The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Saturday, October 5, 2002 Issue 446
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Electrical woes
2. Re: Electrical woes
3. Re: Electrical woes
4. Re: Electrical woes
5. Re: Electrical woes
6. Refrigerator Problems
7. Eye torturing text
8. Truck stops
9. Re: Eye torturing text
10. airstream classified ad
11. Re: Electrical woes
12. Re: 12v outlets
13. Refer Help
14. Re: Refer Help
15. Re: Refer Help
16. Re: 12v outlets
17. Re: Electrical woes
18. Re: Refrigerator Problems
19. Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1865954841: Cyclo Buffer and Polisher Plus Accessory Pads
20. Re: 12v outlets
21. Water lines
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:54:03 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Hi Bob,
Seems like you are making a can of worms out of apple pie! The voltages
you describe sound perfectly normal as far as I understand. To fully charge
a lead sulfate battery, it takes about 13.8-14.4 volts. After standing with
the charger off, the voltage of a fully charged battery will drop to about
12.4 to 12.8 volts. When you check the voltage on the battery with the
univolt operating, you are looking at a charging voltage.
IMHO, most appliances have a wide range of operating voltage and most likely
have a zener diode (sets the output regardless of the input) in the circuit
to protect sensitive components.
You got to check apples with apples. Was the Toyota running when you
checked the battery? Was the univolt in operation when you checked the
voltage? While on the subject of voltage, a battery can have 12.8 volts and
be useless as it can't deliver any amperes. A decent load tester will tell
you a lot about a battery. (See Harbor Freight.)
You might consider the surge that you cause when you connect and disconnect
a battery under load. Much like AC in your home, it's best to take
everything off-line before you disconnect the main and bring each appliance
on-line one at a time after the main is connected. It's possible that a
voltage spike caused by the arc could be many times the normal voltage -
maybe high enough to damage sensitive electronics.
I suppose it's possible that the Univolt is passing high amounts of AC.
Don't think DC circuitry would like that.
Most interesting is to sit back and read the technical solutions to your
problem. Good luck!
Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:39:53 -0400
From: Howard Lefkowitz <wa3vez@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are notoriously unreliable. Your
description describes a poor connection in the socket assembly. I had a
similar problem with my portable computer running the delorme Mapping
program. It would go on and off at weird times. I finally went to a
separate plug connection using a two pin rubber connector that made a solid
connection. No more problems. Cigarette lighter sockets work very well for
the cigar lighter plugs. Wire directly through a proper fuse.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 3:43 PM
Subject: [VAC] Electrical woes
> The other day when I wrote under the thread DC plug, I didn't know what a
> can of worms I was getting into. After I reported that my Toshiba TV/DVD
> was running I let it go for an hour and then turned it off. I could never
> get it back on.
>
> So, figuring it was low voltage I took my house battery for a check at
> Wal-Mart. It turned out to be pumping 13.4 when they checked it. So I
> started to get real interested in voltages and went out and bought a
digital
> multimeter at Radio Shack. (There's a great buy right now for $9.95 :)
>
> Came back and measured the battery as it was connected to Univolt and it
> read 13.84 volts. Checked the cigarette lighter plug inside the Airstream
> and it read 14.94 volts. Then I checked the cigarette lighter plug in my
> Toyota and it was 12.95 volts. Even I could figure out that there was too
> much DC voltage going to the Airstream plug.
>
> So as an experiment I turned on everything in the house that was DC and
then
> checked the voltage out of the plug. It was 13.12 volts. Plugged in the
> Toshiba TV/DVD and it came right on and continues as I write this note.
>
> So I assume the Univolt is somehow responsible for increasing the voltage
> over the house battery?! Is there a voltage regulator that works in the
> Airstream? Would there be a voltage regulation advantage to a newer
Univolt
> or the converter with the Charge Wizard.
>
> It seems that many of the new hi-tech appliances are VERY sensitive to
> receiving the exact voltage they specify. My RV-500 H20 heater has
> electronic ignition. It stopped working during the removal of my house
> battery and now it won't come back on. I suspect too high voltage.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:46:34 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Bob,
Been there and I feel your pain. My AC/DC TV requires 13.2 volts to run
(Even though it is a 12 volt system) and it never runs well when I am
boondocking. VCR is practically useless on battery power unless it is being
charged by the Univolt with shore power or my generator. A side note, my
VCR works fine when I move it into my truck for the kids to watch while
traveling.
