The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, June 27, 2002 Issue 347
Today's Topics:
1. Electrical mystery
2. Jascoe adhesive and sealer remover
3. Re: Floor repair/replace question (floor heater)
4. An electrical question
5. Re: An electrical question
6. Re: electrical mystery
7. floor replacement
8. Jack Replacement
9. Re: An electrical question
10. Re: An electrical question
11. Re: An electrical question
12. Water pump
13. Deadbolt FUD?
14. Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
15. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
16. Travels
17. Argosy for sale
18. Minnor Mystery Solved
19. Re: Minnor Mystery Solved
20. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 17:54:29 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Electrical mystery
We were rather surprised when we encoutered the same problem with our 1964
Globetrotter as you are now having.
If you have a 1964 manual you will see that the wiring diagram shows that it
is supposed to be 19 V AC to the water pump and roof vent fan and 12V AC to
the lights when operating on shore power. When you are on battery power
these circuits are 12 V DC.
If you do use your trailer on both AC and battery power, this would be a
good time to consider upgrading to a modern battery charger/power supply.
It is amazing how much electronics have changed since 1964!
If you don't have a manual you can download a 1964 wiring diagram in PDF
format from the link below. From this same site I have links for
Intelipower and also an explanation of why we replaced our 1964 Univolt.
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/sources.htm
Good luck and have fun!
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
silvaire@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:50:20 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Jascoe adhesive and sealer remover
Hi,
After hearing the praise for this product I went to find some since I'm
removing my lino down to the wood.
Unforturnately, the company replied to my enquiry with the fact that they do
not sell it in Canada. It is sold in Home Depot stores in Washington state.
Perhaps someone knows a chemical equivalent I could get here.
Please advise me.
Cindy
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 06:40:10 EDT
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Floor repair/replace question (floor heater)
Bob-
No, I do not have any type of floor furnace, but I do have the cold air
return duct others have mentioned. Before I finished my new furnace
installation, no air movement could be detected, as expected. Upon
completion, the cold air return made a big difference in how comfortable the
coach was. Incidentally, you probably have another cold air return under the
front goucho, in line with the rear.
The original Suburban furnaces were pretty quite due to a low pressure, high
flow rate blower, so generous ducting was important. I went with the new
smaller Suburban furnace as a replacement, which has been trouble free
despite is less than stellar reviews. But is has a tiny nasty blower which is
loud and annoying. In sub zero weather with lots of wind, it'll keep the
coach quite toasty. You'll know because you'll never get to sleep at night!
Alex (sweating; getting ready to hoist a new penguin AC onto the roof) In
Indiana
66 Safari & Overlander International
8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:23:40 EDT
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: An electrical question
As I work to install my new A/C I am wondering about campground voltages..
Given: I have oversized cables, and current ratings are not a problem.
Breakers; new.
Question:
How much of a drop in line voltages should I read before worrying about
stressing the compressor? (mine's the 13.5Kbtu Penguin)
Follow-up:
Can I compensate for low voltages by tweaking with gee-whiz gizmos such as a
Variac adjustable transformer, if I keep the added current draw in mind? I
just so happen to have a pretty hefty one in storage. My intention would be
to utilize it on the A/C circuit only. What am I forgetting to consider?
Is this splitting hairs, and may never be an issue?
Sometimes I do plug in some long cables in fairground situations. But my
current draw (until A/C installation) is startlingly low. No microwave, nor
video products.
Thanks for the expert advise to come folks--
Alex In Indiana
66 Safari & Overlander International
8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:53:02 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: An electrical question
Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>Question:
>How much of a drop in line voltages should I read before worrying about
>stressing the compressor? (mine's the 13.5Kbtu Penguin)
The Penguin is rated to start at down to 103.5 volts AC- but I
prefer at least 105-107.
>Follow-up:
>Can I compensate for low voltages by tweaking with gee-whiz gizmos such as a
>Variac adjustable transformer, if I keep the added current draw in mind? I
>just so happen to have a pretty hefty one in storage. My intention would be
>to utilize it on the A/C circuit only. What am I forgetting to consider?
The trouble with this is that often if will exacerbate the
cause of the low voltage- IOW, the low voltage is caused by undersized
and/or overloaded circuits somewhere upstream, and a variac will cause
you to draw more current- plus, if you have it set for say a 10%
boost, and the voltage comes back up to normal, you will be 10% over
rated voltage.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 06:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: electrical mystery
If all else fails, run the pump off the battery alone.
