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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, September 12, 2002 Issue 423
Today's Topics:
1. textured vinyl look
2. Re: textured vinyl look
3. Re: Buying Axles
4. Re: textured vinyl look
5. Re: textured vinyl look/knockout seals
6. Re: Buying Axles
7. Re: repairing small holes - moldable putty sources
8. Re: textured vinyl look/knockout seals
9. another polishing technique
10. Re: textured vinyl -another idea
11. Re: textured vinyl look
12. Re: another polishing technique
13. Re: another polishing technique
14. Re: Buying Axles
15. Re: another polishing technique
16. Re: Argosy Axle replacement Inflated prices
17. For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
18. Re: another polishing technique
19. Re: another polishing technique
20. Re: another polishing technique argh!
21. Re: another polishing technique
22. 2" heater duct
23. Re: another polishing technique
24. A seller's market?
25. Re: another polishing technique
26. Re: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
27. Re: Generators for RV Use
28. Re: another polishing technique
29. Re: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
30. Re: another polishing technique
31. Re: A seller's market?
32. Re: textured vinyl look
33. Frozen Hehr cylinders
34. Three way light switch
35. Re: Frozen Hehr cylinders
36. Re: Correspondence from Germany
37. Re: Three way light switch
38. Re: Three way light switch
39. Re: Three way light switch
40. Sureflo water pumps
41. Re: Sureflo water pumps
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:04:21 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <jhoneycutt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: textured vinyl look
At 04:33 PM 9/11/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Bob:
>How about a nice chrome snap cap... Rather that try to match, put one of
>the metal caps used to fill holes in equipment chassis etc... just have to
>find the size that matches the hole...
>
>Jim
I remember seeing some at a local hardware store. Also, you can get wooden
ones and paint them to match. That is what I did on my house. I removed
some burglar bars on a door, and it left 4 large holes in the door. The
local hardware store had caps with short dowels that you just shove into
place and paint. You can glue them in if you like. They cost next to nothing.
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 19:14:39 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look
Bob:
The one I was thinking of is called a knockout plug... but I could only
find up to 2".. check out the knockout seal on page 70-4 of McMaster Carr ...
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0704.html
the 2 1/2" model seems just what the Dr. ordered... I would paint it with
matching /or contrasting color and install.....looks like they are $3.22
each and probably some shipping if they don't have an outlet near you...
You should check your electrician buddies for one on the truck ..... If no
luck, I should be able to turn something on the lathe that would do the job...
Jim
03:59 PM 9/11/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>I have thought of that idea on several occasions. Problem is finding such
>caps. The hole that is exposed when one removes the stock air conditioner
>on a 66 Safari is 2 5/8" in diameter. I tried internet lookups of "chrome
>snap caps", "snap caps", "snap plugs" and gotta lotta nada. Anyone have a
>clue on where to find caps of this size range? Maybe I should just use a
>big cork?!
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:13:22 -0600
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Buying Axles
I'm responding for myself, because i'm getting the feeling that i'm being
tarred with the spatter of a rather large and wide brush... I'd like to
preface *these* remarks with my deep and abiding appreciation for Andy's
experience, expertise, and willingness to contribute to these lists, even in
the face of comments which may seem less than appreciative.
As i prefaced my remarks in an earlier message, i meant no disrespect to
InlandRV or Henschen, or Airstream/Thor with my comments regarding their
change of policy regarding axles for Airstreams new and old... i'm a
dyed-in-the-wool capitalist myself, and completely support supply/demand,
free-market practices. My only reservations are with pricing practices which
appear to involve higher mark-ups where the name 'Airstream' is invoked.
Like most of us, i enjoy the benefits of a free-market economy, wherein i
believe it's actually part of the process to shop around and get the best
deal you can; i just question practices which seem predicated on the notion
that 'it's ok, if we can get away with it'... P.T. Barnum's dictum is not
justification, IMHO.
That said:
1) When i ordered/received my Henschen axle last year, i did not at any
point represent myself as a 'dealer', but as a private party engaged in the
restoration/renovation of a 1948 (Pre-Henschen) Airstream. If Henschen
doesn't want to fill special orders anymore, that's their prerogative. If
the principals on the manufacturing end wish to make arrangements among
themselves with consequently higher prices to consumers, that's their right,
as well... but don't expect me to sit still for a 300% markup... or to keep
quiet about it, either.
2) I was not replacing an existing Henschen axle - I was ordering a new axle
to my own specifications, for a completely new, custom frame/suspension/axle
for what happens to have been a 1948 Airstream. This is not in any way an
unusual practice in the field of vehicle restoration - one always tries to
get as close to the manufacturer when buying new or custom fitted parts.
However, if i *were* replacing a worn Henschen axle, i don't think i should
be penalized financially because the old axle came off an Airstream, as
opposed to, say, an auto-transporter, flatbed equipment hauler, or
horse-trailer.
3) The axle i spec'd came in around $500.00, delivered, with shocks, and
(Dexter) brakes and backing plates (rims were not supplied, RJ - i bought
those elsewhere).
4) I don't think anyone's been 'bad-mouthing' the Henschen design or
contruction - to the contrary, i think it's another example of brilliant
engineering which W. Byam's company picked up on years ahead of the curve. I
could have easily retained the leaf-spring and axle design (and even the old
'pipe-frame', for that matter), but opted instead to avail myself of the
improved technology...
Tuna
WBCCI/VAC#8862
'48 Trailwind
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 3:34 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Buying Axles
> Jim Smith. I will answer your question and the others, after I digest all
the
> misquoting, tales and pure unadulterated falsehoods.
> First, I find it rather unusual for adults to fabricate and outright come
up
> with some of the things they do.
> I haven't read, at least not yet, of anyone complaining about ALL the
FREE
> stuff they get from Inland.
> A business must run as a business, and I will continue to do so, and not
as a
> mom- pop, as some would wish, because that's when you get parts for less
than
> cost, but more often than not, FREE.
> Some of these comments in the last couple of days, have me in a quandary.
> Perhaps I should burn all the parts that I have, and deprive everyone.
> And, at the same time, let Henschen know that they can discontinue ANY
> replacements for 20 year old trailers, as they have talked about. That
would
> hurt many people, but it would quiet those that can't leave well enough
> alone, AND, find it necessary to cook up stories, that simply are not
true.
>
> AND FINALLY, Mr. Jim Smith, I don't need your permission, before, during
or
> after, I decide to take a few days off, to do what I want to do. Frankly,
> it's none of your business, until such time as you may own Inland RV.
> But, you certainly saw fit to suggest that I am avoiding the issue.
> And, for the other people who suggest doubling and more so of prices has
> taken place, get your stories in order, as our prices are CONSIDERABLY
LESS
> than Airstreams.
> Also please be advised, that the Corporate heads of Henschen AND
Airstream,
> both signed contracts, so that they could be done with the bad mouthing
and
> utter foolishness that goes on about axles. They are more than tired of
it.
