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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, June 7, 2002 Issue 327
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Wheel bearing grease caps
2. Re: Battery ventilation
3. Re: To Walbernize or not?
4. [No Subject]
5. TCT
6. Re: Free/Cheap Camping Sites
7. Re: To Walbernize or not?
8. Axles
9. Re: Battery ventilation
10. Re: Axles
11. Re: Water System
12. Re: Grease Cap - serendipity
13. Re: To Walbernize or not?
14. Precision Temp Installation
15. Re: axles
16. Re: hydrogen hazards
17. Re: Axles
18. Re: Axles
19. Re: axles
20. Location of bypass valve..
21. Re: Free/Cheap Camping Sites
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:16:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <gregpaulsen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bearing grease caps
Anybody else ever needs one, I have a couple in the
back of my bottom toolbox drawer, both 10" and 12"
screw on.
Greg Paulsen
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
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------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:28:42 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation
Rik,
I'm coming into the discussion a bit late, as I just re-up'ed to the
List yesterday evening. However, I have an observation:
Our 1973 Avion has 2, Group 24 batteries under the front couch, sitting
in a plastic box that has a loose-fitting cover. Cell ventilation is
provided by special caps that cover 3 cells/each. The caps press into
the cell openings just like the originals, but they have a nipple that
has a short hose connected to a series of 'Tee' fittings, culminating in
a hose that goes through the bottom of the battery box, then out through
the bellypan. The box itself also has a molded-in drain line that exits
through the bellypan; the vent hose goes through that.
This is the OEM setup and appears to be "OK" in my book. The caps are
probably not perfectly sealed to the batteries, but I'd bet that most of
the dangerous fumes go overboard.
My batteries only get equalized occassionaly, just when I plug in to
shore power for a while. I normally depend on only the solar panels for
charging.
Speaking of shore power: as you might remember, we have an Inteli-Power
converter/charger w/ Charge Wizard. This past w/e, I had occassion to
connect to shore power overnight and watched the eMeter for a while. The
voltage was set at 14.4 at first, with the charge rate starting at 20
amps and rather quickly tapering off, dropping to about 2 amps after a
few hours. The voltage then switched to 13.6, with the charge rate going
to .1 or .2 amps. As you know, the I-P will drop to 13.2 volts after 24
hours of electrical inactivity, jumping to 14.4 for 15 minutes every 23
hours. This performs an automatic equalization and "stirs" the electrolyte.
I add water maybe every 6 months or so.
<<Jim>>
Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:
> If your solar system has a charge controller, and you are not equalizing the
> batteries, not a whole lot of hydrogen is generated. But you should equalize
> them regularly, and during the equalization they generate a lot of hydrogen. You
> can get a rough idea how much by how often you need to top up the water
> (although this also is a function of temperature). For any enclosed system using
> conventional lead-acid batteries, Hydro-Caps are a great investment. They
> catalytically re-combine the hydrogen and oxygen, which prevents the escape of
> free hydrogen and also drastically reduces the necessity to top up the cells
> with distilled water.
>
> Personally, I think a quarter-inch hose is 'way too small for adequate
> ventilation, particularly without Hydro-Caps.
>
> OR you can use an AGM battery... which is definitely NOT the same as a gel-cell.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:24:49 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: To Walbernize or not?
Hi Kathy,
Walbernize is a pretty amazing concoction. I haven't used it on the
trailer outside yet, but i used it on the sink, the vinyl wood walls. It
has a bit of fine abrasive in it and a very good wax. Shiny shiny
everywhere. I'll bet it will make my '73 look great. I would be careful
about using other cleaners on the clear coat, it's very expensive to
replace. I for one don't want to polish 29' of trailer every year !
Daisy
Alec Fisken wrote:
>
> My '72 Globetrotter has most of the clearcoat left, and what I've read here
> about removing clearcoat has convinced me that I don't have time to remove
> it this year. Is there anyone out there who recommends "Walbernize" as an
> important step in cleaning the trailer? It's more expensive than cleaners I
> already have around the house, but it's billed as doing something special
> for Airstreams. Also, there's conflicting info about when it should be
> used - I've seen references to "not recommended for trailers with
> Plasticoat". I have the impression that my '72's "clearcoat" is not the same
> as Plasticoat. So is it a good product to use? (I apologize for not being
> able to get a clear answer from searching the archives! I know this has been
> discussed before, but I couldn't find this precise question.)
