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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, May 28, 2002 Issue 317
Today's Topics:
1. Re:
2. Refrigerator vent
3. Re: Fridge not cooling!
4. Re: water tank,relocate
5. Fridge not cooling!
6. Re: Fridge not cooling!
7. Re: Fridge not cooling!
8. Re: Burping worked for me
9. Re: water tank,relocate
10. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
11. Re: Fridge not cooling!
12. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
13. Re: Fridge not cooling!
14. Re: Fridge not cooling!
15. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
16. Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
17. Re: Fridge not cooling!
18. Re: Heads Down
19. Re: Fridge not cooling!
20. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
21. Re: Heads Down
22. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
23. Re: Heads Down
24. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
25. Mystery Wood Object
26. Re: Fridge not cooling!
27. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
28. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
29. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
30. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:05:29 -0400
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re:
Hi Bob!
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 19:26:36 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Heads Down
The Thetford Slideomatic toilet in my 66 Safari is slowly losing water
through the outake valve. It started with the footpedal not releasing to
the fully closed position. So I kept putting upward pressure on the pedal
and the leaking stopped. Now it has gone further and even when the pedal is
fully up the outake valve is slowly losing water. Has anyone experienced
this problem . . . any known fixes?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
Sounds like the source of your problem is the "O" Ring at the bottom of the
brass flush Valve. You will need to take the toilet out and apart to get at
it. There is no simple way to replace it. if you need further assistance
just ask!
WAM
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:17:40 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: Refrigerator vent
Patrick Ewing wrote:
> My Bambi has the rare & cute little refer
> gas exhaust vent from the factory. It was very easy to vent the gas burner to
> this vent on the back of the trailer and under the rear window.
Our Bambi has the access door but no vent. Is it possible there is a
picture of the vent Patrick refers to somewhere?
Dick
"62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:33:32 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Strange, Dometic seemed to think that this might help, in their Bulletin #
18 which follows:
DOMETIC
BULLETIN #18
DECEMBER 1971
SPECIAL SERVICE BULLETIN
A large percentage of the units returned to us as inoperative are
not defective, but do show signs of being overheated, which would
indicate that the refrigerator had been operated in an off-level
position or with inadequate ventilation.
This will cause an excessive vaporizing of the ammonia within the
boiler. After some hours of this, the liquid mixture in the boiler
is very weak and the pump will cease to operate, which means that the
circulation of liquid stops.
To remedy this fault, we would recommend the following Procedure:
The refrigerator should be removed whenever possible and allowed
sufficient time to cool down. Turn the unit upside down several
times so that the liquid in the absorber vessel can be mixed with
the liquid in the boiler. This will restore the liquid balance.
If the refriqerator is the gas/electric model, the electric heater
should be a checked before re-installing the refrigerator in the vehicle
to be sure that the heater element is inserted to its full length
in its pocket or receptacle. If the electric heater is only partly
inserted, the heat distribution will be incorrect, causing an excessive
vaporizing of the ammonia within the boiler when on electric.
There are many things to consider before determining that the unit
is faulty:
1. Clean and proper Size burner orifice
2. Burner air intake
3. Proper propane gas pressure
4. Height of flame
5. Adequate ventilation
6. Dirty combustion tube
7. Check for ammonia leaks
8. Does the customer know how, and where to level
the refrigerator
We feel sure this information will be of some assistance to you in
helping us to fulfill our obligation to our mutual customers
CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:08 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Fridge not cooling!
> Have you cleaned the burner and orifice? Also make sure you have between
11
> and 13 inches of water column pressure in your LPG system.
> Burping is an "OLD WIFE'S TALE." Never heard of any success to that ritual
in
> my 36 years.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:55:53 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: water tank,relocate
Yes, the 63 Globetrotter had the fresh water inlet on the passenger side of the
front of the trailer.
Jere Potter wrote:
> on 5/27/02 6:10 AM, Herb Spies at spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
>
> > Your problem sounds like a repeat of what I had last year with my 63
> > Globetrotter. Look at http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm to see what I did
> > to fix the leaking tank.
>
> Herb- I have looked at your excellent website before, but now with more
> interest, as I will be replacing my water tank on a '64 Globetrotter. Old
> one was beside the wheel well, and could not be fixed. Now I want to put
> the new tank up front under a new bed to be built, and a streetside dinette
> opposite the galley. The wheel well will be partially in the way. But, my
> question is, Was your filler up front with the tank? Mine is on the side,
> byt the furnace vent & access hatch. I don't want to put a new hole in the
> front if I don't have to, but I don't want an odd-looking filler pipe out
> visible where it runs to the front tank. Any Suggestions from anybody on the
> list? Logic tells me that the bed should be streetside, where it was, with
> tank underneath, but I don't like waking up in the galley.
