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VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Thursday, June 20, 2002      Issue 340
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: Air Conditioner Question
        2. Re: where does the fridge exhaust go?
        3. Trailer for sale - mid 60's Safari?
        4. trailer for sale part 2
        5. Rim Question
        6. Re: Rim Question
        7. Magnatec Converter
        8. Re: Magnatec Converter




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Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:42:43 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Question

Marvin,
  You've received some good advice: check the voltage IN THE TRAILER, 
and check the current draw of the A/C. As Gerald said, some breakers 
will get a bit more sensitive when they get old and/or have tripped a 
few too many times. However, there's one more thing to check:

You'll need to pull the outer cover over the unit to check the condensor 
coils. That's the radiator-looking thing that's usually at the rear of 
the roof-mounted assembly. It's quite common for the condensor to get 
plugged up, and even a partially-clogged one will cause high head 
pressure in the compressor, causing high current draw, leading to 
tripping breakers or (much worse!) a burned out compressor.

                         <<Jim>>

Marvin Murray wrote:

> Hi-
> 
> I've just about completed restoration of my 76 Tradewind 25' and have 
> encountered an air conditioning problem. It still has the original 
> Armstrong unit which seems to work fine, except: after running for an 
> hour or so, it trips the circuit breaker on the panel in the rear 
> bathroom closet. If I reset the breaker, it runs fine again. Any ideas? 
> If  I have to replace the unit, what brand/model would you recommend? 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated as its 100+ degrees here in Las 
> Vegas:)
> 
> Marvin Murray
> mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>



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Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:43:47 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: where does the fridge exhaust go?

Jon,
  Go to http://www.rvmobile.com and look in their 'tech' section for 
details on fridge chimneys. It sounds like you're getting inadaquet 
airflow for some reason.

                          <<Jim>>

jon fitz wrote:

> This is undoubtedly a dumb question, but I want to be
> sure I'm not ignorant of some hidden knowledge about
> RV fridges.
> 
> Long story short, I discovered that the exhaust pipe
> for the gas section of my fridge ends about 8 inches
> lower than the bottom of the fiberglass "chimney". 
> This allows combustion gases to circulate under the
> counter before exiting the coach.
> 
> Is this normal?  I can tell you that the condensate
> doesn't do much good for the countertop.  It seems to
> me that the pipe should extend at least as high as the
> start of the fiberglass chimney.  My guess is that the
> replacement fridge was not installed correctly.  
> 
> If anyone knows the answer, or can check an original
> installation (remove the little disk in the counter
> top over the fridge and look down) I would appreciate
> it.  Thanks!
> 
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>  
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>



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Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 21:32:03 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Trailer for sale - mid 60's Safari?

Found this classified ad ...I'm tempted but 1 is all I can justify. Looks
like a good deal for somebody.
http://www.canadatrader.com/trader/result/affich.asp?sid=24UGPUC7528732&rubn
o=4300&pa=5&pr=2

TEXT FROM AD: OLDER AIRSTREAM 20' HOLIDAY TRAILER, bathroom, hot water,
furnace, pulls beautifully, $3,200 obo. Ph (403) 887-4627, Sylvan Lake, AB.

This is CDN $, about $2000 U.S.
Sylvan Lake is 100 miles north of Calgary

Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html






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Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 21:41:42 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: trailer for sale part 2

The link in the previous post does not seem to work. Go to
www.Canadatrader.com  select RV section and search Airstream in Alberta.

Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html




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Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 00:13:37 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Rim Question

I'm sure this has been discussed several times in the past, but as a newbie
I have to ask...

I'm trying to find new rims to replace my split rims and local sources have
suggested the standard white "spoke" patterned trailer rims.  I'd prefer to
have a plain rim that I could find a nice baby moon for and to maintain the
original appearance.

Are there any automotive rims that match the 6 hole 5.5" split rims with the
correct hub size, etc...?

What other options are available?

What have some of the VAC members used?

Your help is definitely appreciated.

Regards,

Shawn Clarry
'63 Safari



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Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 07:53:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Rim Question

Try stores with a large selection of rims. I'm not sure the common white
spoke patterned trailer rims will have the correct offset which is
critical for Airstreams. The wheel wells fit the tires closely. Another
critical item is the load capacity of the wheel. Automotive wheels can
be weak for the Airstream load.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


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Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:26:26 -0500
From: "Dana Kelley" <jckelley@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Magnatec Converter

We recently bought a new Dometic Fridge.  We were told to leave plugged in
all time. It will turn over to gas if elect inturrepted and it also requires
12 volt to run.  I have a Magnatec converter which says if plugged in to
make sure not to operate without battery.(I check the battery water level at
least once a month.)  The converter instructions says there is another type
of "dummy" battery you can buy if you keep plugged in all the time. I've
lost my booklet that came with the converter, so now I don't know the name
of the special type of battery to ask for.
Besides my fridge requires 12 volt so this dummy battery probable won't work
for that. Does anyone have phone # for Magnatec?

My questions are:
1) Does everyone keep plugged in all the time?
2) Will it over chg my battery?
3) Is it necessary to keep the fridge plugged in all the time?
4) Also we've been hit several times in the past by lightning, has anyone
ever had trailer hit by lightning?  If so the damage could be terrific
couldn't it? I'm probably a little paranoid about this because it's been so
costly in the past.
Thanks
DSK in TEXAS






------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 17:49:32 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Magnatec Converter

Dana Kelley wrote:

>We recently bought a new Dometic Fridge.  We were told to leave plugged in
>all time. It will turn over to gas if elect inturrepted and it also requires
>12 volt to run.  I have a Magnatec converter which says if plugged in to
>make sure not to operate without battery.(I check the battery water level at
>least once a month.)  The converter instructions says there is another type
>of "dummy" battery you can buy if you keep plugged in all the time. I've
>lost my booklet that came with the converter, so now I don't know the name
>of the special type of battery to ask for.
>Besides my fridge requires 12 volt so this dummy battery probable won't work
>for that. Does anyone have phone # for Magnatec?

	Magnetek is now called Parallax- http://www.parallaxpower.com/
but.. there are a couple of things you could do. 
	First- I agree with the running the refrigerator all the time-
but some people do not.

>
>My questions are:
>1) Does everyone keep plugged in all the time?

	I do.

>2) Will it over chg my battery?

	Yes- but the dummy battery is a 50,000 mfd, 15 volt capacitor,
which filters and provides the proper load for the converter to work-
the capacitor or the dummy battery can be found at
http://www.brwholesale.com . You would disconnect the battery, hook up
the dummy battery, and stay plugged in. An alternative is to buy a
plug in timer- plug the converter in to it, and set it to come on for
a couple of hours a day- this is the cheapest solution, and will work
just fine.

>3) Is it necessary to keep the fridge plugged in all the time?

	I like to.

>4) Also we've been hit several times in the past by lightning, has anyone
>ever had trailer hit by lightning?  If so the damage could be terrific
>couldn't it? I'm probably a little paranoid about this because it's been so
>costly in the past.

	This is probably the biggest reason *not* to stay plugged in,
though we have a bunch of lightning around here (Florida)- and so far
nothing in the trailer has been hurt (I did loose a bunch of phones a
while back, though).
	I would get a cheap plug in surge protector- the kind they
sell for microwave ovens, and plug the refrigerator in to that- at the
minimum.

-- 
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com


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End of VACList-Digest  #340
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