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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, September 23, 2002 Issue 434
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Old WBCCI numbers...
2. Full Timers Intra-Club
3. Re: Introduction and A/C Question
4. Re: Airstream in a tornado? or Severe weather awareness
while camping.
5. Univolt problems
6. Re: Univolt problems
7. Re: Univolt problems
8. Un-subscribe
9. Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
10. Re: insulation & formaldehyde
11. Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
12. Re: insulation & formaldehyde
13. Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
14. Test
15. Re: Test
16. TV swing shelf?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 19:12:16 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Old WBCCI numbers...
I got the same stickers that existed on my trailer. Yes you can if the
previous owner did not transfer them.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 20:26:58 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Full Timers Intra-Club
on 09/22/02 3:45 PM, bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> We are full-timers and wish to belong to the "Airstream Full-Timers
> Club" but
> when I checked out the site, the only thing I found "in clear language"
> was
> how to send the bucks in! Anybody know about it's benefits?
Hi Jeffrey Engles,
Yes, I know the website needs some work. My apologies for that. Sometimes
changes occur more slowly than we'd like.
I'm one of several on the VAC List who will probably speak to your
question
about the benefits of belonging to the Full Timers Club (FTC). For
starters,
there is one formal meeting per year and it's held during the
Internationl
Convention. At that early morning meeting (often at a restaurant where we
are the only ones there), the usual business of an organization is
conducted
(new officers elected and outgoing ones roasted), camaraderie runs
rampant
(no stuffed shirts allowed) and door prizes are distributed (from the
frivolous to the fantastic). It's amazing what is donated as door
prizes.
Also during the convention, two seminars are held. Topics cover
everything
full timers (from novice to seasoned) need to know, want to know, have to
know and don't want to know. A vast amount of knowledge, hindsight and
timely experiences are shared at these seminars.
Throughout the year, "Get-Togethers" for lunch are held around the
continent. Some are publicized well in advance. In parts of Florida,
"get-togethers" are held monthly. It depends on who steps up and take the
initiative. Others occur spontaneously, i.e. in Guadalajara where a group
families just happened to show up at the same time in the same park.
Since 1996, the Full Timers Club has been trying to develop a way to work
with the Red Cross as Airstream Angels when disasters occur around the
country. At the last International, this goal came to fruition with many
Full Timers becoming Red Cross Disaster Response qualified.
Coincidentally,
the Red Cross asked for help from these newly trained Airstream Angels
almost immediately. It was a resounding successful experience for each of
those families. This program is sure to expand and become a most
significant
part of the WBCCI FTC.
What other benefits? Members of the FTC have sponsored caravans during
the
weeks prior to the International Conventions (as do many WBCCI
Intra-Clubs).
Other times, caravans are sponsored as part of specialty events. One
year,
Sandie and I led a caravan from the Hot Air Balloon Festival in Glens
Falls,
New York to the Hot Air Balloon Fiesta in Alburquerque, New Mexico. All
FTC
caravans are organized and run by WBCCI full timers who have taken WBCCI
Caravan Leader training (available yearly at the International
Convention)
and became Certified WBCCI Caravan Leaders (with our framed
certificates).
There has been a Full Timers Intra-Club Newsletter since 1986. It's a 22
page, quarterly publication called DOWN THE ROAD. As one of the Editors
for
seven years, Sandie and I gathered and printed stories about the joys of
living full time in Airstreams. We included anecdotes about the creative
ingenuity used by members as they solved the special challenges of this
exciting and adventuresome lifestyle.
There was a steady stream of articles about enjoyable campsites and
not-so-hot spots, special events in local areas, hilarious travel
experiences, insights gained from a myriad of problems solved and more.
Dozens of members contributed articles throughout those seven years.
While we were Editors, each issue of the newsletter was compiled and
printed
in a different city or town by a specific model Xerox machine. One time,
we
had it done in Guadalajara courtesy of the local hospital's printing
press
and members of an Aztec Trails Tour group (mostly WBCCI & SKP Full
Timers).
I mention this only because the job of Editor can easily be done
anywhere in
the land. It doesn't have to interfere with being an active, enthusiastic
full time traveling Airstreamer.
The current Editors of DOWN THE ROAD are David and Lori Peirce
<dkpeirce@xxxxxxxxxx.com>. They have recently published their first issue as
Editors. You might drop them a note welcoming them to their new job. If
you'd like to receive a sample copy, ask them for their address so you
can
send $1 with a SASE.