> Jere Potter #1877
> Fort Collins, CO
> '64 Safari
> '64 Globetrotter
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:13:04 -0500
From: "Dana Kelley" <jckelley@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Fridge not cooling!
Thanks to you all on your advice. After reading the post from todays list I
went out and looked again for the screws. I found one more on each side,
hidden. Once I removed those the unit seemed loose, so I believe we can get
it out now. Hopefully without removing the wall since the credenza is right
beside it.
Oh, I for to mention it doesn't work on gas or electric. Yes, it is getting
gas and I've checked the plug and it is hot.
Oh, Ken Johansen, have you done this burping? If so how long now has yours
worked? And has anyone else tried it?
I just hate to purchase a new one if this one has more life in it. Besides
it matches perfectally and I know a new one will not. Not to mention the
cost. I guess we'll know in a few days, I'll let you all know.
Thanks,
DSK in TEXAS
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:29:56 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
I have seen a number of comments regarding Refrigerator performance (or lack
thereof) lately. If you have a gas refrigerator in your trailer, you would
do well to check out this link - http://www.rvmobile.com/ . There is a
wealth of information on troubleshooting, repairing and getting maximum
performace. There are also service bulletins for old Dometic refrigerators
on this site. This company sells replacement parts, and rebuilds and sells
rebuilt ammonia absorption cooling units. I was able to quickly evaluate
and fix the Dometic unit in our 64 Globetrotter with information from this
site - and I now know far more about these refrigerators than I did before!
This was much more satisfying than paying someone else to fiddle with it and
then still be clueless about how these units function.
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
silvaire@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:23:54 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
My 75 Argosy has a Dometic RM 67 in it. When I got it, it worked sort of. My
reading and conversations over the years are that burping will work for the
older design (square chimney) units, but not on the newer design (round chimney)
units. Last year I tried it on my refer and it worked. It has now been over a
year and the refer continues to operate well. I have recommended it over the
years to customers with mixed results. Try it, it may work
Charlie
Dana Kelley wrote:
> Thanks to you all on your advice. After reading the post from todays list I
> went out and looked again for the screws. I found one more on each side,
> hidden. Once I removed those the unit seemed loose, so I believe we can get
> it out now. Hopefully without removing the wall since the credenza is right
> beside it.
> Oh, I for to mention it doesn't work on gas or electric. Yes, it is getting
> gas and I've checked the plug and it is hot.
> Oh, Ken Johansen, have you done this burping? If so how long now has yours
> worked? And has anyone else tried it?
> I just hate to purchase a new one if this one has more life in it. Besides
> it matches perfectally and I know a new one will not. Not to mention the
> cost. I guess we'll know in a few days, I'll let you all know.
> Thanks,
> DSK in TEXAS
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:21:53 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Burping worked for me
Andy:
Last summer I reawakened my 1957 Flying Cloud after a
long nap. The 1970's replacement refrigerator did not cool
on 120 volt AC electric although the heating coil in the
back was getting hot. I removed the fridge from the wall,
sat it upside down on the floor for 36 hours, righted it and
plugged it in before reinsatallation. It cooled just fine,
so I reinstalled it were it continued to work. Burping work
for me last summer, and I don't have an old wife.
Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO.
Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> Have you cleaned the burner and orifice? Also make sure you have between 11
> and 13 inches of water column pressure in your LPG system.
> Burping is an "OLD WIFE'S TALE." Never heard of any success to that ritual in
> my 36 years.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:41:30 -0600
From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: water tank,relocate
on 5/27/02 7:55 PM, Herb Spies at spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Yes, the 63 Globetrotter had the fresh water inlet on the passenger side of
> the
> front of the trailer.\
> Thanks Herb! J
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:05:20 -0700
From: "Sue Murphy" <trailergirl@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
This is from Sue Murphy at Iowa Boys in North Hollywood.
Thought that I should respond to set the record straight on our
recommendations for doing an acid bath prior to polishing.
Each trailer needs to be evaluated and the owner needs to know the pros and
cons of an acid bath.
We would not automatically recommend an acid bath on every trailer that is
going to be polished.
In many cases it would not be necessary or a good choice to do so.
However on trailers, both AS and others that we have had done in the 40 some
odd years that my family has been it the trailer business, knowing what to
expect going in, the results have been very satisfactory.
Regarding the topic of the original message
Without seeing the propane tank in question it is impossible to know how
badly it is corroded.
