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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, May 27, 2002 Issue 316
Today's Topics:
1. airstream on VW van chassis
2. Re: airstream on VW van chassis
3. Leaking galvanized water tank
4. Re: airstream on VW van chassis
5. Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
6. Water tank leaks
7. Polishing Aluminum Tanks
8. Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
9. Head's down here too
10. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
11. Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
12. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
13. Re: Dometic M16
14. Fridge not cooling!
15. Re: Bambi Tires
16. Re: Head's down
17. Re: Fridge not cooling!
18. Re: Fridge not cooling!
19. Re: Fridge not cooling!
20. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
21. Re: Fridge not cooling!
22. Re: water tank,relocate
23. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
24. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
25. Re: Fridge not cooling!
26. Solar Planner
27. Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
28. Re: Fridge not cooling!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 17:26:22 -0700
From: Susan Altstatt <dsa@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: airstream on VW van chassis
All;
Someone asked about airstream coaches on van chassis. I think this is a
cute one.
http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air1.jpg
http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air2.jpg
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 18:38:35 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: airstream on VW van chassis
Does anyone know if this vehicle is still in existence, and, if so, where?
~ Rik
Susan Altstatt wrote:
> All;
>
> Someone asked about airstream coaches on van chassis. I think this is a
> cute one.
>
> http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air1.jpg
>
> http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air2.jpg
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 23:24:51 -0400
From: "John O'Connor Truitt" <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Leaking galvanized water tank
Friends -
I have a 1963 Globetrotter - with a 15 gallon galvanized water tank up front. This morning I found the carpet and rugs soaked.
I strongly suspect the tank as I filled it and pressurized it yesterday. The trailer was tipped up and back - the rugs were soaked, carpet halfway back. and wet under the tank.
Question - what am I getting into trying to replace the tank? Do I want another galvanzied tank - are they available?
If I go to plastic can I use the same system - air pump or do I have to go to a flow pump.
If you have been thru this before - any leads/advice would be great!. Thank you.
Has anyone used the tanks from the grainger catalog?
John Truitt
Detroit, MI
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 23:24:16 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: airstream on VW van chassis
This may be the same VW/Airstream hybrid that I saw a pic of a year or two
ago. I believe that it was in Yellowstone...
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Altstatt" <dsa@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:26 AM
Subject: [VAC] airstream on VW van chassis
> All;
>
> Someone asked about airstream coaches on van chassis. I think this is a
> cute one.
>
>
> http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air1.jpg
>
> http://www.altstatt.com/~dsa/airstream/vw-air2.jpg
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:38:26 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
You get more water capacity with a flow pump than with an air pump. And
you don't have to put pressure on the tank. Of course, the flow pump
isn't original to your 1963 Globetrotter. Old galvanized tanks do tend
to fail with a large number of tiny holes rusted through.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:34:45 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Water tank leaks
on 05/26/02 11:24 PM, morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I have a 1963 Globetrotter - with a 15 gallon galvanized water tank up front.
> This morning I found the carpet and rugs soaked. I strongly suspect the tank
> as I filled it and pressurized it yesterday. The trailer was tipped up and
> back - the rugs were soaked, carpet halfway back. and wet under the tank.
> Question - what am I getting into trying to replace the tank? Do I want
> another galvanzied tank - are they available? If I go to plastic can I use the
> same system - air pump or do I have to go to a flow pump. If you have been
> thru this before - any leads/advice would be great!. Thank you. Has anyone
> used the tanks from the grainger catalog?
John,
Bite the bullet and go with a plastic tank and a new Shur-flo pump.
There are beaucoup places selling plastic tanks, so be picky about getting
the correct size. Some places will even make the tank to order (your size).
Once you've established who you'll buy from, be very specific about where
you want the plastic connectors and their size.
I went so far as to send my old tank to the company selling the new one just
to confirm that the tank they were going to send me would be fully usable
right out of the box (no modifications). That provided them with hard
evidence of what I wanted, what I needed and what I would pay for. And
that's what I got.