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:35:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Pillar <raypillar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [No Subject]
Hi Terry,
I used GOOP marine contact adhesive and sealer. It
looks like clear bathtub caulk but has the consistency
of hard rubber. In other words it tuff but should
withstand any flexing of the tank. I also used it to
hang the rear window of my 66 Safari. Someone had
attempted to replace the window using bathtub caulk.
The first time I opened the window it nearly fell
out. I cleaned out the channel and filled it with the
GOOP adhesive, replaced the window and closed it.
After it sat for a day I opened the window and gave it
a good pull, nearly hung from it. I was really
impressed how well it gripped the glass. I just hope
I don’t have to replace it. I purchased the GOOP
adhesive at Ace hardware.
Ray Pillar
WBCCI 6514
66 Safari
Hi Ray
What did you seal your leaks with? Just curious what
you found to bond
with
the tank.
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Pillar" <raypillar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Greetings,
> I have been rebuilding a 66 Safari and am now ready
to
> work on the black tank. The tank itself had some
leaks
> around the top which I sealed and now I would like
to
> rebuild the valve or replace it. Is there a standard
> replacement for this valve? Is there a rebuild kit
> available?
> Thanks
> Ray Pillar
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:42:28 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: TCT
If any of you aren't getting enough "rallying" by attending Vintage
Airstream rallies, etc., you might want to consider joining the Tin Can
Tourists. It's only $15.00/year, and we have several rallies, the
greater share of which seem to be about 50% or more Vintage AirStreams.
(see http://www.tincantourists.com)
The most recent rally was at the Shelburn Museum at Shelburn, Vermont,
and was put together by Steve Hingtgen of AirStream Dreams.
(http:airstreamdreams.com) We actually camped at the North Beach
Campground in Burlington, VT, right on Lake Champlaign, then caravanned
to the museum, where 'we' were part of the "touring America" display. A
great time was had by all; kudos go to Forrest Bone and Steve Hingtgen
for their hard work.
A number of Listees were in attendance and can vouch for the wonderful
time we all had.
<<Jim>>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:52:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Free/Cheap Camping Sites
Dave,
Just a friendly observation. The angelfire.com link that you referred
to shoots a bunch of cookies at your computer with advertisements. Every
link is coded so that it is referenced to the original source and (could
also be used to trigger junk mail.) I have seen many of the sites that
were linked on that page and know they are legitimate. Here is a copy of
the links referred on that page with no cookie triggers.
> http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/boondocking YAHOO CLUB ON
>BOONDOCKING -Places
> http://www.phrannie.org/boondock.html PHRED TINSETH'S BOONDOCKING
> INFORMATION
> http://www.FreeCampgrounds.com FREE CAMPGROUNDS
> http://www.geocities.com/desert_dutch FREE CAMPGROUNDS IN SOUTHERN
> CALIFORNIA
> http://www.telusplanet.net/public/waters BOONDOCKING GUIDE
> http://www.movinon.net/Driver/number7.htm RESPONSIBLE BOONDOCKING
> http://movinon.net/Guest/boondocking.htm THOUGHTS ON BOONDOCKING IN
>ARIZONA DESERT
> http://www.rversonline.org/ConfBoon.html ABC'S OF BOONDOCKING
> http://www.rv-coach.com/rv/galey3.html OVERNIGHT STOPPING SPACES
> http://www.freecampgrounds.com/unofficial.html "UNOFFICIAL" STOPPING
PLACES
> http://www.syix.com/fletcher/Adventure/qapanoramamov.html A PANORAMIC VIEW
> OF TYSON WASH LTVA IN QUARTZSITE ARIZONA
> http://www.rvclub.com THE RV CLUB
> http://www.Escapees.com THE ESCAPEES RV CLUB w/ Boondocking BOF group
> http://www.rv-overnighters.com/ RV OVERNIGHTERS
> http://www.fulltiming-america.com/rvdump/index.html PUBLIC
> http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/boondocking YAHOO CLUB ON BOONDOCKING
> LOCATIONS -List Your Favorite Boondocking Locations HERE!
> http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/freecampgroundsofthewest YAHOO CLUB ON FREE
> CAMPGROUNDS
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > There is also a link to another
> > site <snip> angelfire.com/oh/Boondocking/ , that has Boondocking info.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 02 19:59:40 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: To Walbernize or not?
>From my files:
"The cleaner recommended by Airstream is 'Walbernize Super Seal and
Glaze, for 1984 and newer models that have been plasticoated, plus units
that have been replasticoated. Units built before 1984 Airstream
recommends 'Walbernize Cleaner and Glaze." These products are available
at your authorized Airstream dealer."
