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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, June 25, 2002 Issue 345
Today's Topics:
1. Saniware Swirl O Matic toilet circa 59
2. Saniware Swirl o Matic toilet in 59 Traveler
3. Vintage flooring materials
4. Top replacement
5. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
6. 1960 bucket of bolts
7. flooring - redo plywood?
8. Re: flooring - redo plywood?
9. AUE 24590
10. Re: flooring - redo plywood?
11. Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
12. jack replacement
13. Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
14. Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
15. 54 Bubble advertised
16. Yet Another Rally Interest Poll for the Midwest
17. Re: check valve for PAR pump
18. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
19. Re: ead bolt
20. Floor repair/replace question....and an update on where I am at on my shell off floor replacement.
21. Re: flooring - redo plywood?
22. Re: Top replacement
23. Raton Pass
24. 6.2 Diesel RPM?
25. Re: Floor repair/replace question
26. Re: Floor repair/replace question
27. Top Replacement
28. Re: jack replacement
29. Blond Wood Stain
30. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
31. Re: Floor repair/replace question
32. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
33. Re: Blond Wood Stain
34. Re: Vertical grade (thin) high pressure laminate
35. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
36. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
37. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
38. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
39. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:56:34 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Saniware Swirl O Matic toilet circa 59
Hi folks,
Ah, yes. Pulling up the floor means dealing with the loo.
Actually, this toilet is in pretty good shape for its age. My questions:
Is there a place to get replacement flappers to seal the discharge opening
into the black water tank?
Is there a place that would have the right sized toilet seat and lid?
Is there a diagram available for the mechanism on the right side, opposite
the flush pedal?
How does that part work?
Thank you for your help.
Cindy
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:52:09 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <chale@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Saniware Swirl o Matic toilet in 59 Traveler
Hi folks,
Ah, yes. Pulling up the floor means dealing with the loo.
Actually, this toilet is in pretty good shape for its age.
Is there a place to get replacement flappers to seal the discharge opening
into the black water tank?
Is there a place that would have the right sized toilet seat and lid?
Is there a diagram available for the mechanism on the right side, opposite
the flush pedal?
How does that part work?
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:57:15 -0400
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Vintage flooring materials
>> Cindy wrote:
> >
> > I'm taking on the floor...but the local advice I've found says leave the
old
> > floor in place because of the nasty black tar adhesive that penetrates
any
> > other flooring I'd put over it.
> > So, I see that many of you have redone your flooring. What did you use
to
> > remove the black stuff after you got the tiles up?
> > Also...if using vinyl would you use tiles or roll...and what would you
use
> > to hold the edges down?
>
Cindy with the 59 Traveler and anyone else interested,
I recently came across a limited supply of vintage looking 9X9 Vinyl
Composition Tiles (VCT) made by Kentile. They were apparently produced to
appear like the old asphalt tiles that were used in our vintage rigs and
other historic buildings. I was told that Kentile went out of 7 years ago
so these are "new old stock". I purchased enough for me to cover the floors
of my 57 Sovereign of the Road and my 59 Ambassador International. The
store still has 5 boxes of the beige tiles left and 15 boxes of the
burgundy. Each box covers 45 sq ft and they cost $22.50 +tax each. Thats
only .50 a sq ft. I checked the the lot numbers and they all match for the
remaining boxes. If anyone is interested in seeing what they look like,
email me off list and I'll send you a scan of the two options. I live in
upstate NY so shipping may be an issue however there may be ways around this
depending on where you live. I was really amazed when I came across these
and feel that it would be a shame to see them go into someones basement
playroom.
I've learned a lot from this list and hopefully I'm giving back a little.
Thanks,
Colin Hyde
WBCCI, VAC 10247
brownhyde@primelink1.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:14:42 EDT
From: NotoriousBuz@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Top replacement
You can clue laminate to laminate however if this is to go on a top that
folds back on it's self you may encounter a problem with clearance. The 2
additional laminate surfaces will add 3/32 in. in total thickness when the
tops are closed. The hinges (soss #204 hinges) are close tolerance. I believe
they will bind when the tops are closed and cause the hinges to pull out of
the edge.
I use these hinges frequently.
J.L.Dietz #4361
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 19:37:09 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
James Greene wrote:
>
> Andy, if the door frame is so fragile, why isn't the door frame broken at
> the cut out in the frame for the regular door lock striker and bolt by
> slamming the door. What's the difference? Incidentally, I close my door -- I
> don't slam it which will break the lock internals eventually.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
The wall frame is stronger than the frame of the door that contains the
present lock. And the door frame is not blown out the size of the lock,
Airstreams use a special long "yoke" that makes a long latch bolt and
the door frame is cut just to pass that long patch bolt, not to hold the
whole lock in a hole in the frame. The trick to mounting a dead bolt in
the fixed wall and to minimize damage to the door's frame is to not
drill a 3/4" round hole and adjust it down to size with the striker
plate, but to drill a couple half inch holes, one above the other or a
whole series of 1/8" holes, and to file the aluminum to fit the
flattened bolt of the dead bolt lock. If would be preferable for the
wall to find an extra long bolt on a dead bolt so the lock parts could
be behind the aluminum with just the bolt sticking through a snug
fitting hole. Alignment could be critical, but the trick there is to put
the dead bolt assembly in the wall first, then put some paint on the tip
of the bolt and push that against the moving door frame to mark the
spot. Drill and file almost to size and apply fresh paint and mark
again. That way alignment can be perfect and the door frames retain
maximum strength.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 1960 bucket of bolts
to all of you who thought you got rid of me...
