The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #60
VAL Digest Monday, November 8 2004 Volume 02 : Number 060
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] hitches - what is SOB?
Re: [VAL] hitches - what is SOB?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #59
[VAL] Re: Nightmare
[VAL] living with a charge wizard
Re: [VAL] living with a charge wizard
[VAL] RE: Nightmare at Inland RV
Re: [VAL] Re: Nightmare
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #59
[VAL] sway control-hitches
[VAL] Re: Extensive Work
[VAL] Re: Inland RV
Re: [VAL] sway control-hitches
[VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
[VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
[VAL] Popping up from lurkdom, msg 1;-)
Re: [VAL] Re: Marine Propane Fireplace
[VAL] Our camping trips
[VAL] adding axles
Re: [VAL] Our camping trips
Re: [VAL] Re: Marine Propane Fireplace
Re: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
Re: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
Re: [VAL] sway control-hitches
Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
[VAL] RE: Questions -Now- Start up amps
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2004 22:32:36 -0800
From: "MK / JS" <sn2244@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] hitches - what is SOB?
re: hitch conversation - what does SOB mean, in this vintage airstream
context, of course. (refer to Dr Gerald posts - VAL 59)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 01:36:54 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hitches - what is SOB?
S ome
O ther
B rand
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "MK / JS" <sn2244@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 1:32 AM
Subject: [VAL] hitches - what is SOB?
> re: hitch conversation - what does SOB mean, in this vintage airstream
> context, of course. (refer to Dr Gerald posts - VAL 59)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 00:47:39 -0800
From: "Kathryn L. hunt" <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #59
For your information, Pearl Main had to sue also.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 05:58:34 EST
From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Nightmare
I too had weird vibes from that Andy at Inland..plus there was a story on the
AS Forum of him hanging up on someone's wife after calling her names. The
post was deleted shortly after it was posted. I assume by the moderator. Where
there's smoke there's fire.
Ann Dunham
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 08:13:19 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] living with a charge wizard
Hello all-
This summer I replaced the Univolt in our '79 Int'l Sovereign with an
Inellicharger with charge wizard. I'm curious about the experience of
others with this funny little fellow. It seems as though when the
wizard is in boost mode (light is on without blinking) It audibly
cycles on and off roughly every 30 seconds. When it cycles on, the
lights grow brighter; when off, they get dimmer.
The charge wizard performs admirably when it's in "normal" mode-
indicated by fast flashing. No variation in light level. But after
we've boondocked for a few hours and the battery needs a bit of a
charge, it goes back in to boost mode.
Wondering if this is normal and I just need to learn to live with it,
or...?
Thanks!
Chris K.
#8638
In eastern PA, headin' south soon..
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 08:33:43 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] living with a charge wizard
Hi Chris,
I don't see how it can be in boost mode if you are not hooked up to
shore power.
At any rate, I have never had that problem with my set up, I wonder if
your charge wizard is being cranky because your battery is tired. The
only sound I hear is the fan coming on when I'm using a fair amount of
power.
Daisy
Chris Koehn wrote:
> Hello all-
>
> This summer I replaced the Univolt in our '79 Int'l Sovereign with an
> Inellicharger with charge wizard. I'm curious about the experience of
> others with this funny little fellow. It seems as though when the wizard
> is in boost mode (light is on without blinking) It audibly cycles on and
> off roughly every 30 seconds. When it cycles on, the lights grow
> brighter; when off, they get dimmer.
>
> The charge wizard performs admirably when it's in "normal" mode-
> indicated by fast flashing. No variation in light level. But after we've
> boondocked for a few hours and the battery needs a bit of a charge, it
> goes back in to boost mode.
>
> Wondering if this is normal and I just need to learn to live with it,
> or...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chris K.
> #8638
> In eastern PA, headin' south soon..
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:19:26 -00
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] RE: Nightmare at Inland RV
>From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>Subject: RE: [VAL] Nightmare at Inland RV
It may not be much consolation but there are many other AS owners who
Andy and Inland has "stuck it to" over the years, it is good that you
posted your experience here with him so others who may consider using
his "service's" will reconsider and go to a more reputable AS dealer.
