The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, June 11, 2002 Issue 331
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Recommended Reading
2. Re: Replacement Rims
3. Re: Replacement Rims
4. Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
5. Re: coating the roof.
6. European Bambi II owner needs help
7. Re: coating the roof.
8. Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
9. Re: Replacement Rims and Tires
10. Air conditioner removal
11. Re: PAR pump priming
12. Re: Replacement Rims and Tires
13. Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
14. Re: Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
15. Re: Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
16. Re: Air conditioner removal
17. Re: Replacement Rims
18. Re: Replacement Rims
19. Replacement Rims - sheesh.
20. Re: Replacement Rims
21. Re: Replacement Rims
22. Re: Replacement Rims
23. Re: Replacement Rims
24. Re: Replacement Rims
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 21:06:18 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Recommended Reading
Shawn,
You might have missed my advice to the folks from the Netherlands:
Get a copy of Bob Livingston's "RV Maintenance & Repair", it'll go a
long way towards your understanding of the various systems in all RVs.
It goes into quite a bit of detail, troubleshooting tips, etc. on things
like water pumps, refrigerators, both 120 VAC and 12 VDC electrical
components, etc. Nearly all of these components are used by ALL RV
manufacturers, only the basic body of the units are propietary.
<<Jim>>
Shawn Clarry wrote:
> Hello all!
>
> As a newbie to both Airstreams and trailers in general, is there a good
> beginner's book to help me to become familiar with the systems that I need
> to know about?
>
> I keep reading this list and seeing things about black water, grey water,
> blue (Tidy Bowl) water (just kidding) and having never owned a trailer I
> think I'd benefit from a basic RV maintenance book.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Shawn Clarry
> '66 Safari
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 21:11:00 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Bob,
If you'll take a peek at
http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/airstream/may27_06.jpg
you'll see what a split rim looks like. Although this is on my forklift,
they look the same on an A/S. You can tell a split rim from 20 feet away.
Split rims can be very dangerous for the tire installer, but aren't that
bad once the tire is mounted and inflated. If the tire was FLAT and you
inflated it w/o knowing what you're doing, you could be in some danger
also. Because of the dangers, it's becoming hard to find someone who
will work on split rims, so most folks replace them, even at the expense
of originality. (I have very recently seen at least one trailer with
split rims still installed, however)
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> I looked up the wheel specifications for our 66 Safaris in the owner's
> manual. It says they are 15" Drop Center. Is that the same as split rims?
> In any event I had tires replaced two years ago in Oregon and nobody at Les
> Schwaab's made a peep about split rims. Are we sure that split rims are
> what we have? If so, does it pose the same dangers as 60 Minutes outlined
> several years ago.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
> From: "Shawn Clarry" <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
>>My '66 Safari has the original 6 bolt split rims and I want to replace
>>
> them.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:06:08 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Bob,
> If you'll take a peek at
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/airstream/may27_06.jpg
> you'll see what a split rim looks like.
Hey Jim,
My rims don't look anything like that. They look like normal automotive
rims w/ 6 lugs. Next time I get near a digital camera I'll take a shot.
I'm still not clear on what the Airstream Manual meant by "Drop Center
rims".
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:25:10 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
John,
The most common cause of the condition you describe is an air leak between
the tank and the pump. Normally the PAR pump can draw several feet. That
screen filter you mention is the prime offender for this problem. The
original design with a center screw tended to crack.
Charlie
John Leggett wrote:
> Hi folks,
> We got the new polyethylene fresh water tank installed
> and gave the PAR/Jabsco water pump our first test.
> The pump runs fine, but we got no flow! There's a
> clear inline filter between the tank and pump, but I
> don't see any flow.
>
> Is there anything you have to do to prime this kind of
> diaphram pump? It behaves like we've got air trapped
> in the line. The tank's about half full so I would
> think we've got plenty of head for this pump.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari
> WBCCI #1154
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
> http://launch.yahoo.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:57:31 -0700
From: Tuna <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: coating the roof.
1) Check out some of the caravan photos in Burkhardt and Hunt's "History of
the Land Yacht"... a significant number of those trailers had white-painted
roofs...
2) No idea - something that bonds well to aluminum, obviously.
3) I sure hope so... going to be polishing the Trailwind one of these
years...
and, if you can -
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
Tuna
'48 Trailwind
'49 FrankenJeepster
Reno, NV
WBCCI/VAC 8862
----- Original Message -----
From: "BILL DEERING" <bdeeringok@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 1904 11:18 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: coating the roof.
