The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList-Digest Tuesday, April 16, 2002 Issue 275
Today's Topics:
1. Re: vintage rules
2. Re: FW: 25 year rule
3. Re: electrical short
4. Re: Strange advice
5. Electrical Short
6. Re: Strange advice
7. Re: FW: 25 year rule
8. Re: Fw: FW: 25 year rule
9. Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
10. Re: Shower & Water Heater
11. Re: Shower & Water Heater
12. Difficult window leaks
13. Re: Difficult window leaks
14. Re: vintage rules
15. Re: Strange advice
16. Re: Shower & Water Heater
17. Re: Strange advice
18. Re: Difficult window leaks
19. Re: Difficult window leaks
20. Wanted >> Campground Host
21. Re: Shower & Water Heater
22. Tire Removal
23. Re: Strange advice
24. Re: 67 22 ft. Safari for sale
25. Aluminum skin
26. Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
27. Re: FW: 25 year rule
28. Re: Tire Removal
29. Re: Tire Removal
30. Re: Aluminum skin
31. Re: Aluminum skin
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:32:01 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: vintage rules
Is it really true that the board members don't subscribe to the list?
I am sitting here looking at my application form and suddenly got confused.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 20:44:07 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: FW: 25 year rule
THANKS NOLAND! (even though you can't read this). So folks, "the monkey is
dead and the show is over" .... lets get back to the ins and out of
rehabilitating these old shiny money pits! :>) ><> ><> ><>
Jerry
RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> (Noland Vogt-VAC President, just sent this to the VACList,
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 20:52:16 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: electrical short
Dr, G, Andy et. al.,
Thanks for the input. Man! What would would-be airstream mechanics like
myself do without you guys ... and girls!!!
Jerry (Who often gets his wires crossed)
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 21:23:09 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Strange advice
Hi Karl,
I don't get it. I have used Rolite on my 68 Sovereign and it looks
great. You have to keep in mind I stripped the clear coat off and used
Rolite on the unprotected skin. If you have a clear coat then I would
agree and don't use Rolite, it could damage the finish of the clear
coat. Otherwise with proper use you will obtain a mirror like finish.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign - Polished
59 Traveler - just waiting for the Rolite
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Karl F. Larsen
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 5:31 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Strange advice
I was told today by e-mail to NEVER use Rolite AP-300 on my
trailer. I have a 1 pound container of this stuff and it's recommended
by
many people. Who can we believe?
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:58:00 -0400
From: "john or cindy" <jyoung@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Electrical Short
Jerry
Go to the hardware or builder's supply store & buy a 110 volt tester that
cost less than $5. The one I use is about 1" x 1" x 2" long when plugged
into a three prong outlet. It has 3 "LED's" that tell you if the hot line &
neutral wires are reversed, if the hot line or neutral or ground has an
"open" in it. If the ground is reversed with the hot line.
It is a real simple tool that I use so much I have a few of them. I even
leave one in my trailer, plugged into an outlet I can see from the doorway
so I know that shore power is connected. I also use it to check the shore
power BEFORE I connect my trailer to the park's outlet. I think this tester
will only work on 3 prong grounded type outlets. It isn't like having an
electrician standing next to you, but it will give you some good diagnostic
answers.
If you can't get the shocking problem corrected yourself, pay an
electrician or pay an attorney.
I hope this helps.
John Young
"If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy"
(R. Green)
WBCCI & VAC 6034
58 Caravanner
73 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 05:52:42 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Strange advice
Karl, did s/he say why not? I have concluded from reading the mail and a lot
of web surfing that Nuvite is probably a better product but until recently,
Rolite was the polish of choice.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 17:30
Subject: [VAC] Strange advice
>
> I was told today by e-mail to NEVER use Rolite AP-300 on my
> trailer. I have a 1 pound container of this stuff and it's recommended by
> many people. Who can we believe?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:36:13 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: FW: 25 year rule
Agreed, speaking of money pits, here is an article that appeared in todays
Houston Chronicle about the fascination over Vintage Airstreams.
http://204.29.171.80/framer/navigation.asp?charset=utf-8&cc=US&frameid=1565&;
lc=en-us&providerid=113&realname=Houston+Chronicle&uid=1722332&url=http%3A%2
F%2Fwww.chron.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:44 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: FW: 25 year rule
> THANKS NOLAND! (even though you can't read this). So folks, "the monkey is
> dead and the show is over" .... lets get back to the ins and out of
> rehabilitating these old shiny money pits! :>) ><> ><> ><>
> Jerry
>
> RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> > (Noland Vogt-VAC President, just sent this to the VACList,
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:38:55 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: FW: 25 year rule
If you can't get the link below to work, try www.houstonchronicle.com then
click on the "Metro - State" section listed on the left side of the page.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [VAC] Re: FW: 25 year rule
> Agreed, speaking of money pits, here is an article that appeared in todays
> Houston Chronicle about the fascination over Vintage Airstreams.