You should also send your experience to the pres. of AS and let him
know what kind of dealer they have in him, also post it on
www.airstream.com forum to let even more owners know what kind of
person and place they are. We put alot of time and money in our AS's
and we dont need that kind of dealer to give our hard earned time and
money to.
John
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 07:22:14 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Nightmare
All,
I guess I should wade in here too to relate my three much smaller
experiences with Inland. I won't go into excruciating detail or but will
just say that in one case, he personally said he'd try to locate a length of
odd shaped curtain track I needed for my Caravel (I'm sure you all remember
my bugging the list for this item). I didn't hear from him and called once
several weeks later, only to be told in rather curt terms that he was still
working on it and had to contact Airstream about it and that I would hear
from him with the result. That one-sided, mildly exercised blast warned me
off sufficiently that I didn't ever call back again, nor did I ever hear
from him on the subject.
Lesson #1 learned.
The other two incidents related to ordering and getting certain parts
that were represented as being what I was either told I needed or what I
asked for, neither of which worked and were items I finally offered to the
List as Shifted Cargo. One item, 10 fuzzy brackets for the window control
rods were said by the folks there to be for '69 Airstreams and just that
year, only to turn out not to fit whatsoever (too short a slot for the throw
of my rods) and by the time I found this to be the case with all the other
projects I was in the midst of, the magic 10 days had elapsed and I was
essentially told to go pound sand when I called to return them for credit.
I think that item alone was near the $80 to $100 area of cost.
Lesson #2 learned.
The other occurred more recently when after asking if the width of a
certain part was greater than 1/4" so as to stay in a slot, I was asked to
drive there to measure it myself (from Santa Monica). I finally did get a
call back from that member of the staff assuring me that the part was as I
had hoped it would be, greater than 1/4".
They shipped, I measured, it was smaller than 1/4", I called to attempt
a return and was told that the measurement was carefully determined before
shipment, that I had been told of a 10% restocking fee at the time (not!)
and that that phone exchange was clear in the staff members mind because of
their having to measure (improperly) the parts.
ed. Duuh, how hard is it to measure to see if a part is either greater
than or smaller than 1/4" wide? Will it or will it not fall out of a 1/4"
slot? This is not rocket science.
We're talking about curtain slides here, not at all a cumbersome part to
measure.
I'd estimate that we're talking in the neighborhood of $10 plus
shipping, not a lot of money really but I had been told one thing for
certain only to see that it wasn't the case. Lesson #3 learned.
It's been my experience in all business and nonprofit organizations that
scat runs down hill. That is to say that when a business philosophy is
established at the top, whether for good or ill, it's reflected, nay
mirrored in the practices and attitudes of the staff lower down on the food
chain. Sadly, I once again feel that my suspicions have been confirmed in
this case and not for the good of all involved on either side of the sales
counter.
Thrice burned, forever warned.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
> From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 05:58:34 EST
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Nightmare
>
> I too had weird vibes from that Andy at Inland..plus there was a story on the
> AS Forum of him hanging up on someone's wife after calling her names. The
> post was deleted shortly after it was posted. I assume by the moderator.
> Where
> there's smoke there's fire.
>
> Ann Dunham
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 07:22:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Donald Binkley <binkbug@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #59
- -----Original Message-----
From: VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Nov 6, 2004 10:00 PM
To: valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: VAL Digest V2 #59
VAL Digest Sunday, November 7 2004 Volume 02 : Number 059
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO THE ABOVE MESSAGE...many of you are replying to the entire
VAL list and not removing the original lengthy message...one gripe about dealing
with Inland RV is all I need....not repeats with your comments!!! Please be more
considerate....the administrator is not responsible for your mail!!! THANKS
Don/ 1969 Caravel
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 09:31:51 -0600
From: Rick Davis <k8doc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] sway control-hitches
More sway control info-for whatever it may be worth.
The first thing to keep in mind is that sway control devices are an after
market product.
Virtually all but the smallest new trailers are individually towed to the
dealer by transport drivers typically using 3/4 or 1ton pick ups using a
load equalizing hitch but with out any kind of sway control.
While accidents do happen from time to time they generally are due to bad
judgement. I do not personally know of any that were a result of sway. By
sway I mean repeated oscillation, not the one time wiggle caused by a
passing truck.
