VAL Digest V2 #6

VAL Digest Tuesday, September 14 2004 Volume 02 : Number 006




-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Gaucho slide construction
Re: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction
[VAL] Paint for ABS Plastic?
[VAL] LED trailer lights follow up
[VAL] Swiss Festival Rally?
Re: [VAL] Silicone
Re: [VAL] Tappan range
Re: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction
[VAL] A question for 1969 owners
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
RE: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
RE: [VAL] 49 Liner
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
[VAL] Los Banos
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 01:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: M Tate 
Subject: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction

Good morning all,
First, thanks to all who responded to my question about where I might get old style 
12 volt lights for my '65 Overlander. I plan on going to Montevallo and checking out 
the place there.
Second, I am sure that this has been discussed before, but I don't remember. On my 
Gaucho, I have a piece of the slides on the bottom of the seat of the couch as well 
as a piece of the slide fastened to the framework with a hinge that would be located 
on the end of the slide facing the front. I see that the slides are dovetailed and a 
slide stop of sorts is intact, but the slides are separated. How are the slides held 
together? Is there a "key" of wood that fits into the dovetails? Do they overlap, this 
does not seem likely. I have seen where you can buy new slides, don't remember where, 
but I am able to reconstruct the woodwork if needed, necessity being the mother of all 
invention. Might even give me an reason to buy more tools ( oh no!!!). You just gotta 
love working on these lovely beasts. Oh yeah, the PO had "fixed" the problem of broken 
slides by attaching screw-on legs, a working solution but you cannot access the bottom 
cabinets with the legs attached. 
Thanks again in advance to all of you.




- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Express yourself with Y! Messenger! Free. Download now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 05:45:54 -0400
From: 
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction

Those slides are warranteed by the Walters Company. Send them, and they'll
replace them!
First, you'll want to contact them.

Nick
#2577
WDCU
VAC


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Tate" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 4:29 AM
Subject: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction


> Good morning all,
> First, thanks to all who responded to my question about where I might get
old style 12 volt lights for my '65 Overlander. I plan on going to
Montevallo and checking out the place there.
> Second, I am sure that this has been discussed before, but I don't
remember. On my Gaucho, I have a piece of the slides on the bottom of the
seat of the couch as well as a piece of the slide fastened to the framework
with a hinge that would be located on the end of the slide facing the front.
I see that the slides are dovetailed and a slide stop of sorts is intact,
but the slides are separated. How are the slides held together? Is there a
"key" of wood that fits into the dovetails? Do they overlap, this does not
seem likely. I have seen where you can buy new slides, don't remember where,
but I am able to reconstruct the woodwork if needed, necessity being the
mother of all invention. Might even give me an reason to buy more tools ( oh
no!!!). You just gotta love working on these lovely beasts. Oh yeah, the PO
had "fixed" the problem of broken slides by attaching screw-on legs, a
working solution but you cannot access the bottom cabinets with the legs
attached.
> Thanks again in advance to all of you.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Express yourself with Y! Messenger! Free. Download now.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 05:35:48 -0500
From: "Tom C. Williams" 
Subject: [VAL] Paint for ABS Plastic?

I need to paint my ABS plastic air conditioner shroud, and am trying to
determine what kind of paint to use. The task is too big for spray can
paint which is too bad because I have seen a suitable product at the home
improvement stores.

Since I will be using a spray gun, can anyone advise me on what to ask for
at a paint & body supply store?

Thanks,
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 07:05:50 -0500
From: Chris Koehn 
Subject: [VAL] LED trailer lights follow up

I've been corresponding with the folks at LED trailerlights.com for a 
couple of weeks now on David's recommendation, regarding their model 84 
module. It was designed to fit a Bargman fixture, measures 5.275" wide, 
including two "tabs" that have holes which line up with the lens screw 
holes. Unfortunately the outer-most LED's are 4" apart: which is too 
wide to fit my (and most, I believe) Airstream tail lights that are not 
Bargman. One could construct a custom lens riser to make these work I 
believe. I won't.
I have a measured drawing of the 84 I can forward if anyone is 
interested. The search continues...

cheers,

Chris K
#8638
1979 Soveriegn
Full timin' on the way to Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:13:46 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey 
Subject: [VAL] Swiss Festival Rally?

I was just wondering of any other VAC folks will be at the Swiss Festival 
Rally, in Sugarcreek, OH - 9/25-10/3.

