The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList-Digest Tuesday, April 23, 2002 Issue 282
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Down the road...
2. Re: Calcium deposits
3. TOYOTA PU PULLER
4. Re: Tire Removal
5. Calcium deposits
6. Re: Calcium deposits
7. Re:
8. Re: Vintage Airstream HEHR Aluminum Vent Cover
9. Re: Calcium deposits
10. Bowen water heater
11. Re: Bowen water heater
12. Re: Looking for Beatrice Parts?
13. Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
14. Re: Calcium deposits
15. Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
16. Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
17. Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
18. Airstream Lower Window Latch
19. Re: Calcium deposits
20. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
21. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
22. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
23. Removing tail light fixture
24. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
25. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:19:11 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Down the road...
Way to go Ted! Great to be "ready for the road" isn't it?
Why don't you guys plan on coming to the Outer Banks vintage rally in
August? Should be a great rally and it's a great location. I'd like to see
your handiwork.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Byrd" <tbyrd@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 3:36
Subject: [VAC] Down the road...
> Greetings everyone,
>
> After working 10-16 hours per day, 7 days a week, every single week
> since the end of January, and spending several thousand scarce dollars,
> our poor old Overlander is FINALLY road ready. I'd like to thank
> everyone for being here, providing help, advice, and moral support. It's
> been a long haul, and it wouldn't have happened without you folks. We'll
> soon be taking the WBCCI up on their free one year membership, joining
> the VAC, and I look forward to meeting up with fellow vintage owners at
> some of the rallies. I'll have beer chilling for you in the fridge. ;)
>
> --
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:28:22 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Calcium deposits
Bob,
Atwood, the current manufacturer of the post '68 Bowen style water heater
recommends an annual blowout of the water heater. Their method involves
attaching an air fitting to the city water inlet, applying clean 40-50 PSI air
and blowing the water of the heater. They say the scavenging action of the air
bubbles will clear the calcium buildup. We do that as part of our winterizing.
Charlie
My Airstream wrote:
> A local repair guy checked my hot water problem and removed one of the 1/2
> copper lines that attach to the heater. He ascertained that the mineral
> (calcium) buildup was in the tank, which needed to be replaced. His
> assessment peaked my curiosity so I turned off the gas and let the tank
> cool.
>
> Then I disconnected the output pipe and sure enough there was thick white
> stuff plugging the hole in the tank. I checked with my neighbor who used to
> be a plumbing contractor about the nature of H20 tanks. I asked whether
> they were just big pots or had internal chambers like a battery. He said
> that they were just big pots. I borrowed an ice pick and attempted to
> penetrate the calcium deposit. This stuff was thick (4") and tough like
> hardened plastic. I finally got through and then I got out my drill and a
> Big bit to rout a larger hole. It became obvious that the heater would have
> to be replaced soon, but when I put the plumbing back together the flow had
> doubled so I can at least take a shower while I am waiting for the new
> heater.
>
> My neigbor recommended that any hot water heater be drained and flushed with
> an anti-calcium agent annually. And so it goes.
> Bob
> Oceanside
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:43:54 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <theprofileco@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: TOYOTA PU PULLER
Bob:
Sounds pretty traumatic to me! Glad you're back on your feet.
If you're going to beef up the Toyota rear end, you might just see whether
you could pull a duelly axle from a junked toyota pickup. That would give
you loads of capacity, plenty of traction and stability, and probably a
lower gear ratio as well. Of course, then you'd need the oversized fenders,
too, and if the junkyard rig had a good six cylinder engine in it . . .
I attach below some discussion of cork floors, including some urls, that
appeared on the list while you were off doing double spirals!
Dan
------
From: Charcigar <stogie@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
After much debate,I decided to lay cork in my '67 Safari.I elected to go
with it for several reasons.....light weight,durability,moisture
repellant,warmth etc.and something I could install myself.I just put it down
this past Monday and couldn't be happier with the result.I have never laid
any type of flooring before,so was somewhat nervous about botching
it.....but I found it to be quite simple and am super pleased with the
result.
I also decided to lay the unfinished cork and applied the urethane
myself(rather than the pre-finished tiles one can also buy)...this way,I get
a completely sealed floor.I also chose the planks(about 4" wide by 24"
long)with a micro-beveled edge....cost a little bit more,but worth
it,especially given length-look of our trailers.(i.e.,not a square shape).
I am in Canada and located a great source for the product....let me know if
you need it.....but odds are you are in the US,and someone else will be able
to provide you with a supplier there.
Charlotte
P.S. Will have some photos of it available on Monday.Let me know if you
would like to view them.
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
I installed a cork floor last fall,it was not a terrible thing, I fact I
liked it. Surface prep is the hardest.
Once it is sealed, you can sweep, vacuum or even mop it.