> Manufacturers deal with other manufacturers and dealers, NOT THE GENERAL
> PUBLIC.
> Frankly for them, it's time consuming, highly stressful, and because of
the
> time they must spend with an individual, it becomes a financial burden and
a
> monetary loss.
> Henschen has in the past unknowingly sold to individuals who have posed as
a
> dealer. An Airstream owner wouldn't do that, would they??? Damn bet you
they
> have, and will probably continue to do so.
> Fella's those days are gone, and you can thank those that pulled that
stunt,
> for it.
> For suggestions to be made how you can mickey mouse the axle system with
air
> shocks, coil springs, and the like, I can only say, HAVE FUN. They won't
> fit, let alone work. And then there is the liability issue, that that
person
> takes on, when they do alter the original design.
> We alter the original design as well, however, we only do it to the extent
> that the Henschen and Airstream engineers have approved, so that an axle
> replacement will out perform the original axle. That's the kind of service
I
> demand for the benefit of my customers that are appreciative.
> I am not aware that any owner has gone to those lengths, for the sake of
> others.
> But I am aware of the "I want to buy it wholesale" philosophy.
>
> For those who may have a genuine interest, some different and interesting
> information and photo's pertaining to the manufacturing process that goes
> into making the Dura-torque axles, will be posted on our web site in a few
> days. It will certainly show a very different light on what goes into
making
> that type axle.
> For those that think they know me, but don't, I make considerable
investments
> in time and money, to be the best that I can be, for my customers, which
are
> usually, appreciative Airstream owners.
> It is to those people that I have dedicated my 37 years, and will continue
to
> do so, in spite of those that have little or no use for a dealer.
> It is latter group that are the first to mooch information, who don't
> understand the need to be supportive of those sources. My oh my, I'm
> impressed as to how easy they like to throw rocks at anyone and everyone
that
> doesn't follow their grain.
>
> I also wonder if they will leave the Airstream family, better than they
found
> it.
> I doubt it!!!
>
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:26:05 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look
Jim, I think I have seen those plugs in the electrical supplies section of
Lowes and/or Home Depot.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 22:14
Subject: [VAC] Re: textured vinyl look
> Bob:
> The one I was thinking of is called a knockout plug... but I could only
> find up to 2".. check out the knockout seal on page 70-4 of McMaster Carr
. ...
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0704.html
> the 2 1/2" model seems just what the Dr. ordered... I would paint it
with
> matching /or contrasting color and install.....looks like they are $3.22
> each and probably some shipping if they don't have an outlet near you...
> You should check your electrician buddies for one on the truck ..... If no
> luck, I should be able to turn something on the lathe that would do the
job...
>
> Jim
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:00:18 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look/knockout seals
I had another thought, I saw some cabinet door knobs, with a large chrome
disk behind the door knob... If one tapped a hole in a strip of metal that
was a little longer than the hole size and put the disk together with the
strap and a nice looking screw, (like the knockout seal) slip the strip (
one end at a time) through the hole and draw the two together with the
screw... presto, nice chrome cover...
If it turns out that I get to make the thing, I can put a ridge that will
hold it centered in the hole and it won't slide around and drop in or out
of the hole if it gets a little loose... either way a little thread seal (
or glue ) when putting it together, should keep it in place...
Look out, we are thinking now...
Jim
At 08:26 PM 9/11/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim, I think I have seen those plugs in the electrical supplies section of
>Lowes and/or Home Depot.
>
>Jim Greene
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:28:34 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Buying Axles
Hello All,
I have been watching this from a distance and have a number of opinions
on this subject but because of my new role as a monitor I will keep this
to the point.
I have used this site for a number of years to gather information and
resources to put my Airstreams back together as I see fit. I have
purchased parts and asked for help. At times the costs are not as what I
would have liked or the help provided meet my needs as I would have
liked. But with that said I am way ahead of the game in the long run
because of everyone's participation and resources.
Taking shots at others who have decided to take the time to help or
expended the energy and dollars to support our addictions is uncalled
for. You may not like the price or the control of the resources, this is
no reason to attack those that take the chances or expose themselves to
the group. As much as I hate to say it, it's a buyers market and this
forum is designed to offer us every opportunity to search out answers to
our questions but not ridicule those that are in this business to make a
living. Manufactures, suppliers, repair facilities and private parties
all have a function on the list and all are needed, we can't forget
this.
Let's move on, I have leaks to fix and polishing to get to.
Monitor Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
75 Travelall
All costing Big Bucks but that is the price I choose to pay.
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Tuna
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 7:13 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Buying Axles
I'm responding for myself, because i'm getting the feeling that i'm
being
tarred with the spatter of a rather large and wide brush... I'd like to
preface *these* remarks with my deep and abiding appreciation for Andy's
experience, expertise, and willingness to contribute to these lists,
even in
the face of comments which may seem less than appreciative.
As i prefaced my remarks in an earlier message, i meant no disrespect to
InlandRV or Henschen, or Airstream/Thor with my comments regarding their
change of policy regarding axles for Airstreams new and old... i'm a
dyed-in-the-wool capitalist myself, and completely support
supply/demand,
free-market practices. My only reservations are with pricing practices
which
appear to involve higher mark-ups where the name 'Airstream' is invoked.
Like most of us, i enjoy the benefits of a free-market economy, wherein
i
believe it's actually part of the process to shop around and get the
best
deal you can; i just question practices which seem predicated on the
notion
that 'it's ok, if we can get away with it'... P.T. Barnum's dictum is
not
justification, IMHO.
That said:
1) When i ordered/received my Henschen axle last year, i did not at any
point represent myself as a 'dealer', but as a private party engaged in
the
restoration/renovation of a 1948 (Pre-Henschen) Airstream. If Henschen
doesn't want to fill special orders anymore, that's their prerogative.
If
the principals on the manufacturing end wish to make arrangements among
themselves with consequently higher prices to consumers, that's their
right,
as well... but don't expect me to sit still for a 300% markup... or to
keep
quiet about it, either.
2) I was not replacing an existing Henschen axle - I was ordering a new
axle
to my own specifications, for a completely new, custom
frame/suspension/axle
for what happens to have been a 1948 Airstream. This is not in any way
an
unusual practice in the field of vehicle restoration - one always tries
to
get as close to the manufacturer when buying new or custom fitted parts.
However, if i *were* replacing a worn Henschen axle, i don't think i
should
be penalized financially because the old axle came off an Airstream, as
opposed to, say, an auto-transporter, flatbed equipment hauler, or
horse-trailer.
3) The axle i spec'd came in around $500.00, delivered, with shocks, and
(Dexter) brakes and backing plates (rims were not supplied, RJ - i
bought
those elsewhere).
4) I don't think anyone's been 'bad-mouthing' the Henschen design or
contruction - to the contrary, i think it's another example of brilliant
engineering which W. Byam's company picked up on years ahead of the
curve. I
could have easily retained the leaf-spring and axle design (and even the
old
'pipe-frame', for that matter), but opted instead to avail myself of the
improved technology...
