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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, June 10, 2002 Issue 330
Today's Topics:
1. sewer hose mount under stream
2. Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
3. 1969 Dometic refridgerator
4. Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
5. Re: Cross Country Airstream Shipper
6. Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
7. PAR Pumping but no flow
8. Sewer hose mount under stream
9. Black tank styrofoam
10. Re: 1969 Dometic refridgerator
11. 87 GMC Suburban 6.2L diesel
12. Re: 1969 Dometic refridgerator
13. Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
14. please advise on clearcoating small areas
15. Re: Advice please - Flags
16. European Bambi II owner needs help
17. Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
18. Replacement Rims
19. Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
20. Re: Black tank styrofoam
21. Re: Replacement Rims
22. Re: please advise on clearcoating small areas
23. Re: Replacement Rims
24. Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
25. Re: Replacement Rims
26. Re: Replacement Rims
27. Recommended Reading
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 20:37:20 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: sewer hose mount under stream
Huff wrote:
>
> Well, I got no replies about modernizing utility connections... let's try
> Black
> Water Tube Storage.
> Someone on this list posted about placing a PVC pipe, probably 4"?, BENEATH
> his
> Stream. He capped the ends so he could store his Black Water Tubing there. I
> note
> such a tube in CampWorld.
> Has anyone here done this? If so, mount the tube in front of the wheels? On
> what?
I can tell you what not to do. Our Bambi came with an old galvanized sewer
tube mounted just to the street side of the A-frame running straight back to
the axle. It looked like it was there for a long time but further
investigation showed that someone had attached it with pipe strap and sheet
metal screws directly to the belly. Of course it pulled the belly loose
across the bottom of the trailer. If you do this be sure to follow Terry's
advice and attach securely through the belly to the frame. I would like to
ask Terry if the hose clamps on his tubes are attached to the frame with one
adaptor each and if that is sufficient to keep them from swaying.
By the way I think I also missed you question about modernizing utility
connections.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:36:29 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
I saw this posting some weeks ago, and am of the opinion that this is
typical government knee-jerk reaction.
Not that the systems aren't good......I have the SmarTire devices installed
on my trailer and they work pretty well.
BUT......
It's not a "plug and play" system. The user has to input some parameters,
specifically normal required tire pressure, the point at which the alarm
should sound, temperature correlation, tire locations, and "alert" and
"alarm" levels.
I suppose these could be done at the manufacturers, and as long as the user:
1. Never changed tire sizes/load ranges.
2. Always check to see the tires were properly inflated.
3. Never rotated tires without re-inputting some parameters.
4. Remembered that morning cold pressures are often less than the afternoon
pressures, and can set off the alarms.
It might work. I had little problems for almost 18 months, and then the
receiver/display unit died and I had to have it replaced. Then I had to
input all the parameters. Then I discovered that you don't do that as the
instructions say, but in another, very specific, order. (Maybe they have
rewritten the manual).
Then I discovered that low levels of RF can screw the whole thing up. I had
ham radio rigs in the truck, and they messed up the programming of the
system. Not good.
If our Government thinks the average driver is going to handle something
that requires that level of attention, then they are really out of touch.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:01:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: robert brandt <rdbrandt_1930@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 1969 Dometic refridgerator
Any ideas for the following problem: The freezer door
on our 1969 Dometic refridgerator came off during a
recent jaunt. One of the end mounts on the door broke
where it had been previously mended. It is now
repaired and the question is how to reinstall it. On
each side is a spring loaded plunger with a raised x
that engages a similar recess in the door fitting.
The spring loaded plunger has to be pushed in and
rotated at the same time so it will torque the freezer
door shut. Have not been able to figure out how this
is done. I am going to call Dometic Customer service
and see what they say. I have a thought to drill a
small hole in the holder and into the plunger and put
an assembly pin in, install the door and pull the pin.
My doubt is: will the plunger rotate to neutral
before it plunges outward to make connection with the
door fittings? If any of you have had this problem
you know what I am talking about.