Why do I mention a dollar and SASE? Like many WBCCI Intra-Clubs,
newsletters
are by far the most significant expense. Each copy costs a minimum of one
dollar. It's impossible for me to know how many of the 900+ members on
this
VAC List might read my post and request a copy. It wouldn't make sense
for
me to be the cause of a money hemorrhage on the FTC treasury. I'd be
thoroughly roasted and toasted at the next annual meeting.
Jeff, if you have specific questions about full time RVing with an
Airstream, I'll gladly offer my perspectives. If I don't know the answer,
I'll say so and offer to help figure it out with you. Although Sandie
and I
have been living several variations of the full timers lifestyle in one
of
our Airstreams for the last 15 years, there are always new questions or
problems to solve as well as new adventures and exciting experiences to
enjoy.
See what happens when you ask a question? Sometimes you get more than you
asked for. That's the breaks. Sorry about that. Hope I haven't scared you
off.
Terry
WBCCI 6477
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 21:17:39 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction and A/C Question
Hi Joel, and welcome to silver madness.
The stuff in the AC is plumber's putty. You can also use Vulkem, which
is the standard sealant and caulk for Airstreams. It is yucky to work
with, but it stays flexible and useful for ever. It doesn't corrode
alumunum either. I'm on my 8th tube, and as of this minute, no leaks .
look in Tom Patterson's archives for way more than you want to know
about it
http://www.tompatterson.com/AirstreamList/Summary.html
Go to
http://www.airstreamdreams.com/
to buy it and lots of other very cool stuff.
Daisy
Joel Wilcox wrote:
>
> Hello everyone. I am a newbie on the list, lurking for
> about a month. My name is Joel Wilcox, I live in Iowa
> City, IA and have taken over my parents 1966
> Overlander as my dad feels he is no longer able to
> keep up with it. My parents purchased their A/S in
> 1968 when it was still quite new. I'm a little
> handier than my dad at fixing things, and so I've had
> plenty to do. I have many, many questions, but I
> promise to ask only one at a time. You all are used
> to this, but you would not believe how much I have
> learned on this list in the last month. Wow!
>
> The A/C on this trailer is original AFAIK. It hadn't
> been used in 2 years and needed a charge before we
> went out on a little vacation to NE Iowa in early
> August. But then it became obvious that there were
> other problems. Inside the coach, it was sagging
> profoundly toward the rear-starboard side (opposite
> the drain hose). The inside portion appears to be
> riveted solely to the interior panel in most places,
> and what rivets there were which had been in metal had
> broken, especially on the starboard side, which is why
> it was hanging askew. I renewed all those rivets and
> then fixed stringers on both sides of the pan to
> straighten it up.
>
> Today I have just gotten up on top to check things
> topside and discovered that the material that seals
> the coolant lines going in and out from the compressor
> to the inner coils had completely disintegrated.
>
> What is this sealing material? It looks to me like
> plumbers putty. In fact, it looks like an entire pint
> of plumbers putty as used. I am pretty certain that
> water has been coming in past this seal and is
> probably the source of the problems I've been having
> with the sagging of the interior pan portion. I've
> got to replace this seal, pronto. I'm inclined to use
> something like fiberized Black Jack, but I would like
> to make sure the seal is repaired correctly.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Joel W.
> 1966 Overlander
> Tow: 1987 GMC Vandura 2500
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
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>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 19:58:51 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Airstream in a tornado? or Severe weather awareness while
camping.
There is NO safe place in any vehicle or trailer during a tornado. If
its hit and flies it will be smashed flat and there's no structure to
leave room for any human to survive. Ditches are generally considered
safer (though the last two tornado fatalities in Iowa were two women
hiding properly in a ditch, the tornado dropped a corn head from a
combine on them...) than any vehicle or lightly constructed building.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:18:06 -0400
From: "Jim Cameron" <jmcameron@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Univolt problems
Dear Group,
My name is Jim and I live in Maine. I just drove 10 hours to Prince
Edward
Island to purchase a '66 Overlander. It was a great trip -- a beautiful,
but
remote part of the world. Coming back over the Confederation Bridge
pulling
the Airstream was quite an experience.
I have a question about the univolt. The previous owner said that when he
had it hooked up it "fried" the battery -- no doubt due to
overcharging. I
am therefore assuming that the univolt is faulty as it was designed to
sense
when the battery is fully charged and stop charging. Has anyone
encountered
this problem with the univolt? Is there a way to test whether this is in
fact what is wrong with the unit? Is it fixable, or should I just spring
for
a new 55amp Univolt? Are other brands of inverters a reasonable option?
