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VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Wednesday, September 18, 2002      Issue 429
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. DVD; Arrived!
        2. Re: DVD
        3. Vista Views
        4. Vista view windown info
        5. Re: World Traveler update - Frame Photos
        6. Re: identifying my model
        7. Re: Vista Views
        8. Re: Vista Views - archives
        9. Re: World Traveler update - Frame Photos
       10. Re: DVD
       11. Re: Vista Views
       12. Region XI Rally
       13. Re: Region XI Rally
       14. Is My Univolt Doomed
       15. Replacement windows
       16. Re: Is My Univolt Doomed
       17. $99 month full hookups until 12/15
       18. Re: Replacement windows
       19. Re: Replacement windows
       20. Re: Is My Univolt Doomed




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 17:28:34 -0700
From: "Jack Honeycutt" <jhoneycutt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: DVD; Arrived!

At 03:53 PM 9/17/2002 -0700, you wrote:

>I ordered the Airstream DVD's from Linda Moore in August.  Does anyone know
>if they are being shipped yet?

I just got mine a few days ago.  Haven't had a chance to watch it 
yet.  Probably this weekend.

jack in Portland oregon




------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:26:49 -0400
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: DVD

Bea,
I received mine yesterday and tried to watch them last night. They would
only go for about 10-15 minutes then stop. Fast forward etc wouldn't work
either. What I saw was great but it'll take a while to watch everything.
Hopefully I'll be able to get a set that works.
Colin
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Sekeras" <olevia49@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: [VAC] DVD


> I ordered the Airstream DVD's from Linda Moore in August.  Does anyone
know
> if they are being shipped yet?
>
> thanks,
> Bea
> '73 Globetrotter
> '66 Caravel
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 18:57:04 -0700
From: "Kathy Hunt" <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Vista Views

Jeff,
A couple of years ago there was much discussion on how to refurbish those
windows.  Many instructions and experiences on removing he glass and
cleaning it up.  I'm sure that it must be in the archives somehere.  Maybe
someone else can help you fid it.  I loved the Vista Views.  Never had
trouble with any I had.  Owned one that was still perfect at 23 years.

Kathy



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 02 20:38:20 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Vista view windown info

>The past 2 yrs. have been fun. Fixing this and that on my 77 Sovereign. 
>This weeks problem is "where do you find those oval windows in the 
>living room over and under the "main" windows?(sky lights) and what kind 
>of job are they to replace?...
==============
From my files the following may be helpful
============================
Subject:     Vista View Window Repair
Sent:        9/18/00 8:34 PM
To:          Airstream List A/S List, AirstreamList@xxxxxxxxxx.com

I recalled it was An-Am RV that was doing vista view windows.  They sent 
me the following in response to my inquiry


From:        Andy@can-am-rv.com

Glad to be of assistance.  We have been fixing these windows  using this 
method for about 15 years with good success and  no leaks.  

We have had a gasket material custom made to fill the space  in the frame 
when the inner glass is removed.  This material  costs $3.00 Canadian or 
$2.00 U.S. per foot to purchase if  you would like some you can order it 
from Sandy (parts@can- am-rv.com or 800 709 2931) and have it shipped 
UPS.  You  need the smaller size for snap ring windows and the larger for 
 windows without the snap ring on the inside.

All of this is done without removing the aluminium frame from  the 
trailer thereby not disturbing the original caulking where the  frame 
fastens to the trailer shell.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES.  It does not  happen very often but every 
once in a while one of the outer  safety glasses explodes, it will throw 
glass 100' if it does.  

1972:
The first year Double Pane Vista View Windows were  available was 1972 
and these trailers actually had a plastic  inner pane with its own frame. 
 So on a 72 you can remove the  inner vista view pane and just clean off 
the damaged tint on the  inside of the outer pane.  It is quit simple and 
the finished  product looks good.  

Snap ring windows;  1973 & 1974 a few early 75's

These windows have an aluminium snap ring on the inside  which is fairly 
easy to remove.  Once it is out you can pry out  the plastic inner pane 
and start cleaning out the caulking  around the edges eventually you will 
be able to push the outer  pane through to the inside and remove it 
completely.

Clean the inside of the frame out completely and wipe it with a  solvent 
so that it is totally clean, make certain that the solvent  does not run 
down the outside of the unit and damage the  lacquer.  Next clean the 
glass off completely (you can remove  the remains of the old tint with a 
razor blade) and wipe it off  with a solvent such as lacquer thinner as 
well.