It is insulating, warm and resliant under foot, a renewable resource (
the trees don't died). It is flexible so will not crack as trailer
flexes, and comes in a variety of colors ( stains really) My parents
have had a cork floor in their kitchen for 30 years of utter neglect and
torture and it still looks great. More expensived than pergo or vinyl.
Go see:
http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/airstream3.html
and go to the floor story
Daisy
From: "Louis Joyner" <joyner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: ork flooring
Cork tiles make a great floor. We have now installed it in two houses.
Whether to go with prefinished or unfinished depends on your standards and
skill. Unfinished tiles lightly sanded after installation and finished with
polyurethane make a very smooth, tight floor, and are what I would recommend
for a trailer where there is a good chance of the floor getting pretty wet.
Prefinished tiles cannot achieve the monolithic look that field-finished
tiles can have, but can be field-finished for additional water resistance.
Waxed cork is the nicest looking and underfoot, but requires more
maintenance. Either way makes an institutional-grade floor that can be
installed by a moderatly skilled person. Cork is more forgiving than VCT
during installation, but the subfloor needs good prep work.
Water on all floors is an issue these days as modern adhesives are not as
water resistant as the old "cut back" adhesives were. The price we pay for
volatile organic compounds compliance.
Good sources for high quality cork tile are Expanko and Dodge Regupol, both
in PA, and both with web sites. My perception is that Dodge Regupol's tile
is denser and of higher quality. Expanko has a greater variety of styles.
Expect to pay $3-4/s.f. for tile alone.
If finished with polyurethane, just clean with a damp (not soaking) mop,
warm water, and white vinegar. No wax if you want to stay on your feet.
Louis Joyner
'64 Overlander
> From: VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:03:56 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> I will probably also beef up the rear suspension so
> I can take any heavy things out of the Airstream and put them in the truck
> bed for optimum weight distribution.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:17:36 -0500
From: "Charlie Gunkel" <cmgunkel@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal
I saw one of those devices, and when I used it I crimped the gas line
---cost me a few dollars to repair--it would have severed it if I hadn't
had my wife stop pulling forward on my 77 sovereign. Had tried to use
it on my previous 65 sovereign and ended up creasing the underside. I
won't be using mine for that purpose any more. Be careful.
Cheers
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hardman=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 6:35 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire Removal
I was able to jack the trailer by placing a screw type jack at the
frame just behind the rear wheel. But I am going to get one of those
devices that you pull one wheel on to raise the other. Thanks for the
help.
I need to take one of my tires of, it has a slow leak. How do you
jack up a 1976 31' Sovereign? The manual says there is a label on the
frame to rear of the tire(s). I did not see one.
Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:57:08 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Calcium deposits
OFF LIST
I have had good luck using a gallon or two of white vinegar to loosen calcium
deposits. Put it in, let it soak overnight, flush it out good. You may have to
repeat, depending on how much is in there, you you DON'T need to buy a new tank,
IMHO.
Best regards,
Rik
My Airstream wrote:
> A local repair guy checked my hot water problem and removed one of the 1/2
> copper lines that attach to the heater. He ascertained that the mineral
> (calcium) buildup was in the tank, which needed to be replaced. His
> assessment peaked my curiosity so I turned off the gas and let the tank
> cool.
>
> Then I disconnected the output pipe and sure enough there was thick white
> stuff plugging the hole in the tank. I checked with my neighbor who used to
> be a plumbing contractor about the nature of H20 tanks. I asked whether
> they were just big pots or had internal chambers like a battery. He said
> that they were just big pots. I borrowed an ice pick and attempted to
> penetrate the calcium deposit. This stuff was thick (4") and tough like
> hardened plastic. I finally got through and then I got out my drill and a
> Big bit to rout a larger hole. It became obvious that the heater would have
> to be replaced soon, but when I put the plumbing back together the flow had
> doubled so I can at least take a shower while I am waiting for the new
> heater.
>
> My neigbor recommended that any hot water heater be drained and flushed with
> an anti-calcium agent annually. And so it goes.
> Bob
> Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:13:55 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Calcium deposits
Will see if I can find the adapter needed to get from air compressor hose to
garden hose. Then I'll have to rent an air compressor. My only concern is
whether my 66 Safari water heater is too far gone to be saved by this
procedure.
Bob
Subject: [VAC] Re: Calcium deposits
> Bob,
>
> Atwood, the current manufacturer of the post '68 Bowen style water heater
> recommends an annual blowout of the water heater. Their method involves
> attaching an air fitting to the city water inlet, applying clean 40-50 PSI
air
> and blowing the water of the heater. They say the scavenging action of the
air
> bubbles will clear the calcium buildup.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 02:18:57 EDT
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re:
Hello,
Imagine our suprise to find the correct replacement switch for our '65 Trade
Wind Twin's overhead lights on the shelf at Dixieline Lumber in Solana Beach,
Ca! We had 2 of the 4 lights not functioning too well and since we replaced
the switches they work great! For the first time all the lights are
functional! We put on the new very white lenses we got from InlandRv. With a
little tweaking of the switch's height they fit perfectly and work
great...just beautiful!
