The Vintage Airstream E-mail List
Archive Files
VACList-Digest Sunday, April 14, 2002 Issue 273
Today's Topics:
1. 57 Overlander Antenna
2. 66 Trade Wind
3. Re: 66 Trade Wind
4. Shower & Water Heater
5. 1958 Hitch Needs Help
6. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
7. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
8. Re: Shower & Water Heater
9. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
10. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
11. Re:
12. 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
13. Re: PJM-> vac <63 bathroom removal
14. Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
15. Re: awnings
16. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
17. Blocking diode (?)
18. Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:11:46 -0400
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 57 Overlander Antenna
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:57:59 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdjarrell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Question
Wayne A Moore wrote:
> Jerry they are, or in your case were, the radio antenna bracket bases.
Thanks WAM, great pic. do you have any idea where I could find a
replacement?
Jerry
Jerry,
I haven't looked myself but you may find a replacement a radio shack. I've
been spending my free time researching a supplier for a waste tank for my 65
Caravel.
Later
WAM
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:52:29 -0400
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 66 Trade Wind
Message Number: 26
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:16:20 -0600
From: "curtis" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 66 tradewind
Wayne:
On your '66 before pictures, I noticed a large dent on the upper left rear.
What procedure did you use to remove that dent? I have a dent similar to
that one on my "66, but a little higher up.
Parts: Do you have an extra window latch assembly? I also noticed in the
after picture you did not use the Curtin assembly between galley and
sleeping area, do you want to sell it?
Did you do the polish job? Looks great.
Curtis
Hi Curtis,
The dent was hammered out using an auto body hammer and dolly, takes
two. If you look close at the pics the dent is fairly noticeable. I intend
to replace those when I get the opportunity to buy the materials at a
reasonable price. 2024T3 aluminum is extremely difficult to work with after
it has been damaged. According to my sources it can't be heat worked without
melting or cracking so I cold worked the metal at risk of tearing.
Fortunately the dent had no real creases in the metal and I was able to
flatten out the dent.
Window latch assemblies, inside cabinet hardware and corning glass
windows are extremely hard to come by because they were only made for 3
years and in the case of cabinet hardware the latches were unique to 1966
just like aluminum wiring, thetford mechanical toilets, and Dometic
refrigerators that work. And did I forgot to mention Dometic refrigerators
that work. If you have one, find your nearest landfill and drive to it with
the so called refrigerator and when you get there dump it out the door,
then drive to your local RV dealer and get a new one. Automatic electronic
ignition is so nice!!!!
On second thought just take it to a reputable local salvage yard so that it
may be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner.
I still have the curtain, contact me offlist and we can talk about it!
Yes, I polish my own trailer. It takes about 80 hours to strip and polish
the first time then another 40 hours each season for maintenance.
Later
Wayne A. Moore (WAM)
President
Washington, DC Unit 2002
WBCCI/VAC 15116
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:39:01 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Trade Wind
"And did I forgot to mention Dometic refrigerators
that work. If you have one, find your nearest landfill and drive to it with
the so called refrigerator and when you get there dump it out the door,
then drive to your local RV dealer and get a new one. "
I have one that works great but I need a door. If anybody is on the way to
the landfill, please let me know.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 21:40:24 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Shower & Water Heater
Still trying to take my AS on its first trip....more problems. Anyone know
how to reach to copper tubing that goes from the on/off valvues in the shower
unit to the outlet for the shower wand. Its behind the fiberglass and
alittle below the tail-light assembly on the right side of the trailer. I
can see no way to get in there and that (of course) is where there is a major
leak. Also, I fired up the water heater- it works but it appears that there
is a water leak from the bottom of the water heater. It runs out under the
carpet around the toilet. I don't think it leaks with the water heater full
but turned off. Is this possible?....that it would only leak when its on.
