per month. We're probably about average in our home
usage, but we consume about 700 KWHR/mo. in our house. A typical
home-sized alternate energy system (often comprising solar AND wind
power) costs about $20,000.00 and provides less than our usage; we'd
have to do some serious conservation to get by.
If you have any further questions, fire away, I'll try to help.
<<Jim>>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 10:59:14 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: brakes & LEDs
Good job, Fran.....way to go! Nothing makes you feel better than cracking a
code on these ole rascals.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 11:18:05 -0500
From: Rick Davis <k8doc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Jordan controller
>I have a Jordan Ultima 2020 controller. It's very smooth, no jerking and
>holds adjustment with no problem. It is a progressive controller
>controlled by a cable to the brake pedal. As you apply the brakes it
>comes on. If in town and just slowing down slightly that is what it
>does. If in a panic stop it applies the brakes hard. In other words you
>control the trailer by how hard you apply the brakes. I have had several
>controllers through the years and this is the best by far. The Jordan
>and the Prodigy are supposed to be the best controllers on the market
>today.
>
>Herb Spivey
>6074
>
I fully agree with Herbs comments. This is by far the best controller i
have used.
It has several advantages over the typical inertia controller
1 Easily adjustable and not affected by mounting angle or whether you are
going up or down hill.
2 Meters the brake current. When full on the typical magnet pulls about 3
amps so when hooking onto a trailer you can quickly tell by the current if
all the brakes are there.
3 Works in reverse. Pendulum controllers must be actuated manually.
4 Will still function from the brake pedal in case of a complete brake
failure on the tow vehicle. Inertia type would have to be applied manually
This has proven to be far smoother than the Tekonsha it replaced. The
inertia controller was not happy at slow speeds in town if set up on the
highway or didn't brake hard enough on the road when set up in town..
Rick Davis 1602
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:00:50 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: power plug receptacle
Do any of you with a late 50's early to mid 60's trailer (perhaps newer too)
need the Bargman 35 amp power cord receptacle? You know, the trailer mounted
part with the spring loaded cover that the electric cord plugs into. A
fellow VAC member has spotted about a half dozen of them.
If you are interested please contact me OFF LIST at s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.net
and I will put you in contact with him. With shipping they will cost about
$25 US.
Monitor Scott
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:45:12 -0400
From: frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com
Subject: More brakes and LEDs
A couple folks have asked, so here's a general reply. I'd be more than
happy to respond directly to any additional questions.
1.) The extractor tool I used is from this set. Sears has other sets
available. The nuts were in such various states of rust that I had to use
the three largest sizes from this set:
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@
1377032289.1034270630@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccghadcgheijemmcehgcemgdffmdfim.0&vert
ical=TOOL&bidsite=&pid=00952160000
2.) Again, the LEDs ROCK! I only gently hinted at this once before, but
these lights from Doran are about 1/5th the best price I found anywhere
else. On balance I found LED lights of the same size and function -- at
best -- slightly less than $200/ each .
Here's the link to the lights:
http://www.doranmfg.com/final_pages/doran_7.pdf Call Scott on the contacts
page if you are interested. Tell him you heard about these through our
discussion group.
I regret I do not have a digital camera, but I will try to borrow one & post
a couple pictures somewhere. Final comment is that I was originally
frightened off from replacing backing plates because I assumed that nothing
made today could have the same "heft" as an older component. The new
backing plates are nearly identical in weight and dimensions as the old
ones, so that myth has been purged, at least in my mind.
Fran
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:49:14 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
Hello Everyone,
I tried to order an Atwood from Camper's Choice, but they said the factory
was backordered. So I ordered the Suburban. When it arrived yesterday, I
was surprised to find that the tank was encased in only styrofoam, and
nothing else.
Is there supposed to be a metal case around this? Or do you install it just
as it comes?