You stated that when you tested the battery at Wal-Mart it showed 13.4
volts. It might be that your Univolt had just finished charging it. And
you say that is working fine now that you turned all of your DC appliances
on, that tells me that you dropped the voltage enough to start another
charging cycle from your Univolt, therefore boosting the output high enough
to run the TV/DVD. I am not saying that overvoltage is not the problem
because it probably has that protection too, but my experience has always
been undervoltage.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 17:55:54 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Now the Toshiba TV/DVD goes on pretty normally, without loading down the
circuits with other DC appliances. But when it plays it has a video noise
bands every second or so and makes a humming sound. No problem when I plug
it into AC. No problem earlier. Suspect that the univolt is charging now
but was dormant earlier ?!
Still no luck getting hot water ignition on the RV-500.
Joy wrote:
> IMHO, most appliances have a wide range of operating voltage and most
likely
> have a zener diode (sets the output regardless of the input) in the
circuit
> to protect sensitive components.
I will endeavor to find internal components like the zener diode in my water
heater. BTW, I have tested the Toshiba TV/DVD in the Toyota with the engine
running and not running. The measurement was taken with the engine off.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 20:13:14 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Unplug the Univolt and check the voltage on that DC socket now while the TV
has video noise. Betcha it's less than 13.2, which is commonly the minimum
voltage on AC/DC TV's to run correctely. Your TV video noise is not unlike
dimming of a flashlight with low batteries. Hang in there!
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: My Airstream <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical woes
> Now the Toshiba TV/DVD goes on pretty normally, without loading down the
> circuits with other DC appliances. But when it plays it has a video noise
> bands every second or so and makes a humming sound. No problem when I
plug
> it into AC. No problem earlier. Suspect that the univolt is charging now
> but was dormant earlier ?!
>
> Still no luck getting hot water ignition on the RV-500.
> Joy wrote:
> > IMHO, most appliances have a wide range of operating voltage and most
> likely
> > have a zener diode (sets the output regardless of the input) in the
> circuit
> > to protect sensitive components.
>
> I will endeavor to find internal components like the zener diode in my
water
> heater. BTW, I have tested the Toshiba TV/DVD in the Toyota with the
engine
> running and not running. The measurement was taken with the engine off.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 22:03:19 -0500
From: "Paul P. Waddell" <balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Refrigerator Problems
On my project of the day a 1966 Overlander, I have found that the
refrigerator works
on the A/C side, but not on the LP side. At first it would not light. I
removed and
cleaned the burner tube. I was able to light it on the first turn of the
flint. Set
the fridge to the number 4 setting. The flame is nice and blue, but it
will not get
cold, even tried going to the number 9/ max setting.
Flipped it back to the A/C, cold in minutes. I always thought if it
worked on
A/C and you switch to gas and could get the flame to light, "should"
work on LP.
I now know I was wrong! Any ideas of what to do would be great. I would
hate to have to keep the generator running the whole time. I can see it
now, generator running, cord going from back of the truck to the back of
the Airstream and going down I-95 at 55mph all at the same time.
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC 1270
66 Overlander
70 23"LY single
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 22:16:44 EDT
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Eye torturing text
HELP!!! Is there any way to change a setting or something to keep the
messages from running together and eliminate all the <'s and >'s? I can
normally read the first couple messages, then everything runs together and
repeats. Please tell me this isn't normal, it's like self induced dyslexia!
My wife doesn't think the cross-eyed look is too attractive! :)
Thanks,
Jason
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 22:31:35 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Truck stops
Hi Guys,
Yes, we use truck stops to pick up and send email while traveling. They have
other services, too. We carry the directory with us in the cab.
http://www.truckstops.com/rvers.asp
We buy fuel there (1 cent gallon discount for RV Club members at Flying J
truckstops) and usually something from the store. Occasionally, we'll buy a
midnight snack or an early morning coffee and donut from their restaurant.
One particularly hot, sultry Kansas summer day last July, Sandie and I spent
$6 to have our own private shower in the middle of a driving marathon (800
miles to get home).
What I'm getting at is that although overnight parking is free, we spend
money when we stay at a truckstop.
Options everywhere,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 22:40:14 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Eye torturing text
Jason,
On my 10 year old Mac laptop running Outlook Express, there is a button in
the upper right corner called "rewrap." That's what I press when one of
those messages comes through. It cleans up text beautifully and makes it a
pleasure to read.
For all of you who have been tempted to install OS10.2 on their Mac, it's
almost done on my iBook. Next week, I should be confident enough with the
results to begin using it and retiring this old clunker again (with it's new
OS8.6 and other modern conveniences).
"The difference between the men and the boys is the restoration of all their
toys", so says me. <grin>
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 22:16:44 EDT
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Eye torturing text
>
> HELP!!! Is there any way to change a setting or something to keep the messages
> from running together and eliminate all the <'s and >'s? I can normally read
> the first couple messages, then everything runs together and repeats. Please
> tell me this isn't normal, it's like self induced dyslexia! My wife doesn't
> think the cross-eyed look is too attractive! :)
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 22:38:56 -0400
From: CURGUND@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: airstream classified ad
The following ad is in the Oct 3, 2002 OLD CARS newspaper:
1953 Airstream travel trailer 20 ft, good condition, $3200.00 OBO
248-624-1305 MI.
