The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #98
VAL Digest Thursday, December 16 2004 Volume 02 : Number 098
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
[VAL] Polishing
RE: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
[VAL] Re:LP dealers
Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
[VAL] Re: LP dealers
[VAL] Double-door Sovereign
RE: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Re: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
RE: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
[VAL] 12 volt light not working
Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
[VAL] Re: LP valves
Re: RE: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
[VAL] Re: LP valves
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 22:58:36 -0800
From: "Marvin W. Murray" <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
About three years ago I stripped and polished my Airstream. On many
occasions after it got dirty I took it to either the 50 cent car wash or
a truck wash that caters to semi's. The harsh soap at one or both of
these places wrecked havoc on my polishing job so this past summer I
repolished it and haven't washed it since. My wife says its filthy but I
tell her I'd rather have it dirty than dulled, stained and streaked. She
therefore thinks I'm nuts.
Now to my question - somewhere under the dirt I hope there is still a
somewhat polished vintage Airstream - what should I use to was it? Dish
detergent and water? Vinegar and water? Any other suggestions? (Please
don't tell me liquid metal polish - my tired old arms can't handle it.)
Marvin Murray
mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 23:22:26 -0800
From: "Marvin W. Murray" <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Polishing
Speaking of polishing, a couple of years ago I visited Madrid, New
Mexico (south of Santa Fe) and saw an early '50's vintage 20' or so
Airstream parked in a lot next to a B&B with the most dazzling polish
job I have ever seen - absolutely mirror like and almost blinding in the
sun. It made my amateur polish job, which I was quite proud of, look
absolutely mediocre. I stopped into the B&B hoping to meet the owner,
but I was told he had gone to see relatives and was then headed to
Colorado to attend a vintage Airstream rally. The B&B owner thought the
polish job had been done by an aircraft polishing guy in California.
Does anyone know the polishing guy he was referring to? If I win the
lottery I'd like to hire him to redo mine.
Marvin Murray
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 23:30:15 -0800
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
When I wash mine I use just a drop of liquid detergent, like dawn or just
whatever my wife has under the counter. But just a small drop, not even
enough to make it sudsy (is that a word ;-)
I only use micro fiber cloths to wash with and rise well with water. Then
dry it with a micro fiber cloth.
I also started waxing it with NuFinish car wax/polish. It works great and
keeps the rain marks off.
Good luck!
- -Tim
www.ldservice.com/tim/tim
> Now to my question - somewhere under the dirt I hope there is still a
> somewhat polished vintage Airstream - what should I use to was it? Dish
> detergent and water? Vinegar and water? Any other suggestions? (Please
> don't tell me liquid metal polish - my tired old arms can't handle it.)
>
> Marvin Murray
> mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 06:47:56 -0700
From: johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
I use water - just water. Don't use dish soap, it will strip any wax/sealer off
pretty quick.
Ken
Quoting "Marvin W. Murray" <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>:
> About three years ago I stripped and polished my Airstream. On many
> occasions after it got dirty I took it to either the 50 cent car wash or
> a truck wash that caters to semi's. The harsh soap at one or both of
> these places wrecked havoc on my polishing job so this past summer I
> repolished it and haven't washed it since. My wife says its filthy but I
> tell her I'd rather have it dirty than dulled, stained and streaked. She
> therefore thinks I'm nuts.
>
> Now to my question - somewhere under the dirt I hope there is still a
> somewhat polished vintage Airstream - what should I use to was it? Dish
> detergent and water? Vinegar and water? Any other suggestions? (Please
> don't tell me liquid metal polish - my tired old arms can't handle it.)
>
> Marvin Murray
> mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 08:03:03 -0600
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Many of the truck washes use an acid wash so I agree you should avoid them.
The 1954 trailer care manual in the VAC archives says to wash the
trailer with
"plenty of good detergent such as Tide, Vel, Fab, Cheer , etc. in a
bucket of water to which has been added 2 cups of kerosene. The kerosene
cuts the raod film and the detergent doesn't leave streaks when it dries
like soap does."
The instructions go on to recommend Glass Wax to protect the bare
aluminum. Glaas Wax is off the market now though.
I used this formula for a year or so until I started using NuFinish car
wax. The kerosene will strip it. So now I just just use a car wash
detergent. Also use microfiber cloth to wash and dry the trailer. A
regular cotton terry towel will scratch a polished trailer.
