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VAL Digest V2 #77


VAL Digest         Thursday, November 25 2004         Volume 02 : Number 077




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Awning Question
[VAL] Awning question
Re: [VAL] Re: Hum
Re: [VAL] Toilet gasket.
[VAL] question
Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
Re: [VAL] Awning question
RE: [VAL] question
Re: [VAL] question
Re:[VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
[VAL] Toilet gasket update
Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.

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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:35:35 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Awning Question

There was a message posted at one time about used Zip Dee Awning parts, and 
other trailer parts along with those SOB trailers.

Have you searched the archives?

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Courtney Gwyn" <rufuscourtney@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 9:03 PM
Subject: [VAL] Awning Question


> Hello All,
>
> I was thinking how nice my 63 Globetrotter would look with a nice Zip Dee 
> awning. Then I started thinking how many days I'd be eating tuna fish 
> until it was paid for.
>
> How much does one of those things cost anyway? Is there a source for a 
> used one?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Courtney
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:20:50 -0600
From: "William Alpert" <wbalpert@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Awning question

Courtney ask:
  
 I was thinking how nice my 63 Globetrotter would look with a nice Zip Dee
awning. Then I started thinking how many days I'd be eating tuna fish until
it was paid for.
  
 How much does one of those things cost anyway? Is there a source for a
used one?
  
Try Colaw RV in Carthage Missouri on I-44 1 exit east of Hwy 71. 
www.colawrv.com  They are a very large RV salvage yard with about 2 dozen
Airstreams and 100's of SOBs.  They usually sell used Zip Dees for $2 a
foot.  You install it or they will for a fee.  They will ship parts
nationwide but an awning might be expensive to ship.  Call the 800 number
to see.  They can tell you what sizes and colors are available.  There are
probably other salvage yards around the country.

Zip Dee has a web site also.  They're in a Chicago suburb at the north end
of O'Hara Airport.  They will send you info and color samples.  They also
have overnight hookups for customers.  They even reinstall awnings.

Maybe a spring trip through Missouri and Chicago would solve your problem.

Somebody once told me, "Buy the best and only cry once."  More often, I
find myself understanding, "Poor people have poor ways."

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 07:13:24 -0800
From: "Dr.Gerald N. Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Hum

Yes, the Univolt needs a battery to give smooth dc power to the radio. Since 
you have AC power, you might want to run an AC radio or get a power supply 
(such as might be used to run a CB in the house) to run the radio until you 
do have a battery.

Gerald J.

Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, Electrical Engineer
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Duane Middlebrook [mailto:middledn@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
Sent: 11/23/2004 9:17:44 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Hum

> "Most battery chargers add some AC ripple depending on the battery to 
> clean it up enough for most uses. Radios are most sensitive to that 
> ripple. 
> The classic Univolt also has an acoustical hum that annoys many, 
> especially when its under their bed at night."
>  
> Thanks, Dr. J.!  this must be the problem.  The coach doesn't have a battery! 
> Having read about potential bad interactions between the Univolt and batteries, I 
> wasn't in a hurry to fix this and put it on the spring fix-up projects list.  The 
> ground wire doesn't have a terminal post connector, and the slide-out battery tray 
> is broken.
>  
> The Univolt acoustical hum doesn't bother me.  The Univolt is in the bottom 
> of the bathroom closet, so I keep the sliding bathroom door closed.
>  
> Are there any additional ill effects of operating the Univolt without a battery?  
> Does anyone know what battery group size fits in the Argosy battery compartment?
>  
> Duane Middlebrook
> 76 Argosy 24
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:30:14 EST
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet gasket.

Glyn: Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 16:39:56 -0000
From: "JT Price" <jtprice@xxxxxxxxxx.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: [VAL] question

I have a 6.7mtr Argosy Minuet manufactured May 1978.

(a) Was the standard original exterior colour white?

(b) The rear marker light (left hand side) lens glass is broken and the
fibreglass roof vents (1 large & 2 small) located at the rear end of the roof
section of the trailer are also broken, is it possible to obtain either
original or replica parts for these items please?

Please note I am UK based.

Thanks in anticipation for any help you may offer.

Regards.

David Sweetmore
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.4.1 - Release Date: 19/11/04

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:34:01 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.

Subject: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.


>     All,
>
>     I'd love to access the space beneath and aft of  my curbside pullout
> berth more easily and to that end, it occurred to me to find a used access
> door and install it.  The problem is that it would have to be located
right
> on the rib at the end cap, what I understand to be a no-no.
Glyn,

My 57 Sovereign of the Road and my 59 Ambassador International both have
access hatches for the fridge straddling ribs so I guess it would be OK, as
Wally must have approved.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 10:10:26 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.

    Colin,

    Thanks, the reports coming back to me suggest that the frame of the door
is sufficient to at least equal the strength of the removed rib section.

