The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #29
VAL Digest Thursday, October 7 2004 Volume 02 : Number 029
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #28
[VAL] perplexing electrics
[VAL] front door and screen available - '67 ambassador
Re: [VAL] perplexing electrics
Re: [VAL] perplexing electrics
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #28
[VAL] Camping near NYC
[VAL] Adding an extra light
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 23:18:55 -0700
From: "Debbie Rogers" <drogers@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.ca.us>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #28
I will be out of the office for the week of October 4th through the 8th.
I will not have access to email until October 11th. Please contact me via
cell phone (707) 489-9986 or Sharon Malarich at (707) 467-5170 in the
event of an emergency.
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 07:45:47 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] perplexing electrics
I have a question for someone with more electrical savvy than I. I
replaced the Univolt in our 1979 31' Int'l Sov. with a Intelli-Charger
with charge wizard last month. It's a DP9160A, 60 amp (size recommended
by the folks in Jackson Center). Since I installed it I'm having some
peculiarities happening.
Without apparent rhyme or reason the 15 amp GFI breaker in the 120V
panel trips. It seems to be behaving as though the circuit is
overloaded. The charge wizard acts strangely as well. After I reset the
GFI, it seems to go to "boost" mode, cycling on and off every 30
seconds or so. The lights grow brighter and dimmer with the cycle of
the charger. when I get the wizard to go to "normal" mode, this
behavior goes away. Also, the "AC POWER" light on the control panel
does not illuminate. I'm not sure these issues are related.
I've tested the battery- it's fine. I'd replace the GFI breaker but it
costs $100, so I don't want to if I don't have to. I could put in a
non-GFI protected breaker, but that doesn't seem wise. Although it does
seem odd that the charger would be on the same circuit as the bath and
kitchen (which I would think would be the locations on a GFI circuit..)
I'm stumped! No trouble before I replaced the Univolt. Any ideas?
As usual- thanks in advance for the advice,
Chris K.
#8638
1979 @31' sovereign int'l
Currently near Aylmer, Ontario
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 11:54:50 -0400
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] front door and screen available - '67 ambassador
I have a complete front door and screen assembly available. It has the
original bargman lockset (no key) and deadbolt. The deadbolt works from the
outside but not the inside. The door is in decent shape, no gouges or dings
but some of the outer corners are slightly bent. More description and
photos available if requested. Please contact me off list if you are
interested. I am in the Tampa area.
Pete
pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 09:58:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] perplexing electrics
There are two ways to trip a GFCI breaker. Either by current overload or by
returning neutral current through the ground wire. You can't connect the
neutral to the chassis or the DC ground and keep from tripping the GFCI
breaker.
I'd think the primary (120 volts AC) current for the charger should be under 14
amps, though having several items on the circuit could draw enough current
total to trip the current limit part of the GFCI.
There can be 5 wire on the charger. Primary should be hot, neutral, and
ground, generally black, white, and bare or green. The 12 volt DC side needs
only two, probably black and red. Black to chassis which is battery negative,
red to battery positive. Electrically it will function with the AC side neutral and
ground interchanged, but that will trip the Ground Fault section of the GFCI.
I know GFCI breakers are expensive, but that $100 includes a visit by an
electrician?
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:13:09 -0400
From: William Jacobs <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] perplexing electrics
Chris,
Why don't you plug the Inteli Charger into an extension cord that is not
connected to the trailer. This will completely eliminate the rest of
the circuitry from the problem and see if It still acts in the "boost"
mode. this will eliminate the GFI and you will know where the problem is.
bill
25 ft Trade Wind in WV
Chris Koehn wrote:
> I have a question for someone with more electrical savvy than I. I
> replaced the Univolt in our 1979 31' Int'l Sov. with a Intelli-Charger
> with charge wizard last month. It's a DP9160A, 60 amp (size
> recommended by the folks in Jackson Center). Since I installed it I'm
> having some peculiarities happening.
> Without apparent rhyme or reason the 15 amp GFI breaker in the 120V
> panel trips. It seems to be behaving as though the circuit is
> overloaded. The charge wizard acts strangely as well. After I reset
> the GFI, it seems to go to "boost" mode, cycling on and off every 30
> seconds or so. The lights grow brighter and dimmer with the cycle of
> the charger. when I get the wizard to go to "normal" mode, this
> behavior goes away. Also, the "AC POWER" light on the control panel
> does not illuminate. I'm not sure these issues are related.