We will be caravaning up with our local unit on the 24th.

It would be nice to meet up with any other VAC members that are at the 
Rally....

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@yahoo.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 06:52:40 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] Silicone

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nancy Phillips" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 8:50 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Silicone
>
>
>> So a new question. The former owner put A LOT of silicone on the outside
>> seams up front and along the front and rear windows. It doesn't look 
>> pretty.
>> Now I know with wood interior Shasta's, silicone is a "no, no". What 
>> about
>> with Airstreams? How do you get it off? I did just order some Vulken 
>> (sp)
>> and I guess there is another product to put above the windows and
>> gutters?????
>>

We had the same problem with our '72 Overlander, and read on the list that 
Permatex Gasket Remover, available at any auto parts store, worked. It does. 
Our silicon was at times globbed on about the thickness of a lead pencil, 
and a couple of applications of the remover softened it up enough to get it 
off. Use a plastic putty knife and work under the silicon and it will peel 
off. You might have to use a remover-soaked terry towel to get the residue 
left, but it will do the job. Takes time.

Bob Hightower
WBCCI 11365 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:17:37 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tappan range

Nancy,

I believe that you just have flat glass in your back window. If so, you can
go to any hardware store and get a piece cut to fit! The retainer strip and
the black sticky stuff should be available through www.airstreamdreams.com

Scott
1960 Overlander
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nancy Phillips" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 2:25 PM
Subject: [VAL] Tappan range


> I just acquired a 1963 Globe Trotter...
... I need to get a new folding door and back window (cracked) at some
> point. I bet that back window is going to be expensive?????

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 08:34:14 -0600
From: rob 
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gaucho slide construction

M Tate wrote:

>"I have seen where you can buy new slides, don't remember where..."
> 
>

R.J. Dial provides a link on his restoration resources site:
http://www.walterofwabash.com/wood/wslide.html

Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
Denver, CO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 11:19:30 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

All,

I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end. If
I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
get them all working.

While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
bottom of that door.

What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?

There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
for?

Any help/ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:55:27 -0400
From: "Tom" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

The tube and vent hole is for the battery -- if it was in a case. Just 
like on a boat.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glyn Judson" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 2:19 PM
Subject: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners


> All,
>
> I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
> all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end. 
> If
> I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
> inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
> get them all working.
>
> While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
> coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
> the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
> bottom of that door.
>
> What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
> account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
> access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?
>
> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
> for?
>
> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:18:26 -0400
From: "Peter Ryner" 
Subject: RE: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

Glyn,
Not a 1969 expert, but my '68 has several drain tubes that come from the
check valve and drain fixtures. Mine are located just behind the toilet on
the street side. You should be able to follow the tube to its starting
point. Not likely it is causing your dry rot unless it is leaking while you
have water pressure to the trailer. More likely the rot was caused by a
leak or the dreaded body separation. Mine had the latter. The body
separates from the frame at the rear of the older rear bath models which
allows water to intrude and cause the rot. I've seen the vent and assume it
is to vent the space between the walls at the rear of the trailer. No idea
why it is required.
Pete


All,

I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end. If
I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
get them all working.

While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
bottom of that door.

What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?

There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
for?

Any help/ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:52:41 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

Hi Glyn,

Since I have a '69 Safari, I thought to reply to your quest for answers.
Can't answer all, but a couple might help you out.

The original battery housing covering the battery allowed the hydrogen to be
vented outside. The hose is just a vent tube and most likely the battery
housing was lost many years ago due to self destruction. The best bet is to
buy a very expensive battery that is ventless and add a second. :)

Sure wish I knew what you were talking about the "right colored wires
unterminated". The DC wiring should terminate in a fuse block that is
mounted to the inside of the rear hatch surround. You'll need to verify
what voltage is on each and most likely need your tow vehicle and umbilical
connected. The color code of '69 has no relationship to the current code.
You must have a service manual and/or the owner's manual.

Do you have the original charger? The Intelli Power and controller are
great additions and weight 5 pounds rather than 50.

