The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #237
VAL Digest Wednesday, May 4 2005 Volume 02 : Number 237
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Topics in Today's Digest:
RE: [VAL] Round ceiling lights
[VAL] AirConditioner install
[VAL] Leak in Antenna
Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
Re: [VAL] Leak in Antenna
[VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] tire pump
Re: [VAL] Leak in Antenna
Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
[VAL] Dump valve removal
Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
[VAL] Mystic Springs Vintage Rally report
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 23:22:20 -0600
From: "Forrest McClure" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Round ceiling lights
Someone on the list was just recently looking for round 4 bulb ceiling light
fixtures for a 1970 I believe. There are some for sale on e-Bay right now
at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=454726789
4&category=50070
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 08:13:33 -0400
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] AirConditioner install
I may have to replace my AC unit on my 29' 1974 Ambassador.
What is the opening? (14x14?)
What would you suggest in size/name brand/BTUs?
Thanks!
Brian B
NC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 08:15:35 -0400
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Leak in Antenna
I have a rain leak from my Antenna crank handle. Is it a seal I need to
replace? or is it normally a reseal on top that needs to be performed?
Thanks!
Brian B
NC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 08:11:17 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> I may have to replace my AC unit on my 29' 1974 Ambassador.
>
> What is the opening? (14x14?)
> What would you suggest in size/name brand/BTUs?
>
> Thanks!
> Brian B
> NC
I just replaced the A/C on my 1976. The opening is 14" x 14". I installed
the Carrier 15,000 btu unit.
Don
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 04:35:58 -0400
From: William Jacobs <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
Don,
Did you install a heat pump?
How do you like it.
bill
Don Hardman wrote:
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brian Brown" <BBrown3996@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
>
>
>
>>I may have to replace my AC unit on my 29' 1974 Ambassador.
>>
>>What is the opening? (14x14?)
>>What would you suggest in size/name brand/BTUs?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Brian B
>>NC
>>
>>
>
>I just replaced the A/C on my 1976. The opening is 14" x 14". I installed
>the Carrier 15,000 btu unit.
>
>Don
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 09:18:13 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AirConditioner install
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Jacobs" <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Don,
> Did you install a heat pump?
> How do you like it.
No just an A/C. Its the Air V model 15,000 BTU's. It works great. I was also
able to attach a fitting to the pan in the A/C and then connect it to the
existing drain line in the Airstream. Similar to the set-up that is referred
to for the Carrier unit from Inland RV.
Word of caution, if you are installing on Vintage A/S with the curved
ceiling you will need to create a means to attached the flat inside cover to
the curved ceiling. Otherwise you will have gaps around the edge.
Don
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 10:25:23 EDT
From: Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Leak in Antenna
Brian B.
I would go to the top and take all of the old sealant off and replace
it with Vulkem 636. If you haven't as yet, check the vents to be sure they are
not in need of the same treatment.
You can get Vulkem sealant from INLANDR.COM or Airstreamdreams.com.
Martin and Rachel Hughey
WBCCI 10212, Vintage A/S
1969 International and 1961 Bambi
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 10:38:15 EDT
From: Sweetbeee@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Hi list,
I'm looking for a source for my bathroom vanity light fixture or for a way to
repair it. It has a curved front plastic that was solid at one time but has
now broken in two pieces and no longer functions.
For the lights above the bed the plastic pieces were flat and I cut them and
was able to fabricate them okay.
Has anyone found a good way to cut lexan plastic? I've used my jig saw,
scroll saw, and table saw and none are really good, any suggestions, or are my
blades too large, it has rough edges and sometimes cracks.
Any help would be appreciated.
Bebe Gordon
62 Tradewind
Lafayette LA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 10:44:09 -0500
From: dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
You may try cutting the plastic with it clamped between 2 thin sheets
of plywood.
Thank you
73 Dean L.
On May 3, 2005, at 9:38 AM, Sweetbeee@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a good way to cut lexan plastic? I've used my jig
> saw,
> scroll saw, and table saw and none are really good, any suggestions,
> or are my
> blades too large, it has rough edges and sometimes cracks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 09:23:35 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire pump
On Mon, 2005-05-02 at 23:34 -0400, Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I carry a 12 volt air pump and have used it on numerous occasions to inflate
> my trailer tires and the tow vehicles tires.
> Seems a simple solution for those times when a air hose is not handy.