i’m BACK! and this time i actually have my very
own vintage airstream to talk about... a 1960
tradewind, which i have *lovingly* dubbed my
little “bucket of bolts,” due to the current
interior view - which consists of scattered pink
appliances, piles of cupboard doors and drawers,
and various stashes of miscellaneous peices and
parts.
i am also in the market for my very first new
part! WOO-HOOO.. a new tongue jack - the crank
broke off in my hand as i was attempting to free
my truck from the trailer after getting it home -
i like to think of this little incident as
“vintage airstream owner initiation.” if i’m
wrong, please giggle quietly to yourself and let
me have my pipe dream. SOOO, what exactly am i
looking for when i go to buy one? is there a
standard size/type for a ‘60 tradewind or is this
one of those extra fun non-standard replacement
parts?
i considered going with an electric one...
comments?
also, from what i can see, it is just bolted on.
i should be able to secure the tongue and unbolt
it? please let it be as easy as it looks. i'm
just a newbie.
Jill Hari
Eugene, Salem, & Depoe Bay, Oregon
1960 Tradewind (wow, i finally have.. sort of a
title!!!)
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: flooring - redo plywood?
what if the current floor has already been
stripped down to the plywood and that plywood is
in "so-so" condition (well, it seems sturdy, but
not totally even throughout.. like, in a few
places the wood looks more ripped up than in
other places). i was wondering if i should take
ALL the old plywood out and re-do.. then put nice
flooring on top. i have to re-look to see how it
is matching up with the cabinets... but the
cabinets have to come out anyway. the interior is
a mess. someone already started gutting and tons
of parts are just laying around.
Jill
OREGON
'70 TW
> My concern would be the thickness of the
> flooring.
>
> If the flooring currently goes under the
> furniture/appliances, and the
> thickness of the new flooring doesn't match the
> old flooring, or if the
> current flooring doesn't go under the
> furniture/appliances, and you want to
> put the new flooring under them, then the holes
> in the trailer wall that
> are used to attach the furniture/appliances
> will not match up when you go
> to re-install.
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:27:28 -0400
From: "tmeeker" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: flooring - redo plywood?
Jill,
Use marine grade plywood if you do any replacement at all for the subfloor.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jill Hari" <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:08 PM
Subject: [VAC] flooring - redo plywood?
> what if the current floor has already been
> stripped down to the plywood and that plywood is
> in "so-so" condition (well, it seems sturdy, but
> not totally even throughout.. like, in a few
> places the wood looks more ripped up than in
> other places). i was wondering if i should take
> ALL the old plywood out and re-do.. then put nice
> flooring on top. i have to re-look to see how it
> is matching up with the cabinets... but the
> cabinets have to come out anyway. the interior is
> a mess. someone already started gutting and tons
> of parts are just laying around.
>
> Jill
> OREGON
> '70 TW
>
> > My concern would be the thickness of the
> > flooring.
> >
> > If the flooring currently goes under the
> > furniture/appliances, and the
> > thickness of the new flooring doesn't match the
> > old flooring, or if the
> > current flooring doesn't go under the
> > furniture/appliances, and you want to
> > put the new flooring under them, then the holes
> > in the trailer wall that
> > are used to attach the furniture/appliances
> > will not match up when you go
> > to re-install.
>
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 22:33:43 -0500
From: John Schubert <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: AUE 24590
On my propane bottles are stickers with the initials AUE 24590, I think this
was the original owners initials & wbcci number, does anyone with an old
book between 1983-1993 have this number & initials listed?
John (3098)
1983 Excella
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:52:18 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: flooring - redo plywood?
Hi, Jill - and welcome back
Tongue jack... I'd prop up the tongue a bit higher than normal (you'll see
why, i think), remove the old jack, and bring it with you when you go to a
regular utility trailer/horse trailer place (the rv places tend to gouge on
these items). If the jack is mounted from below the tongue, it needs to be
cranked all the way 'up' (shortest length), bolts loosened, and dropped down
from the tongue... this seems to me to be the 'correct' way to bolt a tongue
jack onto your trailer, so that the weight of the trailer pushes down onto
the flange... however, it's much easier to mount/remove it from above, so i
guess that's why most of them are installed that way... if anyone knows a
reason that the jack should be mounted one way or another, i'm sure they'll
chime in.
Floor - if the subfloor seems solid (not 'spongey' in places/no daylight)
i'd leave it in place... float some wood putty (better yet, what they call
'water putty' into the voids and low-spots... sand the whole floor flat,
then soak it with that penetrating epoxy from Fiberglass Coatings in
Florida... much less expensive than the equivalent stuff from West Marine...
i would not recommend messing with floor-replacement unless you're prepared
to go for a full shell-off renovation - you might not have to remove the
shell, but you might... Once the sub-floor is flat and sealed, you can put
any damned thing on it your heart desires... i'm still favoring the cork
stuff...
