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VAL Digest V2 #56


VAL Digest         Thursday, November 4 2004         Volume 02 : Number 056




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve
Re: [VAL] Front hitch
[VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot air heat system
Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve
Re: [VAL] killing batteries
Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve
Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot  air heat system
Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot  air heat system
[VAL] Re: Alternate heating systems
Re: [VAL] Safety of propane furnace - hot air heat system
Re: [VAL] Front hitch
Re: [VAL] Front hitch
[VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane  furnace - hot  air heat system
Re: [VAL] killing batteries
[VAL] electrical question
Re: [VAL] electrical question

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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 13:28:56 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve

Are you  looking for an adapter that goes FROM the Thetford on your 
Airstream to some other brand's type to connect your sewer hose?

Can you be more specific?

Tom
WBCCI 5303

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rics" <rics@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Vintage Airstream List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:05 AM
Subject: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve


> Good morning,
>
> We have a 64 tradewind, cute as heck, in great shape, just refurbished it 
> in the last 6 months. Here's the problem. As you know the pre 65 models 
> came with a thetford dump valve and two brass "screw on" style drains, one 
> to use for blackwater, and a "frying pan" style drain for the gray water. 
> The black water drain is gone. Wish I could just get another, but I have a 
> feeling they are tough to find. In addition, I would like to have a 
> coupler at the dump valve drain that has easy to replace parts, and is 
> tight and easy to use. Has anyone been through this, can you give me some 
> direction or ideas on this one? Thanks, Ric Seaberg
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 13:30:23 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Front hitch

They mount underneath the vehicle (truck), to the frame.  Can't mount it to 
your bumper unless you like bent up, dropped one use bumpers. ;)

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Front hitch


> how do you install a hitch on the front??
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:55 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Front hitch
>
>
>> I've had a front hitch for years now .It not only makes backing my 28
> footer
>> easy but not too long ago a woman in a parking lot backed into my front
> end
>> and got harpooned !! No damage to my truck but it put a BIG crease in her
> front
>> end.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Phil Kaufman
>> 1957Streamline Empress
>> The Tin Turtle
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 01:43:23 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot air heat system

Hi Marvin,

Since your furnace is old already --- ever given any idea to a marine type 
LP gas furnace?

Patti Raimondo has a super neat "mini" fireplace propane heater in her "new" 
Flying Cloud.  If I remember correctly the furnace wasn't inexpensive but 
then what is if it's really great quality?  Patti's furnace is designed and 
sold at marine stores but I'm sure you could find some online as well.

I'm really thinking of getting a propane heater just like Patti's for our 
34' Airstream FK Excella as it would be really safe to use especially since 
it vents out the roof and not the sidewall.

Tom
WBCCI 5303

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marvin W. Murray" <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:28 PM
Subject: [VAL] Safety of propane furnace - hot air heat system


> Two years ago I had the original Suburban propane furnace - hot air 
> heating system in my 1976 Tradewind 25' checked out by the shop of a major 
> RV dealer (not Airstreams). They replaced the electronic ignition circuit 
> board and said it was O.K. My wife is concerned that we will not be safe 
> (from carbon monoxide, propane, etc.) if we run the furnace while we 
> sleep. Are her concerns possibly justified?  If so, what should I have 
> looked at to insure our safety? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Marvin Murray
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 22:49:54 -0800
From: rics <rics@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve

good question tom, thanks for askin'. and thanks to everyone else for  
your great ideas and suggestions.

first,  i am looking for a way to adapt the old 64 dump valve exit  
fitting (which has four "ears" on it) to fit onto a hose in a  
convenient way. if i could adapt it using some method (there have been  
some great suggestions here) to fit to a valtera style hose fitting,  
that would be fine. it seems like there are lots of valtera parts and  
hoses available such that i could fix something up that would b e snug  
and easy to use.

uwe says he has an original brass black water drain part, that would be  
great if is a part that will fit my rig for sure. ric
On Nov 2, 2004, at 10:28 AM, Tom wrote:

> Are you  looking for an adapter that goes FROM the Thetford on your  
> Airstream to some other brand's type to connect your sewer hose?
>
> Can you be more specific?
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rics" <rics@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: "Vintage Airstream List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:05 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve
>
>
>> Good morning,
>>
>> We have a 64 tradewind, cute as heck, in great shape, just  
>> refurbished it in the last 6 months. Here's the problem. As you know  
>> the pre 65 models came with a thetford dump valve and two brass  
>> "screw on" style drains, one to use for blackwater, and a "frying  
>> pan" style drain for the gray water. The black water drain is gone.  
>> Wish I could just get another, but I have a feeling they are tough to  
>> find. In addition, I would like to have a coupler at the dump valve  
>> drain that has easy to replace parts, and is tight and easy to use.  
>> Has anyone been through this, can you give me some direction or ideas  
>> on this one? Thanks, Ric Seaberg
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original  
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>
>
Ric Seaberg
Website:
http://www.broadjam.com/ric
CDs available at:
http://www.cdbaby.com/all/ricseaberg

And at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002T3X62/ 
qid=1094391374/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i3_xgl15/002-1921195-3092051? 
v=glance&s=music&n=507846

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 01:53:35 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] killing batteries

We had the same problem on our 1969 29' Intl Ambassador.

The problem?  The converter boiled the batteries, all of them.

The fix?  An automatic battery charger that will keep your battery topped of 
but it won't kill it.  Of course, if you use a water battery you will be 
responsible for adding distilled water as needed -- AND -- you must check on 
the battery for better or worse on a routine basis.

Recently I opted to install 2 of the Blue Optima deep cycle marine batteries 
that don't use water, don't use gel, they are made of rolled up all glass 
mats and this lets you install the battery sideways if you need the 
clearance.

The Optima batteries come with a great 3 year over the counter exchange, no 
questions asked should they fail during that time.  After 3 years the time 
is pro-rated and you pay for what you use towards the price of a new one.

Cost?  About $150.00 each or $300.00 for the pair of house batteries our 34' 
Airstream needs.

The newer Airstreams have a converter that is "supposed to" charge the 
batteries but not boil them and then it is "supposed to" keep the level of 
charge up using some type of electronic circuitry.  Supposedly, I'm not at 
all familiar with what is in our 34' Airstream as far as the converter is 
concerned because to get to it I need to remove the shelf fastener NAILS, 
then remove the shelf underneath the sink on our Front Kitchen model.  Yours 
is in the curbside door if memory serves correctly.

Lots of people love the Charge Wizards that watch over their battery or 
batteries and you can find them at Camping World.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jacqueline Tisdale" <jimjac@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 10:05 PM
Subject: [VAL] killing batteries


> We brought a '69 Caravel back to life. We didn't pull everything out and 
> start over, just patched and fixed. Now I wish we had stripped it to 
> replumb and rewire. But I digress. ..
>
> Last year we put in a deep-cycle marine battery. Got ready to use the 
> trailer this summer and the battery had to be replaced. We used it two 
> times; now that battery needs to be replaced. Are we doing something that 
> kills the batteries? We will get this one replaced for a small fee but 
> want to solve this rotating battery problem. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jacqueline Tisdale
> jimjac@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 02:32:04 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve

They make an adapter to go from Thetford TO Valtera fittings.  Then you just 
need to fit a Valtera slinky hose fitting onto the adapter.  See?  Easy -- I 
think. ;)

Contact Out-of-doors Mart in North Carolina (Kernersville, maybe?) just 
outside of Greensboro, NC -- which is where I bought my adapter to be able 
to use the Sewer Solution hose instead of the stinky slinky.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rics" <rics@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 1:49 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve


> good question tom, thanks for askin'. and thanks to everyone else for
> your great ideas and suggestions.
>
> first,  i am looking for a way to adapt the old 64 dump valve exit
> fitting (which has four "ears" on it) to fit onto a hose in a
> convenient way. if i could adapt it using some method (there have been
> some great suggestions here) to fit to a valtera style hose fitting,
> that would be fine. it seems like there are lots of valtera parts and
> hoses available such that i could fix something up that would b e snug
> and easy to use.
>
> uwe says he has an original brass black water drain part, that would be
> great if is a part that will fit my rig for sure. ric
> On Nov 2, 2004, at 10:28 AM, Tom wrote:
>
>> Are you  looking for an adapter that goes FROM the Thetford on your
>> Airstream to some other brand's type to connect your sewer hose?
>>
>> Can you be more specific?
>>
>> Tom
>> WBCCI 5303
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rics" <rics@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>> To: "Vintage Airstream List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:05 AM
>> Subject: [VAL] Pre 65 thetfold valve
>>
>>
>>> Good morning,
>>>
>>> We have a 64 tradewind, cute as heck, in great shape, just
>>> refurbished it in the last 6 months. Here's the problem. As you know
>>> the pre 65 models came with a thetford dump valve and two brass
>>> "screw on" style drains, one to use for blackwater, and a "frying
>>> pan" style drain for the gray water. The black water drain is gone.
>>> Wish I could just get another, but I have a feeling they are tough to
>>> find. In addition, I would like to have a coupler at the dump valve
>>> drain that has easy to replace parts, and is tight and easy to use.
>>> Has anyone been through this, can you give me some direction or ideas
>>> on this one? Thanks, Ric Seaberg
>>>
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>>> text
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>>
>>
> Ric Seaberg
> Website:
> http://www.broadjam.com/ric
> CDs available at:
> http://www.cdbaby.com/all/ricseaberg
>
> And at Amazon.com
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002T3X62/
> qid=1094391374/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i3_xgl15/002-1921195-3092051?
> v=glance&s=music&n=507846
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:00:58 -0500
From: Rick Kunath <k9ao@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot  air heat system

Tom wrote:

> 
> Patti Raimondo has a super neat "mini" fireplace propane heater in her 
> "new" Flying Cloud.  If I remember correctly the furnace wasn't 
> inexpensive but then what is if it's really great quality?  Patti's 
> furnace is designed and sold at marine stores but I'm sure you could 
> find some online as well.
> 


I'd love to get some more information on Patti's fireplace...

Any advice Patti?

Rick Kunath
WBCCI #3060

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:47:58 -0500
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - hot  air heat system

I am not sure if this is the EXACT model, but patti's fireplace is similar 
to this: 
http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/propane_fireplaces_p9000.htm

Dave

At 09:00 AM 11/3/2004, you wrote:
>Tom wrote:
>
>>Patti Raimondo has a super neat "mini" fireplace propane heater in her 
>>"new" Flying Cloud.  If I remember correctly the furnace wasn't 
>>inexpensive but then what is if it's really great quality?  Patti's 
>>furnace is designed and sold at marine stores but I'm sure you could find 
>>some online as well.
>
>
>I'd love to get some more information on Patti's fireplace...
>
>Any advice Patti?
>
>Rick Kunath
>WBCCI #3060
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 15:18:12 +0000
From: Mitch Hill <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Alternate heating systems

At 09:00 11/3/04 -0500, Rick Kunath wrote:

>I'd love to get some more information on Patti's fireplace...

I second that request...

I have been pursuing the same thought, having put a new Suburban Furnace in 
my Ambassador two years ago, I am not happy with the noise, the 12Vdc 
drain,  and the way it blasts hot air out. It heats the trailer admirably 
however as an old boater, I know there are better ways.  My first choice 
for a heater at present is Dickinson Marine's Newport Propane Fireplace or 
since the increase in propane prices, I am now thinking rather the 
Dickinson Newport Solid fuel heater which looks to be the better way to go.

The other unit I am looking at is Force10 Cozy Cabin Heater which is 
roughly half the cost of the Dickinson products at roughly half the size in 
BTU output...

Both are available from West Marine... www.westmarine.com

www.dickinsonmarine.com/shop5/shopdisplaycatagories.asp

www.force10.com/products.html

- --
Mitch Hill - K1FH
WBCCI 21960
'64 AS Ambassador International

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:48:31 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Safety of propane furnace - hot air heat system

Propane leaks tend to show up in the nose. The oderant is distinctive. 
Most propane leaks will be in the plumbing, not the appliances, 
though its possible a gas valve could open without ignition. Its an 
important regular maintenance item to check the propane plumbing 
while pressurized. Check for leaks by covering all fittings and 
connections with soapy water. Or kids bubble mix. If any bubbles 
show, tighten or repair the connection until no bubbles show. 
Traveling will loosen connections all over.

