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VACList-Digest Tuesday, April 30, 2002 Issue 289
Today's Topics:
1. Another electrical question
2. Airstream books and other novelty items
3. Re: Another electrical question
4. Refrigerator Repair
5. Re: Another electrical question
6. More Generator Questions
7. Re: More Generator Questions
8. Re: Another electrical question
9. Re: More Generator Questions
10. Refrig Door Repair
11. Re: Another electrical question
12. Re: Refrig Door Repair
13. Re: Another electrical question
14. Re: Another electrical question
15. Re: Refrig Door Repair
16. 56 Airstream
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:18:01 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Another electrical question
Hey you electricians, I have another one to run by you. Insead of replacing
the outside outlet for shore power, what if I get a 30 amp line and run it
into the fuse box. There is room in the little compartment that the fuse box
is in to handle a 20' cord. I have only a 15 amp cord and outlet now and will
need the extra amps for a fridge and AC. This avenue would bypass buying a
$30-$40 outlet and a 30 amp shore power cord for $?
I was advised to do this by a local RV shop but wanted some input from
those familiar with the Airstream.
Thanks.
Jerry
57 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:15:25 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Airstream books and other novelty items
I don't know if this is supposed to be a well kept secret?? but the Robert
Landau and James Philippi book
as well as several other airstream novelty items are available direct from
airstream for more reasonable prices than eBay. The book reads a bit like
an Airstream Ad.
http://www.airstream.com/merchandise.htm
I ordered the book, teapot and some other items by phone about six months
ago and they came right way. I don't know if they still have these are not
but they are still listed on their website.
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
silvaire@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:38:59 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jerry,
I'm unsure of exactly what you want to do. It sounds like you're
thinking of attaching a 20' pigtail in your [house] fuse box, something
that has a 30 Amp RV-style female socket on the end. Then, you'd just
plug in the shore power cord.
That'll work.
Or do you mean to attach a 20' pigtail to the fuse box in the AirStream?
That's what you SHOULD have now, and it should have a 30-amp RV-style
male plug on the end. That would plug in to either an RV-style
receptacle on the outside of your house or a pigtail as in paragraph #1.
All cords must be 10/3, of course.
Can you clarify?
<<Jim>>
Jerry Jarrell wrote:
> Hey you electricians, I have another one to run by you. Insead of replacing
> the outside outlet for shore power, what if I get a 30 amp line and run it
> into the fuse box. There is room in the little compartment that the fuse box
> is in to handle a 20' cord. I have only a 15 amp cord and outlet now and will
> need the extra amps for a fridge and AC. This avenue would bypass buying a
> $30-$40 outlet and a 30 amp shore power cord for $?
> I was advised to do this by a local RV shop but wanted some input from
> those familiar with the Airstream.
> Thanks.
> Jerry
> 57 Overlander
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:47:36 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Refrigerator Repair
on 04/29/02 7:06 PM, list@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> but most later model replacement gaskets attach with double sided foam
> tape- you cut the original off with a razor.
>
> A warning- Dometic gaskets are expensive (probably over $100
> for the set)- you might measure and try a place that sells appliance
> repair parts to see if you can get a generic replacement.
Thanks Chris,
You just answered a question I didn't realize I wanted to ask.
Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:38:00 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jerry,
If you are going to fuse it with a 30 amp breaker, you will still need a 30 amp
cable to go from the panel to the trailer, no matter how you do it. The cable
will be a number 10-2 AWG w/ ground. (AWG = American Wire Gauge) May also be
called 10-3 if you run rubber cord. Direct burial cable and a permanent outlet
box will probably be less expensive and last longer than just having a rubber
cord left to the elements on the ground. Good rubber cord in that size will
probably cost close to $2.00/ft, and you don't want cheap stuff or it will
deteriorate in a season. After the cost of the cord, you will still have to put
an end (cord body) on it which will be an additional expense. The only place
I've found RV type cord end connectors has been in an RV dealership, most
electrical supply houses don't carry and can't be bothered to find, them. RV
places ain't as cheap as the thrift shop either.
Your call, do the math and see which works better. But remember if it's
electrical it is best done properly. The stuff can bite!
Matt
Jerry Jarrell wrote:
> Hey you electricians, I have another one to run by you. Insead of replacing
> the outside outlet for shore power, what if I get a 30 amp line and run it
> into the fuse box. There is room in the little compartment that the fuse box
> is in to handle a 20' cord. I have only a 15 amp cord and outlet now and will
> need the extra amps for a fridge and AC. This avenue would bypass buying a
> $30-$40 outlet and a 30 amp shore power cord for $?
> I was advised to do this by a local RV shop but wanted some input from
> those familiar with the Airstream.
> Thanks.
> Jerry
> 57 Overlander
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
2000 F-350 PSD
Hensley Arrow
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 19:46:15 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: More Generator Questions
I've got one of those noisy colemans. It was on sale a couple of years ago
and I picked it up as a power source for my airstream while it was parked in
a storage lot. I tried to use it camping last winter and couldn't stand the
noise. Is there a quiet kit or something I can make to cut the sound?