>
>
http://204.29.171.80/framer/navigation.asp?charset=utf-8&cc=US&frameid=1565&;
>
lc=en-us&providerid=113&realname=Houston+Chronicle&uid=1722332&url=http%3A%2
> F%2Fwww.chron.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:44 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: FW: 25 year rule
>
>
> > THANKS NOLAND! (even though you can't read this). So folks, "the monkey
is
> > dead and the show is over" .... lets get back to the ins and out of
> > rehabilitating these old shiny money pits! :>) ><> ><> ><>
> > Jerry
> >
> > RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> >
> > > (Noland Vogt-VAC President, just sent this to the VACList,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:40:15 -0400
From: Blair <blair@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
I agree - The 25 year rule only makes sense.
What's troubling to me is the fact that our leadership is
trying to "destroy and divide" the current system which
has proven itself over the years.
Maybe a reassessment of our leadership is in order.
Blair
At 08:27 AM 4/15/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>on 4/14/02 7:36 AM, Terry Tyler at tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
>
> > From: Terry Tyler, WBCCI 6477 & VAC
> > To: VACList, VAC Elected Officers 2001-2002
> > Subj: 25 Year Rule - One Man's Opinion
> >
><snip>
> >
> > My suggestion is to stay with the crisp and clean 25 year rule. Allow each
> > of us to share the joy of restoring and using our wonderful old vintage
> > vehicles without being artificially grouped on the basis of the decade our
> > Airstreams were manufactured.
> >
><snip>
>
>Here! Here! And ditto to all the rest of Terry's post. Maybe the body shape
>of my '76 isn't as cool as a '57, but the '57 doesn't have all that cool and
>curvy tambour that makes the inside of my trailer look like the first Delta
>flight I ever rode in (the one when the captain gave me a tour of the
>cockpit and the nice lady gave me wings to wear.)
>
>Fact is, they're all cool in their own way, and we all have a lot to learn
>from fellow restorers, refurbishers, and redesigners, whatever model happens
>to be their current pet project. (Love that Edison thing in the last VAC
>newsletter!)
>
>Betch a sawbuck that, way out there in 2027, this list will have a raging
>discussion about how to repair scratches in the wilsonart laminate on the
>dinette of one of those cool "old" "inside Design" Bambis that have that
>great "turn of the century" look. Just hope I'm around to brag about my
>ancient '76's tambour at that point!
>
>Let's stick with the 25 year rule.
>
>Greg
>'76 Tradewind
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:58:15 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater
--part1_36.25f450e4.29ed87f7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Bob: Could you be more specific? The sink is enclosed....same enclosure as
the tub and shower unit.
Tom
--part1_36.25f450e4.29ed87f7_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Bob: Could you be more specific? The sink is enclosed....same enclosure as the tub and shower unit.<BR>
Tom</FONT></HTML>
--part1_36.25f450e4.29ed87f7_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:02:29 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater
Mine is a 1969 24 ft. Tradewind...sink and tub are all enclosed in a
fiberglass unit. No access doors or holes I can find under or around the
sink. I was hoping the tail light unit would come out so I could reach the
pipe from there but I can't get it out from the rear of the trailer.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:50:00 -0700
From: Charcigar <stogie@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Difficult window leaks
Hi Everyone,
I have recently stripped all old window caulk from my '67 Safari.I am
talking about the caulk that was above all the windows.I then re-sealed
these areas with Sikaflex.
Problem is,I still have leaks from both the rear window and the kitchen
window.I am not totally sure where the water is getting in,so let me try
and describe what I see.....the water appears to be getting in from the
upper window corners.Inside,it appears towards the upper corners of the
windows....I can feel the wetness there and can see it running down the
window lever and dripping off the bottom of it.My initial thought is
that although I have sealed around the TOP of the window frame,these
leaks are getting it where the window bends outwards when you open
it.Any thoughts on this?If this is indeed the problem,how do you solve
it?The only thing I can think of is to caulk that entire "crack"
line(right where the window opens outwards)...if so,what should I
use?Some kind of non-silicone clear caulk?I think Vulkem or Sikaflex
would be rather unsightly here.My other concern is that if I do caulk
this area,that the opening and closing of the windows will eventually
cause the caulk to fail anyway.