We cleaned up the rear fan/vent to new like condition. Is a dimmer type
switch available for that fan? We have seen the Fantastic vent but we'd like
to keep this set up. When you close the vent lid it hits the fan. Is that
correct?
We used two new brass adjustable shell sconce halogen lamps in the living
room and if you'd like us to send you a photo of that let us know.
If you want to see a bunch of dramatic photos of the March rally at our
"Ranch" go to airstreamphotos.com Click on St Patrick Day Rally. We hope
you'll join us in the future. S&B.
Resor Architect, 1268 Blue Sky Drive, Cardiff By The Sea, California
92007-1005, 760-753-8022. Fax: 760-753-8058.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:11:15 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <tbyrd@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Vintage Airstream HEHR Aluminum Vent Cover
Or, put in a three way switch, wired for forward, reverse, and off. Then
you can suck air in, or blow it out.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
Matt Worner wrote:
>
> With a DC motor, just hook it up. If it goes the wrong way, reverse the
> connections. Motors are essentially polarity indifferent.
>
> Matt
>
> My Airstream wrote:
>
> > Oh Happy Days,
> > I was cleaning the stowage area near the reefer and I found one of the
> > cylinders and both of the handles. So now all I need is one cylinder.
> >
> > The stock fan motor that fit in this vent has two red wires. The
> > aftermarket fan motor has a red and black wire in the picture. I have to
> > figure out which of the red wires is supposed to take 12V and which is
> > ground. Trying to find out if the old fan is still OK and don't want to
> > burn it out in the process.
> >
> > Thanx,
> > Bob
> > 66 Safari in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 06:02:10 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Calcium deposits
At 10:13 PM 4/22/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Will see if I can find the adapter needed to get from air compressor hose to
>garden hose.
>
They sell them at Camping World.
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:46:01 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Bowen water heater
Help! I have a Bowen water heater with Honeywell controlls. The
on/off/pilot knob has fallen off and I can't determine what position the
controls are in. Turning the knob shaft, in both directions, I can't
find any stops. It just keeps turning. I can fire up the burner by
putting the knob on and pushing it in, but no matter how long I hold it
in, when I let go everything goes out.
Does anyone have ideas about this or maybe your knob has fallen off too.
Thanks,
Rick Langer
'66 GlobeTrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:56:23 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Bowen water heater
Rick, you have another problem besides a dislocated control knob. The
pilot light should stay lighted no matter where the knob is positioned
other than in the off position, I'd suggest replacing the thermocouple
($5-6 item) as a start. The position of the knob controls the water
temperature.
Hope it helps.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Langer
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 7:46
Subject: [VAC] Bowen water heater
Help! I have a Bowen water heater with Honeywell controlls. The
on/off/pilot knob has fallen off and I can't determine what position the
controls are in. Turning the knob shaft, in both directions, I can't
find any stops. It just keeps turning. I can fire up the burner by
putting the knob on and pushing it in, but no matter how long I hold it
in, when I let go everything goes out.
Does anyone have ideas about this or maybe your knob has fallen off
too.
Thanks,
Rick Langer
'66 GlobeTrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:13:10 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for Beatrice Parts?
on 04/22/02 4:06 AM, tbyrd@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> One of the local RV dealers here, upon hearing that we were restoring an
> Airstream, offered us their entire Airstream parts inventory. They were
> tired of storing them, didn't have anyone to purchase them, and they
> made me a great offer on them. Unfortunately for us, but great for you,
> the vast majority of the parts are for 70's vintage trailers.
There's an authorized Airstream dealer who has made it a point to specialize
in Airstream parts. That's all he does - parts. Why don't you call him if
you have anything left over or want to get a fair price for what you have.
Camper Repair Center
8154 Hwy 22
Montevallo, AL 35115
205-665-2531
D. A. Hare, Sr.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:33:16 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <mrfurious007@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Is it just me...or do the majority of the Toyota SUV's sag in the rear. It seems to occur on those with a weight distributing hitch installed...so my conclusion is Toyota needs to re-engineer the suspension of their entire line of SUV's.</P>
<P>Jeff<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>From: Dan Weeks <THEPROFILECO@xxxxxxxxxx.COM>
<DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
<DIV></DIV>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACLIST@xxxxxxxxxx.NET>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: [VAC] TOYOTA PU PULLER
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:43:54 -0500
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Bob:
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Sounds pretty traumatic to me! Glad you're back on your feet.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>If you're going to beef up the Toyota rear end, you might just see whether
<DIV></DIV>>you could pull a duelly axle from a junked toyota pickup. That would give
<DIV></DIV>>you loads of capacity, plenty of traction and stability, and probably a
<DIV></DIV>>lower gear ratio as well. Of course, then you'd need the oversized fenders,
<DIV></DIV>>too, and if the junkyard rig had a good six cylinder engine in it . . .