I would recommend that before any polishing is done, just so you don't do a
lot of work and then find it has a problem, that it be checked by a company
that can certify tanks. They should be able to tell if there is any problem
with the "mottling" and the corrosion under the label. Even if you have to
pay for an "official" certification, better safe than sorry.
--------Original message:-------------
Subject: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
I just picked up a 5 gallon (20 pound) aluminum propane tank at a
nautical swap meet. It has obviously been used on a boat -- the surface
feels smooth, but looks mottled. And there was some slight corrosion
under a label that I removed from the tank. My question is -- can I
wet-sand the tank (with maybe 400 paper) prior to polishing it, or will
that scratch it so badly that it can't be polished? If sanding isn't the
way to start, what is? Acid wash? I was talking to the folks at Iowa
Boys in N. Hollywood the other day, and they said they start every
trailer polish job with an acid wash. But I've heard others say that is
a bad idea.
I solicit your opinions!
Thanks very much,
Rik
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:03:38 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Dana, I never had any luck burping a refrigerator. The best thing about
trying is you will know how to remove the old one and how to install the new
one.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Kelley" <jckelley@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 22:13
Subject: [VAC] Fridge not cooling!
> Thanks to you all on your advice. After reading the post from todays list
I
> went out and looked again for the screws. I found one more on each side,
> hidden. Once I removed those the unit seemed loose, so I believe we can
get
> it out now. Hopefully without removing the wall since the credenza is
right
> beside it.
> Oh, I for to mention it doesn't work on gas or electric. Yes, it is
getting
> gas and I've checked the plug and it is hot.
> Oh, Ken Johansen, have you done this burping? If so how long now has
yours
> worked? And has anyone else tried it?
> I just hate to purchase a new one if this one has more life in it. Besides
> it matches perfectally and I know a new one will not. Not to mention the
> cost. I guess we'll know in a few days, I'll let you all know.
> Thanks,
> DSK in TEXAS
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:11:18 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Hi Sue Murphy,
Thanks for the sensible perspective. Your experienced insight is appreciated
by those of us who are carefully and methodically restoring our older
Airstreams.
As hobbyists, it's often difficult to get a handle on the bigger picture
while we're in the middle of dealing with a tiny portion of it.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
+++++++++++++
on 05/28/02 1:05 AM, trailergirl@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> This is from Sue Murphy at Iowa Boys in North Hollywood.
> Thought that I should respond to set the record straight on our
> recommendations for doing an acid bath prior to polishing.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:56:07 EDT
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Andy-
My 1966 Dometic perked up nicely after conventional burping. While rolling it
about though, I did clean the heck out of the coils, brushed out the flue,
and cleaned all the ducting vents, screens on the bottom of the coach, &c,
and now can freeze eggs on a hot day with on propane. So I guess it's a
process on a system. Who can say what did the trick? It's a pain pulling out
a reefer! So I suggest being comprehensive in service when you Finally Get It
Out. Firing it up on the bench with electric and gas and checking time and
temps is certainly suggested. It is one of those appliances which it is much
more desirable to work on in vitro instead of in situ !
Alex in Indiana
66 Safari & Overlander
WBCCI 8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:32:27 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
DSK
Yes I did, about two years ago and it still works great! Kindofa funny
story I was camping with several friends and we got to talking about how to
fix the fridge. To make a long story short we did it right there at the
campground - took it out on the picnic table turned if over several times,
shook it a bit, let it sit a bit turned it over again and vola, it has
worked great ever since.
Ken J.
At 09:13 PM 5/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks to you all on your advice. After reading the post from todays list I
>went out and looked again for the screws. I found one more on each side,
>hidden. Once I removed those the unit seemed loose, so I believe we can get
>it out now. Hopefully without removing the wall since the credenza is right
>beside it.
>Oh, I for to mention it doesn't work on gas or electric. Yes, it is getting
>gas and I've checked the plug and it is hot.
>Oh, Ken Johansen, have you done this burping? If so how long now has yours
>worked? And has anyone else tried it?
>I just hate to purchase a new one if this one has more life in it. Besides
>it matches perfectally and I know a new one will not. Not to mention the
>cost. I guess we'll know in a few days, I'll let you all know.
>Thanks,
>DSK in TEXAS
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:42:47 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Shari. Polishing aluminum tanks is OK. Scuffing them with any type abrasive
is not, such as sandpaper, or scotchbright pads.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:59:09 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
John,
Before you go ripping out the tank be absolutely certain that the tank is
the problem. If your water system is the same as on my '60, when you have
water in the tank there is also water in all the lines. You pressurize the
tank, the lines become pressurized also. The leak may be anywhere in the
system.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "John O'Connor Truitt" <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 3:24 AM
Subject: [VAC] Leaking galvanized water tank
> Friends -
> I have a 1963 Globetrotter - with a 15 gallon galvanized water tank up
front. This morning I found the carpet and rugs soaked.
