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VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Thursday, June 6, 2002      Issue 326
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: Climbing on the roof
        2. Precision Temp Recommendation
        3. Re: Wheel bearing grease caps
        4. Re: Wheel bearing grease caps
        5. Re: link wanted
        6. travel advice
        7. Re: Battery ventilation
        8. Front Window Protector
        9. Re: TV recepticle
       10. Water System
       11. It must be summer
       12. axles
       13. What's up at VAC
       14. Black tank valve
       15. Re: Battery ventilation
       16. Re: Wheel bearing grease caps
       17. Re: Precision Temp Recommendation
       18. Re: Battery ventilation
       19. Re: parts for rebuilding water pump
       20. Re: Black tank valve
       21. Re: Battery ventilation
       22. Re: axles
       23. Re: Precision Temp Recommendation
       24. Free/Cheap Camping Sites
       25. Re: It must be summer
       26. Re: Battery ventilation
       27. To Walbernize or not?
       28. Tire Pressure Monitor
       29. Re: Climbing on the roof
       30. Primer and painting vinyl wallpaper
       31. Re: Front Window Protector
       32. Grease Cap - serendipity
       33. Wheel bearing grease caps
       34. Advice please




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:39:11 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Climbing on the roof

Mel,
    Check out the Krause MultiMatic ladder on my website.  It can be
configured to have one quarter of the ladder on top and the other three
quarters up the side.  It can also be a straight ladder, A frame or a
scaffold.  When I first saw your post I decided to look Krause up so I could
give you a website.  I found them and unfortunately they went bankrupt after
a lawsuit and could no longer get insurance.  I have had the ladder for
three years and it works great but I don't know where you'd get one.  You
can see it on my home page.

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA



------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:43:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Precision Temp Recommendation

OK Greg, you shamed me into responding.

CrusierBob-

I had Inland RV in Corona install a Precision Temp
RV500 last February in a 1968 Safari that had an old
10 gal Bowen in the bathroom closet.  I have nothing
but praise for the new tankless unit.

It occupies way less than half the space of the old
unit, requires zero clearance, and the exhaust is cool
enough to hold your hand over the exhaust port - so no
soot marks or bluing on the exterior.  Precision sells
a stainless exterior access cover that looks right at
home on an Airstream.  And with a city water
connection you have UNLIMITED hot water (for as long
as your propane holds out).  That was enough to sell
me!

The manufacturer claims it's 20% more efficient than
convention heaters and there's no heating and
reheating the same tankful of water when you're not
using it.  Response time to get hot water to the tap
is no different than with a tank heater.

Sure, it's pricey, but I don't intend to replace but
one water heater in my lifetime, and I'm hopeful there
is less to rust out, corrode or freeze up (if ever
left in cold country, which San Francisco ain't). 
There's no more than a quart of water contained in the
unit at any given time, so even springing a leak
represents less of a mess than having a 10 gal tank
let go.

So for all these reasons I convinced myself it was
worth the "extravagance".

The one weak spot to watch-out for in the whole design
is the check valve where you connect the water supply
to the unit.  The component is manufactured inhouse at
Precision Temp by machining out standard copper tubing
or pipe (I don't remember which) to allow for the
check valve insert, but in doing so it reduces the
sidewall of the copper to where it is VERY easy to
twist the thing right off when attaching the water
lines (right, Greg?!)  I have one here I could show
you, in fact!  And it ain't cheap to replace.  So be
very, very careful when it comes to that last
installation step.

Otherwise, the unit has performed flawlessly since
installation.  This propane tankless heater is the
only way to go (IMHO).  You won't be disappointed.


John Leggett
1968 Safari
WBCCI #1154
------------------------------

Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:12:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?

> >Roy Lashway wrote:
> The unit in my friends trailer was a Precision
model.

> A great deal of interest in the Precision Temp RV->
> 500 has been shown
> throughout this thread.  I have specified this unit
> in my upcoming 
> grant.
> Any happy or unhappy users out there?

> Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:54:55 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bearing grease caps

Jere,

I don't know if they'll have one, but the ONLY place in Denver that had 
brand-new grease caps for our '64 GT was:

Cowboy Metal Products
1075 S. Galapagos
Denver, CO 80223
303.778.0851
Willis - Owner
Jerry - Parts Mgr.

They are an "old-timey" mom&pop kind of facility that fabricates custom 
one-of-a-kind trailers, it looks like they have been in business for 
years and have stock from every decade. Willis is a G.O.B. (good 'ol 
boy) and when we told him we were restoring our Airstream, he gave us 
the caps! He's got a customer for life...