>
> Martin and Rachel Hughey
> WBCCI 10212, Vintage A/S
> 1969 International and 1961 Bambi
A 12 volt pump can be handy when not traveling in heavily populated
areas. I wished I'd had one last Christmas day when I found a truck tire
flat 20 miles from town and the spare just as flat... It took some
finagling to get a mobile pump to the truck, and finding the cause of
the flat was even harder. But with my dad's funeral home visitation the
next day (Sunday) and the funeral on Monday, having that pump would sure
have saved a lot of hassle.
- --
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 09:33:32 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Leak in Antenna
On Tue, 2005-05-03 at 10:25 -0400, Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Brian B.
>
> I would go to the top and take all of the old sealant off and replace
> it with Vulkem 636. If you haven't as yet, check the vents to be sure they are
> not in need of the same treatment.
>
> You can get Vulkem sealant from INLANDR.COM or Airstreamdreams.com.
>
>
> Martin and Rachel Hughey
> WBCCI 10212, Vintage A/S
> 1969 International and 1961 Bambi
>
Based on the components listed in the MSDS, Vulkem 116 has the same
mixture as Vulkem 636 and Vulkem 116 is available at home centers like
Menard's, Home Depot, and Lowe's. Generally $3.97 a tube. Not all keep
all colors, but concrete gray is nearly as good a match to aluminum as
aluminum.
- --
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 09:37:56 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
On Tue, 2005-05-03 at 10:38 -0400, Sweetbeee@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hi list,
> <SNIP>
> Has anyone found a good way to cut lexan plastic? I've used my jig saw,
> scroll saw, and table saw and none are really good, any suggestions, or are my
> blades too large, it has rough edges and sometimes cracks.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Bebe Gordon
> 62 Tradewind
> Lafayette LA
Fine tooth blades with minimal set work better for getting a smooth edge
on all plastics. Slower blade speeds can help keep the saw from melting
the plastic. Then the cut edge should clean up with a sanding disk or
metal cutting grinding wheel. Then it can be polished with a laminated
cotton wheel loaded with white or red rouge. Watch out for melting at
all stages in the cutting and cleaning process.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 16:03:24 +0000
From: Mitch Hill <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
At 10:38 5/3/05 -0400, Sweetbeee@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>Has anyone found a good way to cut lexan plastic? I've used my jig saw,
>scroll saw, and table saw and none are really good, any suggestions, or
>are my
>blades too large, it has rough edges and sometimes cracks.
Use a fine toothed blade, a plywood blade or metal cutting type blade
and use masking tape both sides of where you want to cut helps.
Just go slow and easy and don't let the friction heat build up.
Pushing too fast causes chipping and rough edges and leave a little
bit extra to smooth with a file or sand paper afterwards.
A table saw is usually the poorest choice, I prefer a good jig/sabre saw
with a metal cutting blade or a band saw with a metal cutting blade
or, if the material is thin enough, score it both sides with a utility
knife and snap it and use a file or sand paper to clean up the edge.
- --
Mitch Hill - K1FH
WBCCI 21960
'64 AS Ambassador International
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 09:27:53 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Dump valve removal
All,
It's a sunny and warm day here in SoCal and it's a good thing for that
because I've spent the last while this morning on my back under the Caravel.
I need to remove the holding tank so as to access a much needed fresh
water plumbing leak. The toilet is off, the flange under it is off but I
now need to remove the Thetford E-Z-Slide dump valve in order to slip the
holding tank sideways and out the back access door.
Here's the problem. From what I can see on the underside of the holding
tank, it appears for all the world that there are four incredibly rusted
mounting screws holding the valve to the underside of the tank. This defies
logic though as am almost certain that those screws don't go directly into
the polyethylene tank bottom. That said, the one screw I've tried to loosen
so far seems to just spin in place without backing out. What's the secret
to how these valves are attached and how is one to best remove them from the
tank?
On another note, all the ABS from other areas of the trailer and to the
valve body below the slider is hard plumbed in place with no room for
cutting it and reinstalling with a no-hub coupling. Is it standard shop
practice to sacrifice all that plumbing by cutting it out with a hacksaw,
only to replace it all with new parts?
If I don't cut it out and somehow get the valve separated from the
bottom of the tank, I can simply reattach the valve when putting the head
system back together after the fresh water copper repair.