    Glyn

> From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:34:01 -0800
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
> 
> Subject: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
> 
> 
>> All,
>> 
>> I'd love to access the space beneath and aft of  my curbside pullout
>> berth more easily and to that end, it occurred to me to find a used access
>> door and install it.  The problem is that it would have to be located
> right
>> on the rib at the end cap, what I understand to be a no-no.
> Glyn,
> 
> My 57 Sovereign of the Road and my 59 Ambassador International both have
> access hatches for the fridge straddling ribs so I guess it would be OK, as
> Wally must have approved.
> Colin
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 10:45:20 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Awning question

Bill:
   Thanks for your post re awnings. I have a Bubble and I think the 
awning would be nifty also but aside from looks, just how much shade 
can a little 6 or 8 ft awning give you.
   I especially liked your words of wisdom about crying once - I'm the 
world's worst for buying "bargains" and then having to eventually go 
back and get what I really wanted - paying twice as it were. I remember 
hearing "Men will pay $4.00 for a $2.00 item that they need while women 
will pay $2.00 for a $4.00 item they don't need". As sexist as that may 
sound, I must admit there's a lot of truth in it - never can resist a 
SALE!!
Jo Ann
On Nov 2004, at 6:20 AM, William Alpert wrote:

>
> Somebody once told me, "Buy the best and only cry once."  More often, I
> find myself understanding, "Poor people have poor ways."
>
> Bill
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:12:53 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] question

Greetings David!

Welcome to the List!

The standard exterior color was a very light beige with orange vinyl
inserts in the beltline and rub-rail moldings.  The following
information was posted to the list by Charlie Burke several years ago
regarding the recent paint code equivalents for the Argosy:

Upper body color: DuPont Centari #44534-A Light Beige

Lower banana skin: Lilly Coatings #7641-A Metallic Brown 
(this bottom color various with different models-this
was appropriate for the 1976 Argosy, 24 ft.)

The original colors were provided by Lilly Industrial Coatings. In 1988
Airstream published a list of Dupont Centari substitute numbers. Based
on
that list the Argosy colors through 1977 were:

Upper--Light Beige 44534-A

Lower--Metallic Brown 44721-AM

The '78 Minuets trim color was a much lighter/brighter color than the
standard coaches in '78 - - much more on the burnt orange/orange
metallic spectrum.  In observing the new automobiles, the '78 Minuets
had a copper metallic color utilized on the banana wraps, hitch, LP
tanks, and rear bumper that is quite similar to the Sunburst Orange
Metallic currently being offered by Chevrolet on the Colorado pickup
line - - in fact, this is the color that I am planning to utilize on my
'78 Minuet 6.0 Metre.  The original colors had lead and other components
that the US EPA no longer permits in paints so the modern equivalents in
the US aren't exact matches.

The marker light lenses as well as the tail light lenses are readily
available.  My Airstream dealer, Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, Iowa was
able to order an entire set of new replacement lenses for my Minuet from
one of their regular suppliers.  I suspect that if you contact Florence
or Christy in the Parts Department they could obtain the parts and
arrange international shipping.  You can find them on the web at:
http://www.acefogdallrv.com/index.html.

The small, round bathroom exhaust fan and cover are readily available
from several sources.  My Airstream dealer was able to supply the
necessary parts to restore the bathroom vent in my Minuet.  The standard
roof vents (14" x 14") are available, but you might want to consider
what many have been doing here in the US - - the Fantastic Vent fans
replace the original vents beautifully and provide much better
ventilation than the original Airstream components (IMHO).  You can find
the Fantastic Vents via:  http://www.fantasticvent.com/.  If you want to
keep the original Airstream vents, the covers can be replaces but I
don't think that you will find new replacements made from aluminum - - I
believe that the new replacement covers are either fiberglass or Lexan.

If what you need are the plumbing vent stack covers, there isn't an
exact replacement available.  The usual solution is to utilize the
plumbing vent stack covers and gaskets designed for Airstream.  These
have a polished finish but fit the Argosy with minimal modification.
Again, the part should be readily available from an Airstream dealer's
parts department.

I suspect that you will need to cultivate a relationship with a dealer
located in the US or Canada who will assist you in obtaining the parts
that you need.  There are a number of Vintage Friendly dealers here in
the US, Ace Fogdall was closest to me when I first started restoring my
Airstream so I have continued to do business with them despite having
moved more than 500 miles from their location.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin


Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of JT Price
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 10:40 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] question

I have a 6.7mtr Argosy Minuet manufactured May 1978.

(a) Was the standard original exterior colour white?

(b) The rear marker light (left hand side) lens glass is broken and the
fibreglass roof vents (1 large & 2 small) located at the rear end of the
roof
section of the trailer are also broken, is it possible to obtain either
original or replica parts for these items please?

Please note I am UK based.

Thanks in anticipation for any help you may offer.

Regards.

David Sweetmore

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:59:49 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] question

According to factory records for the 1978 model years the Argosy travel 
trailers were the following colors:

Upper (from the rubrail up) DuPont Centari 44534-A  Light Beige
Lower (from the rubrail down) DuPont Centari 44767-AM Metallic Gold

1978 was the only year the Argosy Lower was Metallic Gold. Prior years 
were Metallic Brown.
In the 1979-80 model years the entire coach was Alpine White

It would be necessary to decode the VIN number to know for sure the 
model year of your coach. The build date is very close to the model year 
change over date.
Unless the coach was renumbered for UK sales the VIN should be a 9 digit 
number. The 5th digit denote the model year. So a 1978 would have an 8 
for the 5th digit, a 1979 would have a 9. Titles and bills of sale are 
notorious for being inaccurate references for determining model years. 
The VIN number is the best source.