Have fun!
Tuna
(who just traded the '99 Durango for an '02 Dodge Ram 3500 dually, with I6
Cummins and is suffering from sticker shock)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jill Hari" <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 8:08 PM
Subject: [VAC] flooring - redo plywood?
> what if the current floor has already been
> stripped down to the plywood and that plywood is
> in "so-so" condition (well, it seems sturdy, but
> not totally even throughout.. like, in a few
> places the wood looks more ripped up than in
> other places). i was wondering if i should take
> ALL the old plywood out and re-do.. then put nice
> flooring on top. i have to re-look to see how it
> is matching up with the cabinets... but the
> cabinets have to come out anyway. the interior is
> a mess. someone already started gutting and tons
> of parts are just laying around.
>
> Jill
> OREGON
> '70 TW
>
> > My concern would be the thickness of the
> > flooring.
> >
> > If the flooring currently goes under the
> > furniture/appliances, and the
> > thickness of the new flooring doesn't match the
> > old flooring, or if the
> > current flooring doesn't go under the
> > furniture/appliances, and you want to
> > put the new flooring under them, then the holes
> > in the trailer wall that
> > are used to attach the furniture/appliances
> > will not match up when you go
> > to re-install.
>
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:57:42 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
Jill,
Congratulations on your newly acquired "bucket of bolts". Breaking the
jackpost is just the beginning of your initiation.
I would suggest you seriously consider an electric jackpost. Your Tradewind
has a dry tongue weight of 340lbs. Hitching up with a load equalizing hitch
will require cranking the post up with the truck locked in the coupler to
ease the hookup of the spring bars. With that kind of weight added you will
get a workout with a hand crank. The electric jackpost will make life soooo
much easier. The currently available H&H jackpost cost around $300. Atwood
makes one as well, but it is noisier and makes adding a flag mount harder.
They both have switch lites on the post and the H&H has an easily
accessible manual over ride.
The older coach A frames had a second gusset plate at the bottom behind the
coupler. Often this plate's hole was only big enough for the inner tube and
will have to be enlarged for most newer jackposts of either type.
If you decide to stay with a manual jackpost I strongly recommend you get a
sidewinder rather than a top wind. Top winds can be real knuckle busters.
Charlie
PS: We just loved the Sea Hag on Friday night.
Jill Hari wrote:
> to all of you who thought you got rid of me...
> i’m BACK! and this time i actually have my very
> own vintage airstream to talk about... a 1960
> tradewind, which i have *lovingly* dubbed my
> little “bucket of bolts,” due to the current
> interior view - which consists of scattered pink
> appliances, piles of cupboard doors and drawers,
> and various stashes of miscellaneous peices and
> parts.
>
> i am also in the market for my very first new
> part! WOO-HOOO.. a new tongue jack - the crank
> broke off in my hand as i was attempting to free
> my truck from the trailer after getting it home -
> i like to think of this little incident as
> “vintage airstream owner initiation.” if i’m
> wrong, please giggle quietly to yourself and let
> me have my pipe dream. SOOO, what exactly am i
> looking for when i go to buy one? is there a
> standard size/type for a ‘60 tradewind or is this
> one of those extra fun non-standard replacement
> parts?
>
> i considered going with an electric one...
> comments?
>
> also, from what i can see, it is just bolted on.
> i should be able to secure the tongue and unbolt
> it? please let it be as easy as it looks. i'm
> just a newbie.
>
> Jill Hari
> Eugene, Salem, & Depoe Bay, Oregon
> 1960 Tradewind (wow, i finally have.. sort of a
> title!!!)
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:21:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: jack replacement
> Hi, Jill - and welcome back Tongue jack...
oh GREAT. i can see this *jack* and *jill* thing
getting waaaay outa hand.
> I'd prop up the tongue a bit higher than
> normal (you'll see why, i think), remove the
> old jack, and bring it with you.
if i am overly paranoid (which is true) about
making sure the trailer is stable and NOT going
to MOVE at all while i'm removing the jack.. is
there anything more i can do besides blocks of
wood in front of and behind the tires? i have
large masonry type blocks in front of tires and
4x4 wood blocks behind (i only have two of the
masonry blocks). for some reason i'm still not
convinced this is good enough. it also concerns
me that curious passers-by might approach and
lean on the trailer to try and look in and i want
to be sure it's locked in place. the tongue
resting on a pile of wood while i'm off replacing
the jack seems a bit sketchy.
Jill
Whimpy Newbie
'60 TW
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:05:39 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
Cangrats, Jill from another early Trade Wind owner. I've not had to deal
with replacing a tongue jack, but have dealt with most everything else, it
seems. If I can offer assistance, just holler. Maybe this year we'll get up
to the Oregon Coast, been a few years and we're due.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix (hotspot)
'59 Trade Wind
#2699 VAC, TCT
on 6/24/02 8:02 PM, Jill Hari at jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> to all of you who thought you got rid of me...