Thanks again,
David Reilly
Madison, Mississippi
1953 Overlander
1963 Overlander
1991 Excella 1000 34'
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 9:36 AM
Subject: [VAC] (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I have a 1963 Overlander with its original Bowen water heater. The heater
> is leaking water from the bottom onto the floor. I check every external
> water connection and found none leaking. I have to unfortunately assume
> this water heater is toast!
>
> For those of you who have replaced one of these, which modern heater fits
> best (or is easiest to install) -- A 6 gal. Suburban? or a 6 gal. Atwood?
Or
> other water heater?
>
> Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> David Reilly
> Madison, Mississippi
>
> 1953 Overlander
> 1963 Overlander
> 1991 Excella 1000 34'
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 15:24:22 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
D. Reilly wrote:
>I tried to order an Atwood from Camper's Choice, but they said the factory
>was backordered. So I ordered the Suburban. When it arrived yesterday, I
>was surprised to find that the tank was encased in only styrofoam, and
>nothing else.
>
>Is there supposed to be a metal case around this? Or do you install it just
>as it comes?
Yep- and the new Atwood would have been the same way. Both
brands dropped the metal case for cardboard quite a while ago, and
have now gone to styrofoam to get rid of using the fiberglass in the
manufacturing process.
The styrofoam works quite well, though.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 12:32:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Black water tank structural photos
I finally got the photos of my black tank removal
scanned. If you want copies, email me off list. Be
warned that they are about 3MB altogether.
Lexxey--welcome back. I don't know if these are what
you're looking for but they may help. On my unit (a
68) you would definitely access the black tank and
related structures from beneath. Aside from the
plumbing and electrical connections, the tank is held
up by two sections of angle iron (front and rear).
These, in turn, are attached to "ears" on the frame
with four bolts.
Here's what I have:
-Several views of the underside of the trailer with
the belly pan off and tank removed. These allow you
to see the surrounding structure and connections.
-A picture of the tank itself after removal
-A picture of a very rusty sheet metal box that holds
the tank.
-The contoured foam support that sits under the tank.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 14:36:12 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <dmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: (Cold) Water heater - Serious Question (Update and another Question)
Thanks Chris for clearing that up for me. I don't mind the syrofoam, I just
thought there was something missing - or maybe it was a unit to be slid into
the old case.
Thanks, David
(Now I just have to figure out how to remove the old water heater without
taking apart the bed structure and removing the galvanized water tank.)
----- Original Message ----- > Yep- and the new Atwood would have been the
same way. Both
> brands dropped the metal case for cardboard quite a while ago, and
> have now gone to styrofoam to get rid of using the fiberglass in the
> manufacturing process.
> The styrofoam works quite well, though.
>
> --
> Chris Bryant
> mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 14:22:04 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Winterizing Again
Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
cold and finally the toilet.
It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
VERY cold.
--
- Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:42:18 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Jordan controller
Hi Rick,
Before you talk about the disadvantages of inertia controller, please accept
that all controllers are not equal. You should study the Prodigy before
including it with the rest.
I'm quite new to towing and chose both a Hensley hitch and the Prodigy brake
controller to limit my risks.
So, I'll reply to each of the disadvantages as I learned from the Prodigy
video and the manual. My previous controller was a Voyager, so I also
understand how it functions.
> 1 Easily adjustable and not affected by mounting angle or whether you are
> going up or down hill.
The Prodigy adjusts itself for changes in angle. The braking does not
change with up or down hill situations. It's simple to setup the first time
and any adjustment is very easy. I know that you understand that the
trailer brakes work differently when cold and hot. It's simple to change
the aggressiveness of the Prodigy to accommodate this situation. Don't
think you are so lucky with the wire adjustment.
> 2 Meters the brake current. When full on the typical magnet pulls about 3
> amps so when hooking onto a trailer you can quickly tell by the current
if
> all the brakes are there.
An obvious advantage not on the Prodigy. Only the voltage is indicated on
the Prodigy.