The ad contains a photo which reveals no apparent problems.
I have no personal interest in this trailer.
Curtis Gunderson
#31920 VAC
1972 21 Foot
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 21:53:01 -0500
From: lefty frizzell <leftyfrizzell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Unless a filtering cap in the univolt went south. That's one of the
symptoms of improper DC filtration.
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
****
I can only please one person per day.
Today is not your day.
Tomorrow is not looking too good either.
****
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
John R. Kleven
Sent: October 04, 2002 20:13
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical woes
Unplug the Univolt and check the voltage on that DC socket now while the
TV has video noise. Betcha it's less than 13.2, which is commonly the
minimum voltage on AC/DC TV's to run correctely. Your TV video noise is
not unlike dimming of a flashlight with low batteries. Hang in there!
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: My Airstream <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical woes
> Now the Toshiba TV/DVD goes on pretty normally, without loading down
> the circuits with other DC appliances. But when it plays it has a
> video noise bands every second or so and makes a humming sound. No
> problem when I
plug
> it into AC. No problem earlier. Suspect that the univolt is charging
> now but was dormant earlier ?!
>
> Still no luck getting hot water ignition on the RV-500.
> Joy wrote:
> > IMHO, most appliances have a wide range of operating voltage and
> > most
> likely
> > have a zener diode (sets the output regardless of the input) in the
> circuit
> > to protect sensitive components.
>
> I will endeavor to find internal components like the zener diode in my
water
> heater. BTW, I have tested the Toshiba TV/DVD in the Toyota with the
engine
> running and not running. The measurement was taken with the engine
> off.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
> text
>
>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 08:17:22 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 12v outlets
Howard: Tell me more about this 12v outlet. Sometimes I think I will
pull the whole cigarette lighter socket right out of the wall.
Daisy
Howard Lefkowitz wrote:
>
> Cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are notoriously unreliable. Your
> description describes a poor connection in the socket assembly. I had a
> similar problem with my portable computer running the delorme Mapping
> program. It would go on and off at weird times. I finally went to a
> separate plug connection using a two pin rubber connector that made a solid
> connection. No more problems. Cigarette lighter sockets work very well for
> the cigar lighter plugs. Wire directly through a proper fuse.
>
> Howard
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 10:31:34 -0400
From: "Judy Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Refer Help
I have a 1966 vintage Dometic that works great in the electric mode, but not
at all in the gas mode. The flame looks healthy, starting blue and going to
white/yellow. I can feel heat at the top of the chimney on the unit, so it
doesn't seem blocked.
Does anyone know what can cause this condition? And does anyone know how to
fix it?
Thank you,
Rick Langer
'66 GT, #3847,VAC,TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 11:02:52 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Refer Help
Rick,
Why don't you check out:
http://www.rvmobile.com?
They talk about exactly what you are describing.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------
> From: "Judy Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 10:31:34 -0400
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Refer Help
>
> I have a 1966 vintage Dometic that works great in the electric mode, but not
> at all in the gas mode. The flame looks healthy, starting blue and going to
> white/yellow. I can feel heat at the top of the chimney on the unit, so it
> doesn't seem blocked.
> Does anyone know what can cause this condition? And does anyone know how to
> fix it?
> Thank you,
> Rick Langer
> '66 GT, #3847,VAC,TCT
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 10:27:47 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Refer Help
Hi Judy,
Does the flame intensify when you shift from a low setting to a high
setting? The pilot doesn't light a burner like other appliances. The flame
just grows from the small pilot to a larger flame.
If the flame doesn't intensify, you may have a defective control. Check to
be sure that the control up front is actually operating something like a
proportional valve in the back. Since the pilot is working, it seems
logical that the regulator and thermocouple are working properly.
Just guesses,
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 13:47:23 -0400
From: Howard Lefkowitz <wa3vez@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 12v outlets
RadioShack has lots of Power Connectors which have a positive locking
device. They are polarized so you cannot plug them in backwards. Just
remove and discard the cig. lighter socket and wire in new connectors. You
are already fused and now you will have a positive connection. They are
sold separately so you can get several male plugs and one female. The
female should be used on the RV connection side. Even the smaller plugs
have 8 amp ratings. Get connectors which are rated at the highest current
you will be attaching. The cigarette lighter socket is usually fused at 20
amps.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daisy Welch" <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 8:17 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 12v outlets
> Howard: Tell me more about this 12v outlet. Sometimes I think I will
> pull the whole cigarette lighter socket right out of the wall.