Couldn't find anything on the coleman site.
Thanks in advance
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
Roger Hightower
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 5:23 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Generator Questions
Jamie,
If you want to run your A/C, you going to need 3 KW or more. That little
Coleman won't do it, and it's too noisy besides. Check out the Honda line
of quiet generators.
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:02:23 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: More Generator Questions
Pete, an Onan muffler used in motor homes would probably help but they are
very pricey. Surely there is a less expensive solution. Jim Smith put his
generator in a box he built with forced air ventilation to deaden the sound.
He has an all electric Airstream -- no gas at all.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 21:46
Subject: [VAC] More Generator Questions
> I've got one of those noisy colemans. It was on sale a couple of years
ago
> and I picked it up as a power source for my airstream while it was parked
in
> a storage lot. I tried to use it camping last winter and couldn't stand
the
> noise. Is there a quiet kit or something I can make to cut the sound?
> Couldn't find anything on the coleman site.
> Thanks in advance
> Pete
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:51:07 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jim Dunmyer wrote:
> Jerry,
> I'm unsure of exactly what you want to do.
> Or do you mean to attach a 20' pigtail to the fuse box in the AirStream?
> That's what you SHOULD have now, and it should have a 30-amp RV-style
> male plug on the end. That would plug in to either an RV-style
> receptacle on the outside of your house or a pigtail as in paragraph #1.
>
> Can you clarify?
>
> <<Jim>>
>
Jim, not being very electrical minded I have a hard time explaining the situation
but you did in the above. I took the old male recepticle that was on the outside of
the trailer out and tried to put a 15 amp one back because it had a cover on it and
thinking all was the same amps. I shorted that one out! Took it out and now want to
go thru the wall from the outside to the "fuse" box (not a modern breaker box) and
tie into it inside the trailer. I was advised to anchor the fusebox end of the 20'
pigtail to the wall so no stress would be put on the fusebox connection when the
pigtail was in use. I have (5) 15 amp fuses and one 30 so I guess there was 30 amps
run in to the trailer in the begining as it has an electric water heater.Hope this
doesn't muddy the water any more!
Jerry
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:01:38 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: More Generator Questions
Pete, try this site
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstore/nojava/showprod.cfm?ID=1254&refid=A7B30B0D%2DE33D%2D4032%2DA7EBECEE308D7486
at RV Parts Outlet. RV Parts Outlet - The LOWEST RV Parts and Accessories on
the Internet! It is pricy but might be what you can use.
Jerry
Pete Ryner wrote:
> I've got one of those noisy colemans. It was on sale a couple of years ago
> and I picked it up as a power source for my airstream while it was parked in
> a storage lot. I tried to use it camping last winter and couldn't stand the
> noise. Is there a quiet kit or something I can make to cut the sound?
> Couldn't find anything on the coleman site.
> Thanks in advance
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]On Behalf Of
> Roger Hightower
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 5:23 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Generator Questions
>
> Jamie,
>
> If you want to run your A/C, you going to need 3 KW or more. That little
> Coleman won't do it, and it's too noisy besides. Check out the Honda line
> of quiet generators.
>
> Roger Hightower, N7KT
> WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
> 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
> Mesa, AZ
> mailto:n7kt@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:27:21 -0400
From: Hoyt Oliver <hedgehog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Refrig Door Repair
Dear Chris:
Thanks for your help with my gasket problem. My refrig is the RM 77
model. Taking off the original gasket is still a mystery. One guy said to
take the four nylon hinge receptacles off the door and the aluminum band
around the outside perimeter would just slide off releasing the gasket. I
haven't had time to do that but I did take one off the door prior to this
episode and nothing was revealed. I think I would rather have a gasket in
hand which will obviously go on with double-sided tape before I take a razor
to the original. There must be specialty stores that sell this kind of thing
but I haven't found one in my North Georgia Woods. Any one have any
suggestions? I'm traveling next couple of days but will be back Wed.
evening.
Thanks for your help,
Hoyt Oliver
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:53:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jerry, what you describe is the way my Caravel is wired. But I'm
changing it to a plug in a covered receptacle box some day. Just what
you want to take out. I'm doing that because the cable up the Thetford
fitting makes a runway for mice that would love the interior of the
walls and the groceries and the cushions. They ate holes in the wooden
walls of my SOB sitting with the cable plugged in all the time. I want
to avoid that with my Caravel. I think that saving a few bucks (probably
$15 for the recessed 30 amp twist lock plug, $10 for the box, $12 for
the cover, and maybe $20 or 25 for the twist lock receptacle (but I
found one surplus) to me seem cheap compared to cohabiting with mice.
The standard procedure is to use the 30 amp plug and plug that into an
RV 30 amp outlet, though if the loads are limited, it can be plugged
into a 20 amp or a 15 amp receptacle with an adapter that is standard
equipment in all RV stores (and Walmart RV department).
