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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, October 8, 2002 Issue 449
Today's Topics:
1. Fwd: 1976 Airstream for parts
2. Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
3. Yukon tow vehicle
4. Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
5. Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
6. Re: Yukon tow vehicle
7. Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
8. Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
9. Tim's plumbing job
10. Re:
11. updating to external utilities
12. Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
13. Water lines
14. Re: Yukon tow vehicle
15. Re: equal-i-zer
16. Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
17. Brake Controller?
18. Re: Brake Controller?
19. Re: Brake Controller?
20. Re: Brake Controller?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:47:08 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Fwd: 1976 Airstream for parts
Anyone want their own parts depot? I know nothing more than the email I
received below. Contact Leroy direct at oannie@xxxxxxxxxx.com
RJ
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Office Annie <oannie@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: Mon Oct 07, 2002 02:29:39 PM US/Pacific
> To: "'feedback@xxxxxxxxxx.com'" <feedback@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: 1976 Airstream for parts
>
> I have a 1976 Land Yacht 31 footer that I used parts from to restore a
> wrecked 1986 that I am currently using. I took the axles and other
> misc items off of the 1976 and I am now going to "part out" and
> disassemble the '76 for salvage. Would you or anyone you are familiar
> with be interested in this trailer in part or whole? Please contact me
> with your interest or knowledge of other sources where to offer it
> through.
> I am located in south central Pennsylvania.
> Thank you,
> Leroy
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 20:53:10 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Greetings Huff!
The new power cord that was installed as part of the updates on my coach
is approximately 15 feet in length. The through-the-wall port has a
basket that the plug is supposed to store in allowing the exterior door
and flap to close - - it is a battle nearly every time the cord is
stored to get the plug in its basket at the proper angle to close the
door. The installation is now about seven years old, and I am becoming
concerned that the plastic used in constructing the port is becoming
brittle and will either break at the hinge or simply disintegrate.
I am finally getting something of a handle on the tangling problem as
the old power converter was abandoned this summer in favor of a new
inverter that is installed under the roadside bed which reduced the
potential entanglements by one serious obstacle. There are still
several water supply lines that periodically argue with the electrical
cord.
The "tandem" electrical system that you suggest may be workable, but the
sockets that you would need could become rather expensive - - at least
based on some of the prices that I was quoted when I was looking for
something that would approximate the style of electrical connection used
on early 1960s Airstreams - - the socket to mount in the body of the
trailer was quoted at $80.00 (part only) and the appropriate 30 AMP 20
foot cord was quoted at $120.00. Those prices convinced me to go with a
new circuit breaker box and is how I ended up with the modified entrance
as I had assumed that the original style service cord would still be
used in speaking with the RV Electrician did the work - - unfortunately
this was before I discovered a Vintage Friendly Airstream dealer and the
work was performed by a dealership with almost no knowledge of
Airstreams. My one concern would be whether the setup would be such
that connecting both power supplies at one time could be prevented - -
without complete separation, I would suspect that their might be
problems with the electrical code.
Good luck with your dilemma.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Dave Huffman
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 9:57 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Thanks, Kevin, for the info. I have found a source for an Electric
Utility
Door, but I don't think it includes the smallish box I see in the
current
SOB Power Utility Compartments. That could prevent some of the tangling
you're tangoing with. I have not asked the salesperson to unreel one of
those power cords, but they look shorter than that on my '68 Caravel.
I'm wondering whether I could go male to male at the end of the
present
Power Cord, that to the back of an External Power Outlet unit mounted on
the
new Utility door. We rarely use A/C, so could a 30amp? Power Cord be
plugged in externally to this set-up for only Heat, Fan. Then if/when I
need A/C, I could open the utility door, unplug the end of the oeq Power
Cord, and connect it up?
Huff
----------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 19:04:10 -0700
From: Robert Ramsay <rsramsay@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Yukon tow vehicle
We just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon with the 5.3 litre engine and the 4.1
rear end.
We had been using our 1999 Yukon Denali to tow our 30 foot 1968
Sovereign International. However we towed in 3rd rather than overdrive
as recommended on the list.
The new Yukon has a "tow/haul" mode that delays the shift pattern etc.
GMC clearly says that it is OK to tow in "Drive" without having to be
careful and tow in 3rd.
Has anyone had any experience with the newer GMC transmissions, and do
you think it is safe to tow in "Drive" with a 2002 or 2003 Yukon?