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:25:13 -0700
From: "Wayne Mrazek" <wmrazek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Axles
I just had an axle installed in my 62 Bambi at Inland RV. The quoted price
with tires and wheels was $1500. When I went to pick it up, I was surprised
that the axle/wheels portion of my bill had increased to about $2500, but it
rides very nice now. Because the axles are special ordered, replacement
takes about 10 weeks and your old axle has to be removed before the lead
time starts.
Wayne
> Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:31:18 -0400
> From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: axles
>
> Recently I read on the Vac website parts classifieds that Inland RV has
been
> awarded exclusive national distribution from Henschen axles . We can only
hope
> that the price continues
> to be as reasonable as I have been recently quoted from other Airstream
> dealerships . Exclusive usually means expensive to me .
> Chris Elliott
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 22:32:07 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation
I have a '92 Mazda Miata with the same setup.
The battery is in the trunk. The battery, which is made specifically for
the Miata (read: twice as expensive as a "normal" battery ;-), had special
caps that attach to two hoses. Those hoses hook to a "T" fitting, which
hooks to a hose that vents out the bottom of the chasis.
I have never heard of any problems with that arrangement.
Dave
At 09:28 PM 6/6/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Our 1973 Avion has 2, Group 24 batteries under the front couch, sitting in
>a plastic box that has a loose-fitting cover. Cell ventilation is provided
>by special caps that cover 3 cells/each. The caps press into the cell
>openings just like the originals, but they have a nipple that has a short
>hose connected to a series of 'Tee' fittings, culminating in a hose that
>goes through the bottom of the battery box, then out through the bellypan.
>The box itself also has a molded-in drain line that exits through the
>bellypan; the vent hose goes through that.
>
>This is the OEM setup and appears to be "OK" in my book. The caps are
>probably not perfectly sealed to the batteries, but I'd bet that most of
>the dangerous fumes go overboard.
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 22:29:08 -0400
From: "Robins" <lrobinson1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Axles
Dexter makes a similar type of axle. It may be a good idea to check then
out.
john
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Mrazek" <wmrazek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Axles
> I just had an axle installed in my 62 Bambi at Inland RV. The quoted
price
> with tires and wheels was $1500. When I went to pick it up, I was
surprised
> that the axle/wheels portion of my bill had increased to about $2500, but
it
> rides very nice now. Because the axles are special ordered, replacement
> takes about 10 weeks and your old axle has to be removed before the lead
> time starts.
>
> Wayne
>
> > Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:31:18 -0400
> > From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Subject: axles
> >
> > Recently I read on the Vac website parts classifieds that Inland RV has
> been
> > awarded exclusive national distribution from Henschen axles . We can
only
> hope
> > that the price continues
> > to be as reasonable as I have been recently quoted from other Airstream
> > dealerships . Exclusive usually means expensive to me .
> > Chris Elliott
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:27:42 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Water System
Dick,
Each new ShurFlo pump comes with a very good set of "guy directions" on what a
demand water system should look like. You can sorta see it on this PDF file from
their web site.
http://www.shurflo.com/pdf/rv/install_guidelines/RV_Install_Guidelines.pdf
Most systems these days have both a gravity fill (aluminum fill tube) and a city
water connection. The city water hooks in on the pressure side of the pump which
does not allow water to back flow through it. Early Airstream demand systems and
more and more newer coaches have a valve that can be used to bypass the pump and
allow city water to back flow into the tank
Charlie
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> I am planning to replace our rusty galvanized water tank and air pump with a
> plastic tank and shurflo water pump. In this new setup will I still fill
> the tank through the original aluminum fill tube that sticks out the front
> of the trailer or will I fill through a regular city water connection. If
> the hose connection is the way to go is there a preferred way to plumb in
> the water pump and city water connection so the city water pressure can
> either fill the tank or bypass the water pump and pressurize the faucets
> etc? If the city water connection is downstream of the pump will the city
> water flow backward through the pump? I imagine I would need a vent for the
> water tank to allow water to flow in and out but I think that could be very
> small and drain through the floor.
>
> Even though I am not to this stage in my project If the fill tube is not
> needed that could be the answer to my battery vent. I could drill a very
> discreet hole in the bottom of the tube and terminate a plastic battery vent
> hose there. I'd have to secure the aluminum tube inside the trailer since
> it would not be connected to the new water tank at all.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 22:33:25 -0600
From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Grease Cap - serendipity
on 6/6/02 1:39 PM, Terry Tyler at tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Jere, after reading your post, I'll bet a pinch to a pound of salt that you
> will pay 100% attention every time you have the feelings that occurred when
> you said, "what are the chances?"
