The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #53
VAL Digest Monday, November 1 2004 Volume 02 : Number 053
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Table Leg
RE: [VAL] Table Leg
[VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Tundra
[VAL] Water saving and reuse
[VAL] Heater Fan
Re: [VAL] Table Leg
Re: [VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Heater Fan
RE: [VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Tundra
Re: [VAL] Trailer backing
Re: [VAL] Heater Fan
Re: [VAL] Trailer backing
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 23:27:33 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Table Leg
Hi Ed - I took a table out of a 56 Bubble that might work. I'll see if
I can find a picture. In the meantime, email me the dimensions of what
you're after.
Jo Ann
On Oct 2004, at 4:48 PM, eemerick wrote:
> Hello,
> I'm looking for a table leg to install on the table in the dinette on
> the 59. If possible I would want the hinge and the leg, just about any
> year would work.
> Thanks
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 06:51:54 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Table Leg
Thanks Jo Ann, I'll get them today and get back with you!
Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 1:28 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Table Leg
Hi Ed - I took a table out of a 56 Bubble that might work. I'll see if
I can find a picture. In the meantime, email me the dimensions of what
you're after.
Jo Ann
On Oct 2004, at 4:48 PM, eemerick wrote:
> Hello,
> I'm looking for a table leg to install on the table in the dinette on
> the 59. If possible I would want the hinge and the leg, just about any
> year would work. Thanks
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 11:30:46 -0500
From: Gary <verygary@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Tundra
JoAnn,
I also have a Tundra and tow a 22' Safari. The First place to begin
searching for a transmission cooler is in front of your radiator on your
truck. My truck already has one. I believe that is a standard item with
the V8.
I have not checked the gas mileage difference while towing for the same
reason I have not added all the receipts for all of the items during the
restoration..I do not think I want to know. As for the truck and it's
towing capabilities it is excellent. I do use overdrive on flat highways
as it feels like the truck and tranmission are not working very hard. On
hilly and mountain areas I switch it off. I am still towing without load
leveler bars or sway bar. Sometimes I think it feels heavy and other
times it does not even seem like I am towing anything. Flat is better. I
will try a hitch load leveler soon to see if it makes a difference.
Gary Campbell
62' Safari
Portland, Maine
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 08:33:12 -0800
From: William Kerfoot <wkerfoot@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tundra
Gary,
Yeah but, don't confuse the transcooler with the air conditioning
condenser, an airconditioned, automatic trans vehicle will have two
silver, thin radiator looking things in front of the actual radiator.
Bill Kerfoot
WBCCI/VAC #5223
1979 23' Safari
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon
1977 Lincoln Continental
Orange, CA
http://www.tompatterson.com/VALgallery/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=21
Gary wrote:
>JoAnn,
>I also have a Tundra and tow a 22' Safari. The First place to begin
>searching for a transmission cooler is in front of your radiator on your
>truck. My truck already has one. I believe that is a standard item with
>the V8.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 10:41:03 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Water saving and reuse
I just read an interesting article showing some of the generalities of saving and
reusing water. It was in "Consulting Specifying Engineer" and is available on line at:
http://www.csemag.com/magazine/articles/csemag0410wet.asp
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 12:48:12 EST
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Heater Fan
Hello again: thanks for all the suggestions. While my wife handed out
Halloween candy, I worked on the really scare task of getting this heater fan off.
I did find a Suburban repair manual with diagrams of the "2" heater fans.
One for intake and one for output. I also found the allen screws for each of
the fans and was able to loosen both. Still the fans would not easily come off
the motor shaft. I ended up pounding on the end of the shaft and this pulled
the fans off. The inside fan (intake) is the one out of balance. Am I glad I
had the trusty service manual....here's what it says. Pg. 14...C. Complaint-
Excessive Noise 1. Blower out of balance---Replace Blower. Boy, is this
going to be easy! Anyone know where I can get a Suburban, model NT-22, Wheel,
Blower, Small part # 350036?
So much for working on antique trailers! Anyway, I am making progress.
I'll see if I can balance the blower myself and in the mean time clean this
heater really good. I can see the "brushes" need replacement in the motor and will
see if I can do that.
Anyone have any suggestions on replacement material for the asbestos gaskets
that surround the heater motor assembly. Its all fallen apart and I would
rather have it out of there anyway. It looks like the gasket thickness is 1/8th
inch or less. Car parts place?
Again, thanks for the help.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 10:03:13 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Table Leg
Right. jw
On Oct 2004, at 3:51 AM, eemerick wrote:
> Thanks Jo Ann, I'll get them today and get back with you!