I hope I am explaining this ok.
Any help with this dearly appreciated...I live on the "wet coast",so
desperately need to get this under control!
Charlotte
New Westminster,BC
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:00:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Difficult window leaks
My dad added little metal awnings above the hinges on what is now my '68
Caravel to fix the uncaukable window leaks. They are visible on the left
side on my web page http://homepages.isunet.net/geraldj/
Probably the true fix is to replace the gasket material the window
closes against with a piece behind the hinge assembly. I don't know how
that might be done.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:37:37 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: vintage rules
Looking at the subscriber list, of the elected and appointed board, 5 are on
the VACList including 3 of the 4 vice-presidents (future presidents), so
there is cyber-representation. Most receive it as Digest, but 3 have their
mail on hold - this is the beginning of the rally season after all.
Remember, the VACList is only a small part of the VAC membership, and many
people just don't find the computer a daily function. Some find the printed
Vintage Advantage to their liking, and others live for sharing their
beautiful trailers at the rallies.
Speaking of which, I'm off the air for the week, heading up to the Snug
Harbor rally in Rio Vista.
Later guys,
RJ Dial - VAC Webmaster
> From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:32:01 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: vintage rules
>
> Is it really true that the board members don't subscribe to the list?
> I am sitting here looking at my application form and suddenly got confused.
> Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:44:11 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Strange advice
Hmm, I don't like using the AP-300 as it seems hard to remove the base
material, from all but the smoothest skin, without a lot of polishing, and
the resulting mirror shine will show every flaw and scratch - and when it
starts to lose that shine you feel so rejected. I just use it on the LP
bottles now.
But don't see why to NEVER use it.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:30:53 -0600 (MDT)
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Strange advice
> I was told today by e-mail to NEVER use Rolite AP-300 on my
> trailer. I have a 1 pound container of this stuff and it's recommended by
> many people. Who can we believe?
> Yours Truly,
> - Karl F. Larsen,
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:05:55 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater
- I just checked the access hole under the sink. It is round and (upon
this inspection) I would say it was created by someone like yourself who
needed to work on the wand. It provides good access and cannot be seen
by casual visitors.
Bob
Original Message -----
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:58 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Shower & Water Heater
Bob: Could you be more specific? The sink is enclosed....same
enclosure as the tub and shower unit.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:57:41 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Strange advice
Wow...I still use Rolite AP-300, in fact I'm in the process this week
getting the trailer ready for the season. I have not switched to Nuvite
because it has a slight cut whereas Rollite does not.
I have found that after using a few years, (and as the label says) use it
sparingly - that way there is not much to wipe off with rags by hand.
Ken Johansen
5358
59 Traveler
75 Tradewind
At 03:30 PM 4/15/02 -0600, you wrote:
>
> I was told today by e-mail to NEVER use Rolite AP-300 on my
>trailer. I have a 1 pound container of this stuff and it's recommended by
>many people. Who can we believe?
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:09:08 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: Difficult window leaks
Greetings Charlotte!
Problem is,I still have leaks from both the rear window
I realize there is a slight difference with the corning windows, but
have you ruled out the possibility of the rear clearance lights as a
leak source for your rear window - - or possibly one of the rearmost
roof seams? The clearance lights on my Overlander have been the source
of leaks two different times, and each time it appeared the window was
leaking (once in the front and once in the rear).
and the kitchen window.
Have you ruled out the possibility of a leak originating from the
range hood vent fixture where it exits the wall/roof if your trailer is
so equipped? The vent cap on my range hood vent fixture was damaged in
a hail storm, and this created a leak that evidenced itself in the
kitchen window. Again, I know there are apt to be differences between
my '64 Overlander with Hehr windows and your '67 Caravel with Corning
windows.