> I am about half way finished with polishing my 71 Safari (Nuvite and cyclo
> polisher) and have a question regarding the roof. As we all know a good
> portion of the roof is not visible except from elevation. I have seen one
> polished trailer with the roof coated with white RV roofing paint. This
is
> not exactly consistant with the "restored" concept of a trailer but then I
> didn't buy the trailer to keep it completely original but rather to use
it.
> On the other hand I don't want to do anything to lessen my chances of a
> reasonable price when I sell. My questions is these.
>
> 1. Is painting the roof considered an absolute No No?
> 2. anyone have a recommendation for a paint that will not run and
> streak the sides of the trailer?
> 3. Will my shoulders ever recover from these hours of polishing?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bill
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:25:12 -0700
From: "Alec Fisken" <afisken@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: European Bambi II owner needs help
I think the VAC website (airstream.net) has the address for Secretarial
Services, which can provide a copy of the manual if one existed (for maybe
$30 or so). You could join as a "friend of the VAC" for $10, and have access
to the member archives: there's a 65 Caravel Manual there and it is probably
quite similar to the Bambi II. It helped a lot when I was working on my 66
Caravel. Have fun with the restoration!
Kathy Fisken, Seattle WA
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:26:17 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: coating the roof.
Alumagrip aircraft paint. Or Imron . Follow their instructions exactly, whatever you
use.
BILL DEERING wrote:
> 2. anyone have a recommendation for a paint that will not run and
> streak the sides of the trailer?
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 09:00:15 +0000
From: mani <mani@xxxxxxxxxx.nl>
Subject: Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
Hi Peter and Michaja,
I will be glad to be of any help with your Bambi. From what year is your trailer?
The last 6 months I have been working on my Safari 1966 and I learned a lot I can
share with you.
It is nice to get in contact with people with same interests, missing parts and
questions over the VAC-list. But in our case we can do it a lot easier, because
-comparatively- I live around the corner! Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Dus we
kunnen het ook zo doen! As far as I know there is another Bambi in Amsterdam in the
Rooseveltlaan
BTW, all VAC-list members thank you for all the information that came from you.
Keep in contact!
Victor Mani
Safari 1966
0031 10 4125330
mani@xxxxxxxxxx.nl
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 07:15:14 -0400
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims and Tires
I'm curious, is a Chevy truck 6 bolt on 5.5" pattern a normal trailer wheel size and what about running radial tires on the older rims? I've been told that it's not safe to run radials on even older, non-split, rims.
Thanks,
Jason
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:36:12 -0300
From: "Sean Doran" <bighorndoran@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Air conditioner removal
When I remove the unsightly A/C unit from the top of my trailer , how big
will the opening in the roof be? What is the the best way to seal it ? Is
there some kind of skylight available . I'm hoping to install a solar panel
in ths spot. Is this the best location? Also can someone post the address
of the Airstream Trailer link library
Thanks
Sean Doran
'73 Trade Wind
St.John's , NF
Canada
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 07:43:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: PAR pump priming
I am in the process of overhauling my original PAR
(Peters and Russell) pump. I will be posting details
as soon as it is successfully completed.
I started this project based on a simple test that I
did BEFORE putting city water pressure to the pump.
Disconnect the pump from the system. Hook a 5/8" ID
hose to the discharge. Blow into it. Does air flow?
If so, you need new valves (or they have junk in
them). This is hardly surprising for a 68 model, but
I don't remember how old yours is.
I would do this test on an old pump even if it is
working, just to be sure that it works as efficiently
as possible. Chances are that bad valves will be
discovered the hard way if not tested. City water
will eventually fill your fresh water tank by flowing
backwards through the pump.
The good news is that new valves can be had for about
15 bucks and a little elbow grease. Give me a day or
two and I will post the particulars. I haven't
actually tested mine yet, because I'm making mods to
install an accumulator. I'd hate to give out parts
info only to discover that my parts didn't work! ;)
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 09:03:38 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims and Tires
There are a multitude of details that must be considered for trailer
wheels.
First the bolt circle must fit.
Then the center opening.
Then the diameter and rim width.
Then the offset.
Then the load rating.
Then the suitability for the selected tire.
Many older car and truck rims are deficient in load rating and quality
of construction. There was a change of rim construction to make them
airtight for tubeless tires. Rims that flex under load will eventually
fracture, and tend to wear tire beads unreasonably.
Airstreams are notorious for snug fitting wheel wells and a slip in
diameter or width or offset can prevent the replacement wheel/tire
assembly from being useful. Practically every VAC owner who has gone
after tires without the trailer in hand has returned to the tire store
with assemblies that won't fit the trailer even though the marked tire
size is supposedly and exact replacement of the original tire size. And
that's without changing rims. Changing rims and tires at the same time
without fitting them to the trailer wheel well is fraught with failure.