> Ed
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
> Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 1:28 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Table Leg
>
>
> Hi Ed - I took a table out of a 56 Bubble that might work. I'll see if
> I can find a picture. In the meantime, email me the dimensions of what
> you're after.
> Jo Ann
> On Oct 2004, at 4:48 PM, eemerick wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> I'm looking for a table leg to install on the table in the dinette on
>> the 59. If possible I would want the hinge and the leg, just about any
>
>> year would work. Thanks
>> Ed
>> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>> 68 Sovereign
>> 59 Traveler
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 10:50:56 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tundra
Gary:
Thanks a lot for the info. I did keep the sticker from the truck
window and it lists all the stuff it came with. It's the Limited so I
know I sure paid for a lot of stuff. I'd forgotten about that and will
check it out and then look under the hood also.
My trailer is 17 ft long, total and no sway bars or anything extra.
If I can figure out how to lock the door with my new dead bolt without
locking myself in again (long story), I'm taking a short 3 day fishing
trip this coming week so that'll be my first real Fwy/back roads trips
and I'm sure I'm about to learn a lot about handling. Backing up is
still a mystery.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 14:22:38 -0700
From: MJ Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tundra
Joann,
Trick to backing up is put your hand on the BOTTOM of the steering
wheel. Push the bottom of the wheel in the direction you want the
trailer to go. Watch the trailer in your side view mirrors (electric
ones are nice, you can move them around to scope out the terrain) If
you see more of the trailer appearing in one mirror or the other, that
is the way the trailer is moving with respect to the prime mover. If
that's not what you want to happen, "push" the trailer back with the
bottom of the steering wheel. It's best if you can start out with the
trailer and mover in line with each other, but that's not always possible.
If you can get to a nice big parking lot (school or shopping center) on
a "closed" day, practice backing along the parking space lines. An hour
of practice and you will have a lifetime skill.
Go for it!
Matt
Joann Wheatley wrote:
> <snip>
> Backing up is still a mystery.
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 16:51:16 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater Fan
Gasket material -- high temp (red in color), high strength RTV sealant
I would advise you to "lube" the shaft of the motor with that Kroil product
I told you about just in case you revisit this project. You should also use
the Kroil on the Allen screw threads so rust won't "grow" there again --
Kroil is a creeping oil that gets into spaces as tight as one-millionth of
an inch, and it does work.
Take your original squirrel cage fan to a machine shop to see of they can
"rebuild" it for you so that it is balanced AND the cage is perpendicular to
the motor shaft opening. This would be far easier to do than to locate
another squirrel cage I would think -- and those parts made back then are a
lot more durable than the garbage you find them made out of today.
Then, put it all back together but make sure to do a dry run BEFORE
assembly. If you really got technical with this out of balanced fan you
could use a runout gauge but that's more than you wanted to know I'm sure.
;))
Tom
WBCCI 5303
> Hello again: thanks for all the suggestions. While my wife handed out
> Halloween candy, I worked on the really scare task of getting this heater
> fan off.
> I did find a Suburban repair manual with diagrams of the "2" heater fans.
> One for intake and one for output. I also found the allen screws for each
> of
> the fans and was able to loosen both. Still the fans would not easily
> come off
> the motor shaft. I ended up pounding on the end of the shaft and this
> pulled
> the fans off. The inside fan (intake) is the one out of balance. Am I
> glad I
> had the trusty service manual....here's what it says. Pg. 14...C.
> Complaint-
> Excessive Noise 1. Blower out of balance---Replace Blower. Boy, is this
> going to be easy! Anyone know where I can get a Suburban, model NT-22,
> Wheel,
> Blower, Small part # 350036?
> So much for working on antique trailers! Anyway, I am making progress.
> I'll see if I can balance the blower myself and in the mean time clean
> this
> heater really good. I can see the "brushes" need replacement in the motor
> and will
> see if I can do that.
> Anyone have any suggestions on replacement material for the asbestos
> gaskets
> that surround the heater motor assembly. Its all fallen apart and I would
> rather have it out of there anyway. It looks like the gasket thickness is
> 1/8th
> inch or less. Car parts place?
> Again, thanks for the help.
>
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 15:31:28 -0700
From: "jcchome" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Tundra
JoAnn,
I tow with a Tundra, and have towed the Tradewind over ten thousand foot
passes in Colorado without problem. On the flat I catch myself drifting
up to 72+ and drop back to 70. I use load leveler bars, but don't have
any experience without the bars -- don't plan to get any either. There
is an extra cooling coil in front of the radiator. I tow with overdrive
off when on a hill (up).
It the best vehicle I have owned.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Gary
> Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 9:31 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Tundra
>
> JoAnn,
> I also have a Tundra and tow a 22' Safari. The First place to begin
> searching for a transmission cooler is in front of your radiator on
your
> truck. My truck already has one. I believe that is a standard item
with
> the V8.
