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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, September 26, 2002 Issue 437
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
2. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
3. Re: Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
4. Re: Belly Pan Repair Methods
5. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
6. Re: Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
7. Test
8. Propane Valves
9. Re: Propane Valves
10. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
11. Re: Propane Valves
12. aluminum tank???
13. Re: aluminum tank???
14. Re: aluminum tank???
15. Re: aluminum tank???
16. Re: aluminum tank???
17. Re: aluminum tank???
18. Re: aluminum tank???
19. Zip Dee Questions
20. Flooring websites
21. Re: aluminum tank???
22. Re: aluminum tank???
23. Re: aluminum tank???
24. Re: aluminum tank???
25. Re: aluminum tank???
26. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 17:06:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Wilcox <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
--- Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Epoxy will not
> permanently stick to that
> plastic.
This is precisely what I wanted to find out. Thanks.
Joel
=====
******
Joel Wilcox
1966 Overlander
Tow: 1987 GMC Vandura 2500
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:23:11 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
My 53 Flying Cloud has two galvanized tubes running from the front to the
back.. When I got the trailer one had an awning and the other had the poles
for the awning.
Bob Patterson
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 17:33:45 -0700
From: "Dave Huffman" <huff@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:01:43 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
The standard airstream offering in the fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running fore & aft forward of
the wheels. It's made from thin galvanized sheet rolled into a tube and
fastened along the seam with formed caps. Our flying cloud has one, and
is being salvaged to reinstall. Couple of shots of it peeking out from
under the front here:
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/floyd_home.html
On the Caravel, I didn't think that the thin aluminum bumper compartment
could hold much weight? RJ '65 Caravel '57 Flying Cloud
------------------------------------------------
Interesting, thanks.
I agree that the Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
is not great, but I don't think I'll do it great harm by getting a pair of
spring arms out of the way while I'm in camp. I certainly would not think
of leaving any such weight in their while traveling. We boondock a fair bit
so I'd rather have the Sewer Hose stored in a separate tube.
Huff
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:40:02 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan Repair Methods
on 09/25/02 5:21 PM, drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> The folks with belly pan experience may have other ideas.
Hey Harley,
I'll bet you knew I'd chime in on this thread when Jim Greene wrote that
statement. Some openings I just can't pass up. Here goes:
1 - While you are thinking about how high to elevate your trailer, I suggest
adding these several ideas into the mix. They don't directly impact the
exact questions you asked, but they do impact the amount of effort you'll
end up using for this job.
If I'm correct in assuming you are the one doing the doing, then read on. If
you are not the one doing the doing, then ignore the rest of this.
Start by laying down on the floor on your back in your living room and raise
your hands up. Have your buddy measure the distance from the floor to your
wrists. Now do it again while laying on your side.
That's as high as you want the belly pan off the floor. It's almost too
high. Any higher and you'll be spending a good share of your time under the
trailer - reaching up (almost as high as you can reach).
Reaching means you'll have limited purchase to exert upward force (push)
while holding the belly pan in place and while using your electric drill
getting the old rivets to release themselves and while using the rivet gun
(as when reattaching the belly pan). IMHO, every time purchase is
decreased, strength has to be increased (while mean fatigue sets in sooner).
2 - While you are still in the thinking stage, I suggest you make up a
cushion with something - anything, even two pieces of 2X4X12 nailed together
with a piece of carpet stapled to them. This little "cushion" is for your
head when laying on your back or on your side while underneath the trailer.
Before you laugh out loud, experiment by laying on your back on the living
room floor and holding your head up off the floor for 10 minutes. Then,
decide if that's what you want to be doing while laying under your trailer
for an hour or so as you crane your neck to see what you're doing while
reattaching the belly pan and anything else you have to deal with under
there.
3 - If you wear trifocals, you may want to spring for a new pair of glasses
with the usual trifocals in the lower section and bifocals in the upper
section near your eyebrows. These are commonly made for men who work in the
building trades at jobs which require a lot of reaching over their heads to
do the job. These men ask the optometrist for the "executive" or "golf" lens
which goes across the upper section (not the little bullet bifocals). The
center section is for distance and driving and finding the beer can in the
fridge.
Before you laugh out loud at this suggestion, experiment by holding your
hand over your head and looking through the top of your glasses, while
holding a pop rivet gun (with rivet in it) and trying to line up the rivet
with the tiny moon in your pinkie. Now do it again with poorer lighting and
dust falling on your face (that's what will occur each time you touch the
belly pan).
When reattaching the belly pan, not only will you drill new holes for each
pop rivet (in spite of you believing you'll be able to lineup the old holes
the way they were when you drilled them out and lowered the pan), but each
pop rivet will need to be placed directly into the hole without delay every
time. Why? The more time spent fussing around trying to find the hole and
making it sure it is aligned with the other piece of aluminum, the faster
your arms will become tired and more tired (and less likely to find the
right hole on the first try).