Rob & Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter #1824
Denver, CO



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 22:19:56 -0700
From: Tuna <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel bearing grease caps

try a marine/boating supply place, or a general purpose/utility trailer
place. i think they're called 'Bearing Buddies'. Shoot, they might even have
'em at WalMart.

tuna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jere Potter" <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: [VAC] Wheel bearing grease caps


> I lost a wheel bearing grease cap while bringing my'64 Safari down out of
> the mountains. It aint a good feeling when things fall off your trailer.
I
> am having trouble finding a replacement for it because it is unusual. It
is
> a Threaded cap, not a press-fit cap. Outside has a large hex-head, threads
> are fine, female/internal on the inboard side. It unscrews using
slip-joint
> pliers.  Anybody have a source for finding a new one?  I have been around
> town to all kinds of places and have had no luck. Even checked with a
> machine shop about fabricating one. I will be hitting the road next week
and
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:04:33 -0400
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: link wanted

Hey Toby,

Taylor, Tad
E-mail Address(es):
  healthy@xxxxxxxxxx.net
  
or go to 
www.healthy-homes.com


WAM

Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:25:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: link wanted

looking for a link to the guy (in the northeast?) who
refurbishes airstreams for people with medical
sensitivities.

anyone have it?  I went to Tom Pattersons site (which
seems to be partly down?) and also did a web search to
no avail.

Thanks for your help.

Toby 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com





------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 09:29:27 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: travel advice



Nick wrote:
> 
> It would be great to get some advice on where to stay on both the trip out to
> Spokane with just the suburban.

Boy are you going to be sick of I-90!  My wife and I have traveled west from
Wisconsin to Montana and east from Wisconsin to New York on this Interstate
many times.  You will have no problem finding a place to stay with just the
Suburban.  When we want to be comfortable we prefer the Comfort Inn or
Holiday Inn Express (blue signs not the old Holiday Inns with the green
signs) chains both of which include a light breakfast.  They are scattered
along the Interstate at most of the major exits.  They do tend to be
expensive at $50. to $70. per night.  Join their clubs the first time you
stay to get their best rate.  They also discount for AAA if you care to
join.  We do not normally make reservations and have not had a problem
finding a room.  Of course we usually stop between 5:00 and 6:00 PM.  You
can always reserve for the night at the same chain before you leave in the
morning.  There are also plenty of less expensive places but the quality is
hit or miss and you can waste a lot of time shopping around.

My preference is to time my trip for non rush hour and drive the Chicago
Skyway and the Dan Ryan expressway right through Chicago.  If you are
comfortable driving in traffic you may want to try this on your way west.
This lets you stay on I-90 and is shorter than going around but can be
messy.  Chicago is the worst traffic you'll go through so study your map of
that area carefully.  There are toll roads in the Chicago area.  Have some
cash ready (about $20. total without the trailer) and use them.  Maybe
someone else that doesn't start in Wisconsin has a better suggestion for
bypassing Chicago.

My best advice -- skip Wall Drug and spend any extra time you might have in
the mountain states.  They are fabulous.  And bring plenty of distractions
(my preference is food) for western Minnesota and all of South Dakota.

I'll let the experienced folks comment on traveling with your new
Overlander.  Good luck, you've got a lot of driving ahead of you.

Dick
'62 Bambi



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 10:56:18 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <mprice@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation

-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
[mailto:geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net] 

>You may think battery ventilation is academic...

I have to wholeheartedly agree with Gerald. I'm one of those people who
think they're immune from danger. I would normally read posts like the
battery thread and think "Yeah, but what's the chances something could
go wrong, 1 in a million?"

I worked as a firefighter for 11 years and one of the worse injuries I
ever saw another firefighter sustain was because of a battery. We used
to check the fluid levels once a week. The batteries were in a
compartment and a the vent had become blocked with mud. My friend Keith
was checking the terminals were tight, he must have shorted the battery
causing a spark. There was a small explosion that blew off part of the
battery casing and after lots of surgery he lost the use of his left
eye.

He did get to wear a cool eye patch for the rest of his life but he
didn't get to be a firefighter anymore which was his real passion in
life. Stuff happens, and not always to someone else.

Mel and Sheila
'72 Trade Wind
Cleveland, OH  


------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 10:21:13 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Front Window Protector

Hi Gang!

I've recently purchased a '63 Safari, the shell is in great shape but the
interior needs renovating and a few repairs.  So it looks like I'm about to
become a regular here!