Years back, a post by Charlie Burke said his dealership recommended that a
trailer owner try towing his unit with out sway control first and then
decide if he wanted to add it or not.
At the time I questioned this , however after 6 years and several hundred
thousand miles as a transport driver i now feel it was sound advise.
I have only had one poor handling trailer over the years . On that basis I
am inclined to feel if the trailer handles poorly with out sway control
there is a problem with either the trailer or tow vehicle that needs to be
found and only then should the sway control be added as an extra safety device.
There are two common types of sway control, both with their good and bad
points.
The dual cam uses cams on the equalizing bars to hold the truck and trailer
in a straight line. It works quite well but has to be set up carefully and
load distribution can not be changed easily to accommodate special
circumstances.
The friction control basically works like a brake, resisting a change in
the position of the trailer in relationship to the tow vehicle. It is
easily adjustable.
Both work well under good conditions and are frequently used in combination.
When snow or ice is encountered is when sway control becomes undesirable if
not downright dangerous. This is because it wants to keep the trailer
straight behind the vehicle, or in the case of friction in, some position.
( if on a curve ) when it is necessary to turn and it is very slick the
vehicle will not want to turn because of the device and the trailer will
not want to follow.
The friction control can be easily disabled simply by loosening the
adjustment, however the only way to disable the dual cam is to drop the
equalizing bars. This of course put a lot more weight on the back which
will help traction but may have an adverse affect on steering as weight
comes off the front.
keep in mind also that speeds will be quite low under these driving conditions.
Of course under these circumstances getting off the road as quickly as
possible is the best advice but in practice can be difficult at times.
Many accidents are a result of trying to go "just one more exit"
I have sway control on some of my trailers and none on others and am not
advocating any one not use it or any other safety device,
just making the point that it should be a safety aid, not a cover up for an
underlying problem
Rick Davis 1602
54 safari, 61 tradewind, 69 ambassador, 70 globe trotter.
past pres. VAC
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 10:39:06 -0500
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Extensive Work
After having taken two trailers to the A/S plant for major work I
maintain that the only place to go to be sure the work is done
correctly is the plant. It may not be the cheapest option but you get
questions answered right away, an estimate of the work to be done and
the best mechanics in the business to do the work. I'm pretty handy but
I know my limitations and want to spend my money wisely. I've gone to
the plant for work four different times with two different trailers
since 2001 and was happy each time. You can stay with your trailer over
night, get to go into the bay and talk to the mechanics as they do the
work and actually see what all is being done. I learned a lot about my
Flying Cloud by watching the guys pull it apart and put it back
together.
When I left the FC for the winter Rick March emailed me every week with
an update of what had been done. The mechanic who did most of the work
called me every Friday to tell me what was happening and ask if I had
any questions. They even installed a window awning at the International
for me. And when I called on the road and told Rick that the trailer
really needed to be lifted he said to stop by on the way home and they
would figure out how to do it! The mechanic who did that work sent his
wife on a 50 mile round trip to pick up a U-bolt that A/S didn't have
in stock so that I wouldn't be held up at the plant any longer waiting
for one to be shipped! That's service!!!
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 10:57:21 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Inland RV
In a message dated 11/6/2004 11:01:27 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
>> Oops, I thought I was replying to an individual, not the list.
GREAT JOB!
He's been slammed a few times on here and has always deserved it!
I too have had a go around or two with the man!
I was just telling someone about him yesterday and said "APPROACH WITH
CAUTION"
His temper and behavior is going to be his businesses demise eventually!
AlanT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 17:02:27 +0000
From: c-l@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] sway control-hitches
A couple of things to bear in mind,
1. When loading your trailer, balance the load, Airstreams are a very balance
trailer. donnt put all the heavy stuff in the back, or front or on one side or
the other. Spread it out.
2. Hitch height is very important, as well as the tilt of the ball. To high
shifts tthe balance to to rear of the trailer, to low adds more tongue weight.
Somewhere, in the Airstream archives, there is a list with the trailers, weight,
ball height.
Good Luck,
Chuck & Lynn
1965 Overlander
1949 Airstream Southwind
1960 Tradewind Int.
- -------------- Original message --------------
> More sway control info-for whatever it may be worth.
>
> The first thing to keep in mind is that sway control devices are an after
> market product.