Tuna
WBCCI/VAC#8862
'48 Trailwind
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 3:34 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Buying Axles
> Jim Smith. I will answer your question and the others, after I digest
all
the
> misquoting, tales and pure unadulterated falsehoods.
> First, I find it rather unusual for adults to fabricate and outright
come
up
> with some of the things they do.
> I haven't read, at least not yet, of anyone complaining about ALL the
FREE
> stuff they get from Inland.
> A business must run as a business, and I will continue to do so, and
not
as a
> mom- pop, as some would wish, because that's when you get parts for
less
than
> cost, but more often than not, FREE.
> Some of these comments in the last couple of days, have me in a
quandary.
> Perhaps I should burn all the parts that I have, and deprive everyone.
> And, at the same time, let Henschen know that they can discontinue ANY
> replacements for 20 year old trailers, as they have talked about. That
would
> hurt many people, but it would quiet those that can't leave well
enough
> alone, AND, find it necessary to cook up stories, that simply are not
true.
>
> AND FINALLY, Mr. Jim Smith, I don't need your permission, before,
during
or
> after, I decide to take a few days off, to do what I want to do.
Frankly,
> it's none of your business, until such time as you may own Inland RV.
> But, you certainly saw fit to suggest that I am avoiding the issue.
> And, for the other people who suggest doubling and more so of prices
has
> taken place, get your stories in order, as our prices are CONSIDERABLY
LESS
> than Airstreams.
> Also please be advised, that the Corporate heads of Henschen AND
Airstream,
> both signed contracts, so that they could be done with the bad
mouthing
and
> utter foolishness that goes on about axles. They are more than tired
of
it.
> Manufacturers deal with other manufacturers and dealers, NOT THE
GENERAL
> PUBLIC.
> Frankly for them, it's time consuming, highly stressful, and because
of
the
> time they must spend with an individual, it becomes a financial burden
and
a
> monetary loss.
> Henschen has in the past unknowingly sold to individuals who have
posed as
a
> dealer. An Airstream owner wouldn't do that, would they??? Damn bet
you
they
> have, and will probably continue to do so.
> Fella's those days are gone, and you can thank those that pulled that
stunt,
> for it.
> For suggestions to be made how you can mickey mouse the axle system
with
air
> shocks, coil springs, and the like, I can only say, HAVE FUN. They
won't
> fit, let alone work. And then there is the liability issue, that that
person
> takes on, when they do alter the original design.
> We alter the original design as well, however, we only do it to the
extent
> that the Henschen and Airstream engineers have approved, so that an
axle
> replacement will out perform the original axle. That's the kind of
service
I
> demand for the benefit of my customers that are appreciative.
> I am not aware that any owner has gone to those lengths, for the sake
of
> others.
> But I am aware of the "I want to buy it wholesale" philosophy.
>
> For those who may have a genuine interest, some different and
interesting
> information and photo's pertaining to the manufacturing process that
goes
> into making the Dura-torque axles, will be posted on our web site in a
few
> days. It will certainly show a very different light on what goes into
making
> that type axle.
> For those that think they know me, but don't, I make considerable
investments
> in time and money, to be the best that I can be, for my customers,
which
are
> usually, appreciative Airstream owners.
> It is to those people that I have dedicated my 37 years, and will
continue
to
> do so, in spite of those that have little or no use for a dealer.
> It is latter group that are the first to mooch information, who don't
> understand the need to be supportive of those sources. My oh my, I'm
> impressed as to how easy they like to throw rocks at anyone and
everyone
that
> doesn't follow their grain.
>
> I also wonder if they will leave the Airstream family, better than
they
found
> it.
> I doubt it!!!
>
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text
>
>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 22:56:33 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: repairing small holes - moldable putty sources
Bob, I have seen kits for repairing auto seats that give you a material
to make a mould on another area, and then use that to squish down on a
patching material that will take the texture, and then you pull the
mould away. Complicated, and you still have to match the color.
You might be able to find wall paper that has the same texture, glue it
over the hole and paint to match.
Easiest is to go into an place where it isn't visible and cut out a
patch and just rivet it in and be "honest" about it.
Daisy
My Airstream wrote:
>
> Thanx to ALL for the information about fire proof putty. I am trying to
> figure out how to patch the textured vinyl interior on my 66 Safari. There
> is one 3" hole left from removal of the A/C. Is there any way to get the
> "textured vinyl" look? It is not Zolatone.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:59:50 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look/knockout seals
Bob
I think you had it figured out when you mentioned "skin graphing" a piece
from behind the couch or somewhere like under the sink or a cabinet. A
three inch hole saw bit and three white rivets and you would be in business.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 23:06:05 -0500
From: jim graves <homeplac@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: another polishing technique
hey folks,
after wading through the archives and the wonderful vac resto site i
decided to tackle the worst of my three vintage units. my 53 safari is
badly oxydized, pitted and streaked. it may have been clear coated at some
unfortunate point. in any case, armed with every piece of polishing
equipment in existence and most of the goops i began.
i have- and am accustomed to operating- a variable speed porter buffer. i
have used it for years with much success on an auto collection i endeavor to
keep shining. 1200 rpms is way too fast in my opinion to compound this
aluminum. tried all the nuvites with the most success from the f7.
i also tried the f7 with my variable speed drill and 4" wool bonnetts. i
dipped the pad in highly evaporative solvent (unflammable), spinning it dry
in the cut off gallon jug used for the dunking. just a dab of the f7 and the
slovent damp bonnett worked the best of all at very very slow rpm- but it
was still incredibly slow going.
on a what-the-hell hunch i rummaged out one of the da's i use for body work,
slapped on a 600 pad a gave it a go. low and behold the streaks and
oxydation evaporated effortlessly. then i water sanded it with some 800. the
pits could easily have been removed as well but i was afraid of getting too
deep. i blew the area i had worked with compressed air and wiped it off
then hit it with the cyclo and a couple of dabs of f7. the scratches gave up
easily. i came back with s and it was mirror like. in a couple of hours i
was able to complete the area from the door aft to the window over the wheel
well as high as i could reach.
i know this sounds unorthodox and i wanted to run it by you all before i did
any more to get some feed back. i know the danger is getting to deep but
that doesnt seem to be happening with the 600 paper. it isnt heating up at
all either. i also tried a jitter bug but the paper seemed to load up too
quickly. with the da i could run a brush and some air over the paper and it
was like new.
so whaddaya think.
jim graves
ky
53 safari
57 caravaner
59 flying cloud
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:28:48 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl -another idea
Cruiser Bob:
Another approach is a round, metal circle with raised
horizontal vents on the front and a screen on the back side
which is informally called an "oops patch." As was
explained to me by a local RV salvage house that had a few
of these handy, this fake round functional "vent" (perhaps
4" in diameter) is sometimes attached to sheet metal to
cover up a mistake or screw-up. You might be able to fill
your A/C hole with putty, then cover it with an aluminum
"oops patch" painted to compliment your vinyl, or left a
natural metal color sprayed with a clear coat. The "oops
patch" looks like an intentionally installed vent, so it
blends in with the decor and becomes relatively unnoticeable
after installation. It's seeming purposefulness tricks the
mind.