> I strongly suspect the tank as I filled it and pressurized it yesterday.
The trailer was tipped up and back - the rugs were soaked, carpet halfway
back. and wet under the tank.
> Question - what am I getting into trying to replace the tank? Do I want
another galvanzied tank - are they available?
> If I go to plastic can I use the same system - air pump or do I have to go
to a flow pump.
> If you have been thru this before - any leads/advice would be great!.
Thank you.
> Has anyone used the tanks from the grainger catalog?
> John Truitt
> Detroit, MI
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:12:35 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Ken. If a cooling system has become vapor locked, for most any reason, the
system will then not cool. In that case, turning the reefer upside down will
fix the problem.
However, you can still fix a vapor lock, by letting the system cool down to
ambient temperature, overnight is fine, and then tow the trailer 10 to 20
miles. Much easier to do than removing the reefer. If towing it does not fix
it, then "burping" it won't either.
The last thing that can happen, is for one of the internal orifices to become
plugged up, or partially so, by a foreign object, usually a particle of rust.
Burping, may dislodge that particle, so that the unit cools again, but it
will return. When? Who knows. Where will it return? On a trip.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:41:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Karen Waldo <landyacht76@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Heads Down
> The Thetford Slideomatic toilet in my 66 Safari is
> slowly losing water
> through the outake valve.
Hey Bob,
Same thing happened to us. It never seemed to get
worse until the thing never shut off and I didn't
realize it. It filled the tank and bathroom floor. The
whole unit was worn out, mostly rusted and not
repairable. We replaced it. That is hard to do also as
the unit we had is no longer manufactured. I hope you
don't run into the same difficulties that we did.
Karen
WDCU #8440
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:24:30 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Andy
I can only speak of my experience and what you suggested did not work for
me. Its been two years, perhaps I was/am lucky.
Ken Johansen
5358
At 11:12 AM 5/28/02 EDT, you wrote:
>Ken. If a cooling system has become vapor locked, for most any reason, the
>system will then not cool. In that case, turning the reefer upside down will
>fix the problem.
>However, you can still fix a vapor lock, by letting the system cool down to
>ambient temperature, overnight is fine, and then tow the trailer 10 to 20
>miles. Much easier to do than removing the reefer. If towing it does not fix
>it, then "burping" it won't either.
>The last thing that can happen, is for one of the internal orifices to
become
>plugged up, or partially so, by a foreign object, usually a particle of
rust.
>Burping, may dislodge that particle, so that the unit cools again, but it
>will return. When? Who knows. Where will it return? On a trip.
>
>Andy
>inlandrv.com
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:24:19 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
I thought polish was an abrasive. No?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 10:42
Subject: [VAC] Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
> Shari. Polishing aluminum tanks is OK. Scuffing them with any type
abrasive
> is not, such as sandpaper, or scotchbright pads.
> Andy
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:07:04 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Heads Down
Karen,
What is your coach model and year? At first sign of a leak, several
weeks ago, I shut off the water valve leading to the commode. Since that
time I have been hand filling the head with water from a bucket. Then the
output valve began slow leaking. I followed the advice of VAC members and
use a tool to clear any foreign substance from the groove and the valve now
holds water. Tried briefly to restore pressure to system and watched as
water trickled down from hoses in the top part of the unit. Several VAC
members have shared their experience with a fix for these hose (and other
component) leaks. BTW I don't believe that my floor has any extensive water
damage. Plywood around head is solid.
I am printing out all the best information to help the HUD contractor make
the fix. As some may recall I am on the verge of receiving a City of
Oceanside HUD grant which will repair this toilet and other things. My
concern about the grant is that the contractor might find it easier to just
tear out the commode and replace. Research through the groups suggest that
no one has successfully replaced the stock toilet with a newer model without
altering the fiberglass molded bench / tub. That is why I am going to such
lengths to aid the HUD contractor with information. I just know that this
old head can be preserved!
I am a full timer and will be living in my Toyota short bed truck during the
contractor's work. Boy am I glad it's summer :)
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen Waldo" <landyacht76@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Heads Down
> Same thing happened to us. It never seemed to get
> worse until the thing never shut off and I didn't
> realize it. It filled the tank and bathroom floor. The
> whole unit was worn out, mostly rusted and not
> repairable. We replaced it. That is hard to do also as
> the unit we had is no longer manufactured. I hope you
> don't run into the same difficulties that we did.
