The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, June 24, 2002 Issue 344
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
2. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
3. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
4. Re: Floor tar removal
5. Re: Floor tar removal
6. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
7. Re: table laminate surface renewal
8. Re: flooring - wall to wall or cut to fit?
9. Re: flooring - wall to wall or cut to fit?
10. Need a work site in S/W Ohio area
11. Re: ubject: Table laminate surface renewal
12. Bowen water heater
13. Re: edging strip for flooring
14. water pump and pressure regulator
15. Re: water pump and pressure regulator
16. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
17. Re: loor repair
18. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
19. Suggested Camping Along Route 66 corridor
20. Deadbolt FUD?
21. Shock Replacement Part Number
22. A compendium of shock posts from the past two years.
23. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
24. Re: water pump and pressure regulator
25. floor repair
26. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
27. PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
28. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
29. Re: Table laminate surface renewal
30. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
31. Re: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
32. Re: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:24:16 -0400
From: "tmeeker" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
John,
A heat gun should soften the glue enough so that you'd be able to get a
putty knife under it somewhere around the edge.
3M makes a good product for removing contact cement glue which is most
likely what holds that old Formica to the wooden table top.
Once you have the old Formica removed you need to use the heat gun again
along with the putty knife (round the corners of the putty knife to keep
from gouging the wood!) to continue removing the old adhesive.
Of course you could also use the 3M product as well but it won't entirely
remove old glue. From there on out it will take sanding with a belt sander
so you can remove material faster than a pad sander. Be careful not to keep
the belt sander in one place too long or you will make a depression and the
table top will no longer be flat.
Formica can be purchased at Home Depot but it won't be *original*. For an
exact replacement you may want to see if Airstream in Ohio can help you here
or at least try and give you the old "part no." for the people who
originally made the Formica.
Contact cement applied to both sides which is then allowed to dry *before*
putting the two pieces together is next. Use a wide flat wooden roller to
smooth out the Formica. Smooth out the Formica with the roller as you
slowly attach it to the wood top.
The new Formica piece should be cut "almost" to size with a bit of overhang
"just in case" you don't get it perfectly centered. A router with a small
radius bit will then finish off the job.
If your table needs a new formica edge also, you didn't say, then you may
want to check with a cabinet shop to ask their advice about which to put on
first; the new Formica top or the edging.
Hope this helps.
Tom - WBCCI #5303
> Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate
(Formica?) on
> the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
> but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
> sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
> I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see
paying $300
> ++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
> project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate?
Chemicals?
> Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,
> without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
>
> John Anderson
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 17:24:11 -0700
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
The old laminate probably won't be colored all the way through... to remove
it, us a heat-gun, start at the edges, lift it up with a stiff putty-knife.
The heat will soften/release the contact cement holding the laminate to the
substrate. Re-surfacing tables/countertops is really easy, with modern
materials. Good luck!
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 4:38 PM
Subject: [VAC] Table laminate surface renewal
> Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate
(Formica?) on
> the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
> but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
> sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
> I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see
paying $300
> ++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
> project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate?
Chemicals?
> Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,
> without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
>
> John Anderson
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:50:56 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
John,
I just rebuild my '68 and have done a '60. It takes patience and luck. I
found that I could get a knife between the laminate and the wood all the way
around the top and sides and started loosening the laminate. Then I took a
wide putty knife and continued to pry the old laminate off. Sometimes it
started to take some of the wood off and I had to stop, try to separate the
wood or cut the wood so it wouldn't continue ripping off. Sometimes the
laminate broke and I had to get the knife and start again. When all of the
old laminate was gone (or most) I sanded all of the wood and used some
strong putty to fill all of the wood voids. Then sanded again for a good
base. Important to have solid support for the laminate and 90 degree edges
so the laminate lays right where it matches. Putting the new laminate on
was straight forward if you've done it before. If not, practice on some
wood and get the feel of it. Don't want to have to remove the new laminate
again if you mess something up - I speak from experience! The latest table
I did had rounded corners and I had a terrible time getting the laminate to
bend around the corner. Either I changed the radius when I cleaned up the
piece, or the factory had some special laminate. I tried 4 times, heating a
little, a lot etc., but it always cracked either right away or after
cooling. I ended up using real wood veneer. You can tell the difference up
close, but not that noticeable. The poly on the wood makes it look pretty
close. One tip I can give is to use a high quality router bit with a ball
bearing guide. Cheap bits will just screw up your new laminate. You're
right, $300 is a lot for a table, but it is a fair amount of work. Even if
you have to buy new tools, router, sander and bit etc., you will be well
under the cost.