Although I have not used all 500 pop rivets in the box I bought, I didn't
have to go the hardware store to buy more - while in the middle of the job.
A word to the wise. These few ideas were learned the hard way when I dropped
my Airstream's belly pan the first time.
The second time, I was better prepared, i.e. four vice grips instead of one
to hold the overlapping edges tightly (and aligned) while using the pop
rivet gun; a jumpsuit so floor sweepings didn't get under my shirt and rub
skin off my shoulders; two trouble lights instead of one so I didn't have to
look at shadows all the time; four bottle jacks and two long pieces of wood
to hold the belly pan evenly in place instead of none (and having to wrestle
each piece into place by hand to keep it aligned); and finally, having two
pop rivet guns for the inevitable time when one jams and I take it apart to
unjam it only to drop one of the pieces and spend the next half hour
searching for it.
When I look back on my two experiences with the belly pan, it seems
hilarious. But, at the time (105 degrees on a dirt floor with a chain hoist
holding the rear end up in the air with the wheels still touching the
ground), I was not my usual enthusiastic self.
Since then, additional work has been done under the trailer (belly pan
lowered), but I hired out the job. And, I bought a new section of belly pan
to replace the old swiss cheese piece.
Have fun, <grin> --- almost laughing.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:38:04 -0400
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Joel,
If your tank is "plastic" it is most likely rotomolded polyethylene. Andy
could confirm this. Polyethylene is weldable. It can not be repaired with
anything other than the material it is made out of. Some polyethylene
welders are ultrasonic and some are glorified soldering irons with a hole in
the tip to allow polyethylene rods to be used as filler during the welding
process. You should check for plastic tank manufacturers in your area. These
places often do repair work. A lot a of bodyshops use this type of welder to
repair bumper covers on modern cars. They may be able to help out as well.
Which ever route you take make sure the weld is more than just a mild
skinning over of the crack. If the weld is inferior it may hold in water for
a while but will probably split over time.
Good luck with it,
Colin Hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Wilcox" <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:06 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
> --- Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> > Epoxy will not
> > permanently stick to that
> > plastic.
>
> This is precisely what I wanted to find out. Thanks.
>
> Joel
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 22:04:52 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
The bottom of the rear bumper compartment seems to be just a sheet of
aluminum riveted on in a few places, OK for the shore cord and the
stinky slinky, but I'm not sure the arms would be OK.
Daisy
Dave Huffman wrote:
>
> Message Number: 17
> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:01:43 -0700
> From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
> The standard airstream offering in the fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
> about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running fore & aft forward of
> the wheels. It's made from thin galvanized sheet rolled into a tube and
> fastened along the seam with formed caps. Our flying cloud has one, and
> is being salvaged to reinstall. Couple of shots of it peeking out from
> under the front here:
> http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/floyd_home.html
> On the Caravel, I didn't think that the thin aluminum bumper compartment
> could hold much weight? RJ '65 Caravel '57 Flying Cloud
> ------------------------------------------------
> Interesting, thanks.
> I agree that the Weight-holding capacity of Caravel rear bumper compartment
> is not great, but I don't think I'll do it great harm by getting a pair of
> spring arms out of the way while I'm in camp. I certainly would not think
> of leaving any such weight in their while traveling. We boondock a fair bit
> so I'd rather have the Sewer Hose stored in a separate tube.
> Huff
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 10:17:10 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Test
Test - Sorry for the intrusion.....
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:07:43 -0400
From: "Thomas LaVergne" <tlavergne@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Propane Valves
Has anyone changed their own valves to the new style propane valves? It
appears to be straight forward...old one out (empty tank of course), pipe
thread dope on new valve, screw it in and check for leaks. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Thomas '78 Ambassador
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 12:18:42 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Propane Valves
Yeah! You need heavy mechanical advantage to remove and screw down the
valve. I saw it done by a professional. He had double tie buckle belts
to hold the tank down. The lever used to remove and tighten the valve
was approximately a four foot length of pipe. Other than those details,
it is as straightforward as you say.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas LaVergne
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Propane Valves
Has anyone changed their own valves to the new style propane valves?
It appears to be straight forward...old one out (empty tank of course),
pipe thread dope on new valve, screw it in and check for leaks. Any
thoughts? Thanks.
Thomas '78 Ambassador
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 12:56:21 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
Someone contacted me off list and said their original under belly
installation looks like stove pipe. As I was leaving the house this
AM, I noticed our dryer vent ducting in the garage, same 4 inch stuff!