Coat all of the inside surfaces of the window frame with about  a 1/8" 
thick layer of silver silicone sealant.  Take the clean  glass and push 
it into the silicone and then push in the rubber  gasket(smaller size) 
that will take up the extra space in the  frame.   Then all that is 
necessary is to clean off the excess  silicone on the inside and out and 
let the remainder harden.   The trailer should be kept dry for 6 hours 
and not be towed for  48 hours.

1975-1984  Non Snap Ring Windows - Glass Inner Pane.

These windows are the most difficult to do.  The inner pane is  glass set 
in the gooiest caulking you have ever seen.  First you  need to break the 
inner pane with a hammer and a screw  driver near the edge, don't go 
through and break the outer  pane.  The larger chunks of glass in the 
middle will drop out  easily but the small shards of glass stuck in the 
caulking need  to be pulled out one at a time with pliers.  

There is a soft plastic moulding in the frame that goes from the  outside 
of the outer pane through to the inside of the frame,  you will see a lip 
of it on between the outer frame and the  glass.  Cut the lip off of the 
outside by running a sharp knife all  around the inside edge of the 
frame.  Then it you grab the  moulding on the inside with pliers you can 
pull it out of the  frame with the last of the glass pieces and the gooey 
caulking.  

Unlike the snap ring windows the outer glass will not come out  through 
the inside frame so you need to clean the glass and  the frame with it in 
there loose.  Clean the inside of the frame  out completely and wipe it 
with a solvent so that it is totally  clean, make certain that the 
solvent does not run down the  outside of the unit and damage the 
lacquer.  Next clean the  glass off completely (you can remove the 
remains of the old tint  with a razor blade) and wipe it off with a 
solvent such as  lacquer thinner as well.

Coat all of the inside surfaces of the window frame with about  a 1/8" 
thick layer of silver silicone sealant.  Take the clean  glass and push 
it into the silicone and then push in the rubber  gasket (larger size) 
that will take up the extra space in the  frame.   Then all that is 
necessary is to clean off the excess  silicone on the inside and out and 
let the remainder harden.   The trailer should be kept dry for 6 hours 
and not be towed for  48 hours.


There you have it.  It is not a job for the faint hearted but it is  more 
tedious than difficult.  When it is done with the rubber  gasket in place 
it looks professional, like the factory made it  that way.  If you do not 
wish to attempt the operation yourself  we can do it for you here at 
Can-Am but the labor can add up if  you have several windows to do.

If you need anything clarified please feel free to E mail any  time.

Thanks
Andy
============


Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)  



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:49:49 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: World Traveler update - Frame Photos

That's exactly how he took the floor out.  Here's how he put it back in:
"I cut the floor sections the same size as the factory, letting it 
overhang the frame 1/4" on each side.  It took five 4'x8' sheets. After 
cutting them to size, four of them ended up being approximately 4'x7', 
and the fifth one was about 3'x7'. I was worried I might have to cut 
them into smaller pieces to get them into place, but just struggled with 
it until I got them in. If sheet #1 is in the front and sheet #5 is in 
the back, this is the order I put them in: (1,2,3,5,4)."

He also used all stainless hardware and a unique 3/16" self-tapping 
floorboard screw with a large self-countersinking head.  He sent me 
couple, and after trying them out on some scrap, I'm decided to give 
them a try on the Flying Cloud next spring. Will report how it went.

RJ

On Saturday, September 14, 2002, at 07:48  AM, James Greene wrote:

> RJ, did he say how in the h--- he managed to get the floor out from 
> under
> the U channel with the belly pan still on? The only thing that occurs 
> to me
> is to have cut out and removed the center floor leaving a 2-3 inch 
> perimeter
> around the outside and then sawed through the bolts (and screws) 
> holding the
> U channel to the edge of the floor. I don't know what that buys you as 
> an
> advantage over a body off floor replacement however. But then I wouldn't
> understand anybody stripping and burning the interior of a World 
> Traveler
> anyway.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Webmaster" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 22:29
> Subject: [VAC] World Traveler update - Frame Photos
>
>
>> Remember the guy who took a rare 1959 World Traveler and emptied its
>> interior into a burn pile?  I have stayed in communication with him, 
>> and
>> he just sent some photos of what it took to replace the entire floor in
>> the trailer - with the body and belly pan still on!
>>
>> The photos are great aids to see what the frame, wheelwells, belly pan
>> and u channels look like without all the stuff in the way.  He also 
>> sent
>> some pictures of the original twin spare tires mounted on the rear
>> bumper.  Spares on then rear bumper was a common practice on the 
>> shorter
>> (22 foot & less) pre 1969 trailers.
>>
>> http://VintageAirstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.html
>>
>> RJ
>> VintageAirstream.com