Good luck
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
John Anderson
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 5:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Table laminate surface renewal
Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate (Formica?)
on
the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see paying
$300
++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate? Chemicals?
Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,
without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
John Anderson
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:32:26 -0600
From: "Andy Robinowitz" <andy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Floor tar removal
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/index.pl?photo=327
I used the JASCO adhesive remover to get the sticky black mastic off. It
was amazing how easily it penetrated the adhesive and allowed for me to
scrape it off. About half way through removing the adhesive with the JASCO,
I thought I would see if I could skip a step & belt sand right through it.
That mastic really goos up the belts. I found it to be more cost effective
with a better result (also slower) to remove the mastic using the JASCO
adhesive remover and then belt sand. Boy that wood looks "brand new"!
Cheers,
Andy
1961 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:33:31 -0600
From: "Andy Robinowitz" <andy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Floor tar removal
Here is a link to the results....
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/index.pl?photo=327
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 21:55:36 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
Two professional tricks.
1. Run some lacquer thinner between the laminate and the substrate. This
will soften (partially dissolve) the contact cement.
2. Use a heat gun. This will soften the adhesive and allow you to separate
it with the knife.
Oliver Filippi
A cabinetmaker in a prior life
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Table laminate surface renewal
> John,
> I just rebuild my '68 and have done a '60. It takes patience and luck. I
> found that I could get a knife between the laminate and the wood all the
way
> around the top and sides and started loosening the laminate. Then I took
a
> wide putty knife and continued to pry the old laminate off. Sometimes it
> started to take some of the wood off and I had to stop, try to separate
the
> wood or cut the wood so it wouldn't continue ripping off. Sometimes the
> laminate broke and I had to get the knife and start again. When all of
the
> old laminate was gone (or most) I sanded all of the wood and used some
> strong putty to fill all of the wood voids. Then sanded again for a good
> base. Important to have solid support for the laminate and 90 degree
edges
> so the laminate lays right where it matches. Putting the new laminate on
> was straight forward if you've done it before. If not, practice on some
> wood and get the feel of it. Don't want to have to remove the new
laminate
> again if you mess something up - I speak from experience! The latest
table
> I did had rounded corners and I had a terrible time getting the laminate
to
> bend around the corner. Either I changed the radius when I cleaned up the
> piece, or the factory had some special laminate. I tried 4 times, heating
a
> little, a lot etc., but it always cracked either right away or after
> cooling. I ended up using real wood veneer. You can tell the difference
up
> close, but not that noticeable. The poly on the wood makes it look pretty
> close. One tip I can give is to use a high quality router bit with a ball
> bearing guide. Cheap bits will just screw up your new laminate. You're
> right, $300 is a lot for a table, but it is a fair amount of work. Even
if
> you have to buy new tools, router, sander and bit etc., you will be well
> under the cost.
> Good luck
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
> John Anderson
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 5:39 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Table laminate surface renewal
>
>
> Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate
(Formica?)
> on
> the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
> visible,
> but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
> just
> sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
> countertops,
> I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see
paying
> $300
> ++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
> this
> project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate?
Chemicals?
> Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
> polishing,
> without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
> appreciated!
>
> John Anderson
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 05:23:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: table laminate surface renewal
FWIW, I had my (house) kitchen countertops redone.