Thoughts and helpful hints anyone? So help me Gerald, if you tell me
that it's all explained in the McMaster-Carr Catalog......... ; - )
Thanks once again for your anticipated help,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 12:53:03 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
On my 63 Globetrotter, the black tank was fiberglass and had a flange
molded into the fiberglass that the slide valve attached to. see:
http://www.nwflorida.net/apr7.jpg
The screws/bolts( I forget which) were also rusted. I was able to get
the tank and valve out as one piece and then able to used pb Blaster and
a torch to get the fasterners out. I was able to easily remove the
tank/valve since all the wood above and below was gone. I guess thats
one advantage of having a rotten floor.
The two sink/tub drain lines that meet in the coupler below the valve
had been cut and then a rubber raditor hose had been used to slip over
the joint . Two raditor clamps on each hose then were clamped down to
seal the radiator hose to the pipes. You can see ( if you look closely)
the two pipes with the rubber sleeves in this pic
http://www.nwflorida.net/apr5.jpg
Glyn Judson wrote:
> All,
>
> It's a sunny and warm day here in SoCal and it's a good thing for that
>because I've spent the last while this morning on my back under the Caravel.
>
> I need to remove the holding tank so as to access a much needed fresh
>water plumbing leak. The toilet is off, the flange under it is off but I
>now need to remove the Thetford E-Z-Slide dump valve in order to slip the
>holding tank sideways and out the back access door.
>
> Here's the problem. From what I can see on the underside of the holding
>tank, it appears for all the world that there are four incredibly rusted
>mounting screws holding the valve to the underside of the tank. This defies
>logic though as am almost certain that those screws don't go directly into
>the polyethylene tank bottom. That said, the one screw I've tried to loosen
>so far seems to just spin in place without backing out. What's the secret
>to how these valves are attached and how is one to best remove them from the
>tank?
>
> On another note, all the ABS from other areas of the trailer and to the
>valve body below the slider is hard plumbed in place with no room for
>cutting it and reinstalling with a no-hub coupling. Is it standard shop
>practice to sacrifice all that plumbing by cutting it out with a hacksaw,
>only to replace it all with new parts?
>
> If I don't cut it out and somehow get the valve separated from the
>bottom of the tank, I can simply reattach the valve when putting the head
>system back together after the fresh water copper repair.
>
> Thoughts and helpful hints anyone? So help me Gerald, if you tell me
>that it's all explained in the McMaster-Carr Catalog......... ; - )
>
> Thanks once again for your anticipated help,
>
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel #508
> Santa Monica CA
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 11:09:12 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Herb,
With the thought in mind of leaving the plumbing intact, is it possible
to remove the four rusted screws by some means and then just pull the valve
assembly straight down from the flange on my tank? I guess what I'm asking
is whether or not the valve is pressed into the flange and sealed with an
O-ring or if it threads into the flange. Of course, all this assumes that
there is a flange on mine similar to the one on your glass tank.
Thank you for including the image of the bottom of your tank. It gives
me an idea as to how mine might be put together. My dump valve appears to
be the same as yours by the way.
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 12:53:03 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
>
> On my 63 Globetrotter, the black tank was fiberglass and had a flange
> molded into the fiberglass that the slide valve attached to. see:
>
> http://www.nwflorida.net/apr7.jpg
>
> The screws/bolts( I forget which) were also rusted. I was able to get
> the tank and valve out as one piece and then able to used pb Blaster and
> a torch to get the fasterners out. I was able to easily remove the
> tank/valve since all the wood above and below was gone. I guess thats
> one advantage of having a rotten floor.
>
> The two sink/tub drain lines that meet in the coupler below the valve
> had been cut and then a rubber raditor hose had been used to slip over
> the joint . Two raditor clamps on each hose then were clamped down to
> seal the radiator hose to the pipes. You can see ( if you look closely)
> the two pipes with the rubber sleeves in this pic
>
> http://www.nwflorida.net/apr5.jpg
>
> Glyn Judson wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> It's a sunny and warm day here in SoCal and it's a good thing for that
>> because I've spent the last while this morning on my back under the Caravel.
>>
>> I need to remove the holding tank so as to access a much needed fresh
>> water plumbing leak. The toilet is off, the flange under it is off but I
>> now need to remove the Thetford E-Z-Slide dump valve in order to slip the
>> holding tank sideways and out the back access door.