Secondly, while you're at it. If you don't have a sight tube whereby you can
see how much water is in your tank, now is the time to consider that. It can
make a difference in what you tell the company providing your new tank.
Only you can determine where you want the sight tube installed relative to
the area where your new tank will fit. Be sure to allow room enough for your
fingers to make the two connections once the tank is in place. I used two
pieces of short, flexible, plastic tubing to bridge the gaps.
Thirdly, you may find (as I did), that the new tank has a larger capacity
(more gallons) than the one being replaced. That's a fringe benefit.
Bottom line. Take your time, organize and plan in excruciating detail,
ignore it a couple of days before returning to see if it still makes sense.
Purchase every single rinky dinky part you'll need before you buy the tank,
so there'll be no need to scramble up a Rube Goldberg at the last minute.
Rehearse the exact order for installing the new tank. Nine tenths of this
job is head work.
You may want to look at Tom Patterson's 20,000+ archive postings sometime.
He has a slick search engine to simplify locating information.
Do what you teach/taught your kids to do. Apply a lot of attention to
detail, outline sequential organization and planning, give the job plenty of
thought before action and then relish in your success.
You'll be proud of your workmanship,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 23:48:04 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
I just picked up a 5 gallon (20 pound) aluminum propane tank at a
nautical swap meet. It has obviously been used on a boat -- the surface
feels smooth, but looks mottled. And there was some slight corrosion
under a label that I removed from the tank. My question is -- can I
wet-sand the tank (with maybe 400 paper) prior to polishing it, or will
that scratch it so badly that it can't be polished? If sanding isn't the
way to start, what is? Acid wash? I was talking to the folks at Iowa
Boys in N. Hollywood the other day, and they said they start every
trailer polish job with an acid wash. But I've heard others say that is
a bad idea.
I solicit your opinions!
Thanks very much,
Rik
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 07:10:48 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
Your problem sounds like a repeat of what I had last year with my 63 Globetrotter. Look at http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm to see what I did to fix the leaking tank. There's a
pix of the old tank and the new plastic tank. I used model 29W tank from All-Rite. It fit the same space as the round metal tank and is advertised as a 30 gallon tank. You have
to get somone locally to plastic weld ( RV dealer) the new fittings after you decide exactly where you want the fittings. I even was able to preserve the original brass filler in
the original location.
I did find a source for the round metal tank but would have had what I thought was a harder problem in getting someone to weld in the new fittings. Look at your old tank and how
Airstream installed the filler pipe. Also the metal tank was >$500 while the All Rite tank was $316 including shipping and expedited handling.
I used a Shur Flo Whisper King Model 2093 water pump to replace the air pump.
John O'Connor Truitt wrote:
> Friends -
> I have a 1963 Globetrotter - with a 15 gallon galvanized water tank up front. This morning I found the carpet and rugs soaked.
> I strongly suspect the tank as I filled it and pressurized it yesterday. The trailer was tipped up and back - the rugs were soaked, carpet halfway back. and wet under the tank.
> Question - what am I getting into trying to replace the tank? Do I want another galvanzied tank - are they available?
> If I go to plastic can I use the same system - air pump or do I have to go to a flow pump.
> If you have been thru this before - any leads/advice would be great!. Thank you.
> Has anyone used the tanks from the grainger catalog?
> John Truitt
> Detroit, MI
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 08:41:29 -0500
From: "Louis Joyner" <joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Head's down here too
The toilet in our '64 Overlander obviously didn't work when we bought it. I
was able to reach through the access door and bring it out with two good
jerks-the wax ring was all that was holding it. China part, inscribed
"Sani-Ware" is in good condition; cast aluminum valve assembly completely
corroded and missing major chunks. I do not want to think long and hard
about what it took for it to to be in that condition.
The question now is, what goes back? Is there a modern toilet that will fit
under the fiberglas bench and not require significant modifications? My
bathroom appears to be like Bob's, already the subject of much discussion.