>
> 3 Works in reverse. Pendulum controllers must be actuated manually.
Definitely not, as the Prodigy works equally in forward or reverse. There
is an over ride to deactivate the reverse braking for some situations.
> 4 Will still function from the brake pedal in case of a complete brake
Certainly something from "far scapes". The front and rear brakes have
separate hydraulic systems, just in case. Please explain how this could
happen. Besides, what's the problem with manual braking? There will always
be times when this is preferrible.
> This has proven to be far smoother than the Tekonsha it replaced. The
> inertia controller was not happy at slow speeds in town if set up on the
> highway or didn't brake hard enough on the road when set up in town..
Not so with the Prodigy and you can't compare it to any other inertia
controller. I can set the aggressiveness of the Prodigy to bring the
trailer brakes on long before the truck brakes come to full power. If I hit
the brakes hard and reduce the brake, the Prodigy follows immediatly by
reducing voltage. If the brake is held for more than three seconds, (any
emergency situation would be over by then) it automatically sets the voltage
to "hold the brake" and on my unit, this is three volts. The setup calls
for full applied braking at 30 mph. It's true that at very slow speeds, the
Prodigy sets the brakes too hard, but releases immediately.
It's senseless to try to compare controller unless you've studied the
operation. Generalizations are not good advice that might sway newbees
(like me) to one or another controller. Certainly your critique of older
inertia controllers is valid.
Please consider that the Prodigy is a new breed. Give it the credit that
the engineers designed into it.
My Prodigy worked admirably in both hurricane Hanna and Isabel. For some
unknown fate, I traveled with both for three days of my first trip. You can
imagine that I had several panic stops from 55 to 60 mph due to accidents
and emergency vehicles. The trailer stayed where it belonged, behind my
truck. I credit much of this to the four wheel ABS braking that kept the
truck from sliding out and so let the trailer do the steering.
With my earlier tow vehicle, a conversion van with only rear wheel ABS, I
would have been in deep sh**. The front wheels would have locked and who
knows where the trailer and would have ended up.
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:58:50 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Airstream Axle replacement.
Hi All,
I'd like to collect information (measurements) from restorers who have
recently replaced axles on Airstream or Argosy travel trailers. The pre '75
restorations would be interesting. If the axles replacement were
alternatives to the Henchen axles, this would also be most helpful.
Please reply off-list. I can provide a list of the necessary measurements
to those who contact me off list.
'69 Safari 23,
'74 Argosy 22,
Joy
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 17:37:55 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Winterizing Again
Karl, don't forget some anti freeze for the P traps.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 16:22
Subject: [VAC] Winterizing Again
>
> Still warm in New Mexico but I'm done with my '76 Airstream so I
> drained the hot water tank and closed the valves at the tank. Then
> removed the hose from the fresh water tank and put on a short hose. That
> goes into a 1 gallon plastic container of RV antifreeze. I turn on the
> pump and get the red stuff to the kitchen sink first hot and cold, Then
> back to the bathroom and the sink hot and cold. Then the shower hot and
> cold and finally the toilet.
>
> It's ready to survive another winter they say this year will be
> VERY cold.
>
> --
>
> - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 17:49:59 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Jordan controller
Joy wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 16:42
Subject: [VAC] Re: Jordan controller
> The Prodigy adjusts itself for changes in angle. The braking does not
> change with up or down hill situations. It's simple to setup the first
time
> and any adjustment is very easy. I know that you understand that the
> trailer brakes work differently when cold and hot. It's simple to change
> the aggressiveness of the Prodigy to accommodate this situation. Don't
> think you are so lucky with the wire adjustment.
Joy, the Jordan controller has a dial that lets you adjust the agressiveness
of the braking action so you can adjust for hot or cold trailer brakes.
Actually, I've never had occassion to make that adjustment but it's easy to
do. I agree with you -- the Voyager isn't in the same league as the Prodigy
or the Jordan.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #451
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