> i?m BACK! and this time i actually have my very
> own vintage airstream to talk about... a 1960
> tradewind, which i have *lovingly* dubbed my
> little ?bucket of bolts,
>
> Jill Hari
> Eugene, Salem, & Depoe Bay, Oregon
> 1960 Tradewind (wow, i finally have.. sort of a
> title!!!)
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 01:41:42 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 1960 bucket of bolts
For parking a single axle trailer I prefer wedges or chocks (Walmart
sells some workable plastic ones reasonably). What I've done for my
Caravel over the winter was to acquire a nylon strap almost long enough
(next time I'll get a longer one) to reach around the pair of chocks on
one wheel, then used a chain load binder to pull the straps tight
against the chocks. That has anchored it well since the last time I
wanted to move it. There is a commercial product that does the job but I
didn't appreciate the price when I found one.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 04:01:04 EDT
From: CAniteOwl@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: 54 Bubble advertised
This is an ad in the GoodTimes Gazette (Goodguys classic car and rods group).
I called just to be sure it was still available (it is) and where it is
located (a little north of Santa Rosa, CA). I also asked what set-up for
street rodding meant - "no appliances for cooking". The seller said he
belongs to the vintage group and had gone on some rallies with them.
He advertised it with the vintage group.
THE AD:
For Sale-1954 Airstream Bubble, 16' long, queen bed in it, pulled for 5 yrs
behind a '37 Ford Convertible, set up for street rodding. $13,000 o.b.o.
(707) 857-4061 CA
------------
This must be a pretty rare Airstream. I would love to have seen it with the
37 Ford - I'll have to check out the vintage group rally pictures. -Norma
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:48:53 EDT
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Yet Another Rally Interest Poll for the Midwest
Hello folks-
Here is yet another interest poll for a rally in Indiana.
I did receive a few notes of interest when I polled earlier this year, but
the facility I was planning to use was parceled up and sold off the build a
strip mall. That's Indiana...
I have a conceptual thought about a rally here in Indianapolis that would be
more of a show of restored trailers to race fans gathering to attend the
Indianapolis 500.
The WBCCI Indianapolis 500 rally will be held in 2003, and is traditionally
held at the Indiana State Fairgrounds, about 5 miles from the Speedway.
How about a special parking display, and public exhibition of Vintage
Airstreams?
Would folks be interested in participating in such a rally? There would be
significant interest by locals and tourists to see such an exhibition.
A second or additional option suggested to me would be the weekend of October
11-13, 2002 in conjunction with the Parke County Covered Bridge Festival, a
popular regional fall festival. Most other fall VAC events are near the
coastal states. This would give a good opportunity to those who cannot commit
so many days to travel to a fall rally.
I will be glad to organize something IF there is some interest in a
Midwestern weekend rally.
I invite discussion, and suggestions.
Write to me off list for more info, &c.
Alex (in Indiana) Kensington
8728
66 Safari & Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 06:29:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: check valve for PAR pump
I put the check valve right at the outlet of the pump.
If/when the pump valves wear out, water will not flow
back through the pump when connected to city water. I
did not have this problem myself (the former owner was
clever enough to cut out 4 feet of the supply line!)
But, I did hear from someone who woke up one day to
find water running out of his filler spout.
The light action is to avoid significant pressure drop
across the valve. This would be wasted work and
battery power. I know it sounds hard to believe that
it matters, but this effect is very obvious in high
pressure hydraulic systems. Waste is waste, IMHO.
As for the happy wife, a lady on list figured it out
without any difficulty. What wife isn't happier when
she doesn't have to haul water from the hydrant? We
used to be tent campers, so she's happy even though it
isn't even hot yet.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
Workin' on that waterheater
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:25:53 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Jim.
What you can or cannot do to the door frame or jam, depends on what year it
is.
Many dealers make good service money by repairing some of the "seemingly
good" modifications that were made.
Many owners slam the door for several reasons. Wrong gasket, improper
alignment, no lube, etc.
I still am amazed that Airstream is always at fault because someone can't
modify something, "their way."
But I can tell you Jim, that we have repaired hundreds of doors, that were
abused or modified when they should not have been.
One of the best reasons not to, is that a replacement door, screen door and
jamb, costs over $ 2000.00, and if it's on an older trailer, the shell must
also be modified.
Using a dead bolt is usually a cover up for worn lock parts and/or unbalanced
running gear.
Doors just don't fly open. There is always a cause for it, that could have
been prevented, with typically, a little proper service.
Parts wear. Not replacing them, or addressing the issue, is asking for a
problem, that usually becomes very accommodating.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:48:16 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: ead bolt
Different strokes for different folks, Jim. Sorry you are unhappy.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <jop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 21:43
Subject: [VAC] Re: ead bolt
> A sure way to be really mad at yourself is to install a deadbolt in your
> airstream door. It will not improve the security of your unit any
> significant amount but it will sure look shoddy and lessen the strength of
> the door over the long term. I have a 63 door that someone installed a
> deadbolt long before me. It looks silly and makes me angry every time I
look
> at the door. I would gladly trade my door with deadbolt already installed
> for a like one witout a deadbolt. Might even give a little boot.
> Jim taylor 63 and 73.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:20:15 -0700
From: "William Henshall" <willy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Floor repair/replace question....and an update on where I am at on my shell off floor replacement.