If its the water heater....how big a project is it to remove the water heater
and check water connections? Friday is the first day of vacation....doesnt
look like AS is going on this trip. Thanks for any suggestions.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind 24 ft. rear bath
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 04:57:23 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Hello Airstreamers,
The trailer in question here is a 1958. The hitch has issues. The little
spring-loaded thingamajig that is supposed to go up and down when you
latch and unlatch the hitch doesn't move. It is solidly stuck in the up
position. It has obviously been that way for years, because when I got
the trailer (years ago) it had holes drilled in the sides of the hitch
with chain attached thereto, obviously to fasten beneath the ball to
prevent the coupler from bouncing off.
Now, I know I can replace the entire coupler. In fact, I now have a
spare trailer I bought specifically with that thought in mind. But there
is not a darn thing wrong with this coupler, EXCEPT the stuck
thingamajig! And it is the original, so I'd prefer to leave it.
I will be happy to entertain any and all suggestions. Except WD-40,
which did nothing.
Thank you all in advance for any assistance you can offer.
Best regards,
Rik
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:20:43 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Rik,
WD-40 won't do anything by itself, it's not a Magic Potion. Use some
vibration with the WD-40 and you might have better luck. Try tapping
with a small ball-peen hammer or better yet, a muffler gun. The latter
is a small air hammer that has different tools available for the working
end. My favorite for this kind of work is a "button" about 1" diameter.
You do need to be careful with the air hammer, it's possible to break
things. The basic idea is to soak the parts with WD-40 or other
penetrant (Kroil, Corrosion-X, PB Blaster, etc.), then vibrate the hell
outa it to loosen the parts and get the 'stuff' to penetrate.
Of course, something might be actually broken, not simply stuck.....
<<Jim>>
Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:
> Hello Airstreamers,
>
> The trailer in question here is a 1958. The hitch has issues. The little
> spring-loaded thingamajig that is supposed to go up and down when you
> latch and unlatch the hitch doesn't move. It is solidly stuck in the up
> position. It has obviously been that way for years, because when I got
> the trailer (years ago) it had holes drilled in the sides of the hitch
> with chain attached thereto, obviously to fasten beneath the ball to
> prevent the coupler from bouncing off.
>
> Now, I know I can replace the entire coupler. In fact, I now have a
> spare trailer I bought specifically with that thought in mind. But there
> is not a darn thing wrong with this coupler, EXCEPT the stuck
> thingamajig! And it is the original, so I'd prefer to leave it.
>
> I will be happy to entertain any and all suggestions. Except WD-40,
> which did nothing.
>
> Thank you all in advance for any assistance you can offer.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 08:24:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <gregpaulsen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Rick, if you push the roll pin out that holds the release lever in place the ball retaining
shoe and spring will fall out of the coupler, there is a coupler repair kit made for the
older Airstream trailers with the Marvel (now Atwood) couplers.
Greg Paulsen
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
--0-1999426018-1018797883=:70975
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 11:30:55 -0400
From: "James Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater
Tom, I was able to reach the shower controls (faucet) in my ' 68 =
Tradewind by going in behind the potty. On the ' 68 models, there is a =
folding backrest over the potty. Lower that and I could see and reach =
the copper lines going to the faucet (which I replaced). Not easy but =
possible. The other ends of the copper lines can be reached in a ' 68 =
model from the rear storage compartment (wher the battery is located on =
mine. Not sure if the ' 69 models are arranged the same way or not.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 21:40
Subject: [VAC] Shower & Water Heater
Still trying to take my AS on its first trip....more problems. Anyone =
know how to reach to copper tubing that goes from the on/off valvues in =
the shower unit to the outlet for the shower wand. Its behind the =
fiberglass and alittle below the tail-light assembly on the right side =
of the trailer. I can see no way to get in there and that (of course) =
is where there is a major leak. Also, I fired up the water heater- it =
works but it appears that there is a water leak from the bottom of the =
water heater. It runs out under the carpet around the toilet. I don't =
think it leaks with the water heater full but turned off. Is this =
possible?....that it would only leak when its on. If its the water =
heater....how big a project is it to remove the water heater and check =
water connections? Friday is the first day of vacation....doesnt look =
like AS is going on this trip. Thanks for any suggestions.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind 24 ft. rear bath=20
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:00:12 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
For safety you should consider replacing the entire hitch with a new
one. Hitches do wear and do break. Like tires, and groceries, its
something that has been used up and needs to be replaced.