> Karen
> WDCU #8440
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:22:02 -0700
From: Tuna <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Tanks containing compressed gas can fail (read "explode") if they have been
exposed to extreme heat (like in a garage fire) or shock (bounced off
concrete from a height). Scuba tanks (about which i know something) must be
visually-inspected (for rust/corrosion inside) once per year; and
hydrostatically (pressure) tested every five years. Following the
hydrostatic test, the tank's 'shoulder' is stamped with the month/year of
that 'hydro'. If a tank doesn't pass inspection, it is 'condemned', and the
test facility is supposed to cut the bottom off the tank. They'll give it
back to you so you can salvage the valve. Different tanks for different
contents apparently have different visual and hydro requirements.
Extremes of heat and shock 'stress' a tank in ways that may not be
detectable by visual inspection. There have been a few notorious incidents
in which people have sent off scuba tanks to be powder-coated or enameled,
and were subjected to high heat in the process. The next time these tanks
were filled, some of them exploded - killing or dismembering the unfortunate
persons running the fill-station.
I would be extremely careful about doing anything to a compressed-gas tank
that might compromise it, including polishing an old, rusty or oxidized lpg
tank. "De-Rusto" makes a terrific 'rattle-can' spray paint in Aluminum color
that I've used to pretty-up some old lpg tanks.
Tuna
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:24:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Karen Waldo <landyacht76@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Heads Down
Bob,
I hadn't been online for about a week and after
replying I realized you got a better response from
others with the same year/model. Wayne Moore was one
of the people to respond. We have a '76 Tradewind.
After looking at your picture I realized that we don't
even have the same model of commode. We did do the cup
thing for quite a while until we found a replacement.
My father replaced the unit in his Globetrotter. But
he had to do extensive modifications to the toilet to
get it to fit as the old one did. It looks original
but took many hours and actual cutting of the plastic
toilet base.
Good luck,
Karen
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:38:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Rowbottom <shacksman@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Can anyone tell us what is the pressure in a propane
tank, when full.
I would like to know how big the bang can be if one
goes off.
Doug
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:46:10 -0400
From: Hoyt Oliver <hedgehog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Mystery Wood Object
Will someone please help me identify this stained but unfinished piece of
wood so I can use it as it's manufacturer intended. This piece is actually
two pieces screwed together with two hex head screws. The larger piece is 1
1/4 in. x 1 1/8 in. x 31 3/4 in. A channel has been routed out 1/2 in. x 5/8
in. leaving an L shaped piece with the 1 1/8 in side forming the base of the
L. To the outside of the L upright is screwed the smaller piece which is 1
1/4 in. x 3/8 in. x 31 3/4 in. Due to the way the two pieces are put
together a 6 3/4 in. extension is created causing the total length to become
38 1/2 in. The middle of the two pieces together before 6 3/4 in. extension
at either end is 1 1/2 in. x 1 1/4 in.
This piece has rested on the floor carpet underneath the kitchen sink
cabinet overhang since I purchased the unit two years ago. If you know about
cabinetry in the 1975 Land Yacht 25' version, I would greatly appreciate
some help. Thanks Hoyt
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:29:30 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Hi Ken. I forgot to mention, that turning the cooling unit upside down also
gets rid of most of the particles of rust that find their way into the burner
and orifice. But, as the saying goes, there is always an exception. Perhaps
yours was one of those. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:59:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Depends on temperature. Can be upwards of 100 PSI. Probably under 250
PSI.
I have a book in my office that has details if I can crawl over the
fallen piles to find it.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:37:05 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Jim. Polishing compounds usually have a very fine pumice, and that's why they
polish. Sandpaper on the other hand, cuts, and therefore is considered
abrasive, as it does not polish. To cut into an aluminum tank with sandpaper,
and then follow it up with a polish, will reduce the effective thickness of
the material. It is for that reason, that AGA says, No.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:06:13 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Doug Rowbottom wrote:
>Can anyone tell us what is the pressure in a propane
>tank, when full.
>I would like to know how big the bang can be if one
>goes off.
It varies with temperature, but normally it is around 150-175
psi. The relief valve on the tank is set at (IIRC) 350 psi.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:54:52 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Doug. It's not the big bang. It's a "FIRE BALL." Things being just right, if
a 5 gallon tank of LPG went off in the trunk of a large size car, it could
put the car on the roof of your house, provided you have a 2 story house. It
should be treated like a loaded cannon, always, no exceptions. Ask anyone who
didn't listen, that still may be alive.
Andy
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #317
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