One can measure offset of the original rims along with the other details
and sometimes get a leg up on the complexity of the process.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:21:36 -0700
From: Marvin Murray <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
I'm planning to take my '76 Tradewind 25' to Sedona, Arizona next Monday
and I'm wondering if any VAC members could reccommend a campsite,
preferably in Oak Creek Canyon. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Marvin Murray
mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:54:06 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
Due to the extreme fire danger, all campsites in Oak Creek Canyon are
closed. No one is allowed to enter the canyon except residents and hotel
guests.
It is _very_ hot and dry here this year.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 09:10:08 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <canerods@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona
Marvin and all interested parties,
The Oak Creek Canyon area is closed to all outside visitors due to extremely
dry conditions until further notice. This includes all persons with the
exception of homeowners. This restriction is a first for the Oak Creek
Canyon area. The whole state of Arizona is suffering from lack of rainfall.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC
> I'm planning to take my '76 Tradewind 25' to Sedona, Arizona next Monday
> and I'm wondering if any VAC members could reccommend a campsite,
> preferably in Oak Creek Canyon. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
> Marvin Murray
> mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:03:39 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Air conditioner removal
Sean wrote:
> When I remove the unsightly A/C unit from the top of my trailer , how big
> will the opening in the roof be?
OK Since the most experienced voices have not yet responded, the blind will
attempt to lead the blind. Like yourself I am preparing to remove my A/C.
I've had the benefit of getting several professionals to bid the job and I
tapped their brain. There will be a 14" x 14" hole of the standard size for
a vent or Fantastic Fan. When you say you want to put solar panels "in this
spot" you preclude using a vent which will increase your interior and
exterior finishing. I'm going with the Fantastic Vent.
I am planning to install solar panels but definitely not the rigid kind. I
already know that they are the most efficient but I don't want a rigid flat
panel on top of my coach. I have chosen Uni-Solar flexible mats (panels).
They are designed to follow the curve of the coach and can be fastened with
grommets that are built into the mat. I estimate that I can put three 32
watt panels overhead, one aft and two forward of the newly installed
Fantastic Vent. I understand and accept that I will never get all of the
curved panel to see the sun but there will always be a percentage charging.
My lifestyle is such that I am conservative in my use of electricity.
Someone else should know the Airstream library link. Good luck.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:54:17 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Bob,
Gerald Johnson described a drop center rim quite well, I thought. It's
just what he said: the center of the wheel is "lower" (much smaller
diameter) than the part where the bead seats.
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> From: "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
>>Bob,
>> If you'll take a peek at
>>http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/airstream/may27_06.jpg
>>you'll see what a split rim looks like.
>>
>
> Hey Jim,
> My rims don't look anything like that. They look like normal automotive
> rims w/ 6 lugs. Next time I get near a digital camera I'll take a shot.
> I'm still not clear on what the Airstream Manual meant by "Drop Center
> rims".
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 14:53:28 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Replacement Rims
> Bob,
> Gerald Johnson described a drop center rim quite well, I thought. It's
> just what he said: the center of the wheel is "lower" (much smaller
> diameter) than the part where the bead seats.
So if I'm interpreting this correctly, you can't see whether you have a drop
center rim while a tire is on the rim. Yes? But you can easily see a split
rim, because the split is visible on the outside of the rim. Yes?
The question remains why does my Airstream 66 Safari come with Drop Rims and
Shawn's 66 Safari has split rims? Am I missing something?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:17:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Replacement Rims - sheesh.
I think everyone is making this harder than it really
is.
here's what you do. You open the yellow pages and
look for a trailer supply shop in your area. you take
the wheel off, and you take it down to the trailer
supply shop in your area. they look at it, they tell
you what the new one will cost, you buy it, drive it
home, and install it.
the details - tell them that one rim needs to handle
2200-2800 pounds (if you've got a single axle) and
whammy you're done.
This is EXACTLY what I did. (I guess I called around
first) and I ended up at the supplier to many of the
local tire shops (Tires Plus etc) that had no idea
what I was talking about. walked in with a wheel,
walked out with three brand new ones with tires and
hubcaps for right around $100.
ba-da-bing, ba-da-boom.
Toby
p.s. whoever it was that posted the picture of a split
rim - that's not how mine looked either. It had a
"ring" around it - if bobb is still on this list, he
knows what I'm talking about and he can explain it
better.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:34:29 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
> Bob,
> Gerald Johnson described a drop center rim quite well, I thought. It's
> just what he said: the center of the wheel is "lower" (much smaller
> diameter) than the part where the bead seats.