Water Displacer number 40 is very weak at penetrating. It may be almost
as good as straight kerosine, but I have my doubts. If you want to
penetrate rust get either Kroil (www.kanolabs.com) or PB Blaster (used
to be at Walmart but I didn't find it there this week). Remember that a
rusted member means after loosening that its smaller than it was, so its
weaker, possibly much weaker.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:00:19 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Maybe its my air hammer. I've yet to find a task it does anything for
that I can't do better with a plain hammer. Though I did make a custom
punch that allows it to drive nails in corners better than the palm
nailers on the market. Otherwise the air hammer seems only good for
making noise without moving metal.
I don't consider WD-40 to be effective at rust removal. Its never been
more effective for me than applying nothing.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:54:57 -0500
From: "Paul & Trudi Schaefer" <wadenhoe@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re:
Scott,
Re your recent "awnings" posting...we have what appears to be the
original awning for our "60 Overlander: a great heavy canvas thing with
a bead enabling for the railing on the trailer. We have used it several
times but the mystery is that there are no grommets, etc on the awning
enabling us to "tent" the non-trailer side [we have simply cut saplings
and tied them into the fabric, not a great look nor practical!].
Questions:
1. How were the awnings originally supported once away from the rail?
Are there photos?
2. Did people always travel with a ladder to enable them to get up
there and install the awning?
3. What material are you currently using, and are you pleased with the
result?
4. Would you please describe in some detail, or with a sketch, your
current set-up, including poles, dimensions, guying, etc.
Thank you,
Paul Schaefer
'60 Overlander
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 7:02 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC]
VACList-Digest Saturday, April 13, 2002 Issue 272
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Awnings
2. Cracks in Fiberglas or plastic end caps help
3. Re: Cracks in Fiberglas or plastic end caps help
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:21:14 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: Awnings
Steve
Another option for awnings, since you don't like the price (I didn't =
either) is to make (or have made) an old fashioned awning that you slide
= in and out of the existing awning rail, held up with tent poles and
guy = wires. Works for me. Takes two people to put it up, but stays up
well in = inclimate weather, and is only a fraction of the cost.
Scott
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Steve Cook=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:51 AM
Subject: [VAC] Awnings
Hello all-
I have Been shopping for an awning and I was not prepared for the =
results and prices!
Does anyone have a good source for an awning supplier new or used? =
Priced reasonably? or does anyone have an awning , (in any condition) =
to fit a '68 Caravel?
There was an airstream junk yard listing at one point, but I can't =
remember the name.
Thanks-
Steve C.
'68 Caravel in TC, Mich.
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 22:47:36 -0400
From: Blair <blair@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Cracks in Fiberglas or plastic end caps help
My end caps are experiencing some cracks so far not to bad but two have
started and are about 3-4 inches long.
Is there a fix? to stop the crack? To fill the crack after it's fixed?
?????
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Blair
5395
64 25' Tradewind Twin
91 34' Limited
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 05:26:56 GMT
From: tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
Subject: Re: Cracks in Fiberglas or plastic end caps help
> My end caps are experiencing some cracks so far not to
bad but two have
> started and are about 3-4 inches long.
>
> Is there a fix? to stop the crack? To fill the crack
after it's fixed?
> Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Blair
> 5395
> 64 25' Tradewind Twin
> 91 34' Limited
Blair,
Use a small drill bit to drill a hole at the end of each
crack. By small I mean about 1/16" drill bit size or
larger. This procedure is called drilling a "stop drill
hole" as it effectively *stops* this particular crack from
spreading.
A temporary *fix* I think would be to apply a small amount
of silicone sealant to the crack to stop any water leaks.
A permanent fix needs to be discussed with a trailer repair
facility, that is if you wanted to keep the
trailers "original" look and appeal. If you are just
interested in covering the damaged area you could use what
is called a "scab patch". If you can't do this yourself
you'd need to consult with a good sheetmetal mechanic that
is familiar with working on aluminum airplanes, etc.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
1969 29' International
Ambassador
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #272
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 11:36:30 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
From: Terry Tyler, WBCCI 6477 & VAC
To: VACList, VAC Elected Officers 2001-2002
Subj: 25 Year Rule - One Man's Opinion
Hi Fellow Vintage Airstreamers,
The latest VAC newsletter contains a President's Message asking for
discussion about changing the qualifications for vintage status. Currently,
the rule is once an Airstream is 25 years old, it's a Vintage Airstream.
