1. How do I remove rivets without damaging the skin?
2. What rivets should I use to reattach everything?
Removing rivets is a simple task. Use an 1/8" drill bit and when ready,
replace with the same size aluminum pop rivet on the belly pay. If replacing where it
will show, use Olympic rivets from several sources including AirstreamDreams or Inland
RV. Don't get the ones with the neoprene washers.
Use Vulkem instead.
First timers can use an automatic center punch
(http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_suppliers.html#tools) later with experience
you'll just put the bit on the rivet head and go.
Use a #22 bit on the bucked rivets and #30 on the pop rivets.
AL - To drill without centerpunching, use split point ("aircraft") bits. They do not
"walk" if held fairly square with the surface.
Good steel propane tanks can have new valves cheaper than new tanks,
sometimes requires an inspection. If a long time since their last
inspection stamp may require a hydrostatic leak test.
AL - I had new OPD valve istalled in my aluminum tank for $20. The serviceman warned
that sometimes the aluminum threads in the tank will strip, necessitating replacement
of the tank. With steel tank this problem will not occur - the brass valve is softer
than the steel.
Yes, the asking price is at least 3 times too much for its condition.
Look further.
AL - Sometimes a trailer is not worth anything - the cost of hauling it is more than
it's worth and who needs a junkyard refugee cluttering up the yard unless you're
parting it out?
My '60 Overlander is also wired all in red with the # of knots distinguishing between
them. Do you have what each one is used for? This info may come in handy in the future.
AL - Electronics suppliers have neat little adhesive wrap-on wire tags. They last
decades unlike tape.
> > Also, when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info, I
> > noticed they claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck,
> > without being grounded to trailer, which is different than I have done in past, I
> > always grounded to white wire in access area, and added an extra for good measure.
> > Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer?
> > Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes, mine's to rusty to tell ...
AL - Electric brakes have to be grounded to the frame, or to the trailer battery
negative, for the breakaway to function.
10 amps per axle is what brake controller instructions say.
My old Spartan's Warner brakes drew 18 amps per axle, then I realized they were 6V
brakes!! The brake controller has to be turned WAY down. If each pair is wired in
series, the current would be 9 amps per axle, about what modern swinging-magnet brakes
draw.