It didn't come with the front window protector/awning that I've seen in many
photos and I was wondering if these are still available or will I have to
look for a used one?  There doesn't appear to be any hardware on the window
to accommodate one.

Regards,

Shawn Clarry
'63 Safari



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:01:37 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: TV recepticle

The two prong socket is for a 300 ohm TV antenna wire - the flat twin lead.
To go to coax (which is 75 ohms) you need a balun (balancing transformer)
which will convert 300 ohms to 75 ohms and vice versa depending on which way
you connect it.

Any electronics store, or even a Home Depot (in the electronics and phone
wiring section) carry them.

The other socket is a 12 volt "cigarette lighter" receptacle which could be
used to power your TV if it is wired to run on 12 Volts. Some small portable
TVs have this capability.

Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:43 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Cost of Manuals and what's this white thing


> At 11:54 PM 6/3/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
> >I have 2 white plastic plates in my trailer and of course no manual.
> >What are they for? They both have a silver recessed socket, a little
> >like a cigarette lighter socket. One of them has two very small holes
> >below the silver socket. I found some flat wire with a plug that goes
> >into these small holes. Is this the TV antenna? If so, it currently
> >terminates with two bare wires. How do I convert this to the coax
> >terminator that goes into the back of my TV.
>
> Yes, thats the TV antenna and power connectors.
>
> The antenna plug was made for a two pronged plug that connects to "flat"
75
> ohm (I believe) twin lead antenna wire.
>
> To hook it up to coax, you will need a matching transformer. You can get
> those at any Radio Shack or home center that sells TV antennas. They are
> very inexpensive. You may even find the plug there.
>
> Dave
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 11:32:50 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: Water System

I am planning to replace our rusty galvanized water tank and air pump with a
plastic tank and shurflo water pump.  In this new setup will I still fill
the tank through the original aluminum fill tube that sticks out the front
of the trailer or will I fill through a regular city water connection.  If
the hose connection is the way to go is there a preferred way to plumb in
the water pump and city water connection so the city water pressure can
either fill the tank or bypass the water pump and pressurize the faucets
etc?  If the city water connection is downstream of the pump will the city
water flow backward through the pump?  I imagine I would need a vent for the
water tank to allow water to flow in and out but I think that could be very
small and drain through the floor.

Even though I am not to this stage in my project If the fill tube is not
needed that could be the answer to my battery vent.  I could drill a very
discreet hole in the bottom of the tube and terminate a plastic battery vent
hose there.  I'd have to secure the aluminum tube inside the trailer since
it would not be connected to the new water tank at all.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Dick
'62 Bambi



------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:42:55 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: It must be summer

Haven't seen any Airstream messages in a while.

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari 
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA  



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:31:18 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: axles

Recently I read on the Vac website parts classifieds that Inland RV has been
awarded exclusive national distribution from Henschen axles . We can only hope
that the price continues
 to be as reasonable as I have been recently quoted from other Airstream
dealerships . Exclusive usually means expensive to me .
Chris Elliott





------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:45:45 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: What's up at VAC

For the past four days I have been seeing only sporadic messages and none
today????

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:59:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Pillar <raypillar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Black tank valve

Greetings,
I have been rebuilding a 66 Safari and am now ready to
work on the black tank. The tank itself had some leaks
around the top which I sealed and now I would like to
rebuild the valve or replace it. Is there a standard
replacement for this valve?  Is there a rebuild kit
available?
Thanks
Ray Pillar 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:22:08 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation

Hydrogen doesn't demand the strength of spark of shorting the battery. A
little static discharge will be sufficient. Switching the light or
bumping it so the battery disconnected on the bounce is enough.

I had a client (suffering acid burns) from a battery that blew up when
he shook it slightly. A bit of plate material had transferred from the
other plate making a tiny shorted battery. When he shook the battery to
see the electrolyte (even though it was bolted down in his daughter's
car), it submerged the tiny shorted battery and that was enough to set
off the explosion that dismantled the battery in his face.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:29:37 -0600
From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bearing grease caps