Also if you try Nufinish car wax always use a buffer to apply and polish
using sweat shirt material over the buffer head. Hand polishing will
leave swirls. NuFinish isn't as hard to use as is the aircraft polish.
It seems to add some protection from rain oxidation.
Marvin W. Murray wrote:
> About three years ago I stripped and polished my Airstream. On many
> occasions after it got dirty I took it to either the 50 cent car wash
> or a truck wash that caters to semi's. The harsh soap at one or both
> of these places wrecked havoc on my polishing job so this past summer
> I repolished it and haven't washed it since. My wife says its filthy
> but I tell her I'd rather have it dirty than dulled, stained and
> streaked. She therefore thinks I'm nuts.
>
> Now to my question - somewhere under the dirt I hope there is still a
> somewhat polished vintage Airstream - what should I use to was it?
> Dish detergent and water? Vinegar and water? Any other suggestions?
> (Please don't tell me liquid metal polish - my tired old arms can't
> handle it.)
>
> Marvin Murray
> mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:05:47 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
Gerald,
I'm glad you don't think I'm nuts! As I told someone else,
I fear gasoline more than propane! Propane is very easy
to work with.
Paul
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
> Paul Waddel said:
> >Alan,
> >
> >One other thing you can do is have your local propane
> >dealer install tank at your house (I think they call them
> >250lbs tanks). Have them install a "dip tube" valve that
> >goes to the bottom of that tank. This way you will be able
> >to draw "liquid" propane of the big tank off the bottom. Connect a "fill
> >hose or connector hose" from the large tank(liquid side) to the tank you
> >want
> >to fill. Crack ...
>
> That's exactly how farmers with LP gas tractors and schools with LP gas
> busses fill them.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 08:17:07 -0600
From: "D.L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
Filling tanks this way is OK, BUT one must know what they are doing.
Things can go wrong very fast even to the most informed.
OPD valves can over fill if left connected for a long time.
All this must be done in an OPEN area with NO sparks around
The liquid can spirt in your face so protect your eyes.
It will spirt liquid when you remove the hose from the tank.
That is just a small part of the dangers of filling your tanks.
And yes I fill my own tank from my 1000 gal. bulk tank too.
73
Dean W5GXL
612-605-7208 Home
712-270-2000 Cell
dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net
On Dec 14, 2004, at 11:52 PM, Dr. Gerald Johnson wrote:
> Paul Waddel said:
>> Alan,
>>
>> One other thing you can do is have your local propane
>> dealer install tank at your house (I think they call them
>> 250lbs tanks). Have them install a "dip tube" valve that
>> goes to the bottom of that tank. This way you will be able
>> to draw "liquid" propane of the big tank off the bottom. Connect a
>> "fill
>> hose or connector hose" from the large tank(liquid side) to the tank
>> you
>> want
>> to fill. Crack ...
>
> That's exactly how farmers with LP gas tractors and schools with LP gas
> busses fill them.
>
> Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 07:29:45 -0700
From: MJ Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
My house here in NM has a 500 gallon propane tank in the back yard.
Never having dealt with a bulk tank before, I was unfamiliar with what
the extra piping was for, so I asked the delivery guy what it was . He
kind of looked at me like I wanted to know what's the green stuff under
my feet.
Lot cheaper than taking the trailer tanks to the hardware store, and a
little (17 miles) closer too!
;^)>
Matt
Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
><snip> Propane is very easy
>to work with.
>
>Paul
>
>
><snip>
>
>>That's exactly how farmers with LP gas tractors and schools with LP gas
>>busses fill them.
>>
>>Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:36:53 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:LP dealers
I have a great guy here who charges by the gallon!
My next adventure will be my house in the hills with two 150gal tanks!
I shudder to think about the bill when I need them filled!
AlanT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:44:37 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP retailers
I have a handbook that I found at a book fair once. Its titled "A Practical
Guide to LP Gas Utilization." Surely there are more recent editions, perhaps
even parts are on-line. It has everything any LP seller would ever want to
know including a lot on safety.
If the slight bit of ammonia in some dish soaps is a problem, there are
products made for finding leaks that should be safe for fittings. Sold in some
RV catalogs. No matter the material, leak testing is a must and it should be
done more often that it generally is. the vibration of travel will loosen fittings.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:44:33 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: LP dealers
I can remember paying 13 cents a gallon for house propane, back about
1972. It was worth shopping for price then and it still is. That was from a farm
coop, the dealer that was selling here before was getting 16 cents a
gallon, but he billed me twice for the same delivery so I went shopping.
