The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #99
VAL Digest Friday, December 17 2004 Volume 02 : Number 099
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
[VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
Re: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
Re: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
[VAL] Cargo shifting: Viking jug
[VAL] Cargo shifting: Yet a second Viking jug
[VAL] '54 Liner
Re: [VAL] '54 Liner
Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 04:56:33 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
All,
As usual, Gerald was right and had to post his thoughts to jog my
memory. Of course the outside 12 volt lighting is powered by the tow
vehicle only. Duuh, I can't imagine what I was thinking when I said
otherwise.
Thanks Gerald,
Glyn : - (
> From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 22:42:08 -0600
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
>
> The Airstream interior and exterior lights tend to be very isolated from each
> other except for the porch light. Its part of the interior lighting circuits.
>
> The exterior lights, specifically the marker, backup, stop and turn lamps are
> supplied exclusively by the tow vehicle through the cord that also carries
> brakes. In that cable there is also ground and a battery charging wire for
> the interior 12 volt system. That is the ONLY connection between the
> exterior lights and the interior lights. These exterior lights in late 60s
> Airstreams are wired using copper wire but depend on the trailer skin and
> frame ffor a ground return. Most depend on squeezing plastic for the
> ground connection. Since plastic flows under pressure to relieve that
> pressure ALL those ground connections can be bad. They were on my '68
> Caravel after it had sat a few years since my dad had last used it. Every
> light socket was also corroded and needed cleaning. I replaced the
> plastic post under the marker lights with a combination of an aluminum
> screw using stainless steel shake proof lock washers, aluminum nuts, and
> aluminum connector grease and for 3 years I've not lost a light. Lamb bases
> I polished and coated with silicone dielectric grease (as used in Ford trucks
> on lamps) and they have been almost as reliable. This year the back up
> lamps started working though I didn't work on them. The umbilical cord
> connects to the exterior lamp wires in a wiring compartment covered by a
> plate up front in the belly skin.
>
> Often the umbilical connector is corroded. Its a pain to clean. Its FAR
> faster to go to Wally world and pay $7 for a new Bargman connector and
> replace it than to clean it. Daub a bit of silicone on each connector pin to
> slow corrosion there too.
>
> Interior lights are supplied from the trailer battery (which is charged from
> AC also with a Univolt or better charger). Interior (and the porch) light are
> wired with aluminum wire using switches and wire nuts NOT RATED for
> aluminum connections. Those need reworking with switches and
> receptacles (for the 120 volts too) that are rated for aluminum wire. Most
> home centers carry them but the selection is limited and the prices are
> about $3 each. Wire nuts are harder to find though I have some in my barn
> electrical drawer that are rated for aluminum and copper. Likely those will
> only be found at an electrical distributor. I have broken the boxes and
> mixed them up so I don't know which in the drawer are rated for both
> copper and aluminum so I'll have to find a new box some of these days.
> Fuses and fuse clips are always suspect. Fuses do go open just from age
> and from cycling hot and cold. They corrode too.
>
> I used scotchbrite for polishing and a Ford part number for the dielectric
> grease (as specified for my '86 F-150, though I don't see it in my '98 F-150).
> I
> suspect NAPA generic silicone dielectric grease (as needed ffor high
> voltage ignition wires) will do just fine to keep lamp bases from corroding.
> One brand of aluminum conductor grease (common in the electrical
> departments of home centers and hardware stores) is Noalox. Its used for
> making better connections on aluminum service entrance conductors. It
> contains zinc crystals that break through the oxide inherent on aluminum
> surfaces and grease that keeps oxygen away from that bared aluminum.
> Its good for all connections, even copper wire connections.
>
> There is a wiring diagram in my '68 owner's manual. There may be interior
> wiring diagrams in other vintages of manual.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
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>
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 06:53:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Courtney Gwyn <rufuscourtney@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
Good Morning,
I have a 1963 Globetrotter that I tow with a F350 Diesel Crew cab 4x4 Long bed.
It is lifted moderately- about 4 inches. I noticed that the rear of the truck
seems to be bouncing slightly when I tow. Not alarmingly, just a bit.
I don't have a weight distributing hitch on there because I couldn't get a drop
shank that dropped it low enough for the trailer to sit level.
Even with the regular hitch the nose of the trailer sits slightly higher, maybe
an inch or two.
It has been suggested that:
1. The truck needs shocks.
2. The trailer needs shocks.
3. There is not enough tongue weight.
What are your thoughts/ suggestions?
Where can I get shocks for a 1963 Globetrotter?
Thanks!
Courtney
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 07:06:47 -0800 (PST)
From: William Durkee <wjdurkee@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
The link below is a link directly to Marshall 254 Automatic Changeover at Dyersonline.com
http://tinyurl.com/6sk44
Bill Durkee
69 Sovereign Twin
Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
Chjris:
Automatic Changeover Regulator Item Q on page 121 of the 2004 Camping World
Master catalog.. Item #24030... The change lever resets the indicator on
the top to the tank that the handle points to..I bought one about 4 months
ago and I know for a fact it switches automatically...Club price
$40.49....The Mr Heatrer label is actually a Marshall Regulator...