For combustion products like CO and CO2, CO detectors work, so 
long as they have good batteries, are clean, and are in the right 
places. Propane appliances don't do much CO unless the flame is 
really badly adjusted with way too little combustion air. Propane is 
used for fork lift engine fuel inside buildings because of that factor.

One can learn to detect CO without a detector, but its not fun 
finding the CO. I've been there twice. Once in an old camper and 
once in the house. Clues include a metallic taste in the mouth and a 
splitting headache. The next step is inability to focus and bad 
balance. Then a coma. It can take a hyperbaric oxygen chamber to 
recover from the coma if found in time. A new CO detector did 
wake me up in the camper and I got out on my own.

Without a NEW propane heater in my Caravel, I use electric heat on 
the road. The new furnace in this house has forced draft to push 
combustion products up the stack. The next house won't have 
combustion appliances.

Gerald J.

 -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 11:24:14 -0600
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Front hitch

Unless things have changed recently, the front hitches that are available 
as bolt-on's are a little light in the hitch weight ratings... A bigger 
airstream with more than 600 lbs on the ball would exceed the max allowable 
weight...
If anyone can lead me to a 1000 lb max hitch weight unit, I will probably 
purchase one...

Regards,

Jim ...




At 12:30 PM 11/2/2004, you wrote:
>They mount underneath the vehicle (truck), to the frame.  Can't mount it 
>to your bumper unless you like bent up, dropped one use bumpers. ;)
>
>Tom
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:29 AM
>Subject: Re: [VAL] Front hitch
>
>
>>how do you install a hitch on the front??
>>----- Original Message ----- From: <Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:55 AM
>>Subject: [VAL] Front hitch
>>
>>
>>>I've had a front hitch for years now .It not only makes backing my 28
>>footer
>>>easy but not too long ago a woman in a parking lot backed into my front
>>end
>>>and got harpooned !! No damage to my truck but it put a BIG crease in her
>>front
>>>end.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>Phil Kaufman
>>>1957Streamline Empress
>>>The Tin Turtle
>>>
>>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 13:21:53 -0500
From: Neal Warren <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Front hitch

> Unless things have changed recently, the front hitches that are available
> as bolt-on's are a little light in the hitch weight ratings... A bigger
> airstream with more than 600 lbs on the ball would exceed the max allowable
> weight...
> If anyone can lead me to a 1000 lb max hitch weight unit, I will probably
> purchase one...


If you keep your backwards towing down to 30 or 40 mph, you shouldn't have
too much trouble with broken hitches. :)   After all, you probably won't
have hookups for the brakes at the front of the truck, either.

Neal

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 17:16:25 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Questions

Hi All,
	After a long conversation with my wife, we have decided to kee the 1957
Overlander. She is going to learn how to hook up to depart and at the
parks. She reminded me of the four years and many many hours put into
makeing an "ugly ducklin" into a "Silver Swan." 
	Question for Scott S. I still want to see the pics of how the air
conditioner was installed in your Overlander. I saw an AC installed in
the middle vent on the TT (1957) pictured in the archives. My TT has two
ribs that are in front and rear of the vent. My AC weights in at 95 lbs.
and I wonder if more bracing is needed?
	Qiestion for Tom P. Do you know what the start up amps are for the
Coleman Mach III PS that you installed in your motorhome? This is the AC
I have and wondered if the wiring on my Overlander can handle the AC
startup or if I will have to run a special line for it. 
	Well, here I go again working on that silver "Something or Other"
sitting in the yard. :)
Jerry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 21:45:21 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane  furnace - hot  air heat system

Dave,

That sure looks like it!  Thanks.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Lowrey" <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Patti Raimondo's heater - re:Safety of propane furnace - 
hot air heat system


>I am not sure if this is the EXACT model, but patti's fireplace is similar 
>to this: 
>http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/propane_fireplaces_p9000.htm
>
> Dave
>
> At 09:00 AM 11/3/2004, you wrote:
>>Tom wrote:
>>
>>>Patti Raimondo has a super neat "mini" fireplace propane heater in her 
>>>"new" Flying Cloud.  If I remember correctly the furnace wasn't 
>>>inexpensive but then what is if it's really great quality?  Patti's 
>>>furnace is designed and sold at marine stores but I'm sure you could find 
>>>some online as well.
>>
>>
>>I'd love to get some more information on Patti's fireplace...
>>
>>Any advice Patti?
>>
>>Rick Kunath
>>WBCCI #3060
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 07:56:04 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] killing batteries

I replaced my Univolt with the Intelli power with Charge Wizard and put 
in an Ultime yellow top, four years ago. I don't have any sneaky battery 
drains ( like a newer fridge), and the trailer was far from a power 
source and frozen for the winter. I guess I must have left it charge up, 
but that's all I did. I have reduced my power usage well enough that i 
can boon dock on that one battery for three days.