In the last couple weeks, the delivery ticket was for several hundred
gallons and its price is $1.34 a gallon. My aunt in SE Missouri where most
burn wood paid $1.69 a gallon. She doesn't own the tank, I suspect there's
some of that charged for tank rent.
These days the coops best offers are for summer fill, then in the late summer
they offer prepriced contracts for the winter fills. Some of them require you
buying all, some have an ending date and some neglect to make the last
fill until after the contract period. Read EVERY bit of the fine print in such a
proposed contract. Then ask other customers about how they actually
deliver. You don't really want to pay the price of that last delivery after the
fixed price contract has run out most of these times because that fill will be
at a much higher price. I've not bit on one of those contracts. My next
place won't use LP or natural gas at all.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:12:56 -0600
From: "Brian Jenkins" <jenkins1924@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Double-door Sovereign
Hello All,
I think that's a pretty rare Airstream. Look at page 130 of "Airstream, The
History of the Landyacht".
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 18:18:16 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Bobby,
Here are two pictures of the frame. I thought I could find something like
it at a aluminum window site but haven't had any luck. I've also included a
powerpoint drawing which is drawn to size. If you can't read the powerpoint
slide, let me know and I'll give you a description. Thanks for your help.
Pete
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 12:04 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Pete
Send me a photo if you can with some measurements of the extrusion your
looking for. I may have some or I could make it if it's not to large. Are
you
looking for the T angle or U channel?
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: KVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAAL
I check
some web sites for the aluminum but haven't found anyone who would do a
small job. I'm not able to paste a drawing of the extrusion in the email,
but it looks something like this (not to scale), with the right edge bent
about 30 degrees up. _
|
_|
_|
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame1.jpg]
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame.jpg]
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd]
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 17:42:25 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Pete,
You cannot send attachments to the list. All attachments are automatically
stripped from messages sent to the list to prevent someone from forwarding
viruses to all of the list members.
What you can do, is to post the pictures to the new photo gallery. Not
difficult at all! To access the gallery, go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/gallery/albums.php. You will have to register,
and then, when registered, login and create an album. At that point, it is
simply a matter of uploading the pictures from your hard drive. The
drawing, if it is in a regular image format, should be uploadable as well.
Finally, you can clean up the descriptions etc. of the various pictures.
Take a look at some of the existing albums to see what others have done.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 4:18 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
> Bobby,
> Here are two pictures of the frame. I thought I could find something like
> it at a aluminum window site but haven't had any luck. I've also included
> a
> powerpoint drawing which is drawn to size. If you can't read the
> powerpoint
> slide, let me know and I'll give you a description. Thanks for your help.
> Pete
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 18:53:34 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Thanks Tom,
I knew that but put the wrong address in the TO block. It was meant to go
direct to Bobby.
Sorry about the confusion.
Pete
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Tom Patterson
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 6:42 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trying to build access doors
Pete,
You cannot send attachments to the list. All attachments are automatically
stripped from messages sent to the list to prevent someone from forwarding
viruses to all of the list members.
What you can do, is to post the pictures to the new photo gallery. Not
difficult at all! To access the gallery, go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/gallery/albums.php. You will have to register,
and then, when registered, login and create an album. At that point, it is
simply a matter of uploading the pictures from your hard drive. The
drawing, if it is in a regular image format, should be uploadable as well.
Finally, you can clean up the descriptions etc. of the various pictures.
Take a look at some of the existing albums to see what others have done.
- -Tom
- ----- Original
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 17:58:34 -0600
From: "Craig C." <craigcar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
I've been told all regular detergents will strip car wax. A special
detergent for autos is recommended (I usually buy whatever Target is
carrying when I need a fresh jug ... right now I have "Zip Car Wash" on
hand).
Craig
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 18:06:07 -0600
From: "Craig C." <craigcar@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Oops. I should have read Herb Spies' fine reply before sending off my
comment about car wash detergent. I defer to Herb's much more complete
answer.
Craig
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 18:27:51 -0600
From: Cheyanne & Randy <bayoubuddies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
The 12 volt lights in our Airstream are dying one at a time. The
entire curb side went out at one time, and now the bedroom light over
the bed is out. The outlets still work. only the 12 volt is involved.
Anyone have any idea at all what could be wrong before I have to call
an electrician? Thanks in advance.