Robert Ramsay
1968 30' Sovereign International
Victoria, B.C. Canada
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 02:06:57 +0000
From: "H. A. K." <revdrmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
Hi,
I am in the process of stripping off "snow seal" from my 73 argosy.
I have already talked to a Rhino guy,,, and he said it would add
about 400 LBS to the trailer. Granted,,, it will only be 1/3 as
thick as compared to the amount used in a truck bed (I didn't want
it to end up being 3/8-1/2" thick).
All I wanted was to encapsule the trailer to prevent any potential
leaks. Personally I don't mind the extra weight,,, and think
the Rhino lining will hold up better to my abuse.
most humbly yours,,,
hak
>I've heard you can get Rhino Linings to spray their
>polyurethane truck bed liner on your RV roof.
>Strong, flexible and completely waterproof. Great
>stuff, but I'd have the same concern about weight.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 02:08:56 +0000
From: "H. A. K." <revdrmr@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
Oh yeah,,,
I almost forgot that part --- the estimate was $1600.00 for the entire
trailer...
your humble airstream slave,,,
hak
>About $350-$400 per truck bed...it won't come cheap for 30' of roof.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 21:27:31 -0500
From: lefty frizzell <leftyfrizzell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Yukon tow vehicle
I have the 2001 1/2 ton Pickup with the 5.3 engine and the same
transmission and tow/haul.
I put it in tow/haul and the tranmission in drive. And, I've been doing
this for nearly two years. I had the transmission checked at the
truck's 30,000 check and it was in good shape. I tow a 31 footer and
have had to pass motorhomes...and this thing will do 75 without even
straining.
One thing that I plan on doing every 20,000 miles or so is a complete
transmission flush where they pump tranmission fluid thru the tranny in
reverse and clean out the majority of the old fluid. I did that on my
old Yukon with 80K and again at 105K...and it was like driving a new
truck! The shifts were crisp and clean and there was none of the "Will
I go into overdrive this time or not" that I got prior to the flush.
It ain't cheap, but in my opinion worth every penny.
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
****
I can only please one person per day.
Today is not your day.
Tomorrow is not looking too good either.
****
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Robert Ramsay
Sent: October 07, 2002 21:04
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Yukon tow vehicle
We just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon with the 5.3 litre engine and the 4.1
rear end.
We had been using our 1999 Yukon Denali to tow our 30 foot 1968
Sovereign International. However we towed in 3rd rather than overdrive
as recommended on the list.
The new Yukon has a "tow/haul" mode that delays the shift pattern etc.
GMC clearly says that it is OK to tow in "Drive" without having to be
careful and tow in 3rd.
Has anyone had any experience with the newer GMC transmissions, and do
you think it is safe to tow in "Drive" with a 2002 or 2003 Yukon?
Robert Ramsay
1968 30' Sovereign International
Victoria, B.C. Canada
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:25:57 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
How about a subject change to Roof Painting. That way when we access the
archives later we can find this. Interesting debate lately about paint
versus polish. Roof painting has always interested me because white is
about 7 degrees cooler on average than silver, my research has found, but
the price to pay is high in several other areas.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:48:41 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
HI HAK,
Because I'm in the process of replacing what I consider to be questionable
rivets on the exterior of my '74 Argosy, I question putting on a surface
that will not allow you to view rivet integrety. My recent 2000 mile
evidenced many rivets that bled black streaks. Each rivet so identified is
being replaced. Running gear out of balance, etc. might have caused some of
the problem. The AC is not properly supported and that's the reason for
some of the damage.
Way back when I think I started this thread, all I wanted to know if the
white paint being used for airstream roofs had any insulative value other
than reflection. Most answers said "no" to insulative value.
With your proposed cap, though the engineers don't agree, I think the heat
adsorption and transfer to the skin would make the Argosy into an oven!
It's almost there now with the existing paint?
Just a couple of thoughts for your consideration.
Regards, '74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:00:51 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: Tim's plumbing job
As many of you know, I quit ;-) Several weeks ago after the plumbing failed
in my '71 Safari flooding the trailer.
I replaced all the plumbing with CPVC. I finally hooked the hose up to it
today and no leaks execpt for one tiny water seep near the new check valve
at the water inlet. I'll just keep and eye on it and hope it seals itself.
Other than that every thing seams fine. I still have to clean up a bit, and
put some clamps on the piping like the copper had to hold the piping to the
floor.