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>I attach below some discussion of cork floors, including some urls, that
<DIV></DIV>>appeared on the list while you were off doing double spirals!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Dan
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>------
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>From: Charcigar <STOGIE@xxxxxxxxxx.CA>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> After much debate,I decided to lay cork in my '67 Safari.I elected to go
<DIV></DIV>>with it for several reasons.....light weight,durability,moisture
<DIV></DIV>>repellant,warmth etc.and something I could install myself.I just put it down
<DIV></DIV>>this past Monday and couldn't be happier with the result.I have never laid
<DIV></DIV>>any type of flooring before,so was somewhat nervous about botching
<DIV></DIV>>it.....but I found it to be quite simple and am super pleased with the
<DIV></DIV>>result.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> I also decided to lay the unfinished cork and applied the urethane
<DIV></DIV>>myself(rather than the pre-finished tiles one can also buy)...this way,I get
<DIV></DIV>>a completely sealed floor.I also chose the planks(about 4" wide by 24"
<DIV></DIV>>long)with a micro-beveled edge....cost a little bit more,but worth
<DIV></DIV>>it,especially given length-look of our trailers.(i.e.,not a square shape).
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> I am in Canada and located a great source for the product....let me know if
<DIV></DIV>>you need it.....but odds are you are in the US,and someone else will be able
<DIV></DIV>>to provide you with a supplier there.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Charlotte
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>P.S. Will have some photos of it available on Monday.Let me know if you
<DIV></DIV>>would like to view them.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>From: Daisy Welch <JTDJTD@xxxxxxxxxx.NET>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>I installed a cork floor last fall,it was not a terrible thing, I fact I
<DIV></DIV>>liked it. Surface prep is the hardest.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Once it is sealed, you can sweep, vacuum or even mop it.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>It is insulating, warm and resliant under foot, a renewable resource (
<DIV></DIV>>the trees don't died). It is flexible so will not crack as trailer
<DIV></DIV>>flexes, and comes in a variety of colors ( stains really) My parents
<DIV></DIV>>have had a cork floor in their kitchen for 30 years of utter neglect and
<DIV></DIV>>torture and it still looks great. More expensived than pergo or vinyl.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Go see:
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/airstream3.html
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>and go to the floor story
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Daisy
<DIV></DIV>>From: "Louis Joyner" <JOYNER@xxxxxxxxxx.NET>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: ork flooring
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Cork tiles make a great floor. We have now installed it in two houses.
<DIV></DIV>>Whether to go with prefinished or unfinished depends on your standards and
<DIV></DIV>>skill. Unfinished tiles lightly sanded after installation and finished with
<DIV></DIV>>polyurethane make a very smooth, tight floor, and are what I would recommend
<DIV></DIV>>for a trailer where there is a good chance of the floor getting pretty wet.
<DIV></DIV>>Prefinished tiles cannot achieve the monolithic look that field-finished
<DIV></DIV>>tiles can have, but can be field-finished for additional water resistance.
<DIV></DIV>>Waxed cork is the nicest looking and underfoot, but requires more
<DIV></DIV>>maintenance. Either way makes an institutional-grade floor that can be
<DIV></DIV>>installed by a moderatly skilled person. Cork is more forgiving than VCT
<DIV></DIV>>during installation, but the subfloor needs good prep work.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Water on all floors is an issue these days as modern adhesives are not as
<DIV></DIV>>water resistant as the old "cut back" adhesives were. The price we pay for
<DIV></DIV>>volatile organic compounds compliance.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Good sources for high quality cork tile are Expanko and Dodge Regupol, both
<DIV></DIV>>in PA, and both with web sites. My perception is that Dodge Regupol's tile
<DIV></DIV>>is denser and of higher quality. Expanko has a greater variety of styles.
<DIV></DIV>>Expect to pay $3-4/s.f. for tile alone.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>If finished with polyurethane, just clean with a damp (not soaking) mop,
<DIV></DIV>>warm water, and white vinegar. No wax if you want to stay on your feet.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Louis Joyner
<DIV></DIV>>'64 Overlander
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> > From: VACList <VACLIST@xxxxxxxxxx.NET>
<DIV></DIV>> > Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
<DIV></DIV>> > Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:03:56 -0700
<DIV></DIV>> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACLIST@xxxxxxxxxx.NET>
<DIV></DIV>> > Subject: [VAC]
<DIV></DIV>> >
<DIV></DIV>> > I will probably also beef up the rear suspension so
<DIV></DIV>> > I can take any heavy things out of the Airstream and put them in the truck
<DIV></DIV>> > bed for optimum weight distribution.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<DIV></DIV>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM205401/h'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:02:55 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Calcium deposits
Bob,
Any RV store has a "blowout plug", they're only a couple of bucks.