If you are concerned about battery life, buy a $40
charger at Wally-world. Use it once a day to recharge
the battery under supervision.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
--- VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> VACList DigestVACList-Digest Wednesday, June
> 26, 2002 Issue 346
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Electrical mystery
> 2. Re: Electrical mystery
> 3. Re: Electrical mystery
> 4. Siemens wireless tire pressure monitor
> 5. BUSTED PROPANE LINES
> 6. Re: Floor repair/replace question
> 7. Re: BUSTED PROPANE LINES
> 8. Re:
> 9. 55 airstream?
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:49:29 -0500
> From: "Louis Joyner" <joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Electrical mystery
>
> While installing a new water pump, I could get it to
> run, but not pump
> water, even with much troublshooting.. Returned it,
> and the same with the
> second. Hmm. So I connected it directly to the car
> battery, and it worked
> like a charm. Borrowed the neighbor and his
> voltmeter, and found that
> everywhere there was supposed to be 12volt DC
> current, I had random voltages
> of AC. I couldn't tell exactly what voltage-around
> 100 in a couple of
> places, higher and lower elsewhere.
>
> The electrical system does not appear to have been
> messed with, and the
> systen runs fine off the battery. Do I have a bad
> transformer, or is the
> switch that controls city/battery power at fault?
> What's the problem,
> what's the solution, and is this dangerous?
>
> And folks, I have 4 kids expecting to go on vacation
> on the 5th. This looks
> bleak, or at least it's way over my head.
>
> Thanks
>
> Louis Joyner
> '64 Overlander
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:24:58 -0600
> From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: Electrical mystery
>
> on 6/25/02 8:49 PM, Louis Joyner at
> joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
>
> >
> > The electrical system does not appear to have been
> messed with, and the
> > systen runs fine off the battery. Do I have a bad
> transformer, or is the
> > switch that controls city/battery power at fault?
> What's the problem,
> > what's the solution, and is this dangerous?
> >
> > And folks, I have 4 kids expecting to go on
> vacation on the 5th. This looks
> > bleak, or at least it's way over my head.
> >
> Louis,
> This is the same thing I encountered with my 64
> Safari_ the Transformer puts
> out approx 17-19 volts AC for the waterpump & fan
> winding takeoffs, which
> won't run the replacement waterpump. My old PAR pump
> motor did OK with that,
> but the shureflow would not- it wants DC of course>
> Here's what I did: go to Radio Shack and get a
> "rectifier" , which you can
> install into the wire to the pump, which will change
> the AC to DC- it is
> just a small component, kinda square, about the size
> of a nickle, and only
> a few dollars. Ask how to wire it in if nesc. This
> should take care of it.
> Other fix is just keep your pump switched to run
> from battery, it may last
> long enough. Good luck!
> Jere Potter
> Fort Collins, Co
> '64 Safari
> '64 Globetrotter
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 3
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:27:55 -0500
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
> <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: Electrical mystery
>
> Many meters set for AC respond to DC. And have
> different sensitivities.
> There needs to be a series capacitor (some meters
> have that as an
> option) to be sure the AC meter sees only AC.
>
> You could be seeing a problem of poor grounding for
> both the AC and DC
> systems. There should be no AC if you aren't plugged
> into AC power.
> That's the first step to checking for isolation.
> Then be sure that the
> AC neutral is not bonded to the trailer ground, all
> AC circuits should
> be three wire (since the 60s at least) with one for
> safety ground, one
> for line and one for neutral. Isn't there a switch
> for the water pump
> near the kitchen sink?
>
> Some of the early "transformers" supplied AC to fans
> and maybe the water
> pump. Your modern pump won't like that AC much and
> will insist on having
> DC as from the battery.
>
> Water can always be carried in the back of the truck
> (and in various
> parts of the trailer) in gallon to 5 gallon
> containers and be very
> rationed.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson.
> Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 4
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:13:57 -0600
> From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
> Subject: Siemens wireless tire pressure monitor
>
> Siemens has developed a wireless pressure sensor.
> More info at this link:
> http://www.siemensvdo.com/news/2001/iaa/09008e.htm
> Looks like auto applications are planned but
> trailers can't be far behind.
> (no pun intended)
>
> Terry O'Neill
> Calgary
> 66 Trade-Wind Double
> WBCCI 4786
> VAC
> http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 08:15:45 -0400
> From: "Noah" <noahnoa@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: BUSTED PROPANE LINES
>
> Hi
>
> A word of caution
>
> Yesterday evening while watching TV I heard a loud
> POP followed by what
> sounded like a jet engine outside my trailer.