Thanks for the tips guys, but I'm suddenly in luck!!!The gods must be
smiling down on me today, because I actually found one! On my way home from
work, I didn't go right home, because they are paving my street, so I half
decided to even retrace my route where I lost the cap- only 30 miles- what
are the chances? Instead, I stopped at the recently opened thrift store for
Habitat-for-Humanity, to browse. While looking around outside, I remembered
they had an old, old Avion around back. I took a look, just on the chance it
had my same axle. I got up to it and was disappointed to see the cap missing
from the wheel hub, and noted that it was also threaded like mine- drats!
Then, I went around to the other side, and Yes!, there it was, the same cap
I needed. I reached down, and was able to manually unscrew it. Took it
inside, and explained that it was from the old trailer, and it was already
missing one.  We settled on a price on 2 dollars- since it was greasy, she
thought "ick". I would have paid 10 times that if I had to!
Got it home, and sure enough, it fits! Talk about chance! I should go buy a
lottery ticket...
Rest of my day was spent rebuilding my 7 pin plug.
Thanks again,  Jere Potter



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:32:34 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Precision Temp Recommendation

From: "John Leggett" <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Precision Temp Recommendation
> CrusierBob-
>
> I had Inland RV in Corona install a Precision Temp
> RV500 last February in a 1968 Safari that had an old
> 10 gal Bowen in the bathroom closet.  I have nothing
> but praise for the new tankless unit.
>
> It occupies way less than half the space of the old
> unit, requires zero clearance, and the exhaust is cool
> enough to hold your hand over the exhaust port - so no
> soot marks or bluing on the exterior.  Precision sells
> a stainless exterior access cover that looks right at
> home on an Airstream.

John,
    Did they point the vented side of the unit out through the access cover
OR in toward the service compartment?
Thanks for the info
Bob
Oceanside



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 00:09:37 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation

Good to hear from you Gerald. As usual, your posts are stimulating.

Your comments raise a valid point, even though I think they're somewhat
tangential to my intended use of the word "academic." Nevertheless, you've
sparked my interest in a new project to determine the circumstances where my
solar panels might be able to achieve the 4% hydrogen concentration by
volume, as you mentioned. And - to determine what conditions will discharge
the batteries sufficiently to achieve 4% hydorgen concentration by volume -
during the ordinary day to day (night to night) use of my Airstream.

Also, I need to figure out a way to compare the volume of rising hydrogen
fumes before some of it escapes through my 1/4 inch hoses - to the volume
being created by the charging of my solar panels during either sunny,
intermittent cloudy or cloudy days. Creating a realistic form of measurement
or a crude approximation of measurement may take some doing.

When you mentioned a room full of golf carts whose batteries were being
charged and the room having inadequate forced ventilation, that seemed like
an obvious example of a disaster waiting for an opportunity to occur.

The two batteries in my drafty Airstream with their small but dedicated
ventilation hoses seem paltry by comparison to a room full of golf cart
batteries, especially when my two batteries are being charged by two solar
panels which generate 3 amps at best (in direct sunlight for a few hours per
day in the northeast) and not by 110 volt battery chargers.

While I'm trying to define and measure the variables involved, I'll be
particularly aware of instances where my solar panels are at maximum charge
capability and for how long a period of time.

My gut feeling is the solar panels don't offer enough charge capability for
long enough duration to raise the hydrogen concentration level (under my
couch) to above the 4% you mentioned, especially with minimal but
unrestricted 1/4 inch hose ventilation in the equation.  On the discharge
side, my gut feeling is that two 12 volt lights and a small TV won't create
sufficient discharge (during a few hours in the evening) to raise the
hydrogen concentration above 4%  by volume.

But - I love it when the goal is to refine and apply general laws of physics
to specific, concrete examples where there are dozens of variables. Whether
I can measure and document differences in these variables to my satisfaction
or not, I'm going to spend some time on it.

Thanks again for prompting me to look at the concepts in a different way,

Terry

mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com

---------------------------

on 06/04/02 11:15 PM, geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:

> You may think battery ventilation is academic, but remember that the
> fumes from the battery when charging (or under heavy discharge) are 2
> parts hydrogen to one part oxygen, the optimum mixture for the biggest
> bang. However, in air hydrogen will burn from 4% to 75% hydrogen
> concentration by volume. That wide range of combustible mixtures means a
> lot of ventilation is necessary to reduce the hydrogen concentration in
> any closed spaces to something below combustible.
> 
> Several years ago, I saw the results of overcharging (time only) a
> sulfated golf cart battery in a room full of golf carts with inadequate
> forced ventilation. All it took was the slight spark when the timer
> contacts opened. Depending on random drafts through a 1/4" diameter tube
> isn't adequate ventilation.
> 
> Another property of hydrogen is that its the smallest molecule and will
> go through cracks that stop everything else. Its important to be sure
> hydrogen gets OUTSIDE, doesn't stay inside the battery chamber or the
> Airstream. That's easiest by putting the battery out on the tongue,
> OUTSIDE the Airstream shell.
> 
> Gerald J.