The light len's and the large vent lids are still available.
The large vent lids should be radius cornered 14" X 14". Older styles 
were metal while current replacements are all translucent white plastic. 
They are referred to as Hammond vent lids. They are still available 
through Airstream dealers. Be sure to get the 1" X 1"vent gasket when 
you order as the gasket is not included with the lid.
The tail light lens were originally Monarch lens. They are also still 
available through an Airstream dealer.
The marker light len's are Peterson #138's and they are available 
through many sources including Airstream and most RV accessory outlets

Charlie

JT Price wrote:

>I have a 6.7mtr Argosy Minuet manufactured May 1978.
>
>(a) Was the standard original exterior colour white?
>
>(b) The rear marker light (left hand side) lens glass is broken and the
>fibreglass roof vents (1 large & 2 small) located at the rear end of the roof
>section of the trailer are also broken, is it possible to obtain either
>original or replica parts for these items please?
>
>Please note I am UK based.
>
>Thanks in anticipation for any help you may offer.
>
>Regards.
>
>David Sweetmore
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.4.1 - Release Date: 19/11/04
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:50:33 -0800
From: Rob Super <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re:[VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.

'nother possibility:

Depending upon how big the door will be, where the rib falls and what 
you want to put in there, it might be possible to simply let the rib 
pass uncut through the  door opening. If the rib is right at the edge 
of the opening this would result in a slightly narrower usable width; 
otherwise you end up dividing the usable opening into two smaller 
openings: that could still be OK, depending upon what has to pass 
through--the actual storage space would be unaffected. In either case, 
when closed the door would look "normal".

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 18:33:26 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Toilet gasket update

    All,

    I got the foam rubber gasket today and although it looks significantly
different from the old one, I can see no reason why is shouldn't work
perfectly.  

    The old one was 7" in diameter with a 3 3/4" hole in the center.  What I
got today is 4 3/4" in diameter and has a 3 1/4" inner hole.  I just went to
the garage and tried it on the underside of the toilet.  With a very slight
effort, it slipped over the 3 3/4" flange.

    So for all those of you who might have ordered one based on my (and
Gerald's)part numbers, have faith, it should work just fine for you.

    Glyn

> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 12:02:31 -0800
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet gasket.
> 
> All,
> 
> To all who kindly responded to my call for toilet gasket help, a great big
> thanks.
> 
> The item, a Closet Flange Seal, is ordered and winging its way to me as I type
> this.  With that last critical part, I can at last reinstall my Thetford
> toilet and come out of the closet once and for all.  ; - )
> 
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel #508
> Santa Monica CA
> 
>> From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2004 21:47:36 -0700
>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet gasket.
>> 
>> You can get a replacement at Marksrv.com - don't use a household ring - not
>> needed and it will make a mess.
>> 
>> Ken
>> 
>> At 02:41 PM 11/19/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>>> All,
>>> 
>>> I have my vintage Thetford Aqua-Magic Model #70 on the workbench and am
>>> going through it.
>>> 
>>> The 35-year old rubber seal that joins the bottom of it to the hole in
>>> the floor is pretty much shot.  It appears to be a form of black, closed
>>> cell foam, 7" in diameter with a 3 3/4" hole in the center and two 1/4"
>>> holes for the bronze mounting bolts.  A call to Thetford resulted in zip.
>>> The woman there didn't even know what I was talking about.
>>> 
>>> Is this a standard item that I might find at a large RV supplier or am I
>>> going to have to improvise?  All ideas and suggestions are welcome.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Glyn
>>> 
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>> 
>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>> 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 18:44:29 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.

    Rob,

    If I do find a door, (roughly 24" wide by 20" high), I'll be forced to
almost center it on the aft rib.  there's no flat aluminum behind the cap
seam and the wheel well comes too close to be able move it forward of that
rib.  If I did move it forward, it might give me no more than 4-5" off
center.  

    Based on what others have shared with me regarding the strength of the
door frame making up for the removal of the rib section, I feel confident
that the whole idea will work just fine.

    All that said, I'm still open to any and all ideas on the subject.

    Glyn

> From: Rob Super <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:50:33 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re:[VAL] Weakening a rib for want of a door.
> 
> 'nother possibility:
> 
> Depending upon how big the door will be, where the rib falls and what
> you want to put in there, it might be possible to simply let the rib
> pass uncut through the  door opening. If the rib is right at the edge
> of the opening this would result in a slightly narrower usable width;
> otherwise you end up dividing the usable opening into two smaller
> openings: that could still be OK, depending upon what has to pass
> through--the actual storage space would be unaffected. In either case,
> when closed the door would look "normal".
> 
> Rob
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #77
************************


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