I am not totally sure where the water is getting in,so let me try and
describe what I see.....the water appears to be getting in from the
upper window corners.Inside,it appears towards the upper corners of the
windows....I can feel the wetness there and can see it running down the
window lever and dripping off the bottom of it.My initial thought is
that although I have sealed around the TOP of the window frame,these
leaks are getting it where the window bends outwards when you open
it.Any thoughts on this?If this is indeed the problem,how do you solve
it?The only thing I can think of is to caulk that entire "crack"
line(right where the window opens outwards)...if so,what should I
use?Some kind of non-silicone clear caulk?I think Vulkem or Sikaflex
would be rather unsightly here.My other concern is that if I do caulk
this area,that the opening and closing of the windows will eventually
cause the caulk to fail anyway
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:05:45 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <gquamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Difficult window leaks
Problem is,I still have leaks from both the rear window and the kitchen
window.I am not totally sure where the water is getting in,so let me try and
describe what I see.....
Hi again Charlotte:
I too am fighting a couple of persistent leaks and have pretty much zeroed
in on what I think is the source. Now, all I have to do is get up there and
deal with it.
I think it is the awning track. I can see where someone has applied sealant
along the upper edge of the extrusion. It has failed in places. I actually
can see daylight under the extrusion which tell me that the fasteners need
to be drilled out and the extrusion bedded in Vulkem and re-riveted. If you
don't have an awning installed (I do) it would be a fairly easy job.
In my case, the leaks are generating much more water than would be expected
from seams or running lights. But half of the water that drains off of the
roof is retained by the awning track until it can run off the ends of the
track. The leaks I have are only on the side with the awning. I also have
a leak by the galley window, but my other one is at the corner of the front
window. I made some foil "catchers" and directed the water into a bucket at
each leak location. I get much more water than a simple leak would produce
You would not think that a leak originating from the top of the trailer
could manifest itself as far away as the front window, but I think that it
follows the frame rib under the end cap and shows up at the window.
Unfortunately (in this case) the rains have about stopped until fall and I
won't be able to really know for sure whether this fix will solve the
problem, but I am confident that I'm headed in the right direction.
Check it out.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:25:46 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Wanted >> Campground Host
Hi Airstreamers,
Today (04/12/02), we were told of a job as Campground Hosts. Sandie and I
were interested but not this month. We're heading for Upstate NY in four
days. The vacancy exists right now. The Campground Park Managers are hoping
an Airstream family will volunteer to become their Campground Hosts for a
month or longer. The Park is open 12 months a year. Advance planning would
be easy to arrange.
The Park Managers are Margaret and Tony. Margaret was particularly helpful
to us. Of all the parks we've visited and done volunteer work, this is one
of the more attractive situations. We would not hesitate to volunteer at
this park. The Managers are delightful people, reasonable and competent.
The benefits include a campsite that's large, spacious, grassy, tree lined,
private and has a picnic table on a concrete platform and a pedestal type
grill or fireplace ring. There is a raised tent platform at one side. All RV
sites (including the Hosts) are on elevated macadam. Utilities include water
and electric. There's a dump station and pay phone. We were parked in this
campground four days ago during several hours of torrential rains and saw no
flooding.
The campground facilities include two loops with playgrounds and comfort
stations (buildings with public showers, bathrooms, washing machines and
dryers). All roads in the campground were paved in early April 2002 with
several inches of macadam. Many RV sites have trees and shrubs between them
and the next site. Privacy is available for anyone who wants it. There are
five handicap accessible campsites (more macadam for wheel chairs).
The Host's job description is to clean individual fireplaces after campers
leave and before the next campers arrive. A wheel barrow and shovel are
provided. Many families stay at the campground for a week which means some
mornings are busy while others are not. On weekends, it also includes
keeping bathrooms supplied with paper. Other than these two jobs, that's it.
Where is the campground? Bayou Segnette State Park is located in Louisiana
across the Mississippi River from New Orleans in the Westwego section. The
campground itself is about 30 minutes from New Orlean's French Quarter.
The park is in the middle of some of the best fishing in the country, i.e.
bass, catfish, bream, perch, redfish and trout. There are boat ramps in the
park for access to waterways and bayous by power boats or canoes.
Bird watching and identifying woodland animals is a favorite past time. We
have seen armadillos, racoons, red-tailed hawks, red-wing blackbirds,
cardinals and bald eagles. The Park's wave pool and swimming pool are
available to the Hosts.
What is it like in the campground? We've been in the park a week and have
seen every thing from three tents on a site to massive motor homes. We've
talked to campers with an old Bluebird Wanderlodge, a 1970s Silver Streak
trailer, a tent trailer from the 1960s, as well as folks with a brand new,
white travel trailer.