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:22:14 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: parts for rebuilding water pump

There is a PAR (JABSCO) manual and parts list for that pump on the VAC
website Online Library.  Our local RV place (non Airstream) carries some
parts, and can order the rest from Jabsco, so imagine Airstream dealers
would be in luck too.

There used to be an online listing of parts at Depco pump, but I can't find
where they hid it now:
http://www.depcopump.com/catalog107/151.pdf

RJ
VintageAirstream.com


> From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:53:01 -0700 (PDT)
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] parts for rebuilding water pump
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get parts to rebuild my
> water pump?  It's a peters and russell model 6800.  I
> need two small disc shaped check valves and the gasket
> for the pressure chambers.  I wouldn't mind a new
> diaphram, either, although this is OK for now.  There
> are no parts listed in my RV "master catalog."
> 
> Many thanks.
> 
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 
> 



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:24:30 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Re: Black tank valve

Hi Ray

What did you seal your leaks with? Just curious what you found to bond with
the tank.

Take Care

Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Pillar" <raypillar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>

> Greetings,
> I have been rebuilding a 66 Safari and am now ready to
> work on the black tank. The tank itself had some leaks
> around the top which I sealed and now I would like to
> rebuild the valve or replace it. Is there a standard
> replacement for this valve?  Is there a rebuild kit
> available?
> Thanks
> Ray Pillar





------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 03:25:17 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation

If your solar system has a charge controller, and you are not equalizing the
batteries, not a whole lot of hydrogen is generated. But you should equalize
them regularly, and during the equalization they generate a lot of hydrogen. You
can get a rough idea how much by how often you need to top up the water
(although this also is a function of temperature). For any enclosed system using
conventional lead-acid batteries, Hydro-Caps are a great investment. They
catalytically re-combine the hydrogen and oxygen, which prevents the escape of
free hydrogen and also drastically reduces the necessity to top up the cells
with distilled water.

Personally, I think a quarter-inch hose is 'way too small for adequate
ventilation, particularly without Hydro-Caps.

OR you can use an AGM battery... which is definitely NOT the same as a gel-cell.

Best regards,

Rik


Terry Tyler wrote:

> My gut feeling is the solar panels don't offer enough charge capability for
> long enough duration to raise the hydrogen concentration level (under my
> couch) to above the 4% you mentioned, especially with minimal but
> unrestricted 1/4 inch hose ventilation in the equation.  On the discharge
> side, my gut feeling is that two 12 volt lights and a small TV won't create
> sufficient discharge (during a few hours in the evening) to raise the
> hydrogen concentration above 4%  by volume.



------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:04:06 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: axles

Chris Elliot. 
The price that we have established for the axles, in fact, is less than the 
Airstream factory had charged in the past.


Andy 
inlandrv.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:39:53 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Precision Temp Recommendation

Bob. There is only "ONE" correct way in install that water heater. We 
innovate, but we don't put a customers safety in jeopardy.

Andy
inlandrv.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 11:47:13 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Free/Cheap Camping Sites

While searching the WEB for Airstream Clipart (if anyone has any, please 
contact me off list :-), I stumbled across a web site, 
http://members.aol.com/stephndudb/rv.html , that has a bunch of misc 
camping info. Towards the bottom of the page are links to files for Delorme 
Street Atlas/GPS and also MS Streets and Trips that show free/cheap camping 
spots. There is also an accompanying text file that describes each site.

I have no idea how good this information is, but I thought it would be of 
interest to this group.

There is also a link to another 
site,  http://www.angelfire.com/oh/Boondocking/ , that has Boondocking info.

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 25
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 11:48:49 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: It must be summer

Still here, just too much weeding,
Daisy

My Airstream wrote:
> 
> Haven't seen any Airstream messages in a while.
> 
> Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 09:57:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Battery ventilation

Ordinary loads tend to produce very little dissociation of the
electrolyte. Charging only produces dissociation near full charge (when
the battery is bubbling) or during equalization charges. The golf cart
room burned because one cart had sulfated batteries and nearly all the
charging energy went into dissociating the electrolyte and the charging
was based only on time, not on battery condition. The hired help wasn't
paid to understand battery charging finesse and the vent fan wasn't big
enough to dilute the hydrogen sufficiently.

Hydrogen in air burns at 4%, I figure you want it diluted to less than
2% to have some margin of safety.

There are procedures for computing the volume of products from
dissociating water by given currents, though I've forgotten the details.
For the safe condition, one should consider all the charging current
goes to dissociation, none to actually charging the battery. That's the
dangerous end condition of charging.