According to President Vogt, consideration is being given to setting cutoff
dates to qualify as Vintage (1968 or 19??) and establishing classifications
of Vintage, such as 1930's, 1940's, etc. for membership grouping.
Do I have anything to say about this idea? Yes, I do. Is it based on facts?
No, it's my opinion and here it is - as plainly as I can say it.
Arbitrarily classifying and dividing Airstream owners into groups on the
basis of the decade in which their Airstream was manufactured seems arrogant
and invasive. Plus, will those of us with multiple Airstreams be assigned to
multiple groups? I believe owners are fully capable of figuring out which
members they will consult in their search for knowledge as well as which
friendships they will form for specific group activities.
My suggestion is to stay with the crisp and clean 25 year rule. Allow each
of us to share the joy of restoring and using our wonderful old vintage
vehicles without being artificially grouped on the basis of the decade our
Airstreams were manufactured.
I have a second thought. It begins with a question. When will mistakes of
the past be recognized in the present and avoided in the future?
In past years, leaders of WBCCI chose to exclude owners and first time
buyers from the organization when they purchased newly manufactured Argosy
and square shaped Airstreams, even though these RVs were bonafide Airstream
products.
At the time, it appeared to me our WBCCI leaders had a strong need to
"divide and conquer" so they could maintain total control of the Club. Their
influence prevailed and as a result, owners of these new products were
effectively locked out of access to leadership roles in WBCCI. Simply put,
they were "excluded" from WBCCI, yet ironically, were " included" in all
Airstream Company events. Divisiveness was at an all time high during those
painful years.
Later, when WBCCI leaders recognized consistent dwindling membership figures
and a continuing loss of money to meet organizational expenses, they changed
the bylaws and suddenly, the rule of exclusion became the rule of inclusion.
They began searching for owners of these Airstream products and encouraging
them to join (and pay dues).
A few who hadn't been totally alienated by past practices did join. It has
been only recently that NEW owners of OLD Argosys and OLD square shaped
Airstreams are beginning to join the WBCCI family. What these new owners
recognize that past leaders did not, is their Airstreams are an integral and
genuine part of Airstream cultural history. Owning an Airstream product is
owning the most recognized RV icon name in the world.
They also recognize that within VAC there is equality among owners of all
models and all years of Airstream products. I believe we need to confirm
this is still the case within VAC. I believe it would be counter productive
and dead wrong to even hint that VAC leaders might consider returning to the
old days of sorting out owners on the basis of which Airstream they owned.
Now, fast forward to the last 10 years. When the fledgling Vintage Airstream
Club came on the scene, they showed uncanny foresight by providing a direct
pathway for including ALL NON-WBCCI owners of ANY VINTAGE Airstream
product.
First, they established a "Friends" route for joining, then developed a free
and comprehensive website which included the most complete archive in the
world on the topic of Airstreaming. Next, they created a knowledgeable email
discussion group which accepted everyone and anyone with an interest in
Airstreams. This was a VAC recruiting coup of major/massive proportions that
occurred independently of WBCCI leadership.
For these and other reasons, hundreds of new owners chose to become
"Friends" of the Vintage Airstream Club. The ground swell of interest and
eventual involvement quickly expanded our membership to over1,000.
It's common knowledge that enthusiasm among owners of Vintage Airstreams is
high at VAC meetings, during VAC rallies and on VAC caravans. With each
successive year, VAC's growth and development surpasses the previous year.
On top of that, the Vintage Advantage news magazine has become a quality
professional publication with worldwide circulation, recognition and
respect. I believe a good share of the intense loyalty toward VAC is due to
us being united as one group, one family of owners.
Hopefully, this phenomena has not been lost on current WBCCI leaders.