The campers are a cross section of Americana with nationalities and ethnic
groups galore. Additionally, more than 50% of them are here with younger
children. During the day, the playgrounds have kids on the slippery slide,
riding the bouncing animals, walking the suspended bridge and having a grand
time. Bicycles with training wheels seem to outnumber cars.
Each evening at supper time, the smell of seafood and cajun cooking
permeates the campground (steak, too). Later, we see families sitting around
campfires laughing, talking, cooking popcorn and doing what families do
before their kids turn in for the night. It's common place to see seniors
visiting with their younger neighbors.
Do we like this kind of campground? You bet. It's exciting, it's alive,
there's always something happening. Our neighbor takes his dog for a walk by
riding around the block on his scooter with his dog on his lap. The next
time around, he has his grandson on his lap. The father of the family with
the long, long vintage trailer (pulled by a stake truck) looks like Santa
with a pony tail. His truck was full of bicycles, a big gas grill and an
inflatable boat (already inflated). I didn't see a motor for the boat, but
it's probably there. The family with the three tents on the site beside the
comfort station is well behaved and enjoying themselves immensely.
All campers are very aware of a strong but friendly/fair Security presence
throughout the entire park, including the campground. Several very sociable
young men and women in their SECURITY ENFORCEMENT trucks make the rounds
regularly. They have two way radios and carry sidearms.
Staying at this campground has been a fun experience for us. If anyone would
like be a Campground Host, I suggest contacting Margaret or Tony Hall for an
interview. They encouraged me to sent this notice to owners of Airstreams
and is hoping to hear from a few families. Their phone number is
1.504.736.7140. Email is <bayousegnette@xxxxxxxxxx.state.la.us>.There is a state
park website with information on the campground host program and an
application for hosts. That website is www.lastateparks.com.
Cheers,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:32:51 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater
Bob: Thanks for checking. Is the hole cut into the fiberglass? If it is, it
was probably made by someone with my problem. I may have to consider cutting
the fiberglass myself and this sounds like it would be a good place to do it.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:18:34 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Tire Removal
I need to take one of my tires of, it has a slow leak. How do you jack
up a 1976 31' Sovereign? The manual says there is a label on the frame
to rear of the tire(s). I did not see one.
Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 02 13:29:14 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Strange advice
>Wow...I still use Rolite AP-300, in fact I'm in the process this week
>getting the trailer ready for the season. I have not switched to Nuvite
>because it has a slight cut whereas Rollite does not.
============
I finished my '56, 16ft Bubble using the Rolite products. You can see
detail of my experience at my web site noted below. This polish job was
completed just over two years ago. It is still looking quite good
although I am going to repolish in a few weeks. I am going to experiment
with both Nuvite S grade and Rolite 300 to see which gives the most
satisfying finish. Plus I wil use a Cyclo polisher and the sweat shirt
method this time. I'll let you know what I think.
One of the reasons I suspect my polish has held up is the coat of
Rolite Premium CAr Polish and Selant I applied when finished. I was
immediately pleased with it as it toned down the very glaring mirror
finish just enough to take the garish look away. I suspect the
storage/climate conditions of a trailer is stpred can make a difference
in how well the polish holds up. I am out in southern New Mexico. It is
very dry, lot of hot son in summer months but not a lot of chemical
polution except dust during the windy spring, and very little rain. I
do store mine outside in my side yard and it is exposed to what ever we
have. I wash it just prior to each use and occasionally in between due
to tree sap or bird visitation etc.. Amounts to about 9 times a year.
Another factor that enters into considereation is the year and the type
of aluminum used on the trailer. The stuff in '56 had a pretty hard
finish (cladding I think they call it) and from what I have from this
list this decreased as newer and different specifications of aluminum
was used.
Lastly whoever said you shouldn't us AP300 is just wrong and if they had
a poor experience it was probably due to their polish techniques and
quipment.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 16:05:30 -0400
From: Patricia Raimondo <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 67 22 ft. Safari for sale
Greetings All,
With much regret I am selling my 1967, single axle, 22 ft. Safari Twin.