Thanks,
Carole and Rob
69 Caravel
San Diego
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 20:28:49 -0700
From: Tuna <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
http://monitortire.com/
shows the cheap solution that may or may not satisfy proposed 'tire
monitoring systems' requirements... they come in 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 50, and
60 psi sets... i figure that relying upon a 'false negative' reading would
defeat the purpose with a vengeance... but as a 'prompt' for me to check
tire pressures with a good gauge, it can't be bad...
Roger - where did you find the correct 'very specific' programming order for
the SmarTire system? I was planning on installing it in the
FrankenJeepster/Trailwind rig...
tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 7:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
>snip
>
> It might work. I had little problems for almost 18 months, and then the
> receiver/display unit died and I had to have it replaced. Then I had to
> input all the parameters. Then I discovered that you don't do that as the
> instructions say, but in another, very specific, order. (Maybe they have
> rewritten the manual).
>
> Then I discovered that low levels of RF can screw the whole thing up. I
had
> ham radio rigs in the truck, and they messed up the programming of the
> system. Not good.
>
> If our Government thinks the average driver is going to handle something
> that requires that level of attention, then they are really out of touch.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower, N7KT
> WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
> 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
> Mesa, AZ
> mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 22:56:45 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Cross Country Airstream Shipper
Scott,
I sent this forward to my dad. He lives in southern CA and drove here to AL
and back to deliver my 76 that I sold to an actor in CA last Nov. He might
be interested in delivering it to you. Let me know offline if you want to
talk to him and I will give you his number. He would most likely do it
cheaper than a commercial company but you would have to discuss the details
with him.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Anthony <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 10:02 PM
Subject: [VAC] Cross Country Airstream Shipper
> Hi all,
>
> Scott Anthony and Rebecca Turner here...we're just
> getting going with a '57 Caravanner.
>
> http://www.airstreamtrailers.com/57/
>
> It's pretty dented on the outside, but we're in love
> with the layout. The current patina actually works to
> our advantage, as we're right outside of NYC and
> something polished and shiny would attract attention.
>
> Right now it's parked at Oasis RV in Tucson, AZ. Jay
> has helped us get a few things sorted out with it. We
> got the hot tip that he was "the man" after lurking
> here for a few weeks.
>
> Does anyone know of a reliable shipper to drive the
> trailer from Tucson to New Jersey? We have a fellow
> lined up, but he seems a little overwhelmed at the
> moment, and we'd feel more comfortable having a backup
> plan.
>
> Cheers,
> S&R
> '57 Caravanner
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:22:54 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressure Monitor
Tuna:
After I couldn't get the programming to take, I was given a Xeroxed sheet by
the installer that gave me the order of input. It specifically said not to
use the order listed in the manual or they parameters wouldn't take.
I don't have it with me tonight, but can get it and send it if you want.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 22:23:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: PAR Pumping but no flow
Hi folks,
We got the new polyethylene fresh water tank installed
and gave the PAR/Jabsco water pump our first test.
The pump runs fine, but we got no flow! There's a
clear inline filter between the tank and pump, but I
don't see any flow.
Is there anything you have to do to prime this kind of
diaphram pump? It behaves like we've got air trapped
in the line. The tank's about half full so I would
think we've got plenty of head for this pump.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
John Leggett
1968 Safari
WBCCI #1154
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 01:36:26 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Sewer hose mount under stream
on 06/09/02 9:37 PM, dkparins@ez-net.com wrote:
> If you do this be sure to follow Terry's advice and attach securely through
> the belly to the frame. I would like to ask Terry if the hose clamps on his
> tubes are attached to the frame with one adaptor each and if that is
> sufficient to keep them from swaying.
Hi Dick,
Each hose clamp housing is attached in two places on each of the two frame
rails which run from the front to the rear of the trailer. The hose clamp
housing provides an "undenyably" secure base for holding the actual hose
clamps flush and tight up against the underbelly. For all practical
purposes, they are an integral part of the underbelly and provide support
for the underbelly that wasn't there originally.