Fred in Denver
"John R. Kleven" wrote:
>
> Bob
> I think you had it figured out when you mentioned "skin graphing" a piece
> from behind the couch or somewhere like under the sink or a cabinet. A
> three inch hole saw bit and three white rivets and you would be in business.
> Randy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:36:52 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream"
>
> Perhaps I could find a piece of the textured surface with backing in a
> hidden area of the coach and do a transplant :)
That sounds like the best alternative, you could cut out a oversize patch
and rivet it over the interior hole. I believe the vinyl is glued to
aluminium sheet.
Have you already riveted a patch on the exterior?
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 22:25:10 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
jim graves wrote:
"i rummaged out one of the da's i use for body work"
Hate to ask but, what is a da?
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 07:49:36 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
At 11:06 PM 9/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>on a what-the-hell hunch i rummaged out one of the da's i use for body work,
>slapped on a 600 pad a gave it a go.
What is a "da"?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:07:23 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Buying Axles
Ed, did you misspeak and mean to say that when it comes to vintage Airstream
parts and services it is a SELLERS market? If so, I would certainly agree.
The seller sets the price. There aren't many choices in most cases for those
of us trying to put these older Airstreams back together. I'm grateful to
anybody who tries to provide the where with all to do so including the
participants on this list. If I don't like the price, I can do without --
it's my choice.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 21:28
Subject: [VAC] Re: Buying Axles
> Hello All,
> I have been watching this from a distance and have a number of opinions
> on this subject but because of my new role as a monitor I will keep this
> to the point.
>
> I have used this site for a number of years to gather information and
> resources to put my Airstreams back together as I see fit. I have
> purchased parts and asked for help. At times the costs are not as what I
> would have liked or the help provided meet my needs as I would have
> liked. But with that said I am way ahead of the game in the long run
> because of everyone's participation and resources.
>
> Taking shots at others who have decided to take the time to help or
> expended the energy and dollars to support our addictions is uncalled
> for. You may not like the price or the control of the resources, this is
> no reason to attack those that take the chances or expose themselves to
> the group. As much as I hate to say it, it's a buyers market and this
> forum is designed to offer us every opportunity to search out answers to
> our questions but not ridicule those that are in this business to make a
> living. Manufactures, suppliers, repair facilities and private parties
> all have a function on the list and all are needed, we can't forget
> this.
>
> Let's move on, I have leaks to fix and polishing to get to.
>
> Monitor Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
> 75 Travelall
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:47:59 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
Very interesting post, Jim. You sure got my attention. I'm pleased that your
unorthodox process gave you good results quickly. A couple of questions and
an observation:
(1) What is the highly evaporative solvent that you wet your wool polishing
pad with?
(2) What is a da? Maybe I have one. I have a 7" Makita 9227C angle
grinder/polisher that is a dial in variable speed from 600 - 3,000RPM.
I wonder if the success you are having with the 600 grit pad and wet sanding
with 800 grit could be related to the heavier gauge aluminum skin and
possibly a deeper coating of pure aluminum that we hear was used on the
earlier Airstreams,
presumably including your ' 53 Safari. I'm wondering if I'd go through the
AlClad in my ' 68 Tradewind if the coating is thinner. Admittedly, 600 grit
is pretty fine so it's slow going on most materials.
The roof panel on my Tradewind is badly oxidized -- enough so that I have
been tempted to paint it instead for better Georgia heat reflection. That
might be the place for me to experiment some with your sanding method
because it's the worst area and I could always paint it afterwards if I
screw it up. The rest of the trailer isn't as bad but the end cap segments
aren't in the greatest shape either.
What is the collective wisdom concerning the AlClad coating on the late 60s
trailers? Is it thinner than the coating used earlier? Wouldn't it be nice
if the "Graves" method is relatively safe and is a whole lot faster than the
conventional methods of getting a mirror finish. I can hope.
Thanks for sharing your experience, Jim. Is this a great list or what?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim graves" <homeplac@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 0:06
Subject: [VAC] another polishing technique
> hey folks,
>
> after wading through the archives and the wonderful vac resto site i
> decided to tackle the worst of my three vintage units. my 53 safari is
> badly oxydized, pitted and streaked. it may have been clear coated at
some
> unfortunate point. in any case, armed with every piece of polishing
> equipment in existence and most of the goops i began.
>
> i have- and am accustomed to operating- a variable speed porter buffer. i
> have used it for years with much success on an auto collection i endeavor
to
> keep shining. 1200 rpms is way too fast in my opinion to compound this
> aluminum. tried all the nuvites with the most success from the f7.
>
> i also tried the f7 with my variable speed drill and 4" wool bonnetts. i
> dipped the pad in highly evaporative solvent (unflammable), spinning it
dry
> in the cut off gallon jug used for the dunking. just a dab of the f7 and
the
> slovent damp bonnett worked the best of all at very very slow rpm- but it
> was still incredibly slow going.
>
> on a what-the-hell hunch i rummaged out one of the da's i use for body
work,
> slapped on a 600 pad a gave it a go. low and behold the streaks and
> oxydation evaporated effortlessly. then i water sanded it with some 800.
the
> pits could easily have been removed as well but i was afraid of getting
too
> deep. i blew the area i had worked with compressed air and wiped it off
> then hit it with the cyclo and a couple of dabs of f7. the scratches gave
up
> easily. i came back with s and it was mirror like. in a couple of hours i
> was able to complete the area from the door aft to the window over the
wheel
> well as high as i could reach.
>
> i know this sounds unorthodox and i wanted to run it by you all before i
did
> any more to get some feed back. i know the danger is getting to deep but
> that doesnt seem to be happening with the 600 paper. it isnt heating up
at
> all either. i also tried a jitter bug but the paper seemed to load up too
> quickly. with the da i could run a brush and some air over the paper and
it
> was like new.
>
> so whaddaya think.
>
> jim graves
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:56:01 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement Inflated prices
Oliver. How about the costs of the "KT lock" that was used from 70 to 77,
inclusive????
It sells for $546.06, thats $546.06. as per Airstream.
How about the cost of most windows for the earlier years??? They for the most
part start at $300.00 and go up to well over $600.00.
Coffee was five cents, once upon a time.
Why is it that some owners of older trailers want parts availability, but
want to pay less for them than parts for current production trailers????
And while we are at it, a segment for a 1966 trailer, in 1966, sold for
$15.00. Segments for current production sell from $275.00 up to almost
$500.00.
We sell the 68 and older segments for $295.00 and up.
Rip offs?? From who???
We all live in the land of the free, the home of the brave, but we still must
pay for the things in life that we want.
A gallon of water sells for $1.95 at the store. A gallon of gas is less.