The floor rot at the rear comes from several failure to maintain the unit.
First, with the trim strip removed, you'll notice that the water will wick
into the seam and directly onto the floor that is part of the sandwich.
Over time, it's history. Same thing can happen up front and near the banana
curves where the outer skin terminates just above the floor (poor Airstream
engineering). Other issues can be a leaky commode, roof vents, and so on.
Most likely you'll find that the skid rails are compromised and the holding
tank housing is almost history - must be fixed. The cross members holding
the housing must be sound. The foam is critical to the original design.
Hopefully it is not damaged. When the housing allows the holding tank to
drop, the commode fitting in the tank usually cracks loose. Replacing this
is a major job as I well know from experience.

If I were to do it again and not want to restore the trailer to it's
original design, I'd get a black water holding tank that sits on top of the
floor. Depending on the layout, it could be in the corner or the center of
the bath. Then, use the existing holding tank for gray water. By removing
the charger and the original porcelain commode, you lose about the weight of
the new holding tank of near 12 gallons - maybe 96 pounds when full. It
will seldom be full when you travel!

Sorry to keep the dialog so long, the the floor in the '69 is really a pain
in the ass. The later models did not clinch the floor between the inverted
U channel, the bumper hatch plate, and the cross frame brace. Best to do it
all right up front and not be disappointed later,

Regards, '69
Safari, Joy

In any event, the floor must be removed as well as the entire bath.
Replacing the pinched plywood is a real pain and can't be done without full
access. Not a shell off, but . . .




>
> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
> for?
>
> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:40:05 -0400
From: "lindac" 
Subject: RE: [VAL] 49 Liner

I have about 6 photos of the inside of my 49 that I can send you. Reply off
line for details.

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@tompatterson.com
[mailto:valist-admin@tompatterson.com]On Behalf Of c-l@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 2:56 AM
To: valist@tompatterson.com
Subject: [VAL] 49 Liner


My wife and I are aquiring a 1949 Airstream Liner. We have checked out the
photos on the Vintage Airstream archive picture page, but need more interior
info and pictures for restoration. If anyone out there has a 49 Liner and
could sare some interior pictures of their units, it would be of grat help
to us.
Thanks in Advance,
Chuck & Lynn
1965 Overlander
1960 Tradewind Int.
1949 Liner

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:59:22 -0500
From: "Dan Childress" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

The battery is located in the rear area. Is possible at one time this was
attached to the battery as a outside vent? Rot in the back of me 69 caravel
was caused by there not being a gasket under the rear light fixture. I
understand that this is a problem with 69 and early 70's.
Dan
14148
I have just stripped out my 69 caravel. Have parts!!!!!
contact me off board for information.

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Ryner" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners


> Glyn,
> Not a 1969 expert, but my '68 has several drain tubes that come from the
> check valve and drain fixtures. Mine are located just behind the toilet
on
> the street side. You should be able to follow the tube to its starting
> point. Not likely it is causing your dry rot unless it is leaking while
you
> have water pressure to the trailer. More likely the rot was caused by a
> leak or the dreaded body separation. Mine had the latter. The body
> separates from the frame at the rear of the older rear bath models which
> allows water to intrude and cause the rot. I've seen the vent and assume
it
> is to vent the space between the walls at the rear of the trailer. No
idea
> why it is required.
> Pete
>
>
> All,
>
> I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
> all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end.
If
> I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
> inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
> get them all working.
>
> While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
> coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
> the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
> bottom of that door.
>
> What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
> account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
> access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?
>
> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
> for?
>
> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: ThreePeaksRanch 
Subject: [VAL] Los Banos

Los Banos is going to be a great Region 12 Rally! The Long Beach Unit is planning a 
fabulous event. October 19th is the starting day. Toscano RV...call Glen for any sales 
advice:)....is going to probably host something during the event. Anyway, Lou Sales is 
the President for the Long Beach Unit. SHOW YOUR WBCCI/AIRSTREAM enthusiasm by SHOWING 
UP IN FULL VINTAGE REGALIA.....and have an Open House, very fun!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 17:26:24 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

Tom,

Thanks for solving the mystery. That explains the white plastic battery
hold down piece I have that has a rubber grommet at one end.

Glyn

> From: "Tom" 
> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:55:27 -0400
> To: 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
> 
> The tube and vent hole is for the battery -- if it was in a case. Just
> like on a boat.
> 
> Tom
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glyn Judson" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 2:19 PM
> Subject: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
> 
> 
>> All,
>> 
>> I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
>> all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end.
>> If
>> I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
>> inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
>> get them all working.
>> 
>> While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
>> coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
>> the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
>> bottom of that door.
>> 
>> What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
>> account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
>> access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?
>> 
>> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
>> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
>> for?
>> 
>> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Glyn
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>> 
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 17:30:13 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

Peter,

I don't have a bath at the rear as such. It's just a shower/head
combination at the rear street side corner. Is the separation issue a
function of the combined weight of a full tub of water and a bather?