I don't know about computing the fluid flow of hydrogen (density .07 of
air) in a pipe. That's not my bag. I can figure concentrations with a
pump on the pipe, but not simply by gravity.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 27
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 09:42:51 -0700
From: "Alec Fisken" <afisken@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: To Walbernize or not?

My '72 Globetrotter has most of the clearcoat left, and what I've read here
about removing clearcoat has convinced me that I don't have time to remove
it this year. Is there anyone out there who recommends "Walbernize" as an
important step in cleaning the trailer? It's more expensive than cleaners I
already have around the house, but it's billed as doing something special
for Airstreams. Also, there's conflicting info about when it should be
used - I've seen references to "not recommended for trailers with
Plasticoat". I have the impression that my '72's "clearcoat" is not the same
as Plasticoat. So is it a good product to use? (I apologize for not being
able to get a clear answer from searching the archives! I know this has been
discussed before, but I couldn't find this precise question.)

A second question on exterior preservation: the flat handle and lock
mechanism on this AS is losing all its chrome-like finish, leaving an ugly,
pitted surface that looks like galvanized metal. Has anyone found a solution
to this? Is the chrome paint from an auto supply place the best idea?

Thanks in advance!
Kathy Fisken
Seattle WA



------------------------------

Message Number: 28
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:25:15 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Tire Pressure Monitor

Found this information on monitoring tire pressure.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
>
> U.S. gives automakers choice in tire sensors
> June 5, 2002 - The U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
> (NHTSA) will allow automakers to install either one of two types of tire
> pressure monitoring systems that warn motorists when tires are dangerously
> underinflated, beginning with 2004 model vehicles. One method incorporates
> MEMS pressure sensors while the other relies on a vehicle's antilock
braking
> system using wheel speed sensors.
> NHTSA announced on May 30 that the U.S. Department of Transportation
issued
> the first of a two-part ruling as part of the Transportation Recall
> Enhancement, Accountability and Documentation (TREAD) Act of 2000. U.S.
> lawmakers passed the act after receiving reports of Ford Explorers rolling
> over, sometimes fatally, when the treads on their underinflated
> Bridgestone/Firestone tires separated. NHTSA was to determine what
> constitutes monitoring by the end of November 2001.
>
> The ruling lets automakers choose between systems that monitor tire
pressure
> directly with sensors such as MEMS made by SensoNor, Motorola Inc. and TRW
> NovaSensor and used by suppliers such as Cycloid Co. and SmarTire Systems
> Inc. Or they can select a system that infers deflation by measuring and
> comparing wheel speed rotation. The latter can be incorporated into
antilock
> braking systems, which is considered less expensive but also less precise.
>
> The option will be in effect from Nov. 1, 2003 to Oct. 31, 2006. The
> transportation department said it will issue a second ruling by March 1,
> 2005, spelling out performance requirements for the rest of 2006 and
later.
> In the meantime, it will collect studies on the various systems to help it
> determine those requirements, according to its filing.
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 29
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 11:44:25 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Climbing on the roof

I got mine at Home Depot

Daisy

My Airstream wrote:
> 
> Mel,
>     Check out the Krause MultiMatic ladder on my website.  It can be
> configured to have one quarter of the ladder on top and the other three
> quarters up the side.  It can also be a straight ladder, A frame or a
> scaffold.  When I first saw your post I decided to look Krause up so I could
> give you a website.  I found them and unfortunately they went bankrupt after
> a lawsuit and could no longer get insurance.  I have had the ladder for
> three years and it works great but I don't know where you'd get one.  You
> can see it on my home page.
> 
> Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>


------------------------------

Message Number: 30
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:54:43 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <mprice@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Primer and painting vinyl wallpaper

Hi everyone,

I have recently read about a primer that can be used on the "vinyl
wallpaper" on the interior of my A/S. The poster said he thought it was
called Cling but wasn't sure. I've searched for this primer and I can't
find it. Has anyone else had any luck painting over the vinyl?

Andy from Inland RV mentioned keying the vinyl with 150 grade sandpaper
after it was thoroughly cleaned. Would this be all I needed to do or
would I prime too?

I've noticed a distinct lack of posts on this topic in the archives. Is
this because:

A. You're all scared to paint the vinyl
B. Enough of you have tried it to know it's a baaaaad idea
C. I'm ahead of my time
D. Everyone thinks it is so attractive it would never need painting

Mel and Sheila
'72 Trade Wind
Cleveland, OH  


------------------------------

Message Number: 31
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:39:08 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Front Window Protector

Shawn, 

Congratulations on buying a '63 Safari. My '63 22' is a Flying Cloud.