I'm too much of a scientist to always be open to "go with it", but have had
a few memorable experiences like that. I apologize for getting off topic,
but here goes...
About 20 yrs ago, we were traveling up to the Black Hills in my VW bus, and
had a generator pulley that was getting worn & too loose. This is death to a
Volkswagen, as it also drives the cooling fan. I fiddled with it on the way
up several times, and at the Forest Service campground when we got there.
Went to sleep in the tent, then woke up the next morning, and unzipped the
tent, and there right across the road was a beautiful vintage Bug tha thad
pulled in during the night. As I continued to fiddle with my pulley problem,
the older gent came over to me, asking, etc. Long story short- he "just
happened" to have a spare pulley, that he gave me, and all was right that
day....
Return to Airstream content: I Have replaced my tinkering with VWs for
Airstreams, in multiples.
The serendipity did continue yesterday too, as I woke during the night.
Until I could get back to sleep, I went in the office to find a new book,
looked past some up front on the shelf, and found one that I had forgotten I
had ordered form my book club a couple of years ago. Stephen Abrose' Citizen
Soldier, about D-Day and beyond. As I opened it to begin reading I realized
that today was June 6th. What are the chances of that? I have always thought
that so much of what happened during WWII had a bearing on the world I grew
up in, and have gratitude for all veterans in whichever theater they served.
We'll see if my luck continues......Thanks for your words of wisdom!
> Jere Potter
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 00:50:52 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: To Walbernize or not?
on 06/06/02 12:42 PM, afisken@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> A second question on exterior preservation: the flat handle and lock
> mechanism on this AS is losing all its chrome-like finish, leaving an ugly,
> pitted surface that looks like galvanized metal. Has anyone found a solution
> to this? Is the chrome paint from an auto supply place the best idea?
Kathy,
Why don't you solve two problems with one solution? Buy a new lock that's
shiny and save the old lock with your spare parts stash for when something
breaks inside the new lock's mechanism? Plus, if you're on a caravan, you
may be the only one who has the critical parts when someone else's lock goes
kaput.
On more than one occasion, I've been loaned a used "something or other" from
another caravaner after promising to replace it with an identical duplicate.
It doesn't take many of these experiences to quickly learn where to find odd
parts and which parts are most likely to break at an inconvenient time.
As an aside, if you haven't already established a pattern of shutting your
Airstream's door without slamming it, that would be a good habit to form.
Your 30 year old lock will love you and might not break tomorrow.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 22:30:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Precision Temp Installation
Bob-
The tankless water heater was installed in the same
manner as a conventional heater, with the exhaust
exiting externally thru the curbside rear panel same
way the Bowen did. The PrecisionTemp unit and access
door are smaller, so you either sheet in around the
new access cover, or you just leave the old Bowen
cover in place and cut out inside it to accommodate
the new heater cover. The PrecisionTemp site spells
out the dimensional differences.
Afterwards I picked up some 1-1/2" aluminum faced
styrofoam insulating board at Home Depot ($6 for a 4x8
sheet) and insulated the interior surfaces of the
water heater, to cut down the heat gain inside the
interior closet. A little aluminum flashing tape
sealed the seams and dressed the edges of the styro
board so the bathroom closet has a more finished look.
As another benefit, the new smaller heater left plenty
of room for mounting a new Intelli-Power convertor in
that same closet area, replacing the heavier, bulkier
vintage Uni-volt that had sat under the leaky sink and
was not secured to the floor. Now the space under the
bathroom vanity is all uncluttered storage space. So
I'm feeling good that we have retained the outwardly
visible "vintage" look while updating the underlying
technologies.
John Leggett
1968 Safari
WBCCI #1154
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:32:34 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Precision Temp Recommendation
From: "John Leggett" <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Precision Temp Recommendation
> CruiserBob-
>
> I had Inland RV in Corona install a Precision Temp
> RV500 last February in a 1968 Safari that had an old
> 10 gal Bowen in the bathroom closet. I have nothing
> but praise for the new tankless unit.
>
> It occupies way less than half the space of the old
> unit, requires zero clearance, and the exhaust is
cool
> enough to hold your hand over the exhaust port - so
no
> soot marks or bluing on the exterior. Precision
sells
> a stainless exterior access cover that looks right
at
> home on an Airstream.
John,
Did they point the vented side of the unit out
through the access
cover
OR in toward the service compartment?