>
> Virtually all but the smallest new trailers are individually towed to the
> dealer by transport drivers typically using 3/4 or 1ton pick ups using a
> load equalizing hitch but with out any kind of sway control.
> While accidents do happen from time to time they generally are due to bad
> judgement. I do not personally know of any that were a result of sway. By
> sway I mean repeated oscillation, not the one time wiggle caused by a
> passing truck.
>
> Years back, a post by Charlie Burke said his dealership recommended that a
> trailer owner try towing his unit with out sway control first and then
> decide if he wanted to add it or not.
> At the time I questioned this , however after 6 years and several hundred
> thousand miles as a transport driver i now feel it was sound advise.
>
> I have only had one poor handling trailer over the years . On that basis I
> am inclined to feel if the trailer handles poorly with out sway control
> there is a problem with either the trailer or tow vehicle that needs to be
> found and only then should the sway control be added as an extra safety device.
>
> There are two common types of sway control, both with their good and bad
> points.
> The dual cam uses cams on the equalizing bars to hold the truck and trailer
> in a straight line. It works quite well but has to be set up carefully and
> load distribution can not be changed easily to accommodate special
> circumstances.
>
> The friction control basically works like a brake, resisting a change in
> the position of the trailer in relationship to the tow vehicle. It is
> easily adjustable.
>
> Both work well under good conditions and are frequently used in combination.
>
> When snow or ice is encountered is when sway control becomes undesirable if
> not downright dangerous. This is because it wants to keep the trailer
> straight behind the vehicle, or in the case of friction in, some position.
> ( if on a curve ) when it is necessary to turn and it is very slick the
> vehicle will not want to turn because of the device and the trailer will
> not want to follow.
>
> The friction control can be easily disabled simply by loosening the
> adjustment, however the only way to disable the dual cam is to drop the
> equalizing bars. This of course put a lot more weight on the back which
> will help traction but may have an adverse affect on steering as weight
> comes off the front.
> keep in mind also that speeds will be quite low under these driving conditions.
>
> Of course under these circumstances getting off the road as quickly as
> possible is the best advice but in practice can be difficult at times.
> Many accidents are a result of trying to go "just one more exit"
>
> I have sway control on some of my trailers and none on others and am not
> advocating any one not use it or any other safety device,
> just making the point that it should be a safety aid, not a cover up for an
> underlying problem
>
>
>
>
> Rick Davis 1602
> 54 safari, 61 tradewind, 69 ambassador, 70 globe trotter.
> past pres. VAC
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 12:42:26 EST
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Hello all: I wanted to briefly report on my heater work and to thank those
who gave me suggestions. Glyn....sorry but it looks like I will be keeping the
heater as my repairs actually WORKED! I was able to get the old Suburban out
and take apart the fan assembly. I took the motor down to a local shop and
they replaced the brushes for $20.00.
I could not find rubber washers to replace the 4 old ones so I had to
fabricate some new ones. The auto parts store had some gasket material that was the
same thickness as the asbestos gaskets so I cut some of that and used it as a
replacement. Both fans were not perfectly balanced but no one could fix that.
I put them back and made sure the allen screws held them tight. I cleaned
everything I could reach, put it all back in and it fired right up. Very quiet
now.
Now on to the next problem. The ceiling light over the fold out kitchen
table at the front of the AS doesn't work. There is no current reaching the hot
wire leading to the light. All other power sockets and lights work in the
trailer. I have replaced the bulb (circular) but as I said, the tester indicates
no power getting to this light. Is this a fuse? If it is, I can't find a
burnt fuse anywhere. Where else might I look. Not being particularly
electrically minded....this has me stumped.
Tom Fairbank
1969 25ft Tradewind
Layton, Utah
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 09:52:15 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Tom,
Good for you that you got your heater up and running.....quietly. Not
to worry, I'll find another one on down the road.
I wish I could help regarding your front overhead light.
You didn't say if it had worked for you before. Have you done any 12v
electrical work that might suggest a place to start looking for an open
circuit, etc.?