>>
>> Here's the problem. From what I can see on the underside of the holding
>> tank, it appears for all the world that there are four incredibly rusted
>> mounting screws holding the valve to the underside of the tank. This defies
>> logic though as am almost certain that those screws don't go directly into
>> the polyethylene tank bottom. That said, the one screw I've tried to loosen
>> so far seems to just spin in place without backing out. What's the secret
>> to how these valves are attached and how is one to best remove them from the
>> tank?
>>
>> On another note, all the ABS from other areas of the trailer and to the
>> valve body below the slider is hard plumbed in place with no room for
>> cutting it and reinstalling with a no-hub coupling. Is it standard shop
>> practice to sacrifice all that plumbing by cutting it out with a hacksaw,
>> only to replace it all with new parts?
>>
>> If I don't cut it out and somehow get the valve separated from the
>> bottom of the tank, I can simply reattach the valve when putting the head
>> system back together after the fresh water copper repair.
>>
>> Thoughts and helpful hints anyone? So help me Gerald, if you tell me
>> that it's all explained in the McMaster-Carr Catalog......... ; - )
>>
>> Thanks once again for your anticipated help,
>>
>> Glyn Judson
>> 1969 Caravel #508
>> Santa Monica CA
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 14:18:35 -0400
From: <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
Hi BeBe -
I know exactly what you're talking about. The material is brittle and
cracks or breaks easily. A couple of solutions may be to use the
back side of a utility knife and scribe a pretty deep cut by going
over it a couple of times and breaking it over the edge of a cabinet
or workbench. If the scribe cut is deep enough, it will break along
the line. Another possibility is to use a cutting wheel on a Dremel.
I've tried both of these methods on thin plexiglas and it works quite
well.
I'd like to see pictures of your bathroom light because I've not seen
another like the one in my Trade Wind.
FF
>
> From: Sweetbeee@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: 2005/05/03 Tue AM 10:38:15 EDT
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Plastic on Bathroom vanity light - 62 Tradewind
>
> Hi list,
>
> I'm looking for a source for my bathroom vanity light fixture or for
a way to
> repair it. It has a curved front plastic that was solid at one time
but has
> now broken in two pieces and no longer functions.
>
> For the lights above the bed the plastic pieces were flat and I cut
them and
> was able to fabricate them okay.
>
> Has anyone found a good way to cut lexan plastic? I've used my
jig saw,
> scroll saw, and table saw and none are really good, any
suggestions, or are my
> blades too large, it has rough edges and sometimes cracks.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Bebe Gordon
> 62 Tradewind
> Lafayette LA
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with
Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary
original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 17:44:17 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
I think so. On mine the Thetford valve has a rubber seal that fits into
the groove you see on the tank flange. The valve doesn't screw into the
flange, just pushed in. The 4 screws hold the valve body to the flange.
See :
http://www.nwflorida.net/thetford
for a pix of a spare valve I have. It shows the top side and bottom of
the valve. The screws would go into the tank flange.
However if I remember correctly from when I worked on this several years
ago, there is a 4 way PVC connector that attaches below the this valve
on mine . The two side connectors go to the sinks/tub. The top goes to
the thetford valve. The bottom hole has another flange that the stinky
slinky attaches to. If all your drain pipes are connected like this the
pipes would be in the way of just pullling the thetford straight down.
Glyn Judson wrote:
> Herb,
>
> With the thought in mind of leaving the plumbing intact, is it possible
>to remove the four rusted screws by some means and then just pull the valve
>assembly straight down from the flange on my tank? I guess what I'm asking
>is whether or not the valve is pressed into the flange and sealed with an
>O-ring or if it threads into the flange. Of course, all this assumes that
>there is a flange on mine similar to the one on your glass tank.
>
> Thank you for including the image of the bottom of your tank. It gives
>me an idea as to how mine might be put together. My dump valve appears to
>be the same as yours by the way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
>
>
>>From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>>Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 12:53:03 -0500
>>To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>>Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
>>
>>On my 63 Globetrotter, the black tank was fiberglass and had a flange
>>molded into the fiberglass that the slide valve attached to. see:
>>
>>http://www.nwflorida.net/apr7.jpg
>>
>>The screws/bolts( I forget which) were also rusted. I was able to get
>>the tank and valve out as one piece and then able to used pb Blaster and
>>a torch to get the fasterners out. I was able to easily remove the
>>tank/valve since all the wood above and below was gone. I guess thats
>>one advantage of having a rotten floor.