Why???
Lets not forget that monetary investments, ARE NECESSARY, in order to keep
the supply of parts available, for the older trailers. The flip side is easy.
No investment, no parts. Not much choice, is there????
If it was your business, you would want to make a profit, as we all do. On
the other hand, a group of owners could put up a lot of cash, and then
everything for the vintage trailers could be sold below cost. Right??? I
don't think so!!!
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:28:55 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
Andy
If your Airstream axle is beyond "specs" (basically shot) what will
happen if the axle is not replaced?
What's the downside?
Phil Renner
63' Overlander (still with axles of unqualified condition)
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:35:57 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
Having done a fair amount of polishing on my trailers and being on this and
other lists for the past four years I offer these observations.
Any agressive abrasives like you are using have, in the past, only been
used for taking out scratches. I think the risk you run is taking off more
material that you need or want to. As you are aware you want to be careful
that you are not polishing through the alcad. I would think it would be
hard to control the amount of material that you are taking off using an
agressive (600 is much more agressive than polish) method. I think that
using the polishing compounds that you can easily stop at the level of
shine you want. Yea it takes more time, not necessarily more work. If its
more work, your probably not letting the polish do the work for you.
In my view, I would take my time doing a section at a time and I think you
will be very pleased with the result.
The good thing about polishing is that once it is done, it only requires an
annual once over with a no-grit or minimal grit polish.
Ken Johansen
5358
59 Traveler
75 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 08:52:57 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
If I can get my plumbing and gas leaks fixed, I want to start the polishing
this winter.
Besides the polish, what tools do I need?
I am planning on using the polish from airstreamdreams.com.
Is the cyclo polisher the only way? Does it run off an air compressor?
-Tim
tim@telecom-pros.com
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 08:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique argh!
well, if you sand it, you'll still be able to get a
high shine, but not the highest! alClad has a pure
aluminum layer on top - that'll give you the highest
shine, but I guarantee that if you sanded with 600
grit paper - that cladding is gone. period.
it doesn't mean that you can get a mirrory shine on
there, it just means you won't get the same color as
those who have done it properly.
I know this all from experience - although I used
micro-paper to do my sanding - I'm pretty sure I've
still got some cladding left of that piece - but not
positive.
a couple things I've learned - and I agree with Ken
about the slow going, milder polishes:
- don't acid wash - doesn't do anything for you.
- don't sand - impatience shows when you compare next
to a perfectly polished coach
- keep the sucker clean while you're doing it all.
- Look at your work at night with a flashlight - that
will tell you something about how it's going to look
in the sunlight.
Toby
--- James Greene <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Very interesting post, Jim. You sure got my
> attention. I'm pleased that your
> unorthodox process gave you good results quickly. A
> couple of questions and
> an observation:
>
> (1) What is the highly evaporative solvent that you
> wet your wool polishing
> pad with?
> (2) What is a da? Maybe I have one. I have a 7"
> Makita 9227C angle
> grinder/polisher that is a dial in variable speed
> from 600 - 3,000RPM.
>
> I wonder if the success you are having with the 600
> grit pad and wet sanding
> with 800 grit could be related to the heavier gauge
> aluminum skin and
> possibly a deeper coating of pure aluminum that we
> hear was used on the
> earlier Airstreams,
> presumably including your ' 53 Safari. I'm wondering
> if I'd go through the
> AlClad in my ' 68 Tradewind if the coating is
> thinner. Admittedly, 600 grit
> is pretty fine so it's slow going on most materials.
>
> The roof panel on my Tradewind is badly oxidized --
> enough so that I have
> been tempted to paint it instead for better Georgia
> heat reflection. That
> might be the place for me to experiment some with
> your sanding method
> because it's the worst area and I could always paint
> it afterwards if I
> screw it up. The rest of the trailer isn't as bad
> but the end cap segments
> aren't in the greatest shape either.
>
> What is the collective wisdom concerning the AlClad
> coating on the late 60s
> trailers? Is it thinner than the coating used
> earlier? Wouldn't it be nice
> if the "Graves" method is relatively safe and is a
> whole lot faster than the
> conventional methods of getting a mirror finish. I
> can hope.
>
> Thanks for sharing your experience, Jim. Is this a
> great list or what?
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jim graves" <homeplac@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList"
> <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 0:06
> Subject: [VAC] another polishing technique
>
>
> > hey folks,
> >
> > after wading through the archives and the
> wonderful vac resto site i
> > decided to tackle the worst of my three vintage
> units. my 53 safari is
> > badly oxydized, pitted and streaked. it may have
> been clear coated at
> some
> > unfortunate point. in any case, armed with every
> piece of polishing
> > equipment in existence and most of the goops i
> began.
> >
> > i have- and am accustomed to operating- a variable
> speed porter buffer. i
> > have used it for years with much success on an
> auto collection i endeavor
> to
> > keep shining. 1200 rpms is way too fast in my
> opinion to compound this
> > aluminum. tried all the nuvites with the most
> success from the f7.
> >
> > i also tried the f7 with my variable speed drill
> and 4" wool bonnetts. i
> > dipped the pad in highly evaporative solvent
> (unflammable), spinning it
> dry
> > in the cut off gallon jug used for the dunking.
> just a dab of the f7 and
> the
> > slovent damp bonnett worked the best of all at
> very very slow rpm- but it
> > was still incredibly slow going.
> >
> > on a what-the-hell hunch i rummaged out one of the
> da's i use for body
> work,
> > slapped on a 600 pad a gave it a go. low and
> behold the streaks and
> > oxydation evaporated effortlessly. then i water
> sanded it with some 800.
> the
> > pits could easily have been removed as well but i
> was afraid of getting
> too
> > deep. i blew the area i had worked with
> compressed air and wiped it off
> > then hit it with the cyclo and a couple of dabs of
> f7. the scratches gave
> up
> > easily. i came back with s and it was mirror
> like. in a couple of hours i
> > was able to complete the area from the door aft to
> the window over the
> wheel
> > well as high as i could reach.
> >
> > i know this sounds unorthodox and i wanted to run
> it by you all before i
> did
> > any more to get some feed back. i know the danger
> is getting to deep but
> > that doesnt seem to be happening with the 600
> paper. it isnt heating up
> at
> > all either. i also tried a jitter bug but the
> paper seemed to load up too
> > quickly. with the da i could run a brush and some
> air over the paper and
> it
> > was like new.
> >
> > so whaddaya think.
> >
> > jim graves
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:04:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
cyclo is not the ONLY way, but it's the best way in my
opinion unless you want to get a drum buffer, or use a
die grinder.
cyclo plugs into the wall. Additionally, you won't
get good results if it's cool where you're polishing
this winter - you need to polish in warm weather, or
in a warm garage if you're lucky enough to have one.
Toby
--- Tim Shephard <tim@telecom-pros.com> wrote:
> If I can get my plumbing and gas leaks fixed, I want
> to start the polishing
> this winter.