Daisy

Tom wrote:

> We had the same problem on our 1969 29' Intl Ambassador.
> 
> The problem?  The converter boiled the batteries, all of them.
> 
> The fix?  An automatic battery charger that will keep your battery 
> topped of but it won't kill it.  Of course, if you use a water battery 
> you will be responsible for adding distilled water as needed -- AND -- 
> you must check on the battery for better or worse on a routine basis.
> 
> Recently I opted to install 2 of the Blue Optima deep cycle marine 
> batteries that don't use water, don't use gel, they are made of rolled 
> up all glass mats and this lets you install the battery sideways if you 
> need the clearance.
> 
> The Optima batteries come with a great 3 year over the counter exchange, 
> no questions asked should they fail during that time.  After 3 years the 
> time is pro-rated and you pay for what you use towards the price of a 
> new one.
> 
> Cost?  About $150.00 each or $300.00 for the pair of house batteries our 
> 34' Airstream needs.
> 
> The newer Airstreams have a converter that is "supposed to" charge the 
> batteries but not boil them and then it is "supposed to" keep the level 
> of charge up using some type of electronic circuitry.  Supposedly, I'm 
> not at all familiar with what is in our 34' Airstream as far as the 
> converter is concerned because to get to it I need to remove the shelf 
> fastener NAILS, then remove the shelf underneath the sink on our Front 
> Kitchen model.  Yours is in the curbside door if memory serves correctly.
> 
> Lots of people love the Charge Wizards that watch over their battery or 
> batteries and you can find them at Camping World.
> 
> Tom
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacqueline Tisdale" 
> <jimjac@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 10:05 PM
> Subject: [VAL] killing batteries
> 
> 
>> We brought a '69 Caravel back to life. We didn't pull everything out 
>> and start over, just patched and fixed. Now I wish we had stripped it 
>> to replumb and rewire. But I digress. ..
>>
>> Last year we put in a deep-cycle marine battery. Got ready to use the 
>> trailer this summer and the battery had to be replaced. We used it two 
>> times; now that battery needs to be replaced. Are we doing something 
>> that kills the batteries? We will get this one replaced for a small 
>> fee but want to solve this rotating battery problem. Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Jacqueline Tisdale
>> jimjac@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 20:31:36 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] electrical question

The LED goddess is at it again, I found a 5 LED under cabinet, bookshelf 
  light. They came with a transformer to change 120 AC to 4.5VDC.

What I want to know is, how can I wire them into 12vDC ?  If I do it 
directly, they will blow out pretty quick. There are 5 of them spaced 
about 3" appart on what looks to be low voltage ungrounded outdoor 
lighting cable, which appears to be just heavy duty zip chord, although 
faltter so that the LED's can clamp onto it. they might come off and go 
on somewhere else...then there is a black connector that the pretty 
standard wall wart plug goes into and then the wall wart. I'm guessing 
there might be the necessary resistor (s) in the little black connector 
  box, but maybe they just got the right LED's and ganged them up.

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 22:09:52 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] electrical question

Daisy, there is probably an integrated circuit in the wallwart taking 
care of the current regulation for the 5 LEDs in parallel. At least there 
are several such ICs advertised in electronics trade journals these 
days.

4.5 VDC is about the forward drop of the white LED. There probably is 
a point in the wallwart that would take 12 volts DC efficiently. But 
finding it will require taking the wallwart apart. To open the case, put 
it on a vice or anvil and tap along the visible seam with a small (like 8 
ounce) hammer. Work around the seam repeatedly until the seam 
cracks. The DC input point will be at the output of the rectifier, 
probably will have a 500 or 1000 mf 16 volt electrolytic. Apply 12 volts 
DC across the electrolytic observing polarity.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #56
************************


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