You're in luck. Order the front stone shield from Charlie Burke at American
Way in Boise. He'll know exactly what you need and you'll get the right
parts the first time. Plus, he'll talk to you about caulking while doing the
installation. 

Charlie is on this list and a regular contributor. Contact him directly at
work  >>>  <parts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>.

Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net

++++++++++++++++++

on 06/05/02 11:21 AM, sclarry@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Hi Gang!
> 
> I've recently purchased a '63 Safari, the shell is in great shape but the
> interior needs renovating and a few repairs.  So it looks like I'm about to
> become a regular here!
> 
> It didn't come with the front window protector/awning that I've seen in many
> photos and I was wondering if these are still available or will I have to
> look for a used one?  There doesn't appear to be any hardware on the window
> to accommodate one.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Shawn Clarry
> '63 Safari



------------------------------

Message Number: 32
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:39:07 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Grease Cap - serendipity

Jere, after reading your post, I'll bet a pinch to a pound of salt that you
will pay 100% attention every time you have the feelings that occurred when
you said, "what are the chances?"

I used to think serendipity occurred randomly and was nothing more than pure
luck, but over the years it seems more likely to occur when I'm open minded
about opportunities - even though I don't have any data to support being
that way. 

If a particularly difficult problem is chewing up a lot of my time, the hard
part for me is to stay open minded instead of immediately choosing a lesser
option. Occasionally, when I add in more patience and persistence, it seems
to increase the odds that serendipity will occur. This is one of the puzzles
that won't be solved by me in my lifetime.

There's no denying what happened to you. You used a technique that worked.
Not everyone has that experience on a regular basis. Maybe you can nurture
it to occur more often. Wouldn't that be something?

Terry

mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
on 06/05/02 11:29 PM, potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Thanks for the tips guys, but I'm suddenly in luck!!!The gods must be
> smiling down on me today, because I actually found one! On my way home from
> work, I didn't go right home, because they are paving my street, so I half
> decided to even retrace my route where I lost the cap- only 30 miles- what
> are the chances? Instead, I stopped at the recently opened thrift store for
> Habitat-for-Humanity, to browse. While looking around outside, I remembered
> they had an old, old Avion around back. I took a look, just on the chance it
> had my same axle. I got up to it and was disappointed to see the cap missing
> from the wheel hub, and noted that it was also threaded like mine- drats!
> Then, I went around to the other side, and Yes!, there it was, the same cap
> I needed. I reached down, and was able to manually unscrew it. Took it
> inside, and explained that it was from the old trailer, and it was already
> missing one.  We settled on a price on 2 dollars- since it was greasy, she
> thought "ick". I would have paid 10 times that if I had to!
> Got it home, and sure enough, it fits! Talk about chance! I should go buy a
> lottery ticket...
> Rest of my day was spent rebuilding my 7 pin plug.
> Thanks again,  Jere Potter
> 



------------------------------

Message Number: 33
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:39:08 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Wheel bearing grease caps

on 06/05/02 1:54 AM, rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> I don't know if they'll have one, but the ONLY place in Denver that had
> brand-new grease caps for our '64 GT was:
> 
> Cowboy Metal Products
> 1075 S. Galapagos
> Denver, CO 80223
> 303.778.0851
> Willis - Owner
> Jerry - Parts Mgr.

Robert, your information is timely. We'll be in Denver later this month.
I'll find the place and meet those folks. I appreciate you sharing that.

We're making a quick round trip from the Great Northeast to Colorado Springs
for the birth of another grand daughter. Plus, we'll be visiting friends in
Estes Park. Cowboy is in the neighborhood.

Cheers, 

Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net




------------------------------

Message Number: 34
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:39:09 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Advice please

on 06/04/02 5:18 PM, nicholas.sowter@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> It would be great to get some advice on where to stay on both the trip out to
> Spokane with just the suburban. And also where we can stay for the night when
> on the way back with the Airstream.
> 
> I will have a mechanic with me, courtesy of his desire to hit the road, and a
> very helpful relative back in Albany. Some advice on places to stay once I get
> back to Albany and travel with my family would be great.
> 
Hi Nick and Jackie,

To answer the second question first. Ask your relative to telephone the NYS
Parks office in Albany (474.0456) and request a list of all the State Parks
and Environmental Conservation (EnCon) Parks. There are hundreds of them
within a 300 mile range of Albany (that's a big circle). It would be smart
to look into making reservations as far in advance as possible.