I bet they even make end caps for it. At least it answers the question
what to use for replacement or retro installation where original
appearance matters.
Bob, I've seen most people carry the canvas portion of the awning in
the trailer in the underbed compartments to prevent mildew and moisture
damage from the elements.
later,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 5:23 PM
> To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
> My 53 Flying Cloud has two galvanized tubes running from the
> front to the
> back.. When I got the trailer one had an awning and the other
> had the poles
> for the awning.
> Bob Patterson
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:16:51 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Propane Valves
You might have trouble having them filled unless the OPD valves are
installed by a certified company. If the tanks are old (The date of
manufacture should be stamped in the metal) and they have new valves,
there is supposed to be a sticker from the company that installed them
placed on the bottle. I would check with your local gas company first.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 13:36:11 -0700
From: Rivka <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: aluminum tank???
ok this is to date the stupidest i have have felt dealing with my airstreams!
on my '74 i was originally told by the seller that the tanks were
steel replacements, she said she bought it that way. Now i look at
them and think that they are aluminum, they don't seem to be painted,
so the lack of rust leads me to this conclusion. how do i tell, the
metal make up is not stamp on them and i have no idea what they
should weigh, since i have no idea how much propane is in them.
wow i feel dumb, but i need to know since if they are alum. i would
spring for the dough to get the valves changed.
--
Rivka and Her Girls
"Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador - Blissfully Boondocked
& "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander - City Girl, Mid Makeover
"A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." -- Lao Tzu
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:17:18 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
Rivka,
Try a magnet.
Colin Hyde
From: "Rivka" <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] aluminum tank???
> ok this is to date the stupidest i have have felt dealing with my
airstreams!
>
> on my '74 i was originally told by the seller that the tanks were
> steel replacements, she said she bought it that way. Now i look at
> them and think that they are aluminum, they don't seem to be painted,
> so the lack of rust leads me to this conclusion. how do i tell, the
> metal make up is not stamp on them and i have no idea what they
> should weigh, since i have no idea how much propane is in them.
>
> wow i feel dumb, but i need to know since if they are alum. i would
> spring for the dough to get the valves changed.
>
> --
> Rivka and Her Girls
> "Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador - Blissfully Boondocked
> & "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander - City Girl, Mid Makeover
>
> "A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." --
Lao Tzu
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:12:29 -0600
From: Maxwell <maxwell@insideout-design.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
Rivka wrote:
> Now i look at them and think that they are aluminum, they don't seem
> to be painted, so the lack of rust leads me to this conclusion. how do
> i tell, the metal make up is not stamp on them and i have no idea what
> they should weigh, since i have no idea how much propane is in them.
I would think that someone who is able to fill them or change the valves
would be able to tell you. Just take them by and see what they say...
--
Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC
www.InsideOut-Design.net/Maxwell
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:13:38 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
Find a magnet, like a refrigerator magnet. It won't stick to the
aluminum tank, it will stick to the steel tank. End of test.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 14:29:42 -0700
From: Rivka <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
Well that was easy, like i said, sometimes there is stupid questions.
Well im happy i have two Worthington aluminum tanks, and if im
reading the stamps correctly, they were made one each in may and
june of 1973, that would probably make them original to the trailer!
Does anyone know anything about this brand Worthington? Did airstream
use it as original equip.?
--
Rivka and Her Girls
"Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador
& "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander
"A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." -- Lao Tzu
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 16:42:06 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
They are arguably the best. Hang on to them and spring for the OPD valves.
Have them professionally installed.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 14:42:32 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
How about a magnet? If it does not stick it's probably aluminum. Also
aluminum tanks have thicker handles and bases than steel tanks. With steel
the material is very thin and relies on a curling form to create a handle.
With aluminum that is not the case.
Pick up an empty steel tank at your local LP Gas store and then PU your
emply tank. The aluminum is VERY light by comparison. If you haven't
satisfied yourself with these tests, ask your LP Gas person. They'll know.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rivka" <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] aluminum tank???
> ok this is to date the stupidest i have have felt dealing with my
airstreams!
>
> on my '74 i was originally told by the seller that the tanks were
> steel replacements, she said she bought it that way. Now i look at
> them and think that they are aluminum, they don't seem to be painted,
> so the lack of rust leads me to this conclusion. how do i tell, the
> metal make up is not stamp on them and i have no idea what they
> should weigh, since i have no idea how much propane is in them.
>
> wow i feel dumb, but i need to know since if they are alum. i would
> spring for the dough to get the valves changed.