I just had it overhauled at the Jackson Center Plant two weeks ago and
it looks and works great! Details:
All new:
5 cub. Dometic two-way fridge, Magic Chef three burner oven, Duo Therm
13,500 Brisk Air High Effic. air conditioner, Atwood 6 ga. hot water
heater, Winegard amplified ant., 2 30 gal. propane tanks with newest
regulator c safety shut off valve, two tires and all new electric
brakes, breakaway wire, 7 pin tow plug, solar rock guard, circuit
breaker box and switches, dump valve, underbelly pan, three new roof
vents, scare light, door lock, Moen kitchen one arm facet, bath and tub
fixtures, fresh water holding tank, plumbing with shut off valves, one
piece linoleum floor, goucho cushions in sage green corduroy, and entire
exterior re-sealed with vol. sealer. All skins perfect, no dents, dings
or scratches. Includes Reese hitching system. I have all receipts and
warranties.
I've put in over $14,000 and am asking $12,000. I took a bunch of
digital photos and will post it on a page as soon as I figure out how
to!!!!!! I will be posting it on the Vintage classified section sometime
this week so if anyone knows of another interested get back to me! I
live on Long Island, just over the Queens border.
Patti
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 15:44:26 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: Aluminum skin
I am pleased to be the new owner of a 1962 Bambi. I have been following
this discussion group for quite a while and have a wealth of info that I
will now attempt to put into practice. My question today is what thickness
of alclad aluminum should I buy to replace the piece of the belly pan that
wraps up under the threshhold? This piece must bend around the frame to
form the "rocker panel" under the door. Because the rest of the belly pan
is in good shape I intend to cut it at the main frame member running front
to back and pop rivet through the new piece, the old piece and the frame in
that order. Short of going to a machine shop is there a good way to bend
the material to the appropriate curve? Anybody have any suggestions,
cautions, alerts etc. I should know of before proceeding? Because the floor
is already out in this area I can access the patch from the top if that
should suggest an approach I haven't thought of. I may also buy a piece of
aluminum for repairs to the exterior skin. Is this the same thickness as
the piece discussed above? Thanks.
Dick, '62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 17:42:32 -0400
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <llindner@xxxxxxxxxx.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
4/15/2002 1:27:47 AM, Greg Hankins <ghankins@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> the '57 doesn't have all that cool and
>curvy tambour that makes the inside of my trailer look like the first Delta
>flight I ever rode in
Hear! Hear! At last someone else who appreciates the Beatrice years!
-- Lew #4239
'72 Safari
bicycle
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:42:09 -0400
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <llindner@xxxxxxxxxx.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: 25 year rule
4/16/2002 3:36:13 AM, Don Hardman <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>Agreed, speaking of money pits, here is an article that appeared in todays
>Houston Chronicle about the fascination over Vintage Airstreams.
>
Don, I'd really like to read that article, but that long URL just took me to the front page,
and nothing a/s was listed. Hope you can help.
-- Lew #4239
'72 Safari
bicycle
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:53:58 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Tire Removal
Don. You don't jack up your trailer. Break the lug nuts loose on the bad
wheel. Pull the other wheel up on some 2 x 6 " boards, high enough so that
the bad tire and wheel clear the ground. Then take the lugs nuts off, and
away you go. No need for jack at all. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:18:03 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal
On Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:53:58 EDT, Andy wrote:
>Don. You don't jack up your trailer. Break the lug nuts loose on the bad
>wheel. Pull the other wheel up on some 2 x 6 " boards, high enough so that
>the bad tire and wheel clear the ground. Then take the lugs nuts off, and
>away you go. No need for jack at all. Andy
You know, I have always heard that, but I never got it to
work- I always wound up having to put a jack under the trailing arm to
lift the tire off the ground enough to change it- I couldn't stack
enough boards and still be able to pull only one wheel on to them.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:22:58 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Aluminum skin
Dick, 62 Bambi. The underbelly is not alclad. It's thickness is .024 inches.
Alclad has never been used for any underbelly, that Airstream ever built.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:41:34 -0400
From: tom walden <twalden1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum skin
Andy's right on the money. The thicker, alclad wouldn't easily make
those bends needed for the underbelly and no need for the pure aluminum
coating that polishes up so nicely with Heculean effort. The underbelly
sheets are even bent over the edge of the channel along the base of the
walls on the 58 Traveler. This thinner gauge aluminum makes repairing or
replacing the belly pan a relatively easy process.
Tom
58 TRAVELER
55 SAFARI
96 BVAN
Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Dick, 62 Bambi. The underbelly is not alclad. It's thickness is .024 inches.
> Alclad has never been used for any underbelly, that Airstream ever built.
> Andy
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #275
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text