Louis Joyner
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:49:19 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Rik, you will work yourself to death with 400 grit wet dry paper but it will
look very polished when you are finished. You may decide you don't want a
finer polish than 400 grit will give you.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik & Susan Beeson" <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:48
Subject: [VAC] Polishing Aluminum Tanks
> I just picked up a 5 gallon (20 pound) aluminum propane tank at a
> nautical swap meet. It has obviously been used on a boat -- the surface
> feels smooth, but looks mottled. And there was some slight corrosion
> under a label that I removed from the tank. My question is -- can I
> wet-sand the tank (with maybe 400 paper) prior to polishing it, or will
> that scratch it so badly that it can't be polished? If sanding isn't the
> way to start, what is? Acid wash? I was talking to the folks at Iowa
> Boys in N. Hollywood the other day, and they said they start every
> trailer polish job with an acid wash. But I've heard others say that is
> a bad idea.
>
> I solicit your opinions!
>
> Thanks very much,
>
> Rik
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:06:10 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
John, I would add that I would ask the manufacturer of the tank you buy if
they can attach the connections (inlet and outlet) in the desired locations
before the tank is shipped. If they can't do that for you, be sure to ask if
the fittings can be heat welded in locally. It depends on the type of
plastic used in making the tank. Some tanks have to have the fittings
installed using friction welding. Not every plastics fabricator is equipped
to do friction welding and on some tank materials only friction welding will
hold and not subsequently leak. Ask me how I know.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Spies" <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 8:10
Subject: [VAC] Re: Leaking galvanized water tank
> Your problem sounds like a repeat of what I had last year with my 63
Globetrotter. Look at http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm to see what I did
to fix the leaking tank. There's a
> pix of the old tank and the new plastic tank. I used model 29W tank from
All-Rite. It fit the same space as the round metal tank and is advertised as
a 30 gallon tank. You have
> to get somone locally to plastic weld ( RV dealer) the new fittings after
you decide exactly where you want the fittings. I even was able to preserve
the original brass filler in
> the original location.
>
> I did find a source for the round metal tank but would have had what I
thought was a harder problem in getting someone to weld in the new fittings.
Look at your old tank and how
> Airstream installed the filler pipe. Also the metal tank was >$500 while
the All Rite tank was $316 including shipping and expedited handling.
>
> I used a Shur Flo Whisper King Model 2093 water pump to replace the air
pump.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:02:21 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Here are a couple of comments on acid wash.
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/Postings2/Acidwashinglist.html
-Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik & Susan Beeson" <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 1:48 AM
Subject: [VAC] Polishing Aluminum Tanks
> I just picked up a 5 gallon (20 pound) aluminum propane tank at a
> nautical swap meet. It has obviously been used on a boat -- the surface
> feels smooth, but looks mottled. And there was some slight corrosion
> under a label that I removed from the tank. My question is -- can I
> wet-sand the tank (with maybe 400 paper) prior to polishing it, or will
> that scratch it so badly that it can't be polished? If sanding isn't the
> way to start, what is? Acid wash? I was talking to the folks at Iowa
> Boys in N. Hollywood the other day, and they said they start every
> trailer polish job with an acid wash. But I've heard others say that is
> a bad idea.
>
> I solicit your opinions!
>
> Thanks very much,
>
> Rik
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 08:37:51 -0700
From: Patrick Ewing <pre52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Dometic M16
Andy,
Around nine years ago I installed all new appliances in my 1961 Bambi. I just
wanted new & safe gas equipment, including a gas leak detecter, regulator &
tanks. Now I have new OPD tanks.
At that time I installed a new Dometic RM 2201 AC/DC/LPG refer. It fit nicely
over the little drawer and under the new counter top stove that was installed
at the same time. There was actually extra space as this new unit wasn't quite
as tall so I built a little "shelf" for it to sit on. Then I installed a nice
gold tone wire mesh screen under the fridge and above the drawer. This give a
bit more air circulation, which is good. The air circulation comes from this
grill and vents up and out in a vent in the counter behind the stove top. In
hot weather I open the rear access door just a little, ( there's a rear mounted
spare tire that it rests on), and the rear trailer window. This gives very good
air circulation around the refer.