I don't really that the rear end of my Caravel is sagging., he said
hopefully. ; - )

Thanks,

Glyn 

> From: "Peter Ryner" 
> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:18:26 -0400
> To: 
> Subject: RE: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
> 
> Glyn,
> Not a 1969 expert, but my '68 has several drain tubes that come from the
> check valve and drain fixtures. Mine are located just behind the toilet on
> the street side. You should be able to follow the tube to its starting
> point. Not likely it is causing your dry rot unless it is leaking while you
> have water pressure to the trailer. More likely the rot was caused by a
> leak or the dreaded body separation. Mine had the latter. The body
> separates from the frame at the rear of the older rear bath models which
> allows water to intrude and cause the rot. I've seen the vent and assume it
> is to vent the space between the walls at the rear of the trailer. No idea
> why it is required.
> Pete
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
> all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end. If
> I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
> inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need to
> get them all working.
> 
> While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
> coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly to
> the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
> bottom of that door.
> 
> What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
> account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
> access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?
> 
> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
> for?
> 
> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Glyn
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 18:23:49 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

Joy,

>>snip The original battery housing covering the battery allowed the hydrogen
>>to be vented outside.

That's exactly what it appears to be. I even have the top hold down
piece with a grommet in it that accepts that tube.

>>snip Sure wish I knew what you were talking about the "right colored wires
>>unterminated". The DC wiring should terminate in a fuse block that is mounted
>>to the inside of the rear hatch surround.

The wiring bundle from the connector at the tongue leads to a terminal
strip under the street side of the Gaucho, accessible from a small door
under the trailer. It then leads aft on the street side and emerges in that
rear corner through the plywood. That's where I found several unterminated
wires (loose and not connected to anything). There isn't much space to work
there unless I were to remove the holding tank first. I just went outside
and measured the work space. It's 2 1/2" from the inner skin to the tank
side and the wire bundle emerges through the plywood about 4-5" to the left
of the access door frame, not enough to look into the hole in the inner skin
in the same place. 

I see no evidence of a fuse block ever having been there. Even if there
were one at one time, it would be almost impossible to see the condition of
a given fuse short of removing them one at a time and bringing them into the
light of day. 

I surmise that the loose wires attach to mating wires hidden in that
hole. It appears that I'll need to fish around in that hole to hook and
then pull them out. I can then reattach the wires and hopefully start to
see lights go on when I energize the connector at the tongue with 12v.

>> You'll need to verify what voltage is on each and most likely need your tow
>>vehicle and umbilical connected.

I assume that all those wires leading aft are 12v.

>>The color code of '69 has no relationship to the current code.

Yes but at the back end where the wires are disconnected, red still goes
to red, blue still goes to blue, etc.

>>You must have a service manual and/or the owner's manual.

Yes I do and it was from that diagram that I finally determined that
those wires were coming from up front.

>>snip The best bet is to buy a very expensive battery that is ventless and add
>>a second. 

Good suggestion. I have a two-part steel battery tray on a riser that
for all the world appears to be the original. What did the factory ones
look like? 

I don't want to sandblast, prime and paint them only to find out they're
not the right parts.

>> Do you have the original charger? The Intelli Power and controller are
>>great additions and weight 5 pounds >>rather than 50.


Yes I do and it seems to be working. To what degree though, I don't
know. 

>> If I were to do it again and not want to restore the trailer to it's
>> original design, I'd get a black water holding tank that sits on top of the
>> floor.

Mine is on top of the floor now and it looks just like the one in the
photo in my owners manual, so I assume it's the original. It's lime green
with a same-size sheet of plywood over it. All of that I can see appears to
be in good shape. 

>> The the floor in the '69 is really a pain. Best to do it all right up front
and not be disappointed later.

That's the plan. I finding parallels between working on my Caravel and
work on our boat. One repair leads to another, to another to another. And
to get to the repair, most everything in the back half of the trailer/boat
has to come out first.