All in all, I am glad its done and hope to be leak free for the next 31
years!
You can see some pics here...
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/plumbing.htm
-Tim
tim@telecom-pros.com
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:39:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re:
Gentlemen:
There were several stylish arrangements for external
power connections on display at the April Snug Harbor
VAC Rally. The ones that come to mind were borrowed
from sailboat hardware with a stainless watertight
fitting on the exterior, where unscrewing the
stainless cap, exposes a Hubble-style twist connector
to attach your shore power cord to. Let your fingers
do the walking thru a WestMarine.com catalog and
you'll see lots of these fittings and associated power
cords. 50amp and higher.
This arrangement may not provide a solution to storing
power cords per se, but it certainly was weather and
bug-resistant to the max. Just depends on what your
reason and priority for reconfiguring would be.
John Leggett
1968 Safari
WBCCI #1154
San Francisco
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 08:57:10 -0700
From: "Dave Huffman" <huff@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Thanks, Kevin, for the info. I have found a source
for an Electric Utility Door, but I don't think it
includes the smallish box I see in the current
SOB Power Utility Compartments. That could prevent
some of the tangling you're tangoing with. I have not
asked the salesperson to unreel one of those power
cords, but they look shorter than that on my '68
Caravel.
I'm wondering whether I could go male to male at
the end of the present Power Cord, that to the back of
an External Power Outlet unit mounted on the new
Utility door. We rarely use A/C, so could a 30amp?
Power Cord be plugged in externally to this set-up for
only Heat, Fan. Then if/when I need A/C, I could open
the utility door, unplug the end of the oeq Power
Cord, and connect it up?
Huff
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 11:12:49 -0500
From: "Dick Parins" <2867@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: updating to external utilities
Huff wrote:
We're planning a trip soon and I had enough
of knee
bending and squatting to get at the
Hole-in-the-Floor-of-the-Utility-Compartment approach to trailer
utility
hook-ups. As I looked around the campgrounds I saw no one else
hooking up
from a hole in the bottom of their trailer!
I don't want to cut into my vintage utility door, so I got a new
one
which I won't feel guilty cutting into for utility access.
I looked at current trailer utility access at a local RV center and I
was
shown small PVC type boxes which have sliding or opening covers over
the
utility outlet. Seems a good idea vs. the capped male plug I was
planning
to mount to the outside of the door for water.
For electricity the simple thing would be to get an outdoor
receptacle
from an electric supply and just mount that so I can plug in the
power cable
from outside. But that plastic box holding a 6-10' power cable with
a cover
seems one better.
I hoped to get some help from Airstream. Although I got a quick
reply,
it seems to me they are "vintage" in their approach also:
"Dear sir, I would
add a quick disconnect to the water supply with a short pc of hose
that
will hang out at bottom of pvc pipe and put a pigtail on the electric
as
well that you can hook up to with out feeding the cable through the
pipe.
Other than this you will have to use your imagination to come up with
a
easier more accessible solution."
BTW I have asked what others do to prevent critters from crawling
up
into the utility pipe when it's open. In spite of a light steel wool
stuffing I found a dessicated frog in the area when I inspected it
last
month.
I don't want you to think we're ignoring you. I have been wondering the same thing. Like you I don't want to destroy the vintage look. I have put a new female water connection (The trailer connection should be female to work with a standard hose) insid
As far as electric I still have a 15 foot cord folded up in the same compartment. I am warming to the idea of shortening that to about 18 inches and carrying a couple of heavy duty extension cords but I haven't done it yet. I don't have AC so I don't ne
The real bugger is your question about critters. I've noticed new units where the cord storage area has a cut out just the right size for the cord to hang through. presumably when the cord is stowed this small hole is covered. In my case I would have t
Good luck with your changes. I am curious about the new utility door. Is it aluminum? Where did you get it?
Dick
'62 Bambi
--
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------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 11:32:23 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
FWIW:
I installed a Twist-Lock "bulkhead connector" on our Avion and a
matching receptacle on the end of the cord. The connector is inside the
original compartment, so doesn't need to be weatherproof, but they do
sell such outfits for sailboats. Also, Camping World carries
weatherproof bulkhead connectors, but it does tend to get pricy.
I also use a QD fitting on the hose so I don't need to do contortions to
connect/disconnect the water supply.
<<Jim>>
Kevin D Allen wrote:
> Greetings Huff!