Jim
At 07:18 PM 12/15/2004, you wrote:
>FYI: camping World got back to me to say that the regulator I'd mentioned
>requires manual switching. I'm on a web hunt for a Marshall automatic.
>Thanks again to all for their help- the depth of knowledge here and the
>willingness to share it is fantastic.
>
>Chris K.
>#8638
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:33:46 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
I yow a 24 ft Tradewind behind a Dodge 250 Cummins Diesel I use no equlizing
hitch and no sway bars with no provlem howeaver I also have about 1000lb toung
weight Inalso use air shocks. I cannot believe that your provlem could be any
thing other then toungh weigh.unless you have screwed the well designed
factory supencion with the lifts.
Jim Smith
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 14:52:28 -0600
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
Note the difference between automatic changeover and the all caps warning
that switching manually is required to "change cylinders" ... That's not
refering to the changing of which cylinder is supplying gas, it's referring
to removing the empty cylinder and changing to a new cylinder on the side
that went empty... If you don't switch the regulator to the the full (now
operating) side before taking the empty cylinder off, you will get some
leakage from the open "empty" side... I did that and noticed the smell
(ethyl mercaptin) used to warn of gas leakage and found it stopped leaking
when I moved the handle to the side now supplying the gas...The indicator
resets and the empty side will become the new reserve side once you refill
the empty cylinder... The regulator will automatically switch the system to
the side you just replaced when the operating side empties... And on and on
whithout ever a cold night... probably called automatic bilateral
switchover by the purists...
Note the regulator is the same as the Mr. Heater model but the old picture
shows the slide switch... The one I purchased has a rotary (lever) handle
that points to the side supplying the gas...
Expect to pay $40 or more depending on the store...
Jim
At 09:06 AM 12/16/2004, you wrote:
>The link below is a link directly to Marshall 254 Automatic Changeover at
>Dyersonline.com
>
>
>http://tinyurl.com/6sk44
>
>
>Bill Durkee
>69 Sovereign Twin
>
>
>Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
>Chjris:
>Automatic Changeover Regulator Item Q on page 121 of the 2004 Camping World
>Master catalog.. Item #24030... The change lever resets the indicator on
>the top to the tank that the handle points to..I bought one about 4 months
>ago and I know for a fact it switches automatically...Club price
>$40.49....The Mr Heatrer label is actually a Marshall Regulator...
>
>Jim
>
>
>
>At 07:18 PM 12/15/2004, you wrote:
> >FYI: camping World got back to me to say that the regulator I'd mentioned
> >requires manual switching. I'm on a web hunt for a Marshall automatic.
> >Thanks again to all for their help- the depth of knowledge here and the
> >willingness to share it is fantastic.
> >
> >Chris K.
> >#8638
> >
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
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>
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>
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:00:51 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
Courtney,
If the truck is bouncing it sounds as if it may need shocks. If the shocks
are good it should bounce once and stop. The trailer shocks should have
little to no effect on the truck, just the trailer. However if they are
originals (they probably are) they are long overdue for replacement. I just
replaced shocks on my '73. Got them from an Airstream dealer---they are
Gabriel T406145A 610816. I am assuming that one shock fits all post 1961
Airstreams. Don't know if any place that handles Gabriels can get them for
you or not.
Your trailer tow vehicle combination should be OK without the weight distrib
bars as your truck is made to support MUCH more weight than the trailer is
placing on it.
Since you have a single axel trailer it is not (in my opinion) critical to
have the trailer level while towing. That said, a level trailer looks MUCH
better going down the road. It will also help avoid scraping the ground
going in and out of steep driveways. The drop bar you need is available.
Keep on looking! I have seen drop bars that make the Reese "deep drop" bar
look puny. Most likely the dealer will have to special order it, and you may
have to look at different brands.
As far as tongue weight. Too much will affect a tow vehicle by overloading
the rear axle and lifting too much off the front axle, however this will not
come into play given your 1 ton truck and small trailer...unless you try to
haul two tons of rock and your Airstream! Too little will affect the
trailer. 10-15% of the total loaded weight of the trailer should be on its
tongue. Less will cause the trailer to wag once you reach highway speeds.
Scott Scheuermann
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Courtney Gwyn" <rufuscourtney@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:53 AM
Subject: [VAL] Towing, Shocks & Tongue Weight
> Good Morning,
>
> I have a 1963 Globetrotter that I tow with a F350 Diesel Crew cab 4x4 Long
bed. It is lifted moderately- about 4 inches. I noticed that the rear of the
truck seems to be bouncing slightly when I tow. Not alarmingly, just a bit.
>
> I don't have a weight distributing hitch on there because I couldn't get a
drop shank that dropped it low enough for the trailer to sit level.