According to the installer, you can put a new layer of
formica right over the old one IF the old is firmly
attached and is only a single layer.
That work was done about five years ago and looks good
today.
If you DIY, plan on buying a sheet of formica and some
contact cement. Rough up the old stuff with
sandpaper. After the new stuff is down, use a special
router bit for laminate trim. (Obviously, you'll need
a router or it's compact cousin--the laminate
trimmer.) It's about as straightforward a laminate
job as you can do--no fancy shapes and you can remove
the top so that all the edges are easily accessible.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 05:27:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: flooring - wall to wall or cut to fit?
I am curious to get some opinions on floor
replacement. Specifically, is it better to remove the
furniture and do it wall to wall? Or, is it better to
cut the stuff to fit.
I also have some other repairs I need done. Some of
these might be combined with the flooring. (New
countertops, a few plumbing mods, new furnace or cat
heater). I'm guessing that these might sway the scale
towards the furniture removal.
The big concern is how long does it take to remove and
replace the furniture (and appliances) and do they go
back looking OK?
Thanks,
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:45:41 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: flooring - wall to wall or cut to fit?
At 05:27 AM 6/24/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I am curious to get some opinions on floor
>replacement. Specifically, is it better to remove the
>furniture and do it wall to wall? Or, is it better to
>cut the stuff to fit.
My concern would be the thickness of the flooring.
If the flooring currently goes under the furniture/appliances, and the
thickness of the new flooring doesn't match the old flooring, or if the
current flooring doesn't go under the furniture/appliances, and you want to
put the new flooring under them, then the holes in the trailer wall that
are used to attach the furniture/appliances will not match up when you go
to re-install.
I am going to replace my carpet with a laminate flooring like Pergo. The
only furniture I plan to remove prior to installation is the dinette table.
Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:52:01 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Need a work site in S/W Ohio area
I need a place where I can work on my 31' Airstream trailer for about a
week. The place where I store it doesnt have electricity, and not much room
around it, as the trailers/RVs are packed in fairly closely. I cant do it
in my driveway, as it's against local zoning to park a trailer in my driveway.
I am going to tear out the carpet and replace it with a laminate flooring.
I will need electricity for a chop saw and lighting.
I would also like to give it a good bath, so a water source would be
needed. However, this is optional.
I would be willing to pay a reasonable fee for this.
If you know of anyone or any place that would accommodate me, please let me
know.
If I cant find anything, I guess I will buy/rent a generator and do the
work at the storage area.
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:14:09 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <george.c.thomas@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: ubject: Table laminate surface renewal
>Message Number: 8
>Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:38:47 -0500
>From: John Anderson <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Subject: Table laminate surface renewal
>Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate
(Formica?) on
>the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
>but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
>sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
>I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see
paying $300
>++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
>project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate? Chemicals?
>Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,without obliterating the fake)wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
>John Anderson
Hello John,
I have worked in the cabinet making field for several years when I was
younger.
If your table is covered with laminate (Formica?) you can cover right over
it without removing the old laminate. As long as the old laminate is not
coming loose from the wood, you can use a belt sander to rough up the old
laminate. This will give the glue for the new laminate a rough surface to
adhere to. Do your edges first and use a router or a file to remove the
excess material. Then belt sand the edges smooth the the tabletop, making
sure that you have the belt sander going against the laminate so you will
not chip it. Once the edges are done put your glue on both tabletop and
laminate and let it dry a few moments. Lay some long strips on cardboard or
some 1 x 2's on the tabletop and position your laminate. Once you have it
positioned where you want it you can remove the cardboard or
1 X 2" one at a time. Roll the laminate with a roller and route the edges
and then file them to take the sharp edges off.
This may sound like hard work but it's really not.
George
'66 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:38:47 -0500
From: John Anderson <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Table laminate surface renewal
Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate (Formica?)
on
the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see paying
$300
++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate? Chemicals?
Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,
without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
John Anderson
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 07:20:32 -0700
From: Jerry Sulkin <sulkin@xxxxxxxxxx.chemeketa.edu>
Subject: Bowen water heater
I have been restoring my 71 Safari for the last year and it's almost ready
for the road. Yesterday I decided to fully test the water heater. It has
been full and under pressure many times and I have fired the burner to make
sure it worked but never let it burn long enough to fully heat the water.
After burning for about five minutes, the water just starting to get warm, I
saw water trickling out of the main burner tube. Of coarse, I shut the
heater down right away. Is this normal condensation or do I have a major
problem?
Jerry Sulkin
Facilities Project Manager
Chemeketa Community
Phone: 503-399-2591
Fax: 503-399-2595
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 07:59:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: edging strip for flooring
The home improvement stores sell a plastic foam that
is coated to look like wood (plus some solid colors).
I know it sounds cheesy, but from a normal distance,
it looks fine. I put it in the house (to finish a
vinyl "wood" floor) and get favorable comments about
the "wood" floor all the time.
It is very lightweight, inexpensive, flexible, and can
be glued in place (use masking tape to hold it while
the glue dries).
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:03:53 -0400
From: jamesecraigjr@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: water pump and pressure regulator
Anyone have any thoughts on the following:
1974 ILY now hooked up and filled to camp. Water pump runs but fails to maintain sufficient pressure to bath or run the kitchen sink.
Is this the pressure switch? or an old and tired pump issue?
Tank is full to the top...
Also, how does one remove the red tint from antifreeze filled lines?
Thanks for the help.
Jamie Craig
Jamesecraigjr@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:26:35 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: water pump and pressure regulator
Jamie. Sounds like the pump needs to be rebuilt. Rebuild kits are available.
Make and model number must be given.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:38:48 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
John, that's a project I haven't undertaken yet so I can't tell you what
works and what doesn't. I can tell you what I am going to do when I get to
that project, however. Since the original faded laminate is well adhered to
the table top, I'm going to cut a piece of laminate the same dimension as
the present table top and attach it over the existing material with contact
cement. I don't think an additional 1/16" on top of what's there will be a
problem at all.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 19:38
Subject: [VAC] Table laminate surface renewal
> Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate
(Formica?) on
> the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign. The original woodgrain is still
visible,
> but quite faded and discolored. I do not think it is a stain of any kind;
just
> sun exposure mostly. After checking with shops in my area that build
countertops,
> I am resolved to make this a do-it-myself project. (I just cannot see
paying $300
> ++ to resurface this little fold-down table). So, if anyone has tackled
this
> project, my questions are: how best to remove the old laminate?
Chemicals?
> Prying? Sanding? Or, is it possible the old surface can be restored by
polishing,
> without obliterating the (fake) wood grain? Any advice will be much
appreciated!
>
> John Anderson
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:44:35 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: loor repair
Chris
I assume your floor is rotted in the rear bath. I do not believe that you
can push a new piece in from the outside.
Whether you use a complete 4x8 or a partial, you'll have to do it from the
inside, and in sections as you cannot get a full width sheet into the rear
channel and both side channels at the same time. The last section needs to
be fit perfectly, wedged in and banged on (stressing the channel somewhat).
Plan each section to fit the edges half-way over the frame members in order
to get a firm floor.
I hope I never start a flooring project again, once was enough.
Phil
Guilford CT
63 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:57:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
Have a good fire extinguisher handy. Lacquer thinner tends to be very
flammable, and heat guns often use motors with brushes that spark to
ignite the thinner fumes. Don't use the two together.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:39:56 -0400
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Suggested Camping Along Route 66 corridor
Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for camping while traveling along the Route 66 corridor? Going to try and travel it next year and would appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jason Jablonski
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:45:52 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Deadbolt FUD?
I called Airstream's service department to ask if they could put a deadbolt
in my '77 Sovereign.