>
> The new power cord that was installed as part of the updates on my coach
> is approximately 15 feet in length. The through-the-wall port has a
> basket that the plug is supposed to store in allowing the exterior door
> and flap to close - - it is a battle nearly every time the cord is
> stored to get the plug in its basket at the proper angle to close the
> door. The installation is now about seven years old, and I am becoming
> concerned that the plastic used in constructing the port is becoming
> brittle and will either break at the hinge or simply disintegrate.
>
> I am finally getting something of a handle on the tangling problem as
> the old power converter was abandoned this summer in favor of a new
> inverter that is installed under the roadside bed which reduced the
> potential entanglements by one serious obstacle. There are still
> several water supply lines that periodically argue with the electrical
> cord.
>
> The "tandem" electrical system that you suggest may be workable, but the
> sockets that you would need could become rather expensive - - at least
> based on some of the prices that I was quoted when I was looking for
> something that would approximate the style of electrical connection used
> on early 1960s Airstreams - - the socket to mount in the body of the
> trailer was quoted at $80.00 (part only) and the appropriate 30 AMP 20
> foot cord was quoted at $120.00. Those prices convinced me to go with a
> new circuit breaker box and is how I ended up with the modified entrance
> as I had assumed that the original style service cord would still be
> used in speaking with the RV Electrician did the work - - unfortunately
> this was before I discovered a Vintage Friendly Airstream dealer and the
> work was performed by a dealership with almost no knowledge of
> Airstreams. My one concern would be whether the setup would be such
> that connecting both power supplies at one time could be prevented - -
> without complete separation, I would suspect that their might be
> problems with the electrical code.
>
> Good luck with your dilemma.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> 1978 Argosy Minuet
> 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
> Dave Huffman
> Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 9:57 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
>
> Thanks, Kevin, for the info. I have found a source for an Electric
> Utility
> Door, but I don't think it includes the smallish box I see in the
> current
> SOB Power Utility Compartments. That could prevent some of the tangling
> you're tangoing with. I have not asked the salesperson to unreel one of
> those power cords, but they look shorter than that on my '68 Caravel.
> I'm wondering whether I could go male to male at the end of the
> present
> Power Cord, that to the back of an External Power Outlet unit mounted on
> the
> new Utility door. We rarely use A/C, so could a 30amp? Power Cord be
> plugged in externally to this set-up for only Heat, Fan. Then if/when I
> need A/C, I could open the utility door, unplug the end of the oeq Power
> Cord, and connect it up?
> Huff
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 10:21:01 -0500
From: "Dick Parins" <2867@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Water lines
Don Wrote:
PEX tubing and fittings. The only way to go.
Many people seem to agree. I was trying to make the point that this is not true within one foot of a Shurflo pump. Their instructions say: " SHURflo recommends at least 1 ft of 1/2" I.D. flexible high pressure tubing to both ports. Ideally the pumps p
Dick
'62 Bambi
--
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------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 11:34:06 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Yukon tow vehicle
Robert,
You should always be safe by following the manufacturer's
recommendations. Never, ever operate your transmission "like others do
it" unless their vehicle is the same as yours. Some are OK to tow in OD,
others aren't, and there are no general rules.
<<Jim>>
Robert Ramsay wrote:
>
> We just bought a 2002 GMC Yukon with the 5.3 litre engine and the 4.1
> rear end.
>
> We had been using our 1999 Yukon Denali to tow our 30 foot 1968
> Sovereign International. However we towed in 3rd rather than overdrive
> as recommended on the list.
>
> The new Yukon has a "tow/haul" mode that delays the shift pattern etc.
> GMC clearly says that it is OK to tow in "Drive" without having to be
> careful and tow in 3rd.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with the newer GMC transmissions, and do
> you think it is safe to tow in "Drive" with a 2002 or 2003 Yukon?
>
> Robert Ramsay
> 1968 30' Sovereign International
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 11:43:32 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: equal-i-zer
Chris,
I saved your message for a long time (April, to be exact), as we had
bought a 30' Avion that towed miserably with an EZ-Lift hitch. Although
there was no sway, it wanted to wander back and forth, making it very
tiring to drive.
We sold the trailer, but I didn't feel right sending it to the new owner
with that situation even though it might have been OK with his truck.
So, I went to a local RV dealer who was listed on Equalizer's web site
and bought their setup. Installation was easy, but I did have to
lengthen the "drop" part of the ball mount, as it wasn't long enough for
my Dodge.
