I have a 67 Tradewind and a 67 Globetrotter. Both have a finger width gap
between the bottom of the frame and the top of the axel. The gap is
controlled by the square notch in the trailer flange plate that the axel
shaft fits into. This allows the belly pan to fit between without being
crushed. The two 5/8th bolts and the notch carry the weight of the trailer
on each side.
We installed new Dexter's on the TW in Sep and will install a new Dexter on
the GT next week.
Jim Cooper
> I'm on again in my on and off again '67 Caravel project. Shell is off,
> frame sandblasted and repainted, new axle installed, floor is on, new
> aluminum is cut for the belly pan and I'm working on the wiring. I have
> few
> questions before going any further.
>
> 1. The new axle is a bit different in that the old one attached via
> vertical plates with the bolts horizontal. The new one, apparently to
> work
> for several different applications, has an angle mounting bracket that
> sits
> against the frame so it can be mounted with the bolts either horizontal or
> vertical. The question is this: Does anyone see any reason that I can't
> slip the belly pan between the angle and the frame rather than notching
> around it?
>
> 2. Does anyone see any reason that I can't route the charge line above
> the
> floor so I can put the breaker in an accessible place?
>
> 3. Why is the original wire between the brakes so heavy? The wires
> coming
> from the brakes can't be more than 14 gauge and the hot line seems to be
> 12
> gauge. The original wire connecting the brakes (ground side) must be at
> least 8 gauge. Is there any reason I can't replace that with, say 12
> gauge?
>
> 4. I started cutting insulation to fit this afternoon and started
> wondering
> if there was something better than fiberglass. It seems to me that no
> matter how tight I make the belly pan there will be places where moisture
> gets in, say around the wheel wells or near the front where the aluminum
> is
> cut to fit around the frame.
>
> dan downing