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> Will see if I can find the adapter needed to get from air compressor hose to
> garden hose. Then I'll have to rent an air compressor. My only concern is
> whether my 66 Safari water heater is too far gone to be saved by this
> procedure.
> Bob
>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Calcium deposits
>
>
>
>>Bob,
>>
>>Atwood, the current manufacturer of the post '68 Bowen style water heater
>>recommends an annual blowout of the water heater. Their method involves
>>attaching an air fitting to the city water inlet, applying clean 40-50 PSI
>>
> air
>
>>and blowing the water of the heater. They say the scavenging action of the
>>
> air
>
>>bubbles will clear the calcium buildup.
>>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:23:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
This thread was originated to discuss the feasibility of using a small
Toyota PU truck to move a 66 Safari (single axle) in the event of a
necessity (like getting service for the trailer). I have no intention
of touring America or even installing a weight distributing hitch.
The ball hitch on the rear bumper of this Toyota truck rates it at 3500
lbs. The Toyota manual rates the trucks pulling capacity at 3500 lbs. I
have and continue to take steps to reduce the weight of my Airstream by
removing forced air heater and soon A/C. That should take me down from
3360 lbs. to under 3100 lbs and well within the PU limits.
Before attempting such a pull I plan to beef up the rear springs and to
carry all heavy contents of the Airstream in the truck bed to give the
little truck more mass. I have no plans to cross mountains.
I'm looking for well informed reasons why this won't work. Put another
way, am I to believe the gross vehicle ratings and weights published by
Toyota and Airstream?
Thanx.
Bob Kiger
89 Toyota truck 2.2L and 5 speed manual tranny
66 Airstream Safari
Oceanside, CA
PS Thanks for the driving tutorial on how to not burn out my clutch.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Griffin=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:33 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
Is it just me...or do the majority of the Toyota SUV's sag in the
rear. It seems to occur on those with a weight distributing hitch
installed...so my conclusion is Toyota needs to re-engineer the
suspension of their entire line of SUV's.
Jeff
>From: Dan Weeks
>Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList
>Subject: [VAC] TOYOTA PU PULLER
>Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:43:54 -0500
>
>Bob:
>
>Sounds pretty traumatic to me! Glad you're back on your feet.
>
>If you're going to beef up the Toyota rear end, you might just see whether
>you could pull a duelly axle from a junked toyota pickup. That would give
>you loads of capacity, plenty of traction and stability, and probably a
>lower gear ratio as well. Of course, then you'd need the oversized fenders,
>too, and if the junkyard rig had a good six cylinder engine in it . . . .
>
>I attach below some discussion of cork floors, including some urls, tha
>appeared on the list while you were off doing double spirals!
>
>Dan
>
>------
>
>From: Charcigar
>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
>
> After much debate,I decided to lay cork in my '67 Safari.I elected to go
>with it for several reasons.....light weight,durability,moisture
>repellant,warmth etc.and something I could install myself.I just put it down
>this past Monday and couldn't be happier with the result.I have never laid
>any type of flooring before,so was somewhat nervous about botching
>it.....but I found it to be quite simple and am super pleased with the
>result.
>
> I also decided to lay the unfinished cork and applied the urethane
>myself(rather than the pre-finished tiles one can also buy)...this way,I get
>a completely sealed floor.I also chose the planks(about 4" wide by 24"
>long)with a micro-beveled edge....cost a little bit more,but worth
>it,especially given length-look of our trailers.(i.e.,not a square shape).
>
> I am in Canada and located a great source for the product....let me know if
>you need it.....but odds are you are in the US,and someone else will be able
>to provide you with a supplier there.
>
>Charlotte
>
>P.S. Will have some photos of it available on Monday.Let me know if you
>would like to view them.
>
>From: Daisy Welch=20
>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
>0
>I installed a cork floor last fall,it was not a terrible thing, I fact I
>liked it. Surface prep is the hardest.
>
>Once it is sealed, you can sweep, vacuum or even mop it.
>
>It is insulating, warm and resliant under foot, a renewable resource (
>the trees don't died). It is flexible so will not crack as trailer
>flexes, and comes in a variety of colors ( stains really) My parents
>have had a cork floor in their kitchen for 30 years of utter neglect and
>torture and it still looks great. More expensived than pergo or vinyl.
