> Q: How do we proceed without loosing the integrity of the
> trailer? More
> specifically, the floor appears to be connecting the shell to
> the frame,
> how can we pull out the rotted sections of floor without the
> gap closing
> between the C Channel and the frame?
As you cut and remove the floor sections, insert plywood blocks to keep
the C Channel up off the frame. Here's an image from the archives that
shows how it's done:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/WorldTraveler800/f
looroffheater.jpg
>
> Q: Secondly, on our 1976 tradewind, when removing parts of
> the floor the
> seams were bolted down with a floor type bolts/screws with a phillips
> type head for removal. This unit has just a flat head, how do
> I remove
> and what do I replace them with???
They are most likely span bolts (a carriage type bolt - no slot).
Access to the nut is from the bottom (requires belly skin removal). If
your belly skin is in great shape and you don't want to disturb it, an
alternative is to test locate the frames (see
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.ht
ml for typical '50s layout) and then remove the plywood between the
frames with a circular saw and remove the nuts from above.
What works good to reinstall the flooring is self-tapping, large head
self-countersinking 1/4" dia sheathing screws. At $0.38 each, they
aren't cheap, but you don't need that many. Requires drilling the frame
to install. Don't know if there is a web source for them (I'll check
later), and they aren't a Home Despot item.
Best of luck,
RJ