As for sway, it's non-existent. Any attempt to move a tube by hand is like
trying to move the entire trailer. Of course, a driveway ditch with rocks in
it can have an impact - namely - shatter the tube, but the hose clamp
housings (and the hose clamps) won't budge.
Take your time finding the hose clamp housing (my words - hardware store
probably uses different words to describe it). I used the kind with a place
for one screw on each of the outside ends, while the center was shaped
somewhat like a belt loop into which the hose clamp was threaded (not really
threaded but that's the general idea). When I saw these adapters, the lights
went on and "ahh haa" set in.
While I was in the hardware store, I went over to the tool section and
bought both the drill bit, the thread maker (my words), the turning tool (my
words) and the bolts that I slid into the hose clamp housing holes before
screwing them into the frame.
Later,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 05:55:42 -0400
From: "Osowski, D. B. (David)" <dosowski@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Black tank styrofoam
Has anyone had to replace the stryofoam that the black tank sits on?
It has a contoured shape on one side and recessed circular pockets
on the other. I'll probably have to have one made up but I don't know
where to start looking.
--
Dave Osowski
'66 Overlander
Brighton,Mi
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:27:44 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1969 Dometic refridgerator
robert brandt wrote:
>Any ideas for the following problem: The freezer door
>on our 1969 Dometic refridgerator came off during a
>recent jaunt. One of the end mounts on the door broke
>where it had been previously mended. It is now
>repaired and the question is how to reinstall it. On
>each side is a spring loaded plunger with a raised x
>that engages a similar recess in the door fitting.
>The spring loaded plunger has to be pushed in and
>rotated at the same time so it will torque the freezer
>door shut.
On both sides you need to pull the spring carrier out a bit (this is
the part that is recessed in to the side of the refrigerator)- rotate
them so they are pointing down, put the door back on, then rotate them
back to the original position- this will tension them.
I tired to put an attachment to this message, but it bounced-
I was unaware that attachments are no longer allowed (it's under 5K)-
anyway, give me a minute and it will be at
http://bryantrv.com/images/freezehinge.jpg
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:42:14 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 87 GMC Suburban 6.2L diesel
on 06/09/02 9:52 PM, brownhyde@primelink1.net wrote:
> Hi Terry, I've been lurking on the VAC newsgroup for about a year.<snip> I
> just noticed that you are towing with an 87 6.2 liter Diesel Suburban. <snip>
> The vehicle I'm looking at has only 22,000 miles on it and no rust. We
> haven't purchased it yet so I'm curious to know your experiences with this
> vehicle and approximate fuel mileage.
>
Hi Colin,
Keep in mind that I'm finicky about my tow vehicles and have no hesitation
about throwing money at them when I'm the least bit dissatisfied with any
part of their performance. All mechanical work on my 1/2 ton Suburban is
done by a widely regarded local diesel mechanic who has a depth of
experience for getting maximum performance from a diesel engine vehicle, as
well as for maintaining a high level of readiness to tow our Airstream
anywhere on the continent at a moment's notice. Although he is not my
personal mechanic who works solely at my beckon call, he is close to it.
Having said that, I like this Suburban for more reasons than the mechanical
aspects. If any vehicle can provide the "rock solid" feel that GMC touts in
their ads, this vehicle does it - in spades. It's a fun truck to drive solo,
it's very predictable and stable, it's good looking, there's no rust
anywhere, it has no rattles or drafts, everything works as designed, it has
a very comfortable ride (even when towing while tire PSI is at 42 rear/32
front), it has all the bells and whistles of a well equipped Suburban and
best of all, it has the factory trailer towing package.
I tow only in D, never in overdrive. I had a 180 degree thermostat installed
in the cooling system. I've had the unusually large radiator common among
diesel engines replaced (last week). The biggest transmission oil cooler
that will fit was immediately installed back in 1987 when the truck was
brand new.
The previous two owners were friends so I knew some history of the vehicle.
