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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Wednesday, September 25, 2002 Issue 436
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Andy 1966 Window breakage prevention
2. Re: 62 dump valve fitting
3. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
4. Re: Electrical Mystery Part II
5. Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
6. Re: Axles
7. Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
8. Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
9. Re: Andy 1966 Window breakage prevention
10. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
11. Re: TV swing shelf?
12. Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
13. Re: 1966 Window breakage prevention
14. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
15. Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
16. Re: Places to stay in S.F.?
17. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
18. Welcome back
19. flooring replacement
20. 2 questions
21. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
22. Re: 2 questions
23. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
24. Re: 2 questions
25. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
26. Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
27. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
28. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
29. Re: 1966 Window breakage prevention
30. Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
31. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
32. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
33. Re: 62 dump valve fitting
34. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
35. Re: Electrical Mystery
36. Re: Electrical Mystery Part II
37. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
38. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
39. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
40. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
41. Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
42. Re: protecting glass on a 66-68
43. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
44. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
45. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
46. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
47. Re: protecting glass on a 66-68
48. *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
49. Belly Pan Repair Methods
50. Wiring Diagrams of 1971 Safari
51. Re: *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
52. Vintage Tow Vehicle
53. Re: Belly Pan Repair Methods
54. Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
55. Re: *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
56. Re: Wiring Diagrams of 1971 Safari
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:07:32 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Andy 1966 Window breakage prevention
Tom. All windows are available from 1969 and up. However most of the clear
glass windows are not. That means that a window for your 69 may now be solar
gray. I am not aware of any opening type window on any Airstream that costs
around $200.00.
Also we had a customer in Canada receive a poorly made window from Airstream.
Thanks to e-mail photo's that problem was quickly solved.
In your case, did the window come from Airstream, or perhaps did the dealer
attempt to fabricate one?
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:09:51 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: 62 dump valve fitting
Evans. Fittings for the "brass" valve have not been available for over 30
years. There are a number of people trying to hunt them down.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:20:01 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Rivka and the girls. Stripping the vinyl from the walls is almost an
impossible task. You can remove the interior metal and use it as a pattern
for new metal of your choice.
HOWEVER. CAUTION CAUTION.
If you do not properly support the trailer prior to removal, you will never
get new metal back into the same holes. Removing the interior or the exterior
destroys, in part, the shell to retain it's "load bearing" qualities.
Therefore careful placement of stabilizing jacks is extremely important.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:24:01 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Mystery Part II
Yosef. Schematics are not available. Take the trailer to a good Airstream
service center, that has been around for a while, and they will fix it, and
probably, cheaper than you think.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 17:30:22 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
My sources say it was a Calgary buyer, and a US buyer came in second at
$31,000 CDN, and depending on what days' exchange rate you use, that's
about $21,500-$22,000 US.
An airstream knowledgeable attendee reports that the condition was
original & sound - other than the one dent. No word on the systems - it
was not self-contained just as we had guessed.
A '57 Bubble just sold local here for $19,000 in mostly original
condition and well maintained condition, and I just helped broker the
sale of a very nicely restored 22' 1963 Flying Cloud for $17,800.
I know many of you scoff, but it's no BS, originality pays well...
Funny part is, the dark vinyl wood grain and avocado green of the 1973+
trailers is starting to attract a strong following even (a product of
the'70's, I can't stand the stuff :>)
10-15 years from now, I can just see people slathering all over a '70's
trailer, too.
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/rr_topics_pricevscondition.html
Fun stuff, huh?
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
On Tuesday, September 24, 2002, at 04:03 PM, Terry O'Neill wrote:
> Hi Cindy
> Any word on where the purchaser of the 55 Flying Cloud is from? I was
> unable
> to attend the auction due to another commitment but would love a chance
> to
> see it in person.
>
> Take Care
> Terry O'Neill
> Calgary
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:48:13 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Axles
Airstream and Argosy trailers were designed to work with the
characteristics
of the Henschen axles. To use another type axle, will alter that design. You
basically are on your own since no one has ever attempted to use a brand "X"
axle, assuming, they can make one that fits correctly, on any Airstream
product trailer.
We note with interest the number of parts that Southwest uses, and that you
can adjust it several ways. What an invitation to disaster, for someone not
up on preventive maintenance. Too many moving parts!
They are also unproven as to what vibrations will be transmitted to the frame
of an Airstream, if, the running gear is not properly balanced. No test of
time data available. Hmmm. Risky venture ?
If they were better, Airstream would have used them years ago.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:53:07 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
Does that mean I need to save the shades with the gold fringe on them ?
Daisy
> Funny part is, the dark vinyl wood grain and avocado green of the 1973+
> trailers is starting to attract a strong following even (a product of
> the'70's, I can't stand the stuff :>)
> 10-15 years from now, I can just see people slathering all over a '70's
> trailer, too.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:47:37 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
Maybe my walnut parquet interior and red velvet upholstery and drapes may be
in????
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:00:50 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Andy 1966 Window breakage prevention
> Tom. All windows are available from 1969 and up. However most of the
> clear
> glass windows are not. That means that a window for your 69 may now be
solar
> gray. I am not aware of any opening type window on any Airstream that
costs
> around $200.00.
> Also we had a customer in Canada receive a poorly made window from
Airstream.
> Thanks to e-mail photo's that problem was quickly solved.
> In your case, did the window come from Airstream, or perhaps did the
dealer
> attempt to fabricate one?
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
Hi Andy,
The part for my 1969 Int Ambassador was ordered through Out-of-doors Mart in
Greensboro, NC. The order was shipped *directly to me from Airstream*.
After opening up the shipping carton I was pretty upset to see that
Airstream of all places would ever allow this to happen. All I can think of
is that someone without experience made this piece. To have aluminum drill
shavings sticking to the paper covering the window itself was distressing in
itself. To have mis-drilled holes and plugged holes was pretty bad. For
anyone to have shipped out a product like this to anyone is beyond me.