> I have not checked the gas mileage difference while towing for the
same
> reason I have not added all the receipts for all of the items during
the
> restoration..I do not think I want to know. As for the truck and it's
> towing capabilities it is excellent. I do use overdrive on flat
highways
> as it feels like the truck and tranmission are not working very hard.
On
> hilly and mountain areas I switch it off. I am still towing without
load
> leveler bars or sway bar. Sometimes I think it feels heavy and other
> times it does not even seem like I am towing anything. Flat is better.
I
> will try a hitch load leveler soon to see if it makes a difference.
> Gary Campbell
> 62' Safari
> Portland, Maine
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 16:14:53 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tundra
Matt:
You're absolutely correct about practicing. I taught entomology in
the College of Ag here for over 20 yrs and could even back up a big
scraper hitched to a tracked cat so I know I can do - but that little
short trailer seems to have a mind of its own. I appreciate the
encouragement and infl.
Jo Ann
On Oct 2004, at 1:22 PM, MJ Worner wrote:
> Joann,
>
> Trick to backing up is put your hand on the BOTTOM of the steering
> wheel. Push the bottom of the wheel in the direction you want the
> trailer to go. Watch the trailer in your side view mirrors (electric
> ones are nice, you can move them around to scope out the terrain) If
> you see more of the trailer appearing in one mirror or the other, that
> is the way the trailer is moving with respect to the prime mover. If
> that's not what you want to happen, "push" the trailer back with the
> bottom of the steering wheel. It's best if you can start out with the
> trailer and mover in line with each other, but that's not always
> possible.
>
> If you can get to a nice big parking lot (school or shopping center)
> on a "closed" day, practice backing along the parking space lines. An
> hour of practice and you will have a lifetime skill.
>
> Go for it!
> Matt
>
> Joann Wheatley wrote:
>
>> <snip>
>
>
>> Backing up is still a mystery.
>> Jo Ann
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 16:19:41 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tundra
Thank you Jim: That's encouraging information for me. I agree about the
quality of the truck also. Mine is a 2000 and I expect that they have
just gotten better. It was hard to wait for the big Toy to finally hit
the market and I got mine just about as soon as possible, trading in a
V6 '95 Toy truck - the model just prior to the "Toyota Tacoma"
introduction. I loved that truck but the Tundra actually gets better
milage and is much more comfortable to my tall spouse. I'm only 5'2" so
the older model fit me better but boy they are great vehicles.
Jo Ann
On Oct 2004, at 2:31 PM, jcchome wrote:
> JoAnn,
>
> I tow with a Tundra, and have towed the Tradewind over ten thousand
> foot
> passes in Colorado without problem. On the flat I catch myself
> drifting
> up to 72+ and drop back to 70. I use load leveler bars, but don't have
> any experience without the bars -- don't plan to get any either. There
> is an extra cooling coil in front of the radiator. I tow with
> overdrive
> off when on a hill (up).
>
> It the best vehicle I have owned.
>
> Best Regards,
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 22:04:27 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trailer backing
When trying to back straight, I watch the radio antenna on the front of the
Caravel. Its closer to being in line with the back of the truck and so is a more
sensitive indicator of turning than the outer surfaces.
But backing straight is only a small part of backing needs. Backing around
corners into camp ground back in slots is a required skill. I usually do that mostly
at night. A trick I use there is an industrial flashlight with a magnet on its side. I
put that on the back bumper of the Caravel pointed straight back and its
beam gives me a more sensitive hint of trailer direction than I can see at the
front of the Caravel. It also serves as a backup light. I put it on the left end of
the rear bumper.
When backing around corners, its important to not jackknife the assembly.
When turning its always important to not let the trailer get turned so that the
truck can't straighten it out. So you steer the truck opposite the direction you
want the trailer to go to start the turn, but once the trailer is bent in the right
direction you have to turn the truck in the same direction to follow the trailer's
turn. When the truck steering is at lock and the trailer bend is getting tighter its
time to STOP, then pull forward to straighten things up before backing some
more.
All these things take practice, and care to not show off when the skill is nearly
gained. I tried showing off with my flat bed trailer last winter, ended up in a snow
bank because the driveway I was backing down was too icy to turn the truck
(or stop) when needed to keep the trailer out of the snow bank.
It is possible to back through a 90 degree turn and then back straight into a
driveway. It is even possible to back into a parallel parking situation. Its far
quicker to find a pull through camp spot. I find backing turns to the left are far
easier than to the right.
