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What happened? It cracked around the dump valve mount. My guess is that
harsh chemicals were used to clean it out at one time and the plastic
hardened. The rest of the tank is still pliable.
A spider pattern around this area would mean that the bottom of the tank
would have to be cut out and replaced. I would not trust a repair that
large. A small hole or crack can often be patched.
To remove the tank:
1: Drill out the rivets and remove the outside dump valve cover. You
will also have to remove two screws from the water heater door. (square
drive, NOT PHILIPS)
2: Un-snap and remove the laundry hamper
3: Un-bolt the toilet. Use a short 1/2 inch wrench, bolts at 10 o'clock
and 4 o'clock.
4: Under the laundry hamper is the toilet shut off valve..turn it off.
5: Take the water supply line off of the toilet.
6: Lift out the toilet.
7: Drill out the rivets on the toilet back splash guard and carefully
remove the panel.
8: Drill out the rivets for the toilet floor. (don't forget the rivets
under front edge trim piece)
9: Un-screw the toilet mount after removing the three set screws. large
Philips)
10: Remove the breather tube. You may have to cut the tube inside the
closet or remove a coupling.
11: Lift out the toilet floor.
12: From outside, take out the screws that hold the dump valve to the Y
connector. You will likely have to cut out the screws due to rust.
13: Pry the dump valve away from the Y connector.
14: From inside, lift up the tank just far enough to remove the level
detector wires. (this is on the side next to the closet wall)
15: Lift out the tank.
See Tim, nothing to it. Takes about 2 hours. The hard parts is getting
all the parts to go back together.
I don't guess anyone just happens to have a spare tank laying around?
Dave Beard