When the last owner died, his wife encouraged us to buy it and the Airstream
that went with it. We shined up to that offer (priced right, too) and bought
it. I took over the diesel owners club subscription that had been in place
since the first owner joined, read all the back issues since 1987 and have
used the free consultation service several times.
As for fuel mileage towing, it's never been higher than 14 nor lower than
10. That's in contrast to our Van (300,000 miles) with a 460 CID and factory
trailer towing package where towing mpg has never been higher than 10 nor
lower than 7.
As for fuel mileage solo, it's never been higher than 21 nor lower than 16.
That's in contrast to our Van where solo mpg has never been higher than 14
nor lower than 10.
>> Also how does it tow in the mountains? The Ambassador weighs 3700 lbs dry and
>> the Sovereign weighs in at 3900.
>>
Colin, you are now getting in the meat and potatoes of this truck. It is
unquestionably a powerful tow vehicle so long as the speed is not above 45
mile per hour. Our '67 22' Safari is probably somewhat lighter weight than
either your Ambassador or Sovereign. After 45 mph, if I press hard on the
accelerator or down shift the transmission manually, the only thing that
occurs is the engine makes more noise; it doesn't go any faster nor does it
accelerate even slightly.
- Do I run the hills on the Interstates? You bet I do, all the time.
- Do I go faster than the speed limits? Not hardly. I couldn't even if I
wanted to unless of course, I was going down hill.
- Do I ever pass anyone? I can't recall the last time that occurred, but I'm
sure it must have been at least once (probably a heavily laden 18 wheeler
taking 3 miles getting up to speed while I could get up to speed in 2 1/2
miles).
- Does it bother me that I can't keep up with traffic inspite of towing a
smaller trailer? No, but I am sensitive to getting out of the way when
traffic piles up behind me for longer than a few minutes.
- Do I feel comfortable towing with this Suburban? Absolutely, if for no
other reason than I know it will get the job done and not complain. Tortoise
and the Hare syndrome applies here.
- Does it perform any differently at really high altitudes (9,000 feet)? No,
altitude seems not to be a significant factor. That's in sharp contrast to
our gas tow vehicles where every1,000 feet of increasing altitude causes a
decay in performance regardless of whether towing or driving solo.
- Does the vehicle need service more often than our gas engine vehicles? No,
probably less often. But, when it needs it, the cost is more. I suspect it
evens out.
- Is diesel engine service as readily available as gas engine service? No,
there aren't as many garages which provide diesel service.
- How do I find diesel service locations? I ask at fuel stops which sell
diesel fuel, at auto parts stores or the local Stanadyne Dealer who provides
a commonly used fuel conditioner for diesel fuel.
- Do I use a fuel conditioner to avoid algae growing in the fuel tank? Yes,
with every refill. This is one additional task I do after refilling the fuel
tank. It's part of my routine of checking the oil level in both the engine
and power steering resevoirs. The transmission oil level is checked last
after I've started the engine and while the hood is still up.
- Is the refueling procedure the same as it is with gasoline? No, I use
disposable gloves while handling the pump. More than half the fuel pumps
have droplets of diesel fuel on the handle. I also choose where I'll stand
while holding the pump and refueling. Diesel fuel on my shoes rubs off on
the carpet inside my truck and the stink lasts for weeks.
How's that for a quick and easy reply right off the top of my head? Unless
both you and your significant other are enthusiastic about a diesel engine
truck and all it entails, I'd proceed cautiously. My wife is thoroughly
enamoured with the comfortable ride, the excellent sound system, the
powerful air conditioner, the truck's good looks and the fact that she can
get into it and out of it with greater ease than our 3/4 ton Van.
Those features are more important for her than the fact that our Suburban
has a noisy, diesel engine. We have a son who flies F-15s that are really,
really noisy. For both of us, the roar of F-15s is the sound of freedom.
We've parked at the end of runways on USAF bases all over the continent to
watch take offs and landings - with not a care in the world about the noise.
It's probably a stretch in realistic logic, but for us, the diesel engine's
noise symbolizes confident certainty that we'll get where we're going
regardless of the terrain, the altitude, the outside temperature and just
about any other factor associated with an engine's performance.