Cheyanne
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 19:51:49 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
Cheyanne,
Just a guess, but have you checked the 12V fuses?
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Cheyanne & Randy"
... The entire curb side went out at one time...
...Anyone have any idea at all what could be wrong before I have to call
> an electrician? Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheyanne
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 17:35:14 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
Cheyanne,
What I'm about to share with you below is also just a guess but if your
Airstream is anything like our 1969 caravel, it may apply.
All our 12 v. exterior lighting is non operable with the exception of
the porch light and can the problem can be traced to a single problem. The
hookup cable from the vehicle at the tongue runs aft and enters through a
hole in the inner skin at the very rear roadside. From there it should
branch out to all the lighting systems but doesn't because the rubber
grommet for that hole (if there was ever one there) is long gone and the
wires are all frayed and parted as a result of being cut by the sharp edge
of the hole.
You might want to trace that cable back to where it enters your unit to
see if they are intact. The fact that they are going out one at a time on
the outside suggests that it could be caused by that. There's a case to be
had to the contrary though, given that you say the interior light over the
bed has also gone out. Scott suggests that you check the fuses, so that
might give you two problem sources to suspect.
I have yet to repair my electrical problem despite having localized it.
In my case it requires removal of the head and holding tank in order to gain
working access to the offending hole where the frayed wires are. There is
only about 1 3/4" between the after part of the inner skin where the hole is
and the back of the holding tank, not enough to get in there to splice the
wires back together again. All this is located in the streetside aft corner
of the "trunk" of our '69 Caravel.
You don't say what year Airstream you have so yours might be physically
different but nonetheless, the wires have to get from outside to inside
somewhere and then to the Univolt or whatever charging/power source you have
so start at the cable and work your way back along its length until you spot
a trouble area.
I recently bought what appears will be a very valuable tool for
identifying each wire. It's something that there was some recent discussion
about here on this List. It consists of a palm sized, battery powered tone
transmitter that you clip to a given wire. Then with the separate receiver
in hand (about the size and shape of a fat felt marker), you touch its point
to one wire after another until you hear a tone emitting from it. You now
know that you have the same wire hooked up at both ends with this neat
gadget. As I recall, I got it at Home Depot for under $30.00 to $40.00.
Good luck and let all know how it all comes out.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA (where it was almost 80 degrees today).
> From: Cheyanne & Randy <bayoubuddies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 18:27:51 -0600
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
>
> The 12 volt lights in our Airstream are dying one at a time. The
> entire curb side went out at one time, and now the bedroom light over
> the bed is out. The outlets still work. only the 12 volt is involved.
> Anyone have any idea at all what could be wrong before I have to call
> an electrician? Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheyanne
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 20:18:41 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: LP valves
FYI: camping World got back to me to say that the regulator I'd
mentioned requires manual switching. I'm on a web hunt for a Marshall
automatic.
Thanks again to all for their help- the depth of knowledge here and the
willingness to share it is fantastic.
Chris K.
#8638
<www.koehnjourney.com>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 20:34:21 -0600
From: eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
Subject: Re: RE: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
Hello,
To tell the truth, I have used nothing but water to wash my polished 68. Even
after a 4 week trip that is what I did with great results. Even with road grime
it seems to work. The trick? warm water, a good lambs wool mit, lots of clean
water. I often change the water 4 or 5 times a wash to keep from scratching the
polishing job.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
PS I don't use soap on the cars either, that would include the 75 Travelall, IHC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 1:30 am
Subject: RE: [VAL] Washing my polished '76 Tradewind 25'
> When I wash mine I use just a drop of liquid detergent, like dawn
> or just
> whatever my wife has under the counter. But just a small drop,
> not even
> enough to make it sudsy (is that a word ;-)
>
> I only use micro fiber cloths to wash with and rise well with
> water. Then
> dry it with a micro fiber cloth.
>
> I also started waxing it with NuFinish car wax/polish. It works
> great and
> keeps the rain marks off.
>
> Good luck!
>
> -Tim
> www.ldservice.com/tim/tim
>
> > Now to my question - somewhere under the dirt I hope there is
> still a
> > somewhat polished vintage Airstream - what should I use to was
> it? Dish
> > detergent and water? Vinegar and water? Any other suggestions?
> (Please> don't tell me liquid metal polish - my tired old arms
> can't handle it.)