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:11:03 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: identifying my model

http://www.vintageairstream.com/archives/index.html
RJ

On Monday, September 16, 2002, at 06:36  PM, Brad Norgaard wrote:

> Thanks RJ. I learned it all from you. Now, tell me about this archive 
> you're
> making. I've got some pictures that I could send you that you've not 
> seen.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT
>
>> Brad hit it all on the head.  It is a California '59 "Flying Cloud"...
>> I still have pictures of 27 more trailers that people have sent me I 
>> need to
>> put into the archives, and up date each page with model/serial # info



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 22:22:35 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Views

The popular method of restoring the double pane vista view windows a couple
of years ago was to carefully knock the inside pane out with a punch and
convert to a single pane that is used today.  Cover the inside with duct
tape first to limit and collect the shatter and use a limited travel punch
that will not break the outside pane.
Randy

----- Original Message -----
From: Kathy Hunt <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 8:57 PM
Subject: [VAC] Vista Views


> Jeff,
> A couple of years ago there was much discussion on how to refurbish those
> windows.  Many instructions and experiences on removing he glass and
> cleaning it up.  I'm sure that it must be in the archives somehere.  Maybe
> someone else can help you fid it.  I loved the Vista Views.  Never had
> trouble with any I had.  Owned one that was still perfect at 23 years.
>
> Kathy
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:49:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Views - archives

just a note:  the archives are at
http://www.tompatterson.com

toby

--- Kathy Hunt <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Jeff,
> A couple of years ago there was much discussion on
> how to refurbish those
> windows.  Many instructions and experiences on
> removing he glass and
> cleaning it up.  I'm sure that it must be in the
> archives somehere.  Maybe
> someone else can help you fid it.  I loved the Vista
> Views.  Never had
> trouble with any I had.  Owned one that was still
> perfect at 23 years.
> 
> Kathy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
>  


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:54:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: World Traveler update - Frame Photos

Here's what I would suggest his method buys you:  You
don't have to drill out all those pesky exterior
rivets, and you're more likely to get the shell back
on straight since you didn't take it off in the first
place...  I'm thinking about this method for my floor
replacement although I'd really like to restore the
chassis as well..

toby

--- Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> That's exactly how he took the floor out.  Here's
> how he put it back in:
> "I cut the floor sections the same size as the
> factory, letting it 
> overhang the frame 1/4" on each side.  It took five
> 4'x8' sheets. After 
> cutting them to size, four of them ended up being
> approximately 4'x7', 
> and the fifth one was about 3'x7'. I was worried I
> might have to cut 
> them into smaller pieces to get them into place, but
> just struggled with 
> it until I got them in. If sheet #1 is in the front
> and sheet #5 is in 
> the back, this is the order I put them in:
> (1,2,3,5,4)."
> 
> He also used all stainless hardware and a unique
> 3/16" self-tapping 
> floorboard screw with a large self-countersinking
> head.  He sent me 
> couple, and after trying them out on some scrap, I'm
> decided to give 
> them a try on the Flying Cloud next spring. Will
> report how it went.
> 
> RJ
> 
> On Saturday, September 14, 2002, at 07:48  AM, James
> Greene wrote:
> 
> > RJ, did he say how in the h--- he managed to get
> the floor out from 
> > under
> > the U channel with the belly pan still on? The
> only thing that occurs 
> > to me
> > is to have cut out and removed the center floor
> leaving a 2-3 inch 
> > perimeter
> > around the outside and then sawed through the
> bolts (and screws) 
> > holding the
> > U channel to the edge of the floor. I don't know
> what that buys you as 
> > an
> > advantage over a body off floor replacement
> however. But then I wouldn't
> > understand anybody stripping and burning the
> interior of a World 
> > Traveler
> > anyway.
> >
> > Jim Greene
> > ' 68 Tradewind
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Webmaster" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > To: "Multiple recipients of VACList"
> <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 22:29
> > Subject: [VAC] World Traveler update - Frame
> Photos
> >
> >
> >> Remember the guy who took a rare 1959 World
> Traveler and emptied its
> >> interior into a burn pile?  I have stayed in
> communication with him, 
> >> and
> >> he just sent some photos of what it took to
> replace the entire floor in
> >> the trailer - with the body and belly pan still
> on!
> >>
> >> The photos are great aids to see what the frame,
> wheelwells, belly pan
> >> and u channels look like without all the stuff in
> the way.  He also 
> >> sent
> >> some pictures of the original twin spare tires
> mounted on the rear
> >> bumper.  Spares on then rear bumper was a common
> practice on the 
> >> shorter
> >> (22 foot & less) pre 1969 trailers.
> >>
> >>
>
http://VintageAirstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.html
> >>
> >> RJ
> >> VintageAirstream.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
>  