>
> I ran outside to discover that one of the pigtail
> connection from my LP tank
> to the regulator had come apart. A brass fittings
> at one end had slipped
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:45:33 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: floor replacement
Will wrote:
>
> I am right in the middle of a total floor replacement on our 58 18ft
> Traveler. And what a royal pain in the b**t it has been.
This is a follow up question for Will. On a shell off floor replacement
does the U get bolted down first then the belly riveted on then the shell?
Thanks.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:53:32 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: Jack Replacement
Tuna responded to Jill:
>
> If you want to keep the wheels on the ground, though, you ought to be using
> wheel chocks... the curved/wedge-shaped things... They'll keep the trailer
> from rolling
Tuna is right. I think Dr. J had a similar response. The heavy cement
blocks might seem like a good answer but you need something that will wedge
under the wheels. If the blocks are too tall the rolling tire can just push
them along.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:20:23 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: An electrical question
Has anyone heard of a "power buck"? I did an installation of a 220v tanning
bed, and the salon had one of these things near the power source for each
bed... about the size of a motorcycle battery, i peeked inside, and they
appeared to be filled with some sort of crystals or silica. I don't know if
that was a by-product, or insulator, but the purpose of these things appears
to be to 'buck up' the power if/when the line levels drop below 220volts. It
appears to be a solid-state device, maybe some kind of high-power capacitor?
I don't think they would be useful for continuous use, but to provide enough
juice to start the 12 ballasts in a tanning bed (or start up an a/c's
compressor), a 120v one of these things might be useful when line source is
unknown/unreliable...?
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 5:53 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: An electrical question
> Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> >Question:
> >How much of a drop in line voltages should I read before worrying about
> >stressing the compressor? (mine's the 13.5Kbtu Penguin)
>
> The Penguin is rated to start at down to 103.5 volts AC- but I
> prefer at least 105-107.
>
> >Follow-up:
> >Can I compensate for low voltages by tweaking with gee-whiz gizmos such
as a
> >Variac adjustable transformer, if I keep the added current draw in mind?
I
> >just so happen to have a pretty hefty one in storage. My intention would
be
> >to utilize it on the A/C circuit only. What am I forgetting to consider?
>
> The trouble with this is that often if will exacerbate the
> cause of the low voltage- IOW, the low voltage is caused by undersized
> and/or overloaded circuits somewhere upstream, and a variac will cause
> you to draw more current- plus, if you have it set for say a 10%
> boost, and the voltage comes back up to normal, you will be 10% over
> rated voltage.
> --
> Chris Bryant
> mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:39:00 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: An electrical question
Cranking the variac manually will get old in a few minutes, yet the
voltage will be jumping all around because of all the other A/C in the
lot starting and stopping.
An automatic voltage regulating transformer would be handier (though not
nearly as cost effective as the variac you already own).
Chris says the Penguin is rated to START at 103.5, that's probably
expecting some of the voltage droop to be from its starting current
(typically 6 times running current). I'd like probably 110 volts for
running, though I don't have specific data on that unit. The rub is that
any induction motor (compressor and fan) speed is determined by the AC
frequency, and the shaft load is determined by the speed and the fan and
compressor, when the current drawn has to make the total Volt-amps input
supply the shaft load power. So at low voltage the current is greater.
What the motors can stand depends on how conservatively they have been
designed. There's not a current that causes instant destruction and 2%
less doesn't cause destruction. The failure is accumulated heat damage
to the motor's electrical insulation. And the heat is proportional to
the current squared. Motor failure often occurs months or years after
the stress that lead to that failure. Though a stalled motor with a
stuck thermal protector or a stuck starting switch will generally take
out the start winding in seconds because its so overloaded in normal
operation for a few seconds per start.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:46:07 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: An electrical question
Sounds like a buck/boost transformer. Typically they are potted in sand
and epoxy mixture. The most common ones do not switch automatically.
Could be the tanning beds are rated for 240 and the power is 208, then
they need to be wired for boost. They come in two secondary (boost step)
values, 12/24 and 16/32 volts. They come with two primary windings that
can be connected for 120 or 240 volts. They come in sizes from 25 VA to
several KVA (the delta voltage times their rated current, not the load
power). Their standard connection is as an autotransformer. For
applications where the voltage change need is constant and relatively
small, they are cost and energy efficient solutions. Significantly
cheaper and more rugged than a variac.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:03:14 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Water pump
on 06/24/02 2:55 PM, mprice@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> My 72 Trade Wind had problems getting water to the rear sink and the kitchen
> pressure was low and spluttered and gurgled along. Also, the pump never built
> up enough pressure to automatically shut off when the faucet was closed.