> >
> > Marvin Murray
> > mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> text
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 21:02:49 -0600
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LP valves
Chjris:
Automatic Changeover Regulator Item Q on page 121 of the 2004 Camping World
Master catalog.. Item #24030... The change lever resets the indicator on
the top to the tank that the handle points to..I bought one about 4 months
ago and I know for a fact it switches automatically...Club price
$40.49....The Mr Heatrer label is actually a Marshall Regulator...
Jim
At 07:18 PM 12/15/2004, you wrote:
>FYI: camping World got back to me to say that the regulator I'd mentioned
>requires manual switching. I'm on a web hunt for a Marshall automatic.
>Thanks again to all for their help- the depth of knowledge here and the
>willingness to share it is fantastic.
>
>Chris K.
>#8638
><www.koehnjourney.com>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 22:38:58 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
Could be a mouse in the house! It's that time of year!
Paul Waddell
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Cheyanne & Randy" <bayoubuddies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 7:27 PM
Subject: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
> The 12 volt lights in our Airstream are dying one at a time. The
> entire curb side went out at one time, and now the bedroom light over
> the bed is out. The outlets still work. only the 12 volt is involved.
> Anyone have any idea at all what could be wrong before I have to call
> an electrician? Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheyanne
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 22:42:08 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt light not working
The Airstream interior and exterior lights tend to be very isolated from each
other except for the porch light. Its part of the interior lighting circuits.
The exterior lights, specifically the marker, backup, stop and turn lamps are
supplied exclusively by the tow vehicle through the cord that also carries
brakes. In that cable there is also ground and a battery charging wire for
the interior 12 volt system. That is the ONLY connection between the
exterior lights and the interior lights. These exterior lights in late 60s
Airstreams are wired using copper wire but depend on the trailer skin and
frame ffor a ground return. Most depend on squeezing plastic for the
ground connection. Since plastic flows under pressure to relieve that
pressure ALL those ground connections can be bad. They were on my '68
Caravel after it had sat a few years since my dad had last used it. Every
light socket was also corroded and needed cleaning. I replaced the
plastic post under the marker lights with a combination of an aluminum
screw using stainless steel shake proof lock washers, aluminum nuts, and
aluminum connector grease and for 3 years I've not lost a light. Lamb bases
I polished and coated with silicone dielectric grease (as used in Ford trucks
on lamps) and they have been almost as reliable. This year the back up
lamps started working though I didn't work on them. The umbilical cord
connects to the exterior lamp wires in a wiring compartment covered by a
plate up front in the belly skin.
Often the umbilical connector is corroded. Its a pain to clean. Its FAR
faster to go to Wally world and pay $7 for a new Bargman connector and
replace it than to clean it. Daub a bit of silicone on each connector pin to
slow corrosion there too.
Interior lights are supplied from the trailer battery (which is charged from
AC also with a Univolt or better charger). Interior (and the porch) light are
wired with aluminum wire using switches and wire nuts NOT RATED for
aluminum connections. Those need reworking with switches and
receptacles (for the 120 volts too) that are rated for aluminum wire. Most
home centers carry them but the selection is limited and the prices are
about $3 each. Wire nuts are harder to find though I have some in my barn
electrical drawer that are rated for aluminum and copper. Likely those will
only be found at an electrical distributor. I have broken the boxes and
mixed them up so I don't know which in the drawer are rated for both
copper and aluminum so I'll have to find a new box some of these days.
Fuses and fuse clips are always suspect. Fuses do go open just from age
and from cycling hot and cold. They corrode too.
I used scotchbrite for polishing and a Ford part number for the dielectric
grease (as specified for my '86 F-150, though I don't see it in my '98 F-150). I
suspect NAPA generic silicone dielectric grease (as needed ffor high
voltage ignition wires) will do just fine to keep lamp bases from corroding.
One brand of aluminum conductor grease (common in the electrical
departments of home centers and hardware stores) is Noalox. Its used for
making better connections on aluminum service entrance conductors. It
contains zinc crystals that break through the oxide inherent on aluminum
surfaces and grease that keeps oxygen away from that bared aluminum.
Its good for all connections, even copper wire connections.
There is a wiring diagram in my '68 owner's manual. There may be interior
wiring diagrams in other vintages of manual.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 22:42:28 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: LP valves
The catalog I quoted from came from Webster City (Iowa) RV. They have a
web page and an on-line catalog at www.webstercityrv.com. I wasn't able
to access the catalog with my old browser but you might. They do say they
will ship anywhere in the USA.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #98
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