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 22:08:59 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: DVD

Bea:

   Your DVD was shipped on Monday, 9-16-02, by first class
mail.  You should receive it shortly.  Thank you for your
order!  

Fred Coldwell
VAC Archive Historian

Frank Sekeras wrote:
> 
> I ordered the Airstream DVD's from Linda Moore in August.  Does anyone know
> if they are being shipped yet?
> 
> thanks,
> Bea
> '73 Globetrotter
> '66 Caravel
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>


------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 00:41:11 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Views

I think if I had Vista View windows that deteriorated I'd make them into
stained glass designs that would compliment the unit.  I do stained glass as
a hobby and I'm sure that doing the Vista Views this way would not present
too much of a problem at all.

Didn't Oldsmobile have a Vista View cruiser wagon back in the 60's?

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>


> The popular method of restoring the double pane vista view windows a
couple
> of years ago was to carefully knock the inside pane out with a punch and
> convert to a single pane that is used today.  Cover the inside with duct
> tape first to limit and collect the shatter and use a limited travel punch
> that will not break the outside pane.
> Randy



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:25:33 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Region XI Rally

Is there anyone who will be at the Rally in Albuquerque Oct 4-9?  I know
that Rob and Shari Davis are going, as well as Leslie and I.  Who else?

I checked with Andy Richer and there _will_ be vintage parking so we can all
swap stories.

Just curious.

Roger

Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net




------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 11:39:36 -0600
From: Maxwell <maxwell@insideout-design.net>
Subject: Re: Region XI Rally



Roger Hightower wrote:

>Is there anyone who will be at the Rally in Albuquerque Oct 4-9? 
>
Roger ~  I know there is a group caravaning down from Denver...I'm not 
sure who all will be joining in.
Louie DeCarolis may have a list of the folks signed-up. I know that Don 
& Judy Lees are coming,
although they are bringing their '01 Excella instead of their '63 
GlobeTrotter, so they won't be parking
with the vintage group.  

-- 
Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC
www.InsideOut-Design.net/Maxwell





------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 15:47:46 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <mprice@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Is My Univolt Doomed

Hi everyone,

I have just managed to get shore power to my 1972 Tradewind. Am I
correct in thinking that the univolt should charge the battery and run
the 12v systems? If so can I run the 12v systems without a battery
attached?

My univolt is doing neither.  I have used a digital voltmeter on the
battery and it's not being charged and I know the univolt is not running
the 12v systems because as the battery level goes down so does the
brightness of the lights.

The 12v lights/water pump/furnace fan continue to run from the battery
and I am getting power to the 110v outlets in the trailer.

I don't want to get into a discussion about the best replacement unit
because I can't afford one.

With the help of a gentleman from the Airstream forums I did some
troubleshooting. I removed all the fuses and cleaned and reseated them.
I checked they were all OK. Is there anything else I can do/check? The
univolt is behind/part of the panel that holds the fuses and looks
awkward to get out of the small space it's in (Bathroom closet). Is
there any point in taking it out, maybe there is something obvious to
look for inside the univolt?

Thanks
Mel and Sheila
'72 Trade Wind
Cleveland, OH  


------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:20:24 -0400
From: "goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net" <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Replacement windows

Hi, All,

I am currently on a quest to find a 17" curved glass window for my '68
Safari.  I know it's probably a wild goose chase, but if anybody out there
happens to have one you'd like to sell, you'd certainly make my day.  

In my searching, I saw some windows from a '78 for sale.  I have no idea
whether they're rare, too, or whether anyone on this list would need them,
but I just thought I'd throw that out there... They're at
www.olywa.net/singletonsrv .  They have a little glitch on their site -
once you click on their "inventory" link, you have to click again on
"inventory.html" that comes up in the window.  They're almost all the way
down near the bottom of the long page.   