Good luck. I'm sure you'll find the problem and it'll be a very simple
one,
Glyn
> From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 12:42:26 EST
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
>
> Hello all: I wanted to briefly report on my heater work and to thank those
> who gave me suggestions. Glyn....sorry but it looks like I will be keeping
> the
> heater as my repairs actually WORKED! I was able to get the old Suburban out
> and take apart the fan assembly. I took the motor down to a local shop and
> they replaced the brushes for $20.00.
> I could not find rubber washers to replace the 4 old ones so I had to
> fabricate some new ones. The auto parts store had some gasket material that
> was the
> same thickness as the asbestos gaskets so I cut some of that and used it as a
> replacement. Both fans were not perfectly balanced but no one could fix that.
> I put them back and made sure the allen screws held them tight. I cleaned
> everything I could reach, put it all back in and it fired right up. Very
> quiet
> now.
> Now on to the next problem. The ceiling light over the fold out kitchen
> table at the front of the AS doesn't work. There is no current reaching the
> hot
> wire leading to the light. All other power sockets and lights work in the
> trailer. I have replaced the bulb (circular) but as I said, the tester
> indicates
> no power getting to this light. Is this a fuse? If it is, I can't find a
> burnt fuse anywhere. Where else might I look. Not being particularly
> electrically minded....this has me stumped.
>
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 25ft Tradewind
> Layton, Utah
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 10:00:44 -0800
From: "Wayne Mrazek" <wmrazek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
I had a similar expense a while back, though the estimate was "only"
exceeded by 60%, or $1200. Payment was demanded in cash or cashiers check,
a sure sign he knows his customers are not very satisfied. This list has
supported Andy, due to his extensive experience, and probably also due to
his exclusive reserve of new parts. I have not said much about my
experience in deference to what I think are the wishes of the list, however,
I am still upset by this, the biggest scam I have ever experienced. In my
case, when I asked why I wasn't notified when the quote was being exceeded,
he starting screaming at me that I wanted the work done "on a silver
platter". I actually created a web page with scanned receipts and details
of the transaction, but stopped short of posting it. Issues like months of
delay, or paying $185 for a new door look, getting home and finding out I
couldn't latch the door from the inside are common. When I disassembled the
lock to find out what was wrong, I found that my original parts with wear
had been put back in! Only the exposed parts were new!
Sueing may not be easy. I found to the best of my knowledge, auto mechanics
operate under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of
Auto Repair (BAR), who is very aggressive about controlling these types of
activities. We were unable to find a BAR license for Inland RV, and
therefore the BAR can't help in disputes. He seems to be operating in a
gray area that may not require BAR control. I filed with the BBB, the first
time I have ever complained to them. He is apparently much more familiar
with dealing with BBB than I am, unfortunately.
This brings back bad feelings, but if I can help someone else avoid a
similar experience, it was worth it.
Wayne
62 Bambi
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Nightmare at Inland RV
>
> On Saturday 06 November 2004 01:25 pm, Brian Brown wrote:
> > why don't you sue him
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:41 PM
> > Subject: RE: [VAL] Nightmare at Inland RV
> >
> at the very least the portion paid with a credit card could be claimed
through
> the credit card company. That is why Andy wouldn't take a credit card for
> payment on balance.
>
html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:40:53 -0800
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Popping up from lurkdom, msg 1;-)
a long time ago, I asked for information regarding our '67 furnace. A
number of people chimed in on the subject, but I never did get back. Some
concerns where rasised as to the safety of the furnace, location of same,
fire extinguishers, and other such.
We went to our local fire department, to see if they had a carbon monoxide
sniffer. They didn't. But, we have a CO2 detector that my hubby had bought
for one reason or another. We have had it in the house, monitoring the CO2
levels. Had quite a scare with it, as it showed the levels to be very high
in the winter. Since our main heating source is outside, we were really
puzzled...anyway everything fine. We put the unit in the trailer, and fired
up the furnace. We did have to take it out and wiggle it around a bit. The
reset button was no longer working properly, but it now is. Everything on
the furnace seemed to be working tickety-boo. The trailer is parked right
outside our bedroom window, and we were able to monitor the meter easily
from the comfort of our house. We could tell when the furnace kicked in, as
the levels did go up, but they did not go up all that great. We ran the
furnace for a good week, keeping an eye on it.