>>
>>The two sink/tub drain lines that meet in the coupler below the valve
>>had been cut and then a rubber raditor hose had been used to slip over
>>the joint . Two raditor clamps on each hose then were clamped down to
>>seal the radiator hose to the pipes. You can see ( if you look closely)
>>the two pipes with the rubber sleeves in this pic
>>
>>http://www.nwflorida.net/apr5.jpg
>>
>>Glyn Judson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>All,
>>>
>>>It's a sunny and warm day here in SoCal and it's a good thing for that
>>>because I've spent the last while this morning on my back under the Caravel.
>>>
>>>I need to remove the holding tank so as to access a much needed fresh
>>>water plumbing leak. The toilet is off, the flange under it is off but I
>>>now need to remove the Thetford E-Z-Slide dump valve in order to slip the
>>>holding tank sideways and out the back access door.
>>>
>>>Here's the problem. From what I can see on the underside of the holding
>>>tank, it appears for all the world that there are four incredibly rusted
>>>mounting screws holding the valve to the underside of the tank. This defies
>>>logic though as am almost certain that those screws don't go directly into
>>>the polyethylene tank bottom. That said, the one screw I've tried to loosen
>>>so far seems to just spin in place without backing out. What's the secret
>>>to how these valves are attached and how is one to best remove them from the
>>>tank?
>>>
>>>On another note, all the ABS from other areas of the trailer and to the
>>>valve body below the slider is hard plumbed in place with no room for
>>>cutting it and reinstalling with a no-hub coupling. Is it standard shop
>>>practice to sacrifice all that plumbing by cutting it out with a hacksaw,
>>>only to replace it all with new parts?
>>>
>>>If I don't cut it out and somehow get the valve separated from the
>>>bottom of the tank, I can simply reattach the valve when putting the head
>>>system back together after the fresh water copper repair.
>>>
>>>Thoughts and helpful hints anyone? So help me Gerald, if you tell me
>>>that it's all explained in the McMaster-Carr Catalog......... ; - )
>>>
>>>Thanks once again for your anticipated help,
>>>
>>>Glyn Judson
>>>1969 Caravel #508
>>>Santa Monica CA
>>>
>>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>>>Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>>
>>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>>
>>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>>Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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>>
>>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 16:44:39 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
Herb and all,
Well the dump valve is out of the Caravel leaving the flange and the
tank vent fitting still attached to the tank. Wouldn't you know that the
clearance between the plywood the tank sits on and the underside of the
fiberglass riser the tank sits beneath, there isn't enough clearance for me
to lift the tank and flange sufficiently to get past the hole in the plywood
in order to slide the tank out.
I contacted Thetford today and they faxed me a bunch of drawings and
part numbers so at least I think I know what to order if anything ever
breaks. In addition, they show three different flanges for fitting the dump
valve. One is a thread on adapter, P/N 01959 Model T, one is a glass on
adapter, P/N 01662 Model G (Herb's I think) and the other is a bond on, P/N
01659 Model B.
From all I can tell mine is the bond on model and it needs to come off
in order to get the clearance I need to slide the tank out sideways and out
the back access door.
Can anyone offer any thoughts as to how I might go about removing that
two-part PVC flange that appears to be glued together from either side of
the hole in the polyethylene holding tank? M concern is that if I take a
hacksaw blade to the hole, I run the risk of inadvertently sawing right into
the tank. There is no chance for error in doing it this way and by hand, on
my back, reaching up into the 3" hole with a saw blade is just asking for a
disaster especially considering that several cuts would be necessary to get
the flange free.
I seem to be the only one asking for serious hand-holding almost every
step of the way on every project I tackle but it's mainly because I'm not
familiar with all these RV parts, what works and what doesn't when it comes
to R&R.
Thanks for any thoughts,
Glyn
> From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 17:44:17 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
>
> I think so. On mine the Thetford valve has a rubber seal that fits into
> the groove you see on the tank flange. The valve doesn't screw into the
> flange, just pushed in. The 4 screws hold the valve body to the flange.
> See :
>
> http://www.nwflorida.net/thetford
>
> for a pix of a spare valve I have. It shows the top side and bottom of
> the valve. The screws would go into the tank flange.
>
> However if I remember correctly from when I worked on this several years
> ago, there is a 4 way PVC connector that attaches below the this valve
> on mine . The two side connectors go to the sinks/tub. The top goes to
> the thetford valve. The bottom hole has another flange that the stinky
> slinky attaches to. If all your drain pipes are connected like this the
> pipes would be in the way of just pullling the thetford straight down.