Here's my personal well learned tuppence worth (ie 2 cents)...I second what
Phil says in his message below...fundemental floor reconstruction is not to
be taken lightly.
I am right in the middle of a total floor replacement on our 58 18ft
Traveler. And what a royal pain in the b**t it has been.
You can either
1 Try and fit a 4ftx8ft wide piece (cut into sections to fit over the
chassis frame struts) in under the u channel edges (This is much easier said
than done. The aluminum outer panels are very easy to damage. One slip with
a hammer...)
2 Or you can patch and build with epoxy
3 Or you can bite the (silver) bullet and do it properly with the shell off
full floor replacement.
Most folk on this list are against epoxy...and I was swayed by this. I took
the view that it would be as tricky to patch the individual pieces by
slipping new sections in under the u-channel as discussed in previous
messages as it would be to pull the shell off and start over. That has
proved not to be necessarily true in my case. Read on :)
Since then I have researched the runny epoxy, drilling holes to create
anchors in the good wood with new added floor strengthening underneath
solution and there are many cases where this would work fine. Including mine
maybe.
Depends if you intend keeping your trailer for another 40 years or not!
Clearly, a new floor is just that, a completely new rot free floor. And
while you have the chassis out you can reweld/patch that too. And look at
the axles etc. If you do this it should out last most of us reading this! A
family heirloom, anyone?
Using epoxy in the amounts needed is tricky however as the off gas is
dangerous. Even well ventilated spots will make your head spin after 15
minutes. You have to build the patches up little by little, letting each one
dry before adding to it. The way to research this method is the marine
world. This technique is done for boat renovation all the time. And
structural strength is even more vital there. So it is possible.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/L/BoatL/Bqa.html is a good place to start looking
for info.
So here's what I did:-
Our floor was really bad in 4 places and I had to make the call of either
replacing it throughout or trying to patch it. the interior was all trash
any way and so it was an empty shell.
After talking to a lot of people I decided to replace it with a shell off
rebuild, a chassis overhaul and a new belly pan replacement.
This is a *big* job. do not be fooled! Once you start it, you are committed.
I remember looking at the shell lifted off sitting on saw horses, off and
the chassis pulled out and thinking, hmmm I hope this is going to go to
plan....it did not.
And still is not, as I am yet to finally get the shell back on as I type
this. For instance I used a different thickness aluminum for the replacement
belly pan, .040" as used on the newer trailers, and I realized too late that
the .017" extra thickness on the overlap all the way round would equal about
an inch extra diameter all the way round. So my shell is like a too tight
pair of pants after thanksgiving. I am right now in the middle of shimming
off a quarter inch round the back of the floor/frame to make it fit. A real
drag as the belly pan is all riveted on, the u-channel is bolted and screwed
down and both have to come off to do this.
The shell is pretty delicate when it is off the original floor and is a
little too heavy to be easily and accurately moved without 3 solid people.
A professional (like Inland RV) shop can do this in about 40 hours and
around 3500 bucks...however, if you are like me, and want or need to do it
yourself, you are reasonably handy and have a good assortment of tools; but
are doing this for the first time on your own without a regular helper like
me you can expect at least 150 to 200 hours of hard physical work.
I don't know if any of this info is of help in your specific case, but I
just wanted to chip in and share my recent experience.
Interestingly, I was asked if I would do a shell off new floor again, and I
would if I needed to on another trailer. It would be a lot easier second
time around. Learned a lot of the snags as we went along. I think I could do
it with a helper in about 70-80 hours. Although I would really check out the
epoxy restore option in conjunction with new wood panels in detail first.
Actually, scrub that, I would make sure I bought one with a totally solid
floor :))))
I have been working on a web site with detailed pictures of the whole
adventure and will try and get it live in the next few days. I'll post the
list with the url when I do.
Best to all
Will Henshall
1990 345LE Motorhome
1958 18ft Traveler (in pieces...)
San Francisco CA
WBCCI #8048
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:44:35 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: loor repair
Chris
I assume your floor is rotted in the rear bath. I do not believe that you
can push a new piece in from the outside.
Whether you use a complete 4x8 or a partial, you'll have to do it from the
inside, and in sections as you cannot get a full width sheet into the rear
channel and both side channels at the same time. The last section needs to
be fit perfectly, wedged in and banged on (stressing the channel somewhat).
Plan each section to fit the edges half-way over the frame members in order
to get a firm floor.
I hope I never start a flooring project again, once was enough.
Phil
Guilford CT
63 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:41:51 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: flooring - redo plywood?
Gee, Jill, don't do anything you don't have to. Replacing the sub-floor or
sections of sub-floor is a MAJOR job. If what you've got isn't rotten (poke
around with a knife or screwdriver) just level it out with filler. Look
especially close in the rear, the front, and around the door. If you find
rotten wood, you'll know it, the knife might go right through.
Phil
Guilford CT
63 Overlander
and still suffering from floor replacement nightmares.
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:52:25 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Top replacement
If this is a potential problem, use the thinner vertical grade laminate
(somtimes called V 32 in the trade, as it is 1/32" thick). The face and
wear surface of the vertical grade is identical to that of the thicker
Standard, All purpose and Post forming grades.