There's one great difference. If I drill a hole in the floor the
Caravel won't sink. ; - )

>> In any event, the floor must be removed as well as the entire bath.
>> Replacing the pinched plywood is a real pain and can't be done without full
>> access. Not a shell off, but . . .

I hear you son!

Thanks for all the good information, really,

Glyn

> From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" 
> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:52:41 -0400
> To: 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
> 
> Hi Glyn,
> 
> Since I have a '69 Safari, I thought to reply to your quest for answers.
> Can't answer all, but a couple might help you out.
> 
> The original battery housing covering the battery allowed the hydrogen to be
> vented outside. The hose is just a vent tube and most likely the battery
> housing was lost many years ago due to self destruction. The best bet is to
> buy a very expensive battery that is ventless and add a second. :)
> 
> Sure wish I knew what you were talking about the "right colored wires
> unterminated". The DC wiring should terminate in a fuse block that is
> mounted to the inside of the rear hatch surround. You'll need to verify
> what voltage is on each and most likely need your tow vehicle and umbilical
> connected. The color code of '69 has no relationship to the current code.
> You must have a service manual and/or the owner's manual.
> 
> Do you have the original charger? The Intelli Power and controller are
> great additions and weight 5 pounds rather than 50.
> 
> The floor rot at the rear comes from several failure to maintain the unit.
> First, with the trim strip removed, you'll notice that the water will wick
> into the seam and directly onto the floor that is part of the sandwich.
> Over time, it's history. Same thing can happen up front and near the banana
> curves where the outer skin terminates just above the floor (poor Airstream
> engineering). Other issues can be a leaky commode, roof vents, and so on.
> Most likely you'll find that the skid rails are compromised and the holding
> tank housing is almost history - must be fixed. The cross members holding
> the housing must be sound. The foam is critical to the original design.
> Hopefully it is not damaged. When the housing allows the holding tank to
> drop, the commode fitting in the tank usually cracks loose. Replacing this
> is a major job as I well know from experience.
> 
> If I were to do it again and not want to restore the trailer to it's
> original design, I'd get a black water holding tank that sits on top of the
> floor. Depending on the layout, it could be in the corner or the center of
> the bath. Then, use the existing holding tank for gray water. By removing
> the charger and the original porcelain commode, you lose about the weight of
> the new holding tank of near 12 gallons - maybe 96 pounds when full. It
> will seldom be full when you travel!
> 
> Sorry to keep the dialog so long, the the floor in the '69 is really a pain
> in the ass. The later models did not clinch the floor between the inverted
> U channel, the bumper hatch plate, and the cross frame brace. Best to do it
> all right up front and not be disappointed later,
> 
> Regards, '69
> Safari, Joy
> 
> In any event, the floor must be removed as well as the entire bath.
> Replacing the pinched plywood is a real pain and can't be done without full
> access. Not a shell off, but . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
>> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's that
>> for?
>> 
>> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Glyn
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>> 
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:50:43 -0400
From: "Tom" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners

:))

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glyn Judson" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners


> Tom,
>
> Thanks for solving the mystery. That explains the white plastic 
> battery
> hold down piece I have that has a rubber grommet at one end.
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Tom" 
>> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
>> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:55:27 -0400
>> To: 
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
>>
>> The tube and vent hole is for the battery -- if it was in a case. Just
>> like on a boat.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Glyn Judson" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 2:19 PM
>> Subject: [VAL] A question for 1969 owners
>>
>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> I'm about to tackle the outside electrical problem and to my joy, saw
>>> all the right colored wired unterminated as they came into the rear end.
>>> If
>>> I'm lucky, I'll be able to fish out the proper mates from a hole in the
>>> inner skin in order to hook them up. I hope that's all that I'll need 
>>> to
>>> get them all working.
>>>
>>> While scrounging around back there, I again noticed a 1/4" vinyl tube
>>> coming through the access door frame extrusion from below and slightly 
>>> to
>>> the right of the license plate light. It extends down to just below the
>>> bottom of that door.
>>>
>>> What is this tube draining if anything and from where? Could that
>>> account for the dry rot in the rear plywood floor from the center of the
>>> access door just forward of the rear bumper to the curbside corner?
>>>
>>> There's also a screened Wilkie button (vent?) just below the license
>>> light in the outer skin and above the rear access door frame. What's 
>>> that
>>> for?
>>>
>>> Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Glyn
>>>
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #6
***********************


-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html