Any
installation tips? Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks all in advance!
Jim
'66 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:17:04 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Univolt problems
Hi Jim,
Some folks think the new Univolts are OK, has they have been taught not
to fry batteries by over charging.
Many of us have replaced ours with :
http://www.progressivedyn.com/_frames/frames_rv_power_converters.html
Which is quiet, small and gives TLC to the batteries.
You can often find good deals on these, but any old Camping World can
get you one.
Daisy
Jim Cameron wrote:
>
> Dear Group,
>
> My name is Jim and I live in Maine. I just drove 10 hours to Prince
> Edward
> Island to purchase a '66 Overlander. It was a great trip -- a
> beautiful, but
> remote part of the world. Coming back over the Confederation Bridge
> pulling
> the Airstream was quite an experience.
>
> I have a question about the univolt. The previous owner said that when
> he
> had it hooked up it "fried" the battery -- no doubt due to
> overcharging. I
> am therefore assuming that the univolt is faulty as it was designed to
> sense
> when the battery is fully charged and stop charging. Has anyone
> encountered
> this problem with the univolt? Is there a way to test whether this is in
> fact what is wrong with the unit? Is it fixable, or should I just
> spring for
> a new 55amp Univolt? Are other brands of inverters a reasonable option?
> Any
> installation tips? Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks all in advance!
>
> Jim
> '66 Overlander
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:24:28 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Univolt problems
Jim,
> From what I have heard your univolt seems to be working fairly normally
> for
a univolt of that vintage. One solution is to unplug the trailer when
not in
use.
Replacing it with a modern equivalent is another.
Scott
(pre-univolt '60 Overlander)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cameron" <jmcameron@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> I have a question about the univolt. The previous owner said that when
> he
> had it hooked up it "fried" the battery -- no doubt due to
> overcharging. I
> am therefore assuming that the univolt is faulty as it was designed to
sense
> when the battery is fully charged and stop charging. Has anyone
encountered
> this problem with the univolt? Is there a way to test whether this is in
> fact what is wrong with the unit? Is it fixable, or should I just spring
for
> a new 55amp Univolt? Are other brands of inverters a reasonable option?
Any
> installation tips? Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks all in advance!
>
> Jim
> '66 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:54:08 EDT
From: PcPred420@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Un-subscribe
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 21:48:56 -0700
From: "Dave Huffman" <huff@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
Thank you all for shedding some light on my battery-charging problems.
AFATIC the batteries seem OK, reading in the 13 volt range w/charger, all
electricity off -- battery water levels OK after 1) charging w/the old
Sears
charger 2) once charged, switching to the small digital unit.
Time will tell...
But Univolts... I assumed previous owner had removed the univolt, but I
still have whatever the electic box is with a "City"/"Battery" switch.
Is
that the Univolt?
My understanding of how to use this unit from previous owner is to
leave
the switch in "Battery" position, charging the batteries whenever shore
power is available. In this sense, I'm running the "univolt" as a
converter
to convert AC to DC and keep the batteries charged?
If so why would I need a converter (eg, "Intellipower")? We don't
do a
lot of cooking on board. Though we use microwave frequently at home, we
certainly don't feel the need for one on the road. In a pinch you can
eat
beans cold.
Huff
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:06:24 -0700
From: "Dave Huffman" <huff@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: insulation & formaldehyde
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 12:55:05 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: insulation
. ...You'll note that polyurethane foams were used in the late 60s
for home
insulation, right up to the time someone found out that high levels of
formaldehyde were released from the curing foam. Formaldehyde can cause
many health problems and blindness is one pretty important consideration.
. ... Regards, Joy
--------------------------------------------------------
Within the past few years, one of the original researchers reporting on
bad
health effects of formaldehyde acquired a much more sensitive meter for
measuring formaldehyde levels. He visited several surviving
trailers/homes
that had been used for the original study -- and was unable to detect any
formaldehyde! I am well aware that this repeat study was years later,
but I
think he also tested newer construction that were thought to release
formaldehyde and also found none.
If true, it will take years before general consensus is that these
products may be safe -- at least safe from formaldehyde effects.
huff
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 08:15:42 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
Dave,
It sounds like you do have a converter but not a Univolt as they are
fully
automatic and don't have a City/Battery switch, at least none that I have
seen. Your set-up is fine as long as you don't mind constantly checking
your battery like you do. A new "Smart" converter/charger will do the
work
for you. Using a microwave (AC) doesn't use the converter anyway so you
might as well eat your beans hot :-)
Randy
> Thank you all for shedding some light on my battery-charging problems.