Enough chit chat,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:50:23 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1969 Dometic refridgerator
I wrote:
>
>On both sides you need to pull the spring carrier out a bit (this is
>the part that is recessed in to the side of the refrigerator)
An addendum- the carriers are held in by small ears (which
also lock them from rotating)- you have to push the top of it back
toward the freezer a fraction of an inch before it will slide out.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:18:57 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
John,
The PAR pump should prime by itself, but:
Open a faucet someplace while trying to get it to prime. This will let
the air out and allow the pump to work against 'no' backpressure. I
usually start the [dry] pump, then open a faucet to see if there's a
little squirt of air pressure. Close it for a bit and repeat. As long as
I hear that air escaping, I know the pump is working. It usually
requires just a couple of minutes for water to start flowing at the
cold water faucets, but quite a bit longer for the water heater to fill.
I then open all faucets in turn to make sure that all the air is
expelled from the system.
Do check to see if you have a bypass valve that might be left open. And,
you daren't have even the slightest leak on the suction side of the pump
or it won't prime or will prime very slowly.
<<Jim>>
John Leggett wrote:
> Hi folks,
> We got the new polyethylene fresh water tank installed
> and gave the PAR/Jabsco water pump our first test.
> The pump runs fine, but we got no flow! There's a
> clear inline filter between the tank and pump, but I
> don't see any flow.
>
> Is there anything you have to do to prime this kind of
> diaphram pump? It behaves like we've got air trapped
> in the line. The tank's about half full so I would
> think we've got plenty of head for this pump.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari
> WBCCI #1154
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
> http://launch.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:42:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: please advise on clearcoating small areas
My wife left a metal chair leaning against the AS on
our last trip. This turned out to be good. The small
spot where the chair rubbed actually got MORE shiny!
It seems that what I assumed was oxidation is actually
just hazy clear coat.
I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good material
for doing a new clear coat. I would also like to do
this in small sections at a time. I'm thinking I
could remove a small section of the old clear coat and
then immediately reapply something else. This would
let me do it in little bits as time allows (I have
little kids around the house).
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:06:22 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Advice please - Flags
The VAC flag is available here:
http://www.airstream.org/contacts.html (bottom of the page)
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nicholas.sowter@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:nicholas.sowter@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 2:19 PM
> To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAC] Advice please - Travels, Flags, Fuel and Caravans
>
> Also I have seen flagstaffs placed at the rear or front of
> Airstreams and would like to get two or three of these - the
> stars and stripes, the union jack, and an Airstream flag.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:48:07 +0100
From: "P.C.Wever" <p.c.wever@xxxxxxxxxx.uva.nl>
Subject: European Bambi II owner needs help
Hello Airstream owners,
Please let us introduce ourselves. We are Peter and Michaja from
Amsterdam, The Netherlands, Europe. Some years ago, during a
holiday in the US, we fell in love with the Airstream trailers. This
eventually resulted in me hiring an Airstream trailer for our wedding
night some 2 years ago. And now, we are in the process of buying
a 1964 Bambi II trailer that was imported here in 2000 and since
then mainly served as decoration in an oldtimer showroom.
This Bambi II is in desperate need of restoration which we gladly
like to undertake. Airstream information is however scarce if not
absent here in The Netherlands. It would help us already if we could
get hold of a copy of a Bambi II owners manual (if existing). Is there
anybody who can help us? Expenses will off course be paid fo. Is
there any other crucial info we should know about this particular
model.
Thanks,
Peter and Michaja
Amsterdam
The Netherlands
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:42:39 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: PAR Pumping but no flow
John, I just "renewed" the in line water filter in my ' 68 Tradewind. It was
full of sand and perhaps was a source of a small leak. The filter is made in
two pieces which fit together and are sealed with a 2 1/4 inch "O" ring.
The "O" ring had dried out (after 34 years). Fortunately these filters can
be renewed because I'm told they no longer are available.