When I built airplanes work such as this would never pass the inspectors
eyes. This one shouldn't have either. Then again, maybe the factory had it
shipped to them and Airstream never looked at it either? Hard for me to
believe but I guess anything was possible.
Needless to say, I called Out-of-doors Mart, explained the problem and it
was shipped back to Airstream. I haven't tried to order another *original*
Airstream window since. Please send me your *private* email address and
phone number, I'd appreciate your help in solving my problem.
Tom Meeker
tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
WBCCI 5303
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:11:06 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Stripping vinyl off '74 wallsJim,
Unless the ribs and such are braced so they don't move you should never
attempt the removal of sheetmetal such as the inside or outside skin for
that matter.
The Airstream monocoque construction is what gives this architectual
design strength. It's sort of like trying to squeeze an egg in one
hand, it can be done under lots of pressure although I've never tried
that before either. I have built airplanes and repaired more than I
care to remember. Once taken fully apart it's highly unlikely all the
parts would fit again like they did originally.
Also, it's impossible to use one sheet of aluminum skin on another side
and expect it to fit.
Tom
I don't know how well the vinyl is attached to the inner skin on a '
74 Airstream but on a ' 68 model it's on to stay. I suspect it would be
faster to take off the inner panels and start over. It might work to
turn the panels over and reattach "wrong side out." Polishing the
outside skin is as much polishing as I want to do.
Jim Greene
' 68 TradewindOverlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:22:33 -0500
From: Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: TV swing shelf?
on 9/23/02 6:18 PM, Jeffrey Engle at bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hi, gang!
> I'm looking for the TV swing shelf, don't need the wood shelf
> necessarily, (I can make that myself) just the piece that mounts to the
> wall, (hopefully not to expensive) thanks, Jeff & Daile (part # 380106,
> for those of you who have shop manuals...and yes I know Radio shack has
> one but I want original equipment)
>
Jeffrey,
What model Airstream do you have?
Greg
--
Greg Hankins ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Happy Hank's Honey House Mt. Gilead, NC
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:49:26 -0500
From: Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
on 9/24/02 7:30 PM, Webmaster at webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Funny part is, the dark vinyl wood grain and avocado green of the 1973+
> trailers is starting to attract a strong following even (a product of
> the'70's, I can't stand the stuff :>)
> 10-15 years from now, I can just see people slathering all over a '70's
> trailer, too.
>
What I love about my '76's interior is the way the curvy wrap-around vinyl
above the gaucho in the front, along with all the curved tambour doors on
the overhead makes it feel like that first Delta jetliner I rode in, round
about 1967. (Yeah, I got the cockpit tour and the wings.)
Birch cabinetry is great, but, face it, vinyl and aluminum were meant for
each other!
Greg
'76 Trade Wind
--
Greg Hankins ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Happy Hank's Honey House Mt. Gilead, NC
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:54:21 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1966 Window breakage prevention
Hey Andy,
Has anyone tried to use the same kind of glass, the 1/8 inch tempered
un-curved to replace the window? I was told by a glass company in
Mitchell SD that because it's so thin that it might conform to the
slight curve in the side window on my 68. We had one blown out on our
way to International this year and stuck a piece of plexi to get home. I
will now replace it with something other than what is in it now.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 11:44 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: 1966 Window breakage prevention
To all VAC members.
Plexiglass is not intended for exterior use. The UV from the sun will
shortly
cause it to crack and craze, but it's cheap and readily available.
After considerable research, we came up with a plastic material called
"ACRYLITE."
Without a metal frame, it will, when exposed to the sun for a period of
time,
take on the contour of the sides.
An improvement was developed and applied to this same material, that now
can
be scrubbed with steel wool, and not be scratched. It's the same
chemical
that is used on plastic eyeglass lenses.
The new name for this material is called "Acrylite AR-2," and is
available in
"clear' only. It's not cheap, but it does perform very well. We have
sold
over 1000 of them, without a single problem. You can also add to it's
strength by installing stainless steel moldings on the edges as
Airstream did
in 1968, and are now available as well.
We have sold over 1000 of them, without a single problem.
Unfortunately, you must buy a 4 x 8 sheet, or find someone that has the
window replacements cut to size.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:08:27 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Hello,
I just finished stripping the interior panels of my 59 Traveler, they
were painted. I like the look but sure did not like the work; all in all
I have about 20 hours in stripping and panel removal. I would think to
get the wallpaper covering off you could us a heat gun and the remaining
goo cleaned off with lacquer thinner leaving a clean looking silver
panel like the ones I now have.
Ed
WBCCI 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Rivka
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 1:18 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
So seeing as that im both a gluten for punishment as are most of us, and
if i have to go to bed looking at beige many more nights i might scream,
heres the challenge:
I want bare aluminum walls.
do i
1. take all my inside panels off while i have my interior stripped, and
try to strip them in someway? I have the vinyl? wallpaper on them now is
this possible and will the aluminum every look good?
or
2. Use the pieces to cut new aluminum to go back in? will i every get it
to fit?
which way do you all think is easier in the long run, cost vs time? this
is probably going to be my undoing!
BTW i finally settled on her name "Belladonna" seems only fitting
after reading the following quote: Belladonna
In Italian, a beautiful lady; in English, a deadly poison. A striking
example of the essential identity of the two tongues.
--
Rivka and Her Girls
"Destiny" a '66 Airstream Ambassador
& "Belladonna", a '74 Airstream Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:35:03 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: flying cloud at Alberta Auction
I think so. Now if you were to add some nautical features, paint the
chassis red & put a genset on the tongue, then it would be all set!
Take care Jim,
RJ
On Tuesday, September 24, 2002, at 06:47 PM, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> Maybe my walnut parquet interior and red velvet upholstery and drapes
> may be in????