Oliver Filippi
A cabinetmaker in a former life
----- Original Message -----
From: <NotoriousBuz@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: [VAC] Top replacement
> You can clue laminate to laminate however if this is to go on a top that
> folds back on it's self you may encounter a problem with clearance. The 2
> additional laminate surfaces will add 3/32 in. in total thickness when the
> tops are closed. The hinges (soss #204 hinges) are close tolerance. I
believe
> they will bind when the tops are closed and cause the hinges to pull out
of
> the edge.
>
>
> I use these hinges frequently.
> J.L.Dietz #4361
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:51:09 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Raton Pass
on 06/22/02 3:57 PM, johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> By the way I've been wondering to write you for a long time about the
> Walmart on top of Raton Pass, still have not found it yet. I think it was
> John at Oasis who was wondering also. (heehee)
Hi Ken,
The Walmart I mentioned two winters ago was alive and well at the very top
of Raton Pass, where the shopping mall is located. At the time, we bought a
set of tire chains for just in case --- when we came back over the pass two
weeks later. Didn't use them --- now I have a new set of tire chains that
will probably never be used. That's the way it goes when buying insurance.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:51:13 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 6.2 Diesel RPM?
on 06/22/02 3:57 PM, johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> What RPM at you at at 60mph, I'm at about 2700 in drive which seems high, but
> the truck seems to hum along fine. I've got a 4:10 rear.
>
Hi Ken,
Good question, but there's no RPM gauge among the dash displays on my truck.
What I do notice at speeds over 60 mph while towing OR NOT TOWING is the
fuel mileage seems to be slightly better. That's illogical to me, but this
is my first diesel engine truck so I have nothing for comparison.
Another thing I notice at speeds over 60 mph while towing is how quiet the
engine is in comparison to my Van's 460 CID gasoline engine at similar
speeds. It could be different sound deadening material in the fire wall and
hump and/or the fact that the diesel engine is out front and farther away
from where we sit.
Another thing I have just noticed is how peppy the diesel engine is here in
Colorado Springs at 8,000 feet in comparison to how unpeppy the 460 CID was
last year when we were here with our Van. There is no question but the Van
is peppier when towing hills starting from sea level (or thereabouts).
If you become a member of diesel owners club, this entitles you to free
consultation by phone when questions arise. Furthermore, it entitles you to
offering your mechanic a free consultation when he hits a snag while
repairing your diesel engine. I've used the latter option and the mechanic
was greatly appreciative (as was I).
Secondly, members may purchase the exact parts needed for repairs with 100%
confidence they are original equipment quality -- and at a fair price. Fed
Ex can find us in any campground on the continent, plus for a few bucks
more, they find us the day after I order the parts.
If you are doing your own service work while traveling, these two features
can save your bacon without half trying.
Enough chit chat,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:51:44 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Floor repair/replace question
Thanks William for the eye-opener on floor replacement. I've been following
the thread because I am just about to start repairs on my 66 Safari. I
pulled out the old asbestos tile and got rid of it at our hazardous dump
site.
It came up easily except under the couches. The screws that hold the
couches in place will only come out with an impact screw driver and I am
wondering if it would not be better to just leave the small amount of old
tile that is wedged under the couches and flush mount the new tile?
The floor looks good except by the door where weather has taken it's toll
and there is a small amount of rot. There is also a trace of rot in the
head but not large. Big problem for me is that someone installed a floor
heater in the bathroom. It doesn't work so we will be pulling it. That
will leave two rectangular holes. The largest hole is 14' x 20'. I am
definitely in the dark about how to make a solid patch for a hole this
large. The surrounding area appears solid and dry. Any suggestions would
be appreciated.
I would to join the school that believes epoxy is a good way to go. Living
right near Oceanside Marina, I have an excellent source of technical help
nearby. Thanks for all the good info on floors. I have taken the liberty
of pruning the Subject title and cutting the previous message which was very
informative and very long. Thanks William!
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:23:50 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Floor repair/replace question
Cruiser -
I think the floor registers may be original equipment - Airstream ducted
heated air under the floor to keep the pipes/holding tank(s) from freezing
in colder climes...
To patch those openings, i'd be inclined to glue-and-screw some 1x2 strips,
or a solid piece of 1/2" OSB across the opening from the underside of the
floor, and glue-and-screw the patches into them from above.
Tuna
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:32:49 EDT
From: NotoriousBuz@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Top Replacement
Jim, The SOSS hinges are readily available thru any cabinet shop that is
more than an outlet for out of the box cabinets. They are available in a
variety of finishes, polished chrome, brass. Brushed nickel or brass. There
could be more but these are the flavors I use. If you have trouble locating
them locally E-mail me and I can fix you up.
Oliver, Using the post forming grade or the vertical grade my give the
clearance needed for closing. I would try putting a couple of sheets between
the tops (making sure the sheets go back to the hinges) just to be sure. Also
vertical or postforming grade may be difficult to get a hold of. Again I
would start my search at a cabinet shop or a countertop shop. These grades
are not normally stocked by wholesalers, and region distributors usually only
stock basic colors or the colors that the post forming shops are using. Many
times white, off white. Wherever they come from ordering will be necessary.