>
> Glyn Judson wrote:
>
>> Herb,
>>
>> With the thought in mind of leaving the plumbing intact, is it possible
>> to remove the four rusted screws by some means and then just pull the valve
>> assembly straight down from the flange on my tank? I guess what I'm asking
>> is whether or not the valve is pressed into the flange and sealed with an
>> O-ring or if it threads into the flange. Of course, all this assumes that
>> there is a flange on mine similar to the one on your glass tank.
>>
>> Thank you for including the image of the bottom of your tank. It gives
>> me an idea as to how mine might be put together. My dump valve appears to
>> be the same as yours by the way.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Glyn
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>>> Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 12:53:03 -0500
>>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
>>>
>>> On my 63 Globetrotter, the black tank was fiberglass and had a flange
>>> molded into the fiberglass that the slide valve attached to. see:
>>>
>>> http://www.nwflorida.net/apr7.jpg
>>>
>>> The screws/bolts( I forget which) were also rusted. I was able to get
>>> the tank and valve out as one piece and then able to used pb Blaster and
>>> a torch to get the fasterners out. I was able to easily remove the
>>> tank/valve since all the wood above and below was gone. I guess thats
>>> one advantage of having a rotten floor.
>>>
>>> The two sink/tub drain lines that meet in the coupler below the valve
>>> had been cut and then a rubber raditor hose had been used to slip over
>>> the joint . Two raditor clamps on each hose then were clamped down to
>>> seal the radiator hose to the pipes. You can see ( if you look closely)
>>> the two pipes with the rubber sleeves in this pic
>>>
>>> http://www.nwflorida.net/apr5.jpg
>>>
>>> Glyn Judson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> All,
>>>>
>>>> It's a sunny and warm day here in SoCal and it's a good thing for that
>>>> because I've spent the last while this morning on my back under the
>>>> Caravel.
>>>>
>>>> I need to remove the holding tank so as to access a much needed fresh
>>>> water plumbing leak. The toilet is off, the flange under it is off but I
>>>> now need to remove the Thetford E-Z-Slide dump valve in order to slip the
>>>> holding tank sideways and out the back access door.
>>>>
>>>> Here's the problem. From what I can see on the underside of the holding
>>>> tank, it appears for all the world that there are four incredibly rusted
>>>> mounting screws holding the valve to the underside of the tank. This
>>>> defies
>>>> logic though as am almost certain that those screws don't go directly into
>>>> the polyethylene tank bottom. That said, the one screw I've tried to
>>>> loosen
>>>> so far seems to just spin in place without backing out. What's the secret
>>>> to how these valves are attached and how is one to best remove them from
>>>> the
>>>> tank?
>>>>
>>>> On another note, all the ABS from other areas of the trailer and to the
>>>> valve body below the slider is hard plumbed in place with no room for
>>>> cutting it and reinstalling with a no-hub coupling. Is it standard shop
>>>> practice to sacrifice all that plumbing by cutting it out with a hacksaw,
>>>> only to replace it all with new parts?
>>>>
>>>> If I don't cut it out and somehow get the valve separated from the
>>>> bottom of the tank, I can simply reattach the valve when putting the head
>>>> system back together after the fresh water copper repair.
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts and helpful hints anyone? So help me Gerald, if you tell me
>>>> that it's all explained in the McMaster-Carr Catalog......... ; - )
>>>>
>>>> Thanks once again for your anticipated help,
>>>>
>>>> Glyn Judson
>>>> 1969 Caravel #508
>>>> Santa Monica CA
>>>>
>>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with
>>>> Airstream
>>>> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>>>
>>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>>> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>>
>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
>> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>>
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 17:18:56 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve removal
>I seem to be the only one asking for serious hand-holding almost every
step of the way on every project I tackle...
And I thank for it, Glyn. I have a hunch lot of us are having a vicarious
learning experience every time you do so.
Mark in Modesto
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 19:56:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Mystic Springs Vintage Rally report
Thanks to Herb Spies - on the VAC Site now!
http://www.airstream.net/rallies.html
Toby Folwick
VAC Webmaster.
p.s. if you have photos and a story to tell about your
recently past, or forthcoming VAC rally, contact me
and let's get the report to the world!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #237
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