> Jim Smith
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:56:44 -0700
From: dave <millbrae@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Places to stay in S.F.?
Bob if all vintage airstream trailers looked like yours I don't think sites
would have a problem excepting them to the sites. I think the biggest
problem most site owners have with the older airstreams is the rundown look
they have. If the owners would keep their trailers polished sites wouldn't
be so snobbish towards the older units and it would raise the value of
their trailer. I see lots of trailers out there on the road or in storage
that look like they were just resurfaced from being underwater for a
hundred years.
dave
At 12:09 PM 9/24/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> Dave wrote:
>> You shouldn't have trouble getting into one of the trailer
>> parks in Redwood City, for a few day they didn't have a problem, but
>> for
>> semi-permanent monthly parking one of the would allow an Airstream if
>> it
>> was older than 10 years.
>
> This is the same discrimination that I have seen in San Diego. It is
> ironic
> that Hollywood keeps seeking out vintage Airstream coaches for
> commercials
> and shows while trailer parks think of these same Airstreams as less
> than
> desirable. Go figure! Seems like there is some PR to be done with
> park
> owners and managers.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:01:43 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
The standard airstream offering in the fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running fore & aft forward of
the wheels. It's made from thin galvanized sheet rolled into a tube and
fastened along the seam with formed caps. Our flying cloud has one, and
is being salvaged to reinstall. Couple of shots of it peeking out from
under the front here:
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/floyd_home.html
On the Caravel, I didn't think that the thin aluminum bumper compartment
could hold much weight?
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
On Monday, September 23, 2002, at 10:57 PM, Dave Huffman wrote:
> Now that I know a bit more about Univolts (I guess I don't have one),
> let's
> try one I've brought up before... Mounting a Sewer Hose Tube under the
> chassis.
> I'd like to use the rear bumper storage for the likes of Spring Bar
> storage when I unhook the tow car. I got some advice on this earlier
> this
> summer, but that unfortunately resides on another computer. Camping
> World
> has a kit up to about 5' length, but I eyeballed my Caravel width at
> more
> like 8' +.
> Seems like a 5 or 6" PVC tube can be cut to length, capped at each
> end
> (removable of course), and strapped? to the frame under the trailer at
> each
> end of the tube.
> Any suggestions? Looks a bit roomier behind the wheels than in
> front of
> them.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 00:22:04 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Welcome back
on 09/24/02 11:39 AM, frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com wrote:
> Fran here again with the life-long AS restoration project again. One
> of my
> friends told me the moment turn the wrench for the last time and finish
> everything, I will die and it will become my aluminum casket. Funny =and
> probably true ...
Hey Hey Fran,
Welcome back. It's good to see you are still working at it. One of these
days both are going to be at the same rally and get to meet each other in
person.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 02:34:27 -0500
From: "Jeffrey Miller" <bsshrink@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: flooring replacement
I'm just finishing a flooring job on my 69 Overlander . I used Bruce
oak parquet tiles (in the Chestnut stain) which matched & lightened the
darker walnut cabinets. IMHO it looks great, was inexpensive ($200-300),
labor intensive, tough as nails & easily procured at Lowe's or Home Despot.
I chose this over cork for availability in a limited time window, over
Pergo for weight & money issues. Contact me off list & ask if you want
photos & I'll "tell you where the stumps are" as they say. You would need
a band saw or be very good with a jigsaw to do this quickly
Jeff Miller
69 Overbudget
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 06:11:24 -0500
From: "Duane Wells" <dw44405@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 2 questions
I have 2 questions. Hope that is allright. The first one is: Is there
anyone in southcentral Nebraska that has a airstream trailer that we
could compare notes,etc. with? The 2nd question is: Does anyone know how
to take out the tambour door in the bathroom under the sink and fix it
so we can take a shower in there? Thank you, Marie
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:44:14 -0500
From: Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
on 9/24/02 11:01 PM, Webmaster at webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> The standard airstream offering in the fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
> about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running fore & aft forward of
> the wheels.
RJ,
This was offered specifically as an option for sewer hose storage, yes?
Greg
--
Greg Hankins ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Happy Hank's Honey House Mt. Gilead, NC
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 08:50:25 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 2 questions
Hi Marie,
I wish I was in Nebraska !
What year, model do you have ?
In general, taking out the tambour requires disassembling the whole sink
area, can be done, requires drilling out a lot of rivets, and looking
for screws in hidden places, not to mention disconnecting the sink.
Does the tambour keep the water out ? My 73'tambour would turn to mush
if it got wet. You might find it easier to make a mini shower curtain
for the door and anything else that wouldn't like to get wet.
Anyway, that's what this list is FOR, asking questions, so fire away !
Daisy Stuck in Massachusetts
> Duane Wells wrote:
>
> I have 2 questions. Hope that is allright. The first one is: Is there
> anyone in southcentral Nebraska that has a airstream trailer that we
> could compare notes,etc. with? The 2nd question is: Does anyone know
> how to take out the tambour door in the bathroom under the sink and
> fix it so we can take a shower in there? Thank you, Marie
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 05:53:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
I've got 2 tubes under mine - both stock.
toby
--- Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> on 9/24/02 11:01 PM, Webmaster at
> webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
>> The standard airstream offering in the
> fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
>> about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running
> fore & aft forward of
>> the wheels.
>
> RJ,
>
> This was offered specifically as an option for sewer
> hose storage, yes?
>
> Greg
>
> --
> Greg Hankins ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Happy Hank's Honey House Mt. Gilead, NC
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
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New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 08:55:38 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 2 questions
on 09/25/02 7:11 AM, dw44405@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
I have 2 questions. Hope that is allright. The first one is: Is there anyone
in southcentral Nebraska that has a airstream trailer that we could compare
notes,etc. with? The 2nd question is: Does anyone know how to take out the
tambour door in the bathroom under the sink and fix it so we can take a
shower in there? Thank you, Marie
Marie,
On my Airstreams, removal of the tambour door requires unscrewing the half
circle curved piece of aluminum that houses the tambour when the door is
opened.