>
>Go see:
>
>http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/airstream3.html
>
>and go to the floor story
>
>Daisy
>From: "Louis Joyner"
>Subject: Re: ork flooring
>
> Cork tiles make a great floor. We have now installed it in two houses.
>Whether to go with prefinished or unfinished depends on your standards and
>skill. Unfinished tiles lightly sanded after installation and finished with
>polyurethane make a very smooth, tight floor, and are what I would recommend
>for a trailer where there is a good chance of the floor getting pretty wet.
>Prefinished tiles cannot achieve the monolithic look that field-finished
>tiles can have, but can be field-finished for additional water resistance.
>Waxed cork is the nicest looking and underfoot, but requires more
>maintenance. Either way makes an institutional-grade floor that can be
>installed by a moderatly skilled person. Cork is more forgiving than VCT
>during installation, but the subfloor needs good prep work.
>
>Water on all floors is an issue these days as modern adhesives are not as
>water resistant as the old "cut back" adhesives were. The price we pay for
>volatile organic compounds compliance.
>
>Good sources for high quality cork tile are Expanko and Dodge Regupol, both
>in PA, and both with web sites. My perception is that Dodge Regupol's tile
>is denser and of higher quality. Expanko has a greater variety of styles.
>Expect to pay $3-4/s.f. for tile alone.
>
>If finished with polyurethane, just clean with a damp (not soaking) mop,
>warm water, and white vinegar. No wax if you want to stay on your feet.
>
>Louis Joyner
>'64 Overlander
>
>
> > From: VACList
> > Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> > Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:03:56 -0700
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC]
> >
> > I will probably also beef up the rear suspension so
> > I can take any heavy things out of the Airstream and put them in the truck
> > bed for optimum weight distribution.
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
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please delete all unnecessary original text=20
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:19:17 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
Be very certain that the 3500 pound trailer towing rating for your truck
is for the manual transmission. The problem with most manual
transmission is that the spread of gear ratios is too small. Something
that came from drag racing with close ratio transmissions. My old ford
truck has a 7.3:1 first gear. (and a 5.125 rear axle), it will pull a
house with the big V-8 idling. Won't pass any filling stations with a
mere 15 gallon tank. The modern small 5 speed transmission from Ford has
a 3.92 first gear. Won't pull the hat off your head in second gear, has
to be started (with the stock 3.08 or 3.55 rear axle) in first gear then
shifted up (even unloaded) before 10 mph.
First gear in an automatic transmission is also typically around 3 to
3.5:1 but the torque converter in front of it can often do a 2:1 ratio
at starting to give the engine to drive shaft ratio up to 7:1 like my
old Ford. That makes trucks with automatic transmissions and
conventional axles have a much greater towing rating than manual
transmission trucks. For my '98 F-150, I corrected its deficiencies by
changing the 3.08 rear axle gears to 4.10. Surprisingly it didn't upset
the gas mileage, unless I demonstrate its hot rod capabilities too often
at lights. I've successfully towed a farm wagon with the total weight
over the elevator scale a couple thousand pounds more than I rate the
modified truck.
The key is torque to get the load moving, pulling the trailer wheels out
of their depressions, and going up hill at stop lights. Before he quit
driving, my dad last pulled my Caravel (it was his then) with a Ford
Ranger and manual transmission. He admits that in some situations he had
to gun the engine and pop the clutch to spin the tires else he couldn't
move the Caravel uphill at some lights near his home. When going uphill
its the total package weight that's critical. Whether the load is in the
trailer or the truck doesn't matter. Its the maximum thrust at the drive
wheels that determines the total mass that can be started.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:16:30 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
Bob, given the limits you have imposed upon yourself, you should be OK,
even without dropping the extra weight.
Scott - the one who almost always sayes the bigger the tow vehicle, the
better!
----- Original Message -----
From: My Airstream
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:23 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
This thread was originated to discuss the feasibility of using a small
Toyota PU truck to move a 66 Safari (single axle) in the event of a
necessity (like getting service for the trailer). I have no intention
of touring America or even installing a weight distributing hitch.
The ball hitch on the rear bumper of this Toyota truck rates it at
3500 lbs. The Toyota manual rates the trucks pulling capacity at 3500
lbs. I have and continue to take steps to reduce the weight of my
Airstream by removing forced air heater and soon A/C. That should take
me down from 3360 lbs. to under 3100 lbs and well within the PU limits.
Before attempting such a pull I plan to beef up the rear springs and
to carry all heavy contents of the Airstream in the truck bed to give
the little truck more mass. I have no plans to cross mountains.
I'm looking for well informed reasons why this won't work. Put
another way, am I to believe the gross vehicle ratings and weights
published by Toyota and Airstream?
Thanx.