I talked to the Service Manager, Rick March. He said they didn't install
them. The reason is because drilling the hole in the frame to accommodate
the deadbolt bolt would weaken the frame, and it would eventually crack.
Anyone have any comments on this?
Assuming I decide to install it anyway...
I know that the bolt has to be cut to fit in the trailer's frame. I dont
have a problem doing this. What REALLY scares me is drilling the holes in
the door, only to find that it's in the wrong location. Does anyone have
SPECIFIC measurements on where the deadbolt is supposed to go?
Any recommendations on what brand of deadbolt to use?
Dave
P.S. - For those of you who arent in Sales, FUD means "Fear, Uncertainty
and Doubt" :-)
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:19:53 -0700
From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: Shock Replacement Part Number
Folks:
I know this question has been raised a number of times and I checked the
VAC archives, but I can't seem to find the Monroe, or Napa part number. I
have '62 GT that needs new shocks, can anyone tell me the correct
replacement part number.
Many thanks,
David
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:00:28 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: A compendium of shock posts from the past two years.
Opinions do vary. And the shock applications do vary.
Gerald J.
=========================
Subject:
Re: [VAC] Shocks?
Date:
Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:15:45 -0700 (PDT)
From:
M M <alumtrailer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Reply-To:
vintage@xxxxxxxxxx.airstream.net
To:
vintage@xxxxxxxxxx.net
--- Jim Stewart <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> My '61 Bambi sits up in the front when hooked up
> even though the ball
> height is less than the called for 16 1/2". Could
> this be weak shocks?
> If so does anyone know what type of shocks would
> work on it? Also what
> are the consequences of running a trailer with old
> shocks? More sway?
> Thanks
> '61 Bambi
>
I have the same problem with my Bambi. The really
crusty shocks I took out of my 62 Bambi were Delco
3166784. The shocks I put in were NAPA Regal Ride gas
charged 20718. The trailer rides maybe 1 1/2 inches
higher ( that is the gas charge). On the street side
the cantilever type stud mounts had 7/8" nuts. The
curb side had the regular 5/8" nuts. I replaced the
nuts with stainless steel lock nuts so the next guy
has an easy go with it. I hope to remove the radial
tires soon and replace them with the original 6.00 x13
bias ply to gain another inch or so of height.
Subject:
[VAC] Re: Shocks
Date:
Tue, 14 Nov 2000 21:27:33 -0800
From:
RJ & Krista <radiodial@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Reply-To:
VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
To:
Multiple recipients of VACList
<VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
After much searching by the local dealer, we found that NAPA p/n 94005
(Monroe) shocks fit our '65 Caravel. They came without the upper metal
bushing insert, so they fit perfectly. Sure made a difference in th
towing & bounce.
RJ
'65 Caravel
Subject:
[VAC] Re: CHARLES DOSWELL
SHOCKS?????????????????
Date:
Tue, 23 Jan 2001 17:32:38 -0600
From:
"Harvey Barlow" <harveybarlow@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Reply-To:
VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
To:
Multiple recipients of VACList
<VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Charles,
I have two suggestions.
One, go to your nearest Airstream dealer and surrender the deed to your
home
or..........
Two, go to your nearest NAPA auto parts dealer and ask for a pair of new
NAPA gas
deluxe shocks, part
number 94005 at about $18 per.
If you don't have NAPA dealers in your area, just go to your local auto
parts store and
ask for a pair of front shocks for a mid to late '60s - early '70s Chevy
1/2 ton pickup.
This is all based on the assumption that Caravels had shocks similar to
my '66 Safari 22'
trailer. I'll bet they are the same.
Harvey
Subject:
[VAC] Airstream Shocks
Date:
Sat, 09 Mar 2002 06:51:33 -0800
From:
Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Reply-To:
VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
To:
Multiple recipients of VACList
<VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
There seems to have been a lot of confusion this last week on shocks. I
got
quite a few offline e-mails from people going "huh"?
I checked into the matter for clarification from a few reliable
resources.