> I've tested the battery- it's fine. I'd replace the GFI breaker but it
> costs $100, so I don't want to if I don't have to. I could put in a
> non-GFI protected breaker, but that doesn't seem wise. Although it
> does seem odd that the charger would be on the same circuit as the
> bath and kitchen (which I would think would be the locations on a GFI
> circuit..)
>
> I'm stumped! No trouble before I replaced the Univolt. Any ideas?
> As usual- thanks in advance for the advice,
>
> Chris K.
> #8638
> 1979 @31' sovereign int'l
> Currently near Aylmer, Ontario
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 21:00:28 -0400
From: "Ed Farrell" <twin_wasp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #28
- --- - -----Original Message-----
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2004 12:57 AM
To: AirstreamList; VAC list
Subject: [VAL] Campgrounds near NYC?
Hello
Anyone know of a good campground near New York City?
Thinking of going there next summer and are trying to plan ahead. See Statue
of Liberty Central Park, typical tourist stuff I guess.
Gillguy:
I do not have a particular campground in mind, but this is what I would do.
Consider camping North of NYC like around Poughkeepsie but near Amtrack or
a commuter line - take the train into town and spend the day. You save on
parking - which should offset the cost of the train. You also avoid the
aggravation of driving in the city, and you have a nice park to retire to.
If you drive into the city (and I do not advise this unless you are used to
NYC)- try starting out by visiting the aircraft carrier Intrepid museum. I
am told you can park there all day for a reasonable sum in a secure lot
(check this out things change a lot with homeland security concerns). Then
use the subway to get around. NYC is a great city and in the last ten years
or so has become one of the safest cities in the country.
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 22:15:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bill.Costa@xxxxxxxxxx.unh.edu
Subject: [VAL] Camping near NYC
> Consider camping North of NYC like around Poughkeepsie but near
> Amtrack or a commuter line - take the train into town and spend the
> day.
I want to second this suggestion! We've done this three times
now and it works out really well. (Sorry -- no recommendations
on Poughkeepsie campgrounds, though, each time we've stayed in a
small motel for about $50 a night.)
The commuter train is called the Metro-North Railroad:
http://www.mta.info/mnr
Rates are reasonable particularly if you travel off peak, and
the on-street parking is convenient near the Poughkeepsie train
station.
http://as0.mta.info/mnr/stations/station_detail.cfm?key=58
For us the draw is that we love trains and the train ride down
the Hudson is one of the prettiest we've ever been on.
(Although you'll also will be seeing the not-so-pretty backsides
of some old factories and warehouses too.) We picked
Poughkeepsie because it is the first stop heading south on the
Metro-North (and thus makes for the longest train ride and your
choice of seats). The Poughkeepsie station is an interesting
old station and arriving at Grand Central Station is also fun as
well. And you can easily pick up the subway from there.
If you like trains at all I highly recommend it.
...BC
- --
+---------------------[ Bill.Costa@xxxxxxxxxx.UNH.edu ]---+
| Bill Costa |
| 54 College Road -- CIS CTR WORK: +1-603-862-3056 | No good deed...
| University of New Hampshire HOME: +1-603-435-8526 | goes unpunished.
| Durham, NH 03824-3566 USA |
| |
+-----------------[ http://pubpages.unh.edu/~wfc/ ]---+
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:43:22 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Adding an extra light
All,
Some 1969 Airstreams have a unique design to the inside overhead, namely
two raceways (troughs) that run from one end cap to the other 18" apart on
either side of the vent and light.
I happen to have several original, rectangular, 4-bulb fixtures and
wanted to have overhead illumination back there, so I took advantage of the
curbside one tonight to complete the wiring for it.
These raceways are about 2" wide and protrude 3/4" below the inner skin.
Actually, they're a part the self-same sheet of vinyl clad aluminum that
comprises the inner skin, they're just bent into shape.