Bob Kiger
89 Toyota truck 2.2L and 5 speed manual tranny
66 Airstream Safari
Oceanside, CA
PS Thanks for the driving tutorial on how to not burn out my clutch.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Griffin
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:33 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: TOYOTA PU PULLER
Is it just me...or do the majority of the Toyota SUV's sag in the
rear. It seems to occur on those with a weight distributing hitch
installed...so my conclusion is Toyota needs to re-engineer the
suspension of their entire line of SUV's.
Jeff
>From: Dan Weeks
>Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList
>Subject: [VAC] TOYOTA PU PULLER
>Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:43:54 -0500
>
>Bob:
>
>Sounds pretty traumatic to me! Glad you're back on your feet.
>
>If you're going to beef up the Toyota rear end, you might just see whether
>you could pull a duelly axle from a junked toyota pickup. That would give
>you loads of capacity, plenty of traction and stability, and probably a
>lower gear ratio as well. Of course, then you'd need the oversized fenders,
>too, and if the junkyard rig had a good six cylinder engine in it . . .
>
>I attach below some discussion of cork floors, including some urls, that
>appeared on the list while you were off doing double spirals!
>
>Dan
>
>------
>
>From: Charcigar
>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
>
> After much debate,I decided to lay cork in my '67 Safari.I elected to go
>with it for several reasons.....light weight,durability,moisture
>repellant,warmth etc.and something I could install myself.I just put it down
>this past Monday and couldn't be happier with the result.I have never laid
>any type of flooring before,so was somewhat nervous about botching
>it.....but I found it to be quite simple and am super pleased with the
>result.
>
> I also decided to lay the unfinished cork and applied the urethane
>myself(rather than the pre-finished tiles one can also buy)...this way,I get
>a completely sealed floor.I also chose the planks(about 4" wide by 24"
>long)with a micro-beveled edge....cost a little bit more,but worth
>it,especially given length-look of our trailers.(i.e.,not a square shape).
>
> I am in Canada and located a great source for the product....let me know if
>you need it.....but odds are you are in the US,and someone else will be able
>to provide you with a supplier there.
>
>Charlotte
>
>P.S. Will have some photos of it available on Monday.Let me know if you
>would like to view them.
>
>From: Daisy Welch
>Subject: Re: corkfloors pros cons?
>
>I installed a cork floor last fall,it was not a terrible thing, I fact I
>liked it. Surface prep is the hardest.
>
>Once it is sealed, you can sweep, vacuum or even mop it.
>
>It is insulating, warm and resliant under foot, a renewable resource (
>the trees don't died). It is flexible so will not crack as trailer
>flexes, and comes in a variety of colors ( stains really) My parents
>have had a cork floor in their kitchen for 30 years of utter neglect and
>torture and it still looks great. More expensived than pergo or vinyl.
>
>Go see:
>
>http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/airstream3.html
>
>and go to the floor story
>
>Daisy
>From: "Louis Joyner"
>Subject: Re: ork flooring
>
> Cork tiles make a great floor. We have now installed it in two houses.
>Whether to go with prefinished or unfinished depends on your standards and
>skill. Unfinished tiles lightly sanded after installation and finished with
>polyurethane make a very smooth, tight floor, and are what I would recommend
>for a trailer where there is a good chance of the floor getting pretty wet.
>Prefinished tiles cannot achieve the monolithic look that field-finished
>tiles can have, but can be field-finished for additional water resistance.
>Waxed cork is the nicest looking and underfoot, but requires more
>maintenance. Either way makes an institutional-grade floor that can be
>installed by a moderatly skilled person. Cork is more forgiving than VCT
>during installation, but the subfloor needs good prep work.
>
>Water on all floors is an issue these days as modern adhesives are not as
>water resistant as the old "cut back" adhesives were. The price we pay for
>volatile organic compounds compliance.
>
>Good sources for high quality cork tile are Expanko and Dodge Regupol, both
>in PA, and both with web sites. My perception is that Dodge Regupol's tile
>is denser and of higher quality. Expanko has a greater variety of styles.
>Expect to pay $3-4/s.f. for tile alone.
>
>If finished with polyurethane, just clean with a damp (not soaking) mop,
>warm water, and white vinegar. No wax if you want to stay on your feet.
>
>Louis Joyner
>'64 Overlander
>
>
> > From: VACList
> > Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> > Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:03:56 -0700
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC]
> >
> > I will probably also beef up the rear suspension so
> > I can take any heavy things out of the Airstream and put them in the truck
> > bed for optimum weight distribution.
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:46:53 -0500
From: "Griffith, Kenneth" <Kenneth.Griffith@sci-us.com>
Subject: Airstream Lower Window Latch
My name is Ken G. from Bradenton, Florida. I recently purchased a 1966 22'
Safari Twin. Does anyone have a source for the lower window latches that
cranks, pulls, and secures the window? There is a couple on my trailer that
are worn out. Thanks!