Through the '40's, '50's & '60's Airstream used conventional auto/truck
shocks on its vintage single axle trailers, both leaf spring &
Dura-Torque.
With the big body style change in 1969, Airstream changed to a
horizontal
mounted (trailing arm) shock absorber configuration. I have also seen
it
on
some later '60's dual axles.
Attached is picture of what it looks like. Digest viewers can see it
at:
http://vintageairstream.com/ebay/shock.jpg
What makes the new shock special is:
"The shock used in the horizontal mount is a specialty shock built for
Airstream by Gabriel. The difference is a bladder is used to hold the
oil on
the piston. The typical design of shocks would allow the oil to pool
away
from the piston leading to premature failure." (thanks Charlie)
This shock is the one you need to get from Airstream dealers. While a
conventional shock can be made to fit, you can see it may eventually
fail.
All this concurs with my experience, and I will add this info to the FAQ
section of the VAC website.
Later,
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:16:30 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
The neatest installation for a deadbolt I've seen (Robert Rasmussen's
'68 Caravel) put the works in the wall, and just made the hole in the
door frame the size of the bolt. There's not room in to door in my
Caravel to hold a dead bolt and keep the screen without doing major
surgery to the screen to make room for the deadbolt sticking through the
screen. Like the current swinging latch access door. I've snared a
couple of Robert's pictures.
The lock of the dead bolt is about a lock diameter below and half a lock
diameter to the right of the bottom of the big access handle. A really
great idea. Robert says when he took the Airstream to a dealer right
after acquiring it in 2000, every person in the dealership had to
inspect that lock location. I wish I had more detailed pictures, and I'd
be doing it to my Caravel which has a hasp on the outside that is very
ugly, prone to rusting and has been known to swing closed and lock the
occupant inside.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:55:34 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <mprice@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: water pump and pressure regulator
James,
My 72 Trade Wind had problems getting water to the rear sink and the
kitchen pressure was low and spluttered and gurgled along. Also, the
pump never built up enough pressure to automatically shut off when the
faucet was closed.
I'm not sure of the price for the rebuild kit but I bit the bullet and
bought a new shureflo pump. This gets up to pressure in seconds and
gives a smooth flow to both sinks, it is also a lot quieter in operation
than the original PAR pump. You can get it online here
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/12voltpotable.html for $67, I bought mine
from a local RV dealer, it was a little more expensive but I was in the
store anyway. The 'o' ring on the original filter is also a place to
look for air leaks. They get dry and perished over time. You can get a
filter designed for the shurflo for another $10.
Fitting was simple, no more than 10 minutes. It was money well spent in
my opinion. As a side effect I now have a running, but not very well PAR
pump if anyone wants it for the price of shipping.
>1974 ILY now hooked up and filled to camp. Water pump runs but fails
to maintain sufficient pressure to bath or run the
>kitchen sink.
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 13:44:51 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: floor repair
Chris asked:
> My question is , would I be better off structurally to replace back to the
> first
> seam ( 4' ) or just replace the bad place and use a butt block underneath and
> epoxy some glass over seam on top . If I do the whole 4 ' sheet , can I push
> it
> in thru the outside ,after removing the trim strip and belly pan ?.
I just finished doing the front of ours and decided to take it to the first
seam. I think this allows the new floor to contribute to the structural
strength since it can be tied directly to the cross members of the frame.
After I pulled out the old floor (save for a pattern) I put spacers under
the body at the frame and cross members to prevent any sag. I would
recommend this as there did seem to be a tendency for the shell to settle.
Although I did mine from the inside with a seam down the middle on the
center steel I would think you could push the entire piece in from the
outside once the trim and belly are off.
Incidently I was also disappointed in the way the old floor was pulled down
to meet the irregular positioning of the cross pieces of the frame. I cut
treated shims to level this out in the area I replaced. I also sealed the
edges of the new wood with penetrating epoxy and painted them. My rot was a
result of water following the tongue structure through to the floor so I
sealed that area very carefully inside and out with vulcem.