There's general awareness among VAC members that it's essential for WBCCI
leaders to demonstrate vision, desire and genuine intitiative if they are
going to make WBCCI a better organization.
In just a decade, VAC efforts have proven we can attract quality people such
as younger folks and families. Not only does this raise the value of being a
member in VAC, it enhances the membership base of WBCCI. This is essential
for continued growth and for fostering a vibrantly active, energetic group.
Only time will show what or if current WBCCI leaders will learn from this.
Another insightful decision by VAC was the establishment of a brand new
WBCCI Unit designed to specifically represent vintage Airstream owners, to
include members from all states in the Union (and including Canada and
Mexico) and to be supportive of WBCCI. The federal district of the United
States was selected to symbolize VAC's goal of inclusiveness. Growth of the
Washington DC Unit continues to exceed any other unit within WBCCI. VAC
meetings are lively and well attended. Their unique rallies occur throughout
the country.
It's now the year 2002 and unfortunately, we're seeing the start of internal
discussion designed to divide VAC membership into discrete groups, one of
which would be based on the year their Airstream was manufactured. To me,
that flies in the face of what we learned from the past. When will mistakes
of the past be recognized in the present and avoided in the future?
In my opinion, we don't need another generation of owners who feel exclusive
at the expense of those being excluded. The slightest hint that divisive
mistakes of past years are about occur again, but this time, within the
Vintage Airstream Club organization could stifly VAC's momentum. That does
not make any sense to me. We need to resist that type of thinking, no
matter how insignificant it may seem to those who are promoting it.
Ten years ago, a group of Airstreamers created this club. They wisely chose
a fully inclusive path for all members. The current VAC leadership should
stay with that crisp and clean 25 year rule. The original thinking of our
founders must be resoundingly confirmed.
Some will disagree with me and pick at parts of what I've written. That's
the price of freedom in America. Bring it on and let's hash it out. This is
our club and our rules. We need to make sure the rules are right for us.
Terry Tyler #6477
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 11:36:33 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: PJM-> vac <63 bathroom removal
on 04/10/02 9:33 PM, celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Thank you for your reply , Herb , the pics were helpful .The tank came out
> easy , I ended up cutting the gray drains , as it looks like they will have to
> be reworked , as my bronze valve assembly is most likely unrebuildable due to
> unavailable parts . Which is a shame because it is really a quality part -
> hate to buy a plastic one -
> when all it needs is new rubber parts .
Chris,
Is it safe to assume you have already considered making the rubber parts? My
local hardware store makes any size or shape rubber gaskets from scratch, so
long as I bring in the broken one or the part which holds the gasket. They
only ask that I give them an hour or so to do it.
Maybe you aren't even talking about gaskets when you mentioned rubber parts.
If so, ignore this post.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:31:18 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <nk7m@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 25 year rule - One Man's Opinion
> From: Terry Tyler, WBCCI 6477 & VAC
> To: VACList, VAC Elected Officers 2001-2002
> Subj: 25 Year Rule - One Man's Opinion
>
> Hi Fellow Vintage Airstreamers,
>
> The latest VAC newsletter contains a President's Message asking for
> discussion about changing the qualifications for vintage status.
Currently,
> the rule is once an Airstream is 25 years old, it's a Vintage Airstream.
>
I have to agree with Terry, wholeheartedly. There was no clear indication of
why the recommendation was made by the President.
Carrying this to extremes, why not a group for each year, or sub-groups such
as Vintage, Antique and Ancient :^).
The current 25 year rule allows for a new crop of members each year, a
continuing resource.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Bob Hightower
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:17:12 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: awnings
Paul,
All the awnings I have seen for RV's have grommets for tent poles with the
exception of something I have seen, I think at Camping World, which has a
self supporting frame. The awning for our home's porch has "pockets" in the
fabric to insert poles. These pockets allow a complete frame to slide in, so
guy wires are not necessary. A nice set up, but more poles than I am
currently willing to lug around with me on the road.
We use a three step, step ladder. Ocassionally we use one of our chairs
also. This has been sufficient for us.