Once that curved piece is free, the tambour material is easily accessible.
There may be others on the list who have a different set up. I'm sure
they'll reply.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:05:03 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
I have the same thing on my 59 Ambassador International however there are
two (about 6' long each) and they are mounted transverse just ahead of the
front axle. They are held on with aluminum straps (cut from excess skin
material)riveted to the belly pan.
Colin Hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International
----- Original Message -----
From: "Webmaster" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
> The standard airstream offering in the fifties/early '60's was a 4" tube
> about 8' long mounted to the belly skin running fore & aft forward of
> the wheels. It's made from thin galvanized sheet rolled into a tube and
> fastened along the seam with formed caps. Our flying cloud has one, and
> is being salvaged to reinstall. Couple of shots of it peeking out from
> under the front here:
> http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/floyd_home.html
>
> On the Caravel, I didn't think that the thin aluminum bumper compartment
> could hold much weight?
>
> RJ
> '65 Caravel
> '57 Flying Cloud
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 07:06:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Wilcox <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Hi everyone. It appears that the black water holding
tank on my '66 Overlander is fiberglass and looking
down through the back area as I run water into it I
can see the crack where it is leaking. (Ugh.)
My question: Is it feasible to remove this tank
without completely wrecking it? Secondly, is it
feasible to repair and replace it and expect to get a
couple decades of use out of it, or would it be better
to cough up the $400 and just buy new?
TIA,
Joel
=====
******
Joel Wilcox
1966 Overlander
Tow: 1987 GMC Vandura 2500
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------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:27:08 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Joel,
I'm afraid I'm not up on removal of black water tanks of 66's however if it
went in, it should come out. I am somewhat experienced with fiberglass
repair and yes you can repair it for a lot less than purchasing a new one.
You will probably have to remove it though to do a quality repair.
Colin Hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Wilcox" <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:06 AM
Subject: [VAC] Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
> Hi everyone. It appears that the black water holding
> tank on my '66 Overlander is fiberglass and looking
> down through the back area as I run water into it I
> can see the crack where it is leaking. (Ugh.)
>
> My question: Is it feasible to remove this tank
> without completely wrecking it? Secondly, is it
> feasible to repair and replace it and expect to get a
> couple decades of use out of it, or would it be better
> to cough up the $400 and just buy new?
>
> TIA,
> Joel
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:49:03 -0400
From: corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Corbin C Bates)
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Is the tank cracked or does it have a punture hole in it. If it is a
cracked I believe that you will want to drill a hole at each end of the
crack to stop it from fracturing more. What the hole does is it removes
the stress that the fracture places on the
Corbin
Have trailer will travel...
"chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net> wrote:
> Joel,
> I'm afraid I'm not up on removal of black water tanks of 66's however
> if it
> went in, it should come out. I am somewhat experienced with fiberglass
> repair and yes you can repair it for a lot less than purchasing a new
> one.
> You will probably have to remove it though to do a quality repair.
> Colin Hyde
> 57 Sovereign of the Road
> 59 Ambassador International
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joel Wilcox" <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:06 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
>
>
>> Hi everyone. It appears that the black water holding
>> tank on my '66 Overlander is fiberglass and looking
>> down through the back area as I run water into it I
>> can see the crack where it is leaking. (Ugh.)
>>
>> My question: Is it feasible to remove this tank
>> without completely wrecking it? Secondly, is it
>> feasible to repair and replace it and expect to get a
>> couple decades of use out of it, or would it be better
>> to cough up the $400 and just buy new?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Joel
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Corbin C Bates
We are Penguin,
Resistance is futile.
. ____ ____ .
. [ \ / ] .
. | GO BLUE! | .
. | |\ /| | .
. [____]\/[____] .
Talk at ya later.........
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------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:55:58 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: 1966 Window breakage prevention
Ed. You have the answer. MIGHT is the word. Straight tempered glass that
is
bent by using a the molding, will be under continuous stress. Not good. The
Acrylite AR-2 that we use, will also be put under a stress, BUT, when it is
exposed to the sun, that stress completely relaxes. Evidence of that is
installing the same window without any moldings, on the side of the trailer.
After a couple of months, it has accepted the contour of the trailer. When
you open that window, the contour remains.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 08:01:19 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
Yes. The end caps are rather neat and easily reproduced. Imagine a
round 6 inch blank, with the outer inch diameter crimped back, much
like a bottle cap. A small hinge on the bottom allows the cap to swing
down, and is secured in the closed position with a pin and bracket.
On trailers that had two, I think one was for the awning poles.
RJ
VintageAirstream.om
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 6:44 PM
> To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Under Chassis Sewer Hose Storage
>
>
> RJ,
> This was offered specifically as an option for sewer hose
> storage, yes?
> Greg
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 11:13:12 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Ed. No way. Lacquer thinner, heat gun, ( not to mention buckling the metal
from the heat), paint stripper and the like, will not satisfactorily remove
the vinyl-clad. It was not applied with an adhesive. It was in liquid form
when applied, therefore it has completely bonded to the metal, with no
substrate.
When the interior sheetmetal is completely removed, with proper support jacks
in the right places, contrary to opinion, the shell shape will not change. We
do that in our shop, many times a year, and with trailers from 1936 to 1998.
There are many things that can be done with a monocoque or semi-monocoque
constructed shell, as Airstream uses, when you know how. However, "winging
it," is not one of them.
How to do it, step by step, would require a book to be written, because of
the "if's and's and but's," along with what years, lengths, etc.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:19:47 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <jimcombs@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
The inner shell panels are vinyl-clad aluminum, not glued on wallpaper. A
heat gun
won't remove it. I'd guess you'd either need a nasty chemical to completely
dissolve
the vinyl, or need some mechanical means -- such as wire brush and sanding.