>
> Besides the polish, what tools do I need?
>
> I am planning on using the polish from
> airstreamdreams.com.
>
> Is the cyclo polisher the only way? Does it run off
> an air compressor?
>
> -Tim
> tim@telecom-pros.com
> www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:34:26 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <jimcombs@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 2" heater duct
Anybody know a source for the 2" furnace duct
that feeds into the '70s holding tank compartments?
I believe the name of the stuff is Thermaflex.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:41:04 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
> cyclo plugs into the wall. Additionally, you won't
> get good results if it's cool where you're polishing
> this winter - you need to polish in warm weather, or
> in a warm garage if you're lucky enough to have one.
>
> Toby
Toby
Why warm? Does the polish need to get soupy?
Is this another good reason (excuse) for me to wait til next year?
Phil Renner
63 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:24:37 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: A seller's market?
Hopefully, I'm not stepping on Monitor Ed's toes; however, I think it's
important to make a point that is overlooked.
Airstream restorers provide invaluable advertising for Airstream that cannot
be purchased. Every classic or vintage Airstream rolling down the
Interstates and resting in
campgrounds draws interest and creates potential purchasers of new
Airstreams or a new restorers. That Airstreams are "forever". Only a few
trailers have this ability to draw customers without direct advertising. My
'74 Argosy sitting in my
driveway out front of my house draws attention of many campers traveling to
Staunton State Park just down the road from my residence in Scottsburg, VA.
Of course, Airstreams intent is to sell as many new units as possible. The
vintage and classic units provide a means for the less financially
advantaged to join in a great tradition. Seems to me that the advertising
value of vintage units to Airstream's market plan should play a significant
role. That there should be some give and take. Fair prices for parts is
one way to encourage restoration such that Airstream continues to take
advantage of FREE advertising. Continuing the practice of "it's a seller's
market" has the effect of killing the golden goose, in my opinion.
Seems to me that Airstream and other Dealer/Service/Parts companies would
encourage rather than discourage restoration of vintage and classic units.
I don't want wholesale prices for parts for my vintage Airstream trailers.
I expect fair and comparable pricing, not with the Airstreams factory, but
with the industry average pricing. We only have to look back to "You meet
the nicest people on a Honda!" period to understand that the consumers will
move to quality with low price to the detriment of American manufacturers.
Well, you also meet the nicest people with an Airstream. Especially the VAC
participants. Hopefully I'll be able to enjoy the advantage of VAC
membership and the list participation for many years to come. As always,
thanks to the many participants for helping me work smart in Airstream
restoration and putting up with my tantrums, etc.
Respectfully, '74 Argosy,
Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:21:04 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
Toby, aren't we more likely to get swirl marks using an angle
grinder/polisher as compared to a random orbit polisher like the Cyclo? I
have both. I was thinking of using the Makita as a compounder on the badly
oxidized places as needed and following up polishing with the Cyclo with
whatever grades of Nuvite it takes.
My suggestion to Tim is to go to www.perfectpolish.com to read up on the
whole process and then follow the links to web sites set up by Airstreamers
who have polished their trailers.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby Folwick" <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 12:04
Subject: [VAC] Re: another polishing technique
> cyclo is not the ONLY way, but it's the best way in my
> opinion unless you want to get a drum buffer, or use a
> die grinder.
>
> cyclo plugs into the wall. Additionally, you won't
> get good results if it's cool where you're polishing
> this winter - you need to polish in warm weather, or
> in a warm garage if you're lucky enough to have one.
>
> Toby
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:32:10 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
Phil.
The downside of continued usage of an axle that has gone bad, is several.
When the torsion arm moves upward, when hitting bumps, it will hit a built in
stop. That removes all the shock absorbing abilities that was built into the
axle.
When the stop is hit, all the shock is transferred to many parts of the
trailer.
Historically, some of the results of bottoming out, are as follows.
1. Fatigue cracks will appear in the frame.
2. Rear end separation.
3. Fatigue cracks in the shell.
4. Bend the outriggers, which will allow the shell to drop, which in turn
will spit furniture out into the aisle. The beginning of that will usually
show up at the galley counter top. Suddenly, the back
splash has dropped so that the front of the counter top is higher that the
backside. That tells you that you have bent the outriggers.
5. Fatigue cracking copper tubing in the Air Conditioner.
6. Punching the galley dividers into the ceiling.
7. Lack of proper wheel balance also contributes to fatigue damage as well.
8. Shearing rivets throughout, especially at the front hold down plate.
9. The wheel well covers will become damaged.
10. Tire blow outs can occur.
11. The self dampening oscillation control will be defeated.
12. The longitudinal rebound will put excessive force on the hitch ball.
Additionally to install air shocks or overload type shocks, won't solve the
problem, in that they won't fit within the confined area, but if they did
fit, they would have to carry all the road shock, since the axle inner shaft
will no longer be held in position by the rubber rods, which would put
excessive loads on any add-on leveling device.
We appreciate the fact that owners are concerned about the cost of axle
replacements, and so are we. We sell them for considerably less than the Air
stream factory did.
However, the cost to replace one or two axles, is considerably less than the
cost to repair the multitude of other damages than can and will occur.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:29:45 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Generators for RV Use
Okay folks, here's what Todd Hayes (Honda generator dealer) has to say about
running RV air conditioning with Honda generators. I may ask some other
dealers if their experience and recommended applications are the same.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: " Hayes Equipment" <order@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 10:49
Subject: Re: Generators for RV Use
> Thanks for the email Jim. I'm glad to hear from the Airstream buffs... I
> looked for one myself until settling on a 92 Hitchhiker 2 5th wheel. One
of
> the great things about my job is being able to visit with RVers across the
> country... I learn something new eveyday.
> The EU2000i will run roof top airs up to 10,000 btu and will initially
start
> some 13,500's but we don't recommend them for 13,500's. The problem is
that
> once the compressor builds up pressure and kicks off... then back on, the
> load is higher and 1 EU2000i can't handle it.
> I have had many customers opt for a pair of EU2000i's and the parallel kit
> instead of going with the EU3000is. It's not a whole lot more money and
> makes an easier to tote setup... and you have an extra 1000 watts
available.
> The EU3000is is the one I use, and it's still our best seller for RVs with
> roof airs. Most of my customers just leave in the pick up bed.
> The lightweight alternative is the 68lb. EB3000c which runs at 68dB... it
> louder than the super quiet series but nowhere near as loud as the Onan's
> and other brand X units. I have used them when dry camping and when
you're
> in the camper and the air is running, you can't hear the generator running
> outside.
> Thanks Again,
> Todd Hayes
>
> Wholesale Manager
> Hayes Equipment
> 1-800-375-PROS (7767)
> www.hayesequipment.com/wholesale.htm
>
> Hayes Equipment
> 1417 John B. Hayes Rd.
> Ponca City, OK 74601
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:43:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
Believe me, I'm from Minnesota, and polishing just
don't happen when it's cold. The polish doesn't break
down properly - which is what it's supposed to do.