I would suggest checking the setting on your cross over valve. It has to be
closed for the demand water system to work.
Where did you get your new water tank?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Leggett" <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 1:23
Subject: [VAC] PAR Pumping but no flow
> Hi folks,
> We got the new polyethylene fresh water tank installed
> and gave the PAR/Jabsco water pump our first test.
> The pump runs fine, but we got no flow! There's a
> clear inline filter between the tank and pump, but I
> don't see any flow.
>
> Is there anything you have to do to prime this kind of
> diaphram pump? It behaves like we've got air trapped
> in the line. The tank's about half full so I would
> think we've got plenty of head for this pump.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari
> WBCCI #1154
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:00:22 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Replacement Rims
My '66 Safari has the original 6 bolt split rims and I want to replace them.
Do any of the auto maker's rims fit the bolt pattern or are new rims only
available through RV dealers?
I'd like to maintain the original look with the baby moons.
Shawn Clarry
'66 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:09:02 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
Peter,
Although not A/S specific, you should have a copy of Bob Livingston's
"RV Maintenance & Repair". It covers all the systems that are used in
most RVs in some detail. Everyone should have a copy on their bookshelf.
<<Jim>>
P.C.Wever wrote:
> Hello Airstream owners,
>
> Please let us introduce ourselves. We are Peter and Michaja from
> Amsterdam, The Netherlands, Europe. Some years ago, during a
> holiday in the US, we fell in love with the Airstream trailers. This
> eventually resulted in me hiring an Airstream trailer for our wedding
> night some 2 years ago. And now, we are in the process of buying
> a 1964 Bambi II trailer that was imported here in 2000 and since
> then mainly served as decoration in an oldtimer showroom.
>
> This Bambi II is in desperate need of restoration which we gladly
> like to undertake. Airstream information is however scarce if not
> absent here in The Netherlands. It would help us already if we could
> get hold of a copy of a Bambi II owners manual (if existing). Is there
> anybody who can help us? Expenses will off course be paid fo. Is
> there any other crucial info we should know about this particular
> model.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter and Michaja
> Amsterdam
> The Netherlands
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:01:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Black tank styrofoam
Foam it in place with a can of polyfoam or packing foam, but I'd bet on
the canned foam lasting longer, just don't get it on your clothes or
skin. They will wear out long before it wears off.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:33:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
I looked up the wheel specifications for our 66 Safaris in the owner's
manual. It says they are 15" Drop Center. Is that the same as split rims?
In any event I had tires replaced two years ago in Oregon and nobody at Les
Schwaab's made a peep about split rims. Are we sure that split rims are
what we have? If so, does it pose the same dangers as 60 Minutes outlined
several years ago.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
From: "Shawn Clarry" <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> My '66 Safari has the original 6 bolt split rims and I want to replace
them.
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:29:20 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: please advise on clearcoating small areas
Jon, the common wisdom seems to be that clear coating is not a do it
yourself project. Maybe that's because you will be the first one to try it.
I suppose an Airstream owner with experience and the right facilities and
equipment could do it. Hopefully, it wouldn't come out looking like a paint
job applied with a brush. It's my understanding that most of the owner
polished Airstreams are not clear coated after polishing. I could be wrong.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "jon fitz" <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:42
Subject: [VAC] please advise on clearcoating small areas
> My wife left a metal chair leaning against the AS on
> our last trip. This turned out to be good. The small
> spot where the chair rubbed actually got MORE shiny!
> It seems that what I assumed was oxidation is actually
> just hazy clear coat.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good material
> for doing a new clear coat. I would also like to do
> this in small sections at a time. I'm thinking I
> could remove a small section of the old clear coat and
> then immediately reapply something else. This would
> let me do it in little bits as time allows (I have
> little kids around the house).