E-Mail Disclaimer
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------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:07:47 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Calcium deposits
Thanks Jim,
I love simple solutions :)
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Bob,
> Any RV store has a "blowout plug", they're only a couple of bucks.
>
> <<Jim>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 02 14:09:11 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
You should call Airstream as they at one time offered the tankless heater
as an option. A friend got a new 34ft unit three years ago and he had
specified one. Seen him a month or so ago and asked him how it was
working and he said fine after an initial problem wherein the temp probe
in the tank somehow got to touching the wall of tank and heating up
faster then the water and thus shutting down. Took a while to figure out
the problem. His wife commented that it took longer to get hot water
with the instant heater but I wasn't able to delve into this further
although her husband didn't seem to think it was much a problem. I would
presume their would be a bit of pause while the initial water heated but
wouldn't think it should be long. Might use a bit more water this way
however,
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:08:46 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
Dear Roy,
Any type water heater will have a lag time between turning on the faucet
and delivery of hot water UNLESS the unit is very near the sink. I have
been in modern homes where it takes a couple of minutes for hot water in the
upstairs bathroom.
Luckily, we who own Airstreams have a limited distance from water heater to
any of our outlets. The main differences between the on-demand and
tank-type water heaters are that tanks keep using gas to keep a constant
temperature even when they are not being used. This can be problematic in
cold climates where the heated tank cools down rather quickly. I noticed
this problem when I first bought my Airstream up in the mountains of Oregon.
The most appealing feature of on-demand is that you can have as much hot
water as you have gas to fire the burner and water to go through the system.
I am very happy to hear that Airstream offered on-demand as an option.
Wondering how to find out which unit they used and where it was mounted.
Thanks for the tip
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Lashway" <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
> You should call Airstream as they at one time offered the tankless heater
> as an option. A friend got a new 34ft unit three years ago and he had
> specified one. Seen him a month or so ago and asked him how it was
> working and he said fine after an initial problem wherein the temp probe
> in the tank somehow got to touching the wall of tank and heating up
> faster then the water and thus shutting down. Took a while to figure out
> the problem. His wife commented that it took longer to get hot water
> with the instant heater but I wasn't able to delve into this further
> although her husband didn't seem to think it was much a problem. I would
> presume their would be a bit of pause while the initial water heated but
> wouldn't think it should be long. Might use a bit more water this way
> however,
>
> Roy Lashway
> '78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
> WBCCI 1610 VAC
> rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
> (polishing report included)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:21:46 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
Keep the pipe size between the heater and faucets small to reduce the
amount of cold water coming out. Also INSULATE that pipe as heavily as
you can. And keep that pipe to the faucet as short as possible. It will
be feeding two sinks and the shower so it can't be very short for all
three. You don't need to flow of even a 1/2" pipe, maybe only the flow
of a 3/8" or 1/4" pipe to the sinks and shower. E.g. use the pipe size
for a flow restrictor to keep the volume of wasted cold water to a
minimum.
Gerald
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:28:10 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <mrfurious007@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Removing tail light fixture
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Airstream gurus:</P>
<P>I need to remove the tail light fixture on the rear of my 1968 Caravel. Any advice would be much appreciated.</P>
<P>Jeff</P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/43'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:20:13 -0700
From: Dennis Morgan <dmorgan@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
Thanks,
Dennis
> From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 02 14:09:11 -0600
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
>
> You should call Airstream as they at one time offered the tankless heater
> as an option. A friend got a new 34ft unit three years ago and he had
> specified one. Seen him a month or so ago and asked him how it was
> working and he said fine after an initial problem wherein the temp probe
> in the tank somehow got to touching the wall of tank and heating up
> faster then the water and thus shutting down. Took a while to figure out
> the problem. His wife commented that it took longer to get hot water
> with the instant heater but I wasn't able to delve into this further
> although her husband didn't seem to think it was much a problem. I would
> presume their would be a bit of pause while the initial water heated but
> wouldn't think it should be long. Might use a bit more water this way
> however,
>
> Roy Lashway
> '78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
> WBCCI 1610 VAC
> rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
> (polishing report included)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:21:54 -0700
From: Dennis Morgan <dmorgan@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
Thanks for the great advice!
Dennis
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:21:46 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
>
> Keep the pipe size between the heater and faucets small to reduce the
> amount of cold water coming out. Also INSULATE that pipe as heavily as
> you can. And keep that pipe to the faucet as short as possible. It will
> be feeding two sinks and the shower so it can't be very short for all
> three. You don't need to flow of even a 1/2" pipe, maybe only the flow
> of a 3/8" or 1/4" pipe to the sinks and shower. E.g. use the pipe size
> for a flow restrictor to keep the volume of wasted cold water to a
> minimum.
>
> Gerald
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #282
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