To operate this model Dometic you need access to the back for the controls. My
Bambi came with the rear access door.My Bambi has the rare & cute little refer
gas exhaust vent from the factory. It was very easy to vent the gas burner to
this vent on the back of the trailer and under the rear window. I believe some
Bambis didn't have this door in the rear. With my factory access door I can
easily operate the fridge.
As far as I'm concerned I'd go just with 110/gas and forget about the 12 volt
part as the DC uses too much power. During travel time during the days it stays
cold if it is opened very little at lunch time.
When mounting the fridge I made sure the trailer was very level by using a
regular builder's level on the trailer floor. Then I made sure the platform for
the new refer was as level as possible. This means that now when parking and I
level the trailer by the little bubble level in the Dometic that the rest of
the trailer matches and is level as well.
This little Dometic was popular for use in tent trailers at the time. I've been
very pleased with this unit.
Pat
Andy Robinowitz wrote:
> I hear the Dometic 2410 fits in nicely. Anyone out there replace a Dometic
> M16 with a 2410?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:49:44 -0500
From: "Dana Kelley" <jckelley@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Fridge not cooling!
On our last trip (2 wks ago), the fridge stopped cooling, so we continue on
as planned with blocks of ice. We've had AS for 2 yrs now and have made 3
long trips and no problem with fridge, in fact it was always too cold. It
is a RM75 out of a 73 Overlander. We didn't know to keep it plugged in
while at home so this time it hasn't been plugged in for 10 months. (Have
had to learn several things the hard way.) Along the way several people
have told us to just turn it upside for 24 hrs to burp it. We can't figure
out how to slide it out. We can't find any screws holding it in. The only
places we see for screws are on front with little white caps in the hole
but after removed see no screws. There are wood spacers on each side held in
place with screws, which we have removed & it still seems stuck in place.
Nothing in the back holding it either.
We'd appreciate any suggestions on whether this burping will help and on how
to remove the unit.
Thanks,
DSK in TEXAS
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:26:11 -0700
From: Patrick Ewing <pre52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Bambi Tires
Dick,
On my 1961 Bambi I have converted over to a 14 inch wheel with aluminum mags.
It looks pretty good and usually 14" gives more load range than 13" tires.
On my trailer, and a number of Airstreams, one wheel well is tighter than the
other. One needs to be very careful about tire clearance. For the last seven
years I've been running Toyo Z-800 plus (They are now Unltras) radial tires.
The size that works for me is P185/75R14. I don't recall the load range
rating. They are rated at 1,290 lbs per tire. That is 2,580 lbs total on the
axle. With the few hundred lbs on the hitch this gives good extra for weight
as dry the trailer is around 1,850 lbs. When fitting tires in a limited area
the offset of the wheel is very important.
I've towed through hot desert at freeway speeds, traveled during very windy
conditions, and have been on some very rough out back roads (carefully). These
tires have been used for many miles with no troubles at all. My spare tire is
still unused, ...... though I check the pressure in it to keep it ready just
in case. One friend, an Argosy owner, says I have too good of tire for the
little Bambi. EXACTLY, ................ on a single axle trailer I want the
best I can get. Besides, ......... there are only two to buy!! (:
Pat
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> All this tire talk has me wondering. What is the correct size and load
> range tire for a 1962 Bambi? Ours has radial ST 175/80 R-13 Load range C.
> It appears to me a larger profile tire would fit in the wheel well. Is a
> load range of C correct for these relatively small and light trailers?
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:14:18 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Head's down
Dear Louis,
They say misery loves company. It's good to know that someone else has
the same problem. Now we can be a "movement" :) After cleaning my valve
track the bowl began to hold water. No slow leak at present. So I got
adventurous and turned the water valve to the toilet back on, but at very
low pressure. Things seemed OK for about a day and and then I noticed water
leaking into the bathroom from the rear.
Ran around back and found tiny drips coming down the plastic hoses that are
high up on the back of the unit. Hoping someone has experience refurbishing
the Thetford internal tubing.
Barring a fix I am still standing with you in wonderment that there appears
to be no replacement for the stock toilet that will not destroy the back
fiberglass bench.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Joyner" <joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAC] Head's down here too
> The toilet in our '64 Overlander obviously didn't work when we bought it.