>
> Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 11:40:39 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Drop center are generally not split rims. You should be able to see the
pieces of the split rim just looking at them. Their tire rims should be
nearly straight from bead where the drop center rims have to dip towards
the hub to allow the tire bead to move into the drop center to be pulled
over the edge of the rim. Tire beads are reinforced with steel and do
NOT stretch.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:46:54 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: European Bambi II owner needs help
Dear Peter and Michaja,
Your post took me back a few years to my bicycle tour across Europe. I
fell in love with & in Amsterdam. Married a girl that I met there. That's
off topic:)
You've definitely arrived in the right place for Vintage AS information.
You can get a lot of sources for items here on the list. You can look them
up as easily as we can on the WWW. So you need to find a reliable dealer
who can obtain those parts for you that cannot be shipped directly to you.
I used to live on Harlemmerstradt over a laundry owned by a Sikh. Just down
the street, near the Grand Station was a restorer who worked on RV's. You
might want to check and see if they are still doing rebuilds and whether
they would be helpful with your Bambi. I'm sure someone on the list will
come forward with a lead toward your manual, but a lot of restoration info
is common to most pre-1970 models.
Keep in touch,
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
From: "P.C.Wever" <p.c.wever@xxxxxxxxxx.uva.nl>
> And now, we are in the process of buying
> a 1964 Bambi II trailer that was imported here in 2000 and since
> then mainly served as decoration in an oldtimer showroom.
>
> This Bambi II is in desperate need of restoration which we gladly
> like to undertake. Airstream information is however scarce if not
> absent here in The Netherlands. It would help us already if we could
> get hold of a copy of a Bambi II owners manual (if existing). Is there
> anybody who can help us?
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 11:35:56 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
Dexter makes direct replacements - and cost only $36 each. Be sure to
order the black ones. Matching baby moons are available too ($12).
More info:
http://www.dexteraxle.com
http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/brakes/brakes.html
Not sure if the 15" wheels found on the Henschen Dura-torque axles are
the same as the old leaf-spring axle hubs, but I think it was
determined earlier that was the case. All the Tire, Machine, Wheel &
Utility Trailer places found in almost every town can order from
Dexter, so that would be the first place to start.
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud (ex-split rims)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 10:00 AM
> To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAC] Replacement Rims
>
> My '66 Safari has the original 6 bolt split rims and I want
> to replace them.
>
> Do any of the auto maker's rims fit the bolt pattern or are
> new rims only
> available through RV dealers?
> I'd like to maintain the original look with the baby moons.
> Shawn Clarry
> '66 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:40:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement Rims
a couple other places:
http://www.championtrailers.com/
and the place I got mine (less than $100 for 3 rims, 3
tires, and 3 baby moons)
http://www.pioneerwheel.com
Toby
--- RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Dexter makes direct replacements - and cost only $36
> each. Be sure to
> order the black ones. Matching baby moons are
> available too ($12).
> More info:
> http://www.dexteraxle.com
> http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/brakes/brakes.html
>
> Not sure if the 15" wheels found on the Henschen
> Dura-torque axles are
> the same as the old leaf-spring axle hubs, but I
> think it was
> determined earlier that was the case. All the Tire,
> Machine, Wheel &
> Utility Trailer places found in almost every town
> can order from
> Dexter, so that would be the first place to start.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> '65 Caravel
> '57 Flying Cloud (ex-split rims)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 10:00 AM
> > To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> > Subject: [VAC] Replacement Rims
> >
> > My '66 Safari has the original 6 bolt split rims
> and I want
> > to replace them.
> >
> > Do any of the auto maker's rims fit the bolt
> pattern or are
> > new rims only
> > available through RV dealers?
> > I'd like to maintain the original look with the
> baby moons.
> > Shawn Clarry
> > '66 Safari
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:23:59 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Recommended Reading
Hello all!
As a newbie to both Airstreams and trailers in general, is there a good
beginner's book to help me to become familiar with the systems that I need
to know about?
I keep reading this list and seeing things about black water, grey water,
blue (Tidy Bowl) water (just kidding) and having never owned a trailer I
think I'd benefit from a basic RV maintenance book.
Thanks again!
Shawn Clarry
'66 Safari
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #330
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