I learned a lot of the geometry of trailer backing eons ago by building a tinker
toy truck and trailer with steerable front wheels. A modern toy tractor with
steerable front wheels could serve as well.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 22:09:59 -0600
From: "J. Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater Fan
Hello, Tom, you might try ducktec.com for Suburban furnace parts.
http://ducktec.com/
Let me know how it turns out--I have never done business with them, but
from their website they look promising. Good luck!
John
Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Anyone know where I can get a Suburban, model NT-22, Wheel,
>Blower, Small part # 350036?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 23:29:15 -0500
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trailer backing
I used to do all the below with real tractor-trailer rigs that were as long
as 55 - 60 feet in length. It is much easier to back a long trailer behind
a short tow vehicle than vice versa. The longer the trailer, the easier it
is to back up. Backing up with a short wheelbase Airstream is like trying
to back up a riding lawn tractor with a small garden trailer behind you.
But, that's a great way to practice backing short wheelbase units -- I
highly recommend it as you really can't hurt anything but it will give you a
very good idea how F-A-S-T things can get out of hand if you don't watch
what's going on behind you every inch of the way. It is very, very easy to
jackknife your rig when you have a short wheelbase trailer.
I remember having to drive on the shoulder of a road just past where I
needed to put my trailer 90 degrees to the loading dock WITH the tractor
"bent" at another 90 degrees so I didn't stick out in the traffic. Try
doing that on a busy highway at rush hour sometime and you will agree that
backing an Airstream of any wheelbase is EASY even at night.
For lighting you may want to consider putting brighter backup lights on your
trailer or installing bright backup lights if you don't have any. There are
many bright tractor worklights that will mount on the top corners of your
trailer bumper if you don't already have recessed backup lights on the
trailer. I highly recommend buying the halogen bulb backup lights although
they are expensive at around $20.00 for 2 bulbs but that is a lot less
expensive than a trip to the factory to fix the damage that happened when
you got too tired or it was too dark and you really should NOT have done
what you did. Hindsight is always 20/20 or even 20/10 at times! ;)
If you can have someone help you backing up that is even better. We use a
set of the Motorola 5-mile range family channel walkie-talkies or
"walkabouts" for this purpose as well. And, when one has to hit the
restroom on the highway it's a great way to keep in touch for safety's sake
or for any other emergency as well.
One thing I bought a long time ago was a BIG magnetic light that has a BIG
magnet on the base which allows me to attach it to the rear trailer bumper
for times like these. You will also need to install a 12-vdc lighter plug
or some other way to get power to it.
A couple of weeks ago I was at a Pep Boys store in NY and picked up a
Coleman battery powered portable light that is rechargeable with either AC
or DC power, including a 12-vdc lighter plug adapter. This light has a
sealed lead/acid battery and 2,000.000 candle-power bulb which really lights
up the night. Cost? A mere $10.00! What a deal that was and they should
still be around if you check out your local Pep Boys store. I've seen them
at other auto parts stores for as much as $25.00.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Trailer backing
> When trying to back straight, I watch the radio antenna on the front of
> the
> Caravel. Its closer to being in line with the back of the truck and so is
> a more
> sensitive indicator of turning than the outer surfaces.
>
> But backing straight is only a small part of backing needs. Backing around
> corners into camp ground back in slots is a required skill. I usually do
> that mostly
> at night. A trick I use there is an industrial flashlight with a magnet on
> its side. I
> put that on the back bumper of the Caravel pointed straight back and its
> beam gives me a more sensitive hint of trailer direction than I can see at
> the
> front of the Caravel. It also serves as a backup light. I put it on the
> left end of
> the rear bumper.
>
> When backing around corners, its important to not jackknife the assembly.
> When turning its always important to not let the trailer get turned so
> that the
> truck can't straighten it out. So you steer the truck opposite the
> direction you
> want the trailer to go to start the turn, but once the trailer is bent in
> the right
> direction you have to turn the truck in the same direction to follow the
> trailer's
> turn. When the truck steering is at lock and the trailer bend is getting
> tighter its
> time to STOP, then pull forward to straighten things up before backing
> some
> more.
>
> All these things take practice, and care to not show off when the skill is
> nearly
> gained. I tried showing off with my flat bed trailer last winter, ended up
> in a snow
> bank because the driveway I was backing down was too icy to turn the truck
> (or stop) when needed to keep the trailer out of the snow bank.
>
> It is possible to back through a 90 degree turn and then back straight
> into a
> driveway. It is even possible to back into a parallel parking situation.
> Its far
> quicker to find a pull through camp spot. I find backing turns to the left
> are far
> easier than to the right.
>
> I learned a lot of the geometry of trailer backing eons ago by building a
> tinker
> toy truck and trailer with steerable front wheels. A modern toy tractor
> with
> steerable front wheels could serve as well.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #53
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