One comment that was raised was about fire, fire extinguishers, and getting
out of the trailer if the furnace did catch on fire. We have a fire
extinguisher beside the door, beside the furnace (more for the stove), and
in the bathroom. For an escape, the bathroom has this lovely picture window
in it. We are also going to put a fire extinguisher in the truck, and in
one of the outside hatches. Yes, we do have a lot of fire extinguishers..
We have since gone on a few camping trips, where everything has been great fun!
Sharon, in BC
1967 safari
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:52:05 -0800
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Marine Propane Fireplace
Does this heater draw the air for combustion from the stack also? The
web site says the combustion process is completely isolated from the
inside of the boat (or trailer, in this case).
Best regards,
Rik
Patricia V. Raimondo wrote:
> Yes Dave, that is the exact one I put in my FC. I did an internet
> search and found it a lot cheaper at a marine supply place in Calif. I
> think I paid $475 for it. It heats my 21 ft. trailer to around 70 deg.
> with the blower on in the dead of winter!! The furnace in Pearl was in
> the floor and I didn't want it there so I switched to the fireplace.
> Besides great heat it looks so peaceful watching the flames burn. It
> vents out the roof so doesn't need a window cracked. I'm VERY happy
> with it. If anyone wants a photo of it installed in my FC email me.
>
> Patti
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:51:32 -0800
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Our camping trips
We bought our trailer in May of 2003. The tin house literally did not turn
a wheel for a year. Didn't even bring it home! This year, we have made up
for lost time.
We started with a quick weekend in June, when we went to a Combined Drive
and volunteered. Trailer was great. Sure appreciated that bathroom. After
that, we went to Barkerville. That was well worth the trip. We are going to
go again when we can spend more time there, and when it is not pouring
rain! The weather was great during the day, just soft, but we found the
leaks in the roof that night. Sure appreciated the bathroom when it was
pouring buckets, pitch black, and I was not too sure where the bathrooms
were...
We also went down to the Kootenays, and visited with my hubby's relatives
that he has not seen in 18 years. That was grand. Spent a night in Nakusp
in the hotsprings, and that was beyond grand! I had never managed to get my
honey into water before (as in public) I dragged him in, then I had to drag
him out. It really helped his arthritis (duh!) In fact, we are going again
this weekend...
No sooner had we come back from that holiday, we went camping in Merritt
with my folks for thanksgiving. This was the first time that we used the
furnace, and it was sure fine to be nice and warm. We did make sure that a
vent was cracked. No worries about the windows, as they are far from tight.
We are going again this weekend coming up, and that might be it for this
year. But, we are thinking of closing up the house, and heading down to the
states for some of January. Maybe to California, or maybe over Texas way.
Not too sure.
We are going to have to figure out the cheap way of doing things, too.
Makes our money more available for doing fun stuff!
Sharon, in BC
1967 safari
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:58:23 -0800
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] adding axles
We have a single axle trailer. We really like this trailer, except that it
has only one axle, that is also nearing the end of its life.
Has anyone changed their single axle trailer to a tandem? We do know
that weight and balance will be an issue. Keeping in mind that my hubby is
perfectly capable of doing the work. Just takes him awhile!
Sharon, in BC
1967 safari, with the aging axle
oh yeah, I forgot
1986 F250 supercab 4 X 4 Diesel <--NEW! Used to be 1979 F250 gas Rocket
Kansas and Sage, our two doggies
and the husband Nick
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 14:09:43 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Our camping trips
All,
Sharon's mention in her note below of leaks in the overhead brings to
mind a product I've used on our boat several times over the years that might
be worth sharing with you.
It's called Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (honest). For those of
you with a 2004 West Marine catalog, it's on page 460. The catalog shows a
$13.99 cost for 2 ounces, enough to last 10 lifetimes of small leaks you'll
experience.
This stuff is milky white and about as viscous. It's applied along a
seam or anywhere a pesky leak has been located. Several applications at 20
minute intervals will, in most cases, seal the leak permanently. It
migrates into the inner reaches of the leak and then cures in place.
Mind you, this is not for tears in the skin, it's for irritating small
leaks that have you tearing your hair out trying to seal once and for all.
Get a bottle today, (I have no economic interest in this great product,
darn it).