>
> I'm not sure of the price for the rebuild kit but I bit the bullet and bought
> a new shureflo pump. This gets up to pressure in seconds and gives a smooth
> flow to both sinks, it is also a lot quieter in operation than the original
> PAR pump. You can get it online here
> http://www.plumbingsupply.com/12voltpotable.html for $67, I bought mine from a
> local RV dealer, it was a little more expensive but I was in the store anyway.
Hi Melvin,
A fringe benefit of owning a Shurflo is that if it gives you a problem while
you are at the Florida State Rally in Sarasota, the Shurflo dealer may be
able to fix it for you - for free.
When I took mine to be fixed, he hooked it up, listened, unhooked it and
casually tossed it on the floor. In about a smooth a motion as I've seen, he
picked up a new pump and said to me, "Here, it's all fixed. You won't have
any more problems with it."
My point, spending $67 may have been a smart move if your pump crumps out at
the Sarasota Rally -- or if you remember to bring it with you when you go to
the Sarasota Rally. Most of us have two pumps (one in our stash box) anyway.
Food for thought,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:03:14 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Deadbolt FUD?
on 06/24/02 5:14 PM, Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Dave. If you do mount a dead bolt, it's not a matter of what will happen, it's
> when. You will damage the door frame, by simply slamming it shut.
>
> Andy inlandrv.com
>
Dave and Andy,
In the past, some dead bolts have been mounted in such a way that the door
frame isn't damaged. I've had one of those deadbolts in my 1977 Excella 500
for 25 years. This trailer hasn't sat around in a park all those years, nor
has it been driven only on smooth highways.
The frame has no signs of damage and the dead bolt works as well today as
the day it was installed.
Based on a sample of one person (me) who has used his Airstream extensively
(dozens of times deep into Mexico, several times on the Alaskan Highway and
at least 50 times crisscrossing the USA), I'm inclined to believe a dead
bolt can be installed either correctly or incorrectly.
Never having had mine apart since it was installed at a WBCCI rally by a man
with motor scooter who towed a small wagon with a generator and a supply of
deadbolt locks, I'd say he knew how to install it correctly (perhaps as
Gerald outlined in one of his two notes on 6/24).
Andy, as a repair man for Inland RV, I suspect your experience has been
exclusively with those deadbolts that were not installed correctly. It's
only natural that people with problems would seek out your service.
Likewise, it's only natural that people who haven't had deadbolt lock
problems would not seek out your services, which means you might not be
aware of successful installations.
Dave, if it was me, I'd expand my range of search for Airstreams of similar
vintage to you which have deadbolts that have been troublefree for 15 or
more years. By closely inspecting them and becoming exquisitely sensitive to
all aspects of the installation, you may decide the installation of a
deadbolt in your Airstream can be done correctly (perhaps by you).
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:03:14 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
on 06/24/02 11:02 PM, jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> i considered going with an electric one... comments?
>
> also, from what i can see, it is just bolted on. i should be able to secure
> the tongue and unbolt it? please let it be as easy as it looks. i'm just a
> newbie.
>
Hi Jill,
Welcome back. It's great that you now have your own rig. You never sounded
like someone to sit on her duff and just talk.
To your question, if it was me, I'd go with an electric one. Of course, that
means wiring and that means a battery and that means a source of power to
keep the battery charged and that means .......... you get the idea.
Then, comes the part where you unbolt the old jack (or hire someone to burn
the bolts out for you because they're frozen in place), buy the new electric
jack and ooops - the holes are in a different place (just slightly but the
new jack won't fit). Are you still in the game?
Thus, if I were you, I'd stay with a hand crank as a transition phase until
the "scattered pink appliances, piles of cupboard doors and drawers, and
various stashes of miscellaneous pieces and parts" are assembled in their
respective places and progress is becoming evident to anyone who sees your
"before" pictures.
That will provide more time for your winning lottery number to come in.
<grin> You may have heard me say it before; I prefer to play conservative
with my money when I'm spending physical energy on routine tasks. Also,
others on this list have said many times how easy it is to throw money at
our Airstreams. If you've got it, throw it. If not, budget it.
More answer than you wanted? Click - click and it's deleted.
Have fun and yes, it's good to see you're back,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:31:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Terry, show us pictures of that expert dead bolt installation.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:15:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Karen Waldo <landyacht76@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Travels
Hi Sandi and Terry,
I was wondering if you guys were going to keep the
list up to date with your travels? I have always
enjoyed hearing about what you are up to and where you
have been.