>
> --
> Rivka and Her Girls
> "Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador - Blissfully Boondocked
> & "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander - City Girl, Mid Makeover
>
> "A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." --
Lao Tzu
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 14:46:12 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Zip Dee Questions
All that is left of the original awning on my 66 Safari is a 12 ft. long
overhead track and two bottom brackets. I would like to put a stock Zip Dee
on the coach. Does anybody have any suggestions on how best to pull this
off?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:56:51 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Flooring websites
Has anyone found a good online retailer source for sheet vinyl flooring? I
have been searching the web and getting too many hits...most are no help.
I'd appreciate the link if anyone has a good one.
Nick CT
'68 Safari
WBCCI #2577 "Join Today!"
WDCU
VAC
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:55:46 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
You might check to see or call the place where you'd fill up these tanks and
find out IF they need to be recertified. If you have the 'new' type
overfill valves good, if not you might need to have them installed as well.
Some states let you 'get away with' not replacing the valves, like South
Carolina for instance. However, an LP dealer in South Carolina may
independently require the 'new' type valves.
Testing of the structure of the tank is done hydrostatically, that is it is
done in a water bath with pressure in the tanks to prove the integrity of
the tank. You should have some sort of new certification date stamped into
the metal of the tank. If this is not done and an LP dealer looks for it
you might find yourself out of gas with an "uncertified" tank due to the
original date of when the tanks were made.
I've run into this exact problem before, tanks *out of date* and had to go
to the real gas company to have my tanks water bath tested (hydrostatic) and
then they were 'recertified' for another length of time after which they'd
have to be re-tested all over again.
Tom Meeker
WBCCI 5303
From: "Rivka" <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAC] Re: aluminum tank???
> Well that was easy, like i said, sometimes there is stupid questions.
>
> Well im happy i have two Worthington aluminum tanks, and if im
> reading the stamps correctly, they were made one each in may and
> june of 1973, that would probably make them original to the trailer!
>
> Does anyone know anything about this brand Worthington? Did airstream
> use it as original equip.?
>
> --
> Rivka and Her Girls
> "Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador
> & "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 18:00:14 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
Aluminum alloy has to be 3x (3 times) as thick as steel to do the same job
it was intended for. At even three times as thick (example: 30/1000ths
aluminum vs 10/1000ths steel) the aluminum is lighter in weight. This is
the same reason that wheels and other things are made of aluminum alloy
rather that steel.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Also
> aluminum tanks have thicker handles and bases than steel tanks. With
steel
> the material is very thin and relies on a curling form to create a handle.
> With aluminum that is not the case.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 18:12:06 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
on 09/26/02 5:42 PM, jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> They are arguably the best. Hang on to them and spring for the OPD valves.
> Have them professionally installed.
> Randy
>
Ditto - even if you have to pay $25 apiece for the OPD valves and
installation.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 18:35:12 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
> I've run into this exact problem before, tanks *out of date* and had to go
> to the real gas company to have my tanks water bath tested (hydrostatic)
and
> then they were 'recertified' for another length of time after which they'd
> have to be re-tested all over again.
Another good reason to buy aluminum as most (not all) propane suppliers
simply visually check to make sure the tanks are not "rust buckets" before
they fill them. In addition to SC, AL did not sign on to the OPD law.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:35:14 -0500
From: Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum tank???
on 9/26/02 4:55 PM, Tom at tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com wrote:
> I've run into this exact problem before, tanks *out of date* and had to go
> to the real gas company to have my tanks water bath tested (hydrostatic) and
> then they were 'recertified' for another length of time after which they'd
> have to be re-tested all over again.
I know there's been lots of press about this OPD valve stuff lately, and I
know the testing Tom describes is supposed to be done periodically.
But I hauled my original 1976 tanks down to my local LP dealer last week
before a aunt to the beach and had them filled, no questions asked. I
imagine we're at least as lax about this sort of thing in NC as in SC (which
Tom mentions), but what's the scoop? Is this all a conspiracy among propane
dealers to sell stuff or are there actual state (maybe federal?) laws that
require I get testing and the new valves?
Thanks for the input; apologies for the ignorance.
Greg
--
Greg Hankins ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Happy Hank's Honey House Mt. Gilead, NC
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 19:55:42 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
So , anybody got the short story on where support jacks should be when
removing inner sheetmetal ?
----- Chris ----- too late for me - mine are where they usually go when
camping - for and aft - " winging it " on my flying cloud with not a lick of skin
on the interior
> ===================================================
> When the interior sheetmetal is completely removed, with proper support jacks
> in the right places, contrary to opinion, the shell shape will not change. We
> do that in our shop, many times a year, and with trailers from 1936 to 1998.
> There are many things that can be done with a monocoque or semi-monocoque
> constructed shell, as Airstream uses, when you know how. However, "winging
> it," is not one of them.
>
> How to do it, step by step, would require a book to be written, because of
> the "if's and's and but's," along with what years, lengths, etc.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
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>
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