What got me thinking all this through is that I'm preparing for the
addition of a factory stock overhead fan in the one front vent. Gerald's
excellent suggestion to just drill out the inner, curbside rivets around the
vent allowed me to pull the inner skin down a bit to grab a factory provided
12"-15" loop of a pair of 12 v wires from within the insulation. Splicing
into this was obviously how power was gotten for the fan and that got me
thinking about adding the second light aft.
Well , the wire is pulled, wire nuts in place and taped. Power is not
restored forward and provision for the fan and aft light done.
I tied a messenger line to an electricians snake and fed it aft down the
raceway. Marilyn fished a wire hook through a 2" hole I drilled into the
overhead where I want the light to go and snagged the messenger line on the
first try, UNBELIEVEABLE! I then tied two #12 wires to the line and pulled
them through.
The sun has now gone down so tomorrow I'll wire and attach the fixture
in place feed the fan wires through the grommet and the job will be done
except for riveting the inner skin back in place. When it's all done, it'll
look just like a factory installation.
So to those of you with similar overhead raceways who want to add a
light aft (maybe Caravel owners only?), that's how I did mine.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
.
> From: Neal Warren <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 09:13:24 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Winterizing
>
> Here are the winterizing instructions that we just printed in the Top of
> Georgia newsletter. Hope this is helpful. Neal
>
> Winterizing your Airstream
> 1. Drain and flush fresh, gray, black and hot water tanks.
> 2. Drain water lines.
> If you have low-point drain lines under your Airstream: ( See Owner9s
> manual)
> - Open the hot and cold water faucets in your Airsteam.
> - Uncap (or open the valves for) the low point drain lines; Let water
> drain completely.
> - Recap (or close the valves for) low-point drain lines.
> - Close the hot and cold water faucets in your Airstream.
> 3. Blow out the water lines
> (note: If you have the low-point drain lines, this may not be
> necessary.)
> - Screw in the compressed air adapter into the main fresh water inlet.
> (available at Walmart, Camping World and most R. V. Dealers)
> - Apply compressed air, Keep the pressure at 40 PSI or less, Not Over 60
> PSI!
> - Open each faucet, one at a time, to force the water out of the lines,
> Don9t forget the Commode flush, hand sprayer, shower faucets (lay the hose
> down to drain), ice maker , washing machine and dish washer.
> - Drain the water filter canisters ( if installed on your Airsteam)
> - Open the hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank.
> - Remove air compressor and compressed air adapter.
> - Replace the drain plug in the hot water tank and close all faucets.
> - Before going to step 4, make sure that you have removed all water
> filter canisters.
> - Turn off the water valves to the filters or mopping and beating will
> begin!!
> 4. Put antifreeze in the water lines.
> (If you are confident you have successfully blown out all the water from
> your system, at this point you would add antifreeze to all the traps and
> stool. One cup in each is usually enough. Winterizing would be complete at
> this point. This is your call! If not proceed with the following steps:)
> a. Use RV Non-toxic Antifreeze only!!!
> b. Approximately 1-2 gallons should be plenty
> c. Make sure the water pump is off and all faucets are closed.
> d. Close the water bypass valve to your hot water tank. NOTE: If you
> don9t have a water bypass valve for your hot tank, seriously consider having
> one installed. Otherwise in addition to the water lines you will end
> filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. It9s not harmful, but you9ll use
> additional six gallons of antifreeze.
> e. Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh tank. Or If
> your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh tank and
> open the valve for the winterizing inlet line.
> f. Place the water inlet line into the RV antifreeze container.
> g. Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into
> the water lines.
> h. Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until red
> antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing shut off the faucet. NOTE: If for
> some reason you can9t drain the water lines using the low-point water lines
> and you can9t blow out the line with compressed air, you will have to wait
> until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in the lines before closing
> the valve. A rule of thumb, don9t shut the valve until the antifreeze starts
> coming out.
> i. Remember to also do this for the toilet, hand sprayer, and the shower.
> j. Shut off the water pump.
> k. Remove the water line from the antifreeze then either:Reattach the
> water line to the fresh tank or close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen
> the fresh water valve.
> l. Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the
> sink and shower traps have antifreeze in them.
> m. Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. NOTE: Don9t
> flush it into the holding tank.
> n You are done.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #29
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