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:44:29 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <canerods@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Refrig Door Repair
Hoyt,
Try Richard Rodrigues. He advertises on the VAC Classifieds all the time for
window and door replacement rubber. I've bought from him and I recommend his
products. If you could provide him a digital picture of the cross-section,
maybe through his suppliers he could find some. Just a thought. His phone
number is 562.869.0457 and hisemail is 'putzrs@xxxxxxxxxx.com'. Hope this helps.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
#2699, VAC, TCT
>
> Dear Chris:
> Thanks for your help with my gasket problem. My refrig is the RM 77
> model. Taking off the original gasket is still a mystery. One guy said to
> take the four nylon hinge receptacles off the door and the aluminum band
> around the outside perimeter would just slide off releasing the gasket. I
> haven't had time to do that but I did take one off the door prior to this
> episode and nothing was revealed. I think I would rather have a gasket in
> hand which will obviously go on with double-sided tape before I take a razor
> to the original. There must be specialty stores that sell this kind of thing
> but I haven't found one in my North Georgia Woods. Any one have any
> suggestions? I'm traveling next couple of days but will be back Wed.
> evening.
> Thanks for your help,
> Hoyt Oliver
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 08:09:07 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jerry,
It sounds like you have a "bulkhead connector" on your trailer. Most
units today don't use them, just hardwiring the cord to the fuse or
breaker box.
If that's what you want to do, just get a pigtail w/plug from an RV
place and connect it to the fuse box. The pigtail will be 10-3 cord, and
you need to be certain to connect it properly. The white wire will go to
the "neutral" connection (a buss bar with other white wires on it), the
black will probably go to the 30-amp fuse, which is probably a main
fuse, the green will go to ground. Do NOT connect the neutral wire to
ground in any way!
And your advice was correct about anchoring the cord inside the trailer.
You don't want someone's tripping on the cord to yank it out of the fuse
box!
<<Jim>>
Jerry Jarrell wrote:
>
> Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
>
>>Jerry,
>> I'm unsure of exactly what you want to do.
>>
>
>>Or do you mean to attach a 20' pigtail to the fuse box in the AirStream?
>>That's what you SHOULD have now, and it should have a 30-amp RV-style
>>male plug on the end. That would plug in to either an RV-style
>>receptacle on the outside of your house or a pigtail as in paragraph #1.
>>
>>Can you clarify?
>>
>> <<Jim>>
>>
>
> Jim, not being very electrical minded I have a hard time explaining the situation
> but you did in the above. I took the old male recepticle that was on the outside of
> the trailer out and tried to put a 15 amp one back because it had a cover on it and
> thinking all was the same amps. I shorted that one out! Took it out and now want to
> go thru the wall from the outside to the "fuse" box (not a modern breaker box) and
> tie into it inside the trailer. I was advised to anchor the fusebox end of the 20'
> pigtail to the wall so no stress would be put on the fusebox connection when the
> pigtail was in use. I have (5) 15 amp fuses and one 30 so I guess there was 30 amps
> run in to the trailer in the begining as it has an electric water heater.Hope this
> doesn't muddy the water any more!
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:52:24 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Another electrical question
Jerry. There are 30 amp 36 foot cords available. That would solve the entire
problem. Get rid of the old set up. An Airstream dealer that knows the
vintage coaches can help you. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:11:19 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Refrig Door Repair
Hoyt, have you checked out the Sears repair parts for a suitable gasket. You
should be able to order something that would work. There are appliance parts
places in Atlanta if you get down this way.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hoyt Oliver" <hedgehog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 23:27
Subject: [VAC] Refrig Door Repair
> Dear Chris:
> Thanks for your help with my gasket problem. My refrig is the RM 77
> model. Taking off the original gasket is still a mystery. One guy said to
> take the four nylon hinge receptacles off the door and the aluminum band
> around the outside perimeter would just slide off releasing the gasket. I
> haven't had time to do that but I did take one off the door prior to this
> episode and nothing was revealed. I think I would rather have a gasket in
> hand which will obviously go on with double-sided tape before I take a
razor
> to the original. There must be specialty stores that sell this kind of
thing
> but I haven't found one in my North Georgia Woods. Any one have any
> suggestions? I'm traveling next couple of days but will be back Wed.
> evening.
> Thanks for your help,
> Hoyt Oliver
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:56:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Johm O'Cain" <tanhof2k@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 56 Airstream
Brad:
Thanks for the continued "detective" work. I received
a bit of information from Airstream. Thought you might
find it helpful. I do wish I could identify that
equalizer hitch.
J O H N
Rod Walters is a "tech guy" at the Airstream factory.
I sent him the same package of photos as I sent to
you.
Dear Mr., O'Cain Looking at this it does appear to be
a 1956 or 57 trailer the hitch is original except for
the brackets welded on to the sides of tongue that
have the weight distribution brackets on them . The
contraption on top of the coupler is the brake
actuator this trailer did not have electric brakes on
it . I do not have any type of manuals or literature
but you may go online to the airstream vintage site
and someone there may be able to assist you. Rod--
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #289
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