Also, you might want to stay at one of these parks during your return trek
across New York State. There is a conveniently located State Park in
Syracuse (200 miles west of Albany). We stop there on your way back to
Albany when towing our Airstream. The next day, it makes for a short and
easy drive to our home near Albany.

While your relative is tracking down reference books for you, ask him to buy
the US Army Corps of Engineers (COE) Campground Guide from one of the local
book stores (they'll order it if they don't have it in stock). You can use
this guide throughout the entire USA. The campgrounds are open to the
general public. Almost all of them are located on large bodies of water. In
the USA, the COE is responsible for flood control dams and reservoirs.

If your relative is a member of AAA, ask him to go across town to the AAA
office and pick up all the CampBooks, all the individual state maps for your
trip, all the regional maps that go with them (for planning) and a USA map
(for posterity). They are free to members as are the Tour Books which list
sights to see in each state. He should take a small box with him. This
seemingly simple request will provide a wealth of data not available
anywhere else.

My wife and I travel the continent several times each year. We have found
the CampBooks include many economical campgrounds not ordinarily found in
the huge, thick directories of high priced campgrounds published by camping
magazine companies.

We belong to AAA just so we can pick up the maps (including local specialty
maps) at any office in the USA. The AAA offices around the continent are
usually within easy reach from the Interstate if you need a local city map
(free) for finding your way around while playing tourist. They have many
other services which we don't use. For us, the maps and CampBooks are worth
the price of membership ($45).

For a one time trip (one way solo west and one way towing east), these ideas
are  probably sufficient for your needs. There are dozens of other sources
that identify attractive campgrounds operated by villages, towns, cities,
municipalities, counties, regional areas, fairgrounds, light companies,
fraternal organizations, lumber companies and other non-traditional sources
(courtesy parking at homes of Airstreamers). If you stumble onto any of
those, great. But, identifying them would take a lot of homework in the
short time you have before leaving.

If you travel through the state of Nebraska, do a quick calculation to
assess buying the season pass for using their campgrounds. When my wife and
I spend more than four nights in Nebraska, we feel it's worth buying the
pass (includes a directory).

At each state line, be sure to stop at the "Welcome Center" and see what's
new. Last year, one gave away free thermos bottles to everyone who stopped
and filled out a survey. You can do that, too.

Recognize that in some states, it's okay to stay overnight on the Interstate
at rest areas. Some states (like New Mexico) have areas separated just for
that purpose. This may be a sensible option if you return through Kansas.
After 5 hours of looking at corn growning and expecting to see more of the
same all day the next day, you might consider that an option.

During your trip west, look for Flying J Gas Stations. At the first one, buy
the Trucker's Guide ($20) so you can find all the truck stops along your
upcoming route.  There are many benefits to using Flying J service stations.
The Guide may have a different name this year (RVer's Friend) or some such
variation. You want the one that lists all the truck stops in the USA.
Inside that guide, there's a column identifying which truck stops are "RV
Friendly." That little piece of information can prove to be very useful.

While at the service desk, ask to join the Flying J "Real Value Club." Fill
out the application and you'll be given (free) a plastic card (size of a
credit card with your name and code numbers on it). When you "swipe" that
card in the slot at Flying J fuel pumps, it entitles you to a 1 cent a
gallon discount on fuel purchases.

Flying J service stations have restaurants, mini stores and showers ($5). If
your suburban doesn't have a CB radio, this might be a good time to buy one.
Choose one with the weather channel features. If need be, ask the clerk for
the name of someone who can install it for you. It's very helpful to have
the weather channels when dark clouds become the norm. Combine that with
your maps which identify counties and you'll know which direction the
tornados are traveling and whether you are going into them or away from
them. Right about then, you'll be thankful for your maps with county names.

It would benefit you to become familiar with where RVers park their trailers
while taking a rest stop during their travels. You may want to do the same
after you pick up your Airstream. Having a big parking lot to maneuver in is
always a welcome experience, especially when tired.

Be sure to keep a daily journal so you can share experiences afterwards.

Okay, is that enough for starters?  <grin>  Aren't you glad you asked? Now,
you have more to do than before you asked.  That's the chance you take when
you ask for suggestions on this egroup. After rereading my comments, I think
some of them sound a bit bossy. Ignore that and take them in the spirit
intended - suggestions and encouragement.

Stay sharp, drive smart and enjoy the adventure of traveling across America.

Terry

mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net










------------------------------


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