I
> was able to reach through the access door and bring it out with two good
> jerks-the wax ring was all that was holding it. China part, inscribed
> "Sani-Ware" is in good condition; cast aluminum valve assembly completely
> corroded and missing major chunks. I do not want to think long and hard
> about what it took for it to to be in that condition.
>
> The question now is, what goes back? Is there a modern toilet that will
fit
> under the fiberglas bench and not require significant modifications? My
> bathroom appears to be like Bob's, already the subject of much discussion.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 13:49:01 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Dana Kelley wrote:
>On our last trip (2 wks ago), the fridge stopped cooling, so we continue on
>as planned with blocks of ice.
<<..>>
>Along the way several people
>have told us to just turn it upside for 24 hrs to burp it. We can't figure
>out how to slide it out. We can't find any screws holding it in.
<<..>>
I believe that you have to remove the wall partition next to
the refrigerator, plus, you will find screws in the cupboards on the
oposite side of the wall going into the side of the refrigerator.
Once the wall is out, you should find a couple of sheet metal
anchors screwed both to the refrigerator and the wall- plus a couple
of screws in the back going in to the floor.
It sounds far more difficult than it really is.
I'm not a big fan of burping, as I believe when it *does*
work, it will be temporary, but it is certainly worth a try.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:52:59 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Before burping its a good test to be sure the electric and propane heat
is getting to the works. Burping won't do anything for failures in those
areas.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: 27 May 2002 12:35:10 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
At a recent rally, I discussed "burping" the older Dometics with some of
the old-timers. They seemed to be pretty fond of the procedure.
Rob Davis
'64 GT
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:03:22 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Rik. Sanding any aluminum LPG tank is not recommended. An acid bath for the
tanks is dangerous. Defacing the surface of any aluminum LPG tank requires
that it be replaced, as per the American Gas Association, as it weakens the
tank. Small gouges from rocks, require that the tank be replaced, again by
AGA.
An acid bath to the shell is an absolute guarantee, of more water leaks over
a period of time, than you have time to count. An Airstream shell is not the
same as a truck body. For that matter, if a truck-trailer body leaks, who
cares.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:08:19 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Have you cleaned the burner and orifice? Also make sure you have between 11
and 13 inches of water column pressure in your LPG system.
Burping is an "OLD WIFE'S TALE." Never heard of any success to that ritual in
my 36 years.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 13:28:20 -0600
From: Jere Potter <potterjrp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: water tank,relocate
on 5/27/02 6:10 AM, Herb Spies at spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Your problem sounds like a repeat of what I had last year with my 63
> Globetrotter. Look at http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm to see what I did
> to fix the leaking tank.
Herb- I have looked at your excellent website before, but now with more
interest, as I will be replacing my water tank on a '64 Globetrotter. Old
one was beside the wheel well, and could not be fixed. Now I want to put
the new tank up front under a new bed to be built, and a streetside dinette
opposite the galley. The wheel well will be partially in the way. But, my
question is, Was your filler up front with the tank? Mine is on the side,
byt the furnace vent & access hatch. I don't want to put a new hole in the
front if I don't have to, but I don't want an odd-looking filler pipe out
visible where it runs to the front tank. Any Suggestions from anybody on the
list? Logic tells me that the bed should be streetside, where it was, with
tank underneath, but I don't like waking up in the galley.
Jere Potter #1877
Fort Collins, CO
'64 Safari
'64 Globetrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 27 May 02 13:43:16 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
I would suggest try using a 1000 grit paper first and see what that will
do. If not doing the job drop to 800 and then to 600 and lastly to 400
if necessary. Polishing aluminum is simply a process of removing
scratches produced by the polishing material (be it grit paper or polish)
and the finer the scratches the easier it is reach the final polishing
stage . I have used 400, 600, 1000 and 1500 on my unit and found the 400
cut to deeply and spent to much time getting the sanding marks out. I
now start at 600 then go to 1000 then use Rolite Prepolish, Metal Polish,
and AP300 (in that order) for touch up scratches I "acquire" on the
trailer skin. However, your tanks are probably have harder finish then
trailer skin so they may need more grit. Good luck.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 13:25:35 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
Rik,,
It's funny that most of the beautiful Airstream restorations have a shiny
set of aluminum tanks up front. The list used to even talk about how to get
that high sheen onto the LP tanks. What's changed?!