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
> From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:51:32 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Our camping trips
>
> We bought our trailer in May of 2003. The tin house literally did not turn
> a wheel for a year. Didn't even bring it home! This year, we have made up
> for lost time.
>
> We started with a quick weekend in June, when we went to a Combined Drive
> and volunteered. Trailer was great. Sure appreciated that bathroom. After
> that, we went to Barkerville. That was well worth the trip. We are going to
> go again when we can spend more time there, and when it is not pouring
> rain! The weather was great during the day, just soft, but we found the
> leaks in the roof that night. Sure appreciated the bathroom when it was
> pouring buckets, pitch black, and I was not too sure where the bathrooms
> were...
>
> We also went down to the Kootenays, and visited with my hubby's relatives
> that he has not seen in 18 years. That was grand. Spent a night in Nakusp
> in the hotsprings, and that was beyond grand! I had never managed to get my
> honey into water before (as in public) I dragged him in, then I had to drag
> him out. It really helped his arthritis (duh!) In fact, we are going again
> this weekend...
>
> No sooner had we come back from that holiday, we went camping in Merritt
> with my folks for thanksgiving. This was the first time that we used the
> furnace, and it was sure fine to be nice and warm. We did make sure that a
> vent was cracked. No worries about the windows, as they are far from tight.
>
> We are going again this weekend coming up, and that might be it for this
> year. But, we are thinking of closing up the house, and heading down to the
> states for some of January. Maybe to California, or maybe over Texas way.
> Not too sure.
>
> We are going to have to figure out the cheap way of doing things, too.
> Makes our money more available for doing fun stuff!
>
> Sharon, in BC
> 1967 safari
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 14:37:58 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Marine Propane Fireplace
Rik,
If the heater in question has two stainless steel stacked bells on deck
(one for intake & one for exhaust), then it is totally separate from the
inside cabin air.
I can send you a couple images (inside and out) as examples of that
heater installed in two boats I know of that are a part of my Ericson 31
sailboat registry. Please let me know and I'll shoot them to you back
channel.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
http://e31.no-ip.com
> From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:52:05 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Marine Propane Fireplace
>
> Does this heater draw the air for combustion from the stack also? The
> web site says the combustion process is completely isolated from the
> inside of the boat (or trailer, in this case).
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>
> Patricia V. Raimondo wrote:
>
>> Yes Dave, that is the exact one I put in my FC. I did an internet
>> search and found it a lot cheaper at a marine supply place in Calif. I
>> think I paid $475 for it. It heats my 21 ft. trailer to around 70 deg.
>> with the blower on in the dead of winter!! The furnace in Pearl was in
>> the floor and I didn't want it there so I switched to the fireplace.
>> Besides great heat it looks so peaceful watching the flames burn. It
>> vents out the roof so doesn't need a window cracked. I'm VERY happy
>> with it. If anyone wants a photo of it installed in my FC email me.
>>
>> Patti
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 15:15:23 -0800
From: Tim S <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
Just like to speak up and say the I have had some problems dealing with
inland as well.
I have found an alternate place to buy vintage parts from who know what
they are doing. Its oasisrv.com. They have always been polite and
knowlegable. And charge a decent shipping amount.
So I get all my vintage parts there now.
- --
Tim S <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:40:01 -0500
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
Thank you Tim,
This kind of information helps everyone. An alternate place to purchase
parts beside Inland.
After reading all the post about "Andy" at Inland, I would never do business
with him/them.
Brian Brown
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim S" <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Nigtmare at Inland RV
> Just like to speak up and say the I have had some problems dealing with
> inland as well.
>
> I have found an alternate place to buy vintage parts from who know what
> they are doing. Its oasisrv.com. They have always been polite and
> knowlegable. And charge a decent shipping amount.
>
> So I get all my vintage parts there now.
>
> --
> Tim S <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:42:07 -0500
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] sway control-hitches
Here is the link to the Weights of AS on the AS company website. Very
helpful
http://www.airstream.com/airstream/product_line/customer_service/docs/weights-1.pdf
.
Brian Brown
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <c-l@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] sway control-hitches
>A couple of things to bear in mind,
> 1. When loading your trailer, balance the load, Airstreams are a very
> balance trailer. donnt put all the heavy stuff in the back, or front or on
> one side or the other. Spread it out.