I'm very happy to report that the trailer tows like it should, using the
new hitch setup. No sway, no wander, it just tracks as you'd expect. We
drove 750 miles to meet the buyer half-way, so I feel like we got a good
test.
Many thanks to Charlie and you for tipping me off to that hitch. It
isn't a Hensley, but it's only $550.00, not $2500.00.
Although I have the EZ-Lift hitch on our other Avion adjusted so it tows
OK, I like the Equalizer well enough that I may replace that hitch also.
<<Jim>>
Chris Elliott wrote:
> Ted , I have one , and like it . You may have seen this , but if not , here it
> is
> http://www.equalizerhitch.com/home.html
> Chris
> "T. Byrd" wrote:
>
>
>>Hey Charlie,
>>
>>We're days away from completing the first phase of our restoration work,
>>and I need a hitch too. You recently posted a message of your trip
>>through the northwest, and mentioned that your Equalizer hitch performed
>>well. Could you elaborate? Which model? What type of sway control? Would
>>you recommend it over Reese or Eaz Lift? I recently spoke with a local
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 12:00:26 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Painting the Exterior of an Airstream or Argosy
hak. We would suggest that you check the condition of your axles, before you
add that kind of weight. Axles from 74 and prior and prone to rubber rod
failures, which simply means if that has happened to your axles, a bottoming
out can occur when you hit bumps.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 17:33:53 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <GillRobert@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Brake Controller?
Just curious if any one has tried various brand brake controllers?
If so what/which one would you consider to be better?
The reason I ask is I have a Reese Compact in my truck that works fine. (
For me any way.)
I bought a new vehicle that I will be using to tow with and thinking of g
etting another controller for it instead of taking the one out of my truc
k, since I may tow with it again some time. Plus new vehicle, needs new c
ontroller, not new vehicle with old controller. So please give me some in
fo on this.
Thanks
Bobby
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 17:33:22 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Controller?
Bobby,
I have the Tekonsha Prodigy. This is by far the best brake controller
they ever made.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Gill=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 5:33 PM
Subject: [VAC] Brake Controller?
Just curious if any one has tried various brand brake controllers?
If so what/which one would you consider to be better?
The reason I ask is I have a Reese Compact in my truck that works
fine. (For me any way.)
I bought a new vehicle that I will be using to tow with and thinking
of getting another controller for it instead of taking the one out of my
truck, since I may tow with it again some time. Plus new vehicle, needs
new controller, not new vehicle with old controller. So please give me
some info on this.
Thanks
Bobby
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 17:00:08 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: Brake Controller?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Greetings Robert!
I have just recently tried a brake controller that is fantastic in my
opinion. It is a Hayes-Lemmerz Micro Control #81750 with an optional
remote manual control #81751. Setting up my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado
sparked my interest in this controller as the remote manual control is
attached to the controller via a coiled wire thus allowing the remote to
ride on the seat next to me. With this old Cadillac, the distance of
the reach would make reaching the brake controller unit itself difficult
if not impossible in an emergency situation. This unit has impressed me
to the extent that I plan to replace my Tekonsha unit with one of these
in my Suburban.
Here are two links to information about this unit:
http://aftermarket.hayes-lemmerz.com/html/manual_81750_pdf.html
(tells about installation and the optional remote manual control)
http://aftermarket.hayes-lemmerz.com/html/micro_control_hd_plus.html
(provides basic specifications for the controller)
Good luck with your decision!
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar in
Training)
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Gill=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 4:33 PM
Subject: [VAC] Brake Controller?
Just curious if any one has tried various brand brake controllers?
If so what/which one would you consider to be better?
The reason I ask is I have a Reese Compact in my truck that works
fine. (For me any way.)
I bought a new vehicle that I will be using to tow with and thinking
of getting another controller for it instead of taking the one out of my
truck, since I may tow with it again some time. Plus new vehicle, needs
new controller, not new vehicle with old controller. So please give me
some info on this.
Thanks
Bobby
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 18:07:30 -0400
From: "Terry Jones" <wvlogcabin@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Controller?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Robert,
I have the Tekonsha Prodigy also and am very happy with the system. Very
easy to hook up and love the way it works.
Terry Jones
Romney, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Gill
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 5:33 PM
Subject: [VAC] Brake Controller?
Just curious if any one has tried various brand brake controllers?
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #449
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