I believe we are now firmly in a new age where fear of litigation dominates
all activity. Call it convenience, call it fear, call it greed . . . most
businesses now prescribe to the politics of insurance. How many times per
week do we hear this or that mechanic or merchant tell us that they no
longer perform some service because they can't get the insurance. (Trailer
hitches are an example)
Naturally the American Gas Association is going to prescribe every measure
they can think of, to cover their behinds.
Why not do a test polish on the under side of your tank by hand sanding with
your 400 grit paper. If it appears to you to be too much work, than leave
it alone. On the other hand, if it comes lustrous than you know what to do.
I'm not worried about telling you this because I have nothing to be sued
over. They took all my stuff years ago. Then I saw the light shining off
those beautiful LP Gas cylinders :(
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
> Rik. Sanding any aluminum LPG tank is not recommended. An acid bath for
the
> tanks is dangerous. Defacing the surface of any aluminum LPG tank requires
> that it be replaced, as per the American Gas Association, as it weakens
the
> tank. Small gouges from rocks, require that the tank be replaced, again by
> AGA.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:29:05 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Dana, what model Airstream do you have? Where is the fridge located? On my '
68 Tradewind there is a bulkhead next to the Dometic and there are screws in
the bulkhead that go into the side of the fridge. Also, there was an angle
iron screwed to the top side of the fridge compartment and into the top edge
of the fridge. I assume you have disconnected the gas line.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Kelley" <jckelley@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:49
Subject: [VAC] Fridge not cooling!
> On our last trip (2 wks ago), the fridge stopped cooling, so we continue
on
> as planned with blocks of ice. We've had AS for 2 yrs now and have made 3
> long trips and no problem with fridge, in fact it was always too cold. It
> is a RM75 out of a 73 Overlander. We didn't know to keep it plugged in
> while at home so this time it hasn't been plugged in for 10 months. (Have
> had to learn several things the hard way.) Along the way several people
> have told us to just turn it upside for 24 hrs to burp it. We can't
figure
> out how to slide it out. We can't find any screws holding it in. The
only
> places we see for screws are on front with little white caps in the hole
> but after removed see no screws. There are wood spacers on each side held
in
> place with screws, which we have removed & it still seems stuck in place.
> Nothing in the back holding it either.
> We'd appreciate any suggestions on whether this burping will help and on
how
> to remove the unit.
> Thanks,
> DSK in TEXAS
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:35:57 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Solar Planner
Hi Vintage Airstream Club Friends,
If anyone would like a free solar planner and annual catalog from RV Solar
Electric, now is the time to call them. Two days ago, we received our notice
of its impending distribution.
Another sentence in the notice was "Have us send a copy to another RV
owner." That could be any VAC member who calls the 800 number (800.999.8520)
and provides their name and address.
With many campgrounds charging us for an electric hookup last Winter, this
is another benefit of being electric independent (except for high energy
draw items).
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 13:10:00 -0600
From: "Airstream" <airstream@insideout-design.net>
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Polishing Aluminum Tanks
> Defacing the surface of any aluminum LPG tank requires
> that it be replaced, as per the American Gas Association, as it weakens
the
> tank.
Andy -
Does this apply to polishing the tank with a cyclo polisher as well?
Shari
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:51:14 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge not cooling!
Andy
Count me as your first.....
Ken Johansen
5358
At 03:08 PM 5/27/02 EDT, you wrote:
>Have you cleaned the burner and orifice? Also make sure you have between 11
>and 13 inches of water column pressure in your LPG system.
>Burping is an "OLD WIFE'S TALE." Never heard of any success to that ritual
in
>my 36 years.
>
>Andy
>inlandrv.com
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
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