Cheers,

Amanda



--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .




------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:32:48 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Is My Univolt Doomed

You can run the Univolt without a battery but you will likely have surges
and spikes in the DC output current, especially the older Univolts. Yes,
your Univolt should be connected to the battery as well as the 12 volt
system and all it is really doing is converting AC to DC and charging your
battery, but you need the battery to "stabilize" the DC current.  Can you
hear the Univolt humming?  If not make sure it is plugged in and even if it
is, unplug it and run an separate extension cord to it to rule out AC power
not getting to it from the trailer wiring.  Also hunt around for a switch
that someone might have installed to turn off the Univolt.  I installed such
a switch to avoid overcharging the battery and stop the humming while
sleeping.  If you disconnect the positive lead on the battery and do not
have any DC power, then something is wrong.
Randy

> Hi everyone,
>
> I have just managed to get shore power to my 1972 Tradewind. Am I
> correct in thinking that the univolt should charge the battery and run
> the 12v systems? If so can I run the 12v systems without a battery
> attached?
>
> My univolt is doing neither.  I have used a digital voltmeter on the
> battery and it's not being charged and I know the univolt is not running
> the 12v systems because as the battery level goes down so does the
> brightness of the lights.
>
> The 12v lights/water pump/furnace fan continue to run from the battery
> and I am getting power to the 110v outlets in the trailer.
>
> I don't want to get into a discussion about the best replacement unit
> because I can't afford one.
>
> With the help of a gentleman from the Airstream forums I did some
> troubleshooting. I removed all the fuses and cleaned and reseated them.
> I checked they were all OK. Is there anything else I can do/check? The
> univolt is behind/part of the panel that holds the fuses and looks
> awkward to get out of the small space it's in (Bathroom closet). Is
> there any point in taking it out, maybe there is something obvious to
> look for inside the univolt?
>
> Thanks
> Mel and Sheila
> '72 Trade Wind
> Cleveland, OH
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:11:47 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: $99 month full hookups until 12/15

Hi VAC Snowbirds,

If interested, check it out.

http://www.rvonthego.com

Nine of the 19 in Florida still have openings.

I didn't check out availability in the other states.

Terry 

mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:13:57 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement windows

Thanks, Amanda.

Tom

Subject: [VAC] Replacement windows


> Hi, All,
>
> I am currently on a quest to find a 17" curved glass window for my '68
> Safari.  I know it's probably a wild goose chase, but if anybody out there
> happens to have one you'd like to sell, you'd certainly make my day.
>
> In my searching, I saw some windows from a '78 for sale.  I have no idea
> whether they're rare, too, or whether anyone on this list would need them,
> but I just thought I'd throw that out there... They're at
> www.olywa.net/singletonsrv .  They have a little glitch on their site -
> once you click on their "inventory" link, you have to click again on
> "inventory.html" that comes up in the window.  They're almost all the way
> down near the bottom of the long page.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Amanda



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:19:00 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Replacement windows

Amanda. We have replacement windows for the 66-67-68 trailers.

Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:40:10 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Is My Univolt Doomed

Hey Mel,
If it is dead, the Univolt that is, I have one that I took out of my 68
that you can have. Also I will be in Cleveland next week on business and
can bring it with me if you want it.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler

-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Melvin Mudgett-Price
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 3:48 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Is My Univolt Doomed

Hi everyone,

I have just managed to get shore power to my 1972 Tradewind. Am I
correct in thinking that the univolt should charge the battery and run
the 12v systems? If so can I run the 12v systems without a battery
attached?

My univolt is doing neither.  I have used a digital voltmeter on the
battery and it's not being charged and I know the univolt is not running
the 12v systems because as the battery level goes down so does the
brightness of the lights.

The 12v lights/water pump/furnace fan continue to run from the battery
and I am getting power to the 110v outlets in the trailer.

I don't want to get into a discussion about the best replacement unit
because I can't afford one.

With the help of a gentleman from the Airstream forums I did some
troubleshooting. I removed all the fuses and cleaned and reseated them.
I checked they were all OK. Is there anything else I can do/check? The
univolt is behind/part of the panel that holds the fuses and looks
awkward to get out of the small space it's in (Bathroom closet). Is
there any point in taking it out, maybe there is something obvious to
look for inside the univolt?

Thanks
Mel and Sheila
'72 Trade Wind
Cleveland, OH  



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