Bypassing the clerk at Home Depot will save weeks.
Sorry for running these two messages together, but ever since the new VAC
server has been in place I can no longer hit reply and copy the previous
message. Apparently AOL 7.0 uses the HTML format when replying and there is
no way of turning it off. And 7.0 is the only AOL that runs properly with Win
XP. Go figure.
J.L.Dietz #4361
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:37:54 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: jack replacement
If the Bucket O' Bolts is going to be stationary during the whole
renovation, you may want to put it 'up on blocks' anyway... locate four
points on the frame (two forward of the axle, two aft) and jack the whole
trailer up so that the tires are just barely touching the ground. Get
yourself a 2000lb floor jack (harbor freight, or pep boys, wal-mart, etc...
about $60.00) and some more of those cinder blocks, too.
If you want to keep the wheels on the ground, though, you ought to be using
wheel chocks... the curved/wedge-shaped things... They'll keep the trailer
from rolling. I like to chock the wheels front and back, too... unless it's
a twin axle - then the chocks go between the tires...
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jill Hari" <jillhari@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 9:21 PM
Subject: [VAC] jack replacement
>
> > Hi, Jill - and welcome back Tongue jack...
>
> oh GREAT. i can see this *jack* and *jill* thing
> getting waaaay outa hand.
>
> > I'd prop up the tongue a bit higher than
> > normal (you'll see why, i think), remove the
> > old jack, and bring it with you.
>
> if i am overly paranoid (which is true) about
> making sure the trailer is stable and NOT going
> to MOVE at all while i'm removing the jack.. is
> there anything more i can do besides blocks of
> wood in front of and behind the tires? i have
> large masonry type blocks in front of tires and
> 4x4 wood blocks behind (i only have two of the
> masonry blocks). for some reason i'm still not
> convinced this is good enough. it also concerns
> me that curious passers-by might approach and
> lean on the trailer to try and look in and i want
> to be sure it's locked in place. the tongue
> resting on a pile of wood while i'm off replacing
> the jack seems a bit sketchy.
>
> Jill
> Whimpy Newbie
> '60 TW
>
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:41:17 -0700
From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: Blond Wood Stain
Group:
I have a '62 GT with the blond or yellow stain on top of the laminated
plywood. Anyone know who carries a match for this stain?
Thx,
David
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:52:14 -0400
From: Cynthia Grant <Cynthia.Grant@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Our 68 Caravel doesn't even lock from the inside - at least I can't see any way that it does, and the door hardware appears to be original. Is this unusual? It seems awfully strange to me that they would have sold a trailer that way. I wouldn't want to
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 4:14 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
>
>
> Dave. If you do mount a dead bolt, it's not a matter of what
> will happen,
> it's when. You will damage the door frame, by simply slamming it shut.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:01:00 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Floor repair/replace question
Hey Tuna,
That sounds pretty reasonable. I hadn't thought about it, but after the
floor heater is pulled, there will be a hole in the bottom skin. At that
point I can get access to do a complete bottom support and then just do an
inlay to make the floor smooth and level. Thanks for the tip.
Just curious if other 66 Safari owners (Victor, Alex, George :) have heaters
in their BR floors.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:04:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
My '68 Caravel locks from the inside with a little button below the
handle. I think it's precarious at best and I've had the lock out and
apart and tweaked. Later locks pull the handle up to lock. There is such
a modern lock that will fit the space if the yoke is replaced with a
longer one. I found lock and yoke (not assembled) in St. Louis a couple
years ago for about $65. Assembled they were quoted at over $200. The
rub is that the outside knob becomes the ordinary RV lock knob, not the
custom Airstream bar handle. I've not yet made the swap.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:59:42 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Blond Wood Stain
David, I had to replace the bulkheads and some cabinetry in my Tradewind
that had delaminated from long term water exposure. After trying 5-6
different color finishes from Home Depot and Lowes, one of the cabinet
makers on the list suggested having a cabinet shop or antiques refinisher
blend just the right color finish I wanted. I called 2-3 and one of them
referred me to a local refinishing supply store that mixed up just what I
wanted. Inexpensive too. Worked out great for me.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 13:41
Subject: [VAC] Blond Wood Stain
> Group:
>
> I have a '62 GT with the blond or yellow stain on top of the laminated
> plywood. Anyone know who carries a match for this stain?
>
> Thx,
>
> David
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:03:28 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical grade (thin) high pressure laminate
Jim,
Vertical grade laminate is readily available. All of the major laminate
manufacturers (Formica, Wilsonart, Nevamar, etc.) make it and their
distributors typically stock it. [Some special colors and patterns may not
be abailable in vertical grade, but this is only a small fraction of the
colors and patterns]. the trick is to find the local Distributor. If the
Yellow Pages fail you, ask a cabinetmaker who works with laminate where he
gets his.
For what it's worth, Nevamar has the most durable surface finish/resin
formulation. They are all priced about the same, as the business is quite
competitive. Most wholesale distributors will sell to you. If not, they
will give you the name of a local cabinetmaker to purchase it through.
Good luck,
Oliver Filippi
P.S. If you are still stuck, e-mail me directly and I'll see what I can do
for you.