Toby
--- Phil Renner <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>
> > cyclo plugs into the wall. Additionally, you
> won't
> > get good results if it's cool where you're
> polishing
> > this winter - you need to polish in warm weather,
> or
> > in a warm garage if you're lucky enough to have
> one.
> >
> > Toby
>
>
> Toby
>
> Why warm? Does the polish need to get soupy?
>
> Is this another good reason (excuse) for me to wait
> til next year?
>
> Phil Renner
> 63 Overlander
>
>
>
>
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Message Number: 29
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:49:07 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
Thanks, Andy. Sounds like the downside is similar to falling/driving off a
cliff.
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:32 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: For Andy at Inland - my axle question of last week
> Phil.
> The downside of continued usage of an axle that has gone bad, is several.
> When the torsion arm moves upward, when hitting bumps, it will hit a built
in
> stop. That removes all the shock absorbing abilities that was built into
the
> axle.
> When the stop is hit, all the shock is transferred to many parts of the
> trailer.
> Historically, some of the results of bottoming out, are as follows.
> 1. Fatigue cracks will appear in the frame.
> 2. Rear end separation.
> 3. Fatigue cracks in the shell.
> 4. Bend the outriggers, which will allow the shell to drop, which in turn
> will spit furniture out into the aisle. The beginning of that will usually
> show up at the galley counter top. Suddenly, the back
> splash has dropped so that the front of the counter top is higher that the
> backside. That tells you that you have bent the outriggers.
> 5. Fatigue cracking copper tubing in the Air Conditioner.
> 6. Punching the galley dividers into the ceiling.
> 7. Lack of proper wheel balance also contributes to fatigue damage as
well.
> 8. Shearing rivets throughout, especially at the front hold down plate.
> 9. The wheel well covers will become damaged.
> 10. Tire blow outs can occur.
> 11. The self dampening oscillation control will be defeated.
> 12. The longitudinal rebound will put excessive force on the hitch ball.
>
> Additionally to install air shocks or overload type shocks, won't solve
the
> problem, in that they won't fit within the confined area, but if they did
> fit, they would have to carry all the road shock, since the axle inner
shaft
> will no longer be held in position by the rubber rods, which would put
> excessive loads on any add-on leveling device.
>
> We appreciate the fact that owners are concerned about the cost of axle
> replacements, and so are we. We sell them for considerably less than the
Air
> stream factory did.
> However, the cost to replace one or two axles, is considerably less than
the
> cost to repair the multitude of other damages than can and will occur.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
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>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:58:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: another polishing technique
Angle grinder is different from a die grinder. There
are other models of random orbital polishers that work
well too.
a die grinder is a tool that you hold vertically -
pneumatic generally - that you attach a cotton wheel
to the top of - the wheel sits at 90 degrees to the
actual tool, so in effect, you've got a small drum
buffer working for you (1/2" width?). There are other
options if you wanted to do the drum buffer thing that
aren't quite as expensive as Airmark tools, or Rick's
Polishing tools - one of which is to attach an
inflatable drum to a die grinder (~$100 for the drum)
or buy a small drum buffer, which is essentially a
powerful die grinder with an inflatable drum and a
handle. Here's a picture of a Die Grinder if you're
having trouble visualizing it:
http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=001&Product_Code=ptgsC-P860&Category_Code=GS
and here's the smaller drum buffer although I can't
immediately remember the company that makes the
inflatable drums for direct order, I've got the
catalog at home if you're interested:
http://www.buffsplus.com/buffer3.jpg
Toby
--- James Greene <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Toby, aren't we more likely to get swirl marks
> using an angle
> grinder/polisher as compared to a random orbit
> polisher like the Cyclo? I
> have both. I was thinking of using the Makita as a
> compounder on the badly
> oxidized places as needed and following up polishing
> with the Cyclo with
> whatever grades of Nuvite it takes.
>
> My suggestion to Tim is to go to
> www.perfectpolish.com to read up on the
> whole process and then follow the links to web sites
> set up by Airstreamers
> who have polished their trailers.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Toby Folwick" <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList"
> <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 12:04
> Subject: [VAC] Re: another polishing technique
>
>
> > cyclo is not the ONLY way, but it's the best way
> in my
> > opinion unless you want to get a drum buffer, or
> use a
> > die grinder.
> >
> > cyclo plugs into the wall. Additionally, you
> won't
> > get good results if it's cool where you're
> polishing
> > this winter - you need to polish in warm weather,
> or
> > in a warm garage if you're lucky enough to have
> one.
> >
> > Toby
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
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>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:28:12 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: A seller's market?
Joy.
Your point is well taken.
However, the cost to restore an Airstream or Argosy, should be paid by the
owner, not Airstream and certainly not any dealer.
It seems to me that the service provided by a company such as ours, is all
too many times taken for granted. We invest money and time to help owners
such as you. As you know, we have more parts for the vintage Airstream
products than anyone on planet earth.
Does that mean we should give them away, or sell them at a reduced price,
simply because the value of the dollar has decreased?? I don't think so!!!!!!
There is far more to ordering a replacement axle for someone, than meets the
eye, or ear. I won't go into details, as it would serve no useful purpose.
Who pays for the labor time and expense, plus phone calls made on someone's
800 number, when they don't know how to install something and want additional
instructions? Where does it say that any supplier of Airstream or Argosy
parts, OWES that. It doesn't. We offer that within reason. But it goes too
far when someone calls and wants to know what tools they need to have to do a
whatever, AND, where can they but them? It goes too far when they buy the
part from someone else, and call for instructions.
We didn't make them a mechanic, they did!!
I would like to point out, that just today, someone wants to order an axle
from Henschen, that is EXACTLY the same as their Argosy, including the shock
brackets, but it will be for a utility trailer. Henschen is in Ohio, the
buckeye state, but they are not stupid.
But, this subject now has been beat to death enough times.
I choose to spend my time helping those that wish to be helped, instead of
justifying
the reasons behind the axle replacement procedures and the manner in which
someone may order an axle for their Airstream or Argosy, to those who still
feel that replacement parts should be free, or given away, just because it
helps them and the Airstream cause.
The restoration of the Airstream and Argosy trailers hit the big time, when
the article on us appeared in the Wall Street Journal, People Magazine, and
the New York Times High Fashion Magazine, some 4 to 5 years ago, to name just
a few.
At this point, and time, with or without me or Inland RV Center, and with or
without those who object to anyone making money, and to those who have little
or no concept of what it takes to run a business that has world wide
customers, the restorations will take place by people who are busy getting
it done. They choose instead of sitting back and gripping and complaining
every step of the away, to find a reasonable source for their parts
requirements, or for someone that is qualified, AND, has the experience
factor to answer their questions, along with their parts purchase.
We have met that need, proudly.
It's indeed sad, that some owners don't understand what it takes. If they
did, they would jump on the other side of the fence, IN LESS THAN A
HEARTBEAT.