Neither of which (if even possible) would be any fun at all.
I'd suggest finding a paint that would adhere to the vinyl. Or, didn't
someone in
here cover their walls with some type of copper-leaf? Might be a version of
that
stuff that could be used to get that shiny aluminum look the original poster
is after.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Emerick [mailto:EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com]
I would think to get the wallpaper covering off you could us a heat gun and
the remaining goo cleaned off with lacquer thinner leaving a clean looking
silver panel like the ones I now have.
Ed
WBCCI 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 08:21:03 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: 62 dump valve fitting
If the original dump hose fitting has been lost, you may in trouble.
At the last California Vintage rally, a gent with a '53 Flying Cloud
was showing me how he fabricated a new fitting from stock parts. It
invloved a hacksaw, PVC glue and Thetford fittings. Will get some more
details next rally, but shows it can be done.
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: broev@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:broev@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 1:05 PM
> To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAC] 62 dump valve fitting
>
>
> I've rebuilt the brass dump valve on my 63 and now I can't find a hose
> fitting that will connect to it.
> What type do I need? Are they still available?
>
> Thanks,
> Evans
> 62 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 11:32:57 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Joel. The original tanks in 66 were all made with plastic.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:43:04 -0400
From: William Jacobs <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Mystery
Yosef Rosen wrote:
> It's clear that there is a short in the system that I cannot trace. One
> of
> the automatically resetting breakers (one of three in the battery
> compartment) will "tick-tock" when we plug into shore power.
Disconnect the wires to this breaker. This will take it out of the
circuit. Then see if every thing works including charging the battery.
If everything works, you will know that the problem is down stream from
this breaker.
If it does not work, you may have two problems.
I am assuming this is a 15 to 30 amp breaker. This would be a branch
circuit. It would not me a main breaker which I would assume to be 50
amp.
>
> Shore power doesn't work, the battery will not charge and the entire
> system
> seems to be inoperative.
Put a good digital volt meter on the battery terminals and check the
voltage of the system. Then connect to shore power and check again.
If the voltage does not go up, the converter may be bad. Disconnect the
converter and check the output of it. If not 12 - 14 volts, find out
why.
Now that you have done all this, find the appliances /lights that do not
work because the breaker is disconnected. One of them may be bad. Look
at the wiring to each of them and see if there is an obvious wiring
problem.
> Beyond any suggestions, does anyone know where I can find a decent
> schematic
> diagram (the one in the owners manual is overly simplistic and doesn't
> tell
> the whole story.)
>
> At your mercy,
>
> Yosef
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Name: winmail.dat
> winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef
> Encoding: base64
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:56:55 -0400
From: William Jacobs <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Mystery Part II
> Yosef Rosen wrote:
> Initially, I measured 10.75 VD
for all practical purposes, this is dead.
C from the uncharged disconnected
> battery (it had been disconnected for a while). When I reconnected the
> battery to the system the battery voltage went to zero.
This proves the battery is dead.
All three low-voltage circuits seemed to be drawing power or shorted so
I
> disconnected all the low-voltage circuits and tested them
> individually. After the Univolt was powered up and with just the
> battery drawing charge current, main DC voltage rose to about 11.5
The battery voltage while being charged will be about 1 volt above the
voltage when not being charged.
I would think that the univolt is working. This is close to spec. Some
older univolts are 11.5 volt.
Let it charge over night it should come up to about 12.5 volt.
> I reconnected the leads and tested each low-voltage circuit one at a
> time.
Circuit A, the bottom auto-resetting-breaker drew about 1 amp
This is probably a light bulb. An 1147 draws 1.1 amp
> (even though all the appliances and lights were off)
Circuit B (the
> middle one according to the manual schematic) drew about 3.5 Amps.
> Circuit C was off the charts (my multimeter works to 10A).
I would suspect the water pump with out enough power to make it run. It
will look like a dead short. Disconnect the water pump and also check
to see if the furnace is on.
This looks like a motor stalled.
> I thought that maybe I just had a bad battery, but then why wouldn’t
> it work using shore power?…worse yet,
is my Univolt fried?
I do not think so.>
Bill
25 ft Trade Wind in WV
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 09:07:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Wilcox <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Corbin,
It appears to have a crack in the area that is sort of
molded around the black water gate tube/area. That's
a good suggestion about drilling holes at either end
of the crack. I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be
feasible without removal first. Andy informs me that
the tank is plastic. Since I'm not using the tank
anyway, I might as well remove it and ponder the
possibilities from a vertical position. :-)
Joel
--- Corbin C Bates <corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Is the tank cracked or does it have a punture hole
> in it. If it is a cracked I believe that you will
> want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to
> stop it from fracturing more. What the hole does is
> it removes the stress that the fracture places on
> the fiberglass panel and arests the crack from going
> even farther even after it has been patched.
>
> Corbin
> Have trailer will travel...
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------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:12:01 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Are you sure that it is Fiberglass? most tanks that I have seen are a gray
plastic. If it is indeed fiberglass and you can axcess the leak (get your
hand to it) it is indeed possable to repair it in place. If it is plastic it
might be possable to make a repair with epoxy and fiberglass cloth tape but
it is chancy. If I can be of help feel free to contact me as I have some
knolege about fiberglass.
Jim Smith 1965 Tradewind (The Silver Abaltross)
1992 D0dge Cummins Diesel
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:20:13 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Stripping vinyl off '74 wallsThe vinyl is glued onto the aluminum skin.
What is "vinyl-clad aluminum"? I've never heard that term. I've heard
of 'clad aluminum' but that refers to a pure layer of aluminum on top to
deter corrosion.