>
> Even with the regular hitch the nose of the trailer sits slightly higher,
maybe an inch or two.
>
> It has been suggested that:
>
> 1. The truck needs shocks.
> 2. The trailer needs shocks.
> 3. There is not enough tongue weight.
>
> What are your thoughts/ suggestions?
>
> Where can I get shocks for a 1963 Globetrotter?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Courtney
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 15:53:10 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Cargo shifting: Viking jug
All,
Today I'm offering up for Cargo Shifting a neat vintage Viking stainless
steel picnic jug. It looks a lot like one currently being offered on eBay.
You can see that one by entering 6139668581 in the eBay search window.
Mind you, that's not the one I'm offering but an image of what mine
looks like.
These jugs were made by Thermos back in the 1950's and the 1960's and
are really lovely to look at and very sturdily built.
If you think you might be able to use it as an enhancement to your shiny
Airstream and are the first to respond to this email, it's be yours. Here's
the hook, all you have to is agree to pay the postage for me to send it to
you. Other than that, it's free for the asking.
Good luck,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:29:15 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Cargo shifting: Yet a second Viking jug
All,
I' offering yet another all stainless steel picnic jug for anyone on the
Airstream List.
It looks a lot like one currently being offered on eBay. You can see
that one by entering 6139668581 in the eBay search window. It differs in
that it has two nesting stainless steel cups instead of the red one shown
and a stainless steel handle with red rubber grip instead of the white
plastic handle as seen in the eBay offering. Other than that, it's pretty
much the same item. Oh, the valve handle is missing the red rubber
covering. Mind you, that's not the one I'm offering but just an image of
what mine looks like.
These jugs were made by Thermos back in the 1950's and the 1960's and
are really lovely to look at and very sturdily built.
I'd like to let someone have a shot at it who has not had cargo shifted
their way before, so if you've gotten some cargo in the past and if you
think you might be able to use it as an enhancement to your shiny Airstream
and are the first to respond to this email, it's yours.
Here's the hook, all you have to is agree to pay the postage for me to
send it to you. Other than that, it's free for the asking.
Good luck,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 21:05:57 -0500
From: "Doc \(The Tin Boat King\)" <fozzie10@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] '54 Liner
After much agonizing (sp)( though I really did want to turn it into a work
shop) I've decided that I'm using my 30ft 2door liner for storage untill after
the holidays. In January I'll clean it out and offer it for sale as is, on
location here. My wife has convinced me that it's a treasure deserving of a
second chance. I have no title or any historic data but I'm told that a
title can be issued as a salvage or lost title (I don't have a clue). I
haven't put a price on it yet but I'm thinking $1500. If I can't sell it
here online I'll put up flyers at the Sarasota (only 45 miles from here)
ralley in Feb. If no one wants it then it'll become a repair shop after
all. Any and all comments are welcome. Guess I'm just not a trailer
person.
Bill Pentheny
Arcadia, Fl.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 21:11:31 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] '54 Liner
Hi Bill,
I am still drooling over that trailer. I really want to take
it away and rehab it. BUT. I have no where to put it.. and
I'm committed to stay here in Ocala until May and then ?
As long as you keep it from leaking when it rains, and don't
throw heavy things at it, it wouldn't be too bad to use it
for a shop. Try to keep any bits you take out and take lots
of pictures. That way when I win the lottery and buy the
ranch ( not the farm...) I can come get it.
Meanwhile, if anyone else will adopt it, my blessings and
keep us posted.
I would still love to come see it when I come down for the
Sarasota Rally..
Daisy
Doc (The Tin Boat King) wrote:
> After much agonizing (sp)( though I really did want to turn it into a work
> shop) I've decided that I'm using my 30ft 2door liner for storage untill after
> the holidays. In January I'll clean it out and offer it for sale as is, on
> location here. My wife has convinced me that it's a treasure deserving of a
> second chance. I have no title or any historic data but I'm told that a
> title can be issued as a salvage or lost title (I don't have a clue). I
> haven't put a price on it yet but I'm thinking $1500. If I can't sell it
> here online I'll put up flyers at the Sarasota (only 45 miles from here)
> ralley in Feb. If no one wants it then it'll become a repair shop after
> all. Any and all comments are welcome. Guess I'm just not a trailer
> person.
>
> Bill Pentheny
> Arcadia, Fl.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:17:24 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
I have been following this thread closely until I realized that I only
have one propane cylinder. Two batteries but just one tank. You're on
your own now.
jo ann
On Dec 2004, at 12:52 PM, Jim Clark wrote:
> Note the difference between automatic changeover and the all caps
> warning that switching manually is required to "change cylinders"
> ... That's not refering to the changing of which cylinder is supplying
> gas, it's referring to removing the empty cylinder and changing to a
> new cylinder on the side that went empty... If you don't switch the
> regulator to the the full (now operating) side before taking the empty
> cylinder off, you will get some leakage from the open "empty"
> side...............
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #99
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