I will be happy to answer any off line questions about this subject.
But, I have spent all too much time, in a sincere attempt to answer the
questions of the few dissenters, who will always be that, no matter what.
Lets move on to other subjects that are of interest and helpful to the
majority.
ENOUGH!!!!!
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:31:19 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: textured vinyl look
Terry, Fred, John, Daisy,
Thank you all for the great ideas. My count is that three of us think
that cutting a piece of vinyl from behind a cupboard to be used as a patch
would give the best finished look. Terry, I have not yet patched the hole
up on the roof or the H20 heater patch. I am just getting around to
reordering my Olympic Rivets.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: [VAC] Re: textured vinyl look
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "My Airstream"
> >
> > Perhaps I could find a piece of the textured surface with backing in a
> > hidden area of the coach and do a transplant :)
>
> That sounds like the best alternative, you could cut out a oversize patch
> and rivet it over the interior hole. I believe the vinyl is glued to
> aluminium sheet.
>
> Have you already riveted a patch on the exterior?
>
> Take Care
> Terry O'Neill
> Calgary
> 66 Trade-Wind Double
> WBCCI 4786
> VAC
> http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:21:45 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Frozen Hehr cylinders
I am restoring the functionality of my bathroom fan. I have two nice
looking Hehr cylinders BUT when I try to turn the knob while holding them in
my hand I cannot get the center to extend. I have previously soaked them in
oil but it did no good. Is there something that I am doing wrong to test
their functionality?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:30:09 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Three way light switch
My coach has four working rectangular lights that hold four bulbs and a
three way switch. I know that I can get aftermarket rectangular covers at
InlandRV for $25 apiece.
One of the fixtures has a three way switch that no longer clicks. It is
just sort of a hit and miss as to whether the light goes on or not. Can
this switch be replaced?
So I've got four fixtures that I might sell to get money for flurescent
lights. What d'yall think about pulling out working stock fixtures to put
in fluros? Should I buy the covers before selling or just sell and let the
new owner buy the covers? Should I do Ebay?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:35:07 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Frozen Hehr cylinders
Bob,
If you are speaking about the Ladeau vent lifters do not hold onto the outer
cylinder as it turns with the handle. Hold onto the part that attaches to
the vent.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 8:21 PM
Subject: [VAC] Frozen Hehr cylinders
> I am restoring the functionality of my bathroom fan. I have two nice
> looking Hehr cylinders BUT when I try to turn the knob while holding them
in
> my hand I cannot get the center to extend. I have previously soaked them
in
> oil but it did no good. Is there something that I am doing wrong to test
> their functionality?
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:17:45 +0000
From: mani <mani@xxxxxxxxxx.nl>
Subject: Re: Correspondence from Germany
My name is Victor Mani from Rotterdam, Netherlands and I teach
Architecture for two days per week at the University in Münster,
Germany.
I am working on my Safari 22 '66 now for nearly a year so I start to
find out how things work!
If I can be of any help, please tell me so.
Greetings to all.
Victor
mani@xxxxxxxxxx.nl
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:11:09 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Three way light switch
Bob,
I took all of my four bulb fixtures down and replace them with florescent.
They are much brighter and efficient. The three way switches are available
but cost almost as much as new florescent lights. I bought a switch from
inland a couple years ago and it was twenty something bucks. You won't
regret florescent, and I doubt you will get your money out of the fixtures
if you buy new lenses first. I'll send you a pic of how they look installed
if you want.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: My Airstream <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 3:30 PM
Subject: [VAC] Three way light switch
> My coach has four working rectangular lights that hold four bulbs and a
> three way switch. I know that I can get aftermarket rectangular covers at
> InlandRV for $25 apiece.
>
> One of the fixtures has a three way switch that no longer clicks. It is
> just sort of a hit and miss as to whether the light goes on or not. Can
> this switch be replaced?
>
> So I've got four fixtures that I might sell to get money for flurescent
> lights. What d'yall think about pulling out working stock fixtures to put
> in fluros? Should I buy the covers before selling or just sell and let
the
> new owner buy the covers? Should I do Ebay?
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:10:40 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: Three way light switch
Greetings Bob!
While I cannot claim to be a purist in regard to restoring my Overlander,
this is one area where I stayed with the stock fixtures. I work under
flourescent lights all day and I refuse to have any such fixtures in my home
or RV. My father reminds me of the litany of advantages for flourescents
every time that I refuse to install one in any of my rental houses, but I
don't feel that the cost savings outweigh the inability to use a dimmer with
such fixtures nor does it overcome the harsh and unpleasant characteristics
of the light produced.
I purchased new covers from Inland RV for the fixtures in my '64 Overlander
and couldn't be happier. The new lenses/shades are made of superior
materials when compared to the originals and are a very brilliant white
color. I have had my lenses/shades for almost a year, and I even purchased
a couple of spares for future insurance.
The switch must still be available as Ace Fogdall RV (Iowa's Airstream
Dealer) replaced the switches on two of my fixtures less than a year ago. I
am assuming the three position switch for my '64 couldn't be too much
different from the 3-position switch in your '66.
Good luck with your decision!
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar in Training)
----- Original Message -----
From: My Airstream <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 3:30 PM
Subject: [VAC] Three way light switch
> My coach has four working rectangular lights that hold four bulbs and a
> three way switch. I know that I can get aftermarket rectangular covers at
> InlandRV for $25 apiece.
>
> One of the fixtures has a three way switch that no longer clicks. It is
> just sort of a hit and miss as to whether the light goes on or not. Can
> this switch be replaced?
>
> So I've got four fixtures that I might sell to get money for flurescent
> lights. What d'yall think about pulling out working stock fixtures to put
> in fluros? Should I buy the covers before selling or just sell and let
the
> new owner buy the covers? Should I do Ebay?
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:13:56 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Three way light switch
I saw that long shank three way switch in a Ace hardware store last
week. That store is in Oakville, Missouri. I'm 400 miles from there now.
The key is the long shank and being for a three way fixture.
Hold out for fluorescents with compact lamps, not those with the
straight lamps. The colors of the phosphors in the compact lamps are
much better than the old straight lamps with bipin ends. And the
efficiency of the compact lamps may be a little better. Most the
advertised RV fluorescent fixtures have the relatively color unfriendly
straight lamps.
Fluorsecents will save on energy consumption, the four lamp fixture runs
about 50 watts and a 12 watt fluorsecent will give at least as much
light.
But last week it was the original innefective vent fan that ran my
Caravell's battery down.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:33:47 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: Sureflo water pumps
Does anyone know if the Sureflo water pumps have a built in check valve?
Or will I need an external one when I replumb?
-Tim
tim@telecom-pros.com
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 19:18:15 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Sureflo water pumps
Tim Shephard wrote:
>Does anyone know if the Sureflo water pumps have a built in check valve?
Yes.
>Or will I need an external one when I replumb?
No.
(How's that for no extra verbiage (c;)
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
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