A heat gun might get too hot and vinyl does burn after all, so be
careful if you go that route. The 3M product I mentioned in an earlier
post will disolve the contact cement that is the bond between the
sheetmetal and the vinyl material.
Mechanical means to remove this vinyl? Other that a non-marking scraper
made of phenolic material I'd never recommend a "wire brush or sanding".
That method you suggest would surely make the aluminum skin just about
unusable not to mention unsightly. When do you quit with the wire brush
and begin with the sander? I won't say "what are you thinking?" but I
am thinking that to myself. ;)
To paint this vinyl covering you'd first have to get ALL the film
residue off. This would include tobacco nicotine and other such nasty
stuff. However, I would think it would be very difficult to find
anything that would stick to old vinyl. Chemical changes in the vinyl
itself over the years may preclude you from painting this plastic
material.
If you were ever to find a paint that would stick to vinyl it's my
opinion that you'd first need to apply a very good primer to both stick
to the vinyl AND hold the paint on.
Tom in NC
WBCCI 5303
The inner shell panels are vinyl-clad aluminum, not glued on
wallpaper.
or need some mechanical means -- such as wire brush and sanding.
Neither of which (if even possible) would be any fun at all.
I'd suggest finding a paint that would adhere to the vinyl. Or,
didn't someone in
here cover their walls with some type of copper-leaf? Might be a
version of that
stuff that could be used to get that shiny aluminum look the original
poster
is after.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:07:47 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <jimcombs@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Tom,
"Vinyl-clad aluminum" is the term Airstream used in my official 1976
Airstream Service Manual to describe the material used to make the
inner shell panels.
"Clad" simply means a covering. Not necessarily referring to a metal
covering. "Vinyl-cladding" is just that -- a covering of vinyl. In the
case
of the 70's inner skin panels, there is no glue holding the vinyl on -- the
vinyl is directly bonded to the aluminum. I doubt a scraper could get
under it. And I doubt a glue solvent would soften it.
Maybe a strong paint solvent would work, I don't know.
Like Andy also said in another post, trying to remove it would most likely
end up as an exercise in frustration. I'm not saying it can't be done,
I'm saying the undertaking would be huge.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom [mailto:tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com]
The vinyl is glued onto the aluminum skin. What is "vinyl-clad aluminum"?
I've never heard that term. I've heard of 'clad aluminum' but that refers
to a pure layer of aluminum on top to deter corrosion.
A heat gun might get too hot and vinyl does burn after all, so be careful if
you go that route. The 3M product I mentioned in an earlier post will
disolve the contact cement that is the bond between the sheetmetal and the
vinyl material.
Mechanical means to remove this vinyl? Other that a non-marking scraper
made of phenolic material I'd never recommend a "wire brush or sanding".
That method you suggest would surely make the aluminum skin just about
unusable not to mention unsightly. When do you quit with the wire brush and
begin with the sander? I won't say "what are you thinking?" but I am
thinking that to myself. ;)
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 13:09:22 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
Stripping vinyl off '74 wallsAndy explained that this covering is
*bonded* to the aluminum, it is *NOT* glued on.
My mistake, sorry.
Tom
From: Tom
Subject: [VAC] Re: Stripping vinyl off '74 walls
The vinyl is glued onto the aluminum skin. What is "vinyl-clad
aluminum"? I've never heard that term. I've heard of 'clad aluminum'
but that refers to a pure layer of aluminum on top to deter corrosion.
A heat gun might get too hot and vinyl does burn after all, so be
careful if you go that route. The 3M product I mentioned in an earlier
post will disolve the contact cement that is the bond between the
sheetmetal and the vinyl material.
Mechanical means to remove this vinyl? Other that a non-marking
scraper made of phenolic material I'd never recommend a "wire brush or
sanding". That method you suggest would surely make the aluminum skin
just about unusable not to mention unsightly. When do you quit with the
wire brush and begin with the sander? I won't say "what are you
thinking?" but I am thinking that to myself. ;)
To paint this vinyl covering you'd first have to get ALL the film
residue off. This would include tobacco nicotine and other such nasty
stuff. However, I would think it would be very difficult to find
anything that would stick to old vinyl. Chemical changes in the vinyl
itself over the years may preclude you from painting this plastic
material.
If you were ever to find a paint that would stick to vinyl it's my
opinion that you'd first need to apply a very good primer to both stick
to the vinyl AND hold the paint on.
Tom in NC
WBCCI 5303
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:48:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: protecting glass on a 66-68
I have a 68 and I, too, was worried about the windows
when I first got the unit. Since then, I have walked
into a few of the windows. Not too good for the
forehead! I definitely concur about putting marking
tape on them.
I think the windows are stronger than they look. No
problems with mine so far. Probably the biggest
threat is scratching them (and of course blunt
impact). The strength of glass is an extrinsic
property--meaning that it has more to do with how you
treat the glass than it does the material itself.
Glass is insanely strong when intact. It's stronger
than steel--if it isn't scratched or impacted. So
take care not to scratch the windows and don't worry
too much.
I don't know about rubber seals scratching glass, but
sand or grit could be big trouble if embedded in the
rubber. Keep in mind that it is tempered glass also.
Stresses are deliberately built into it so that it
will shatter into little pieces if broken. This
increases it's sensitivity to scratches and probably
explains the failure of windows in transit (constant
rubbing and shock loads).
I usually close mine just enough to engage the
retraction catches when I'm going to be away. Then, I
put a little tension on the mechanism. This keeps
them from flapping in the wind if a storm comes up.
Closing them altogether isn't an option in our steamy
southern summers. We usually boondock and aren't
solar powered like the Tylers (yet).
Yours have held up for 36 years so far. Be reasonable
and enjoy them. Don't worry too much.