> AFATIC the batteries seem OK, reading in the 13 volt range w/charger,
> all
> electricity off -- battery water levels OK after 1) charging w/the old
Sears
> charger 2) once charged, switching to the small digital unit.
> Time will tell...
>
> But Univolts... I assumed previous owner had removed the univolt, but I
> still have whatever the electic box is with a "City"/"Battery" switch.
> Is
> that the Univolt?
> My understanding of how to use this unit from previous owner is to
leave
> the switch in "Battery" position, charging the batteries whenever shore
> power is available. In this sense, I'm running the "univolt" as a
converter
> to convert AC to DC and keep the batteries charged?
> If so why would I need a converter (eg, "Intellipower")? We don't
> do
a
> lot of cooking on board. Though we use microwave frequently at home, we
> certainly don't feel the need for one on the road. In a pinch you can
> eat
> beans cold.
>
> Huff
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 09:51:18 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: insulation & formaldehyde
Dave, can you point me in the direction of this guy ? My home has two
walls with the stuff, no problems except if I sell it. Concievably,
there might be a problem if you put it in an AS and go to sell it ???
Daisy
Dave Huffman wrote:
>
> Message Number: 21
> Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 12:55:05 -0400
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Within the past few years, one of the original researchers reporting on
> bad
> health effects of formaldehyde acquired a much more sensitive meter for
> measuring formaldehyde levels. He visited several surviving
> trailers/homes
> that had been used for the original study -- and was unable to detect
> any
> formaldehyde! I am well aware that this repeat study was years later,
> but I
> think he also tested newer construction that were thought to release
> formaldehyde and also found none.
> If true, it will take years before general consensus is that these
> products may be safe -- at least safe from formaldehyde effects.
> huff
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 08:45:26 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Univolt, converters, and such.
Huff:
My 1964 Globe Trotter had the original first generation
Univolt that had 120 Volt AC input and 12 volts AC and 18
volts AC output. It was not a converter, did not have 12
volt DC output, and was never a battery charger when plugged
into to 120 volts AC. Batteries were charged (don't know
how well) by the two vehicle alternator only when driving,
never when [plugged in to City power (120 volts AC).
As I remember, your trailer is slightly later than 1964,
so your Univolt might be a different model than mine and
might have different features. Check your Univolt output to
see if it is 12/18 volts AC or DC.
The box with the City / Battery switches is not the
Univolt; it is the switch box to change between
self-contained Battery power or City power when plugged in
to 120 volt AC. My 1964 Univolt was just a AC transformer
with two different outputs, 12 volts AC for all lights and
18 volts AC for the fan motor and water pumps. Yours might
be different model Univolt.
Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO.
Dave Huffman wrote:
>
> Thank you all for shedding some light on my battery-charging problems.
> AFATIC the batteries seem OK, reading in the 13 volt range w/charger,
> all
> electricity off -- battery water levels OK after 1) charging w/the old
> Sears
> charger 2) once charged, switching to the small digital unit.
> Time will tell...
>
> But Univolts... I assumed previous owner had removed the univolt, but I
> still have whatever the electic box is with a "City"/"Battery" switch.
> Is
> that the Univolt?
> My understanding of how to use this unit from previous owner is to
> leave
> the switch in "Battery" position, charging the batteries whenever shore
> power is available. In this sense, I'm running the "univolt" as a
> converter
> to convert AC to DC and keep the batteries charged?
> If so why would I need a converter (eg, "Intellipower")? We don't
> do a
> lot of cooking on board. Though we use microwave frequently at home, we
> certainly don't feel the need for one on the road. In a pinch you can
> eat
> beans cold.
>
> Huff
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 13:24:07 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Test
Test - I think the server's dead.
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 18:58:14 -0400
From: tom walden <twalden1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Test
Roger,
Got your message but no other traffic. Yesterday or the day before a
batch of VAC messages came in with December 12, 1970 or some such.
Wondered if there was a glitch coming on.
Tom
Roger Hightower wrote:
> Test - I think the server's dead.
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
> 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
> Mesa, AZ
> mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:18:52 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <bedheads@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: TV swing shelf?
Hi, gang!
I'm looking for the TV swing shelf, don't need the wood shelf
necessarily, (I can make that myself) just the piece that mounts to the
wall, (hopefully not to expensive) thanks, Jeff & Daile (part # 380106,
for those of you who have shop manuals...and yes I know Radio shack has
one but I want original equipment)
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #434
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