The awning material we use is just run of the mill canvas, purchased at a
canvas/awning shop. They made it to our specs and even had heavy duty poles
available. It is suprisingly light weight. I expected it to be much heavier.
We could of spent extra for lighter weight fabric, but I am happy that we
did not. It is the same color and pattern that is used on most Airstreams -
I think it was called fancy blue. We are very happy with it. After a little
practice it takes us about 5 to 7 minutes to put it up. Perhaps more if the
ground is hard. As for dimensions, let me get back to you on that.
Scott
1960 Overlander
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul & Trudi Schaefer" <wadenhoe@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:54 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
> Scott,
> Re your recent "awnings" posting...we have what appears to be the
> original awning for our "60 Overlander: a great heavy canvas thing with
> a bead enabling for the railing on the trailer. We have used it several
> times but the mystery is that there are no grommets, etc on the awning
> enabling us to "tent" the non-trailer side [we have simply cut saplings
> and tied them into the fabric, not a great look nor practical!].
> Questions:
> 1. How were the awnings originally supported once away from the rail?
> Are there photos?
> 2. Did people always travel with a ladder to enable them to get up
> there and install the awning?
> 3. What material are you currently using, and are you pleased with the
> result?
> 4. Would you please describe in some detail, or with a sketch, your
> current set-up, including poles, dimensions, guying, etc.
>
> Thank you,
> Paul Schaefer
> '60 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:06:31 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Thanks very much for your response. I guess I didn't make the problem
clear. I
don't need any new parts (except possibly the spring, which may be
rusted beyond
use). The problem is, the moving parts inside the coupler --
specifically the ball retaining shoe -- is SOLIDLY STUCK IN PLACE -
rusted, no doubt. I won't have any trouble making it work if I can just
get it apart!
Best regards,
Rik
Gregory Paulsen wrote:
> Rick, if you push the roll pin out that holds the
> release lever in place the ball retaining shoe and spring will fall
> out of the coupler, there is a coupler repair kit made for the older
> Airstream trailers with the Marvel (now Atwood) couplers.
>
> Greg Paulsen
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:14:07 -0700
From: "Sherry" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Blocking diode (?)
Hi all -
This is sort of peripheral to Airstreams but I figure some of you folks
spend a lot more time at the hardware store than I do so here goes -
I have a small solar panel that I use to charge my laptop when I'm working
in the field (I use it for bird banding data). The panel has a cigarette
lighter plug and I use the regular auto adapter for the laptop. Anyway, I
just got a new laptop and suddenly I am draining my battery every time a
cloud goes by (though we don't have many here). This never happened with my
old machine; I think it must have had some sort of built in diode.
I know I need to get something that I can put inline between the solar panel
and the battery which will only allow the power to go one way (like on the
panel I use on my Bambi). Does anyone know exactly what I need (i.e., so I
can just walk in somewhere and say I need a whatchamacallit)?
Thanks for your help - you can reply offline to me at
mailto:sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net.
Happy Trails - Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:46:22 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: 1958 Hitch Needs Help
Gerald,
I've loosened stuff that you'd have sworn was WELDED, it was that
rusty. I've also broken cast iron parts with the air hammer, so you do
have to be careful. Of course, you made a good point about that hitch
perhaps being shot anyway. If the trailer was mine, I'd probably replace
it. Dunno about the 1958, but my 1968 was a 'standard' angle (whatever
that is) and a hitch from Northern looked like it belonged.
We used to use the air hammer with a 'panel cutter' chisel when we were
making drum stoves. It makes SHORT work of cutting the openings in the
drums!
WD-40 works pretty well for me for what it's intended for, but Corrosion
-X is somewhat better, IMO. Everyone has their favorites, and I've not
found one to be markedly better than any other.
<<Jim>>
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
> Maybe its my air hammer. I've yet to find a task it does anything for
> that I can't do better with a plain hammer. Though I did make a custom
> punch that allows it to drive nails in corners better than the palm
> nailers on the market. Otherwise the air hammer seems only good for
> making noise without moving metal.
>
> I don't consider WD-40 to be effective at rust removal. Its never been
> more effective for me than applying nothing.
>
> Gerald J.
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #273
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text