Jon in SC
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------------------------------
Message Number: 43
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 14:23:02 -0400
From: corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Corbin C Bates)
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Joel,
Well if it is a plastic tank you could most likly use an epoxy to fix
the cracked area. Just remember if the surface that you need to repair
is smooth then you will need to roughen it up some with lets say 200
grit sand paper. Just be sure to clean off th
Corbin
Have trailer will travel...
Joel Wilcox <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Corbin,
> It appears to have a crack in the area that is sort of
> molded around the black water gate tube/area. That's
> a good suggestion about drilling holes at either end
> of the crack. I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be
> feasible without removal first. Andy informs me that
> the tank is plastic. Since I'm not using the tank
> anyway, I might as well remove it and ponder the
> possibilities from a vertical position. :-)
>
> Joel
>
> --- Corbin C Bates <corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>> Is the tank cracked or does it have a punture hole
>> in it. If it is a cracked I believe that you will
>> want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to
>> stop it from fracturing more. What the hole does is
>> it removes the stress that the fracture places on
>> the fiberglass panel and arests the crack from going
>> even farther even after it has been patched.
>>
>> Corbin
>> Have trailer will travel...
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Corbin C Bates
We are Penguin,
Resistance is futile.
. ____ ____ .
. [ \ / ] .
. | GO BLUE! | .
. | |\ /| | .
. [____]\/[____] .
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------------------------------
Message Number: 44
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 11:46:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Wilcox <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Jim,
You're right. Plastic, not FG.
Joel
--- JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Are you sure that it is Fiberglass? most tanks that
> I have seen are a gray
> plastic.
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------------------------------
Message Number: 45
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 14:59:31 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
If the tank is plastic and you want to roughen up the surface My experience
says to use 80 grit at the finest, epoxy adheres by a mechanical bond in the
boating we used to use 36 grit to roughen surfaces. Certain plastics epoxy
will nor adhere to we used to use them for moulds. if you have the tank out
why not go to the people who repair plastic radiators and gas tanks..
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Message Number: 46
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 15:01:36 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
If you want to try epoxy try a test spot somewhere on the tank to see if
it
works
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Message Number: 47
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:03:32 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: protecting glass on a 66-68
Ever since I bought my 66 Safari I have wondered at the wild and crazy
leverage required to raise these windows. I too have smacked my head,
ladders and other items against a slight open window. No breaks yet.
I greatly prefer the louvered glass windows on my old Silver Streak (because
louvers provide better climate control) but I'll live with the larger
Airstream windows because I love my lightweight Safari.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
From: "jon fitz" <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Re: protecting glass on a 66-68
> I have a 68 and I, too, was worried about the windows
> when I first got the unit. Since then, I have walked
> into a few of the windows. Not too good for the
> forehead! I definitely concur about putting marking
> tape on them.
>
> I think the windows are stronger than they look. No
> problems with mine so far.
------------------------------
Message Number: 48
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 15:36:27 -0400
From: frances.mierzwa@xxxxxxxxxx.ge.com
Subject: *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
I'm still wondering about the smaller gauge wire on the new magnets. Do we
have an EE in the group? Tom P. pages don't have references to replacement
magnets with smaller gauge leads. I was planning on replacing both magnets,
one wheel at a time. So I am doing brakes and shocks at the same time on
each wheel.
The shock on the driver side is welded. Essentially a button weld to the
shock stud, which I'm sure must have damaged rubber bushings. Unbelievable.
What the heck is next. So living in an old industrial town, I called a
local welder to the house for an insitu quote, Airstream in the air. He
quoted $250 to remove and replace both upper and lower studs, one side.
Almost even more unbelievable. Talk about trying to take advantage of a
girl. Cash discount? TBD.
Bottom line: If you are going to have an Airstream, monitor the repairs.
I'm sure the previous owner(s) just said "replace the shocks" with little
regard if it was done with integrity or not.
My rant,
Fran
------------------------------
Message Number: 49
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 15:52:05 -0400
From: HMUSE@xxxxxxxxxx.COM
Subject: Belly Pan Repair Methods
On our way back to International we had a full fresh water tank and the
weight was too much for an unknown dry-rotted plywood support and the
outer layer of aluminum. By the time we arrived in Rapid City we had
developed a pronounced air scoop. We started our trip back home and got
no farther than eastern Wyoming when the air ripped the aluminum skin
away. Fortunately we heard the initial scraping on the road and were
able to save it from destruction so we at least have it for a template.
The plywood has deteriorated severely and will require replacement.
Our question is: (1) What would the group suggest as the best method
for elevating the trailer safely? We have two heavy-duty ramps that we
plan to use to pull the front wheels up on and then chock heavily; I
would pull the trailer up on the ramp and chock it heavily or possibly
leave it attached to the two vehicle while making repairs; (2) How would
we go about making sure the holding tank doesn't drop out when removing
the remainder of the dry-rotted plywood. We certainly don't want to rip
out other components while in the process; and (3) How do we best
support the tank while fabricating the replacement plywood support and
its new aluminum skin?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Harley C. Muse
'74 25' Tradewind
WBCCI #7566
------------------------------
Message Number: 50
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 15:50:37 -0400
From: "W.E.Spinney" <w.e.spinney@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Wiring Diagrams of 1971 Safari
While traversing the potholed roads of Cape Breton,we fried our wiring when
our battery got loose in the converter compartment and started a fire.
After a trip over the mountain to the only trailer repair facility, the
trailer brakes, directionals, and brake lights were restored. Are there any
wiring diagrams of the old Airstreams available? Also, did anyone ever find
those toy cars with the airstream trailers that were mentioned here many
months ago? Thanks for any help. Bill and Ruth of the Singed "71"
w.e.spinney@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 51
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 14:20:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
To create a particular strength of magnetic field from a magnet coil,
there can be many variations in design. A coil can have many turns of
small wire and thus a greater resistance or can have few turns of a
large wire and thus a low resistance. The magnetic field will be
directly proportional to the produce of current (in amperes) times the
number of turns. The brake controller, limits the current to something
less than connecting the brakes directly to the battery. This is part or
the initial setup of the controller so the trailer brakes work but don't
lock. If the various vintages of brake magnets use different numbers of
turns, it is important (as Andy has posted) to replace magnets in pairs.