Good Luck!
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:14:24 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Dave. If you do mount a dead bolt, it's not a matter of what will happen,
it's when. You will damage the door frame, by simply slamming it shut.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
Here's the final scoop for the archives and anyone
interested. I completed my overhaul of the original
Peters and Russell model 6800 pump in my 68
Overlander.
The unit was obviously in need of an overhaul because
it would not hold back pressure or pump water forward.
There were no leaks that I am aware of.
I got the parts from Depco pump company (800 446 1656
depco.com). My contact was Jim at extension 222. He
was very helpful.
The parts were being sold for a Jabsco model 6800J.
It is important to note that this is NOT an identical
model. It seems to be one generation removed from my
original. However, many key parts are the same.
I used a valve set (part 30004-0000 price $15.11) and
a new diaphragm (part 30015-0000 price $9.82). As a
gee-whiz, I bought an accumulator to keep the pump
from cycling on and off. I thought this was a good
idea since we never installed a pump without an
accumulator when I installed water wells.
I also purchased a light action, high-pressure check
valve from a separate supplier (Lowe's) to protect the
pump. Don't buy one that takes a lot of pressure just
to open it, or you'll waste precious battery power.
Be sure to install the new pump valves with the same
orientation as the old ones. I recommend removing
ONLY ONE old valve at a time. Note that they face in
OPPOSITE directions.
I found a little silicone oil to be very helpful when
seating the new valves. They're tough to get in
position otherwise, especially the one where the dome
is up. Remember that the body is plastic, so don't
overtighten the bolts when you put it back together.
The diaphram should be secured with the small screws
during reassembly to ensure alignment. Also, be sure
the clamps from the push rod are aligned, too.
It's a good pump and seems to work very nicely now. I
think the $25 and change was quite a deal compared to
an outright replacement. Most of my time was spent
finding parts and putzing with the tight fit and the
alignment. Hopefully this will save someone else the
hassle.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
Happy wife
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:28:45 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Dave, I believe it's Daisy who has complete instructions and pictures on
her web site for mounting a deadbolt (which I think is a good addition).
Unless I'm mistaken, deadbolts come as standard equipment on later model
trailers so I assume there's some other reason the Factory doesn't want to
do them. I believe the preferred way is to install the lock mechanism in the
door frame and the bolt is cut down (thinned) and goes in a hole drilled in
the edge of the door. I'll eventually install a deadbolt in my Tradewind as
extra security and to prevent the door from blowing open when traveling. As
to the brand of deadbolt to buy, I'm going to use the same brand as is
installed on my house entrance doors and have the deadbolt keyed like the
other locks so there's one less key to keep up with.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 12:45
Subject: [VAC] Deadbolt FUD?
> I called Airstream's service department to ask if they could put a
deadbolt
> in my '77 Sovereign.
>
> I talked to the Service Manager, Rick March. He said they didn't install
> them. The reason is because drilling the hole in the frame to accommodate
> the deadbolt bolt would weaken the frame, and it would eventually crack.
>
> Anyone have any comments on this?
>
> Assuming I decide to install it anyway...
>
> I know that the bolt has to be cut to fit in the trailer's frame. I dont
> have a problem doing this. What REALLY scares me is drilling the holes in
> the door, only to find that it's in the wrong location. Does anyone have
> SPECIFIC measurements on where the deadbolt is supposed to go?
>
> Any recommendations on what brand of deadbolt to use?
>
> Dave
>
> P.S. - For those of you who arent in Sales, FUD means "Fear, Uncertainty
> and Doubt" :-)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 16:36:56 -0600
From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Table laminate surface renewal
on 6/23/02 5:38 PM, John Anderson at janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Well, I am ready to do something about the faded plastic laminate (Formica?)
> on
> the dining table in my 1966 Sovereign.