> 2. Hitch height is very important, as well as the tilt of the ball. To
> high shifts tthe balance to to rear of the trailer, to low adds more
> tongue weight.
>
> Somewhere, in the Airstream archives, there is a list with the trailers,
> weight, ball height.
>
> Good Luck,
> Chuck & Lynn
> 1965 Overlander
> 1949 Airstream Southwind
> 1960 Tradewind Int.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> More sway control info-for whatever it may be worth.
>>
>> The first thing to keep in mind is that sway control devices are an after
>> market product.
>>
>> Virtually all but the smallest new trailers are individually towed to the
>> dealer by transport drivers typically using 3/4 or 1ton pick ups using a
>> load equalizing hitch but with out any kind of sway control.
>> While accidents do happen from time to time they generally are due to bad
>> judgement. I do not personally know of any that were a result of sway. By
>> sway I mean repeated oscillation, not the one time wiggle caused by a
>> passing truck.
>>
>> Years back, a post by Charlie Burke said his dealership recommended that
>> a
>> trailer owner try towing his unit with out sway control first and then
>> decide if he wanted to add it or not.
>> At the time I questioned this , however after 6 years and several hundred
>> thousand miles as a transport driver i now feel it was sound advise.
>>
>> I have only had one poor handling trailer over the years . On that basis
>> I
>> am inclined to feel if the trailer handles poorly with out sway control
>> there is a problem with either the trailer or tow vehicle that needs to
>> be
>> found and only then should the sway control be added as an extra safety
>> device.
>>
>> There are two common types of sway control, both with their good and bad
>> points.
>> The dual cam uses cams on the equalizing bars to hold the truck and
>> trailer
>> in a straight line. It works quite well but has to be set up carefully
>> and
>> load distribution can not be changed easily to accommodate special
>> circumstances.
>>
>> The friction control basically works like a brake, resisting a change in
>> the position of the trailer in relationship to the tow vehicle. It is
>> easily adjustable.
>>
>> Both work well under good conditions and are frequently used in
>> combination.
>>
>> When snow or ice is encountered is when sway control becomes undesirable
>> if
>> not downright dangerous. This is because it wants to keep the trailer
>> straight behind the vehicle, or in the case of friction in, some
>> position.
>> ( if on a curve ) when it is necessary to turn and it is very slick the
>> vehicle will not want to turn because of the device and the trailer will
>> not want to follow.
>>
>> The friction control can be easily disabled simply by loosening the
>> adjustment, however the only way to disable the dual cam is to drop the
>> equalizing bars. This of course put a lot more weight on the back which
>> will help traction but may have an adverse affect on steering as weight
>> comes off the front.
>> keep in mind also that speeds will be quite low under these driving
>> conditions.
>>
>> Of course under these circumstances getting off the road as quickly as
>> possible is the best advice but in practice can be difficult at times.
>> Many accidents are a result of trying to go "just one more exit"
>>
>> I have sway control on some of my trailers and none on others and am not
>> advocating any one not use it or any other safety device,
>> just making the point that it should be a safety aid, not a cover up for
>> an
>> underlying problem
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Davis 1602
>> 54 safari, 61 tradewind, 69 ambassador, 70 globe trotter.
>> past pres. VAC
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 23:25:53 EST
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Glyn: I hadn't done any electrical work at all. All lights etc. have always
worked.
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 21:15:50 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
Tom,
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 23:25:53 EST
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater repair 1969 Tradewind
>
> Glyn: I hadn't done any electrical work at all. All lights etc. have always
> worked.
>
> Tom
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 23:14:26 -0600
From: "William Alpert" <wbalpert@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] RE: Questions -Now- Start up amps
You wrote:
>
> Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:24:34 -0600
> From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> I don't see the start-up amps mentioned in the documentation.
> The Coleman unit comes from Airxcel, Inc. however, and there is a lot of
> documention on their website in PDF format. To get it, go to
> http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/products/rooftop/Stan_mach3_1.php. The PDF
> file links are in the box on the left side of the web page.
Look in the documentation for "Locked Rotor" or "LR Current." That should
be the same as start up amps. That's the figure to use if you need to know
whether a generator puts out enough to start the air conditioner. (amps x
volts = watts)
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #60
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