Thanks,
Karen Waldo
WDCU #8440
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:00:04 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <rainsworth8@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Argosy for sale
I received the below message from a friend of mine in Tenn. So if anyone is
interested, here's the info.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'72 Ambassador International 29'
"If know anyone who wants a good 73 Argosy Airstream, here it is. 24', heat
and air operable, floor sound, seams sound, no major dings. Needs 4 tires.
Price $3,000 negotiable.
Looked her over inside and inside and outside. I was impressed. A little
shine here and there and she would be ready to rock and roll. I took
digital pictures inside and outside. I believe the guy would take $2500 for
her without much hassle.
If you know someone interested, have them call Jeff Stevens, (731) 695-8261
cell or (731) 986-9910 home-evenings.
Jackhammer"
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.372 / Virus Database: 207 - Release Date: 6/20/2002
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:12:01 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Minnor Mystery Solved
I have always been pretty good at figuring out how things work and how to
take things apart and put them back together. But just recently I found out
how a simple little gadget worked that I have been wondering about for
almost two years. The gadget is the little spring operated clips that holds
the cover in place on the door to my hotwater heater. They were rusted and I
bought two new replacements a long time ago, but then I could not figure out
how to get the old ones off or the new ones on. It looked like an impossible
task. Recently I was over at Bob Jones RV here in Houston and I commented to
Chris, I sure wish there was someway to replace those rusty clips and he
reached down and bingo they were off. So if there are others out there that
don't know how these little gadgets work, just compress the spring then
slide the flat clip off. Install the new shinny ones by reversing. If you
already knew how they work, please don't think less of me.
I started to not tell anybody about this but I would hate to hear that
someone dismantled part of their A/S just to get these things off.
Don Hardman
1976 31' Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:27:27 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Minnor Mystery Solved
I stared and fiddled with them for a week until it hit me like a ton of
bricks. Trust me, you are not alone.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hardman <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:12 PM
Subject: [VAC] Minnor Mystery Solved
> I have always been pretty good at figuring out how things work and how to
> take things apart and put them back together. But just recently I found
out
> how a simple little gadget worked that I have been wondering about for
> almost two years. The gadget is the little spring operated clips that
holds
> the cover in place on the door to my hotwater heater. They were rusted and
I
> bought two new replacements a long time ago, but then I could not figure
out
> how to get the old ones off or the new ones on. It looked like an
impossible
> task. Recently I was over at Bob Jones RV here in Houston and I commented
to
> Chris, I sure wish there was someway to replace those rusty clips and he
> reached down and bingo they were off. So if there are others out there
that
> don't know how these little gadgets work, just compress the spring then
> slide the flat clip off. Install the new shinny ones by reversing. If you
> already knew how they work, please don't think less of me.
>
> I started to not tell anybody about this but I would hate to hear that
> someone dismantled part of their A/S just to get these things off.
>
> Don Hardman
> 1976 31' Sovereign
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:45:02 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Terry. You hit the nail on the head. Installation does make the difference.
Some slam doors, some don't. Generally speaking, adding a dead bolt should
not be attempted, unless, all the parameters are considered. That's the
problem, Terry, some folks use brute force without considering end results.
Then when it backfires, Airstream gets blamed, for selling a product that
bites you back, when poor changes are made, or when something fails because
of abuse.
I try to answer questions based on the person not having much mechanical
background. Many owners like yourself, think the problem out and come up with
very good answers. That being the case, the question is not asked. But if a
person needs to ask how do you grease bearings, or how do you add a dead
bolt, it usually means that they have no clue where to begin. The best thing
to do in that case, is to show someone the trailer, and then ask, how do I
???????????
Asking on a site such as this can be misleading to someone that perhaps does
not understand that each year coach can be very different from another, in
that what may work for one year, may not work for another.
The door frames have varied from poor extrusions, to cast metal, back to
cheap extrusions, and then on to much heavier extrusions, that will support
some changes.
I assure you, that when a large hole is drilled through a cast frame, it
greatly reduces it's strength. Slamming it, one time, usually results in the
door frame cracking in half. Perhaps that person may not slam the door, but a
visitor might, or a gust of wind from mother nature might.
Not worth the risk.
Replacing a cast metal door requires a door, jamb and screen door, that was
used from 78 to 93. Parts cost? Almost $2000.00, plus freight, plus labor.
Additionally. the new door may have to be taken apart and reshaped, to fit
the older style shell contour. With these factors known, should a
inexperienced person put a dead bolt in? Probably not, when facing the
possible end result.
But some folks like to live on the edge, some like to lean way over the edge,
and others prefer to place it safe and have someone do it for them, that's
been there and done that.
Andy
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #347
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text