Re hinges:
If they will fit, the European concealed type might be a better bet, as they
are easily adjusted AFTER they are installed. The Soss MUST be mortised and
installed correctly to work and fit properly. The best technique is to make
a special jig and use a router to cut the mortise.
Sugatsune {Lamp} makes a line of stainless steel euro hinges which would be
the most corrosion resistant. These are typically available from a
cabinetmaker supplier.
Oliver
----- Original Message -----
From: <NotoriousBuz@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 10:32 AM
Subject: [VAC] Top Replacement
> Jim, The SOSS hinges are readily available thru any cabinet shop that is
> more than an outlet for out of the box cabinets. They are available in a
> variety of finishes, polished chrome, brass. Brushed nickel or brass.
There
> could be more but these are the flavors I use. If you have trouble
locating
> them locally E-mail me and I can fix you up.
>
> Oliver, Using the post forming grade or the vertical grade my give the
> clearance needed for closing. I would try putting a couple of sheets
between
> the tops (making sure the sheets go back to the hinges) just to be sure.
Also
> vertical or postforming grade may be difficult to get a hold of. Again I
> would start my search at a cabinet shop or a countertop shop. These grades
> are not normally stocked by wholesalers, and region distributors usually
only
> stock basic colors or the colors that the post forming shops are using.
Many
> times white, off white. Wherever they come from ordering will be
necessary.
> Bypassing the clerk at Home Depot will save weeks.
>
> Sorry for running these two messages together, but ever since the new VAC
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:58:20 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Cynthia, my ' 68 Tradewind has an inside lock. Turning the knob one way
opens the door, turning it the other way locks the lock. I have a
replacement door lock but it looks just like the one left in the trailer by
the previous owner so I'm assuming it is a duplicate of the original
equipment. Maybe yours works the same way.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Grant" <Cynthia.Grant@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 13:52
Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
> Our 68 Caravel doesn't even lock from the inside - at least I can't see
any way that it does, and the door hardware appears to be original. Is this
unusual? It seems awfully strange to me that they would have sold a trailer
that way. I wouldn't want to travel with it without a more secure door, so
all the info about deadbolt installation is of great interest!
>
> Cynthia
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:10:29 -0400
From: Cynthia Grant <Cynthia.Grant@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Thanks, I haven't tried that yet - I'll see if that does the trick. (I still want a deadbolt, though. :-))
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Greene [mailto:drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 2:58 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
>
>
> Cynthia, my ' 68 Tradewind has an inside lock. Turning the
> knob one way
> opens the door, turning it the other way locks the lock. I have a
> replacement door lock but it looks just like the one left in
> the trailer by
> the previous owner so I'm assuming it is a duplicate of the original
> equipment. Maybe yours works the same way.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cynthia Grant" <Cynthia.Grant@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 13:52
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
>
>
> > Our 68 Caravel doesn't even lock from the inside - at least
> I can't see
> any way that it does, and the door hardware appears to be
> original. Is this
> unusual? It seems awfully strange to me that they would have
> sold a trailer
> that way. I wouldn't want to travel with it without a more
> secure door, so
> all the info about deadbolt installation is of great interest!
> >
> > Cynthia
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:15:23 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Gerald. The L-100 special lock sells for $ 119.95, complete, but with a round
interior knob instead of the handle that always breaks. Turning the knob
counter clockwise from the inside, locks it. The "special" includes the
extended striker bolt, and is completely assembled.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:42:38 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
This is the same lock I had in my previous 1969 A/S. It worked great. When
you shut the door the little flap on the screened door would fold back flush
from the knob. Good deal too, from Inland Rv.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:15 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
> Gerald. The L-100 special lock sells for $ 119.95, complete, but with a
round
> interior knob instead of the handle that always breaks. Turning the knob
> counter clockwise from the inside, locks it. The "special" includes the
> extended striker bolt, and is completely assembled.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
>
>
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Message Number: 39
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:42:33 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Since it's probably not appropriate for Andy to post the link, I'll do it -
i have no connection to Inland RV:
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/ - second from the bottom, and it even has a
photo.
This looks like a great solution to the main door latch issue.
FWIW, way back in the '70's, when i was full-timing in a '65 GlobeTrotter, i
simply removed the entire doorknob/latch mechanism, and replaced it with a
Schlage keyed deadbolt. Thereafter, the door had no knob or handle, and
could only be opened (from the outside) with the key. I really liked this
arrangement. As i recall, i had some serious hand-grinding and filing to do
to make the receiver opening for the bolt, but when the new striker plate
was JB welded and screwed into place, i figured the door-frame was stronger
than ever...
BTW, this was the GT which was stolen in 1979 by the young couple who were
subletting it from the guy to whom i was renting it... it was a very clean
GT, the deadbolt entry is/was the only distinguishing feature (visible from
the outside)... so, whenever i see a '60's GT, the first thing i look at is
the doorknob.
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 3:15 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
> Gerald. The L-100 special lock sells for $ 119.95, complete, but with a
round
> interior knob instead of the handle that always breaks. Turning the knob
> counter clockwise from the inside, locks it. The "special" includes the
> extended striker bolt, and is completely assembled.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
>
>
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