Thanks, Tom, this one goes in the "Print and Keep" file!
Best regards,
Rik
-----Original Message-----
> I haven't scanned all the posts on this problem so probably am only
> restating something already posted.
> I will be replacing sections of flooring in my 50's trailers. I would
> never have considered OSB or any other composition sheets. They don
> not stand up to moisture well at all. I will be using marine grade
> plywood. I is formed with water resistant glues. I once had to make a
> small pool for a tv commercial I was doing sets for and I used 3/4
> inch marine grade plywood. I used a dry powder marine glue and filler
> that I bought at a marine supply store. I mixed a paste to glue the
> seams of the box and I also made a less thick slurry which I used to
> make two coats of filler before I painted it with marine oil based
> paint. I sanded between the coats, of course. The piece never leaked
> and stayed intact in the back yard for ten years where it was tossed
> after the job was done. This experience led me to use the same system
> when repairing floor sections. I have done one small entry section
> already. I applied a paste to the edges of the marine plywood after I
> cut it to fit and then coated the whole piece and sanded it smooth. I
> painted the underside and edges with marine paint, leaving the top
> with just the sanded filler coat so it would take the floor adhesive.
> I expect it to last long after the trailer has been passed on to my
> heirs. The steel underframe in an airstream will collect condensation
> when it is cold and the air has a lot of moisture in it. Wherever the
> frame touches plywood you are looking for dry rot. This is in
> addition to any rain or plumbing leaks that can cause problems. So any
> extra effort to seal out moisture will be well worth the extra time
> and expense. Tom Walden 58 Wanderer, 56 Safari & 96 BVan.