>
> <<Jim>>
Hi Y'all:
This from
http://edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/46431/article.html
The two basic parts of a wheel are the "spider," or the centersection that
bolts to the vehicle's brake drum or rotor, and the rim -- the outer lips
that contact and contain the tire beads. On most wheels, the spider is a
separate piece that is welded, riveted or bolted to the rim. Some custom
wheels are cast in one piece or machined out of a single piece of solid
billet-aluminum stock.
Passenger cars and light trucks use a "drop-center" wheel design, where the
center of the wheel is of a smaller diameter than the edges. Such a
configuration simplifies tire installation and removal. With a deflated
tire, it allows one bead to fall easily into the "dropped" centersection,
while the opposite bead is mechanically fitted over one of the rims. Most
modern wheels add a safety ridge, which are small lips that keep the tire on
the rim in the event of a flat or a blowout.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:59:53 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Further to this topic, I found the following about split rims (lotsa pics):
http://www.omnicast.net/users/rdjo/splitrimtireremoval.htm
And for the anglophiles out there:
http://www.acme-outfitters.com/library/split_rim_tyre_repair.html
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:13:04 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Yes you can SEE or feel if you have a drop center rim except maybe on a
cast and turned rim. On any normal steel rim, there will be the bead
retaining flange, then a diameter two metal thickness smaller in
diameter than the tire bead (typically 15"), then an inch or so towards
the center of the rim the metal will curve inward to the drop center
with diameter about 1.5" smaller than the bead diameter. This is true
whether looking from the outside or the inside of the rim, with or
without tire mounted.
Since the bead of a tire will not stretch (steel cable reinforced) it is
not possible to mount a tire on a one piece rim without a drop center,
hence there are no one piece rims without a drop center. A two or three
piece rim generally doesn't have the drop center because its a
manufacturing complication that's of no benefit to the user.
Most often the spider is welded to the drop center part of the rim
because that uses less metal, though my '98 F-150 rims are not built
that way.
Up through the early 70s when split rims started coming apart
spontaneously, split rims were considered heavier duty (at least all
truck rims from 3/4 ton pickups to semis) and all that were available
for the heavy duty rim service. Its interesting though that farm tractor
rims have almost as universally been drop center rims. Today, because of
the perceived hazards of split rims, all big trucks now run drop center
rims. The split rim is most dangerous when first being inflated it the
pieces haven't been perfectly assembled or are worn they can hold until
nearly tire beading pressure is reached and then shoot off rim pieces
with enough velocity to remove any human appendages in their way (e.g.
heads, arms, or legs). They are supposed to be inflated remotely while
in a cage to catch the flying pieces.
So why did one '66 had split rims and another have drop rims? Either the
one with drop rims were replaced long ago or the Airstream factory or
dealer allowed either as options considering the split rim to be the
stronger rim of the two.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:17:30 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Bob,
Drop rims are needed when mounting tubeless tires, because of the wire ring
in the bead. Without the drop, you'd never get the tire mounted on the rim.
I doubt that you'd easily find rims without the drop nowadays.
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Replacement Rims
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Replacement Rims
>
>
> > Bob,
> > Gerald Johnson described a drop center rim quite well, I thought. It's
> > just what he said: the center of the wheel is "lower" (much smaller
> > diameter) than the part where the bead seats.
>
> So if I'm interpreting this correctly, you can't see whether you have a
drop
> center rim while a tire is on the rim. Yes? But you can easily see a
split
> rim, because the split is visible on the outside of the rim. Yes?
>
> The question remains why does my Airstream 66 Safari come with Drop Rims
and
> Shawn's 66 Safari has split rims? Am I missing something?
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:20:28 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Gary Quamen wrote:
>
> Further to this topic, I found the following about split rims (lotsa pics):
>
> http://www.omnicast.net/users/rdjo/splitrimtireremoval.htm
That's the easiest type of split rim to work on, there are several
others less friendly. The most common look about like this one but with
a ring that does not have the split and the parts don't interchange
safely), and there was one with a locking ring inside the bead retaining
ring, and then there are a few designs that come apart at mid rim, not
just the bead retaining ring. All of those are harder to change. I have
some of about three different kinds on my '65 F350 dually.
>
> And for the anglophiles out there:
>
> http://www.acme-outfitters.com/library/split_rim_tyre_repair.html
>
> GQ '67 Safari
>
>
>
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #331
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text