Its quite likely that the lead wires are larger than the wire in the
magnets. Copper wire has a great thermal inertia, so its slow to heat,
allowing for considerable short time overloading. For example the copper
windings in a utility transformer along with the insulation is expected
to last something like 20 years when operated at no more than the rated
temperature. Those same transformers can be overloaded to at least twice
their nameplate ratings, but so long as that is occasional, its
considered to only cut the transformer life in half. For something like
a brake coil expected to be used for a few seconds at a time (unless
going down a mountain side), the current density in the coil may be
fairly high to take advantage of that great thermal inertia. At the same
time, more modern insulation materials can tolerate a higher operating
temperature and thus a greater current density.
At times, during the production process, the cost of copper saved more
than pays for the cost of the more expensive insulation. In some copper
wire and insulation situations, I've found coil designs changed two or
three times a year for no other apparent reason other than the relative
prices of copper, steel (for the core) and insulation. In a product made
in quantities of 10 million a year, a penny change per unit in materials
cost more than paid the salary of the engineer to make the slight design
changes.
It could easily be that the copper wire is about the same size and only
the modern insulation is thinner, or the modern insulation is rated for
a higher temperature operation allowing the wire to operate warmer
without insulation damage.
Its worth shopping for welders, but get some references first, some
welders do more for their competition by doing bad work than they do for
their customers. You can minimize your costs by have the work place
open, (brake plates out of the way) and by having the replacement studs
on hand. Your welder may be figuring in the cost of turning new studs
rather than using studs from the auto parts store.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 52
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 16:51:32 -0400
From: "Thomas LaVergne" <tlavergne@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Vintage Tow Vehicle
If anybody is interested there is a 1962 Dodge 4x4 crew cab for sale in
Bowling Green, Ohio. I have nohing to do with this vehicle, I just saw it
in a local trading post type newspaper and thought I would pass it on. The
description is as follows:
1962 Dodge P/U, Crew Cab, 4x4, V8, dual exhaust, Michelin A/Ts, runs strong,
$2495. Call (419) 353-8810
It has a picture of it in the paper and it looks really good. It reminds me
of some of those old trucks that you see in the Wally Goes To Africa type
films. It would look really cool pulling a vintage airstream. Thought
somebody might be interested.
Thomas '78 Ambassador #8848
------------------------------
Message Number: 53
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 17:21:12 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan Repair Methods
Harley, my suggestion would be to do the floor repairs first. That will
eliminate the potential of the fresh water tank falling through. I hope your
tank wasn't damaged by the experience. I replaced the fresh water tank on my
' 68 Tradewind by disconnecting the fill line and the output line and the
wires to the level gauge (that doesn't work). Then the tank can be lifted
out of the way to begin the floor repair. There are many prior posts on
repairing rotten floors in the archives -- www.tompatterson.com. That would
be a good place to get some ideas if you haven't already formulated a plan
for replacing the floor. I did some of that too -- but not under the fresh
water tank fortunately. After you get the floor repaired and the tank
reinstalled you can repair or replace the belly pan. If I were doing it, I'd
roll the trailer up on heavy boards -- 2x10s -- to get the least elevation
that would let me do the belly pan work. The folks with belly pan experience
may have other ideas.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMUSE@xxxxxxxxxx.COM>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 15:52
Subject: [VAC] Belly Pan Repair Methods
> On our way back to International we had a full fresh water tank and the
> weight was too much for an unknown dry-rotted plywood support and the
> outer layer of aluminum. By the time we arrived in Rapid City we had
> developed a pronounced air scoop. We started our trip back home and got
> no farther than eastern Wyoming when the air ripped the aluminum skin
> away. Fortunately we heard the initial scraping on the road and were
> able to save it from destruction so we at least have it for a template.
> The plywood has deteriorated severely and will require replacement.
>
> Our question is: (1) What would the group suggest as the best method
> for elevating the trailer safely? We have two heavy-duty ramps that we
> plan to use to pull the front wheels up on and then chock heavily; I
> would pull the trailer up on the ramp and chock it heavily or possibly
> leave it attached to the two vehicle while making repairs; (2) How would
> we go about making sure the holding tank doesn't drop out when removing
> the remainder of the dry-rotted plywood. We certainly don't want to rip
> out other components while in the process; and (3) How do we best
> support the tank while fabricating the replacement plywood support and
> its new aluminum skin?
>
> Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Harley C. Muse
> '74 25' Tradewind
> WBCCI #7566
------------------------------
Message Number: 54
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 19:01:53 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fixing Black Water Holding Tank
Epoxy will not stick and stay on the plastic tanks that Airstream used in
production, no matter what grit sandpaper you use. As soon as the tank
flexes, it will pop it off.
I couldn't tell you, over the course of my years, how many "epoxy repaired"
tanks, I have replaced, because the repairs would not hold. Hundreds, at
least.
Secondly, to remove the tank, attempt to repair it, and to reinstall it takes
time. When it fails it won't be in your yard, you will most likely be on the
road.
Then you start all over, again.
Sorry folks, these are the facts. Epoxy will not permanently stick to that
plastic.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 55
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 19:06:10 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: *Blanking* Brakes/wheels/shocks.
Fran. Where do you live? Perhaps we could guide you to a good shop.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 56
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 19:08:59 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagrams of 1971 Safari
Bill and Ruth. The wiring diagrams are the same for 71-72 and 73
trailers.
Call Helen Davis at 937-4928885 for a copy of a service manual. You will be
glad you did.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #436
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