>
> Daisy
>
> Howard Lefkowitz wrote:
> >
> > Cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are notoriously unreliable. Your
> > description describes a poor connection in the socket assembly. I had a
> > similar problem with my portable computer running the delorme Mapping
> > program. It would go on and off at weird times. I finally went to a
> > separate plug connection using a two pin rubber connector that made a
solid
> > connection. No more problems. Cigarette lighter sockets work very well
for
> > the cigar lighter plugs. Wire directly through a proper fuse.
> >
> > Howard
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 13:57:43 -0400
From: Howard Lefkowitz <wa3vez@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
A fully charged battery is from 12.6 to 12.75 volts. Right after charging
(with the charger removed) you can measure 13+ volts. This is will only
last a few minutes when you put a load on the battery (turn on a light). If
your device only works on 13+ volts forgetaboudit. It will never work on
your coach batteries since there are always other "sneak loads" which will
rapidly drop the voltage. Your car battery has no other loads so it will
stay up at 13 volts a lot longer. Still not a good situation. There are
switching type regulators that will provide a regulated output of 13+ volts
from a 12.0 or less source. Check the power requirement of the DVD and TV
and see what power is required to size a voltage regulator.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 8:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical woes
> Now the Toshiba TV/DVD goes on pretty normally, without loading down the
> circuits with other DC appliances. But when it plays it has a video noise
> bands every second or so and makes a humming sound. No problem when I
plug
> it into AC. No problem earlier. Suspect that the univolt is charging now
> but was dormant earlier ?!
>
> Still no luck getting hot water ignition on the RV-500.
> Joy wrote:
> > IMHO, most appliances have a wide range of operating voltage and most
> likely
> > have a zener diode (sets the output regardless of the input) in the
> circuit
> > to protect sensitive components.
>
> I will endeavor to find internal components like the zener diode in my
water
> heater. BTW, I have tested the Toshiba TV/DVD in the Toyota with the
engine
> running and not running. The measurement was taken with the engine off.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 15:00:18 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Problems
Paul. If the reefer cools on electric, it must cool on gas, provided that the
flame is "HOT" enough.
The flame should make a small "roaring noise." The LPG pressure could also be
low.
You can make a "manometer" with some clear plastic tubing, and check the
pressure then with that.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 15:49:09 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1865954841: Cyclo Buffer and Polisher Plus Accessory Pads
Ran across an auction for a Cyclo polisher on Ebay. Although it may be an
older model, it could be a good deal if the price isn't bit up too high. If
it gets too pricey, new Cyclo polishers can be bought at discount for $225.
My new Cyclo polisher is a Model 5 which may help identify the age of the
machine on Ebay. Somebody may need a Cyclo.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
>
> Title of item: Cyclo Buffer and Polisher Plus Accessory Pads
> Seller: paulpagliai2@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Starts: Oct-03-02 15:06:40 PDT
> Ends: Oct-10-02 15:06:40 PDT
> Price: Currently $78.00
> To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1865954841
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 19:22:25 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 12v outlets
Thanks
Daisy ( who just wired in a new Cig plug in the bedroom...)
Howard Lefkowitz wrote:
>
> RadioShack has lots of Power Connectors which have a positive locking
> device. They are polarized so you cannot plug them in backwards. Just
> remove and discard the cig. lighter socket and wire in new connectors. You
> are already fused and now you will have a positive connection. They are
> sold separately so you can get several male plugs and one female. The
> female should be used on the RV connection side. Even the smaller plugs
> have 8 amp ratings. Get connectors which are rated at the highest current
> you will be attaching. The cigarette lighter socket is usually fused at 20
> amps.
> Howard
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Daisy Welch" <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 8:17 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: 12v outlets
>
> > Howard: Tell me more about this 12v outlet. Sometimes I think I will
> > pull the whole cigarette lighter socket right out of the wall.
> >
> > Daisy
> >
> > Howard Lefkowitz wrote:
> > >
> > > Cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are notoriously unreliable. Your
> > > description describes a poor connection in the socket assembly. I had a
> > > similar problem with my portable computer running the delorme Mapping
> > > program. It would go on and off at weird times. I finally went to a
> > > separate plug connection using a two pin rubber connector that made a
> solid
> > > connection. No more problems. Cigarette lighter sockets work very well
> for
> > > the cigar lighter plugs. Wire directly through a proper fuse.
> > >
> > > Howard
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 16:35:01 -0700
From: "Kathy Hunt" <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Water lines
I am finally putting my Bambi back together and have been wondering about
the water lines.
Do I understand that some of you have used plastic in place of copper lines?
How do you like it? Also do I understand there is more flexibility when
freezing happens?
Come tell me about the options. Also is there a flexible materiel for the
gas lines?
Kathy #17792 "61 Bambi with new rear floor and refinished/restored
cabinets. Beautiful limd oak as was original
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End of VACList-Digest #446
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