Thanks for the info
Bob
Oceanside
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 08:46:33 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: axles
Andy -
Thats the answer I had hoped to hear from you ! Look forward to doing
business with you , as eventually I`m going to need one , along with most all
vintage owners . Whenever I hear " exclusive distributor " , I think of
California electricity bills and price spikes for unleaded gas due to "
shortages " created by the industry , as corporate profits rise .
Thanks for putting my mind at ease ,
Chris Elliott
Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Chris Elliot.
> The price that we have established for the axles, in fact, is less than the
> Airstream factory had charged in the past.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 06:41:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: hydrogen hazards
I'm not sure where I stand as far as my own personal
concern about hydrogen build-up while charging a
battery. But, FWIW, here's an idea:
Why don't you use forced ventilation? This is what's
done on engine compartments in ships to avoid the
buildup of explosive gases.
A tiny DC fan can be bought from an electronics
vendor. These little guys use less than 0.1 amps.
Obviously, they don't build much pressure, either.
But, you could use flexible conduit with bulkhead
fittings on the battery case or even PVC pipe. Less
than 1 CFM is more than enough to take care of this
problem.
Since hydrogen is lighter than air, put the exhaust
higher than the input. And naturally, the system
should be positive pressure so that you aren't pulling
the exhaust gases past a tiny spark-making machine.
If you're solar, you can run the fan off the solar
directly. This ensures that the fan only runs when
the panels are charging. Thus, there's no discharge
of battery power by the fan when it isn't needed.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
I can feel the drafts from my battery compartment!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 09:47:24 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Axles
Wayne, was any explanation given for the $1,000 price increase for your axle
replacement at Inland RV?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Mrazek" <wmrazek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 22:25
Subject: [VAC] Axles
> I just had an axle installed in my 62 Bambi at Inland RV. The quoted
price
> with tires and wheels was $1500. When I went to pick it up, I was
surprised
> that the axle/wheels portion of my bill had increased to about $2500, but
it
> rides very nice now. Because the axles are special ordered, replacement
> takes about 10 weeks and your old axle has to be removed before the lead
> time starts.
>
> Wayne
>
> > Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:31:18 -0400
> > From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Subject: axles
> >
> > Recently I read on the Vac website parts classifieds that Inland RV has
> been
> > awarded exclusive national distribution from Henschen axles . We can
only
> hope
> > that the price continues
> > to be as reasonable as I have been recently quoted from other Airstream
> > dealerships . Exclusive usually means expensive to me .
> > Chris Elliott
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 10:15:44 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Axles
Wayne. It would also be fair to say that your trailer did not have an axle
mounting plate. Additionally, the Airstream factory no longer has single axle
mounting plates.Therefore it was necessary to have them specially made for
your trailer. The $1500.00 you were quoted also did not include freight or
shocks, or any labor to properly measure and install the axle mounting
plates.
You also didn't mention that we, at your request, replaced your tires and
wheels, as well as balancing them.
And then there is the matter of installing a scare light, rebuilding the
entrance door and modifying the door for a lock that was used on later
models.
In fact, your total bill, including the axle mounting plate, for the axle
replacement, came to $1587.60, plus sales tax.
Normal replacement axles take 3 weeks to receive. Yours was a very custom
axle, with different measurements and different specifications.
Items with special specifications, don't come off the shelf.
Wayne, come on, lets be fair
We do appreciate you letting others know, that we did cure the suspension
problem.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 10:30:28 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: axles
Chris. Because of the electricity problem, we changed our working hours from
8 to 5, to 7 to 4. That in itself reduces the electric bill.
Our city of Corona, is also going to put in a generating plant, to supply
power to those businesses that will are close to the plant.
Because of that, they now have, at least to a small degree, purchasing power
from Edison, and selling it at a 10 % discount.
The price of gasoline, normally does not have an effect on us.
Every little helps.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 15:46:06 -0700
From: James Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Location of bypass valve..
We have an 86 32' Excella with the "Island Queen Bed and a set of drawers
under a microwave and 3 closet doors and a set of drawers on the curbside
of the trailer... there are some valves under the drawers next to the
sink... Is that where I should find the bypass valve to put water in the
tank from the "city water inlet"??? The system drains seem to be there...
Jim
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 19:03:36 -0400
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <llindner@xxxxxxxxxx.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Free/Cheap Camping Sites
6/6/2002 12:52:16 PM, My Airstream <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Here is a copy of the links referred on that page with no cookie triggers.
WOW! Thanx!!!
-- Lew #4239
'72 Safari
bicycle
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #327
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