Easy to do laminate yourself- no removal necessary. old surface is excellent
for this. Buy your replacement, cut to size if possible, plus some contact
cement, & dowels. lightly sand old surface, then apply cement (brush/roller)
to both surfaces, allow to dry separately. Lay dowels down, spaced , then
new laminate. Remove dowels one-by one and carefully monitor position, as it
is a one-shot deal. Edges can be trimmed with a laminate trimmer/router, or
filed in downward direction.
This procedure is often on home do-it-yourself shows, Or look in books. Last
time I cut my piece with a carbide blade on a table saw, slightly larger,
then filed after it was adhered. Take into consideration edging removal
beforehand if any, etc, then replace after.
>
Good luck with your project,
Jere Potter
Fort Collins, CO
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 19:02:30 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
Andy, if the door frame is so fragile, why isn't the door frame broken at
the cut out in the frame for the regular door lock striker and bolt by
slamming the door. What's the difference? Incidentally, I close my door -- I
don't slam it which will break the lock internals eventually.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 17:14
Subject: [VAC] Re: Deadbolt FUD?
> Dave. If you do mount a dead bolt, it's not a matter of what will happen,
> it's when. You will damage the door frame, by simply slamming it shut.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 19:09:08 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
Thanks, Jon, for the information on the P&R water pump rebuild. I'm sure
it's just a matter of time until I'll need a rebuild on mine. What does the
light action high pressure check valve do and where is it installed in the
system?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
P.S. What's the happy wife secret?
----- Original Message -----
From: "jon fitz" <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 17:17
Subject: [VAC] PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
> Here's the final scoop for the archives and anyone
> interested. I completed my overhaul of the original
> Peters and Russell model 6800 pump in my 68
> Overlander.
>
> The unit was obviously in need of an overhaul because
> it would not hold back pressure or pump water forward.
> There were no leaks that I am aware of.
>
> I got the parts from Depco pump company (800 446 1656
> depco.com). My contact was Jim at extension 222. He
> was very helpful.
>
> The parts were being sold for a Jabsco model 6800J.
> It is important to note that this is NOT an identical
> model. It seems to be one generation removed from my
> original. However, many key parts are the same.
>
> I used a valve set (part 30004-0000 price $15.11) and
> a new diaphragm (part 30015-0000 price $9.82). As a
> gee-whiz, I bought an accumulator to keep the pump
> from cycling on and off. I thought this was a good
> idea since we never installed a pump without an
> accumulator when I installed water wells.
>
> I also purchased a light action, high-pressure check
> valve from a separate supplier (Lowe's) to protect the
> pump. Don't buy one that takes a lot of pressure just
> to open it, or you'll waste precious battery power.
>
> Be sure to install the new pump valves with the same
> orientation as the old ones. I recommend removing
> ONLY ONE old valve at a time. Note that they face in
> OPPOSITE directions.
>
> I found a little silicone oil to be very helpful when
> seating the new valves. They're tough to get in
> position otherwise, especially the one where the dome
> is up. Remember that the body is plastic, so don't
> overtighten the bolts when you put it back together.
>
> The diaphram should be secured with the small screws
> during reassembly to ensure alignment. Also, be sure
> the clamps from the push rod are aligned, too.
>
> It's a good pump and seems to work very nicely now. I
> think the $25 and change was quite a deal compared to
> an outright replacement. Most of my time was spent
> finding parts and putzing with the tight fit and the
> alignment. Hopefully this will save someone else the
> hassle.
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
> Happy wife
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:31:54 -0600
From: "Airstream" <airstream@insideout-design.net>
Subject: Re: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
> P.S. What's the happy wife secret?
That's easy...hot running water in the AS!
Shari :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 5:09 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: PAR pump overhaul for 68 model
> Thanks, Jon, for the information on the P&R water pump rebuild. I'm sure
> it's just a matter of time until I'll need a rebuild on mine. What does
the
> light action high pressure check valve do and where is it installed in the
> system?
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> P.S. What's the happy wife secret?
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #344
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text